Hey Chris, great walk-through. Despite having done all the upgrades I've done so far, I've never even connected my filament sensor yet. Doh! Thanks for the reminder. I'll be going through this video again to make sure it's all set up correctly and testing. It will have to wait till later in the week though, got work to do, the kind that pays for my toys :-)
Nice video again, Chris! I really like how you manage to break down a complex topic. Sadly, I've failed to get the "auto load" option working on my machines, as the filament gets stuck when entering the heat-break.
Thanks man! I have ran into that issue as well. It works well on the Creality machines because the PTFE tube is all one piece. Not so much on the separate tube inside the barrel.
Thanks for the quick reply! I didn't really think about that before. So the CR-10 doesn't have a heat-sink with separate PTFE tube? So you basically stick the bowden tube all the way thru to the nozzle? (This lead to regular clogs on my TronXY X1, so I changed the hot-end assembly...)
Cool, thanks for letting me know! Obviously, I didn't think about that either... Anyways, I think it's time for me to work on my printers again instead of "just" printing! Thanks for making these videos, they show me the countless opportunities left to explore in this field.
Hi ;) It works on my ender 3, however, I wan't to manually removes the filament. I set FILAMENT_CHANGE_(SLOW/FAST_LOAD and UNLOAD_LENGTH) to 0, but when it detects run out of filament, it parks and then unload the filament :( then it force the filament trought the sensor and broke it.... My sensor is one-way, if the filament enter from the other side, it can broke the switch inside. That's why I wan't manually remove filament... I'm using TH3D U1.R2.9b... What I'm doing wrong? :)
Forgive me if you've covered this (I'm a little out of my depth I think). I recently installed the Ender 3 v2 filament runout sensor on my Creality CR10s. The printer already had a filament sensor, but it was rather faulty, so I replaced it by installing the new sensor. Only, when I plug it in with the wires/plug of my printer, it's reading the signal *backwards*. That is, when the filament is in and the light is blue on the sensor, the LED screen on the printer says "Err: change filament" and when I pull the filament OUT (depressing the lever and button within the sensor, the blue light going off), the printer believes it has filament and begins heating up. Any suggestions? Would this be fixed with a firmware update? (which one?) or should I try flipping some wires...?
I'm not sure what firmware you are running, but to get that sensor to work you would have to make some changes. You need to flip the logic. If you don't have a copy of the firmware already, this could take a lot of work to create a new version. This video should give you an idea of the work involved. th-cam.com/video/7i7PnBZ6cnM/w-d-xo.html
Hey Chris! Been enjoying your videos. Ive had a Cr-10 v1 with the Melzi board for quite a while now. I have a BLtouch installed on it with TH3d unified firmware. Am I understanding you right here, that I can't install a runout sensor with the BLtouch installed? Or is there a way around that?
Hi Chris, really good video, I was able to setup the run out sensor as guided in your video. I have only one issue, I get continuous beeping sound when filament runs out. The beeping won't stop until I insert another filament. Is there a way to stop that beeping or set the time of beeping ?
Thank you for this video. They are always very informative. I wonder though, is there an option to have the temperature of the hot end drop once the sensor has been triggered? This would be very helpful for overnight prints without the worry of having the hot end parked at full temp for several hours.
I was wrong, I just found this. This will turn the hotend off on park. #define PAUSE_PARK_NOZZLE_TIMEOUT 45 // (seconds) Time limit before the nozzle is turned off for safety.
Thanks! With this config, yes, it's one or the other. This config rides on the beeper pin. There is an open pin 29, but I am not sure if it is exposed. It would take another board to use both, if it's even possible.
i seem to be having the exact same question right now. I think i should just upgrade to a proper board...but what options i should consider? if 50$ is the limit on the board, and preferably uses marlin? mks? I hate the limitatios that i run to all the time, be it the low amount of sram on melzi board of the lack of connectors.
@@ChrisRiley is this correct? ADDING A FILIMENT SENSOR: CONFIGURATION.H: Uncomment: #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR Uncomment: #define NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE CONFIGURATION_ADV.H: Uncomment: #define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE Change To length of my boden tube: #define FILAMENT_CHANGE_UNLOAD_LENGTH
Great Video as always. Thanks a lot for this effort. I only have one problem with these runout sensors. I checked all my spools an all of them have the end of the filament wedged on the role. Doesn't that cause problems when running to the end because the filament would stopped by the spool, perhaps being grinded by the extruder and never actually trigger the switch?
