Delta Auto Calibration - Marlin 1.1.9 - Chris's Basement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- We run auto calibration on the AnyCubic Kossel Delta and upgrade it to Marlin 1.1.9.
00:00 Intro
00:42 Hardware Configuration
02:43 Marlin 1.1.9 Up Grade
06:10 Calibration and Leveling
07:01 Test Print
10:54 Conclusion
Marlin link:
marlinfw.org/
Arduino IDE:
www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
Link to sensor on BangGood (aff):
goo.gl/7ZmeDy
Link to config from this video (needs calibration ran):
drive.google.com/open?id=1fG0...
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Chris, I just love your no bs videos. Thanks for taking the time to help out the community. Cheers man. Much appreciated.
Thanks Sam, I am glad you enjoy the videos.
Thanks for the run-through with configuring Marlin. Looks like I’ll be doing a FW update this weekend.
You're welcome. They did a nice job on the config.
I haven't been able to use my Anycubic Kossel for awhile but with your walk through I'm gonna give it a go tonight. Thank you.
Awesome! I hope it helps get it up and going!
Ahh, another intrepid voyager taking a trek to the Delta quadrant.
May the force be with you!
Thanks James, I always look forward to seeing what you come up with. lol
Thank you so very much! I have lots of printing issues with my AnyCubic kossel, mainly due to bad leveling. This video is spot on!
You bet, hope this gets things sorted out.
I have just started using a anycubic kossel linear plus and the auto leveling is awesome, simple and takes no more than 5 mins. So if you can get a copy of the firmware and a level adaptor it will make it easy for you.
@@peterdarlow1131 Thanks Pete, agreed, it makes life so much easier.
m.anycubic3d.com/support/show/594034.html
Thanks Chris Riley, you are my new hero. Finally my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus works like it should !!!. Thanks alot, from Norway!.
You're very welcome!
My first 3D Printer was a low-cost kit from China. At the time, it was running Marlin from late 2016. Rough stuff. Great to see Marlin and auto-calibration working so well on the Kossel Mini!
For sure John, it has come a long way.
how could anyone thumbs down a video with this much useful information!!! Great Job!!
Thanks! Thumbs downs must be robots. ;)
Hi Chris, thanks for pointing it out.
I was going with 1.1.8 and there I had to use in my GCODE the M420 S1 to enable the ABL:.
I was not aware of the define to RESTORE ABL. Cool...
So this weekend, I will give the 1.1.9 a try I guess.
Have a nice weekend,
Greets from Germany.
Yeah, give 1.1.9 a try it appears to be much easier. Hopefully you are having a great weekend as well. Thank you!
Recently acquired one of these. Thanks for helping me learn to make it work properly
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Great video. quick easy to follow and fixed a lot of my firmware issues.
Great! Glad it helped you.
Great video. Seriously thinking of getting the kossel plus as my next printer so that's really helpful.
Thanks! For the money, they're really not bad printers.
Hey Andy, did you ever get the delta? I am interested myself, about to make the jump just wondering how was your experience so far?
Great tutorial! If you didn't know Chris(hard to believe :) ), the connector on the Anycubic ABL is JST-SM. Pigtaills are available for very cheap on amazon and ebay.
Thanks! Oh nice! It looked kind of strange to me, glad its somewhat easy to get.
Chris great to see this.
Did the same about 3 weeks ago. only i forgot the record it :)
on the kossel linair plus. the type 2 probe is already supplied with the printer.
good to see i didn't do strange things you didn't do.....
was also thinking about if a bl touch would be better, but the point is it's important here that the probe is as close to the nozzle as possible.
and what is better then under it so you only have a Z offset diff.
i ordered it because i also wanted to learn more on the Delta type printer.
next project a coreXY DIY, collected more then enough "spare" parts.
keep up the informative vid's
regards Ron
Thanks Ron! Yes, I tried many times to get the Bltouch to work and just couldn't make it happen.
Dude..... you sir are awesome I've been trying to get mine to work with the microswitch for months
Thanks man! Hope it helps.
@@ChrisRiley This Worked Great!! I can finally use my delta after 6 months lol thanks to you
@@trucker2215 That is awesome!
Thank you very much for this great tutorial. You helped me a lot with this.
Awesome! Great to hear!
Nice video, Chris. I've built two delta's from scratch, both using Smoothieware right now. For the little one I just got a Duet3d "Smart Effector" and some magnetic rods from Filastruder to replace the craptacular pivoting hotend and microswitch thing I was using before. It's got a strain gauge built into the effector for calibration, and it works great. It was kinda expensive, but I'm really liking the magnetic balls over the old Traxxas ends. (Std disclaimer: Just a satisfied customer)
Thanks! Sounds like an awesome setup. I really want to get into a higher class delta someday.
Sweet!!! I just got my microswitch magnetic leveler from fasttech (same one you got!!!!!) for my Anycubic Kossel...gonna get mine setup the same way! Thanks for this video!
Awesome! It took me a couple of times to get mine going, but once I was on 1.1.9 everything just seemed to work.
