Must make sure that you're replacing the CMOS battery with the same type of battery. Some use non-rechargeable ones like the CR2032 shown in this video. Others use rechargeable ones like ML1220. You risk damaging either your laptop CMOS charging circuit or causing the replacement battery to leak/explode inside your laptop if you use a non-rechargeable in place of a rechargable battery.
I know this was some time ago, but actually this is not correct. Laptops us CR2032 Lithium batteries and not ML rechargeables. Also most rechargeable batteries cant reach the needed voltage or die much quicker. The CMOS system uses such little power a rechargeable isn't needed. So as long as your laptops one was CR2032 and you replace with the same you're all good
Just what I was looking for!! Was about to solder too. Mine had a contact attached to the wires already so I made it flat as possible and wrapped the electrical tape tightly around it and seems to be doing the job. I swapped out the original 1620N battery with a 2032. Same voltage, etc just 3 times more MAH. Thanks for posting
Thanks for making this video. You saved me probably $30. I had 3 Intel NUCs that all needed the battery replaced. Luckily the existing batteries had flat metal connectors on the ends of the wires that I was able to pull of the batteries and use to connect to the new batteries. Also, luckily, I already had some aluminum metal tape that would normally be used for sealing duct work (not duct tape, the metal kind). It worked great. I didn't have any heat shrink. I just wrapped it in electrical tape. Hopefully, it doesn't melt and make a mess for the next time I need to replace the batteries. Other than that, was glad I was able to immediately replace the batteries and save some money. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It was very useful. Also, people were complaining the ones I was going to buy on Amazon sometimes had the wires backwards. I would rather make my own and make sure they are wired correctly. Pretty pathetic quality control that a company would let that happen.
Brilliant tutorial. I successfully replaced the CMOS battery in my HP Pavillion DV2 laptop today following your guide. I think the plastic shrink stuff that I ordered may have been a bit too wide as it didn't shrink wrap like yours did but it still did a good job and the laptop is now happily using the CMOS battery hack.
it's currently September 2018. I just discovered I had an old ThinkPad (not Lenovo, IBM!) T30 in storage. with mildew growing on the case because of moisture. I plug it and it boots up to windows XP! well after it gave me the error prompt that date is set incorrectly. opening it up, the CMOS battery is just like what you have in yellow shrink tubing. searched eBay found some but shipping will cost me a lot (I live in the Philippines). found this video and it's EXACTLY what I need to do! Thanks so much from the Philippines!
You can remove the wires from the original cmos battery and keep the connector intact. Use the conductive tape and the heat shrink to connect the wire to the new battery and viola, a new cmos battery ready to install.
That brought back a memory! When I was about 12 (30 years ago, lol) I briefly connected a button battery to a 6V dc power supply to try and recharge it, and it exploded. I was lucky like you, nothing went near my eyes.
I have recharged batteries like this a little, just to see if something still worked. You have to keep the charging supply small, just a little higher voltage. These batteries are made to be charged but not real fast. Hook it up to a couple AA batteries
Believe it or not hockey tape works even better for this hack than insulation tape. When it dries from the heat generated inside the laptop - it tightens. Insulation tape does the opposite actually. It tends to expand and the glue sloughs off in a huge mess. With hockey tape you don't even need to use heat shrink pocket.
I actually tried to solder the wires to the battery before I saw your video! Lucky there was no explosion, but the battery did get very hot! Thanks for the tutorial, this way is MUCH better and easier :)
Yep, just did the same - even after seeing the thumbnail for this video and thinking I knew enough - the solder didn't stick to the battery surface, and by then the battery was very hot, probably ruined, but cheap, and it didn't explode - so I came back to see how it's done.
Thank you for this video. Seven years later I still found it useful for my Intel Nuc DN2820FYKH computer that had a pigtail on the CMOS battery. Transplanted it to a new battery with some tape and it is up and running again.
I simply peeled the tabs off the dead battery, taped them to the new battery with conductive tape, wrapped in electrician's tape and good to go. Thanks for the Tut & yeah people, NO SOLDERING ON BATTERIES!
Also wanted to mention that the original leads are NOT soldered onto the battery in the conventional sense...they are attached with specialized equipment similar to a mini spot-welder.
Is it absolutely necessary to use the conductive tape to get the least impedance or would flattening and spreading the wire leads a bit and then using the electrical tape wound tightly be sufficient? I don’t have any conductive tape. What about an aluminum foil tab (no adhesive) then electrical tape?
Wish I'd seen this video before I soldered the terminals on my CR2032. I guess I was very lucky because I used a low power soldering iron and very little. solder. Thank you for posting this!
Excellent video! I need two of these to be connected in series, for my Pismo G3 Powerbook that i'm trying to revive. Could you please make a video on how that's done?
Welcome! I have a Lombard, but its PRAM and I think its rechargable, so do we need rechargable cells even I guess. I'm trying to find it, I will let you know if I solve it.
Thank you, my husband messed up my laptop cmos batt tried harder to solder the new one😀, since my laptop is old no cmos batt available anymore..so here's the video that would help.
You are welcome. I can't remember which size I got but from what I can remember it was inexpensive, so perhaps get a short length of both to be on the safe side. Thanks for the comment
Great Video. Should copper tape be double sided? How thick? 1.0, 1.4, 3 mil 5 mil 10 mil? Can we get links to the copper and insulated tapes you used in the video?
