How to level your delta printer bed - Anycubic Kossel Delta
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this one I show you how I level my delta printer. I hope this helps you with your delta.
00:00 Intro
01:06 Marlin Config
01:49 Pronterface Config
04:06 Print head Leveling
06:23 Setting Offset
07:51 Setting the Radius
11:33 Conclusion
Circle model, I scaled it to 260%
www.thingiverse.com/thing:182102
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On the newest version of the Anycubic firmware, adjust the height of the printer with MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS.
How do we do that? I can't find the height when I type M503 to check the settings.
Also, changing the z offset doesn't do anything and i don't understand why
Please help
Can you post your M503 output? Most of the time when you can't change Z offset, its because EEPROM is enabled. You can comment it out in Marlin to avoid this, or run a M502 to restore defaults, then M500 to store them. This will update your eeprom with your Marlin changes. Also, check out this newer version of Marlin, I have tuned this one for the Anycubic Kossel. Check out this post, www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-kossel/forums/general/topic:25027
HERE IT IS:
SENDING:M503
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z80.00 E96.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z200.00 E200.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E3000
echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel
echo: M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T1500.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X5.00 Y5.00 Z5.00 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm)
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
Auto Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S1
echo:Endstop adjustment (mm):
echo: M666 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Delta settings: L=diagonal_rod, R=radius, S=segments_per_second, ABC=diagonal_rod_trim_tower_[123]
echo: M665 L218.00 R98.40 S80.00 A0.00 B0.00 C0.00
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H180 B70 F0
M145 S1 H240 B110 F0
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 D3.00
echo: M200 D0
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo: M851 Z-18.26
I'm new to this. When I uploaded marlin I lost the auto level feature in the printer. The problem is that auto level is not precise and is about 2-3mm away from the bed. So what do you think I should do?
I would try to manual level first. If you can get that working you can circle back with auto level later. What version of Marlin is this? My guess is it must be pre 1.1.1. Is this the Anycubic Kossel Delta pulley version? I would load this code up first than start from there. www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-kossel/forums/general/topic:25027
I'm not sure which marlin, I'm using the firmware provided by Anycubic. I've been contacting them for over a week to help with this issue and now I lost hope.
Yes this is the Anycubic Kossel Delta pulley upgraded version. It came with a probe module and a heated bed.
Thank you for your help, I'm going to try it now
Yes, I agree with Ricardo. The advice about changing the radius while you're watching it print really is incredibly helpful. It has taken me months but I finally have my delta working properly and printing great and much of that success is thanks to you, sir. I really appreciate your help.
That's awesome, glad I could help you.
The radius advice saved my day, the printer is now finally perfectly aligned, thank you ;)
Awesome, glad it helped.
I followed your instructions with Marlin 1.1.9 and my Anycubic Kossel and got the best results of all I have followed on TH-cam. Thank you.
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
Hi Chris, I'm in the process of rebuilding my FLSUN delta kossel and this vid is amazing.
Thanks
Awesome! Glad it helped you out!
You're a LIFE SAVER!!!
Thank you so much. This helped me fix my firmware after i updated and lost the auto leveling feature.
Awesome, glad it worked out.
You, good sir, are an absolute legend! :) I've at least got a chance of printing something substantial on my kossell now, Cheers. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Ha, nice! Glad it worked out. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you as well.
Seriously, you're a deltabot life saver :) it was probably a few profanities away from being thrown out the window.. Have gone from being able to print only coin sized diameters to.. Currently on hour six of a 100mm diameter hollow cylinder (pot/lamp shade) by following this vid.. Awesome!
thanks cuz ....... I have been junking out on polyjet vids....... pretty much the same difference in the inkjets we used to use...... setting up the heads and calibrating the jets ...... ahhhhh the memories
Brilliant Thanks I did forgett to tighten those when I cought a jam the last time the printer back working now!!
Nice!
Wow! Such informative video! I did not know that you can store parameters in printer and create buttons in printrun.
