I used to read the old kartworld catalogs back in the day, this was the one cart I used to always want. Its so cool to see it getting a new lease on life. I'm pretty sure you used to be able to buy the body seperete from the go cart.
Just a thought but.. cut the steering frame/bar, make it into a V.... So the bottom of the v is towards the front. Then mount the steering wheel from the middle of the V. Some heavy stock should be strong enough. Use some rubber mounting on the top of the V for the body to rest on. That would open up the knee area. ..just a thought
Should make a U for the steering, cut the horizontal square tube out leave the vertical side posts with like an inch or so of horizontal tube to still support the body, brase the side posts with RBG gussets, gives you more knee room, keeping strength, making a spot for a switch panel between the legs👍🏼
It's not broken, just the way it works. I love and hate my angle die grinder from Milwaukee, too. Drop down to 2" discs first. It is written in manual, but I believe only once. The 3" ones cause shut off quicker. Light pressure only. You'll grab the air ones for a lot of work, but once ya get used to cordless, you'll use it a bit more. Hopefully gen 2 has some more power to it. Love this build! ✌️
Fabulous vid as always guys! With all the mods it might have been faster to clone the frame with the mods implemented on the clone. For more clearance you should have just created a channel down the middle 1 1/2 to 2 inches. once the body is on you will never see the drop in the floor pan. Really enjoy your vids guys!
Love yalls channel. I was wondering, instead of having the square tube across your knees. Could you put a hoop style tube between your legs to mount the steering column/wheel too? Seems like that may give you and the smaller dude more knee room. Just a thought.
Keep up the good vids love watching your I can remember a few years ago this young fella apologising for his welding but look at ya now you welding better then some men I know that have been welding 25 years keep it up young man
I smell a race soon. Cars and cameras are working on a little hot rod Shriners/ parade kart . I think they may be using left over parts from there drag rail. Just saying a drag race between the old Shriner karts would be awesome.
I had to do a double-take to make sure I wasn't seeing a Model T race car, in the thumbnail. Speaking of...Ever consider doing that? period-correct Model T racing is pretty cool! The less there is, the faster it goes...
I don't think that those skinny fronts will hold, for a line lock burnout with those slicks. Better hope the front starts sliding before you burn up the belt I guess. Awesome little build tho.
I would suggest replacing the 5/8 secondary shaft with a 5/8 - grade 8 bolt long enough to install an outboard bearing to counter the torque of the drive sprocket.
@@RedBeardsGarage I'm a faithful follower so I'll follow this to the end. If you bump up your 9+ hp engine to 14-15 hp IMO it may throw the chain with the outboard drive sprocket
I have a 33 ford high boy body I gotta build everything for it. My power plant is a XS650 cc motorcycle engine. could I get a list of the parts you used on the front end please?
I see a major No,No!!!! Never leave your chuck wrench in the chuck. Oh....and crank up the RPMs on the lathe a bit so it chips rather than making strings,and or increase your feed rate.
Hi this is kind of off topic but I had a question for you guys regarding upgrading 212s and such. If I remove the governor on a pred 212, would I need to upgrade the internals such as flywheel and valve springs? I recently swapped a 212 into an old ATV frame I had and I hooked it up with a CVT and was thinking of putting a Juggernaut CVT but feel it might be wasted on a governed engine.
@@56_mini55 yes I am aware of that which is why I wanted to remove the Governor in the first place but that’s almost 100 dollars just off of the Pulley if I did remove it in the first place, and I was just wondering if you needed to maybe upgrade the cam shaft or the valve springs. I know the stock flywheel might crack if you exceed the stock RPM so I’m gonna have to upgrade that. But again, I’ve heard some people say valve springs are a must and then others say it’s best to just put a new rod, piston, crankshaft and camshaft if you want to remove the Governor. I just want some power without having to over build the engine. I’ve kept it almost completely stock except for a performance air filter, custom exhaust and a Torque converter.
I highly doubt you are gonna light up those meats with 12HP and all the weight in the back. Its either gonna bog, cook the belt or push thru the brakes.
Why wouldn't you just leave the steering like it is . In a way it adds a lot of drivability to it and it's not like you can't turn a wheel like you're driving a car when you need to make an extra sharp turn
Just drop your Milwaukee in the mail to Milwaukee WI, or any authorized dealer. As long as the serial number date code is less than 5 years old you either get your tool back repaired or replaced for free!
That steering is sweet! Nice job guys!
Thank you sir!