It seems like history is repeating itself. Both of these ideas crossed my mind: soldering the wires onto the battery directly, or wrapping the wires in place with insulation tape and then adding a heat shrink for good measure. The latter seemed most convenient as I don't like to solder. But wow! Good thing I found your video and saw what can happen if you try to solder onto a battery. So not only is taping it together more convenient, it's also the secure way to do it. Short of only doing it professionally with a spot welder, like they do in the factory. But why use a copper tape I wonder? I have never used one before. Is the adhesive conductive on this type of tape? I could not find a definitive answer to this fairly simple question from local suppliers. Apparently, people that buy copper tape are mainly concerned with snail invasion, so it's sold as a pesticide. They don't really care if it's conductive or not, as long as it keeps the snails away from their plants. LOL! I had a good laugh at this! :) It's the first time I hear about this. I learned something new about snails in my search for conductive tape. So they know that it works for snails, but they can't tell if only the top side of the tape is conductive or if both top and bottom side are conductive. I know there are such things as conductive adhesives or glues. But since a single roll costs about 9€ (about 8£) and I didn't know if it would work, I decided to get it elsewhere (or not at all). I think I will order online, along with the appropriately sized heat shrink tubes. The CR2032 is 20 mm in diameter and the biggest heat shrink tube I have is 19 mm wide and it won't go on even if I push it. So I will get the right size and some copper tape (to satisfy my curiosity about conductivity). I might as well skip the copper tape. I have preserved the battery terminals by prying them up and then flattening them out with pliers. I found a guy from Latin America (Argentina) did the same, and then he rolled them up a little bit like hooks, and then just taped them to the battery. That way you get more volume to press against the battery as you wrap the tape around! Clever! He also added a small piece of tape in between the wires to prevent shorts. You can see his video here: th-cam.com/video/svtG4ypcKQA/w-d-xo.html It's hard to believe that people are still changing their CMOS batteries this way. It's a good thing that we still can change the batteries on electronic devices. I'm currently doing some work on a 22 years old Fujitsu Siemens laptop for an acquaintance of mine, and I measured the battery voltage to 0.43 V. It's no wonder both BIOS and Windows were complaining about wrong date and time. I have a handful of these CR2032 and a mix of other button cell batteries, brand new and recently purchased. I just had to improvise to get one in. I have not worked on a laptop before that didn't have a CR2032 socket. It must be the very old ones that didn't have a socket for a CMOS battery. In any case, thanks for the video!
Same. If I'm doing all this to avoid waiting for shipping (amazon can get me one in 2 days) and save a buck or two, but I have to buy conductive tape, heat shrink sleeves and a heat gun? How long for all that to arrive and how much more expensive than a battery? I have a feeling that just wrapping it well in electrical tape and calling it a day would be fine in most cases.
OMG, that was short doing a big mistake! I'm just changing the battery and heating up my soldering station for soldering the battery. Thank you for saving me! It is an old Thinkpad 600e I'm changing the battery. Thanx for the video! Good job! Lupo
One hint after replacing the new battery in place: Check the thickness! In my case the shrinking insulation hose was too much. So it didn't fit into the battery bay. The insulation tape was the maximum I can wrap the battery around otherwise it will not fit. Lupo
I actually would like to know if you could do it the other way around. I have a good offer for one with the connector and want to know if I can just strip everything from it and be left with a regular button battery
Good morning ;-) 1. The correct type of CMOS battery for your computer 2. Conductive tape 3. Insulation tape 4. Heat shrink sleeving You can see a video of heat shrink sleeving here- th-cam.com/video/EaeAul6qCxw/w-d-xo.html
You were just The guy I'm looking for. I have plenty of 2032 but a dead cmos... And now I don't even have to sotter it 🤣 Really useful video I really appreciate you mate
@Ultimate Handyman I have an older 2009-ish model Dell Alienware M17x with dual 5780 ATI cards. I took the CMOS batter out and tried replacing it with a new one I bought online however I couldn't get the plug to go back in. Is it possible I broke something. It seems like the plug is too big to fit and I'm unable to force it. I wish I'd saw you're tip sooner I then could maybe have just unwrapped the old battery and replaced it with a new one while keeping the same plug. Really frustrating not having a BIOS that remembers its settings. Thank-you for the helpful tip. Also would you be able to show how to attach the leads into a new plug?
Perhaps the plug is the incorrect type (I think you can get different sizes) Might be worth getting a magnifying glass, to inspect the pins, to ensure they are not damaged 👍
Ah, conductive tape . . . Well, I'm just now seeing this video, and I used electrical tape exclusively, but thankfully it still worked. I guess, as long as you do it in a way where each wire remains exclusively touching on one side of the "coin" (without those wires ever touching each other), you'll get by. Apparently, this CR3025W, is simply a CR3025 with a wire and connector attached to it. I had to replace one of these in an Intel NUC. I'll buy some conductive tape for the next time. Thanks.
Best method is to spot weld, like they do on these from the beginning. It's possible normally to just rip off the old weld without rupturing the nickel strip. Just be careful to not short the battery, like you did when you tried to weld it. Using a little bit of electric insulating tape is all needed.
