Rust vs Muriatic Acid ***DISASTER*** Do not do this
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2024
- Rust removal with Muriatic Acid is effective and effortless. Avoid the mistake I did, avoid the disaster! I used muratic acid from Ro-Tyme. Commercial Grade 20º Baume (31.45%).
I really like how you edited your video to keep everything in, including your original happy ending, before showing us the disaster. Lots of people would have taken out their “mistake” and just made this a “how to” video. Instead you keep it real. 👍
Diane, you are 100% right.
Anyone reading this , dry immediately after washing the parts clean of acid, then dry again with a hair dryer or blow lamp to eliminate ALL water from crevices, buff with clean rag and IMMEDIATLEY oil or paint otherwise as others have said parts will flash rust in minutes
Any advice on how to do this on larger items like a farm barn walls and roof?
@@delatroy don’t do that with muriatic acid at all. It’s highly corrosive, gives off dangerous fumes and can’t be healthy for whatever you plan to keep in that barn.
@@michaelpaciello7669 while the appropriate safety precautions need to be taken while using anything corrosive, the fumes do not linger in the way you're assuming. The barn would not become contaminated because muriatic acid was used, but it's not best option for that type of job imo.
Using a pressure washer to remove the rust, replacing any rusty screws, treating the entire surface with a rust inhibiting primer, then painting would be better for a barn.
@@delatroy DON"T!
@@delatroy We used to paint large metal structures like water towers and bridges. Most paint was sandblasted and sometimes chemicaly stripped. \Never I mean never strip more surface area than you can prime seal the same day. Microscopic surface rust sets in almost immediatel it may not even be visible. The next day do another section and prime what you stripped. Once all areas are primed you can sand clean and topcoat. If you don't do this you will have rust immediately starting under the new paint job.
Be sure to neutralize the acid, with Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or Amonia. Then, immediately coat the bare metal surface with a protective barrier like oil, or primer if you plan to paint it.
If you want to electro plate it with nickle how would this be done ? Thanks
Very useful information regarding the impact on metal items from just the fumes from rags containing Muratic acid. I also learned this the hard way after placing a tightly sealed one gallon jug of muratic acid in a metal cabinet only to open it a week later to find a rusty interior of the cabinet and rust on the power tools stored inside.
Like Carl gangl said, you need to OIL everything to keep it from rusting. that's why manufacturers will often have everything covered in oil when you get it. My lathe requires oil regularly to protect against rust
Here's a little story. I once was etching a concrete floor with acid at work. I left the unsealed acid container in my work truck. It fell over and leaked a small amount on tge floor. My work truck was closed and locked for several days while I was on vacation. When I returned there was literally a cloud in my truck when I opened the door. The acid caused slight corrosion on all the bare metal inside the cab of this truck. As for this guy. Wash the part in baking soda before drying. Dispose of the acid laden rags. Hermetically seal any containers having acid. If you have bare metal it's a good idea to coat it so it does not rust if a period of time passes before it will be painted or have other metal conditioning.
yeah and leave the shed door open! those acid vapors will rust everything in sight to bits given time.
I derusted some parts at work in a large automotive garage, left the bucket under a bench and forgot about it. Tool boxes, benches, electrical outlets & conduit started rusting all over the shop. I had to quietly dispose of the stuff before anyone knew it was me who caused the mess.
It is called flash rust. After acid prep, steel must be painted immediately, like within 15-30 minutes, or oiled.
never try to neutralize and acid with water!!! always use a base such as baking soda, and pouring warm water into acid is a terrible idea
All the instructions I’ve read for oxalic acid say to mix it with warm water. What am I missing?
Using muriatic- not oxalic.
Always pour acid into water- never the other way around.
@@williamevans6522 so is it just oxalic that requires warm water? Muriatic, hydrochloride, they don’t need warm water?
@@ProCleanServices In general, chemical reactions speed up with increasing temperature.
I didn't see safety glasses
I am interested in buying your =
Thanks for the good video. A few comments. Acid + base = salt + water. The natural antidote to (muriatic acid) hydrochloric acid is sodium hydroxide (lye). Muriatic acid + lye = table salt + water. Water does not neutralize, only dilutes. Hydrogen chloride vapors irritate the respiratory system and corrode everything nearby in seconds!
