I’ve been watching and learning from you for 4 years now, I’m in college and now I’m going to start my own detailing company this month. Thank you for the inspiration, because of you I’m now very passionate about detailing.
If you use a 5000 or higher grit, it's pretty much dummy proof. Literally try it on any part of car followed by 6k, 7k, or 8k then compound, polish, and finish. It's easy process.
@@kiavaxxaskewI am in the process of doing the same to a Miata project. Starting at 1k, then moving all the way up 10k. Compounding now with 3m perfect. Looks good so far.
@@kiavaxxaskewwhat about going from 1.5k, 2K,3K up to much 5k? I know it’s a lot of work obviously but it’s on my own car. So I don’t mind if I’m over worked. What does the extra 2/3/4k provide? Just easier access to remove the sanding marks? Or is 1.5k to 2k enough like in this video? What I don’t want.. is to finish at 2k, use a wool pad and a DA with a cutting compound and it just doesn’t clear or something goes wrong
I agree that would be interesting. But I speculate Larry would not do that, because the loss in overall paint thickness is probably not "that large" - but what you are really interested in would be how much clear coat (in the top layer) is remaining. And I guess there is just no way to tell that, because one will not know, how thick this layer of clear coat was prior to the procedure.
If you wet sand correctly you may lose 5-6um. Personally I wouldn't ever dry sand with 1500 grit. I've wet sanded some cars and panels in the past and had very similar results to the video using 2500 wet sanding. I would generally go to 2000 grit as the lowest and then I'd follow up with 3000 grit. Using 1500 then 2000 and straight to Polishing can leave tiny sanding marks which you aren't getting out with compound and polish. However as Larry says generally wet sanding is a no no - not really any benefits in the real world. I've only done it to repair poorly re painted panels or as experimentation.
Mill thickness gauge measures the entire paint build, not he clear coat thickness. Got to keep that in mind. It’s also a good practice to tape all edges (burnt many an edge) when buffing. Great video love them.
This is what I don’t understand. If that gauge measures total thickness then how do they know if there will be any clear coat left after sanding? If they can remove the orange peel then that means that the orange peel is only in the clear coat, right? And they aren’t even sanding green paint ever…just clear?
You can measure an open area and then a door jamb to get an idea of how much clear you’re working with. The door jambs will have the least clear so you know you have between that and the total # to work with. Let’s say it’s 5.5 mils on the car average and 3.2 in the jamb. That means you have 2.3 mills to work with before danger.
Larry is great knowledge and all around professor but when you add Jason Rose into the mix, your head explodes. Nobody can come close to these two fine Gents. Those two brains in one room could be dangerous and I would love to be there.
I used denim pad with my DA with heavy cut M105 compound and it worked perfect for orange peel removal. I didnt have to do actual sanding. Finished with regular soft polishing pad with M205 compound
I think its more often used on aftermarket paint, which tends to be thicker and harder? So sanding is faster and safer than oem paint. Correct me if I'm wrong!
@@jordanweaver9658 i performed it on both originally painted surfaces and repainted surfaces. Referring to use of Denim pad, not sanding. Worked well on both, it is much safer to go with denim pad and da machine.
@@peni80085 it should only be done if your car has plenty of clear coat because if not in a few weeks or months your clear coat might fail and the car will have to be painted again. You should always request for a lot of clear coat layers if you ever get your car painted its worth paying more
Another solid way to determine if your pad is deteriorating is to simply look at the pad. Most high quality pads such as Rupes, 3m actually have vertical or horizontal abrasion patterns. After sanding simply blow off the disc and inspect those patterns to determine how much cutting capability you have left! I used this method also when sanding headlights. You’ll see a noticeable difference in the pads if you regularly inspect them while sanding.
I absolutely admire my sensie in wet-sanding Mr. Rose, (one of my idols on the pad 😉), but great video as always as I'm an up and coming pro myself who is passionate about our craft as well so due be on the lookout Larry as you and your channel has helped me immensely God bless SALUTE!!!🔥
Another Amazing job by the Absolute Best... AMMO NYC, Larry as always and Jason is an amazing detailer and Even better friend (it would seem) always there for a friend.