Thanks! I have had mixed results on that. Some seem to work just fine, but I have had other be hung up so bad it caused the printer to miss some steps, It would be nice to find a filament that has resolved this issue.
I need a run out sensor for the Tevo Flash. Any chance you might do that one, one day. Also I just added a linear rail to the bed of the Flash and tool bins. You can find the vid's if interested on my channel.
ok, I have done it twice and gotten the same thing both times. it will run the m600 code but the switch seems to send it into filament change whether it has filament in or not (both send it to the change filament commands)... disabling for now
@@ChrisRiley maybe. I used a mashup of your m600 and cr10 runout videos and also watched teaching techs videos on the same things but it was ender 3 I believe. would the Pins_melzi_creality step be correct still with the ender 5?
Hey@@deanbicking1296 I think I might be able to help since I ran into the same issue on my CR-10. Since the Filament Sensor is connected to Pin 27, which is the default Pin for the buzzer, every time I wanted to start a print via the printer directly, the switch got triggered, so by the time the printer got up to temperature, M600 already started running. My solution is to fully disable the buzzer and that solved the problem for me. What I did in Marlin Firmware: Under configuration.h search for "speaker" There you will find #define SPEAKER and change it to //#define SPEAKER to disable it. Under your board pin layout (for CR-10: pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h) add an extra line where it says: #define LCD_SDSS 31 // Smart Controller SD card reader (rather than the Melzi) #define LCD_PINS_RS 28 // ST9720 CS #define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17 // ST9720 DAT #define LCD_PINS_D4 30 // ST9720 CLK #define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 27 // Uses Beeper/LED Pin Pulled to GND add: #define BEEPER_PIN -1 This disables the beeper completely and doesnt trigger the filament runout sensor, it now works for me as intended in the first place, only had to invert the logic of the sensor in the end. Please give some feedback if it worked so others can try this aswell.
Hey Chris really nice job!! Can you answer me this, I purchased this (www.ebay.ca/i/112698656755?chn=ps&dispItem=1) filament run out sensor and was wondering can I install this sensor to my cr10 without having to install marlin firmware? Like for instance, if you click on "Read seller's description" on the sellers page of this sensor there are 2 explanations for installing the sensor on 2 different motherboards. I'm one person that is not the best at doing such things (electrical handy capable I am not, lol) unless I actually have someone who knows how to do it, show me and I can't find any video on TH-cam showing how this is done. Would you be able to show how this might be done with using this exact sensor and using the instructions provided by the sellers description on an original first gen cr10 motherboard? If you're able to do this it would be very much appreciated and also thank you in advance!!!
Unfortunately, there is no way to tell if a printers firmware can support a runout sensor. Most of the time, if it can, it will come with one. Flashing the firmware is really the only way to make sure it is done right.
Another cool Tutorial ! Great work Chris ! Happy Printing !
Thanks Ron!
Thanks for the videos, I just upgraded to marlin and now going to put a sensor on my cr-10.
Glad I could help! An update on this tomorrow.
Great video Chris, it is so helpful to have a runout sensor!
Thanks Ali! They are a huge help.
Hey Chris, great walk-through. Despite having done all the upgrades I've done so far, I've never even connected my filament sensor yet. Doh! Thanks for the reminder. I'll be going through this video again to make sure it's all set up correctly and testing. It will have to wait till later in the week though, got work to do, the kind that pays for my toys :-)
Ha! Yeah, I only got for the runout when I have a catastrophe. Then I realize I should have had it a lot sooner.
I love this channel. You have great content Chris!
Glad you enjoy it! Thank you
Great Video as always!
Thanks Mike!
Nice video again, Chris!
I really like how you manage to break down a complex topic.
Sadly, I've failed to get the "auto load" option working on my machines, as the filament gets stuck when entering the heat-break.
Thanks man! I have ran into that issue as well. It works well on the Creality machines because the PTFE tube is all one piece. Not so much on the separate tube inside the barrel.
Thanks for the quick reply!
I didn't really think about that before. So the CR-10 doesn't have a heat-sink with separate PTFE tube? So you basically stick the bowden tube all the way thru to the nozzle?
(This lead to regular clogs on my TronXY X1, so I changed the hot-end assembly...)
@@Caverntwo Correct, it seems to work out well. The cheaper tube tends to get burned up on the end, but swapping to cap tube lasts a lot longer.
Cool, thanks for letting me know!
Obviously, I didn't think about that either...
Anyways, I think it's time for me to work on my printers again instead of "just" printing! Thanks for making these videos, they show me the countless opportunities left to explore in this field.