In industry, the process is: after degreasing, rust removal with hydrochloric acid and then immediately rinse thoroughly. If the intention is to elektroplate, there is no need to neutralize, because the elektroplating continues in the acid. But if the intention is to paint, you must immediately neutralize with alkali (NaOH) and then rinse with plenty of water and dry with hot air.
Inorganic acids produce interesting results. If you neutralize acetic acid with calcium carbonate (washing soda), you get calcium acetate Ca(C2H3O2)2. When heated, it decomposes into acetone and calcium carbonate.
You mentioned breathing the fumes and the need to use a mask. What you need is an acid gas rated respirator, or preferably such a respirator and adequate ventilation. Also, removing rust by this method might be problematic for the spring as it can make the steel more brittle. The rest of the parts are thick enough that hydrogen embrittlement of the surface is unlikely to be a serious issue. It is nice to see proper buttress threads on the screw, which is a detail often missed for parts today. It is a stronger thread profile in one direction, so it is used in that case in the direction that the screw is tightened.
i used acid to clean some old machinist calipers and dividers, the results were the spring steel piece where the legs squeeze on a pinion the spring just fell into two pieces.
Muriatic acid is very potent stuff, water alone is not enough to netralize the acid. You'll need a mixure of baking soda and water afterwards but even then there's a chance the metal will flash rust and continue go brown afterwards.
Agree baking powder and dry and oil or paint as fast as possible.
@@adrianrouse5148yes I agree. From my experience, do not use indoors, lathe bed, drill press, some tools will turn brown and start to rust. I have done body parts by putting a mechanic cloth on panel, then pour or brush acid on. When cloth turns brown, remove. Repeat as necessary. Neutralize with baking soda, dry and paint immediately
What about hot blueing? If you heat t metal to@ 650-700% then drop(gently!) Into linseed oil it will be black oxide coated
Acid cleaned steel will flash rust very quick so the second you have neutralize it you need to spry the parts with some oil type WD40, or if you are supposed to paint it just do a quick base cote with primer.
Is it necessary to rub baking soda water on parts to neutralize or can you just immediately dry and spray with primer. I’m getting contradicting info. Thanks.
You need to neutralize it before you do anything else.
@@beenheredoneit.4381 thanks! Can that be done by way of a spray bottle with baking soda/ water mixture? Or does the part need submerged/ soaked in baking soda water?
Neutralize with baking soda solution, let dry but quickly oil, paint or spray a coat of clear on it. They will stay shiny! Been there done that. Always wear a 3M respirator with filters. Been there done that.
Thanks. I want to remove rust on an old farm shed. I want to use the acid but I’m worried that it will seep into the soil and make it toxic. How can I be safe or is there another way?
Do you ads baking soda to a bucket of water?
@@josealejandromartinezlopez3924 You add the baking soda to the container the acid is in. If its a small container, pour it in a bigger one with alot of water. Baking soda & acid causes kind of a volcano of fizz & fumes. Best to do it outside.
Best to do everything outside. Those fumes are going to rust everything in your shed.
@@josealejandromartinezlopez3924 Have a separate bucket ready with a solution of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid on the part you are cleaning.
You can buy a gallon for around 12 bucks at home depot with a ~30% concentration. No need to dilute and it's safer to handle. $1.25 ammonia at dollar tree to neutralize it and lots of cheap scrubbers and containers.
Flash rust is a thing, but note how the part that wasn't in the acid didn't rust? Yeah, water alone won't neutralize the acid, use a baking soda water mix, then rinse with plain water after. I made that mistake before, it's a learning process. Love how you had the success and failure together. So many fake people would have edited out the mistake, respect.
Yeah, I learnt the hard way too. Thanks for watching.
Wrong.
This guy took too many risks moving containers and using it inside also strings to pull out the parts. What went wrong is after you rinse make a solution of water and baking soda and neutralize the acid on the parts by dipping them, have a second bucket of baking soda and water to do a final dip. Then when you have the parts clean and dry use a oil base enamel paint, or clean the parts with acetone or lacquer and prime them immediately for painting. Then you are good to stop the rust from returning. Most important be careful, this stuff is dangerous to breathe, wear the appropriate mask and eve protection with gloves.
