"Yes, Nord-Lock washers can be reused. We recommend that you visually check that the washer is not worn before replacing it. Note that you must orient the washers correctly when reusing, cam side to cam side." Directly from Nord-Lock Group. Yes, they are awesome. Try to loosen the nut with your hand after tightening it finger-tight.
My 2020 250 xc-w clutch with 140 hours I have never looked at yet. It has made a lot of noise from day one idling but has worked great. I change oil at 15 hours come out dirty but nothing like yours. My 17 te250 had over 200 hours was way quieter than 20 and same thing no problems. Ktm make really good clutches. My 2012 ktm 250 sx had originally clutch and I used it on a snowbike for 4 years. It did rattle a little when first taking off.
So on my 21 husky fx450 had a similar clutch. The holes are for how hard or soft the clutch is. From the factory they put it on the #2. I switched mine to the #3 and worked much better. Less flame out when I made that change.
So, the real purpose for the different holes is to get the set height on the diaphragm spring correct. If you look at the service manual it shows that you are supposed to get that spring flat on install. That puts the “appropriate” tension on it.
Those washers are called Nord-Locks and it is critical they go back together as they were. Very cool type of lock washer, but there is definitely a wrong way with them.
Mine exc-f 350 2024 model burnt the clutch at 25 hours from new. All the metal plates were blued, also the outer hub is now blue without any trace of wear. Damper rubber ware also toasted with small dents. But to my surprise when I disassembled the nut was not very tight, and the needle bearings had much play, which I doubt to be normal. So when I mount the outer hub I can hear clicking noise? What was the problem to your friends bike? Did you found? Cheers!
@highlandcycles HEY MORGAN..!!!! 🙂 You may know this but... KTM Does Have A Stronger OEM DDS Clutch spring. It will replace any #78132005000 DDS spring but it is Stiffer. The stiffer spring is #78932005000 and is OEM Stock on the newer 450SX-F/XC-F and 450/500 EXC-F bikes. The stiffer spring is 1.61MM thick versus 1.5MM thick for the Factory installed spring. It has the same ID and OD dimensions but is slightly thicker, thus stiffer! It is often referred to as the 280 spring. 🤒 THANKS For ALL YOU DO.!!!! 😜🤪😝😎
Yeah. I know but I really want to keep the lever feel like it is. I have since, changed my oil a few times and it’s getting cleaner. Wonder if it was something from break in or some other weird thing.
It does indicate that but the setting on that retainer is supposed to be used to get the diaphragm spring flat. It’s not supposed to be used to increase or decrease pressure. And the spring was flat
Not gonna lie I reuse the washer lock thingy a cpl times too my KTM clutch is pretty noisy too like a chattering sound works great but the sound drives me insane it's been apart cpl times but me and shops and we don't see any issue they claim it's just a noisy clutch
@@highlandcycles Very possible but nothing worse then a unfamiliar sound on a new machine makes u think shits gonna blow up are something if u ever figure out what it is making the noise keep me informed so I can check into mine
Hey bro I dig your show, but I disagree with your comments on engine lubrication. I run cheap trans/engine oil but Change it at sooner intervals. A factory mechanic told me that he didn't care what oil I ran as long as I dumped it after every ride/race. In order to benefit from the additives in synthetic blends you have to keep to a stringent maintenance plan. If you ride at the professional level you need synthetic if you are a lapper you can run 30 wt recycled from your car!
Not sure what I said about lubrication that you disagree with. I agree with what you said. I don't like to use crappy walmart oil but I don't think you need to use super high end oil either. As long as its clean its doing a good job. I don't think that way about 2 stroke oil but that is a bit different. In my opinion, the only good thing about fully synthetic motor oil is its resistance to breaking down at high temp/stress
They must of changed something in there. Mine is noticeable louder at idle and when it’s turning off it rattles or even in gear and rocking it back and forth it seems to make more noise then the 20.