Maybe one day you could try out those new denim and velvet pads. Probably good to compare MRR and time spent. Either way glad you highlighted the fact that it's better to leave orange peel alone in most cases!
I do a lot of hand wetsanding on deep rids for my job, leveling fresh paint with a pneumatic DA and man the bodyshop guys love their Makita rotary to attack those sanding marks. Killing my wrists after a year, and they've all had multiple surgeries. My 15mm DA with microfiber cutting pad and Rupes' DA Coarse just isnt enough to attack P2000 sanding marks, but hopefully my new Rupes Mille with their new wool pads will. Absolutely love leveling fresh paint for that perfect mirror finish.
Oh, I enjoy your videos. Thank you and for this weekend I think I will go back to watch some of the videos on the monster collection of cars where you had a few videos made. Those cars were incredible.
What a gorgeous car, that color is unbelievable EDIT: So awesome to find out about this museum when I've got a trip to Newport coming up. Can't wait to check it out!
I am a scale modeller in my free time and I prevent orange peel using additives in the paint like drying retarder. It slows the curing time but it helps the paint to level itself out and also prevent dry paint on the airbrush nosel. Isn't it the same for a larger scale or...? I mean if it's an aftermarket paint I would imagine they use paint enhancers or something.
Suggesting there's a 'ton of paint to work with' based on the paint depth readings on a resprayed car is a bit misleading. Unless you know for a fact that the vehicle you're working on was sanded all the way back to the original substrate before the new paint went down, then it's really just a crap shoot. Sure, you can do your door shut comparisons to get perhaps a bit of insight, but it's still a toss up. Just thought that was worth mentioning! Great video as usual, Larry.
If I'm not mistaken there is a difference between the k series and p series sandpapers. P series is the stuff you normally find in stores, where k is more specialty. K1500 will cut like p1200 but have the finish of p1500-p2000. K has a more aggressive cut but smoother finish. So be careful if you have thin paint
I have watched ratarossa clean his Ferrari looks amazing and I would love to use your product on my 1967 firebird restored thank you and have a great day
Polishing with a rotation machine gives you most times a Hologramm on dark colors!!! There is a special fluid , avoiding this , for the last polishing step as well as another machine. I would like to see your work on a black car 🤗🤗
Great stuff Larry! Beautiful 911 in a great unusual color. I might need to tackle this on my E39 cause I have some etched-in water spots and DA compounding with microfiber and meg 105 isn't doing much :(
Please take this as constructive criticism and not keyboard hate. You’re sanding WAY to far away from the edges. That DA is capable of going right to the edge without spending too much time or risk burning through(I’d estimate I’d spend an extra 2h sand and polish). It obviously takes good motor skills and an attentive eye but it’s worth it. I cringe when I see a perfectly flat panel and it had a 2 inch frame of peel. Keep working that DA, eventually it will become an extension of your body. ;)
I can really appreciate your tutorial on this job. I'm still nervous about doing my 2008 'Vette Velocity Yellow Tintcoat. I've had the car for years, kept it in the garage, and have never done a detailing. Three plus years ago, I made the mistake of parking overnight out of town near a maple tree in the Spring and got some nasty gum on it. Plus, I never cleaned it off properly. So, there are some steps I'll have to take first to get the tree residue off before I can start such a project. But, I also don't want to really spend $1,000+ getting a "professional" to do it since not all detailers are created equal. I know that doing a good job and doing "too much" is a fine line. And, staying away from sharp edges must be at the forefront. I'll probably continue to procrastinate.
I've been doing this for years, fast and easy fix on tree sap or anything nasty, even overspray is to use lacker thinner on a cloth or microfiber, to remove it. Then immediately spray wax and grease remover over double the area you wiped to neutralize the lacker thinner. Don't skip the last step lacker thinner is some nasty stuff and if left it will eat paint. Follow that and it's quick fast and easy, not usually the case.
