Do THIS Every Time You Buy A New Chainsaw Chain! How to avoid your chain from popping off.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ย. 2023
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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i know my chainsaws through n through
watch all these types of videos and none are right. to my surprise i found one thats all correct and thoroughly impressed its a good looking womans video
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@@JnitraM078 Really! Thanks for letting me know! I had no idea.
It's worth mentioning to make sure your saw is oiling properly/bar grooves and oil hole are clear. Lack of oil will cause a chain to stretch due to excess heat from friction.
also worth mentioning that a good brand of bar oil will cost more, but it will provide much better lubrication than the discount brand.
@@kenbrown2808 true. Stihl oil isn't what it used to be. I've tried both echo, and fram from advance auto parts and been happy with both. Boswell is the best I've ever tried if you can find it.
@@kenbrown2808 Good can be had for a discount just need to figure out which is which.
Right on, I could not agree more!
I saw she had a piece of cardboard near where she was running the saw.. I assume this was to check the spray pattern of the oiler.😀
Hi, I am 61 yrs. old and have been using chainsaws since I was 15yrs old, yet I never knew to look for 3 drivers to be free of the bar when you lift it. So, you just earned a new subscriber. I would like to also tell you that you are a very good teacher and I am a man that is not afraid to be taught by a younger woman. I don't have the problem of chains coming off but I have been running my chains too tight all these years. Thanks Luke.
I always do 2 w the 3 rd tip almost out
3 it’s is
3 drivers out of the groove is too loose for my taste. Never threw a chain on any saw.
@@savage22bolt32in vide did look like a gap more than I would prefer I 50% of the time lift the bar. Yes new will stretch I'm a novice did not know about the chain catcher at bottom. That was really nice she has the set up for making her chain size not sure cost of them tools yet good to know
@@duke6024 Yesterday, I let my chain get a a little loose. I was up in a tree, pinched the bar and pulled the chain off. Glad I was wearing gloves! Got the chain back on and was really careful on the last few limbs.
Generally, I tend to like tighter rather than looser chain slack.
Everyone who sees this, should share it, and keep the chain going.
67 years old and did not know this information. Great video, thank you
Watched a guy who uses chainsaws everyday. He takes the cover off the chain drive clutch assembly an completely cleans all the craps out of the casing, cleans the bar and chain and lubes them. He then mixes fuel for next day and tops up his bar oil. On starting each day he checks chain is being oiled by revving engine and seeing some oil being thrown off. A professional at work!
They say "cleanliness is next to godliness", but with a chainsaw, it's next to impossible.
Ha! He forgot to lube the bar sprocket!
A professional or just not a lazy jock strap?
I enjoyed your video, I'm 70 and have used chainsaws for 50 years...that being said, you have taught me today. My Grandpa told me something when I was eight years old.... when you stop learning, they are shoveling dirt on your face... thank you for today's lesson!
I didn't expect that a women do such a job fixies the saws and understands these things better than an average man
Hi Bree, This is one of the best videos I've watched from your channel. I have a training company here in South Africa and one of my courses are "Safe handling of chainsaws". I thought I knew a lot concerning chainsaws, but you have taught me lot more. Thanks again.
One of the best ways to keep your drive links from getting beaten up when the chain comes off, is to purchase an Oregon rim style clutch drum and rim appropriate to you r chain size. The 'star' sprockets have six to seven teeth (generally). When the chain comes off, it will drop down and the teeth of the star type sprocket have their way with the chain. A rim type sprocket has a smooth outer surface with nothing there to damage the chain. There are small slots in the outer face of the rim sprocket that the drive links fit into.
