SWEET! luv the pulling over of the tubing on the solder nub end of the connectors, not even my 300.00 machines were built like that, which is why I need to unground/rebuild one or two of them. This kind of open, honest sharing brings tattooing into the True craftsman's world.
Forget the haters bro! Who cares if ya think its crooked or not or if ya use a belt sander or whatever it is that ya want to complain bout! The point here is that sincityirons just made a set of coils while showing technology he uses and that's awesome!! Thank you for the video and all the info you just shared here.. I've always used rotary machines and lately been working a bit with coils and wanted to know about the coils and ya showed me a lot and I hope to save up enough $$ to pick up a set of your machines to use here at cowboy ink in northern California.. I lived in Texas for ten years and can tell your from the south buy your voice so send me a damn whataburger!! I miss them lol... Keep up the works brother
Great video's buddy.I own Soldier Ink in columbus ohio and I have been buying machines all my years because I never have time to build due to work and two kids.I have had capaciters explode,machines just stick and not release crazy shit! I appreciate you doing this video,I will be building my own from now on.I like your style buddy,nothing is ''perfect'' in this industry,just done right from person to person to the best of there knowledge.Anyway thanks though...III%
Great video! I always look forward to your next! I'm tossing this question out to several artists on you tube ; could you please explain the effect of the different types of a-bars on different machines, longer vs shorter, heavier vs lighter and different combinations of the two, and WHAT they are best suited for?
Heavier a bars are meant for shading and color packing but longer ones bring the gap between the saddle and a bar smaller changing your tension on the rear spring making your machine run faster which with the combo of a lighter a bar would be great for lining but you always want heavier a bars for color packing and shading depending on what spring gauge u use
I like this video. so before I ask my questions I did some research on a few things,got a few good answers but I'd like to hear from you. first off in science class I was told that gold is a better conductor of electricity am i wrong? the only thing is gold would cost more and gold doesn't tarnish from current like silver which is why copper is used I get that but gold would hold a better current. number2 I was thinking of making my own idea of a super shader, you know bigger gauge wire more wrapping like 15 which would slow the machine way down but its just a thought you did say you can't wrap to much because of the overall coil size but again if I use a smaller gauge wire the highrer the number the smaller the diameter the wire should I not be able to wrap more to get a better shader. in your videos you do 8wrap I know the 10wrap is good for shading but what about color packing and such and one off machines? before I started tattooing years ago I knew how to break a machine down and build it back but to make from nothing is why I have so many questions best video award to you
malik shah Hey man, I'm a new builder, so I'm not saying my advice is gold....I do have some engineering knowledge though. I started building my own coils, and I make some great ones now after a hard learning curve. And from a scientific standpoint, like dudes saying the lower the microfarad, the shorter of a time it will hold a charge, and hence the quicker is will discharge the held current back into the circuit. So from my experience so far, I've found that a 47uf/50v axial IC works great for a shader. And a 22uf/63 v axial capacitor works like a boss for a power liner. I did a build for a Washington tattooist, one of my first custom requests, and nailed it with the 22uf. I would, however, not exceed 63v if your going to use a 22uf for a liner. Don't mean to ramble, but you could make a beast shader as long as you have your front binding post more towards the front, or a little past the front coil, and you got your contact screw, and spring gauge set up for that. I've myself disregarded that whole 8 layer=liner, and 10 and 12-shader. That's some serious garbage man. Best of luck, Seth.
This has nothing to do with the video, but I just took apart a cheap clip cord that came with my machines. I unsoldered the wiring, and rewired it with 16 gauge speaker wire. Now my machines run at a lower voltage. I just wanted to throw that tip out there for people struggling with really high voltage problems. Maybe you could make a video on it?