I think the bluing was Original, from Factory heat treating. It is cooked oil from quenching the hot plates in oil. The friction plates have just worn away the very top colored surface. All Normal! 🙂
Slave cylinders on the ktm/huskies are known to go bad very quickly. The rekluse is a popular replacement slave cylinder but the spring in them breaks.
I've never seen a KTM clutch system before. That basket is beautiful and steel too boot! WOW! Interesting that the blueing on plates appears to be on the inside indicating heat transfer from inner hub. Are the intermediated plates and the inner hub made of steel? Was it just camera disparities or is it truly only blueing on inside? If it is I'd be looking at an overheating hub issue and not a friction issue. Thanks for showing us poor bastards what new tech looks like!
You are correct about the blueing being on the inside next to hub but I think that’s because the friction plates scrub the surface clean. The hub is aluminum and the plates are steel.
@@highlandcycles was there any blueing on the outside end where the clutch didn't rub? Ive seen plates blued all the way across even through clutch rubber areas. I've never seen it like yours are and especially with so few hours on them. I wonder if the clutch isn't completely releasing? I've never owned a Hydraulic clutched bike. Is there a way to find out if its releasing completely and theres no pressure on it when your finger isn't pulling on the lever? Cable bikes you just back off the adjuster.
@@smashedfootlefty4726 no other blueing. Just the inner plates. Yes it could be that it’s not completely engaging but I don’t think that’s it. The adjustment was spot on.
What oil did you switch to? Great video. How many hours does your friend have on his bike? Other than the bluing would this be a problem getting that hot? I know my last ktms suggest first oil change after 1 hour.
"Yes, Nord-Lock washers can be reused. We recommend that you visually check that the washer is not worn before replacing it. Note that you must orient the washers correctly when reusing, cam side to cam side." Directly from Nord-Lock Group. Yes, they are awesome. Try to loosen the nut with your hand after tightening it finger-tight.
Yeah. I’m learning about them. Super cool.
My 2020 250 xc-w clutch with 140 hours I have never looked at yet. It has made a lot of noise from day one idling but has worked great. I change oil at 15 hours come out dirty but nothing like yours. My 17 te250 had over 200 hours was way quieter than 20 and same thing no problems. Ktm make really good clutches. My 2012 ktm 250 sx had originally clutch and I used it on a snowbike for 4 years. It did rattle a little when first taking off.
My 2023 GasGas EC250 has an identical clutch setup with the Nord Lock washer. I was surprised to see the changes vs my previous KTMs and Husqvarnas.
Amazing how much you’ve done to that thing already...mines just getting broken in...
When you used the impact on the nut was the bike in gear?
That blueing on the inside circumference of the steel clutch plates is the result of KTM’s induction hardening process. Totally normal!
So on my 21 husky fx450 had a similar clutch. The holes are for how hard or soft the clutch is. From the factory they put it on the #2. I switched mine to the #3 and worked much better. Less flame out when I made that change.
So, the real purpose for the different holes is to get the set height on the diaphragm spring correct. If you look at the service manual it shows that you are supposed to get that spring flat on install. That puts the “appropriate” tension on it.
My brand new Beta clutch makes extreme noises when the clutch is engaged. When you pull the lever in and the clutch is disengaged the noises stop.
That’s not normal.
That washer with the ears needs to be lined up with the two holes on the main shaft 👍
Those washers are called Nord-Locks and it is critical they go back together as they were. Very cool type of lock washer, but there is definitely a wrong way with them.
I figured that. Good to know they are good
I had bad chatter in a few spots on 1st gear switchback climb while slightly feathering mid rpm.
Hmmmm
Mine exc-f 350 2024 model burnt the clutch at 25 hours from new. All the metal plates were blued, also the outer hub is now blue without any trace of wear. Damper rubber ware also toasted with small dents. But to my surprise when I disassembled the nut was not very tight, and the needle bearings had much play, which I doubt to be normal. So when I mount the outer hub I can hear clicking noise? What was the problem to your friends bike? Did you found? Cheers!
His was just loose tolerance but it never did what yours did. It’s still working well today.