We wet sand cars with 2000 and Icon Rocklear right over top afterwards. Not only do we get rid of orange peel, we add to the clear coat with a rock hard, clear protective coating that is 75 times thicker than ceramic. It also boasts permanent UV and Chemical protection.
Larry, what do I have to do for my car to be a "demonstration vehicle?" 😂 Great video as usual, man. Very insightful. Think you might go a little bit more into how to tell how hard a particular paint is? Rock on!
if your buffing your whole car trust me it is so worth taping the trim and gaps bc its such a pain in the ass to get rid the compound off not to mention certain buffing compound will easily and quickly fade the black on the trims people think its exseave taping a car to buff it bc they associated with painting a car but it really isn't
Great video! But I dont understand why you have to sand past 1500 grit if you have compounds that will remove 1500 grit, especially since your doing 2 stage polish anyway. If the 1st stage compound cuts the 1500 marks and removes it all, isnt it doing the same thing as the additional sanding stages??
Make a video of description of what techniques to use when pulling orange peel off the avg car that could use a prettier look. So if someone does decide to do it for any reason they can know how to do it without the fear of removing too much, since most economy cars have the same amount of paint, same for trucks, suv, starting class sports car.
Great content. Very applicable. Appreciate the links to the specific products too. Takes the guesswork out and avoids reinventing the process. Thanks! I had to go back and save this video to Favorites. I'll be referencing this one again!
Advice to all other amateur painters out there. Start with 2000 grit instead of something harsher. Yeah it'll take a little bit longer, but it gives you that buffer to not burn through your clearcoat
The orange peel is derived from the fumes evaporating from the surface, you have also referred to the paint throughout the video when sanding, cutting, and polishing. On the other hand, I believe the process did not involve sanding or polishing through the clear coat. Sorry for being a little confused, are we correcting the paint or the clear coat?
What’s annoying is that for far too many years I’ve been saying that this is the only way to truly rectify and “detail” a finish. Forget the clay bar and 42 stages of magical compounds. This process is expensive but thorough and takes time and skill. Also be aware that if you cut through the clear then you had better have the equipment and skill to refinish it. It’s a good video but what you’ve done is make people think that they’ve been paying far too much for far too little over the past years. Just to say that I’ve been refinishing and polishing for decades, I’ll use this everyday which includes today.
I’ve been watching and learning from you for 4 years now, I’m in college and now I’m going to start my own detailing company this month. Thank you for the inspiration, because of you I’m now very passionate about detailing.
how’s it been
@@frostedcereal8243 looks like he's been playing a bunch of cod instead
@@NecessaryNarcissism hmm I see
@@NecessaryNarcissism looks like he’s a racer now
@@NecessaryNarcissism this made me lol
Detailing is hard work, COD is not lol 😂
Can’t wait to never do this to my car, but still loved watching/learning about the process.
🤣🤣👍
If you use a 5000 or higher grit, it's pretty much dummy proof. Literally try it on any part of car followed by 6k, 7k, or 8k then compound, polish, and finish. It's easy process.
@@kiavaxxaskewI am in the process of doing the same to a Miata project. Starting at 1k, then moving all the way up 10k. Compounding now with 3m perfect. Looks good so far.
@@kiavaxxaskewwhat about going from 1.5k, 2K,3K up to much 5k? I know it’s a lot of work obviously but it’s on my own car. So I don’t mind if I’m over worked.
What does the extra 2/3/4k provide? Just easier access to remove the sanding marks? Or is 1.5k to 2k enough like in this video?
What I don’t want.. is to finish at 2k, use a wool pad and a DA with a cutting compound and it just doesn’t clear or something goes wrong
Dang I was hoping you would remeasure the paints thickness after all that sanding to see how much was removed.
I agree. Makes you wonder how much clear coat was left, if any, after all that sanding.