This is the best advice on this process!!!!!
I can tell you what went wrong! You should have coated the newly derusted parts with a light oil like WD40 to avoid the flash rusting that happened overnight. It would have still ocurred even without the remnants of rubbish left in the rubbish bag.
That depends a lot on the humidity. The main thing that happened here is that he did not actually neutralize the acid. Cleaning it in water is not going to remove the acid. Then, if the humidity is fairly high, it needs coating, oil or phosphoric acid or a primer. If it's not that humid (like winter/spring conditions) then it's not going to flashrust. Ofc it's also important to completely dry the parts, a towel or cloth is usually not enough so it should be dried with hot air or a torch.
@@TheChrisey I've used a product called PHIX:
Spray, brush, or soak to 1) totally dissolve the rust, 2) etch and zinc plate the cleaned metal surface, and 3) phosphate coat the zinc, leaving the surface totally prepped and ready to paint, oil, or polish.
It seems to avoid the flash rust.
Good advice to me, do not leave it in the garage to work, use it in warmer weather. I was aware of the neutalization required of all acids, even vinegar. Just to be safe I will store the container out of doors.
I will use my respirator for sure as well.
Cherish your most important tool, your well working body!
Muriatic acid leaves a greasy residue and just rinsing won't get it off. I wouldn't use too much making soda, Ph neutral is around 7.6, Muriatic acid has a Ph of 1 and baking soda or sodium bicarbonate a Ph of 8.4. It will neutralise it as mentioned plenty of times before but I've personally always had success by simply cleaning with an industrial degreaser and then a pressure washer. On concrete and metal. Bare steel needs to be covered afterwards once dried, oil based primers with an anti rust additive work great.
i used pure acid. The parts were clean in 20 minutes. I washed them with water, and dried them with a clean cloth. I saw the beginning of rust, very faint rust. I laid an open carton, and immediately painted all. A week later I looked. Wherever paint had not reached, was rusted again. So, back to the acid soon, wash with water, and hang objects on metal wire to see all nooks and crannies, then paint again. Oh, the smell of acid or by product of acid eating the rust - I got a brief but really nasty hit. Seems to burn through my nose tissue. Will never forget it. Nobody will.
Great video on the using the m. Acid. Electrolysis still produces hydrogen gas which is very very flammable. What I liked about the m. Acid, the process was really quick. I can’t see myself waiting hours on the electrolysis or the vinegar to work. I’ll spend the extra time on safely using the m.acid 👍🏻
Hey man, it's all good. I know you feel like you wasted some time, and its never fun to have to deal with unexpected problems, but it wasn't wasted. It was probably the best spent time in the whole ordeal. Afterall, for the majority of the video, youre doing exactly what you intend to do, nothing more nothing less. However the part where you're de-rusting it for the second time and feeling that disappointment...just think of that little bit of disappointment/inconvenience as the small price to pay for the confidence of knowing that you'll never make that same mistake again.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the encouraging words!
Or hydrochloric acid if you want the more accurate chemical name. Muriatic acid is an old fashioned term meaning "pertaining to brine or salt" (Wikipedia) which really has little to do with its modern production. A term used more for historic reasons than anything else. Sometimes also called Spirits of salts. If you walk into a hardware shop here to buy Muriatic Acid they will look at you blankly. I suspect that Muriatic Acid usage in the US is a bit like Imperial v metric. Sometimes the US has a bit of difficulty keeping up with the times.
when you acid bath the metal it strips it bare. in that it will rust instantly! take it out of the acid and neutralize in baking soda, dry and either paint or coat in oil to keep it from rusting again rapidly.
It may be a bit redundant, but I think I would pull the parts out. Neutralize them in baking soda and water. Before I did any kind of brushing at all, when dealing with acid. You can always throw them back in if they are not done.
The problem is not disposing the left item. The problem is when those things after it gets treated with muriatic acid come in contact with air , oxygen it corrodes.
Put some in a spray bottle,spray it on the rust.scrub it with a soft bristle brush.than rinse off throughly
To neutralize use baking soda.
"the best way to neutralize it is with water" ABSOLUTELY WRONG IN EVERY WAY
So after I use water but I see it try to get crudd again
Neutralize an acid with a basic material (common material: baking soda, for example)
Lolapathy
It's so funny
@@kevinbirchall2758 water and baking soda then?