@@ChrisRiley i want to put 1.1.9, and the esp8266 wifi mod too
@@haydenc2742 At some point I want to go back and try the Wifi mode with a different 8266, see if I can make it faster.
Cool upgrade! Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for making this video! Help a lot!
Sweet! You're welcome, glad it helped!
Nice tutorial, thank you.
Thanks Walter! Always appreciated.
Top man! thanks for posting this, I was going to wait a while before I tackled my kossel again but I think this may just be worth a shot before I start chucking money at it, I wasnt truly happy with the strange way my anycubic linear plus autocalibrates the print bed , it always seems to scrape a tiny bit low on one side scaring the print on larger prints , its my understanding that this seems to be a known issue with some marlin versions, I was planning on major changes, including a new 32 bit board located outside the frame moving it from under the bed as I'm not too keen on it being slowly toasted there, in the mean time I've been using my 2 creality machines as they just work without fuss or fiddling, however its nice that anycubic give you a board with 5 removable stepper drivers when you only use 4 so you have a spare, I removed the unused driver for the 2nd extruder on mine - thanks again I look forward to seeing more from you soon
Thanks Andy! Yes, 1.1.9 seems to have corrected a lot of the issues I was seeing before. Definitely worth a try.
Thanks Chris!
Thanks for watching!
Nice thanks for sharing 😀👍
You're welcome!
You know what would be a great video for the Delta / Kossel printers is a complete Up-To-Date walk through of (installing / setting up) the firmware with the latest Marlin 2.0 using VSCode. one that also shows you how to do the delta calculations as well. For one there is not many guides for Delta / Kossel firmware to begin with, video or otherwise, and if you find any they are base around relatively old versions of Marlin and usually just tweaks to existing firmware. They mostly are not a fresh build from scratch. Most build from scratch guide for Marlin firmware are Cartesian or CoreXY. Anyways it is just a thought.
Thanks for the comment, I have been thinking about my delta lately, maybe this is what I should do with it.
Thanks man you just saved me
Awesome!
Thank you. You fuckin' rock bro. Followed your vid to a T, and I'm smooth sailin'.
Awesome, great to hear.
I got one question for you regarding calibration, again, awesome vids and i follow them.
The reason why i ask you this.
How do i calibrate with autobedleveling when i have the same effector plate but swaped out the effector and holder for it?
I can still use the original bedleveling probe, but the new setup makes the nozzle to have an offset from the probe and it is not directly above the probe as the original one was.
Thanks.
If it's not too far off from under the nozzle, it should still get you the same results.
Hey Chris, thank you so much for this - I got my Delta from a friend who lost interest and had no idea how to do any of this and now it's working perfectly!
Unfortunately, the bed was pretty beaten up from previous print attempts with incorrect settings. Any recommendations for a new sticker or bed for it?
Hey Billy, glad it helped you. I really like just these PEI stickers, they stick to pretty much everything if you have a heated bed. whambam3d.com/collections/o200/products/pei-build-surface-add-on?variant=29234966954082 If not, you might try some geckotek cold, www.geckotek.co/collections/ez-stik-hot/products/ez-stik-cold-3d-printer-build-surface?variant=12604144517235 You will have to cut a square one down, put it is easy to cut.
Hey Chris, Very informative. I've never had a delta (yet) but I do like the look of the kinematics when printing, might get a delta to try some time.
When you pushed on the sensor at 1:30, it looked like it flexed a little, maybe thats what prevented your print from being quite up to scratch?
Thanks Spike as always for watching. It could have been, I worked on this video for about 3 days trying to figure out the best way to get it level. Seemed like glass was the winner. This delta has just enough wiggle room on the smooth rods to make it just a little off. I was pretty impressed that the level was even close to this good.
@@ChrisRiley Ah! of course, Deltas would need very tight couplings to be accurate. Still a great result for all the work you put into it. So far the only surfaces I've used are PEI (MK2) and glass (Sigma and CR-10). I would like to try a lighter surface on the CR-10 at some point, but I have great results with glass (and Magigoo) so not really in a rush, they all seam to have limitations, but glass works great across the board for me.
My Keenovo bed has just arrived so looking forward to installing it, maybe over the weekend if I can get time. I plan to install the SSR separately so need to design an enclosure for it.
Chris, great video as usual!! Would you recommend the SKR board as an upgrade to an older delta?
Sure, the delta might need a few upgrades here and there to go faster, but the board should work out great.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks! Not looking for crazy speeds. Already tried Klipper and that's OK on the older board, but hard to tweak. Really just looking for decent prints via USB, and that's not possible with the old 8 bit board on the Delta.
@@spaniard3dprints720 Right on, yeah then SKR should handle it just fine.
Hey Chris. Love you videos. Have you thought about doing a BIGTREETECH SKR V1.3 with the Anycubic Kossel? - as its a delta. Things to consider in the config etc
Thanks! Great idea, I will see what I can do.
I am super bias but a video of going from stock board swapping over stock steppers setup and go :-)
Hi just installed 1.1.9, thanks to your video. Only thing I can't find is a "Stop or Pause Print" in the menu! This function is very handy if you come across a problem when printing.
