Very systematically done. Well done mate. I never heard people talking about the flattened tops of the orange peel but this gentleman. You are very meticulous.
I have just repainted my toyota 4x4 and there is a lot of orange peel. I have watched numerous how-to videos on how to remove the peel and polish the finish, and this is the best one by far. Going to give it a try tomorrow. Wish me luck. - JAMES
@@Russell_and_Rosko It went very well. There is still some Orange peel on the top and on the hood, but the rest ot the body is smooth and has a mirror finish. My truck is white, so there is no clearcoat. I would have finished the hood and roof, but ran out of compound.
This is by far the best instructional video I have seen on removing orange peel and then buffing the paint. Great step by step and you didn't leave anything out. I am getting ready to do this on a car that I just painted (my first paint job) and it has a lot of orange peel so this is exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Fifty years ago some folks said orange peel paint was a sign of quality I am told! How do car makers, turning out hundreds of car a week get around this problem? Very good explanatory video, well presented and illustrated. Thanks for this.
Wow! You did a great job on that door panel. I have been an auto detailer all my life and now in my late 50's. It was easier back in the day to wet sand, compound and buff, polish color on cars before base/clear became the norm. I am repainting a '74 model car now in my home garage and will use base/clear. I found your video to be very informative since this is my first paint job and I am already expecting orange peel because of my lack of experience.
@@RepairRefinishTV Piggy-backing on garth's comment - in this video are you bringing down orange peel on a clear coat? Like, if your colour coat (in my case acrylic) is a bit orange-peely, but the top coat is good and flat, will it still look orange-peely? Or do I need to flatten the colour coat before using a clear coat? Thanks and truly excellent video!
Blahblahblah Blah I believe flatting the clear is all that is required, but I’m not a painter, nor do I have experience in this field, but the reflection that you see when looking at a glassy surface comes from the outside face as the light bounces back at you... at least that’s how it works in my mind haha
My brother, thank you for sharing your knowledge. In the 80’s I painted and polished cars. Now that I’m retired, I’m going it again, but as a hobby. I can’t believe how much it has changed, and the availability of product is out there, especially polishers/ buffers. WOW
All the boutique products out there which didn't exist until the detailing industry exploded in the early 2000s and you can still get the best results you're ever gonna get from good old G3.
Really good detailed video. Well thought out with an easy to follow pace. I have been painting for more than 18 years and I could still learn from this video, Bravo Sir, for yopur skill and precision.!!
Thank you for the video. I have just had my van resprayed and it has a slight orange peel on certain panels, not too bad but I intend to remove the orange peel myself to a glass finish. Your video has been very helpful indeed.
I prefer wet sanding. I mix a gallon of water and 2-3 ounces Gold Class soap and spray the panel to lubricate it. It keeps the panel and sandpaper cleaner in between rinses. Paper seems to last longer as well. I like to finish with 5000 grit to remove any tics left by 3000.
Nice work. I have found that when using 3M or Meguiars products there is still usually the need to compound more than once. The compound really does the work.
This method would save a lot of sanding by hand, as the machine does the sanding work for you. I started buffing out used cars for car dealers in 1976. At that time the paint was all single stage lacquer or enamel. Now that I have issues with herniated discs in my back, this could save me a lot of pain!
Wonderful job!!!, you set the standard for O.P Removal... I need to finish up a Porsche job the same color that I am color sanding.. And I really do mean color sanding, no clear coat on this project so it's messy. GREAT job again.. I did most of all my work by sponge and sand paper but I am going to do the hood and bonnet by D.A and direct drive polisher then finish off with a D.A Buffer.
+M Living ahh hate polishing direct gloss! Very messy indeed. As for DA buffers they're great for final finishing. I always use rotary for that coarse compound then a DA for the final finishing works a treat.
+Repair Refinish TV be sure to post some pictures on the facebook polishing group. Its called Machine Polishing and Detailing search for it and it should pop up
Sadly I didn't have a rotary till recently, so you can imagine the work it took to remove some of those sanding marks down to a gloss finish with a D.A., A Flex 3401 to be specific. I will post pictures soon.. Thanks a lot :)
Yep! One of my first videos!! I'm actually quite embarrassed about it now as it's a bit rough around the edges but i was around 20 years old and exploring youtube and still learning myself. I'm not removing it as it shows how far I've come today😁
Thanks for the step by step guide, awesome finish... however, I prefer McGuire's cutting compund over Farecla, have used both and the McGuire's does a better finish.