Chain saws have been a huge part of my life for over 60 years. I have been a vocational forestry instructor in high schools, taught log building for many years and for felling timber on our property and while working with and for loggers. The single greatest thing you can do to improve your safety outcomes is to learn to file the sharpen the chain. Do not be intimidated by hand filing a saw chain. Once you learn the basic principles of how the chain works, it becomes very intuitive on how to sharpen a saw. Learning to file is about 10% knowledge and 90% practice. Once you learn to file a saw, you will be amazed at how easy it is and that you can keep your chain sharp while working all day long. I purchased an expensive, pro quality chain grinder over 20 years ago because I thought it might help my crew members. I used it once and it has been gathering dust ever since. It is easy to touch up your chain with a couple light strokes on each tooth every time you fill up your saw with fuel. It will give you a break in your work routine which will make you safer on the job. You will put out far less effort when cutting with a sharp chain which again makes you safer. Your chains will also last much longer if you keep the chain sharp. Learning to had file is a benefit all the way around. Remember.......10% knowledge and 90% practice and you will be a safer saw operator if you take the time to know your equipment.
Check your sprocket as well and soak your chain in chain oil also helps
Great video. Should have seen it 40 years ago. Took a few years to figure out what you said.
When did they stop making these angels. 👼
Brilliant share, Chickanic!
I've been running chainsaws since I was 13, 49 years, and no one ever told me about the way you tension a chain, glad I found your channel. No wonder I've worn out so many bars😁
*At **9:05**, you can almost see the 'nervous sweat' trickling out of those trees. LOL*
03:25 pick stuff up, turn around, take short break to figure out where you can put it temporarily, put thing in final resting place. Such a familiar little dance :))
I just sharpened a friends chain with mushroomed drive links and assumed that it had jumped the bar. Thanks for the confirmation. Very helpful video.
Hi Love from the UK. I am retired now and I worked on every make going. Mainly Stihl and Husqvarna. I was a gold standard Husqvarna Technician. I have encountered everything that you mention and every variation that anyone can think of. The majority caused by incorrect chain tension. Generally most owner users haven't got a clue about using one of the most potentially dangerous tools that anyone can use. Some get away with it and some don't. BUT.. please use ear plugs of defenders. when you get older you WILL have hearing problems. WHAT SHE SAY... AND don't keep blipping the throttle. Raise the throttle up to full chat and then lower it back to tick over. It allows the run in of the new parts. once again great video, it brings back thoughts of all the crazy things customers did.
Any time the bar is off check the oiler hole to make sure it's clean, you're there anyway.
Excellent advice. I had no idea that new chains stretch so much. This advice is especially pertinent as I just purchased a new pole saw and 'was' planning on cutting some branches right out of the gate. Now I know how best to proceed.
A yellow or white paint pen is your friend when working with chain. Mark the link to be broken, makes it easy to identify the right link. A drop of oil on the new link helps making the spinning easier, less wear on the equipment.
Chain stretch is actually all the rivets and rivet holes seating in to each other, making the chain longer. When making a chain from a roll, you must be careful to not install the joining links upside down, or the chain will jam on the sprocket. I did that in my early days.
Nice to see a young lady making mechanic videos I’m to old to make them not a software guy just infrastructure and fixing trucks and small engines! Thank you, I share them with my kids
After watching a few times, you are a very Educated young lady and very intelligent when it comes to chainsaws. I want to thank you for this TH-cam channel, it definitely helps the new generation and even us old dogs can still learn from a person like you and you know dealing with the public sometimes there is just very little common sense, Can’t buy a book on it. You have both comment sense and very well educated and if was definitely a lot of self taught and experience for sure. Thank you 👍
Remember K-mart,I once saw chainsaw on sales floor with the chain on backwards
Just love what you share here.
Your last point about a spare chain, is dead right. In my box is a perfectly good used chain, plus a new spare spark plug, etc
Now I'm retired, when I chain wood i stop 15 mins early and use my compressor and brushes to "blow it all clean", then lovingly sharpen it, ready for tomorrow.
Looking after tools is half the fun of having them....
stopping "early" is also a good safety tip
being overly tired is when accidents happen
Great video. I’m in my 50’s female. Cutting trees and learning everything from my 80yr old dad. Your videos are so informative.