Did you try using replacement battery without that black sleeve, just with extra layer or two of electrical tape? This is merely a practical question: I don't have a heating gun, and don't want to spend $30 just to replace a $1 battery. ) Thanks!
guys BE AWARE some laptopts/netbooks uses rechargeable batteries so before you attempt this better check your batteries and confirm what you need. DO NOT attempt to recharge a non-rechargeable lithium cell. CR2032 in place of ML2032 is a bad bad idea for example eeepc models uses them. if you are desperate for alternative diy solution u can use tiny li-ion/lipo batteries salvaged from old craps, small gear like bluetooth handsfree headset thingies or similar. just remember not to put it in hot spots inside the laptop/netbook and lower the voltage near 3v. everything will be good. 3v wont be super healthy for lipo cell life and cycles either but will be safe and will work fine anyway. thats what i did.
zivizivi zivi I have an Acer TravelMate C110 with a rechargeable lithium battery, that is almost nonexistent to find and if found it runs like $15+. according to every human I talked to, that type of battery is "not rechargeable" and yet my battery clearly says rechargeable on it after I took off all the wrapping. which left me with a 3xAA battery holder with only 2 rechargeable batteries in it tape to the lid of my netbook for almost a year. after being fed up with not having the cash/correct replacement I gave up. purchased a CR2032 and did the above trick but +included a diode+ to prevent charging. 2-3 years later I just need to find myself a new main battery.
you could do better :) there are small lipo and nimh batteries in tiny footprints. a small lipo would fix your issue im sure. some laptops uses nimh cmos batteries as well u could fit them inside somewhere if you could find them around for super cheap as well. there are many different sizes to every battery really. surely you could fit suitable chemistry and sized battery diy style easly. for last resort if you were sure there is a recharge voltage you could even ditch the battery and use small 5v super cap. would be more reliable in the long run for sure. they are available in tiny profiles as well. all of the options are more elegant than aa battery holders as u chose hehe
in response to imark7777777 @0zivizivi zivi I have an Acer TravelMate C110 with a rechargeable lithium battery, that is almost nonexistent to find and if found it runs like $15+. according to every human I talked to, that type of battery is "not rechargeable" and yet my battery clearly says rechargeable on it after I took off all the wrapping. which left me with a 3xAA battery holder with only 2 rechargeable batteries in it tape to the lid of my netbook for almost a year. after being fed up with not having the cash/correct replacement I gave up. purchased a CR2032 and did the above trick but +included a diode+ to prevent charging. 2-3 years later I just need to find myself a new main battery.
Thank you for your great video Some one gave me 12 years old but mint condition labtop It needed to replaced cmos battery I have no idea until found this clip, Thank a lot 😊😊
What type of connector do they usually use these days for those batteries? Is it something like a 1.5mm or a 2.0mm pitch? I have an ITX Z390 motherboard, and the connector for its battery is located near the rear I/O and it has under a heatsink that covers that area. Gonna be a chore to get at without taking the entire motherboard out...
This tutorial is great. I have been struggling to find the right replacement battery with the right connector. Before I try this method, does someone know if the conductive tape is essential?
@@NicCrimson I think they are called JST connectors- fave.co/3krDCOb Small electrical devices that contain batteries often use them (as well as other small electrical items)
Great video, well done; however, in the U.S., the conductive tape is about $10.00/roll, & a pack of heat shrinks is around the same. So that's around $20.00 right there, vs. an $8.00 replacement battery. I might have to hack your hack & do some workarounds. It would be great if you made a video how to do a poor man's hack if they don't have those things. I'm sure something could be worked out with aluminum foil, or maybe not even use something conductive, just tape the wires down... & then in lieu of a heat shrink, just double up on the electrical tape.
My video card is being blocked by my right angle cmos battery lol. Is there any heck to fix this??? I have a cmos battery cavity with some leads and a switch. Is there a way to solder it to the cmos cavity on the mother board. I can run the pc with no cmos battery but I won't be able to use my sata settings. Thanks a bunch. Great vid!!!
Nearly a decade later, this video was helpful for me: Lenovo wants nearly $30 for a replacement. $3 and using the heat shrink I already had in my stockpile (and electrical tape), I was back in business in the same day.
hi guys and hi handyman, well done! a question for you: my acer l3600 has a cmos battery wrapped like yours but it's connected to three wires (red, black in the middle and white)...why? and how should I connect the wires? tks 4 your videos ;)
@@ultimatehandyman I had planned to try that but finally got it to plug in using a cut off floss pick as a press down tool. I have never seen them plug in that tight. I hope I don't need to unplug for a long time. Thanks.
If the laptop manual says it uses a CR1620.. are all CR1620 non-rechargeable? In my case its a lenovo laptop and its an old one. finding the parts is difficult, so you hack would be might useful.
Thanks, needed the advice. Fixing a friends laptop and keep killing the button batteries (don't know where to get the one I need, but have cr2032's aplenty and keep killing them trying to solder leads on). This will work wonderfully. I don't know why I didn't think of this.
Wish I'd seen this a few days ago (I've got an old Lenovo X60 that I'm refurbishing and a ton of new CR2032 batts), but I've already ordered a new CMOS battery. Question for the future though, is the conductive tape necessary? I'm an admitted noob on the hardware end of things. I would have just used electrical tape to hold the leads in place. Would that be a bad thing to do?
you should never hold batteries on both poles together, because skin is conductive and you drain battery while holding it like that. should hold it on a side, where only one contact is in place
I have an old toshiba tecra a9 that needs a new cmos. This one looks like a peanut. It's got 2 CR batteries. Can I use the same trick with 2 batteries? Also what spec wires should I use? Or should I cut the original ones wires?