Thanks for the video. I have a project that has a lot of orange peel and I haven't seen a video that shows the process to smooth out the orange peel as well as this video.
+Al8minium thank you, us painters love a glass finish but most customers do not. They like a matching OEM finish with slight orange peel. One glassed out panel on an OEM painted car stands out loads. Many thanks Jordan
Radek video Although I consider G3 to be a very industrial product, they have certainly improved it loads over the years. It now seems to have a lubricant...so no need for water.
Very difficult to get acrylic or nitrocellouse lacquer in the US.* That's how I started out over 45 years ago painting, sanding, & rubbing out lacquer. I prefer urethane. Rarely get orange peel. Enamel? Oh yeah! Lots of orange peel This door panel came out nice. Red paint expensive over there? Is here. Good job. TIP Rub the substance in before you buff it out. Compound, polish..etc Eliminates a lot of detailing * I realize for Concours Grade Shows lacquer was the original paint and must be original...etc
The 3000 is to remove the scratches from the 2000g, then is good for polishing, if you polish right after 2000 there will be Mark that the compound and the buffer can't remove
I think its more of a preference of what your doing.... DA i do dry only, if im using a block or my fav a paint stick i do it wet. I use my DA on production cars and a block on custom.
Brilliant and clear. thanks. I'm prepping a hood and guards for a small repair and flow coating hood. I'm wondering how best to sand existing clearcoat to prep for flow coat. What's finest grade sandpaper I can use for good adhesion but not leaving visible scratch marks?? Would you sand by hand? or use a DA or even rotary to sand?? Thanks so much.
A brilliant video .I have a old vw golf in tornado red I think the paint has faded and it's suffering from laquer peel .I'm going to get it sorted but would like your opinion as well.thank you
nice video man keep up the great work. I also love to paint , from small touch up jobs all the way to full builds. when I buff one out I do the same process as you do but when I'm buffing the g3, I'll buff it in good with a few swipes then I'll use a spray bottle to spray onto the area that I'm buffing to help keep the compound nice and moist and it also helps keep the paint a little cooler. just was wondering why you didn't do that step with your buffing style. nothing wrong with your style I was just wondering. thanks and again nice work.
+David Carpenter hi David, the Farecla compounds are dry use meaning that no water is needed. You'll find it should cut better without water. Thanks Jordan
What a task if you have runs as well as orange peel would you end up with a glass looking door finish or do a re-spray? 🤔 thank you for a very interesting video
If you made the door a complete flat (glass) or no texture finish the customer would realise how shitty the OEM paint job looks on the rest of the vehicle
not bad for a youngster. got much u need 2 learn tho. keep at it. u have potential 2 become a master paint manipulator.. 27 yrs of exp i have. ur good kid. keep it up.
Nice video. So the orange peel was on the lacquer coat and not the paint? Do you get orange peel on the paint job which needs to be fixed before the lacquer? Thanks
So just so I don't have to watch a bunch of other videos.. You painted the panel with a few coats, then clear coat it a few times maybe 3, then you wet sand the orange peel, and use buffing compound to bring the shine back?
We tend not to use these in bodyshops as we are working with fresh paint. I think denim pads are more a detailing product for fully cured paint. Thanks!
after all the sanding is done is there enough clear to be satisfactory. Im a beginner that paints outside so get shit job but put 5 coats and sand 2 back to flatten,I waste alot of clear but it turns out ok
Hi, I'm doing pretty good on my van. I haven't got a DA so I'm wet sanding with 1500 then 2000 - although I may try finishing with 3000 having watched your video again. I bought an electric polisher, but with a sponge pad and Farecla G3 I only seem to be getting a hazy/shiney finish, so I hand polish with G3 again and then with G10 and get a nice finish, but it's flamin' ard work! Think I need a "waffle pad." Before I go ordering anything can you give me a little advice on my technique? Thanks in advance, and once again for your great tutorial.
Hi Kurt, great to know you've started on your van! When you're polishing do you keep polishing until all the compound has gone creamy and starts to dissappear? Go over the flatted area with g3 twise then once with G10. I use the G3 Ultra, Fine and finish as used in the video now as I find i get better results than with the G10. Hope this helps Jordan
Hi Jordan thanks for your advice. I'm polishing until the compound starts to disappear but it looks like I'm just being too cautious and not machine polishing enough, or keeping the sponge more flat with the bodywork. I have new bottles of G3 advanced and G10 so will have to stick with them now. After all it is a VW T4 van : )
Just apply some pressure to the pad when polishing and keep it moving left to right. Also forgot to say new pads need priming so after a couple of uses they get better. Don't be afraid of burning through. You'll soon know your limits👍
Really nice video. The only thing I would like to add is that you are useing way to much polishing paste. You are overloading the pad making the job slower.