My supervisor at my last tree care company was a lady in her 60s, didn't start her career in arboriculture until her mid 40s!
Same here. Just turned 60, and quite efficient with the chainsaw, as well as safety conscious. It blows a lot of people away, especially men, to see a woman handle these machines with expertise 😊
I've been cutting for a while too. Love the work but always learning. Always respect the tool.
Just bought a 25” bar & chain for my Uncles old Stihl 056AV.
$160 !😳. 45 year old saw cuts like a beast ! 88cc
Good video, I agree with almost everything you said , BUT, I have worked with chains, both cutting and roller in industrial setting for between 30 to 40 years now retired, and was told by an old mechanic that chains do not stretch, stretching is from pulling, chains elongate which is caused by wearing at the pins resulting in increased overall length. I know this sounds like nit picking but when I taught classes the maintenace guys had a better understanding
In addition to a spare chains I have a spare bar. This is a hold over from when I only had one saw. If I misjudged tension/compression and pinched the saw, I could unbolt the powerhead, install spare blade and chain, and cut the pinched blade free. Then carefully inspect blade and chain for damage before using again.
I just learned this lesson. Put my extra bar and chain in my car (sawing offsite) just in case.
Been there, done that!
For your new chain length sticker, put a piece of thin acrylic over the top to protect it
I sell chainsaws at work. Every saw gets run before the customer leaves the shop. I always make sure the saws are oiling and advise the customer to adjust chain tension after making a few cuts despite the chains being advertised as “pre-streched”.
I appreciate your channel. I'm so damn hardheaded that I rarely take time to listen to good advice. But when I do and the info really helps, I am grateful. So, thank you.
I learn something new every time I watch your videos. I love saving time, money, and frustration! ☺️
Of course. Most ppl that watched this don’t need to be reminded.
She is the chainsaw " whisper "!
⚠️Bedding the new chain into the old sprocket is one reason the slack increases initially with the 1st few runs.
Also it beds down into the old bar groove also
Love your channel. Please leave the glasses on or off.
It messes with my head.😊
In the logging industry we "break in" new chains, get some extra oil on it once its on the saw and run at half throttle for 30 sec without any load on it, tighten up the slack and repeat then do a couple light cuts in a waste piece of wood, it effectively take a good amount of the excess stretch out of it and eliminates having to remove a link to get the full life out of the chain. If you can soak the chain in thin oil before you have to use it even better, its all about lubricating the little bearings.
Thanks young lady!!! I’ve been listening and learning
You also forgot to tell them to clean the bar guide and the clutch cover and the other side where t the oiler is sitting and clean the holes on the back of the of the bar guide that's how the bar chain gets lubrication and if you half to debur the drive links use a drimel it works alot better.
TY - as a part-time backyard "weekend warrior" from Oz, I greatly appreciate your advice on mowers/ride-ons & chainsaws - please keep doin your thing!
Found out the hard way about mushrooming the drive teeth on a new chain. Noticed the drive teeth were to snug in the bar. Spent some time on them with a file and it’s a brand new chain again. 👍😁
You are so good at teaching love your content I get a little smarter every video. ❤
Thank you for teaching me that I will never buy chain in 100' lengths. I also did not know I should lift my bar up while tightening the cover. Thank you.
Their are 2 reasons why you lift. One is that the bar will go up eventually and then the chain just become loose again. The other is so that you can take advantage of the felling sights that are built into the powerhead (engine). If the bar isn’t brought up then the sights will be off.
The chain elongates due to wear at the pivot points, but also due to heat. Don't forget to make the chain slack before you put the saw away.
"Make the chain slack before you put it away"
So smart to eliminate another mysterious cause of inadvertant chain stretching! All the logical dynamics at play which few ever even consider.
I generally have 3-5 "back up" chains with me when cutting.
Damn. That was EXTREMELY helpful to me.
Nice looking motor you have wrapped up.