@@RedBeardsGarage you should make the top bar I. To a v to give for more foot room and have a bar that comes out for the steering rod
I used to read the old kartworld catalogs back in the day, this was the one cart I used to always want. Its so cool to see it getting a new lease on life. I'm pretty sure you used to be able to buy the body seperete from the go cart.
No idea how you found a wife/girlfriend that likes to spend this much time in a garage, but God bless you man.
Just a thought but.. cut the steering frame/bar, make it into a V.... So the bottom of the v is towards the front. Then mount the steering wheel from the middle of the V. Some heavy stock should be strong enough. Use some rubber mounting on the top of the V for the body to rest on. That would open up the knee area. ..just a thought
Putting the gas tank up front with a radiator cap as the filler, above the grill would be killer!
Should make a U for the steering, cut the horizontal square tube out leave the vertical side posts with like an inch or so of horizontal tube to still support the body, brase the side posts with RBG gussets, gives you more knee room, keeping strength, making a spot for a switch panel between the legs👍🏼
I see a collaboration coming with cars and cameras 👀
Yeah I think we need to take a trip up there.
What you set up for steering and the brakes is huge leaps and bounds over what it was, I wouldn't have driven it before
sweet build, btw those "C" brackets you made on the steering is called a clevis fitting
.
It's not broken, just the way it works. I love and hate my angle die grinder from Milwaukee, too. Drop down to 2" discs first. It is written in manual, but I believe only once. The 3" ones cause shut off quicker. Light pressure only. You'll grab the air ones for a lot of work, but once ya get used to cordless, you'll use it a bit more. Hopefully gen 2 has some more power to it. Love this build! ✌️
I wish I lived near by you . Would to work in your shop or watch you work . Not sure where your home is located. Keep up the good work.
Fabulous vid as always guys! With all the mods it might have been faster to clone the frame with the mods implemented on the clone. For more clearance you should have just created a channel down the middle 1 1/2 to 2 inches. once the body is on you will never see the drop in the floor pan. Really enjoy your vids guys!
May not be the fastest ever but it sure is the coolest
Love following this build!
red beard you should make a buggy with a yamaha r1 engine
That's cool that's the old old frame .
Man you should just go all out and make a sweet suspension chassis for that sweet body. That would be killer
Love yalls channel. I was wondering, instead of having the square tube across your knees. Could you put a hoop style tube between your legs to mount the steering column/wheel too? Seems like that may give you and the smaller dude more knee room. Just a thought.
This is going to be an awesome kart!
You can make the series as long as you need to, I love it!
I think this needs crome old school leaf spring bumpers mustache style and hammered rivets
This series is awesome!! I can always count on amazing content on this channel
Should do a single leaf spring in the front.
Put a moon tank in the front of the cart !!!! Awesome build!!!!! I have a 40 Willy's coupe cart !!!!
I'm liking the upgrades
That's gonna be a cool little street rod.
Keep up the good vids love watching your I can remember a few years ago this young fella apologising for his welding but look at ya now you welding better then some men I know that have been welding 25 years keep it up young man
Coming along good, nice to see the updated look, but not revolutionary look.
This build kicks butt.
I smell a race soon. Cars and cameras are working on a little hot rod Shriners/ parade kart . I think they may be using left over parts from there drag rail. Just saying a drag race between the old Shriner karts would be awesome.
I want to see you guys dressed as Z Z top in the next episode. Like the whole video!
I am loving this build you're doing so cool
Nice lathe work.
This cart needs neon underlighting when you button up this build. :)
Like the steering
This so awesome, looking for pt 2 now
Why no suspension? That's gotta be a bumpy ride Big Guy!
its not an off road cart plus im sure he wants to keep it some what original looking
There is something special i'd like to see on the gokart and that is ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm Special!!! lol
Its one of my favorite short builds. Too bad I can't fit in it lol.
I had to do a double-take to make sure I wasn't seeing a Model T race car, in the thumbnail.
Speaking of...Ever consider doing that? period-correct Model T racing is pretty cool! The less there is, the faster it goes...
I have. We have a thousand projects we want to do lol.
Looking good she'll rip it up in notime!
Found a cheaper rack on Ebay, worked great on my vintage Manco cart.
That thing is Sweet.
Very cool.
Gonna be pretty dirty where the battery and master is going to be. Make a stab at wheel tubs?
Lookin sick
Excellent job 👏 ☮️
That is one kick but cart.
Super cool. Gonna be really nice!
You're going to have Shriners hitting you up to make their carts better.
Great work.
Thanks!
It needs small little front and rear bumpers like real roadster
T brackets FTW.😎
Nice Build!
It’s got to have a horn. C&C has one on their hot rod kart. Make it a unique one though. Road Runner meep meep horn?