Friend, what is the name of this tape (conductive) you put in both sides (positive / negative), please? If possible some link of product, God bless you for help!!!
Ron Ablang It depends on the make and model of the laptop. In this Acer Aspire you have to almost strip it down to it's component parts- Acer Aspire CMOS battery | Acer Aspire losing date This Sony was much easier- laptop cmos battery
Must make sure that you're replacing the CMOS battery with the same type of battery. Some use non-rechargeable ones like the CR2032 shown in this video. Others use rechargeable ones like ML1220. You risk damaging either your laptop CMOS charging circuit or causing the replacement battery to leak/explode inside your laptop if you use a non-rechargeable in place of a rechargable battery.
👍
are all types of CR-2032 non-rechargeable?
@@naufalkharits yes, only ml2032 are rechargeable
@@williamli4422ML1220
I know this was some time ago, but actually this is not correct. Laptops us CR2032 Lithium batteries and not ML rechargeables. Also most rechargeable batteries cant reach the needed voltage or die much quicker. The CMOS system uses such little power a rechargeable isn't needed. So as long as your laptops one was CR2032 and you replace with the same you're all good
Just what I was looking for!! Was about to solder too. Mine had a contact attached to the wires already so I made it flat as possible and wrapped the electrical tape tightly around it and seems to be doing the job. I swapped out the original 1620N battery with a 2032. Same voltage, etc just 3 times more MAH. Thanks for posting
I was thinkin why not soldering a battery? What could go wrong?...but no more. Thanks
Funny!
Solder wont stick anyway
Just use gum
Thanks for making this video. You saved me probably $30. I had 3 Intel NUCs that all needed the battery replaced. Luckily the existing batteries had flat metal connectors on the ends of the wires that I was able to pull of the batteries and use to connect to the new batteries. Also, luckily, I already had some aluminum metal tape that would normally be used for sealing duct work (not duct tape, the metal kind). It worked great. I didn't have any heat shrink. I just wrapped it in electrical tape. Hopefully, it doesn't melt and make a mess for the next time I need to replace the batteries. Other than that, was glad I was able to immediately replace the batteries and save some money. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It was very useful. Also, people were complaining the ones I was going to buy on Amazon sometimes had the wires backwards. I would rather make my own and make sure they are wired correctly. Pretty pathetic quality control that a company would let that happen.
I'm glad the video helped 👍
Brilliant tutorial. I successfully replaced the CMOS battery in my HP Pavillion DV2 laptop today following your guide. I think the plastic shrink stuff that I ordered may have been a bit too wide as it didn't shrink wrap like yours did but it still did a good job and the laptop is now happily using the CMOS battery hack.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
This is probably the best instructional video on TH-cam: concise, informative, easy.
Thanks for the comment 👍
even tho it may have gray whiskers it is still relevant
Hey could u make a video stacking these positive to negative with no separation. Wrapped in tape. More power. Small pack
I can't walk away without echoing the sentiment that this is a flawless instructional video. Thanks for making this.
it's currently September 2018. I just discovered I had an old ThinkPad (not Lenovo, IBM!) T30 in storage. with mildew growing on the case because of moisture. I plug it and it boots up to windows XP! well after it gave me the error prompt that date is set incorrectly. opening it up, the CMOS battery is just like what you have in yellow shrink tubing. searched eBay found some but shipping will cost me a lot (I live in the Philippines). found this video and it's EXACTLY what I need to do!
Thanks so much from the Philippines!
I'm glad the video has helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
You can remove the wires from the original cmos battery and keep the connector intact. Use the conductive tape and the heat shrink to connect the wire to the new battery and viola, a new cmos battery ready to install.
👍
That brought back a memory! When I was about 12 (30 years ago, lol) I briefly connected a button battery to a 6V dc power supply to try and recharge it, and it exploded. I was lucky like you, nothing went near my eyes.
It's amazing the size of the explosion from such a small battery! I'm glad that you were also lucky ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I have recharged batteries like this a little, just to see if something still worked. You have to keep the charging supply small, just a little higher voltage. These batteries are made to be charged but not real fast. Hook it up to a couple AA batteries
Dude! I was just about to solder the leads on!!! You saved my butt!!!
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Believe it or not hockey tape works even better for this hack than insulation tape. When it dries from the heat generated inside the laptop - it tightens. Insulation tape does the opposite actually. It tends to expand and the glue sloughs off in a huge mess. With hockey tape you don't even need to use heat shrink pocket.
+TheHallucinati ill have to have a look at "Ice Hockey" Tape one time.. for a Conductor tape, i use Copper Slug Tape.
I'm glad i found your video i did this This evening to get my 8 year old Asus G51jx back to life. Quicker and i didn't have to wait for one to ship.
I'm glad the video has helped you ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I actually tried to solder the wires to the battery before I saw your video! Lucky there was no explosion, but the battery did get very hot!
Thanks for the tutorial, this way is MUCH better and easier :)
I'm glad you were lucky ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Yep, just did the same - even after seeing the thumbnail for this video and thinking I knew enough - the solder didn't stick to the battery surface, and by then the battery was very hot, probably ruined, but cheap, and it didn't explode - so I came back to see how it's done.