Do they not show when a print is running? I thought the showed up when printing from SD. I would have to go back and check.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris
It doesn't show when printing via USB. I'll have to try when printing from SD.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris
Just tried it printing with SD card and it does show stop and pause print.
Cheers
Nice one! Cheers :) just bought the magnetic levelling sensor, the ultrabase glass and a new hot end to rejuvenate my Kossel.. knew you'd have the video I need.. I'm thinking about buying a 32 bit controller for my Anycubic delta.. any suggestions? Thanks. Stan.
Awesome, check out the SKR boards, they are cheap and can probably handle it easily.
@@ChrisRiley thank you sir ;)
Chris, What options do you know of for a Monoprice Mini Delta? As always your videos share lots of information; but one thing I did miss was a quick time lapse of the auto calibration process. Deltas are less common, and auto bed leveling is different on a delta. Thank you!
Thanks John! Yes, I should have included more time lapse. I was trying to get through it, I probably should have slowed down a bit. Pointers and opinions are always appreciated.
On the mini, I run this in the start gcode after the heatup and G28. G29 P6 Z0.8 This will probe the largest pattern and set the Z offset to 0.8. You might have to adjust the offset from machine to machine.
@@ChrisRiley I hope you understand I am not really a troll, just giving you useful feedback. I still hit the Thumbs Up button you did a great job covering the important information.
Lol, you're the best John, very helpful point of view on the videos, I really do appreciate it.
Hi Chris Great tutorial, thank you.
I have a question: I have followed along with my own printer and all works as expected with one exception my hotend drags on the build plate. Do I have to lower my Z height? and what would be the simplest way to manage that?
Thanks again.
If it drags every where on the build plate, then yes, a height adjustment should fix it. So the easiest way is in eeprom, do an M503, look for M665 out put, your delta height is the H setting. You can change it with M665 Hxxx then M500 to save.
I'm sorry for my english.
Thank you very much for this tutorial, you saved me!
I have a question, does this firmware go to a K800 delta printer?
You should be able to make it work with a K800, it might take some custom setup.
@@ChrisRiley Ok, thank you again for your help.
Great demonstration. Right now, I am running repetier on my delta. It does have bed distortion correction ( I think it is basically auto calibration ). Are there other compelling reasons to go to Marlin?
I am kind of in a fact finding mode right now on this very subject. I hope to have a side by side list soon.
@@ChrisRiley great. I like to tinker and this seems like the next thing. ( or klipper )
Got gifted a Kossel Linear Plus by my brother today because it was being used as a door stop. Google sends me to your channel and a video on this machine. Awesome, especially after having upgraded my Anet A8 to Marlin following your videos. I've hit one snag I hope you can give me a lead on. Everything seems to power up, I've flashed Marlin 1.1.9 and can connect and drive the motors through Pronterface. Homed X & Y but scared to home Z for fear of bed crash. Haven't seen a flat bed like this for ages :P However the LCD display only shows the main page. Rotating the dial and/or pushing the dial button does nothing at all. So I can't navigate to the auto calibration etc. functions. Cables are connected in the correct order. Any ideas on how to trouble shoot this? I guess I could always buy another display but I'd rather do that after confirming it was faulty. Appreciate any advice you can offer.
Hey, not sure, but I would go back and look through Marlin again. There is an option for no menus, maybe this got ticked by mistake.
@@ChrisRiley OK thanks. I'll check it out. You've got a great, no-nonsense channel. Love it!
@@ChrisRiley Found the no menu define in Configuration.h //#define NO_LCD_MENUS but it was commented out. Thanks anyway for pointing this out. Would not have thought about that possibility at all. I'll take a look at hardware now. Cheers.
Hey Chris, this is another video right up my alley. I got ahold of an AnyCubic Chiron which comes with the same bed leveling sensor. What I would like todo, however, is change over to a bed leveling method that executes at the start of each print without manual intervention, for this I've chosen to use a Precision Piezo. My plan is to take the wires connected to the provided Anycubic bed leveling probe (SIG and GND) and feed them to the precision piezo sensor with an additional 5V from another pin. I'm almost wondering if the additional code would need to be added in marlin to account for this change though as it will basically be sending a high signal when it triggers just as the Anycubic sensor would have. Let me know if you see some flaws in my logic! One thing I can see the need to change is the Z offset of the probe that is placed within the original marlin code Anycubic uses with their sensor.
Makes since to me. I really want to try one of those sensors out. My guess is your offset would be really close to 0. Maybe + 0.2mm ? Not sure, let me know how it goes.
@@ChrisRiley Hey Chris working away at implementing this at the moment. One complexity with the Anycubic Chiron is that it has quite a few daughter boards which plug into the main trigorilla board like the one here in your video, this makes tracing a connection back to a particular pin a bit difficult. What I would rather do is look up in software what pin is assigned to a specific function. Do you have any guidance on doing that? Maybe as an example going from the Z min in the config.h to its associated pin in whatever file that information would be found?