Thanks for watching!
Will be sitting down with this video and my delta next month after the holidays. Thanks for that.
Awesome!
Really glad Fun king introduced me to your stuff. Great work.
Sonic Alchemy: A maker space Nice work fun king!
great content! They're very informative and help a lot seriously thanks keep it up
Thanks! Glad it's helpful.
Once again, thank you Chris. I just bought a Monoprice Mini Delta, my first delta printer. There is a facebook group with docs to improve it but all the things they do seem way complicated. If I "manually" level the bed with the M666, I will remove the G29 command in my start gcode in order to not use the "auto-leveling". I will also set the radius.
You bet! Glad it helped you.
Thanks a lot Chris Riley, this was very helpful!
Great! Thanks for the comment!
OMG this is exactly what I needed! THANK YOU!
You are very welcome!
Really good guide! Thanks a lot - works like a charm
Thanks! Glad it worked!
Thank you! This worked where their Automatic Bed Leveling Module failed, again and again. I'd like to link to this video from my review of the AnyCubic Kossel when it's done.
Thanks again!
Da Hai Zhu Glad it helped, please do!
Love this video. It answered so many open question I had after watching other tutorials.
The result that came to show on my printbed qualifies as "first layer porn". Thank you so much.
Nice! I am glad it helped you.
Great effort and a lot of help. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! This works perfect!
You are very welcome!
nice work chris. just noted that my version of marlin (folgertech) lacks m-code functionality, but i'll work thru that and use this method to improve the calibration of my delta. thanks much
Thanks for the comment, really? Folder-tech doesn't use Marlin? I don't have a Folger-tech, but I know I guy who does. That's interesting.
Thank you! It helped me a lot!
b3bs You are very welcome. Glad it worked out for you.
You are awesome! quick question though, the circle looks good except for one side is "thinner" than the others. any thoughts?
Hey thanks! You mean the one in the video or the one you printed? The one in the video had so adhesion issues where I was adjusting it that might be what you're seeing.
uh huh.....yeah......ok ......yupp yupp....... at least I understood what kind of printer it was and kind of figured out when you were finished .... all and all looked good to me...... I still love that style of printer
Yeah, that's a lot of info all at once. Delta's are really cool, but some what challenging at times.
Hey @Chris Riley. My delta has a auto level but most of the time when I action the command the head would sometimes crash in to the bed and also scrape against the pulleys if that makes scene?
Hey Derek, I have had the same issue with auto leveling on deltas. What commands are you using to trigger the sequence?
BIG THANKS CHRIS !!!
You are very welcome. Glad it worked out for you.
at z10 mine is still a good 10 cm above the plate how do i fix this??
Desde Colombia, olle gracias por el video; me aclaraste una duda que tenia hacia tiempo, pues fabrique mi propia Delta Rostock (Casera, estructura metalica, de tornillos milimetricos "Sin poleas", madera) mejorada a husillos de 4 hilos, piezas en PLA, brazos en aluminio y un gran etc., a lo cual la calibrava algo parecido, pero con esta explicacion me sirvio bastante y mejoro su nivelación.
Estoy intrigada, me encantan proyectos como este! Estoy felíz de ayudar. ¡Gracias por compartir!
God this is an informative video !
Great!
hey just a question about those adjustment screws on the top of those rod holders
Im having a problem with this exact same printer when I first set it up it used to print perfect now after a few month my prints have an angle to them Im wondering if my prints are coming out slanted because those screws need adjustments? my printer is anycubic kossel plus even though it has auto level Im still getting this problem??
Hmmm, strange, angled in what way? I don't think its the endstop screws, if I had to guess, it is something lose on the effector.
Perfect!!!
Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris. I wonder if you can help me. My problem is with my Anycubic Kossel pulley version. I have levelled the bed pretty much spot on using your video.Iv'e just installed Marlin 1.1.8 and when it print now the print head scrapes across the previous layer without lifting while moving to the next layer. Do you know if there is anything in Marlin that I can alter to prevent this happening. the prints come out ok , but sometimes they actually get knocked over mid print. Any help would be gratefully received.