Mine exploded with a bang!
Thank you for this video. Seven years later I still found it useful for my Intel Nuc DN2820FYKH computer that had a pigtail on the CMOS battery. Transplanted it to a new battery with some tape and it is up and running again.
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I simply peeled the tabs off the dead battery, taped them to the new battery with conductive tape, wrapped in electrician's tape and good to go. Thanks for the Tut & yeah people, NO SOLDERING ON BATTERIES!
Also wanted to mention that the original leads are NOT soldered onto the battery in the conventional sense...they are attached with specialized equipment similar to a mini spot-welder.
Aldo Zuko
Thanks, I asked in the local computer shop and he said they sometimes solder the leads onto batteries. I hope they watch this ;-)
Great tip. That exploding battery was dramatic - an effective warning!
+MarkTheMorose
It was dramatic for me when the contents stuck to my forehead LOL
Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much for taking all the time and trouble to get resolve this issue....
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for the Info, you just saved me from exploding a coin battery
Thanks for the comment
thanks for the tip, 7 years later and it's still relevant. what would you recommend using as a sticky pad to adhere it to its oem location?
You can buy small double sided sticky pads to hold it in place, they are widely available- fave.co/2VTPGxN
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good job. I Actually soldered mine without any explosion but have to do it again because the battery is old, only next time I will try your method.
Thanks for the video, do you use a "conductive tape" to connect the cables to the battery right?
Yes, I used copper tape. It is widely available. Then I covered the whole battery in insulated tape.
+yahye abdulaahe
It's the same as the CMOS battery.
RTC= real time clock
***** You are my new hero ha ha >_
Broncosoft
Ha Ha ;-)
Hey, that's amazing. So can i use any this one any type of laptop even if it's a different shape battery?
Huh... I did not know that it was so easy to convert usual CMOS battery to "laptop cmos battery".
Thanks for the video!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
thanks for this its gonna save me a lot of time and money
👍
Is it absolutely necessary to use the conductive tape to get the least impedance or would flattening and spreading the wire leads a bit and then using the electrical tape wound tightly be sufficient? I don’t have any conductive tape. What about an aluminum foil tab (no adhesive) then electrical tape?
Don't worry too much about the conductive tape, it will be fine without it. That was just a belt and braces approach.
Thanks for the comment 👍
9 years old still helping them thanks you Sir
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for the hack. Helped me a lot. I used to solder it a lot with 25W soldering iron and 22 gauge solder reel.
+Syed Ibrahim
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Wish I'd seen this video before I soldered the terminals on my CR2032. I guess I was very lucky because I used a low power soldering iron and very little. solder. Thank you for posting this!
You are welcome, I'm glad you soldered it without an incident
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very useful no-nonsense instructional video. Can I use insulation tape instead of conductive tape?
Yes, absolutely
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi, thanks for the great simple procedure. I was really thinking about soldering wire onto the CMOS battery!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
me too, thanks Handyman for the great advice.
Thanks man for preventing me from trying to solder onto the battery... I was already preparing. ;)
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent video! I need two of these to be connected in series, for my Pismo G3 Powerbook that i'm trying to revive. Could you please make a video on how that's done?
Welcome! I have a Lombard, but its PRAM and I think its rechargable, so do we need rechargable cells even I guess. I'm trying to find it, I will let you know if I solve it.
Anyway if you disconnect it from the motherboard the system boots normally, no need for OF kickstart.
Thank you, my husband messed up my laptop cmos batt tried harder to solder the new one😀, since my laptop is old no cmos batt available anymore..so here's the video that would help.
👍
Was wondering how to go about doing this - and you've shown me.
Thanks.
Thank you for this video! What size heat shrink tubing should I get? 20mm? 25mm?
You are welcome.
I can't remember which size I got but from what I can remember it was inexpensive, so perhaps get a short length of both to be on the safe side.
Thanks for the comment
I got the 20mm one and it looks like it's going to work. Thank you for your reply!
Wow I literally just asked about this in the previous video and you’re the next one thanks!
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Great Video. Should copper tape be double sided? How thick? 1.0, 1.4, 3 mil 5 mil 10 mil? Can we get links to the copper and insulated tapes you used in the video?
Copper tape- fave.co/2vR4Mtf
Insulation tape- fave.co/381GkDz
Thanks for the comment 👍
Lmao that battery blowing up made me jump,I wasn't expecting that,thanks for your help pal, good video.
It made me jump at the time 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman😂I bet.
It seems like history is repeating itself. Both of these ideas crossed my mind: soldering the wires onto the battery directly, or wrapping the wires in place with insulation tape and then adding a heat shrink for good measure. The latter seemed most convenient as I don't like to solder. But wow! Good thing I found your video and saw what can happen if you try to solder onto a battery. So not only is taping it together more convenient, it's also the secure way to do it. Short of only doing it professionally with a spot welder, like they do in the factory.