@@singhm29 All that info will be in the PINs.h file. For the anycubic, check in pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h and whats not in there will be in pins_RAMPS.h
@@ChrisRiley Read a bit more into the marlin documentation and came to that realization but thank you for confirming! The really odd thing is the board configured for the version I downloaded is actually BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB which is a bit confusing as I can't find a pins_BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB.h anywhere.
@@singhm29 Yeah all the RAMPS boards are covered in the same ramps pins file.
do you by any chance have an updated video of this same printer to a better firmware?
Sorry, I don't.
Chris - would this upgrade process be the same for other makes/brands ? I have a gearrev delta ( micromake clone ) where the autolevel is triggered by the whole head pivoting to activate a micro-switch, and it's not the most reliable thing with the head frequently sliding across the build surface while trying to trip the switch. I'd like to add in secondary switch on an arm - in your upgrade video, it doesn't look like either of those brands ( gearrev/micromake ) has an example configuration. Would this be considered 'kossel mini' or generic ? Or is there even a difference ?
As long as you are using Marlin, they are going to be very similar. I would just go with the config that is close to the size of the delta you have.
Hi, thanks for the video, as far you know should be possible use tmc2130 with stallaguard detection as endstop and calibration sensor?
Thanks
You're welcome! Ooooo, that's a good question, I would think so yes, that sounds like something cool to try.
Hi Chris, more great work. I have converted my FLSUN QQ-s to a Bigtreetech SKR v1.3 with TMC2209s. When I try an Auto calibration the print head goes down until Z min is triggered but it gives a "Probing failed" message (M119 normally shows open but when it fails it shows triggered) Z height is showing 43.29. I am using Marlin 2.0. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks
It probably thinks it doesn't have any more room to travel so it can't probe. Be careful here because you might have a crash. You can try it with min Z endstops off. M211 S0
Do you hage any video on delta auto calibration using a NPN sensor and perhaps from scratch (not using an model specific Configuration file)? That would be great for ppl like me that is converting his non standard kossel alt to ABL. Thanks for this video, though
Hey Bruno, I don't, on a smaller delta like this one it's hard to use a sensor that is not at 0,0 because of the effector tilt. If I get a bigger one I will investigate this topic.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for answering. The Kossel Alt delta I am working on has a 25cm round x 80cm tall print area. Search for it in thingiverse, it is a robust (very) big printer!
@@brunocabral1578 That's a big printer! I hope you find the information you're looking for.
Hey man! I have an iverntech delta, which I assume is an anycubic rebrand, and followed your directions, but as soon as I hit auto callibrate, it homes, then comes down about 2 inches, goes back up an inch, comes down and inch and stops. Then nothing... I figure its got to be a setting thats not allowing the head to come down to the bed....
I also have a piezo bed leveling cap that came with the printer... any suggestions? thanks in advance.
What does M119 look like? Sounds like it can't figure out what the sensors state is.
Hi, I'd try to do as you do. I had to admit it. The delta calibration and bed levelling look great. but now I'm stuck at z offset, can you tell me hw you do it? Please
Make sure your eeprom is clear, m502 then M500. There might be an offset stuck in there. Then use M851 Z to set your new offset.
Out of context question for this video but not for the printer.
Do you know where information about upgrading a pulley to linear, from 180 to 230 print area?
If not, are you thinking about doing it to your own? If so, possibility for a how-to video?
Thanks.
I don't have any info on that, but I hope to do more delta stuff in the future.
Hi Chris! nice job. I wanna ask you one question. While configuring my new delta 3D printer I faced one basic problem that is related to the Z-axis. while printing it's not keeping the height constant and the C-motor is not compensating the height while printing the base. what shall I do anyone who faced and figured out?
Thanks! It almost always has to do with the level of the probe. Make sure your probe is staying as level as possible while probing. You might try probing a smaller area.
I have changed the end platform for a bigger one, and now I have a weird geometry with bad angles when I print an X,Y,Z cube calibration. I change the end effector value from 33 to 55, and I have this issue. Do you know what i have to change on arduino ? Because with an horizontal radius lower I have a smaller cube, it is not what the result expected. 10:05 10:06
It's been a long time since I leveled a delta and the value labels may have changed. Maybe this manual level video would help. th-cam.com/video/Xk7remEhUx8/w-d-xo.html
my z_min_endstop is set to false but the bed leveling goes the the top? what do i need to change?
Make sure you machine is set to home in the MAX, or at the top of the machine. It sounds like it thinks it's upside down.
Um using a Linear Plus and Marlin 1.1.9 and can't get the Offset to work well; it is -17.34 and at the printing i needed to set the Z Offset to -0.650; so it means i have to set the Offset to -17.99 right?
It looks like the printer can't read more than -17.34 on Offset because even if i set it to -17.99 it levels the Nozzle at the same height as before, needing to do "-0.650 Z Offset" again during print. I have already saved the Settings to EEPROM and modified the Probe value to even lower.
Oh.... And at "Probe z Offset" Option i can't get the Nozzle all way down, there is always missing about a centimeter.