@@jwillk9438 Sodium bicarbonate alone would do, adding water may be easier to mix in best
im not a chemist, yet it was explained to me that with acid less or diluted can work very well, full strength acid the molecules are like having to many cooks in one kitchen they impede each others activity, the acid reacts with the metal along with water, now if you want shake a little table salt into it also it can help
Wrong.
You put enough of that powder to bring down the PH in an entire 15,000 gallon pool into a 5 gallon bucket.
It is best to neutralize with baking soda in the water. Plain water would have to be changed a few times with long soaks. This would most likely reflash your rust. Baking soda neutralizes the acid in all the nooks and crannies very quickly so a ten minute soak in warm water with soda will be very effective. Then one rinse in pure water and quickly drying the items seems to work the best. After wire wheeling wipe them off and coat with an oil. I like to heat them to three or four hundred degrees and then quench in oil.
Good advice. What’s the strategy of heating to such high temps at end… is it to dry it?!
@@rudysmachado5747 dry it as well as allow the metal to draw the oil into the steel while forming a strong coating
PS: you do not want any moisture under any type of coating for the most part.
PPS: Also gets rid of the moisture quickly and thoroughly. Longer it sits on or in the metal the more oxidizing occurs. Lots of O2 in water able to combine with the metal for rust, much more than air.
A couple more options are electrolysis and/or warm vinegar with salt added. Keep an eye on small parts when using the vinegar method. I ruined a small auger bit by leaving it in the solution too long. Chlorine will cause you the same problems when left open around tools and such.
👍🍻
There's also evaporust, that stuff works really well
@@domecrack Yeah, there's a guy that has a YT channel that seems to use that stuff exclusively when restoring tools. 👍🍻
@@williamemerson1799 I use it myself all the time. Stuff is phenomenal.
@@domecrack Good to know.. Haven't tried it yet.........mostly cause I'm a cheap slug.🥴
Baking soda neutralizes acid. I am a professional auto technician 20+ years and whenever a battery leaks that’s in a trunk that’s what we use to neutralize the acid and clean up. I personally wouldn’t open a bottle of any type of acid without a big box or bag of baking soda in the event of a spill or something. Might be better ways to neutralize I’m not a chemist but I wanted to say this so maybe it helps someone avoid an emergency.
Those fumes are insidious. 1 gal jug, 41%, lid on tight: inside 48' x 60' shop w 20' walls (large interior volume) all my stuff was rusting. Lid was not fully sealing despite being tight. Put it outdoors and solved the problem.
Three things:
1) Neutralize the acid on the iron by putting them in a baking soda or drain unclogger + water solution for a few minutes, or scrub them down with oven cleaner (fume type). Then soap wash. This will prevent rust flash, and also the rust won't develop under any paint you might use. (Water alone does not neutralize anything.)
2)) Don't acid-bath springs!!! This will cause a change in the metallurgy and also cause stress concentrations. Just buff them off.
3) Those plastics like what the bucket is made of don't get affected by Muriatic acid. However, some plastics disintegrate in short order. Best to keep this in mind.
Thanks for the tips. I will be more careful next time knowing this. Unfortunately I had to learn the hard way. Thanks for watching!
Anyone who knows at least a bit of chemistry would know, remove items from the HCl, wash with water, neutralise in an alkaline solution of sodium bicarbonate, rinse again, then oil or paint.
Out Gassing of the acid will settle on EVERYTHING!!! Glad it worked out in the end.
muriatic acid leaves an oxide layer behind and will keep eating metal use baking soda water. i use muriatic to copper plate and sometime with electrolysis (use graphite for anode)
Used Muriatic Acid for 25 years.
Safety first.
Use full strength or 50/50 water based.
If soaking at full strength it has to monitored. Will eat the part.
I usually will brush acid on non precision car parts. If the part had ground or machine surfaces use sparingly. Or use cleaning vinegar.
Some parts I full on full strength. Trailer axle, trailer springs, lawn mower deck, snowblower housing, car rims.
Parts of machine finish to use a lighter acid to clean. Crankshaft on lawnmower or snowblower.can put electrical tape on ground finishes and do the counterweights with Muriatic.