Sounds like maybe the radius is just a touch off. You might try enabling z-lift in the slicer to see if that helps.
currently using the most current anycubic firmware and the M665 command does seem to change anything, and the M503 command doesn't show an H value in it's list.
Ryan Young I found this out while helping a few others with there firmware. Check out this post, www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-kossel/forums/general/topic:25027 I put a link to a tuned version of Marin 1.1.6 for the pulley version of this printer. You can give that a try, you will have to adjust the height for your printer. In the mean time, I will see if I can find some 1.1.0r8 commands.
Chris, I used your tower commands and it works for towers x and z but not for y. I double check all input already. When I execute the command for Y it does not go all the way down to the bed but only goes half way. Only happens on Y. Any advice is appreciated.
The only time I remember seeing that it when that endstop was just a bit higher than the others.
thank you!
Thank you for watching!
do you have a guide for how the paper should feel under the extruder?
No guide, but you can use feeler gauge. That should help.
Hey, I just noticed that I can't seem to enter commands onto the printer through my pronterface(app) . But I can do it using pronterface in the print window type with Cura, is there some settings within proterface so I can control it directly ?
Just make sure another application, like Cura, isn't running at the same time as Pronterface.
WHEN I PUT THE COMAND M665 H333.7 HE DOESON´T SAVE THAT DATA AFTER PUT THE M503
WHY?
You need to run the M502 then the M500 to save it.
Thank you so much I was getting so mad.
You are very welcome!
Thanks!!!
You bet! Glad it helps.
I have the same printer, a Anycubic Kossel but when changing the radius nothing changes on my print. Any help?
You might have something stuck in eeprom. Try doing a M502 then an M500 to clear it out.
I'm at around the 4:00 mark, what if my printer didnt come with coordinated for in front ofthe towers? It's not an Anycubic Kossell, but everything else has worked dandy so far.
Then assignment of a X Y Z for the tower doesn't matter much to the printer, but it does make things a little easier to troubleshoot. I would just decide which tower is which and make sure that motor cable goes to that tower, just to clear up any confusion. As far as coordinates, I just use something like Pronterface to move the print head in front of each tower then do a M114 to check where its at and write it down to use on my macros.
When I use the G28 command the printer moves to the back left very fast and keeps going that way until I unplug it. I also just have white squares on my display. It works with the software downloaded from anycubic though. Any thoughts?
+Drew Hardy Hmmmm, sounds like the boards isn't happy at all. Double check your motor port connections are correct. Try a M6 1 and see one on the motors moves 1mm.
almost all good, but every time i adjust the towers to get to 0.0, it lowers my center down to -0.1, example :
Center is perfect at 0.0, and x,y,z towers at hitting paper at .1, i adjust the screw , rehome, and now x,y,z are perfect at 0.0, but the center is now -0.1,
how to fix this
It's all about the radius, try lowering it or raise it a little.
Hi Chris. Me again. Having problems leveling the bed. After your instructions: The nozzle is .2mm off the bed next to the three towers. That's good. But when I go to print, the nozzle almost scrapes the bed next to the X tower and is very high off the bed next to the Y tower. So nothing sticks well near the Y tower. The Z tower is fine.
I would think that if its a concave/convex issue, it would be high or low all around.
And ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks!
What is you radius set at? That is usually the issue I see when this happens.
Chris Riley : delta_radius = 98.7
Delta_printable_radius = 90.0
Delta_diagonal_rod = 218
Around 98 should be close. I would run through it again and check everything. Make sure there is nothing in eeprom that is messing you up.
When entering G28 the print head moves up to the endstops and after reaching them, moves down to aprox. the middle of the Z-Axis.