It kinda sounds like something is stuck in eeprom, but you said you already reset it. Not sure what is going on here.
Hi.have you succeed ABL a delta printer with X or Y Offset probe?
I have not, I have only got this working when probing with the nozzle.
I have an Anycubic Kossel with Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 can this be upgraded to 1.1.9? I understand 3D printers but I have never messed with the firmware.
It can be, but it will be a lot of manual entry because those versions are very different from each other.
@@ChrisRiley It may not be something I can tackle without some guidance.. I wouldn't want to mess something up and not be able to print at all..
Chris, need a little help. I just changed my Anycubic delta from chitu to marlin 2.05. Every thing is looking good, but I am confused by z-baby stepping, and what to do with it and how that effects the print when loaded into firmware / eprom. I understand z babystepping moves z up and down. And it appears that to make it permanent, it gets added ( subtracted )to the z probe offset. ( video 8:24 and 9:53). Can you elaborate here? How does changing probe offsets effect the z-height? My example is my nozzle_to_probe_offset is -16.3 and my desired z baby stepping is -0.075. Do I make the probe offset -16.375? Ahhhhhh Brain hurts. What am i missing?
Hey Mark, I struggled with this as well. So setting it to adjust the probe offset assumes your probe can reach the bed before you nozzle does. The offset is the difference between where the probe triggers and where your nozzle touches the bed. If your offset is -16.3 and you need to get the nozzle 0.075 closer to the bed, then yes, your offset is now -16.375
@@ChrisRiley thank Chris. Ill give it a shot. So no further probing required ( it is a manual deployment probe like you just used on your delta video )
@@markferrick10 Nope, you can use it after the fact.
@@ChrisRiley thanks Chris. You're a good man.
i have a anycubic kossel linear plus i'd like to install 1.1.9 in. would these settings work for it? thanks!
Yes, you just have to change the options at the top to use the plus.
@@ChrisRiley thanks Chris! Great vids!
please is there a preconfigured firmware for my delta linear plus all stock 3d printer. im a noob and am at my wits end trying to get mine back in operation. i have #2 bed sensor for bed leveling. it is belt driven
These are the original configs for these printers. drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B8VIB533cgdMSVMxNm43aG1OQ0U?resourcekey=0-T6uxKztXi7q0gGs9MmxLxg
@@ChrisRiley thank you!
Have you explored using repetitier?
I have been getting a lot of questions on it, I think I will.
Nice
Thanks Paul!
hi chris, i have a problem, i followed every step, but now when i select autocalibration my print head stops at 30 cm from the print bed, and on the lcd printer i get : ''probing failed''. what can cause this?
Most likely it thinks the sensor is triggered already use the m119 command to figure it out and maybe flip your probe endstop wires.
@@ChrisRiley the sensor seems to work fine, if i manually trigger the sensor with my finger, it start the calibration, but as i said before, it doens't touch the plate.
And the m119 command show that the sensor it's ''open'' when is not touching anything , and ''triggered'' if i press the sensor.
I have an Anycubuc kossell linear plus with 288.15 length aftermarket rods. After following this tutorial the entire back of my bed is 2mm lower then the front after the bed leveling. any idea why my issue may be?
Are you using the stock sensor? Could also be something is eeprom messing you up. You might try clearing it out again and rerunning. M502 then m500.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you Chris. I'm using a stock v2 sensor with ultra base bed...I already did the EEPROM clearing twice and no help.
Your videos are by far the most helpful on TH-cam I’m still shocked you don’t have 10X+ the subscribers. Thanks again.
@@irsalman Any luck finding the issue? Maybe it's getting bad probe readings?
Chris Riley no, not yet. I’m thinking I need to just donate this thing. if you want the headache, it’s all yours bro.
@@irsalman lol, I don't know if I can take another 3d printer headache.
I have the kossel linear plus and have followed instructions but the print head keeps crashing into bed after calibration. Any suggestions would help!
So many people have this same issue. It can be so many things. Make sure your endstops are nice and tight first. What version of Marlin are you working with?
Chris Riley using the one in the video 1.1.9 end stops seem super tight . I’m not sure I want to put much more time into this printer as I bought it cheap . If you have any more suggestions I’m all ears!
@@briandalton9093 The only other thing I know to try would be to reduce the size of the probing area. You can us the probe bounding setting.
Chris Riley so change the probe setting back to 20 from the 10 you used in the video? Thanks again for the suggestions!
@@briandalton9093 Try that, or maybe even 30. Just trying to get good solid probes.
Hi Chris, I'm still having problems! Runnung a standard Anycubic Kossel Mini. Replaced motherboard with TMC2100 drivers.
Followed your video on installing Marlin 1.1.9 . Everything seems to be working OK, untill I run "Auto Calibration. Machine holts after 1st calibration run and I have to reset. I've setup the TMC2100 voltage. Do you think it is anything to do with these?
The drivers could be overheating. The 2100's are kind of bad about that.
@@ChrisRiley I have shorted the two pads on the chips to prevent missing steps.
This has cured the problem. Printer new runs all calibrations!
Which chips do you recommend?