I will give this a shot when my patience hasn't run out.
That is a sensor I really need.
Hi ;) It works on my ender 3, however, I wan't to manually removes the filament. I set FILAMENT_CHANGE_(SLOW/FAST_LOAD and UNLOAD_LENGTH) to 0, but when it detects run out of filament, it parks and then unload the filament :( then it force the filament trought the sensor and broke it.... My sensor is one-way, if the filament enter from the other side, it can broke the switch inside. That's why I wan't manually remove filament... I'm using TH3D U1.R2.9b... What I'm doing wrong? :)
You should be able to just comment out advanced pause all together and just use the park feature to get this to work.
Forgive me if you've covered this (I'm a little out of my depth I think). I recently installed the Ender 3 v2 filament runout sensor on my Creality CR10s. The printer already had a filament sensor, but it was rather faulty, so I replaced it by installing the new sensor. Only, when I plug it in with the wires/plug of my printer, it's reading the signal *backwards*. That is, when the filament is in and the light is blue on the sensor, the LED screen on the printer says "Err: change filament" and when I pull the filament OUT (depressing the lever and button within the sensor, the blue light going off), the printer believes it has filament and begins heating up. Any suggestions? Would this be fixed with a firmware update? (which one?) or should I try flipping some wires...?
I'm not sure what firmware you are running, but to get that sensor to work you would have to make some changes. You need to flip the logic. If you don't have a copy of the firmware already, this could take a lot of work to create a new version. This video should give you an idea of the work involved. th-cam.com/video/7i7PnBZ6cnM/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful, thanks for the tutorial!
You bet! Thanks for watching!
Hey Chris! Been enjoying your videos. Ive had a Cr-10 v1 with the Melzi board for quite a while now. I have a BLtouch installed on it with TH3d unified firmware. Am I understanding you right here, that I can't install a runout sensor with the BLtouch installed? Or is there a way around that?
Thanks Luis, unfortunately, you have to chose, there isn't enough pins available. It's either filament runout or bltouch, not both.
Hi Chris, really good video, I was able to setup the run out sensor as guided in your video. I have only one issue, I get continuous beeping sound when filament runs out. The beeping won't stop until I insert another filament. Is there a way to stop that beeping or set the time of beeping ?
Unfortunately, I don't think so. It is very annonying. If you reflash the firmware, you could turn beeper off.
Hi and thank you for the video ! Can you print and install a mount for the filament detector ?
Sure, you can install which ever one you like!
Thank you for this video. They are always very informative. I wonder though, is there an option to have the temperature of the hot end drop once the sensor has been triggered? This would be very helpful for overnight prints without the worry of having the hot end parked at full temp for several hours.
Thank you! As far as I know, there isn't an option to do that in Marlin today, but that would be a great thing to have added.
I was wrong, I just found this. This will turn the hotend off on park. #define PAUSE_PARK_NOZZLE_TIMEOUT 45 // (seconds) Time limit before the nozzle is turned off for safety.
@@ChrisRiley Awesome! I think I know what my next upgrade will be :)
Geoffrey Hart at work we have a $4k Raise3D Pro2 and it stays temped up when paused, idk if even it has the setting lol
I couldn't get this to work on Marlin 2.0 and up. Any advise?
There will be a video coming out on this tomorrow.
very helpful video
Thanks John Chris, I am a Chris John, so that's awesome!
Great video pal, I am already using that jumper board for a BLTouch so am I out of luck adding a filament run out?
Thanks! With this config, yes, it's one or the other. This config rides on the beeper pin. There is an open pin 29, but I am not sure if it is exposed. It would take another board to use both, if it's even possible.
i seem to be having the exact same question right now.
I think i should just upgrade to a proper board...but what options i should consider? if 50$ is the limit on the board, and preferably uses marlin? mks? I hate the limitatios that i run to all the time, be it the low amount of sram on melzi board of the lack of connectors.
Can you explain/show marlin settings for a Ender 3 V2? Thanks!
I get this request a lot, I guess I need to work on a build for it.
@@ChrisRiley is this correct?
ADDING A FILIMENT SENSOR:
CONFIGURATION.H:
Uncomment: #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
Uncomment: #define NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE
CONFIGURATION_ADV.H:
Uncomment: #define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE
Change To length of my boden tube: #define FILAMENT_CHANGE_UNLOAD_LENGTH
@@SoggyCashew That is correct.
Do you have to upgrade marlin to have this work?
Yes you do if you have the regular CR10.
Great Job thanks so much
No problem 👍Thank you
Well done.
Thank you!