We will have to do one for sure!
Maybe an old ooga horn. I think you can even get one at harbor freight.
Looking awesome 😎 pretty sweet
Put a 440 snowmobile engine in it
Looking great, can't wait, all the best to you and your loved ones
So Lonnie is against the "Necker Knob"? LOL Real knucklebuster if you got careless.
Cool build you can throw my name in the hat for the give away
I think you found a side mount single spinner blower. I could be wrong lol😎
It's turning out to be pretty cool cart but the brake n gas pedals seams like the should be turned the other way so your foot hits the pedal more
This thing is going to be sweet!
I had to make my own chain gears for the go fast I wanted because of the short tires
Super charger
I don't think that those skinny fronts will hold, for a line lock burnout with those slicks. Better hope the front starts sliding before you burn up the belt I guess. Awesome little build tho.
It's looking better and better. I cannot wait to see this thing roast those meats! By the way....I still say "trick." It's just old skool cool, man.
I would suggest replacing the 5/8 secondary shaft with a 5/8 - grade 8 bolt long enough to install an outboard bearing to counter the torque of the drive sprocket.
It would have to be keyed. I could add a secondary bearing but I don't think it will need it since it a street kart.
@@RedBeardsGarage I'm a faithful follower so I'll follow this to the end. If you bump up your 9+ hp engine to 14-15 hp IMO it may throw the chain with the outboard drive sprocket
Awesome content!
Thanks for watching!
👍👍👍👍
I want to see it lay some patches of rubber big ones
I have a 33 ford high boy body I gotta build everything for it. My power plant is a XS650 cc motorcycle engine. could I get a list of the parts you used on the front end please?
Definitely space for a legit nitrous bottle in there, not the whipped cream setup
Thing is sick 🦾🔥
Is that the cart from the movie the Toy with Richard Pryor the same cart not the one one but same kind ?
Not to get off subject but mr. Redbeard do you play Vikinggaurd on mobile?
I didn't see much attention to the front end geometry, specifically ackerman to keep the front wheels from scrubbing in turns. Did I miss something?
I see a major No,No!!!!
Never leave your chuck wrench in the chuck.
Oh....and crank up the RPMs on the lathe a bit so it chips rather than making strings,and or increase your feed rate.
Hi this is kind of off topic but I had a question for you guys regarding upgrading 212s and such. If I remove the governor on a pred 212, would I need to upgrade the internals such as flywheel and valve springs? I recently swapped a 212 into an old ATV frame I had and I hooked it up with a CVT and was thinking of putting a Juggernaut CVT but feel it might be wasted on a governed engine.
Juggernaut would be a waste without governor removal, those are generally for higher than stock rpm anyways, even ungoverned
@@56_mini55 yes I am aware of that which is why I wanted to remove the Governor in the first place but that’s almost 100 dollars just off of the Pulley if I did remove it in the first place, and I was just wondering if you needed to maybe upgrade the cam shaft or the valve springs. I know the stock flywheel might crack if you exceed the stock RPM so I’m gonna have to upgrade that. But again, I’ve heard some people say valve springs are a must and then others say it’s best to just put a new rod, piston, crankshaft and camshaft if you want to remove the Governor. I just want some power without having to over build the engine. I’ve kept it almost completely stock except for a performance air filter, custom exhaust and a Torque converter.
Drag race Cars and cameras
Pedals upside down???
I highly doubt you are gonna light up those meats with 12HP and all the weight in the back. Its either gonna bog, cook the belt or push thru the brakes.
I have one it will burn the tires 16 horse apposed twin and a six speed trans.
I agree it will be hard to not burn up a belt, but we still will try lol.
Yeah oh well give er the beans and let er rip!
Agreed , those skinnies on the front are no match for those rear meats.
Cars and cameras has a nice model t also
If me and my gain host a 212-420cc tractor race would you be willing to come join and ride up in PA. ?
Why wouldn't you just leave the steering like it is . In a way it adds a lot of drivability to it and it's not like you can't turn a wheel like you're driving a car when you need to make an extra sharp turn
Needs a hula girl on the dash
This thing look kinda trick
I want to see a 2- 3-cylinder snow mobile engine in it, or don't bother
Just drop your Milwaukee in the mail to Milwaukee WI, or any authorized dealer. As long as the serial number date code is less than 5 years old you either get your tool back repaired or replaced for free!
Brother, it's built TN average. Cause us fatboys need em beefy.
Over build everything because we are over built lol.
@@RedBeardsGarage always better than being underbuilt 😂
Where’s the follow up?
you gonna race cars and cameras with thier t bucket?