@@paulmarchant5920 I really like the 2209's.
please tell me if I mail you my new board for my anycubic kossel linear ,, you can program the latest firmware and test it for me?
I am sorry, I just don't have time to set that up.
i have an question? my kossel is calibrating like 5 times now is this normal?
Yes, it might run through it many times.
@@ChrisRiley thx yes it fixed now !
Hey man, I have the Kossel Plus, does this set up look correct?
// normal size or plus?
//#define ANYCUBIC_KOSSEL_PLUS
Yes, that is correct, you would need to remove the comment from that line and if you have another line that is not plus you will need to comment that one out.
@@ChrisRiley YOU. ARE. AWESOME!!!!
I'm sitting in front of Marlin and I'm very confused right now. What is the difference between DELTA_RADIUS and DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS ?? What do I have to type where?? The output of M503 gives us 2 types of radii: R and B so confused right now...
Hey Felix, so Delta radius, that's the math of the Delta and how it is actually configured. Delta printable is something newer, you set printable so you don't get tower crash, even with delta you could have square beds and other crazy things, so printable radius keeps it in bounds.
@@ChrisRiley today I had another look at it and it made more sense than yesterday at 23:00 h... thanks a lot for this tutorial!
@@felixhauser9948 No worries, glad to help.
I'm trying to do the same but with Anycubic Predator Delta and Marlin 2.0 out of SKR PRO 1.1. I hope steps are the same and I will succeed.
They should be very similar.
Hey I have a question about my anycubic Kossel. When ever I try to print it will print for about 1- 1 1/2 hours and just stop and the lcd goes blank then i try to restart it and the lcd is very dim and whenever I click something on it it restarts. What could the problem be? Do you have any idea?
Wow, not sure, are you printing from the SD? Maybe a bad SD card reader.
Chris Riley I get the same results with printing by usb I’m guessing it’s just a bad board any suggestions for good new ones?
@@Mike-gv4je As usual, it depends on price. If you want to go back with something like came with the printer on the cheap, I would look at something like a MKS 1.4. If you want to go super high end, I would look at something like a Duet.
Chris Riley I went high end and got a duet maestro have you ever tried this board before?
@@Mike-gv4je I have not, I have a Duet wifi, very impressed with it.
Could you install Klipper to this machine and upload your youtube? I want to install Klipper to this machine. Please explain bed leveling for this machine.
Have a nice day
I will see what I can do!
@@ChrisRiley thanks a lot
Have delta plus, with ultrabase heated bed, and probe v2, after doing all the steps a couple times, it still crashes into the bed and scrape. (Have Marlin 1.1.9, and followed the instruction twice) Note: LCD is not working, so everything i am doing is in Pronterface.
Is there anything funny in eeprom? That could cause some issue.
@@ChrisRiley Followed every step, I had to subtract .85 from the height, then everything was good (for paper test)
@@voc007 Nice! So is it all working now?
@@ChrisRiley yep it is working now with that paper test adjustment, thank you.
I bought the pulley version with the bed leveling already installed.
And IT works fine but my prints come out to Small..
I know that i have to change the diagonal rod value but after i did that the leveling process changes everthing again.
Does somebody have an idea what to Change?
That sounds like a wrong step setting maybe. Like X,Y,Z are set to low. How much to small are they?
Chris Riley Hi , I have the same problem , i print a calibration cube 20*20 the measures are 19*19,5 ,height is correct , are the step settings wrong? , thx for all the videos of the channel
@@yuyileon Yeah, that is going to be really hard to correct on a delta. About all you can do make sure the hardware in as correct as you can get it.
how to slow down the auto delta calibration z speed.?
There are setting in Marlin that will control the probe speed. Just search for probe you will find them.
@@ChrisRiley Got it ,Thanks!
After I upgraded to Marlin 1.1.9, (I even tried the Marlin-bugfix-1.1.x and Marlin-1.1.x), my Kossel Pulley seems to behave strangely.
Upon doing the LCD [Auto Home}, or even the G28 on the Pronterface ==> the print head goes up to HOME and then once it has "homed" itself, it goes down by about 45mm and stays there.
It was working perfectly well previous to the firmware upgrade. Hope someone has a clue what could be going on.
That is safe delta homing doing that, you can turn it off if you like. DELTA_HOME_TO_SAFE_ZONE
@@ChrisRiley . You just save me from wanting to tear my printer up. I am now on my way to the next step. Absolutely fantastic response.
Just to let you know that I wrote about your help & video here. More Kossel owners should know about this video. macro-passion.blogspot.com/2020/09/catching-up-with-my-3d-printer-i.html
I purchased this printer and just couldn't get it to level, the nozzle just kept crashing into the back of the build plate, probably my lack of experience.