Wow. Finally, an informative and complete explanation. My problem is solved. Thank you.
One little detail...
When ever you remove the chain, it's a good practice to flip the bar and clean it for even wear on both sides.
As a retired axe man of 40 yrs. You should cleanthe bar groove every time you put a new chain on. You also run your chain a little looser than I do. FYI, I hate new chains. I spend the 1st hour tightening the stretch. Great video for new saw owners. Thank you.
When cutting smaller limbs I always use the top of the bar instead of the bottom which pushes the debris away instead of pulling it in! The chain catcher on my saw is pristine the only ding on it is from when I loaned it out to someone. Great video Bre and btw awesome new shop, however I don't envy the mess you have there haha!
@@440tomcatThe top of a bar, is not the Tip.
Ya man I hear you on loaning saws. Last 2 guys I loaned a saw to broke it. Getting tired of paying for others lack of skill. No more loaning saws, they buy their own. Or any tools for that matter. Employees can be really hard on tools.
I have no brother or friend that I will loan my chain saw too.
Loaning out tools/equipment. What I've learned, if it has a motor or engine don't loan it, if it doesn't have a motor or engine still don't loan it.
top not tip ;-)@@440tomcat
Putting together videos for my grandsons to learn proper techniques this one is good.
Always take a spare saw with you , if you get jammed , can always cut the jammed one out by relieving pressure on the jammed one
LOL!!!
Cheaper to just have spare bar and chain.........
@@rider660r I think maybe you are misunderstanding I also take at least two for felling. It isn't just bar or chain which may have issues but the fact that the engine may fail. A tree left on holding wood partially cut is a life threatening situation which cannot be left.
@@fibreguy1971 Nope,been cutting for 30+ yrs for power companies,logging,storm work, clearing land privately or firewood in numerous states and if you know how to read whats going on and cut you only need 1 saw.
If your saw blows up then you better learn to maintain your saws properly also. And/or quit buying garbage like Stihl or the chinese garbage.....
I do have 2 saws,Jred 670 and 2077 both running 24" bars,they're 30 an 33 yrs old but one is for bigger trees and the other is a little smaller and the general purpose go to saw. I still only go to the woods with 1 saw.
Joe Blow homeowner shouldn't be able to just run out an purchase anything like welders,chainsaws,tow trailers,etc. just because they have the $ to do so.... they're to dumb.
I used to cut and make chains where I worked for 26 years. Hardware store with a small equipment shop on the side. Also sharpened and sold Echo chainsaws.
I agree 100%. New chain, the adjustment tool stays in the back pocket for the first tank of fuel. By then, its generally broke in. One other thing is I never like to break in a new bar with a used chain. Start new bar with new chain. Great video!
If the adjuster tool has a screwdriver end, not good in the back pocket. One trip and you don't wanna think about where it is gonna sink. Just take your jug of bar oil and put a loose zip tie on the jug handle and drop the tool into that zip tie loop.
My first proper job in 1970 was repairing mower’s trimmers chain saw etc which did for three years small business in the uk love the way you explain things in joy your blogs
Been using chainsaws for 40 years but you stihl taught me something. Thank you.
Ahhhh, i see what you did there!
I'm 43, been cuttn most my life and I can honestly say I've never thrown a chain...
Also a good idea to check the sprocket or rim sprocket when replacing a chain. If the sprocket is too worn, it can tear up a new chain. A worn chain on a new sprocket can cause premature sprocket wear.
Agree with you on that. I do every time I put a new chain on my saws and anytime i go clean them
Yup.. just had to change mine yesterday!
Grease front sprocket.
I’m surprised it wasn’t mentioned that a worn grooved sprocket can throw a chain .😁
not sure how expensive chain scales are, but maybe when you put on the new one you should screw down a piece of scrap lexan or something over it... it might get scratched up eventually, but if you screw it down you can just change it.
What is a chain scale?