I agree that would be interesting. But I speculate Larry would not do that, because the loss in overall paint thickness is probably not "that large" - but what you are really interested in would be how much clear coat (in the top layer) is remaining. And I guess there is just no way to tell that, because one will not know, how thick this layer of clear coat was prior to the procedure.
@@RC-ic1co i hope larry read this and bring it up in the new vids
If you wet sand correctly you may lose 5-6um.
Personally I wouldn't ever dry sand with 1500 grit. I've wet sanded some cars and panels in the past and had very similar results to the video using 2500 wet sanding.
I would generally go to 2000 grit as the lowest and then I'd follow up with 3000 grit.
Using 1500 then 2000 and straight to Polishing can leave tiny sanding marks which you aren't getting out with compound and polish.
However as Larry says generally wet sanding is a no no - not really any benefits in the real world. I've only done it to repair poorly re painted panels or as experimentation.
@@PepegaPig buy good brands made for dry sanding only and the diff is tangible...
"This is your walk of shame..." would not even dare to say that to Jason... Larry = Legend!
i really dont know why i am soo obsessed with this channel
Only thing I can afford to have orange peel on is oranges😭
Not just delicious, but nutritious as well!
Same
@@oc0dyc fþtf
Bazinga
@@oc0dyc wrong
Best Car Channel on TH-cam hands Down
Jason is a great guest....lots of paint-finishing wisdom. Thanks for the vid.
Mill thickness gauge measures the entire paint build, not he clear coat thickness. Got to keep that in mind. It’s also a good practice to tape all edges (burnt many an edge) when buffing. Great video love them.
This is what I don’t understand. If that gauge measures total thickness then how do they know if there will be any clear coat left after sanding?
If they can remove the orange peel then that means that the orange peel is only in the clear coat, right? And they aren’t even sanding green paint ever…just clear?
Just clear coat causes the orange peel
You can measure an open area and then a door jamb to get an idea of how much clear you’re working with. The door jambs will have the least clear so you know you have between that and the total # to work with.
Let’s say it’s 5.5 mils on the car average and 3.2 in the jamb. That means you have 2.3 mills to work with before danger.
One of the better videos explaining the sanding process
Larry is great knowledge and all around professor but when you add Jason Rose into the mix, your head explodes. Nobody can come close to these two fine Gents. Those two brains in one room could be dangerous and I would love to be there.
There is nothing better than a new AMMO video!!
The word "wow" is all that comes to mind !!! Excellent
Your knowledge in detailing still AMAZES me even after I’ve been subbed for awhile!!
Thanks for watching and supporting AMMO!
If I can ever afford to have a nice car that needs my paint touched up this is the only guy that I would trust to do that
No one cares
@@bitcoochie4093 why are you so angry? Lighten up
You bet he got all the tools.
My guy probably chargers more than most cars are worth 💀
@@bitcoochie4093 bob can’t afford nice cars either
I love that you use some background music with real instruments in a time where most car-related videos feature EDM almost exclusively.
I used to watch the Detail Geek, but I hated that stupid ass music so much
I’ve been detailing for a few years now and I still learn something new from you every day
simply put : a beautiful colour restoration on a truly deserving motor, big respect !!
Insane!
I'll say it again, you are M.O. (Microbe Obliterator) from Wall-E. You don't just pay attention to details; details are life!
Larry: Who Moved the Mayonnaise on the left side of the Fridge? It belongs on the right side with the Label facing out!!!
No one I guess
I'm still sus of everyone tho
I used denim pad with my DA with heavy cut M105 compound and it worked perfect for orange peel removal. I didnt have to do actual sanding. Finished with regular soft polishing pad with M205 compound
I think its more often used on aftermarket paint, which tends to be thicker and harder? So sanding is faster and safer than oem paint. Correct me if I'm wrong!
@@jordanweaver9658 i performed it on both originally painted surfaces and repainted surfaces. Referring to use of Denim pad, not sanding. Worked well on both, it is much safer to go with denim pad and da machine.