It takes a TON of fiddling with a delta to manually level the bed...then it's not always 100% because you can almost NEVER get them 100% perfect...with this, automatic calibration and levelling...I really think it will become an AMAZING printer! Plus it's really cool to watch a delta print where the arms move all over the place
You can get that exact leveling head from fasttech for like $14~ Probably cheaper from other outlets like aliexpress or something
@Enoch Root @Brian C As Brian was saying, it is so hard to get these 100% with a manual level. As the firmware has gotten better the auto level saves a ton of time.
thanks for the replies guys....I'll give it another go, was going to send it back but I'll persevere
Nah, it's the firmware even the top guys like DaiHai were having calibration issue with this same printer. He ended up using his own version of 1.1.9 but didn't show how he did it.
hi Chris
need help
i have set up step up everything the way you showed in the video and now having issues with the two hotend fans are not working or spining when printing
uesing Marlin and the latest Arduino 1.8.10
"Configuration_adv.h":
/**
* Controller Fan
* To cool down the stepper drivers and MOSFETs.
*
* The fan will turn on automatically whenever any stepper is enabled
* and turn off after a set period after all steppers are turned off.
*/
//#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN
#if ENABLED(USE_CONTROLLER_FAN)
#define CONTROLLERFAN_PIN r1 // Set a custom pin for the controller fan
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SECS 60 // Duration in seconds for the fan to run after all motors are disabled
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED 255 // 255 == full speed
#endif
// When first starting the main fan, run it at full speed for the
// given number of milliseconds. This gets the fan spinning reliably
// before setting a PWM value. (Does not work with software PWM for fan on Sanguinololu)
//#define FAN_KICKSTART_TIME 100
/**
* PWM Fan Scaling
*
* Define the min/max speeds for PWM fans (as set with M106).
*
* With these options the M106 0-255 value range is scaled to a subset
* to ensure that the fan has enough power to spin, or to run lower
* current fans with higher current. (e.g., 5V/12V fans with 12V/24V)
* Value 0 always turns off the fan.
*
* Define one or both of these to override the default 0-255 range.
*/
//#define FAN_MIN_PWM 50
//#define FAN_MAX_PWM 128
// @section extruder
/**
* Extruder cooling fans
*
* Extruder auto fans automatically turn on when their extruders'
* temperatures go above EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE.
*
* Your board's pins file specifies the recommended pins. Override those here
* or set to -1 to disable completely.
*
* Multiple extruders can be assigned to the same pin in which case
* the fan will turn on when any selected extruder is above the threshold.
*/
#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define E4_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 50
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255 // 225 == full speed
------------ ------------- ------------- ------------- ----------- -------------- ------------ ----------- ---------- ---------- ----------- ---------- ------------ -----------
---------- ----------- ----------- - ---------- ---------- -------- ---------- - - --------
i have seen this but not shor what way is is best as well
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2807847
Summary
This is a minimal fan mounting bracket for the Trigorilla Mainboard on the Anycubic Linear Kossel. I made this as a simple way to mount a 40mm radial blower fan to cool my TMC2100 stepper drivers (not wanting to print a fully enclosed tunnel, because I already have a panel between the hot bed and PCB). The fan is attached by driving a 3mm screw directly into the bracket (cutting its own thread). The bracket is attached to the PCB with one M3 screw and nut.
Here's an example of the fan type:
amzn.eu/ap3vHnY
I connected the fan to the unused FAN1 connector on the Trigorilla board, which is controlled by PIN 7 of the controller board. I enabled this by making the following changes in Marlin "Configuration_adv.h":
#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN
#if ENABLED(USE_CONTROLLER_FAN)
#define CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN 7 // FAN1 is Pin 7 on Trigorilla Board
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SECS 60 // Duration in seconds to run after motors disabled
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED 255 // 255 == full speed
#endif
This works really nicely as the fan switches on automatically when the stepper drivers are enabled, and runs for another 60 seconds after they are turned off.
It took me a while to get the TMC2100 drivers working well. In an attempt to make it use spreadCycle mode, I started by cutting off the CFG1-3 pins and bridging CFG1 to GND with a wire. It turns out this doesn't have any effect on the particular TMC2100 driver I'm using. The drivers were still in stealthChop and kept missing steps and skewing layers, no matter which Vref I used. Eventually I discovered there are two tiny solder pads under the board which need to be bridged to connect CFG1 to GND and enable spreadCycle mode. Now it finally works well...
Hey Dee, which Trigorilla board do you have? There is a 1.3 and a 1.4
@@ChrisRiley version Trigorilla 1.4.
it's mainly autotemp is not working but i can set the fan speeds on the printer screen manually but wold to have the fans running auto
@@DeeFPV Hey Dee, I got your email.
Everything is working great, except no matter what I do my extruder refuses to even turn. Any idea what that could be?
If you nozzle is heated and it still doesn't turn it's probably a bad stepper driver. Grab a cheap a4988 and try swapping it, or swapping one of the other ones to see if that resolves the issue.
@@ChrisRiley I swapped one of the spare stepper drivers, and nothing. I tried a known working motor and still nothing. Would turning one of the screws make a difference? If I did everything pretty much identical to you, is it another bad board?
@@macsogandares8383 Try moving the extruder cable to X or one of the others and make a movement, does that work?