Dont stress make sure cores are insulated then after you wrap each coil make sure each coil has a low resistance using an voltmeter. If that test is good then coils are fine the problem is in assembly. If u assemble and and test resistance again and the set is good then your problem happens when u mount them on the frame. If this is the case check all insulating washers on frame. Make sure no washer is damaged or split
Matthew Miller I think he's done, but I build some great coils if interested. Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/142326123088 That lot is older builds, so they're going for 15.00 a set. Only 15 sets available. They run very nice. I use all quality parts. Custom orders available upon request and PayPal payment. Next batch is going to be a dozen. I'm still working on em, so they won't be up for awhile yet. If the link sucks, you can find my ebay listing under Look's Tattoo. You can reach me at: seth.j.look@gmail.com or 530-334-3434. I also do frame design and builds. Can fabricate most, not all, custom parts. And finally fix shitty Chinese ebay kits to run at 50% duty cycle. Feel free to contact me. sincerely, Seth.
Matthew Miller I think he's done, but I build some great coils if interested. Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/142326123088 That lot is older builds, so they're going for 15.00 a set. Only 15 sets available. They run very nice. I use all quality parts. Custom orders available upon request and PayPal payment. Next batch is going to be a dozen. I'm still working on em, so they won't be up for awhile yet. If the link sucks, you can find my ebay listing under Look's Tattoo. You can reach me at: seth.j.look@gmail.com or 530-334-3434. I also do frame design and builds. Can fabricate most, not all, custom parts. And finally fix shitty Chinese ebay kits to run at 50% duty cycle. Feel free to contact me. sincerely, Seth.
Seth Look I would like to buy powerful liner, colour pack and shader tattoo machine build by you....so I live in Nepal....can you deliver that machine to Nepal?
Are you done making videos etc? I have left several messages at your shop number, tried to contact you through FB and once again not one reply back, whats up with that??? You sure dont make it easy to buy a machine from you Mike.
Hello there! Have you considered - Kezneks Impressive Tattoos Pop (google it)? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my buddy made some cool tattoo designs with it
SWEET! luv the pulling over of the tubing on the solder nub end of the connectors, not even my 300.00 machines were built like that, which is why I need to unground/rebuild one or two of them. This kind of open, honest sharing brings tattooing into the True craftsman's world.
Hats off too you sin city ...Wish there were more vets out there sharing info like this ....a gem thanks again
Been wanting to build some custom coils for myself and this video is gonna help me out a lot! thanks man!
Thank you for the information regarding polarized and non polarized capacitors, and how they are soldered.
Forget the haters bro! Who cares if ya think its crooked or not or if ya use a belt sander or whatever it is that ya want to complain bout! The point here is that sincityirons just made a set of coils while showing technology he uses and that's awesome!! Thank you for the video and all the info you just shared here.. I've always used rotary machines and lately been working a bit with coils and wanted to know about the coils and ya showed me a lot and I hope to save up enough $$ to pick up a set of your machines to use here at cowboy ink in northern California.. I lived in Texas for ten years and can tell your from the south buy your voice so send me a damn whataburger!! I miss them lol... Keep up the works brother
thank you for the wisdom! very much appreciated.
My pleasure!
Great video's buddy.I own Soldier Ink in columbus ohio and I have been buying machines all my years because I never have time to build due to work and two kids.I have had capaciters explode,machines just stick and not release crazy shit! I appreciate you doing this video,I will be building my own from now on.I like your style buddy,nothing is ''perfect'' in this industry,just done right from person to person to the best of there knowledge.Anyway thanks though...III%
Great video! I always look forward to your next! I'm tossing this question out to several artists on you tube ; could you please explain the effect of the different types of a-bars on different machines, longer vs shorter, heavier vs lighter and different combinations of the two, and WHAT they are best suited for?
Heavier a bars are meant for shading and color packing but longer ones bring the gap between the saddle and a bar smaller changing your tension on the rear spring making your machine run faster which with the combo of a lighter a bar would be great for lining but you always want heavier a bars for color packing and shading depending on what spring gauge u use
Thanks for all the advice , God bless. ! Thanks man.!
Thanks for the regalo 🎉
Right on thanks for watching
I like this video. so before I ask my questions I did some research on a few things,got a few good answers but I'd like to hear from you. first off in science class I was told that gold is a better conductor of electricity am i wrong? the only thing is gold would cost more and gold doesn't tarnish from current like silver which is why copper is used I get that but gold would hold a better current. number2 I was thinking of making my own idea of a super shader, you know bigger gauge wire more wrapping like 15 which would slow the machine way down but its just a thought you did say you can't wrap to much because of the overall coil size but again if I use a smaller gauge wire the highrer the number the smaller the diameter the wire should I not be able to wrap more to get a better shader. in your videos you do 8wrap I know the 10wrap is good for shading but what about color packing and such and one off machines? before I started tattooing years ago I knew how to break a machine down and build it back but to make from nothing is why I have so many questions best video award to you
malik shah
Hey man,
I'm a new builder, so I'm not saying my advice is gold....I do have some engineering knowledge though.