Could you compare flywheel weight and static compression ratio to the xc w
Dude.. bling'd out fill cap and brake tip ?! When do the spoke wraps arrive ? 🧑🤝🧑🧚♀️🧚👬 hahaha xoxox
Hahahaha. Any day now!!
The weird washers are Nord-Lock washers.
Thanks.
@@highlandcycles nord lock washers should not reused a new should be put on.
@highlandcycles HEY MORGAN..!!!! 🙂 You may know this but... KTM Does Have A Stronger OEM DDS Clutch spring. It will replace any #78132005000 DDS spring but it is Stiffer.
The stiffer spring is #78932005000 and is OEM Stock on the newer 450SX-F/XC-F and 450/500 EXC-F bikes. The stiffer spring is 1.61MM thick versus 1.5MM thick for the Factory installed spring.
It has the same ID and OD dimensions but is slightly thicker, thus stiffer! It is often referred to as the 280 spring. 🤒
THANKS For ALL YOU DO.!!!! 😜🤪😝😎
Yeah. I know but I really want to keep the lever feel like it is. I have since, changed my oil a few times and it’s getting cleaner. Wonder if it was something from break in or some other weird thing.
What's the red oil you are running in there? It looks like the BLUD that I put in my bikes.
Belray gearsaver
Will the Rekluse for my 2020 300 XC work in my 2023 300 XC? I really don't want to buy a new one...
I think so
@@highlandcycles Thank you for responding, I watch most of your vids, I really appreciate your work in teaching.
The bluing indicates clutch slipping yes? Then why would you not utilize the spring hold down disc preload 1.2.3
settings?
It does indicate that but the setting on that retainer is supposed to be used to get the diaphragm spring flat. It’s not supposed to be used to increase or decrease pressure. And the spring was flat
More nordlocks on the silencer mount and the gear slever.
Yep
You said you put it back in the "2nd spot". What do the other spots, 1st and 3rd, do ?
They are for setting the proper pre load on the diaphragm spring. You want the spring to be flat not convex or concave.
@@highlandcycles What makes the spring convex or concave and why would you choose 1 or 3? What does choosing one over the other do to the clutch?
Not gonna lie I reuse the washer lock thingy a cpl times too my KTM clutch is pretty noisy too like a chattering sound works great but the sound drives me insane it's been apart cpl times but me and shops and we don't see any issue they claim it's just a noisy clutch
Maybe that’s what’s up with Dans
@@highlandcycles Very possible but nothing worse then a unfamiliar sound on a new machine makes u think shits gonna blow up are something if u ever figure out what it is making the noise keep me informed so I can check into mine
Did you happen to check the trans fluid level when you first got the bike? I know when you first drained it there didn't seem to be much oil in it.
I didn’t. But that was probably the right amount. 800cc isn’t a ton.
I have 2023 300sx 1.5hrs oil change lots of sluge on magnet and small shiny bits
Mine had a bunch of sludge for the first few changes
The clucth plate design seems to be different to the sx
Hey bro I dig your show, but I disagree with your comments on engine lubrication. I run cheap trans/engine oil but Change it at sooner intervals. A factory mechanic told me that he didn't care what oil I ran as long as I dumped it after every ride/race. In order to benefit from the additives in synthetic blends you have to keep to a stringent maintenance plan. If you ride at the professional level you need synthetic if you are a lapper you can run 30 wt recycled from your car!
Not sure what I said about lubrication that you disagree with. I agree with what you said. I don't like to use crappy walmart oil but I don't think you need to use super high end oil either. As long as its clean its doing a good job. I don't think that way about 2 stroke oil but that is a bit different. In my opinion, the only good thing about fully synthetic motor oil is its resistance to breaking down at high temp/stress
Morgan, could you explain what the “1,2,3” number marks are for?
It's preload positions for your clutch spring which relates to how hard or easy the clutch pull is. 1 is the lightest, 2 medium, 3 hardest.