I have run the same husquvarna 345 chain saw for 20+ years through many chain changes. Never once had the chain pop off. Either I'm doing something right or have just been lucky.
love your channel
I don’t know if you mentioned it in another video but a good trick is to rub a hardwood block in the reverse direction the chain runs each time you sharpen it to prevent the hardened layer peeling off!
Cut wood, heated house over 30 year. Never had chain pop off. Guess I've been fortunate because I have cut very small twigs and such now and then. So I've learned something and also the 3 link rule I didn't know. Wish your video was around 30 years ago. I'm sure many new cutters will be greatly benefited. Thanks!
I've found that trimming small twigs with the top of the bar rather than the bottom helps alleviate that problem. The chain will tend to throw off stringy debris like bark shards as it goes 'round the tip of the bar.
I had one chain stretch so much I couldn't use it, would not tighten up, and it's a Stihl, only one I've had do this.
Great video, I don't have a chain jump off often at all but noticed having to re adjust, makes sense!
Just take a link out.
As an arborist i flip my saws upside down ta slap on a fresh 1 on I like ta drop my tip on some wood holding the rear handle to adjust my chain tension.. . it works well for me iv probably put on at least 1500 in the past ten years with very little issues
That’s great info! I was taught many moons ago (over 45 years- I know I’m old) to just make new chains slightly tighter, cut for a few minutes and then check. Your way I like better because once you start cutting, you never wanted to stop.
And dont strain on clutch and engine
I get a lot help from your channel. I'm very good with large engines and diesel but small engines ,chainsaws etc not so much. Recently because of your channel I redirected two discarded chainsaws and one line trimmer. Thanks for your help.
I also find if your drive sprocket is grooved and the chain isn't sitting in the groove when you tighten it, when you start it it finds its happy place and loosens up a little.
That saw is little, but it kicks a**... Starts like a champ...
I love the sounds of chainsaws early in the morning and two stroke smoke it’s almost as good as a cup of coffee.
Great tips as usual, your shop reminds me of when my kids got ahold of it lol.
Excellent tutelage Bre! I’ve been using chainsaws for decades and still learned a few things today😊
I have a "jaw-saw". Little baby bar. I have no trouble with the chain. Loaned it to a friend, walked her thru the how-to i thought very well. She c9uld not keep the chain on to save her life. Probably sloppy tension.
Its an awesome branch cutter. No fear of kickback or cuttin the footsies off. Strictly for branches for the brain dead homeowner like me. Love the thing.
My father was a logger, he used to tell me i wouldn't be a pimple on a loggers arse. I would always tell him i dont want to be a pimple on a loggers arse, thank you very much. I get a lot of branches and this is the sheet for me. Still have all my body parts.
This is info this pimple didn't know, thanks
Issue I've had with electric trimming saw with the longer 16" to 18" Oregon bar with 3/8 skip tooth narrow sized .043 gauge chain, when cutting anything smaller than the distance between the skip tooth you can see the bar to the tip wagging like a sign wave. Must stop immediately or the chain will come off no matter what the age or adjustment of the chain is. Switched to a 10"-12" bar for the small stuff, no wagging with the shorter bar and I don't have to stop and swap out/repair the chain. My property is wooded, zoned agricultural. The electric keeps the urban sprawl HOA Karen neighbors from getting nosy annoying. Your tips here on warming up new chain, keep checking between cuts, adjust accordingly are what my dad taught me. Thanks for all your videos as my dad didn't teach me everything. lol
Thanks, Bre! Hope all is going smoothly with the shop transition, as well as the Mr's joint replacement! Stay safe
Great video. Just to let you know I'm a contractor by trade and a mechanic of none or should I say " No leaves on my shade tree mechanic skills" I just bought a new saw and it's doing this. Now I think I have one or maybe to leaves on that tree now. Thanks 👍👍
Moving slower through twig material helps immensely.
I wear a Stihl orange hard helmet with front mask.
Double on pants. Triple shirts for the sleeve protection. Keep the neck covered (sun) with an old dress shirt.