Always be careful. Bottom line.
Informative video on how to do it and what to watch out for. Thanks for the knowledge. Keep making videos.
You should put some oil after you clean those steel so that moisture cant affect the steel.
You better to use phosphoric acid. It won't clean rust as muriatic acid did, but it turns rust and bare steel surface to black coating that prevents further rust. Similar to the way aluminum "rust" protects layer under it. You don't event have to neutralize exces acid. Just let it dry.
As soon as I saw them after they had got the rust back I thought he didn't neutralise them, should have used some baking soda!
Is this an unofficial Breaking Bad - Season 6 trailer?
Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) will neutralise the acid as already mentioned, but what I did notice was that the black plastic bag was covered in water droplets..With the cold temperatures do you have a problem with condensation?…Uninsulated sheds and garages suffer really badly in winter, especially the ones with metal roofs, to the point where they are dripping with water..Temperature plays a massive part when doing this kind of work..
flash rust,just dip it again and seal immediately after wash and dry!!!and yup the fumes will rust all in the area...
I had a neighbor with a gallon of muratic acid that had a pin hole leak onto a wood bench and didn't know it. It ate a hole in the bench and the fumes caused any fine steel that was nearby to rust in a matter of a couple weeks. Almost a disaster. It's thought me to even bag the jug with some heavy plastic if I store it. I pretty much use the Evaporust now, fairly safe even though it takes a little more time. 👍
Where I bought from, they had it wrapped in a thick thick THICK plastic bag. This chemical must be kept out side! Away from any kids! I don’t use this product anymore. It’s a great product but too dangerous.
@@Quinteros777 Yeah, I keep mine at the end of the garage by the door in a thick plastic bag also. ANY leak can be a disaster. If the stuff wasn't handy to have once and while I would just buy and discard. The good thing is no kids around anymore and ifthat were the case I'd just not keep it around at all. Seeing first hand what just the fumes can do convinced me the stuff is dangerous like a lot of acids.
It’s flash rusting. Could you simply oil the parts after?
I think so
Yes, oil is highly recommended, or electroplating, or galvanizing, or if it's mild steel you can apply a black oxide coating
HI. When you wash your part, did you use a water pressure washer to cleaned deep any acid ? Also, before painting, I highly recommend to paint with zinc (spray can or using a gun LPLV) to repel any humidity and protect against rust.
**HARDLY A DISASTER = I'M GONNA TRY IT!!!**
After you clean parts in acid, immediately rinse in hot water, then wash in hot water and detergent and scrub vigorously.
Rinse again in hot water and dry in a oven.
Get the parts good and hot to evaporate any water and it will also evaporate any traces of acid that may have soaked into the castings.
After cooling paint immediately or oil parts that require lubrication.
The acid is both your friend and your enemy. It can make impossible cleaning easy but you have to work very fast to eliminate it or the parts will rust worse than ever.
Agreed, a friend and an enemy!
My friend ~ IMPORTANT! Water alone does NOT neutralize muriatic acid! You must add a fair amount of BAKING SODA to the water. Also, distilled water is preferable.
After removing rust, I rinse with water, then a baking water solution, If I'm going to paint it? I rinse with HOLDTIGHT solution ( stops flash rusting for about a day). If I'm not going to paint, I final rinse with WD-40, I also ruined some metal in my shop just from the fumes the first time I used it, USE ONLY OUTSIDE!
Best way to learn, but infuriating, but thank you for posting and warning us. 👍
Lol, dude wrapped a bucket with a heat mat. LMFAO
Hey thank you for the video, I hope you keep making them!
Can we use muriatic acid to remove rust from galvanised metal roof sheets?
The rust didn't come from the acid whatsoever. This happens when you get metal down to a bare surface and leave it exposed to moisture.
It's the same reason your brake discs will get a coat of orange surface rust overnight if it's raining.
Bare metal parts need to be covered in either paint or oil almost immediately after cleaning.
You need to neutralize and OIL IT.
Don't forget the butter.
Any specific type of oil?
 what kind of butter
You got it right, you neutralize the acid with sodium carbonate and water then hit it with oil to prevent flash rust. When your ready for paint hit it with acetone to clean off the oil on the parts that are to be painted that simple.