They are for setting the proper preload on the clutch spring. When everything is tight the cupped washer (aka spring) should be flat
They must of changed something in there. Mine is noticeable louder at idle and when it’s turning off it rattles or even in gear and rocking it back and forth it seems to make more noise then the 20.
That’s interesting. Good to hear. Thanks
Mine is also pretty loud at idle, pull clutch in it Quiets down some. Also makes some weird noise when I shut it down. Anyone else?
Do you have a list of the current upgrades you have made to the bike?
Not yet. Will have a video of that up soon
My sx plates are completely different they have wiggles not the hinson looking plates
Do you beleive my 2017 xc reckluse clutch will work in my 2023 xc ?
Hmmmmm,it looks a lot the same. I’d call the boys at Rekluse and ask. There might be some tiny differences. Also, not sure about the slave cylinder
Called Rekluse like you suggested and Mike with customer tech support confirmed that i only need a new slave cylinder and cover
@@francoishebert213 sweet
At the rate you’re going in showing the subscribers the details of your bike you will have done split the cases by the time I get mine .😁😁😁
Hahaha
You'll know what the inside of your bike looks like before you have one!
Would the "blue-ing" be due to heat or something else?
Heat does that. Usually from slipping the clutch a lot. But I didn’t do that so I’m not sure
I think the bluing was Original, from Factory heat treating. It is cooked oil from quenching the hot plates in oil.
The friction plates have just worn away the very top colored surface. All Normal! 🙂
Homeboy will tear a bike apart in a minute 😆
What kind of oil you use on the engine?
In the transmission I use belray Gearsaver
Brother, What kind of gear oil are you using ?
Belray Gearsaver
@@highlandcycles Oil Weight 80W-85 ?
@@rebelliontotyrantsisobedie5602 I think it’s just 80WT. It’s the synthetic stuff.
Slave cylinders on the ktm/huskies are known to go bad very quickly. The rekluse is a popular replacement slave cylinder but the spring in them breaks.
Really? None of my riding buddies have had issues. I'm at 1000 hours no problems with mine either.
Still waiting on the dealership to call me that mine is in 😢
Come on new bike!!
Same here!
Nordlock washers are legit.
Good to know
👍👍
🤘🏻
I've never seen a KTM clutch system before. That basket is beautiful and steel too boot! WOW! Interesting that the blueing on plates appears to be on the inside indicating heat transfer from inner hub. Are the intermediated plates and the inner hub made of steel? Was it just camera disparities or is it truly only blueing on inside? If it is I'd be looking at an overheating hub issue and not a friction issue. Thanks for showing us poor bastards what new tech looks like!
You are correct about the blueing being on the inside next to hub but I think that’s because the friction plates scrub the surface clean. The hub is aluminum and the plates are steel.
@@highlandcycles was there any blueing on the outside end where the clutch didn't rub? Ive seen plates blued all the way across even through clutch rubber areas. I've never seen it like yours are and especially with so few hours on them. I wonder if the clutch isn't completely releasing? I've never owned a Hydraulic clutched bike. Is there a way to find out if its releasing completely and theres no pressure on it when your finger isn't pulling on the lever? Cable bikes you just back off the adjuster.
@@smashedfootlefty4726 no other blueing. Just the inner plates. Yes it could be that it’s not completely engaging but I don’t think that’s it. The adjustment was spot on.
@@highlandcycles Hopefully the new oil wil help alleviate some of the heat, that stuff that came oil was really dark!
What oil did you switch to? Great video. How many hours does your friend have on his bike? Other than the bluing would this be a problem getting that hot? I know my last ktms suggest first oil change after 1 hour.
I switched to Belray Gearsaver. His bike is at like 3 hrs. Not a problem as long as they don’t warp
5.5 hours on mine.
That coughing doesn't sound good, you should check it...
cheers from sweden.
Thanks. Yeah, I’m getting over the flu
Where do I get a hat?
www.highland-cycles.com/merchandise/i-suck-at-dirt-biking-flat-brim-hat