I would of hit the whom door lightly with 3000 just to feather the sanding areas out. Sometimes, in the sun, you can see where you started and stopped sanding. Its a flatter finish. Did you say laquer it again? Not to much laquer painting anymore.
Noticed you didn't use any water whilst buffing. I have an issue of compound going everywhere and being a real mongrel to remove from crevices etc. I expect it's the water, however if I don't use water it just dries out really quickly. Some advice would be helpful
Hi, some compounds don't require water. I would reccomended getting a good polishing compound such as the farecla brand as they won't splatter everywhere. Thanks
kenjams The real issue is, many people are unfamiliar with and could not master using rotary+wool even after many years and/or their new staff hv the same issue. Much safer to use machine sanding down to finest grit to enable them to jump straight into using foam+polish to finish it off. Many lowly-skilled Americans love to sand to 6000g and then use a simple DA with foam + polish. But being Americans, they are often blinded by brands, glamorisation and technique without thinking about the COST side of it....the cost of sandpaper + time. Which explains why so many thousands of businesses in the US had crumbled.
@@macallanvintage actually as an American painter I use 3m wool pad,da to 1500 on black clear and buff out at 1800 rpms,been painting for ten years..use a mix of Norton 3m and farecla...not so glamorous,but makes for a damn fine finish
the factory clear on my car has orange peel. as a drywall/painter i see it plain as day. It annoys the hell out of me. normal people dont see it unless pointed out which irritates me even more.
very informative video,but could just 1500 or 2000 be used on its own without 3000,and how many coats are on the panel in order to use the three grits not to remove too much paint and rub through.
Instead of sanding it, can I re-paint with spray max 2k again to cover up the orange peel? would extra thicker clear coat covers up the rough/imperfection? Thanks in advance.
Looks like a lot of tedious work, although I'm sure the results are amazing. The video is 24 minutes long, but how much time did you actually spend on this one area? I would assume that you didn't refinish the entire door just for comparisons sake. Also, are these products sold in the US? Thanks!
+Jeff Kramer normally doing the whole door would take around 15-20 mins start to finish depending on how bad the orange peel is. The small area i did here would litterally take 5 minutes in real time. Thanks, Jordan
+Jeff Kramer normally doing the whole door would take around 15-20 mins start to finish depending on how bad the orange peel is. The small area i did here would litterally take 5 minutes in real time. Thanks, Jordan
The sander is a Chicago Pneumatic Dual Action sander and the polisher is made by 3M however i don't think they are available anymore. Chicago Pneumatic also do polishing machines
Just completed a bumper repair, using K2 clear over silver base. Some sections are like glass, not like the rest of the car. Is respraying K2 with K2 ok to do ? Hopefully then leaving some orange peel which can be cut and buffed so not glassy.
Hi I have a question and really could use the help. I painted my car recently. I think I did overall a good job but can see orange peel around the whole vehicle. I washed it and the car looked like glass but then when it dried it turned back to orange peel. Any thoughts on how I could fix this? Thank you
Hey Jordan! I'm wet-sanding with P3000+interface pad on a 2mm hub DA and even the slowest speed setting and lightest pressure still produces some fine scratches/pigtails that are hard to fight with the G3. I'm using an excenter polisher with 15mm hub and a medium pad which both usually do an awesome job and "bite" rather hard. Would you recommend to add another step after the P3000 like using a tougher cutting compound for scratch removal before the G3?
Hmm...my G3 didn't come with a pad. I'll look it up and try to get one, maybe i'm lucky! At the moment i'm using a medium off-the-shelf standard pad. Loving the G3 otherwise though, not only for it's general performance but also for it's this certain oily-touch. The polisher moves like it's on butter and the compound doesn't dry too quick in the process. Thanks for your quick reply! :)
Chuck Thomas The cause of your issues are: 1. Quality and cleanliness of your sandpaper 2. Cleanliness of the paintwork. 3. Your technique. If you are using wetsanding and experiencing pigtails, how are you wetting that surface? Pls use a clean bottle filled with diluted car soap for enhanced lubrication. Work small areas..not exceeding 2sqft. Keep spritzing and WIPING that surface as you work on it. Accumulation of clearcoat particles and sandpaper particles cannot happen if you work slowly in small areas and keep flushing that area with your spray bottle. Even the most abrasive compound with the most aggresive 4ply lambswool pad, coupled to high speed on a rotary buffer...its very difficult to remove those pigtails and its not efficient. Cleanliness is critical.