Plot twist: Jason intentionally let rain drip on the 911 so he could satisfy that desire to detail that beauty one last time...
I’m glad you posted this. I’m about to do a $50 rustoleum roll on paint job and will be sanding the orange peel.
Larry the kind of detailer to have a Glickenhaus Boot Baja and a Rimac in for detailing. That's just insane.
*I can already see this is going to be another classic that I rewatch over and over again like the 5-layers-of-paint-964 video.* 🌈😊👍
While I will probably never do a full detail like you do, I absolutely love your content! Thank you for sharing with us!
Just opened the video but so excited to see it as Audrain is right down the road from me!
Very great key point of this video is “there are a lot more reasons NOT to sand your car paint then there is.”
That doesn't even mean anything
@@peni80085 it should only be done if your car has plenty of clear coat because if not in a few weeks or months your clear coat might fail and the car will have to be painted again. You should always request for a lot of clear coat layers if you ever get your car painted its worth paying more
Perfect timing as I painted my own car and have the orange peel as you described. The Porsche is even the same color as I painted my car. Crazy.
Larry, I think you forgot to put the kickstarter link in the description.
Hello, just a heads up, the link is now in the description!
Wet sanding results are the best! Great job as always!
Amazing job ! the green paint looks so much better with the sanding, compounding and polishing, and of course, also with AMMO protection !
Another solid way to determine if your pad is deteriorating is to simply look at the pad. Most high quality pads such as Rupes, 3m actually have vertical or horizontal abrasion patterns. After sanding simply blow off the disc and inspect those patterns to determine how much cutting capability you have left! I used this method also when sanding headlights. You’ll see a noticeable difference in the pads if you regularly inspect them while sanding.
Ammo is the Linus tech tips of the detailing world.
The measured paint thickness on this car is overstated because it also includes the layers that were painted over.
I was wondering where to get those new sprayers and finally able to order two of them. Thanks Mr. Larry!
Thanks for supporting our campaign!
I absolutely admire my sensie in wet-sanding Mr. Rose, (one of my idols on the pad 😉), but great video as always as I'm an up and coming pro myself who is passionate about our craft as well so due be on the lookout Larry as you and your channel has helped me immensely God bless SALUTE!!!🔥
The part when i heard it was daily driven by the owner, made my day!
Another Amazing job by the Absolute Best... AMMO NYC, Larry as always and Jason is an amazing detailer and Even better friend (it would seem) always there for a friend.
Great to see Jason, Dan and you working on a amazing project. Nick had to love his car
When I saw Jason I was like JOOOOOOO YOU GOT THE MASTER IN HOUSE??!!!!!!
Maybe one day you could try out those new denim and velvet pads.
Probably good to compare MRR and time spent.
Either way glad you highlighted the fact that it's better to leave orange peel alone in most cases!
I WISH MORE PEOPLE UNDERSTOOD THE DIFINITION OF.....EXCELLENCE!!!!!!
I do a lot of hand wetsanding on deep rids for my job, leveling fresh paint with a pneumatic DA and man the bodyshop guys love their Makita rotary to attack those sanding marks. Killing my wrists after a year, and they've all had multiple surgeries. My 15mm DA with microfiber cutting pad and Rupes' DA Coarse just isnt enough to attack P2000 sanding marks, but hopefully my new Rupes Mille with their new wool pads will. Absolutely love leveling fresh paint for that perfect mirror finish.
From their TH-cam videos, it seems like a wonderful museum
Brilliant video Larry! I just learnt the correct difference between film and foam sanding discs
Nice to see Jason back in the videos!
So awesome seeing the Audrain museum. I've been there multiple times and visit Newport quite often.
Oh, I enjoy your videos. Thank you and for this weekend I think I will go back to watch some of the videos on the monster collection of cars where you had a few videos made. Those cars were incredible.
What a gorgeous car, that color is unbelievable
EDIT: So awesome to find out about this museum when I've got a trip to Newport coming up. Can't wait to check it out!