But why use a copper tape I wonder? I have never used one before. Is the adhesive conductive on this type of tape? I could not find a definitive answer to this fairly simple question from local suppliers. Apparently, people that buy copper tape are mainly concerned with snail invasion, so it's sold as a pesticide. They don't really care if it's conductive or not, as long as it keeps the snails away from their plants. LOL! I had a good laugh at this! :) It's the first time I hear about this. I learned something new about snails in my search for conductive tape. So they know that it works for snails, but they can't tell if only the top side of the tape is conductive or if both top and bottom side are conductive. I know there are such things as conductive adhesives or glues. But since a single roll costs about 9€ (about 8£) and I didn't know if it would work, I decided to get it elsewhere (or not at all). I think I will order online, along with the appropriately sized heat shrink tubes. The CR2032 is 20 mm in diameter and the biggest heat shrink tube I have is 19 mm wide and it won't go on even if I push it. So I will get the right size and some copper tape (to satisfy my curiosity about conductivity).
I might as well skip the copper tape. I have preserved the battery terminals by prying them up and then flattening them out with pliers. I found a guy from Latin America (Argentina) did the same, and then he rolled them up a little bit like hooks, and then just taped them to the battery. That way you get more volume to press against the battery as you wrap the tape around! Clever! He also added a small piece of tape in between the wires to prevent shorts. You can see his video here: th-cam.com/video/svtG4ypcKQA/w-d-xo.html
It's hard to believe that people are still changing their CMOS batteries this way. It's a good thing that we still can change the batteries on electronic devices. I'm currently doing some work on a 22 years old Fujitsu Siemens laptop for an acquaintance of mine, and I measured the battery voltage to 0.43 V. It's no wonder both BIOS and Windows were complaining about wrong date and time. I have a handful of these CR2032 and a mix of other button cell batteries, brand new and recently purchased. I just had to improvise to get one in. I have not worked on a laptop before that didn't have a CR2032 socket. It must be the very old ones that didn't have a socket for a CMOS battery. In any case, thanks for the video!
Wish I had these tools, maybe one day. For now I'll wait on shipping. Thank you for this cool video
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Same. If I'm doing all this to avoid waiting for shipping (amazon can get me one in 2 days) and save a buck or two, but I have to buy conductive tape, heat shrink sleeves and a heat gun? How long for all that to arrive and how much more expensive than a battery? I have a feeling that just wrapping it well in electrical tape and calling it a day would be fine in most cases.
The best tutorial on youtube. Thanks man!
Glad it helped 👍
OMG, that was short doing a big mistake! I'm just changing the battery and heating up my soldering station for soldering the battery. Thank you for saving me! It is an old Thinkpad 600e I'm changing the battery. Thanx for the video! Good job! Lupo
I’m glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman You're welcome!
One hint after replacing the new battery in place: Check the thickness! In my case the shrinking insulation hose was too much. So it didn't fit into the battery bay. The insulation tape was the maximum I can wrap the battery around otherwise it will not fit. Lupo
Must I use the 2 different types of tape or can I just use electrical tape for both tape types?
It will probably work with just the insulation tape, the conductive tape is just to guarantee a good contact between the wire and battery.
CMOS battery is the one for resetting your clock time and zone?
I actually would like to know if you could do it the other way around. I have a good offer for one with the connector and want to know if I can just strip everything from it and be left with a regular button battery
Good morning friend. What are the materials you use in the video? Mostly what you use after the electrical tape.
Good morning ;-)
1. The correct type of CMOS battery for your computer
2. Conductive tape
3. Insulation tape
4. Heat shrink sleeving
You can see a video of heat shrink sleeving here- th-cam.com/video/EaeAul6qCxw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you friend, enjoyed the video, and I'm very thankful for your quick and comprehensive response.
Cyber Sun Games
You are welcome ;-)
You were just The guy I'm looking for. I have plenty of 2032 but a dead cmos...
And now I don't even have to sotter it 🤣 Really useful video I really appreciate you mate
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks Handyman, gonna give you a shout out when I do this hack for my laptop!
2 years and still no sign of a shoutout 😅
7 Years Now
LOL😂
saved me a lot of time ordering that crappy cmos battery, thanks Ultimate Handyman!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
@Ultimate Handyman I have an older 2009-ish model Dell Alienware M17x with dual 5780 ATI cards. I took the CMOS batter out and tried replacing it with a new one I bought online however I couldn't get the plug to go back in. Is it possible I broke something. It seems like the plug is too big to fit and I'm unable to force it. I wish I'd saw you're tip sooner I then could maybe have just unwrapped the old battery and replaced it with a new one while keeping the same plug. Really frustrating not having a BIOS that remembers its settings. Thank-you for the helpful tip. Also would you be able to show how to attach the leads into a new plug?
Perhaps the plug is the incorrect type (I think you can get different sizes)
Might be worth getting a magnifying glass, to inspect the pins, to ensure they are not damaged 👍
Ah, conductive tape . . . Well, I'm just now seeing this video, and I used electrical tape exclusively, but thankfully it still worked. I guess, as long as you do it in a way where each wire remains exclusively touching on one side of the "coin" (without those wires ever touching each other), you'll get by. Apparently, this CR3025W, is simply a CR3025 with a wire and connector attached to it. I had to replace one of these in an Intel NUC. I'll buy some conductive tape for the next time. Thanks.
Thanks for the demo Chez - I wondered how you did it on your last video.
You are welcome ;-)
I did try soldering it first, until I had to go and wash the carbon that was stuck to my forehead LOL.
I thought to solder too but your video saved me. Instead I'm planning to use hotgun to solder, What is your thought?