Great video. What is the thickness of the coating before and after? Do you know how much of the clear coat you've taken off with this process? Also would a woolpad in combination with heavy cutting compound (eg. Menzerna fg400) do a similar job?
+Joe Fuentes Machine polisher = 3M DA random orbital sander= chicago pneumatic polish= Farecla G3 Ultra, fine and finish now not available but replaced with G3 premium. thanks
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Finally, someone who enunciates clearly enough to be understood! Ya can't learn much if you can't understand what's being said. Thank You!
Thanks so much! I try!🙂
Very systematically done. Well done mate. I never heard people talking about the flattened tops of the orange peel but this gentleman. You are very meticulous.
Thank you so much Saeed!
@@RepairRefinishTV you're welcome
I have just repainted my toyota 4x4 and there is a lot of orange peel. I have watched numerous how-to videos on how to remove the peel and polish the finish, and this is the best one by far. Going to give it a try tomorrow. Wish me luck. - JAMES
How’d it go James?
or you may try brand Osren : 56 leveller.
@@力士大-c1s what is the best way to get ahold of orange peel
T
@@Russell_and_Rosko It went very well. There is still some Orange peel on the top and on the hood, but the rest ot the body is smooth and has a mirror finish. My truck is white, so there is no clearcoat. I would have finished the hood and roof, but ran out of compound.
This is by far the best instructional video I have seen on removing orange peel and then buffing the paint. Great step by step and you didn't leave anything out. I am getting ready to do this on a car that I just painted (my first paint job) and it has a lot of orange peel so this is exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Thanks Brad, glad you liked it!
I just painted my truck driver’s door yesterday and I have a lot of orange peel and your video helped me out a lot
Thanks for your advice
Fifty years ago some folks said orange peel paint was a sign of quality I am told!
How do car makers, turning out hundreds of car a week get around this problem?
Very good explanatory video, well presented and illustrated. Thanks for this.
Wow! You did a great job on that door panel. I have been an auto detailer all my life and now in my late 50's. It was easier back in the day to wet sand, compound and buff, polish color on cars before base/clear became the norm. I am repainting a '74 model car now in my home garage and will use base/clear. I found your video to be very informative since this is my first paint job and I am already expecting orange peel because of my lack of experience.
+garth locklin thanks for the kind words😀 i love hearing feedback from my viewers. Good luck on the paint job!😀
@@RepairRefinishTV Piggy-backing on garth's comment - in this video are you bringing down orange peel on a clear coat? Like, if your colour coat (in my case acrylic) is a bit orange-peely, but the top coat is good and flat, will it still look orange-peely? Or do I need to flatten the colour coat before using a clear coat?
Thanks and truly excellent video!
Blahblahblah Blah I believe flatting the clear is all that is required, but I’m not a painter, nor do I have experience in this field, but the reflection that you see when looking at a glassy surface comes from the outside face as the light bounces back at you... at least that’s how it works in my mind haha
My brother, thank you for sharing your knowledge. In the 80’s I painted and polished cars. Now that I’m retired, I’m going it again, but as a hobby. I can’t believe how much it has changed, and the availability of product is out there, especially polishers/ buffers. WOW
All the boutique products out there which didn't exist until the detailing industry exploded in the early 2000s and you can still get the best results you're ever gonna get from good old G3.
Really good detailed video. Well thought out with an easy to follow pace. I have been painting for more than 18 years and I could still learn from this video, Bravo Sir, for yopur skill and precision.!!
Thank you for the video. I have just had my van resprayed and it has a slight orange peel on certain panels, not too bad but I intend to remove the orange peel myself to a glass finish. Your video has been very helpful indeed.
Glad its helped, thanks!
@Korbyn Frank good for you, there is always one idiot,
I prefer wet sanding. I mix a gallon of water and 2-3 ounces Gold Class soap and spray the panel to lubricate it. It keeps the panel and sandpaper cleaner in between rinses. Paper seems to last longer as well. I like to finish with 5000 grit to remove any tics left by 3000.
Nice work. I have found that when using 3M or Meguiars products there is still usually the need to compound more than once. The compound really does the work.
This method would save a lot of sanding by hand, as the machine does the sanding work for you. I started buffing out used cars for car dealers in 1976. At that time the paint was all single stage lacquer or enamel. Now that I have issues with herniated discs in my back, this could save me a lot of pain!