Big fan from Pakistan..... best-detailing channel keep up the good work.
This is an excellent video. It's informative, well-structured, and shows the results of their work quite well, I think. Subscribed.
Great video as always, but @4:55, "there is plenty of paint" or plenty of clear coat? Because that just change everything.
Or plenty of primer...
Amazing job,, love the result
Proud detailer here in the Philippines 😊
“We need to make sure that the paint is okay!!” My line every time at the shop 😂😂😂
I am a scale modeller in my free time and I prevent orange peel using additives in the paint like drying retarder. It slows the curing time but it helps the paint to level itself out and also prevent dry paint on the airbrush nosel. Isn't it the same for a larger scale or...? I mean if it's an aftermarket paint I would imagine they use paint enhancers or something.
Gorgeous car. But I think I’m more in love with Larry garage. I think I can live in there and detail my car everyday haha
I have been waiting for this video for so long
Suggesting there's a 'ton of paint to work with' based on the paint depth readings on a resprayed car is a bit misleading. Unless you know for a fact that the vehicle you're working on was sanded all the way back to the original substrate before the new paint went down, then it's really just a crap shoot. Sure, you can do your door shut comparisons to get perhaps a bit of insight, but it's still a toss up.
Just thought that was worth mentioning! Great video as usual, Larry.
If I'm not mistaken there is a difference between the k series and p series sandpapers. P series is the stuff you normally find in stores, where k is more specialty. K1500 will cut like p1200 but have the finish of p1500-p2000. K has a more aggressive cut but smoother finish. So be careful if you have thin paint
I have watched ratarossa clean his Ferrari looks amazing and I would love to use your product on my 1967 firebird restored thank you and have a great day
Polishing with a rotation machine gives you most times a Hologramm on dark colors!!! There is a special fluid , avoiding this , for the last polishing step as well as another machine.
I would like to see your work on a black car 🤗🤗
Great stuff Larry! Beautiful 911 in a great unusual color. I might need to tackle this on my E39 cause I have some etched-in water spots and DA compounding with microfiber and meg 105 isn't doing much :(
Please take this as constructive criticism and not keyboard hate. You’re sanding WAY to far away from the edges. That DA is capable of going right to the edge without spending too much time or risk burning through(I’d estimate I’d spend an extra 2h sand and polish). It obviously takes good motor skills and an attentive eye but it’s worth it. I cringe when I see a perfectly flat panel and it had a 2 inch frame of peel. Keep working that DA, eventually it will become an extension of your body. ;)
I forgot how good your videos are!
I can really appreciate your tutorial on this job.
I'm still nervous about doing my 2008 'Vette Velocity Yellow Tintcoat. I've had the car for years, kept it in the garage, and have never done a detailing.
Three plus years ago, I made the mistake of parking overnight out of town near a maple tree in the Spring and got some nasty gum on it. Plus, I never cleaned it off properly. So, there are some steps I'll have to take first to get the tree residue off before I can start such a project. But, I also don't want to really spend $1,000+ getting a "professional" to do it since not all detailers are created equal.
I know that doing a good job and doing "too much" is a fine line. And, staying away from sharp edges must be at the forefront.
I'll probably continue to procrastinate.
I've been doing this for years, fast and easy fix on tree sap or anything nasty, even overspray is to use lacker thinner on a cloth or microfiber, to remove it. Then immediately spray wax and grease remover over double the area you wiped to neutralize the lacker thinner.
Don't skip the last step lacker thinner is some nasty stuff and if left it will eat paint.
Follow that and it's quick fast and easy, not usually the case.
Great ,,I have been looking at wet sand ,,tool's ,,I use Rupees,,,and am definitely going to go get wet& dry sand pads,,very Helpful 👍...new Zealand..
That Irish Green 912 you cleaned up was so cool but I can’t seem to find it on your channel anymore.