Great Video as always. Thanks a lot for this effort.
I only have one problem with these runout sensors. I checked all my spools an all of them have the end of the filament wedged on the role. Doesn't that cause problems when running to the end because the filament would stopped by the spool, perhaps being grinded by the extruder and never actually trigger the switch?
Thanks! I have had mixed results on that. Some seem to work just fine, but I have had other be hung up so bad it caused the printer to miss some steps, It would be nice to find a filament that has resolved this issue.
I need a run out sensor for the Tevo Flash. Any chance you might do that one, one day. Also I just added a linear rail to the bed of the Flash and tool bins. You can find the vid's if interested on my channel.
I am way behind on my TH-cam vids. I saw you had some flash stuff up, I will check it. I would do one if I come across a flash for sure.
Hello Chris, your video was helpful once again! Do you know if I can have the filament sensor and the auto bed sensor installed at the same time?
Great! Unfortunately it's one or the other on this board.
Do you recommend a board we can swap in that can do both?
Have you tried the BIGTREETECH Smart Filament Sensor?
Not yet, I need to get one.
Hey Chris, thank you for the awesome video. Is this method applicable for RAMPS 1.4 with bltouch installed?
On RAMPS it's way easier. You can just use some misc pins, servo 3 is the default for the runout sensor.
Can it be work on ender 3??
Yes, if you use that break out board I show, it should work.
How can I get the pins_melzi_creality menu?
In Marlin 2.0 it's in SRC/PINS
I am doing this on an Ender 5. I have the pin 27 board. ran into some issues. running through fresh, will see how it goes
ok, I have done it twice and gotten the same thing both times. it will run the m600 code but the switch seems to send it into filament change whether it has filament in or not (both send it to the change filament commands)... disabling for now
Very strange, I wonder if you used a jumper on the pins as a test if that could help find the issue.
@@ChrisRiley maybe. I used a mashup of your m600 and cr10 runout videos and also watched teaching techs videos on the same things but it was ender 3 I believe.
would the Pins_melzi_creality step be correct still with the ender 5?
@@deanbicking1296 That's a good question, the boards might be configured differently. I don't know for sure.
Hey@@deanbicking1296 I think I might be able to help since I ran into the same issue on my CR-10. Since the Filament Sensor is connected to Pin 27, which is the default Pin for the buzzer, every time I wanted to start a print via the printer directly, the switch got triggered, so by the time the printer got up to temperature, M600 already started running.
My solution is to fully disable the buzzer and that solved the problem for me.
What I did in Marlin Firmware:
Under configuration.h search for "speaker"
There you will find #define SPEAKER and change it to //#define SPEAKER to disable it.
Under your board pin layout (for CR-10: pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h) add an extra line where it says:
#define LCD_SDSS 31 // Smart Controller SD card reader (rather than the Melzi)
#define LCD_PINS_RS 28 // ST9720 CS
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17 // ST9720 DAT
#define LCD_PINS_D4 30 // ST9720 CLK
#define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 27 // Uses Beeper/LED Pin Pulled to GND
add:
#define BEEPER_PIN -1
This disables the beeper completely and doesnt trigger the filament runout sensor, it now works for me as intended in the first place, only had to invert the logic of the sensor in the end.
Please give some feedback if it worked so others can try this aswell.
Hey, thx. :) Handy!
You bet!
thumbs up!
Thanks man!
BOSS can I upgrade for filament sensor if I have 1.1.4 board version?
With this method, I believe you can.
@@ChrisRiley ill do my best sensei
Every cool
Thanks Paul!
Hey Chris really nice job!! Can you answer me this, I purchased this (www.ebay.ca/i/112698656755?chn=ps&dispItem=1) filament run out sensor and was wondering can I install this sensor to my cr10 without having to install marlin firmware? Like for instance, if you click on "Read seller's description" on the sellers page of this sensor there are 2 explanations for installing the sensor on 2 different motherboards. I'm one person that is not the best at doing such things (electrical handy capable I am not, lol) unless I actually have someone who knows how to do it, show me and I can't find any video on TH-cam showing how this is done. Would you be able to show how this might be done with using this exact sensor and using the instructions provided by the sellers description on an original first gen cr10 motherboard? If you're able to do this it would be very much appreciated and also thank you in advance!!!
Unfortunately, there is no way to tell if a printers firmware can support a runout sensor. Most of the time, if it can, it will come with one. Flashing the firmware is really the only way to make sure it is done right.
Take a look at mine for optical endstop www.thingiverse.com/thing:4297403
👍