@@litty1776 Unsalted....
Ahhhhh hahaha
Sucker!!!!
Learned the hard way
Use water and baking soda to neutralize afterwards
I usually use engine oil etc to keep from rusting.
Water DOES NOT neutralize acid. Only a base neutralizes acid,. You should have taken your parts from the acid, rinsed them in water and then put them into a base to completely neutralize the acid. You could skip the step of rinsing with water and go straight from acid to base. After that, you must protect the metal to prevent it from rusting.
You need to neutralize the acid with bread soda and water. Wash your parts in bread soda and water, wash your bucket in water and bread soda
I don't think it was the acid fumes. I think it was just moisture in the air flash rusting the freshly etched metal. You got fresh acid etched bare steel. Any bit moisture is gonna make it rust right away.
fastest result. heat it up till it nearly boils.
reason for this is due to how chemicals work faster when the atoms collide more often, which is the effect of higher temperature.
this is in relation to how far away from absolute zero the temperature is though so even at near freezing the acid will still work quite well. though not as well as when it is near boiling.
minuscule difference when speaking about 20 degrees C..
so yea. sort of waste effort unless you are absolutely gung ho on saving a little bit of time.
the way to really make the reaction faster is by concentration, meaning don't delude the solution too much. it is probably already deluded.
!! Important
Always Always Always, safety first.
You can buy gas filters for that gas mask.
thanks my friend you helped me a lot
Welcome Bud! Thanks for watching.
You forgot to neutralize the acid with vinegar or some kind of agent. All of my parts look amazing I use a 2k clear coat on them which seals the metal.
to neutralize an acid you need a base, soap should work just fine.
@lil robert amen bruddah
vinegar is iffy use baking soda and water then soapy water then acetone orheat the metal to remove any moisture
the rule of thumb is that Bases are Slippery. If you are wondering whether it is an acid or a base. if its slippery it doesn't mean its a base, but if it *isn't* slippery it is almost definitely not a base (ie, the thing that neutralizes an acid) (and an acid neutralizes a base). Soaps, toothpaste, baking soda in water, bleach ...slippery... base. Citrus juice, Stomach acid, Milk, coffee... not slippery = acids.
@@beezwelliver4806 Vinegar is not "iffy". it is completely wrong for this purpose. Must use a "base" to neutralize an "acid".
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or ammonia can neutralize the acid. Water only dilutes it.
Scary but effective. Rare Buttress Threads. You did not Neutralize the parts completely . So many 'experts' here!
I found out if you wash/soak it in the gasoline right after taking out from the muriatic acid. all the left over acid from the rusted product will end up at the bottom of the bucket since it s heaviest comparing to petrol (gasoling) . Take it out , gasoline will evaporate and you ll end up with clean product ..paint over or buff it .
U need to oil the metal after wiring. Because it is raw steel which will need to be washed in baking soda after acid
The easiest way to neutralize any acid is to drip it into baking soda solution.
Sir I've used plain old white vinegar . And it's not poison . If it's real bad use a mixture of baking soda and vinegar.
Baking soda is a Base. Vinegar is an Acid... they are opposites. Baking soda neutralizes Vinegar, it is *precisely* what you use to neutralize acids... so mixing it with Vinegar won't make your solution stronger it will make it weaker.
@@ryansenger408 your forehead is shiny
@@ryansenger408 when I have to clean an old n very crusty burnt up stove/ oven to make ready for next renter or find cool tools but are ruined letting it set between scrubbing works very well... But it maybe the grit in the soda .
@@mhxxd4 its not shiny it's bird droppings
1 Minute in and you already messed up!
For that bucket I would only use about a cup of muriatic acid. If you used that whole jug you made it way too strong.
You should agitate the parts occasionally otherwise the parts touching will not be treated.
You DID NOT rub the surface with oil or a light coat of paint.
YOU MESSED IT UP!...
Yup you are the problem!.... ALKA-BOOST? SERIOUSLY?
All you had to do was lightly coat the surface with oil or spray a light coat of paint on the parts.
You're just over thinking way too much!