We wet sand cars with 2000 and Icon Rocklear right over top afterwards. Not only do we get rid of orange peel, we add to the clear coat with a rock hard, clear protective coating that is 75 times thicker than ceramic. It also boasts permanent UV and Chemical protection.
I´m not even into such things. YT, what the hell is with your recommendations?!
And I LOVE this! :) Very interesting and informative.
Can definitely say this is a pain but it's worth the outcome ,I do this on a weekly basis after painting and paint comes out looking like glass
Larry, what do I have to do for my car to be a "demonstration vehicle?" 😂
Great video as usual, man. Very insightful. Think you might go a little bit more into how to tell how hard a particular paint is?
Rock on!
I’m very surprised the Kick Starter did not hit its goal! Please make the product, I’m first in line to purchase!!
if your buffing your whole car trust me it is so worth taping the trim and gaps bc its such a pain in the ass to get rid the compound off not to mention certain buffing compound will easily and quickly fade the black on the trims people think its exseave taping a car to buff it bc they associated with painting a car but it really isn't
Always with love and passions great work guys.
Great choice of music. Love your vids keep up the amazing work!
Smooth as silk. Love your content!
Great video! But I dont understand why you have to sand past 1500 grit if you have compounds that will remove 1500 grit, especially since your doing 2 stage polish anyway. If the 1st stage compound cuts the 1500 marks and removes it all, isnt it doing the same thing as the additional sanding stages??
That turned out phenomenal.
Amazing work.I use Rupes products as well, hard to beat.
Make a video of description of what techniques to use when pulling orange peel off the avg car that could use a prettier look. So if someone does decide to do it for any reason they can know how to do it without the fear of removing too much, since most economy cars have the same amount of paint, same for trucks, suv, starting class sports car.
What a beautiful colour! You guys finished that paint off perfectly
amazing job! thanks for the content as always Larry!
Great content. Very applicable. Appreciate the links to the specific products too. Takes the guesswork out and avoids reinventing the process. Thanks!
I had to go back and save this video to Favorites. I'll be referencing this one again!
I picked up a few tips, thanks for posting.
Advice to all other amateur painters out there. Start with 2000 grit instead of something harsher. Yeah it'll take a little bit longer, but it gives you that buffer to not burn through your clearcoat
When will you take care of Rimac? I can't wait for that video.
Awesome video, thank you for the info and could not be more true. Don’t wet sand if you don’t need to
You’re brave!! Job well done!! As usual!!
Hey any plans on new podcasts? Been repeating the existing ones for years lol.
Working on them. Hopefully coming soon!
its so weird seeing that shop at the end because I've driven by it many times and been to the audrain musuem a bunch to
Outstanding Larry!
Finally. Was waiting for the porsche
The orange peel is derived from the fumes evaporating from the surface, you have also referred to the paint throughout the video when sanding, cutting, and polishing. On the other hand, I believe the process did not involve sanding or polishing through the clear coat. Sorry for being a little confused, are we correcting the paint or the clear coat?
When paint correctionalists are referring to "paint", they are referring to the clear layed on top of it, unless it's single-staged.
What’s annoying is that for far too many years I’ve been saying that this is the only way to truly rectify and “detail” a finish. Forget the clay bar and 42 stages of magical compounds. This process is expensive but thorough and takes time and skill. Also be aware that if you cut through the clear then you had better have the equipment and skill to refinish it. It’s a good video but what you’ve done is make people think that they’ve been paying far too much for far too little over the past years. Just to say that I’ve been refinishing and polishing for decades, I’ll use this everyday which includes today.
Great video. I do have a question.... when you do dry sanding 1500grit how do you prevent clear from clumping under?
I continually blow my DA pad and panel I’m working on with compressed air. Also, I never wet sand with 1500 as my first step, dry only.
Love the comment Larry, way to many reasons to NOT try and remove the orange peel effect.
When is the video of remac coming? The Porsche is looking amazing guys
really wish the tippy spray bottles were available outside the usa :(
“Sneak preview of the Boot”
Meanwhile that video’s been out for 3 months 😂