I would not use any type of solder- just use some tape ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Best method is to spot weld, like they do on these from the beginning. It's possible normally to just rip off the old weld without rupturing the nickel strip. Just be careful to not short the battery, like you did when you tried to weld it. Using a little bit of electric insulating tape is all needed.
👍
Did you try using replacement battery without that black sleeve, just with extra layer or two of electrical tape? This is merely a practical question: I don't have a heating gun, and don't want to spend $30 just to replace a $1 battery. ) Thanks!
It will be fine, if you just use the insulation tape 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Perfect, thanks!
Instructions: Avoid exploding battery & eat gun. Hospital appointment confirmed.
Good video.
Also worth a mention, instead of the tape you can use electrically conductive wire glue.
👍
Can't believe they are selling just soldered CR2032 for $10. Thanks for the video!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great tip! I'm wondering whether you mind to show me the tips to remove broken tiny jolt on laptop. Mine is asus a46 / k46. Thanks mate!
+Nicholas T. A small screw extractor might work, but removing small bolts can be very difficult!
guys BE AWARE some laptopts/netbooks uses rechargeable batteries so before you attempt this better check your batteries and confirm what you need. DO NOT attempt to recharge a non-rechargeable lithium cell. CR2032 in place of ML2032 is a bad bad idea for example eeepc models uses them.
if you are desperate for alternative diy solution u can use tiny li-ion/lipo batteries salvaged from old craps, small gear like bluetooth handsfree headset thingies or similar. just remember not to put it in hot spots inside the laptop/netbook and lower the voltage near 3v. everything will be good. 3v wont be super healthy for lipo cell life and cycles either but will be safe and will work fine anyway. thats what i did.
zivizivi zivi I have an Acer TravelMate C110 with a rechargeable lithium battery, that is almost nonexistent to find and if found it runs like $15+. according to every human I talked to, that type of battery is "not rechargeable" and yet my battery clearly says rechargeable on it after I took off all the wrapping.
which left me with a 3xAA battery holder with only 2 rechargeable batteries in it tape to the lid of my netbook for almost a year. after being fed up with not having the cash/correct replacement I gave up. purchased a CR2032 and did the above trick but +included a diode+ to prevent charging. 2-3 years later I just need to find myself a new main battery.
you could do better :) there are small lipo and nimh batteries in tiny footprints. a small lipo would fix your issue im sure. some laptops uses nimh cmos batteries as well u could fit them inside somewhere if you could find them around for super cheap as well. there are many different sizes to every battery really. surely you could fit suitable chemistry and sized battery diy style easly. for last resort if you were sure there is a recharge voltage you could even ditch the battery and use small 5v super cap. would be more reliable in the long run for sure. they are available in tiny profiles as well. all of the options are more elegant than aa battery holders as u chose hehe
in response to imark7777777
@0zivizivi zivi
I have an Acer TravelMate C110 with a rechargeable lithium battery,
that is almost nonexistent to find and if found it runs like $15+.
according to every human I talked to, that type of battery is "not
rechargeable" and yet my battery clearly says rechargeable on it after I
took off all the wrapping.
which left me with a 3xAA battery holder
with only 2 rechargeable batteries in it tape to the lid of my netbook
for almost a year. after being fed up with not having the cash/correct
replacement I gave up. purchased a CR2032 and did the above trick but
+included a diode+ to prevent charging. 2-3 years later I just need to
find myself a new main battery.
Do I need the heat shrink? because I don't have any, could I just use the insulation/electric tape instead?
No, insulation tape will be fine ;-)
great video, thx. Why do you think some laptops use this type instead of the normal 2032 which is so easy to replace?
I'm not sure to be honest. These would be a great idea, if the battery was easily accessible.
Thanks for the comment 👍
And where you gonna connect it is in the Usb port or in the motherboard?
Thank you for your great video Some one gave me 12 years old but mint condition labtop It needed to replaced cmos battery I have no idea until found this clip, Thank a lot 😊😊
Good to hear
This is very useful info for me as my PS2's CMOS battery is suspected dead!
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you for the video :)
What type of connector do they usually use these days for those batteries? Is it something like a 1.5mm or a 2.0mm pitch?
I have an ITX Z390 motherboard, and the connector for its battery is located near the rear I/O and it has under a heatsink that covers that area. Gonna be a chore to get at without taking the entire motherboard out...
I'm not sure. I did buy some, but can't find them!
Thanks for the comment 👍
This tutorial is great. I have been struggling to find the right replacement battery with the right connector.
Before I try this method, does someone know if the conductive tape is essential?
You can get away without using the conductive tape 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Do you know what kind of connector it is and what household items have it?
@@NicCrimson I think they are called JST connectors- fave.co/3krDCOb
Small electrical devices that contain batteries often use them (as well as other small electrical items)
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you so much
@@ultimatehandyman thanks! Also helpful for me, years later :-)
My Dumbass was going to solder the wires on until i saw your video, Thanks.
Great video, well done; however, in the U.S., the conductive tape is about $10.00/roll, & a pack of heat shrinks is around the same. So that's around $20.00 right there, vs. an $8.00 replacement battery. I might have to hack your hack & do some workarounds. It would be great if you made a video how to do a poor man's hack if they don't have those things. I'm sure something could be worked out with aluminum foil, or maybe not even use something conductive, just tape the wires down... & then in lieu of a heat shrink, just double up on the electrical tape.