Same problem here
Wonderful job!!!, you set the standard for O.P Removal... I need to finish up a Porsche job the same color that I am color sanding.. And I really do mean color sanding, no clear coat on this project so it's messy.
GREAT job again.. I did most of all my work by sponge and sand paper but I am going to do the hood and bonnet by D.A and direct drive polisher then finish off with a D.A Buffer.
+M Living ahh hate polishing direct gloss! Very messy indeed. As for DA buffers they're great for final finishing. I always use rotary for that coarse compound then a DA for the final finishing works a treat.
+Repair Refinish TV be sure to post some pictures on the facebook polishing group. Its called Machine Polishing and Detailing search for it and it should pop up
Sadly I didn't have a rotary till recently, so you can imagine the work it took to remove some of those sanding marks down to a gloss finish with a D.A., A Flex 3401 to be specific. I will post pictures soon.. Thanks a lot :)
Thanx for the video. I wonder why when people gives a thumbs down they don't always explain why.... Thumbs up
Thanks Mark, yes i sometimes wonder if its me or the products or something that they don't like but i guess we'll never know! Have a great day!
Amazing video, I just can't get over the Adam Sandler thing.
+robert mills haha thanks! And yeah I get that a lot 😂
"The British" version... :)
Repair Refinish TV
uI'm nnnj
Sanding is bettah! I go in first and smooth the car!
Jerry Crawford
gg7
Awesome well explained and very clear. NB plse show at the end of the video all the products u used.
This is the whole process that make feel easier to make up after spray clear coat. Excellent info. Thank you very much.
i know this was like 4 years ago, but my lordy this looks a right treat!! Mint 👌💯🔥
Yep! One of my first videos!! I'm actually quite embarrassed about it now as it's a bit rough around the edges but i was around 20 years old and exploring youtube and still learning myself. I'm not removing it as it shows how far I've come today😁
@@RepairRefinishTV Good for you boss. Send another vid of your most recent work.
What a brilliant demonstration video, im a beginner helped me big time thanks
Thanks for the step by step guide, awesome finish... however, I prefer McGuire's cutting compund over Farecla, have used both and the McGuire's does a better finish.
Thanks for the video. I have a project that has a lot of orange peel and I haven't seen a video that shows the process to smooth out the orange peel as well as this video.
Great content and a real video without FastForward.
Very informative! thanks! This helps a lot with my Orange Peel on my quarter panels of my 59 Plymouth.
Excellent instructional video.
Can you tell me why it's preferable to avoid a glass finish?
+Al8minium thank you, us painters love a glass finish but most customers do not. They like a matching OEM finish with slight orange peel. One glassed out panel on an OEM painted car stands out loads. Many thanks
Jordan
why u dont use water to g3?
Radek video Although I consider G3 to be a very industrial product, they have certainly improved it loads over the years. It now seems to have a lubricant...so no need for water.
Radek video these compounds are dry use now meaning they do not need added water. thanks
Very difficult to get acrylic or nitrocellouse lacquer in the US.*
That's how I started out over 45 years ago painting, sanding, & rubbing out lacquer.
I prefer urethane. Rarely get orange peel.
Enamel? Oh yeah! Lots of orange peel
This door panel came out nice. Red paint expensive over there? Is here. Good job.
TIP Rub the substance in before you buff it out. Compound, polish..etc
Eliminates a lot of detailing
* I realize for Concours Grade Shows lacquer was the original paint and must be original...etc
Very professional on the job and with the video. Where are you based? Sounds like Nottingham.
Hey, I'm based in the Derbyshire area so not far away!👍
It's a very good polish I used it back in Barbados
Definitely it came out like a glass! I would use only P2000 to make it closer to the factory finish
The 3000 is to remove the scratches from the 2000g, then is good for polishing, if you polish right after 2000 there will be Mark that the compound and the buffer can't remove
Thanks for this great tutorial. Is quick detailer similar to fast inspection spray?
I am watching your video..I am gaining knowledge..Thank you very much brother ... My congratulations to you
Great video,what was the speed when cutting and polishing, thanks
Jordan please made a photo of those G3 products, so we can see exactly what it is🤔Thank you mate
Hey, I don’t think they sell them anymore this is an old video😊
Good video, great detail, thanks for sharing
prepare the panel better and smooth the primer helps prevent orange peel. when i spray, the finish is like glass
+juan def very true👍
+juan def very true👍
juan def what grit you use to smooth primer?