May not avoid a total injury if the chain flails off but it will not be catastrophic co-pay at the ER.
I was a first time chainsaw owner last February. I noticed after my first few cuts that my chain was a bit loose. Easy to tighten. I also learned from another that once it cools down to check that it isn't too tight with the metal contracting. I know to watch for this with a new chain.
Great video, I'm just a typical home owner that uses my saw on occasions. So this is good info that I never realized. Thank you!
LOVE what you've done with the place!
If a crowed / cluttered shop is the sign of disorganized mind,
What is an EMPTY Shop the sign of ... ???
Well I been using my 394 since 1994 and never had my chain come off that I recall
I cut thousands of cords of wood with it.
Guess i been lucky
But you did make me aware of this,
the good lord willing i will never have this problem at all.
Thanks for the knowledge
Timely video, as I just bought new chains for my little MS170 on Saturday. Decades ago I was taught to tension them to the point you couldn't easily lift *any* drivers all the way out of the groove - sounds like I've been over-tightening my chains for years.
I HAVE MADE NEW CHAINS FOR 45 YEARS. I ALWAYS SOAK THE. CHAIN IN BAR OIL FOR A FEW HOURS BEFORE INSTALLING. YOUR CHAIN WILL NOT STRETCH/WEAR NEARLY AS MUCH, AS INSTALLING A DRY CHAIN. Guaranteed
Really great explanation, thank you. I've been using chainsaws of various sizes for four years now with heavy use in the summer. It took me a while to fully appreciate how much chains stretch and the increase risk of them slipping off when rapidly removing a lot of small limbs. It's so important to routinely check the chain tension when you're making a lot of cuts. I still slip a chain now and then, although more rarely, and every time I do it, I kick myself for not making more frequent tension checks.
Really surprising how many commenters here who have run chainsaws for years that dont know this. I was taught this in 5 minutes however long ago when I first started using a chainsaw.
After a lifetime of running saws I have had over 50 chains jump off and every time the chain was tight. The burrs where the drivers are flared is caused by sudden impact with the sprocket, not the guard. These burrs cause the chain to ride on top of the bar and jump off out on the end of the bar. Nine times out of ten the sudden impact is from a pencil sized limb that is grabbed and pulled by the chain until a sudden stop for a split second flares both sides of a few drivers. The chain jumping off and hitting the guard will not leave flares evenly on both sides of the driver. I find that thinner chains are more prone to this but I've had to file burrs on my 461 with a 32 '' bar. It's the sudden impact against the sprocket from pinches and twigs that are the usual culprits. Anyone who loses a chain from being too loose is not doing their job of checking the chain at every fill-up. If the chain stretches enough to come off between refills, there is a severe lack of bar lube or you're forcing a dull chain through hard wood, heating the chain causing it to wear and elongate. The metal in the chain is not stretching, each link is actually the same, just the pins and holes wear, making the chain longer.
A few tips from a retired pro:
Check your drivers every time the chain comes off-they can be re-shaped with a flat file and a round file. Copy the other drivers for shape.
Never put a new chain on a worn floating rim sprocket. Dimensions of the new chain are larger than the recesses of the old floating rim sprocket. You can even grenade the rim sprocket.
You can put a worn chain on a new rim sprocket.
Push the bar tip down onto a wood block or whatever when you tighten the bar nuts after tightening the chain. This 'sets' the bar for work.
Tip from a logger and power right of ways..... That's BS, you can use a new chain on a worn rim. Done it for decades,only split one rim due to it being so worn the drives started to touch the clutch bell and cutting dead Black Locust. Every few chains I also flipped the rim like one should do to a bar with each chain. Same saws I bought (Jred 670 Champ an 2077) bought 30+ yrs ago are still throwing chips today.
If I had a chain jump and it gets burrs I just reinstall it loose and give it a few blips of the throttle. The burrs are gone and just retighten chain.