@@ChrisRiley Nope. I swapped the drivers again, and tried with a known working extruder motor. It worked great, but I need this motor for my other machine. The extruder motor that I have here is a bit bigger, would I need to tune the stepper drivers? When I send an extrude command, with this motor it moves (although it sounds more like a jump) but then it won't move at all unless I reboot the machine.
@@macsogandares8383 Yeah, it could be voltage, check the driver with a multi meter. I usually set them around .8-.9.
Let’s just hope it works for me
Give it a try and let us know.
So I’ve done the firmware did the delta and bed leveling but when I try to print something it heats to target temp goes past it and cools down about 10c and doesn’t print
@@biamarkthepwong1486 Wow, that sounds like the board is having some issues.
you should try repetier firmware 1.0.3
I have thought about it, maybe I will.
@@ChrisRiley i also have an anycubic kossel mini and repetier is doing a fantastic job. And my probe is a micro switch mounted on a 3d printed part that attaches on the heatblock.
Using repetier hoat to measure the bed, i have 0.05 deviation across the 200mm glass bed
Nice! I guess I need to look into it then.
please mention that it takes 5 iterations! i thought something was wrong!
Oh, I thought I said that, yeah it does take a couple of passes.
@@ChrisRiley Found this comment as it started #5. Crossing my fingers - stock firmware was garbage and upgraded beta firmware still didn't make good 1st layers
@@modrows11 I should have mentioned it took a while. :)
i can't make it work on mini Kossel
What part doesn't work? Does it read the sensor when homing?
when it homes it comes down some centimeters it doesn't stay at the top, and after the calibration it go down passing the surface of the impression plate @@ChrisRiley
@@Costudioca It should come down some, that is safe home. If it goes past you need to readjust your z offset. Make sure you clear eeprom with m502 then m500.
Ho I see, the problem is I can't conecte to pronterface @@ChrisRiley
@@Costudioca Oh, you can't connect up at all? What error does it throw?
Can’t locate some of the uncomment areas your referencing here..
Are you using stock Marlin 1.1.9 from the site, or anycubic Marlin?
@@ChrisRiley Stock, while poking around the config files I did see a section for resume on power loss though
Don't forget the thin film and piezo that also are zero offset, for example I have a design at myminifactory for this printer www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-anycubic-kossel-piezo-hotend-probe-54177
Delta auto calibrate should be sufficient, there shouldn't be necessary with bed leveling.... the leveling will strain the mega so that you get micro pauses..
Keep up the good work
I really want to setup and test one of these. I got to get a hold of one.
mine just keeps hitting the z axis
You mean it's hitting the Z tower?
@@ChrisRiley yeah, when homing it always crash
Check you endstops with the M119 command. Sounds like one isn't triggered.
@@ChrisRiley Reporting endstop status
x_max: TRIGGERED
y_max: TRIGGERED
z_min: open
z_max: open
im confused why is it like this? is it a faulty switch? im new to this stuff
thanks btw man
@@ChrisRiley ok im confused now why is zmax not triggering when i check the switch its perfectly fine
Firmware from AnyCubic.
m.anycubic3d.com/support/show/594034.html
My Delta menu goes Delta Settings, Auto home...damn 😔
Are you on 1.1.9?
@@ChrisRiley yeah, I just grabbed files from your link. Before I did this, I had used a link on Thingiverse and was on 1.0.8 I think... I could auto level with the modified endstop I have on the zmin...but I couldn't set the offset after leveling was complete (didn't know how anyway)
@@Nocturnal160 Nice, well hopefully that levels it up.
@@ChrisRiley oh no, I meant my first comment was after grabbing your files. Interface is different, but I can't level now
Oh, that's no good! Let me know what I can do to help sort it out.
now get marlin running on a Anycubic Predator.
Working on it!
Hey Chris. Big fan. Check out my video on calibrating a printer with an offset probe. Crazy but works
Thanks man! I will check it out.
Not my work, just sharing for people who don't want to spend $30
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1976680
Thanks for the link!
Im sure you know what your doing, but as a tutorial, your going way to fast and using terms that a lot of us have no frucking idea what your talking about I guess Ill go over it slower and slower, ,
I hear ya, but you can imagine as a content creator it's really hard to judge how fast or slow I need to go on certain topics. If there are topics you would like to see more info on, please feel free to leave them in the comments.
@@ChrisRiley all I am trying to do is load a new firmware to my kossel, your throwing around terms , flying through pages,, I just gave up, is this the only way to do this?? is there any way I can just re load the firmware, to my new printer, as I just finished assembling it and of course, nothing works, shows question marks on the position of the x y z axis,, Or,, how about I just send you my card from my printer, and you load it for me,,,,lol,, Ill take care of your time,,,
You really shouldn't need to reload your firmware. Can you not print or do you just need auto leveling? Is it an Anycubic printer?
@@ChrisRiley I straightened it out,, thanks end stop micro switches were not plugged into the correct ports
hi sorry that I say that your guide is really bad, everything you print will always be too big or too small. Look at why g29 eats poorly at delta. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3012395
This is G29 vs g33 correct? Is that what you are talking about?
Yes. Sorry for my Bad English