Most primer recommendations are 600 -800 wet finish sand
Awesome presentation just curious whether it is advisable to dry sand it.
No dry sand it will leave deep scratches keep it wet
I think its more of a preference of what your doing.... DA i do dry only, if im using a block or my fav a paint stick i do it wet. I use my DA on production cars and a block on custom.
Brilliant and clear. thanks. I'm prepping a hood and guards for a small repair and flow coating hood. I'm wondering how best to sand existing clearcoat to prep for flow coat. What's finest grade sandpaper I can use for good adhesion but not leaving visible scratch marks?? Would you sand by hand? or use a DA or even rotary to sand?? Thanks so much.
A brilliant video .I have a old vw golf in tornado red I think the paint has faded and it's suffering from laquer peel .I'm going to get it sorted but would like your opinion as well.thank you
nice video man keep up the great work. I also love to paint , from small touch up jobs all the way to full builds. when I buff one out I do the same process as you do but when I'm buffing the g3, I'll buff it in good with a few swipes then I'll use a spray bottle to spray onto the area that I'm buffing to help keep the compound nice and moist and it also helps keep the paint a little cooler. just was wondering why you didn't do that step with your buffing style. nothing wrong with your style I was just wondering. thanks and again nice work.
+David Carpenter hi David, the Farecla compounds are dry use meaning that no water is needed. You'll find it should cut better without water. Thanks Jordan
What a task if you have runs as well as orange peel would you end up with a glass looking door finish or do a re-spray? 🤔 thank you for a very interesting video
there are fixable , no respray
Great work - timing perfect - well done. Where do you get G3 Ultra?
If you made the door a complete flat (glass) or no texture finish the customer would realise how shitty the OEM paint job looks on the rest of the vehicle
Thanks, i was wondering why that wouldnt be desirable. Makes sense!
I never knew there was some much that went into peeling an orange.
not bad for a youngster. got much u need 2 learn tho. keep at it. u have potential 2 become a master paint manipulator.. 27 yrs of exp i have. ur good kid. keep it up.
+Jaime Martinez this was a few years ago now, I'm now working as a technical specialist for a paint manufacturer.
beautiful... i wish u the best in ur automotive refinishing career. u will do well. pecae.
+Jaime Martinez Thanks! Means alot:)
My Corvette had factory orange peel but my Lexus is smooth as glass.
I always enjoyed the final sand and polish.
I prefer the glass finish.
Thanks I sprayed a guitar A while back it has orange peel.I will try this on it it has dried forever lol.
Can you make a video explaining wet vs dry sanding? It seems that dry sanding makes it easier to control your quality.
+robert mills check out my video called Machine sanding before polishing. There i use a dry system finishing off with trizact discs
I’m
Either way you wipe and check.
Fantastic job mate. Great video.
I want to advice me which type and model of sprayer can buy to do good job ,,thank you for your video
Nice video. So the orange peel was on the lacquer coat and not the paint? Do you get orange peel on the paint job which needs to be fixed before the lacquer? Thanks
Brilliant mate very informative learnt a lot from this video thanks
Thanks so much David!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! A lot of work pays off. Looks great!
Do I use this identical method for removing Lemon peel 😁
But seriously excellent video very informative 👍
So just so I don't have to watch a bunch of other videos.. You painted the panel with a few coats, then clear coat it a few times maybe 3, then you wet sand the orange peel, and use buffing compound to bring the shine back?
Hi, great work. I was wondering if you get holograms using the rotary ?
+1minibean hi, no never used a DA polisher and never will. Never had holograms using a rotary 😀👍
How about using denim pad instead of sand papers?
We tend not to use these in bodyshops as we are working with fresh paint. I think denim pads are more a detailing product for fully cured paint. Thanks!
after all the sanding is done is there enough clear to be satisfactory. Im a beginner that paints outside so get shit job but put 5 coats and sand 2 back to flatten,I waste alot of clear but it turns out ok
Hi, I'm doing pretty good on my van. I haven't got a DA so I'm wet sanding with 1500 then 2000 - although I may try finishing with 3000 having watched your video again. I bought an electric polisher, but with a sponge pad and Farecla G3 I only seem to be getting a hazy/shiney finish, so I hand polish with G3 again and then with G10 and get a nice finish, but it's flamin' ard work! Think I need a "waffle pad." Before I go ordering anything can you give me a little advice on my technique?
Thanks in advance, and once again for your great tutorial.