In Configuration.h I see #define DELTA_HEIGHT 300.00 // (mm) Get this value from G33 auto calibrate
Using Marlin 2.0
For some reason, our channel got a bunch of comments recently that are over a year old. I hope you got your issue solved. We didn't purposely ignore you. Thanks for watching!
Hello Chris, sorry but I think is the other way around, if the paper is loose you should unscrew the bolt so theres less path , and if the paper is to tight then you have to screw it a little bit so there is more path . Please correct me if I am wrong
I'll have to go back and look, I can't remember now. I will get back to you.
You are correct, loose it the nozzle is too high, tighten if it's to low.
just got a delta and so lost, any chance on a cheat sheet for code? this really helps but gets overwhelming. truly appreciate your work, thanks
Sure man, what do you need to know? I can try to help you out.
@@ChrisRileyRiley, my son picked it up for me, will have it in my little hands this weekend. Truly would appreciate any help, know it got some problems. Also, have an Anet A 8 on its way lots of grandkids lol
Geeetech G2S Pro 3D Printer is the delta, haven't got to play with anything yet.
@@bigrickshaberdashery2759 I will take a look at that one. There might be some code out there for it that works better.
Thanks
but i have a big problem I sit the bed but when I print there are some places in the bed not touch by the print tool and it move high in some places in the bed please help me how can i fix it
First thing I would check is make sure all your smooth rods are the same length and your endstop mounts are all level and tight.
I cheked all of these and also i changed the bed and still the same problem i even changed the voltage and there is not diffrence
Do you have email or whatsapp that can i communicate with you and sendyou short vedio show the problem ? Because i tried all things and still the same problem
You're awesome Chris. Thank you.
Hey, Hope it helps!
Can I please have help, and thank you for video. So, Ive been following your steps, i started the print in pronter face like you did , now the extruder feeder is spinning way to fast and stripping filament. Thanks have a good day
First off lets get something out of the way...Is that you in the hotdog suit? If it is, awesome...Ha. Now to your printer. My first thought is your Extruder steps got set way to high. If you made any changes in Marlin, go back and check #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 80, 100 } in configuration.h the last number is the extruder or send a M503 command and look for this line. M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00 Your E should probably be somewhere around 100. You might have something off in eeprom as well, do M502 then M500 to get back to Marlin default settings.
Hey sorry just saw this now hahaha, thanks a lot for reply, and sadly it is not me hahaha
Darn! :)
Chris Riley hahaha, I'm brand new to 3d printing, I'm pretty good with computers but this is brand new to me haha
PLEASE HELP SOMEONE **
I bought my kossel about a month ago. it's my first 3d printer, Iv been trying to level the bed, but no luck so far. Please if you know the solution, I would love to know thanx
My centre is higher than all the towers for ex.
if I make my z hight 327.7 the centre is perfect but the towers are too low
however, if I lowered my z high to 327.3 all the Towers are perfect but then the centre is too high
PLEAS CAN SOMEONE HELP ME
S3ODG Its the radius setting. What is your radius at now? It should probably be around 97-98 for this printer. The video will show you how to change it.
Hi Chris. What do i do if my firmware doesnt show delta height after the M503 command? ">>> m503
SENDING:M503
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z80.00 E96.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X102.00 Y200.00 Z200.00 E200.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E3000
echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel
echo: M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm)
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Endstop adjustment (mm):
echo: M666 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Delta settings: L=diagonal_rod, R=radius, S=segments_per_second, ABC=diagonal_rod_trim_tower_[123]
echo: M665 L218.00 R98.40 S100.00 A0.00 B0.00 C0.00
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H180 B70 F255
M145 S1 H240 B100 F255
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 D1.75
echo: M200 D0
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo: M851 Z-3.06
>>> m114
SENDING:M114
X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:-26.30 E:0.00 Count X: 13458 Y:13458 Z:13458
My "0" is at -26.29
Do you know what version of Marlin you are running? These don't show on older versions. Not sure what version you will need, but see if your manufacture has a newer update.
How do you know to make a video of my exact issues or question a year before I have them? Thanks!!!