I used to use a die grinder to clean up the drivers after chain popped off. Thanks Bre for awesome videos!
Yup, used a dremel to do that so I could continue the slaughter 😂 the bar was damaged, don’t remember what I did, probably cut it clear with a hacksaw blade, arborvitae with rocks in it, ugh😢
Growing up in a logging family in the Northwest, chainsaw maintenance was a family affair. My grandfather used to own a saw shop also. We always cleaned the drivers with a flat file. All chains were hand sharpened. My grandfather had a powered sharpener but it was custom built by him in the 50's and was designed for the heavy duty chains on the old Homelite saws that were the size of a small car engine these days. I still have one of his old homelites. Used it a couple years ago just to say I did. I was done after a few minutes.
@@sidserv1978 my brother still has his 650 Homelite he bought about 45 years ago. I did a video of him cutting down a Creek Fire killed fir which was over 55 inches at the butt. At the time the saw was 2/3 as old as he was, and he was 69. Sometimes you need the long sword, but it takes more to run it.
@@melissasmess2773 300 miles north of nowhere in the ominica, chain jumps the bar on a willow, file the driver's pry open the track in the bar and back in business. Add more oil and good to go!
I just started running a saw a couple years ago. Its surprising how much there is to learn.
Sawing tip. Wear shorts with your chaps for freedom of movement. Put permethrin on them, and spray with deet before use in warmer waether. You get protection and no nastiness on your skin.
Learned more from this chainsaw video than any other and I’ve watched many. Thank you so much !
Good video. This is info most homeowner saw owners don't know.
Also can I just call out that the chainsaw in the video is a great example of a saw that is tuned properly. It starts easily and runs almost immediately at low idle. There should be no need to start the saw and piss rev the hell out of it to get it to idle.
It's refreshing to see others mess and pandemonium of tools and parts.
Lots of good tips here, which I learned over the years.
I think my father used to have 3 or 4 spares for his chainsaw back before he retired. In the early days he used a round file to sharpen them in the evening, then he got some sort of holder for the file, and the last years he used a dedicated grinder for it.
You never know what you're going to hit when cutting down a tree, and he was clearing fields for farms, so some might have old nails or crampons holding pieces of mesh fence or even barb wire deep in them. And since he did this mostly in warmer months, the trees were full of sap, and that also takes a toll on chains. (He didn't just cut down trees, he dug out the roots, dug trenches and laid down drainage pipes and backfilled. Not something you want to do when the ground is frozen solid.)
Saws have an uncanny ability to find the ONLY nail in a forty foot tree! Ask me how I know!!!!
@@tomrogers9467 They might just as well rename them 'Metal Debris Locators'
Great advice and thanks for your channel from Australia. I had never owned a chainsaw before but got a 14" Ego skin bundled with a multitool kit. I used it a few times and the chain popped off almost every time. Got a bit gun shy about flailing chains and basically used the pole saw for my occaisional need for one. It had been sitting in the shed and I was planning on getting rid of it when I came across this video. I'm going to get it out and work through your tips.
I think that you know more about this than the boys working in the woods here in West Virginia!
LOVE the garage. Like mine, and real world... not one of the many "Show" garages on YT.
Thanks for posting a video. Worked on small equipment for state DOT and always learn something new from your videos or refresh my memory ( month unconscious with 104 temp will do that to you!) great channel I share with friends!
Very helpful! I was having this happen with my newer saw and finally realized that I needed to check chain tension frequently. I even discovered a little tool for this stored in the saw itself!
read the manual ,which of course us guys never do .lol.
@@davidkettell1073 Even the name sounds like it's in another language!
So it is about the details is what I hear. 👍 To be safe & keep cutting.
First time visitor. Very cool delivery. I'll be back.
My uncle had a small engine shop and from the age of 6 (I am 72 now and still using a few I have at my lake property) I was using chain saws. He thought me everything you said and most of what the others were saying. Loved the Lexan cover idea one commenter had.