Hi Kurt, great to know you've started on your van!
When you're polishing do you keep polishing until all the compound has gone creamy and starts to dissappear?
Go over the flatted area with g3 twise then once with G10.
I use the G3 Ultra, Fine and finish as used in the video now as I find i get better results than with the G10.
Hope this helps
Jordan
Hi Jordan thanks for your advice. I'm polishing until the compound starts to disappear but it looks like I'm just being too cautious and not machine polishing enough, or keeping the sponge more flat with the bodywork. I have new bottles of G3 advanced and G10 so will have to stick with them now. After all it is a VW T4 van : )
Just apply some pressure to the pad when polishing and keep it moving left to right. Also forgot to say new pads need priming so after a couple of uses they get better. Don't be afraid of burning through. You'll soon know your limits👍
Thanks Jordan, I'll keep you posted.
Thank you- I have a current orange peal issue-
Another high quality, well made video---- Thanks
1500 wet flat g3 cutting compound and then g10 and nice wax polish do same job on fresh paint
Really nice video. The only thing I would like to add is that you are useing way to much polishing paste. You are overloading the pad making the job slower.
Wet sanding it is faster
Eh Up! Great video......Thanks for posting......I learned a lot watching this......Cheers from Canada....
I would of hit the whom door lightly with 3000 just to feather the sanding areas out. Sometimes, in the sun, you can see where you started and stopped sanding. Its a flatter finish. Did you say laquer it again? Not to much laquer painting anymore.
Noticed you didn't use any water whilst buffing. I have an issue of compound going everywhere and being a real mongrel to remove from crevices etc. I expect it's the water, however if I don't use water it just dries out really quickly. Some advice would be helpful
Hi, some compounds don't require water. I would reccomended getting a good polishing compound such as the farecla brand as they won't splatter everywhere. Thanks
I really prefer the wool pad for compounding.
kenjams
The real issue is, many people are unfamiliar with and could not master using rotary+wool even after many years and/or their new staff hv the same issue.
Much safer to use machine sanding down to finest grit to enable them to jump straight into using foam+polish to finish it off.
Many lowly-skilled Americans love to sand to 6000g and then use a simple DA with foam + polish.
But being Americans, they are often blinded by brands, glamorisation and technique without thinking about the COST side of it....the cost of sandpaper + time.
Which explains why so many thousands of businesses in the US had crumbled.
@@macallanvintage actually as an American painter I use 3m wool pad,da to 1500 on black clear and buff out at 1800 rpms,been painting for ten years..use a mix of Norton 3m and farecla...not so glamorous,but makes for a damn fine finish
@@macallanvintage lol...6000g
@@macallanvintage why don't you go drive on the wrong side of the road and drink some tea
@@macallanvintage Trump 2020!
If you were doing a bike , 3 panels, would you still use a machine for sanding?
If the panels are flat yes, if not i would stick to hand sanding for sure!
the factory clear on my car has orange peel. as a drywall/painter i see it plain as day. It annoys the hell out of me. normal people dont see it unless pointed out which irritates me even more.
What does it look like if you burn through
How long this kind of polishing will endure in real life conditions? Is it going to lost it's glossines over the years?
Best video I've found on this
+Miki Lore thanks Miki 🖒
very informative video,but could just 1500 or 2000 be used on its own without 3000,and how many coats are on the panel in order to use the three grits not to remove too much paint and rub through.
Many thanks
Instead of sanding it, can I re-paint with spray max 2k again to cover up the orange peel? would extra thicker clear coat covers up the rough/imperfection? Thanks in advance.
Looks like a lot of tedious work, although I'm sure the results are amazing. The video is 24 minutes long, but how much time did you actually spend on this one area? I would assume that you didn't refinish the entire door just for comparisons sake. Also, are these products sold in the US? Thanks!
+Jeff Kramer normally doing the whole door would take around 15-20 mins start to finish depending on how bad the orange peel is. The small area i did here would litterally take 5 minutes in real time. Thanks, Jordan
+Jeff Kramer normally doing the whole door would take around 15-20 mins start to finish depending on how bad the orange peel is. The small area i did here would litterally take 5 minutes in real time. Thanks, Jordan
Repair Refinish TV That's good news, thanks Jordan!
Thank you so much for the tutorial. Could you please share what sander and polisher machines you used in this job?
The sander is a Chicago Pneumatic Dual Action sander and the polisher is made by 3M however i don't think they are available anymore. Chicago Pneumatic also do polishing machines
Just completed a bumper repair, using K2 clear over silver base. Some sections are like glass, not like the rest of the car. Is respraying K2 with K2 ok to do ? Hopefully then leaving some orange peel which can be cut and buffed so not glassy.