Next time, I'd just do one piece with each test. That way you don't have to waste a lot of labor if it doesn't work out.
yup that's muriatic acid for you, and that's why I only use Phosphoric acid, I painted a hood of my truck after stripping it with Muriatic acid, neutralized it with baking soda after and still it rusted in less then a year after being primered and painted, trust me it wasn't that you left those other items in the shed, Muriatic acid does not prevent rust, that's why hot rodders use it to build up fake rust patina, it will actually rust things
Liked your good video presentation but you failed to oil your parts afterwards. Just plain old wd40 spray will protect or if in a pinch motor oil rubbed on.
Plus forgot to mention 5 gallon bucket of water and 5 cups baking soda is neutralizing agent post acid dip.
This deserves more likes truth be told
Dilute the acid and have a means of neutralizing it afterwards.
Once you crack the seal the fumes still are able to escape an flash rust your work
Baking soda it actually if you have Heart burn also works too .
You should have sprayed everything with WD 40 until ready for re-painting.
Should he have used baking soda to neutralize it? 😂 I wasn't sure after the 67 comments that said to use baking soda to neutralize it.
😅💪
Soak the parts in baking soda solution, rinse, dry and coat with oil or paint.
Keep reading your missing some steps
Know I know the meaning of "Rust Never Sleeps."
Baking Soda Bro. It's the only way to neutralize the acid. Not water but baking soda water solution. They said oil I prefer WD40, more or less there is going to be many more after me saying this.
wipe it dry really good and spray wd 40 on it rub it in
Dude... bare iron with rust within hours is not coated with some kind of protectant. This is expected.
Coat all surfaces with oil as soon as water dried off the items.
I have been using it to derust parts for years or clean fuel tanks. It's no big deal.
Perhaps you should have neutrelized with baking soda, then protected with a coat of wd40. Ohh and wear your safety glasses as well!
Exactly don’t do it in the closed space open space and neutralise your stuff with baking sofa to bring down the ph then add wd40 then next day degreaser then as paint to your project and then recoil components... it’s not that hard... and also add more baking sofa to have a better effect on neutralising.
Wd40 is not a lubricant/ oil. Does not prevent rust.
@@bigtxbullion WD stands for Water Displacement, it won't lubricate but it *will* prevent rust.
@@motoservo we all know what wd stands for. However, Wd40 sucks. You dont coat anything with it. zinc prevents rust. Oil lubricates and prevents rust, wd 40 is a short term product which will always have to be supplmented by another product to acheive long term rust prevention.
@@bigtxbullion I don't think everybody on TH-cam knows what WD stands for, quite a few I meet in person don't. I have good luck with it as a rust preventative, actually.
All water will do is dilute the acid. It has to be neutralized.
Thanks
Soak parts in soapy water , then polish, then oil or paint it asap.
I need to remove heavy rust from steel base columns . So if I understand. 1. MIX 1 cup acid + 1 cup water with baking soda. 2. Spray 3. Rinse with water 4. Dry really good and 5. W40 or primer. I am right? Thanks
No
Sounds like you know exactly what happened in there guy. Yikes! Gteat looking od bench vice though!
You made a shitload of mistakes. Water does not neutralize acids. Sodium bicarbonate will neutralize the acid but leave a film preventing paint adhesion, use sodium hydroxide. You had flash rust in parts but the black is called smut and is the impurities brought to the surface by the acid. You still had acid in the pores of the cast iron because you didn’t neutralize the parts. You should have dissolved the rust with the HCL, neutralized with lye (NaOH ), washed in water , dried and painted. The polishing is a waste or time. A quick dip in phosphoric acid would have left a phosphate coating on the iron for more protection and paint adhesion. Warming the acid is not necessary , it would have worked fine but taken longer. Putting springs in the hydrochloric acid is not good, you run the risk of hydrogen embrittlement and the spring may break.
Wow dude, where were you before I began this adventure?!!! Thanks for sharing you knowledge. Surely will help the rust removing community.
You neutralize muriatic with baking soda, then water
You made it way too strong. For every 1 L, use 900 mL of water then 100 mL of the concentrated HCl. That means you will dilute the acid 10X. Always add acid last. So it you want about 3 gallons total. Add 10.4 L of water to the bucket first then about 1 L of the acid last. You only need to put the part in for about 20 minutes.
You didn't neutralize the acid bro. Use baking soda. It stops the process.