I just installed my fp manifold and MAP 02 housing on my 9 it was such a pain and you’re right about those two bolts on the manifold the stock ones are too short lol I never removed the radiator tho if I were to be removing my turbo then yeah I would’ve done it exactly like you did , great video 👍🏻
Word of caution: I have heard that SS hardware is not ideal for this application due to the heat. I think I read that the SS becomes brittle? I believe ExtremePSI has the longer bolts that are needed www.extremepsi.com/store/OEM-Manifold-to-Turbo-Bolt-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html and then you apparently supposed to use the factory turbo washers with are kind of a concave spring washer that allows for heating and cooling of the assemblies (there was a thread on EvoM about this) www.extremepsi.com/store/OEM-Turbo-to-Manifold-Washers-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html I used the washers when swapping to a ported stock manifold in addition to ordering the factory bolts from ExtremePSI I am not sure how necessary all of that proper hardware is, but IIRC there were some people on the EvoM thread claiming they had bolts backing out until they got those washers... Actually I think it was the thread where FP announced this exact manifold. Can't remember 100%
@@d-evolution1309 i agree the nuts and washers being stainless should pose minimal problems if any. Edit: what material are the longer bolts that you got? Those were my biggest concern if any. Just lookin' out. I've been interested in this manifold for a good while myself. I currently run a stock ported mani so technically I'm ok as is. However, I love the idea that there is another cast manifold on the market with increased flow and keeps the stock, throaty exhaust tone whereas most tube manifolds make evos sound like Hondas.
@@BLACKzj52 the longer ones for the turbo to manifold are 10.9 grade steel with a zinc coating. I think they are 10.9 I will have to double check You can use stainless if what you have is coming off and back on regularly. Stainless bolts are bad if you plan to install and leave for 100k miles for exhaust manifold or turbo. This is a toy car. Maybe 3k miles a year tops. I should be ok
@@d-evolution1309 Right on. Mine is currently my DD so I was looking at it from that perspective. Hoping to possibly go this same (or close to the same) setup maybe this summer or fall. Definitely want a "red spec" turbo, still going back and forth on O2 dump, and could maybe to FP manifold too.
I just installed my fp manifold and MAP 02 housing on my 9 it was such a pain and you’re right about those two bolts on the manifold the stock ones are too short lol I never removed the radiator tho if I were to be removing my turbo then yeah I would’ve done it exactly like you did , great video 👍🏻
Thanks
Word of caution: I have heard that SS hardware is not ideal for this application due to the heat. I think I read that the SS becomes brittle?
I believe ExtremePSI has the longer bolts that are needed
www.extremepsi.com/store/OEM-Manifold-to-Turbo-Bolt-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html
and then you apparently supposed to use the factory turbo washers with are kind of a concave spring washer that allows for heating and cooling of the assemblies (there was a thread on EvoM about this)
www.extremepsi.com/store/OEM-Turbo-to-Manifold-Washers-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html
I used the washers when swapping to a ported stock manifold in addition to ordering the factory bolts from ExtremePSI
I am not sure how necessary all of that proper hardware is, but IIRC there were some people on the EvoM thread claiming they had bolts backing out until they got those washers... Actually I think it was the thread where FP announced this exact manifold. Can't remember 100%
Yea stainless can get brittle. The studs arent stainless it the washers and nuts that are. I think they should be ok
@@d-evolution1309 i agree the nuts and washers being stainless should pose minimal problems if any.
Edit: what material are the longer bolts that you got? Those were my biggest concern if any. Just lookin' out.
I've been interested in this manifold for a good while myself. I currently run a stock ported mani so technically I'm ok as is. However, I love the idea that there is another cast manifold on the market with increased flow and keeps the stock, throaty exhaust tone whereas most tube manifolds make evos sound like Hondas.
@@BLACKzj52 the longer ones for the turbo to manifold are 10.9 grade steel with a zinc coating. I think they are 10.9 I will have to double check
You can use stainless if what you have is coming off and back on regularly. Stainless bolts are bad if you plan to install and leave for 100k miles for exhaust manifold or turbo. This is a toy car. Maybe 3k miles a year tops. I should be ok
@@d-evolution1309 Right on. Mine is currently my DD so I was looking at it from that perspective.
Hoping to possibly go this same (or close to the same) setup maybe this summer or fall. Definitely want a "red spec" turbo, still going back and forth on O2 dump, and could maybe to FP manifold too.
You could just bed the hardlines for the coolant
Is this journal bearing or ball bearing? And do you know if there’s much difference on the install?
This was a journal bearing. The ball bearing installation is no different
First!