I made it just for you! LOL
so this is interesting.. i am running 1.1.0 rev 8 (newest as of last night) and the m665 code doesn't return an H value. for instance, in my h503 i get this: echo: M665 L218.00 R98.40 S100.00 A0.00 B0.00 C0.00 so it looks like they've made a significant change from 1.1.0 rev3 that you're running.
Interesting, I have mine running 1.1.6 right at the moment. I will take a look. I checked on the Marlin site, they currently offer 1.1.7. Or are you referring to the Anycubic version of Marlin is currently 1.1.0 rev8? If it is actually 1.1.0 rev 8 then that would be much different than current version. In this video I had 1.1.3. Thanks for the comment, I will check it out. I also posted a 1.1.6 version that works on the Kossel if you want to check it out.
www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-kossel/forums/general/topic:25027
well, i feel dumb now. yes the version i'm running is the one direct from anycubic. sorry, still fairly new to this aspect of 3d printing so i didn't know there was a difference. i'll grab your version and give it a try. thank you!
No worries, let me know if it works out for you.
worked great.. my height is different due to the adjustable heatbed i installed but the m665 code is as described and worked to adjust the config accordingly. thanks again!
MY FIRMWARE I COMPLETLY DIFRENT WERE CAN I GET THE SAME AS YOU?
I would use their source code. github.com/ANYCUBIC-3D/ANYCUBIC_Kossel_Source_Code
When I do M666 X0 Y-2 Z0 to move the Y tower down 2 mm, it doesn't show up when I do M503. Even if I do M500 after the M666 command to save it, it still doesn't show up, and it doesn't do anything.
I don't have the Marlin software, because I have had to return this printer twice already (the first time because I got marlin and everything got screwed up). So I'd prefer not to get Marlin if I didn't have to. Anything I can do here with the default firmware?
The old firmware doesn't show anything on the M503 I am afraid. Not sure when that was added, 1.1.1 maybe. I think your best bet is to adjust the endstops manually. Those changes should work with the M665 command, not sure why they are not. You might try a M502 to reset to factory then try your M665 command again.
Hey Chris, thanks for the speedy response! I did end up installing the firmware. There was no option for the height in M665. I looked through the comments here, and it looks like the Anycubic Marlin firmware does not have the "H" option. I saw that you posted firmware for the Pulley Version... I have the Linear Plus, do you have Marlin firmware for that? (The Linear Plus' arms cannot be adjusted manually, no allen wrench will fit the screws at the top of the arm).
Chris Riley Or rather, what could I do to your Pulley Version firmware to make it work with the Linear Plus? As far as I know, the only difference between the two printers is that the Linear Plus’s build plate is 230mm.
To disable z_safe_homing, I commented this out but it does not stop at endstops. It still moves below endstops. Options? Thanks.
Hey Bob, what printer? Below the endstops? Not sure what you mean.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for your reply, Kossel Linear Plus. Using Marlin 2.0. Once the Ends go up and touch the end stops it drops down about 30 - 40mm and rests there. In your video you mentioned to comment out // Z_SAFE_HOMING to make it stop at the endstops and prevent them from dropping back down. That doesn't happen on mine for what ever reason and was hoping you might know. Thanks Bob
@@ChrisRiley I found it. Comment out // - #define DELTA_HOME_TO_SAFE_ZONE - This will stop it from moving down.
@@bobross8314 oh, nice, glad you found it.
Hi, when I start a print with your new config everything seem to want to start ok, Print head come down, Printer heat up before starting print and then the head goes straight off the bed between the z and y post not hitting anything but stay there and keep extruding filament. Do any one have any idea why and how to fix?
Thanks
That almost sounds like there is something up with the SD card, like it's not getting the gcode loaded correctly. Have you tried formatting the SD card, reloading the gcode and trying again? If not, give that a try. I will try to help you if I can.
yes? I tried printing via USB with 2 different software and changing the bed dimension into those and printing from SD card (format) same result. I tried different marlin version. Do you know a website that doesn't take 3month to ship? I think im gonna try another board.