I started building my own coils, and I make some great ones now after a hard learning curve. And from a scientific standpoint, like dudes saying the lower the microfarad, the shorter of a time it will hold a charge, and hence the quicker is will discharge the held current back into the circuit. So from my experience so far, I've found that a 47uf/50v axial IC works great for a shader. And a 22uf/63 v axial capacitor works like a boss for a power liner. I did a build for a Washington tattooist, one of my first custom requests, and nailed it with the 22uf. I would, however, not exceed 63v if your going to use a 22uf for a liner. Don't mean to ramble, but you could make a beast shader as long as you have your front binding post more towards the front, or a little past the front coil, and you got your contact screw, and spring gauge set up for that. I've myself disregarded that whole 8 layer=liner, and 10 and 12-shader. That's some serious garbage man.
Best of luck,
Seth.
This has nothing to do with the video, but I just took apart a cheap clip cord that came with my machines. I unsoldered the wiring, and rewired it with 16 gauge speaker wire. Now my machines run at a lower voltage. I just wanted to throw that tip out there for people struggling with really high voltage problems. Maybe you could make a video on it?
i did make a video called "voltage loss power bleed" good tip though and your on right track no doubt. check out that video for some kewl tips also
I will.Thank you
No matter what i do coils wont turn on what I'm doing wrong like theres no power to them please help
Dont stress make sure cores are insulated then after you wrap each coil make sure each coil has a low resistance using an voltmeter. If that test is good then coils are fine the problem is in assembly. If u assemble and and test resistance again and the set is good then your problem happens when u mount them on the frame. If this is the case check all insulating washers on frame. Make sure no washer is damaged or split
@@InsightfulImagery thanks man i found out the problem now my coils run amazing on low volts
Way to go glad to hear it
hey i was wondering do you sale your coils ?
Matthew Miller
I think he's done, but I build some great coils if interested.
Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/142326123088
That lot is older builds, so they're going for 15.00 a set. Only 15 sets available. They run very nice. I use all quality parts. Custom orders available upon request and PayPal payment.
Next batch is going to be a dozen. I'm still working on em, so they won't be up for awhile yet.
If the link sucks, you can find my ebay listing under Look's Tattoo.
You can reach me at: seth.j.look@gmail.com or 530-334-3434. I also do frame design and builds. Can fabricate most, not all, custom parts. And finally fix shitty Chinese ebay kits to run at 50% duty cycle.
Feel free to contact me.
sincerely,
Seth.
Matthew Miller
I think he's done, but I build some great coils if interested.
Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/142326123088
That lot is older builds, so they're going for 15.00 a set. Only 15 sets available. They run very nice. I use all quality parts. Custom orders available upon request and PayPal payment.
Next batch is going to be a dozen. I'm still working on em, so they won't be up for awhile yet.
If the link sucks, you can find my ebay listing under Look's Tattoo.
You can reach me at: seth.j.look@gmail.com or 530-334-3434. I also do frame design and builds. Can fabricate most, not all, custom parts. And finally fix shitty Chinese ebay kits to run at 50% duty cycle.
Feel free to contact me.
sincerely,
Seth.
Seth Look I would like to buy powerful liner, colour pack and shader tattoo machine build by you....so I live in Nepal....can you deliver that machine to Nepal?
Wats up. Hey can I send u my machines so u can tune them for me plz thnx
your the man!
Are you done making videos etc? I have left several messages at your shop number, tried to contact you through FB and once again not one reply back, whats up with that??? You sure dont make it easy to buy a machine from you Mike.
Your website ain't valid anymore. Good videos
Hello there! Have you considered - Kezneks Impressive Tattoos Pop (google it)? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my buddy made some cool tattoo designs with it
i need some gun s mann i like what you du ;-)