Your comment at the end using the term “high energy kick back” was insightful for me. I’m not a professional user, but I spend hours and hours running saws living in Alaska. I consider myself “higher level” experience wise but I haven’t ever had my saw catch something at full rpm. I honestly hadn’t really considered that as I tend to run my saw fairly slow and controlled when bucking limbs and try to keep my bar clear whenever possible doing cross cuts. That terminology did excellent to really grab my thoughts to consider what a high rpm kick back would feel like, especially when cutting trees close to a home where light arboreal work or “held high” limbing might seem like a good idea. Definitely gave me some more cues to think through running the saw. Thanks! Your content is excellently presented and I appreciate the giant props! Cheers and Shalom!
Great video. Another thing to consider is how an operator positions their body in relationship to line of travel that a kickback will follow. I see a lot of people with their head aligned over the cut or lining their entire body up with the cut. A man I know took a kickback to his right calf as a result of this. 300 stitches. 2 days later,,,,,,,gangrene. Enough said. Think.
Hi from the UK John, yet another great video, I like the detail you always go into, I have learned so much, watching your videos over the years, stay safe, and thank you Sir
I'd just like to add that even the low kick back chain with the big shark fins cuts just as fast as normal chain in wood that's smaller than 5-6 inches, in small stuff the chain doesnt get a chance to plug up with chips. I run the reduced kickback chain on my top handle, it doesnt hold it back as I never cut large wood with it. It's by far my most dangerous saw, my normal fire wood saw is way easier to control.
Kick back mostly occurs when something causes the chain velocity to slow. The best prevention is to keep the revs up and and keep small limbs away from the tip and watch for pinching the bar.
Great video. Is there a need to reshape the top of the depth gauge after it has been flattened a bit by filing so that there is once again a smooth curve leading up to its highest point/plane and not a quick transition from curved to flat? Sounds like a PITA but I've sometimes heard that it is useful / important to do. No one seems to mention it in sharpening videos.
Rakers also known as depth gauges, drags, elevation, rakers, riders, risers, stops, depending on where you're from. What other names have you run across?
You are safer using a longer bar then a shorter bar. Due to the fact that there is a lot farther of a distance for the bar to get to you since the part of the bar (the nose of the bar) is farther away giving you more time to get the kickback under control. Which is the reason why top handle saws are more prone to injuring you. That's also why loggers that use long bars hardly ever get injured by kickback.
@@BryanClark-gk6iereread what I said. I never said that loggers use top handle saws. I said that they hardly ever get injured from kickback cause they use long bars.
Your comment at the end using the term “high energy kick back” was insightful for me. I’m not a professional user, but I spend hours and hours running saws living in Alaska. I consider myself “higher level” experience wise but I haven’t ever had my saw catch something at full rpm. I honestly hadn’t really considered that as I tend to run my saw fairly slow and controlled when bucking limbs and try to keep my bar clear whenever possible doing cross cuts.
That terminology did excellent to really grab my thoughts to consider what a high rpm kick back would feel like, especially when cutting trees close to a home where light arboreal work or “held high” limbing might seem like a good idea. Definitely gave me some more cues to think through running the saw. Thanks!
Your content is excellently presented and I appreciate the giant props! Cheers and Shalom!
Great video. Another thing to consider is how an operator positions their body in relationship to line of travel that a kickback will follow. I see a lot of people with their head aligned over the cut or lining their entire body up with the cut. A man I know took a kickback to his right calf as a result of this. 300 stitches. 2 days later,,,,,,,gangrene. Enough said. Think.
Learning a lot, you help me decide what chainsaw blade change to get. I appreciate your years of experience. Thank you very much be safe
Hi from the UK John, yet another great video, I like the detail you always go into, I have learned so much, watching your videos over the years, stay safe, and thank you Sir
Very concise explanation as always. I really appreciate your videos.
Great video John
Very useful info! Look forward to more!
I'd just like to add that even the low kick back chain with the big shark fins cuts just as fast as normal chain in wood that's smaller than 5-6 inches, in small stuff the chain doesnt get a chance to plug up with chips.
I run the reduced kickback chain on my top handle, it doesnt hold it back as I never cut large wood with it. It's by far my most dangerous saw, my normal fire wood saw is way easier to control.
Absolutely! The difference in cutting time on a six inch limb would literally be 1/10s of a second.
Kick back mostly occurs when something causes the chain velocity to slow. The best prevention is to keep the revs up and and keep small limbs away from the tip and watch for pinching the bar.
Awesome Video John…!
Great video. Is there a need to reshape the top of the depth gauge after it has been flattened a bit by filing so that there is once again a smooth curve leading up to its highest point/plane and not a quick transition from curved to flat? Sounds like a PITA but I've sometimes heard that it is useful / important to do. No one seems to mention it in sharpening videos.
Rakers also known as depth gauges, drags, elevation, rakers, riders, risers, stops, depending on where you're from. What other names have you run across?
You hit most of them. I tell people if they are filled too low- they become a death gauge.
Why so many different raker adjustment tools? Each raker should be adjusted for it's corresponding tooth.
You are safer using a longer bar then a shorter bar. Due to the fact that there is a lot farther of a distance for the bar to get to you since the part of the bar (the nose of the bar) is farther away giving you more time to get the kickback under control. Which is the reason why top handle saws are more prone to injuring you. That's also why loggers that use long bars hardly ever get injured by kickback.
@@BryanClark-gk6iereread what I said. I never said that loggers use top handle saws. I said that they hardly ever get injured from kickback cause they use long bars.