For a poor mans hack- just tape the wires on using insulation tape. It will probably be fine for years ;-)
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you sir!
what about a rechargable PRAM battery backup, is it working with CR2032 cells as well ?
I'm not sure about that 🤔
Thanks for the comment
No, they explode after a while
OMG i can't believe someone has posted this kind of video..you made my day ty SIRRRR @!@!@!@!@
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
You are simply awesome, really appreciate your instructions here. You are a saviour
Video of excellent quality, congratulations. I took a lot and will try to make the adjustment.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Good tip, man. I'll get some shrink wrap or something to get it nice and snug back in there again.
Thanks for the comment
I didn't know laptops had batteries in them like that! Thanks for sharing Chez!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Where did you connect it to the Usb port? Or on the motherboard?
hey, thanks for the tip. can you tell me what kind of tape that you use to stick the cable? thankyou :)
You are welcome.
I used insulation tape.
My video card is being blocked by my right angle cmos battery lol. Is there any heck to fix this??? I have a cmos battery cavity with some leads and a switch. Is there a way to solder it to the cmos cavity on the mother board. I can run the pc with no cmos battery but I won't be able to use my sata settings. Thanks a bunch. Great vid!!!
you Sire, are a legend, thanks for this. saved my computer thanks to you.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nearly a decade later, this video was helpful for me: Lenovo wants nearly $30 for a replacement. $3 and using the heat shrink I already had in my stockpile (and electrical tape), I was back in business in the same day.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
hi guys and hi handyman, well done! a question for you: my acer l3600 has a cmos battery wrapped like yours but it's connected to three wires (red, black in the middle and white)...why? and how should I connect the wires? tks 4 your videos ;)
I'm not sure about that, I have only ever seen them with two wires 🤔
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandymantake a look on eBay or Amazon, or similar, if you want. I think that the 3rd wire is for the charging feedback of device. Bye
would the isolationTape/electrical Tape do the same as the shrinking sleeve or what is this sleeve for? ty in advance
Yes, it will be fine 👍
I bought a Cmos battery with wrong style plug. What is the best way to splice wires to put old connector on new battery?
I’d strip the insulation and just twist them together, then tape with insulation tape 👍
@@ultimatehandyman I had planned to try that but finally got it to plug in using a cut off floss pick as a press down tool. I have never seen them plug in that tight. I hope I don't need to unplug for a long time. Thanks.
If the laptop manual says it uses a CR1620.. are all CR1620 non-rechargeable? In my case its a lenovo laptop and its an old one. finding the parts is difficult, so you hack would be might useful.
I'm not sure about that, sorry!
Thanks, needed the advice. Fixing a friends laptop and keep killing the button batteries (don't know where to get the one I need, but have cr2032's aplenty and keep killing them trying to solder leads on). This will work wonderfully. I don't know why I didn't think of this.
+scott flynn Thanks for the comment ;-)
Wish I'd seen this a few days ago (I've got an old Lenovo X60 that I'm refurbishing and a ton of new CR2032 batts), but I've already ordered a new CMOS battery. Question for the future though, is the conductive tape necessary? I'm an admitted noob on the hardware end of things. I would have just used electrical tape to hold the leads in place. Would that be a bad thing to do?
The electrical tape should be fine. I only used conductive tape as I had a lot of it ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks. Websites seem to be charging ridiculous prices for these RTC batteries, all because they have a proprietary connector.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
May i ask again ? What did u use again tape ? I didnt catch what did u say there bro, thanks man!
Insulation tape, it's what electricians use to insulate wires- fave.co/3w610X1
Thanks for the comment 👍
now I'm searching for the 2pin socket for this. BTW thanks for the tutorial. :)
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
guys i need help!! whats the name of that little plug i have to buy one because the little wires that are atached to it are removed
I'm not sure, but hopefully someone else will answer
you should never hold batteries on both poles together, because skin is conductive and you drain battery while holding it like that. should hold it on a side, where only one contact is in place
Thanks, I was not aware of that.
Thanks for the comment
genius as always.. Happy New Year..
Happy new year
Thanks for the comment
Top drawer mate. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thank you! Cheers! 👍
I have a question, can I connect a 3.7v battery to the BIOS?
I have an old toshiba tecra a9 that needs a new cmos. This one looks like a peanut. It's got 2 CR batteries.
Can I use the same trick with 2 batteries? Also what spec wires should I use? Or should I cut the original ones wires?
Yes, I do not see why not.
I'd use the original wires, it's much easier ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman yes that makes sense now 😅
Is there anything different I must do with a double battery cmos?
Good solution if you have all the things required. Else it's much cheaper to buy the full thing. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Friend, what is the name of this tape (conductive) you put in both sides (positive / negative), please?
If possible some link of product, God bless you for help!!!
It’s just known as conductive tape, but might have other names too. Example here- bit.ly/3FKZ5hQ
👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks friend
You don't need conductive tape.
I used foil tape which is very sticky and it worked fine.
Is the CMOS battery easily accessible under one of the screwed-in hatches, or is it somewhere else?
Ron Ablang
It depends on the make and model of the laptop. In this Acer Aspire you have to almost strip it down to it's component parts-
Acer Aspire CMOS battery | Acer Aspire losing date
This Sony was much easier-
laptop cmos battery