Thank you
If you want that exact board it's going to be hard to get anywhere but strait from China. You could probably swap it with an MKS ramps type pretty easy though. You would have to check them out and compare it, but it might be worth a look. www.amazon.com/KINGPRINT-Controller-Motherboard-Ramps1-4-Compatible/dp/B072ZZ3YQW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1516055099&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mks+gen+1.4&psc=1
HELLO I am getting close I have my z axis homed in at Z:-38.00 what shall I plug into the printer thing to get it to 0.00 please help ive been trying all night for thing lol
free tv So you homed, then moved down to the bed until you where about two pieces of paper away from the center. Now m114 says z -38? If so, add 38 to your delta height, if you enabled eeprom do M665 H xxx. XXX will be the new z number.
alright thank you il let u know if I can get that to work
Really we'll explained I am having kossel liner plus and it is a pain to bed level but once it is done it is a great printer
One question why 2 pice of paper instead of one
Thanks, glad it helped. I find that if you use just one piece the nozzle ends up to close. Plus if you use two it helps when you are checking it over and over, the paper tends to get dented.
Chris Riley
Thanks brother
Tower leveling also 2 paper ?
Im new to 3d printing and im trying to set the height on marlin but there isnt one so the hot endsays 3~7 cm above the bed
What version of Marlin are you using? Different version have different options. You should be able to search Ctrl+F for height.
Chris Riley Im using 1.1.8. I have never use arduino coding ever before so I have no idea about it
Ok, go to my about page and send me an email, I will send you some screen shots.
For everyone else, on the newest version of the Anycubic firmware, adjust the height of the printer with MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS.
Can anyone tell me how I can access the existing firmware on the primer i need to make a couple of small calibrations but all information I find online just tells me how to upload new firmware to it and not how to edit the one that’s already on it
Unfortunately, you can't. You have to recompile the software and reload the whole thing every time you need to make a change.
Chris Riley thanks for responding and man that sucks cause I never got the firmware that’s on it from where I bought it. Oh well guess I’ll just download the latest firmware from Anycubic and start over. Lucky for me though you made this great tutorial/Video that’s gonna help me a lot XD
The Anycubic version should be pretty close to what you need. Let me know if you run into issue I will try to help out.
Chris Riley thanks I really appreciate it right now what I really need help with is getting the latest firmware for the Kossel Linear Plus upgrade version that has a heated bed and auto leveling I contacted Anycubic to see if they can send it to me but if you know where I can find one that would be awesome and probably faster lol
Having a little trouble. Set centre to Z0 but when I set the towers to Z0 the centre is over 1mm low. What happens now?
So if I remember correctly, this concave that you are seeing is caused by your radius setting being way to high. Do you have the Anycubuc Kossel? I good radius setting to start with is around 97.5. What is your current radius setting. It should show in the M503 command.
Hi. It's the Anycubic Kossel pulley version. I set everything as you described and checked the Z0 at the centre and the print head was hitting the bed by about 1.5mm. Radius is at 105.2..
Ok, yeah, that seems pretty high. Bring it down some and give it another try. After you get somewhat close you can fine tune it with a test print.
Thanks , Ill give that a try. Great advice by the way. Cheers.
hI.sORRY ABOUT THIS BUT ALTERING THE RADIUS ISNT MAKING ANY DIFFERENCE.
Got it down to 99mm now and still the same as at 105.5.
just curios, why not use the auto-level? thanks!
Zoster Are you talking about the feature in the menu without the sensor? If so, on my printer this options makes the printer go crazy and crash into things. They might have improved it on later models.
hey! i'm referring to the feature that uses a sensor
Cool, that is on my list of projects to get to for sure.
Can all these steps be skipped if I have a inductive sensor?
Max For the most part, yes. You might have to still set the height. Or offset.