You did a spot on job thank you
was it sprayed with 2 pak paint or base and clear.... mint job bye the way
+barrie joke yes water base and 2k clearcoat thanks!
+barrie joke yes water base and 2k clearcoat thanks!
Hi, can you please tell me what polish is that? IS rubbing compound that you've used first? And the second finish mirror polish?
what psi should i run my DA Sander at?
Hi
I have a question and really could use the help. I painted my car recently. I think I did overall a good job but can see orange peel around the whole vehicle. I washed it and the car looked like glass but then when it dried it turned back to orange peel. Any thoughts on how I could fix this? Thank you
What is the difference between your Ake compressed D/A than my electric D/A polisher?
Nothing at all it's just how they are powered😃👍
why does he keep looking around like hes stealing something?
When i used to film these videos it was in a training centre so there was always people walking through behind the camera😊
@@RepairRefinishTV fair comment :) thanks for clearing that uip
Hey Jordan! I'm wet-sanding with P3000+interface pad on a 2mm hub DA and even the slowest speed setting and lightest pressure still produces some fine scratches/pigtails that are hard to fight with the G3. I'm using an excenter polisher with 15mm hub and a medium pad which both usually do an awesome job and "bite" rather hard. Would you recommend to add another step after the P3000 like using a tougher cutting compound for scratch removal before the G3?
+Chuck Thomas are you using the Yellow pad supplied with the G3? using other pads affects the performance. p3000 should polish up very very easy
Hmm...my G3 didn't come with a pad. I'll look it up and try to get one, maybe i'm lucky! At the moment i'm using a medium off-the-shelf standard pad. Loving the G3 otherwise though, not only for it's general performance but also for it's this certain oily-touch. The polisher moves like it's on butter and the compound doesn't dry too quick in the process. Thanks for your quick reply! :)
Chuck Thomas
The cause of your issues are:
1. Quality and cleanliness of your sandpaper
2. Cleanliness of the paintwork.
3. Your technique.
If you are using wetsanding and experiencing pigtails, how are you wetting that surface? Pls use a clean bottle filled with diluted car soap for enhanced lubrication. Work small areas..not exceeding 2sqft. Keep spritzing and WIPING that surface as you work on it.
Accumulation of clearcoat particles and sandpaper particles cannot happen if you work slowly in small areas and keep flushing that area with your spray bottle.
Even the most abrasive compound with the most aggresive 4ply lambswool pad, coupled to high speed on a rotary buffer...its very difficult to remove those pigtails and its not efficient.
Cleanliness is critical.
Can we use rubbing compound to remove orange peel? What the different between rubbing compound and polishing compound?
You could use a rubbing compound. The key is making sure you are able to sand the orange peel back first
@@RepairRefinishTV ok thanks, so ehat of different between rubbing compound and polishing compound?
Which compound you use after sanding and at the end
Very good..👍👍
Great work, well done. Which paint shop do you work out of and can you do some work for me please?
+james kemp hi James, I'm a refinishing tutor so i don't take on customers cars. Thanks
Jordan
Did you use a compound on the 2000 da or just dry
I enjoyed watching, good job
+Gary O thanks Gary!
Great video. What is the thickness of the coating before and after? Do you know how much of the clear coat you've taken off with this process?
Also would a woolpad in combination with heavy cutting compound (eg. Menzerna fg400) do a similar job?
Is any way you can listed all the items including tools that you need to do this job? Thank you!
+Joe Fuentes
Machine polisher = 3M
DA random orbital sander= chicago pneumatic
polish= Farecla G3 Ultra, fine and finish now not available but replaced with G3 premium.
thanks
Awesome job
Fantastic video! Thanks for making it.
which paint man. and who is ur favorite paint line. I have 2. CROMAX. WHICH IS ACTUAALY DUPONT. AND SIKKENS... my paints of choice. whats yours?
+Jaime Martinez Standox is probably my favourite followed by Glasurit
Hey Jordan, what brand interface pad do you use on your DA? It looks like it is a rubber material? The ones I use are foam and do not last very long.
+Angus Smith hey, its a farecla interface pad. it's still sponge though.
Jordan
Thanks Jordan, possibly it is the same as I am using now. I wonder if rubber based interface pads exist? I would like to try them!
Really3 help me . And nice tutorial ! Thanks buddy !