Chris Riley Oke, thanks for the info man! Greetings from Holland!
Sorry I meant the one I printed. It has a thin edge one one side. I printed a larger model of something else larger. It’s still uneven. I get good plastic laid down on one side and the other side barely has any laid down on the first pass. I’n gonna go through the video one more time. It’s a flsun delta xl. I think the radius is what I’m messing up.
Think i found it, end stops were loose. I kept g33 p1'ing and would get different heights. Used a nickel to space and wedge'em up top and re-ran the tower calibration. and got a nice circle right off. You Sir are a true friend of the crown!!!
I had the same issue on mine at first. I had to really lock down the endstop. I also lowered the feed rate on homing a little to keep it from crashing so hard into it. Glad you got it fix!
Thanks its almost 100%. I still think i have a leveling issue. when it prints the "ring" around whatever I'm printing if its larger than 6in in diameter it gets real translucent like the print head is too close in one area, the rest is perfect. When i did the calibration from the video, i did NOT change the smooth rod offset. I had it dialed in i thought and did nt wanna screw it up. Any thoughts?
Your radius is probably off ever so slightly. Try reducing your smooth rod length just a little, try .1 or .2 and see if it helps.
that was it! Thanks So much!! Bought some fil from you amazon store !!
hi chris, i tried to do level but i have strange behavior, on tower 1 it goes to tower 3 and so on, that can be because i make mistake connecting endstops? motors are correctly corrected.. and M666 command does not make correction.. ouch
So the coordinates I show don't move it in the same direction as in the video? Are you using the stock firmware? If the motors are correct I am not sure what could cause that.
Chris Riley Yes my left is x right is y and front is z axis. Is it Right? I got your 1.1.6
It really shouldn't matter which way you hook up the motors, it would be the same out come. This is how mine is currently setup. I think its the same now as it was in the video, but my stuff gets changed a lot so it might not be. If you want to use the same commands I do, you will probably need to change your motor and endstop cables to be like this.
i.imgur.com/MZKjC9r.jpg
Will try this way, strange since I installed your firmware months ago always get printed small stuff for RC quads and puff one day needed to level again.. will take a free morning next days to get outta of this trouble... And invert x and y
Ok, give it a try and let me know how it turns out.
Dude... what command gives you all the info that shows what level H is? You completely jump past it.
Hello, I did? About the only way to get this info is M503. M503 shows a ton of stuff and it's kind of messy, but all the info you need is in there.
How do you get the firmware?
I should also note how do I install firmware into my 3d printer.
Take a look at this doc:
goo.gl/afrKpj
Chris Riley Thanks buddy
You are welcome, anytime.
Chris Riley also what do I do if it is not letting me upload. Like if it says something about an arduino board
thanks allot for this video i couldn't for my life get my printer leveled and with the help of your video and these printbed holders www.thingiverse.com/thing:3875281 i got it perfectly level
Awesome, I am glad it helped you.
Lol, I just realized that I have some WICKED A.D.D.! Anyone have the Cliff Notes on this? 😂🤣 This calibration process is monotonous AF. I think I'd have more fun tearing my toe nails off...smh 🙁
Great video by the way very very helpful. Ty!
Lol, yes the delta level process is in no way a fun one. This was the quickest I could find to make the process. I do feel your pain, I am currently working on a leveling sensor setup to see if that will make the process any easier. Thanks for watching, hang in there. ;)
- what is marlin and where do I get it?
- what are the steps involved in running it?
- does this work for delta printers other than yours and if not can can I tell if mine will?
- Will I fuck my printer buy doing something wrong in this software
- etc etc etc etc etc please rename this video to how to level X delta printer if you already know how to do it.
Zim Zimmerman
First two questions, check links in description of this video as well
th-cam.com/video/0pt_b2ZizQM/w-d-xo.html
I works on most 3D printer boards, the boards.h can help you figure that out. That includes deltas as well.
Yes, you can render your printer inoperable if you don't know what you're doing.