I appreciate the sub, thank you! Hopefully I explained it good enough. I’ll be getting the rear seal done this weekend or early next week, just been busy. Video shortly to follow
@@boosthuntergarage You're welcome. It was explained really well. I feel much better about doing it now. Where'd you get your kit? I only got the main seal (no secondary or nut).. Looking forward to the rear seal vid!
I used a long neck torx bit. Puts it at a lot straighter contact because the base of the socket doesnt get in the way. I also heated them up with a small propane torch.
Doing my pinion bearings now. What a pita. Thanks for the video. The nut on my trx was 31 mm or 1 3/16. Have fun finding one that fits in the yoke, I use 32 mm, my new kit came with that size. And what do you if you forgot to mark the drive shaft? It can only go 2 ways.
I probably wouldn’t worry too much about not marking it. If after putting it back together and driving it, there is a vibration you could just unbolt it and rotate it. But I doubt that will happen
I am about to tackle this today. Best video I have seen on this. Only thing I am unsure of is the seal on the opposite side. Yours sort of just fell out. HA!
The one seal should be on the yoke when you pull it but mine was just so worn that it stayed with the other seal when I pulled the yoke off. The seal that is on the diff side has a lip on it so just need to get under it with a flat blade screwdriver and pry it out. I hope that answers your question
You have wear on your gears and on older trucks I always tighten them to a 1/4 to 1/2 more when I tighten that nut back on and your lash will be fine and I use the old crush sleeve to get to where it was then go a little more to take up for wear an have been doing it that for 25 yrs with no problems.
Ha! I finally got around to doing this. I have an issue. I measured with a caliper and counted my turns backing the nut out. Guess what. no washer under the nut. So I am guessing I need to subtract the thickness of the washer off of my caliper measurement? But now how tight do I put the new nut on? Stuck!
Doing this right now to my 08 6.7…along with the rear main seal, and new oil pan…on the ground with no hoists…yeah I know…nightmare lol my bolts stripped too lol of course… but quick question for you about putting that new pinion seal and yoke back in. I’ve heard that you’re NOT supposed to do anything to that diff without re-crushing the sleeve….i however don’t agree with this because you’re not doing anything other than replacing a seal…but I keep hearing different opinions. What is your take on that? And did you have any issues with this pinion seal again since you did it?
I mean definitely the proper way would be to take it fully apart to do it but I haven’t had any issues with it since. Hasn’t started leaking again. I think as long as you put it back on the same depth it was, it shouldn’t matter about the crush sleeve. By all means I’m not a professional mechanic, I just learn as I go
I really appreciate this video! Everything was explained well and easy to follow. A problem I’m running into is when reinstalling the new flange/yoke with the included nut and washer it feels like I’m over tighten it. I installed it back to the original depth but the preload feels way too tight almost like there’s some kind of interference going on. I’m hoping it’s the two seals bottoming out on each other and not the crush sleeve being over crushed. Any ideas?
I appreciate the comment! I think as long as it’s all back together the same order and set to same depth it shouldn’t be crushing it. Could be the new seals dragging, depending on how worn out your old seals were.
@@boosthuntergarage thinking about it I think you’re right on the seals dragging. When I back the pinon nut off like 1/8 of a turn that “interference” feel stops and the preload drops to around 30in-lb. The current 9.25 under my Ram 2500 is bent so I’m rebuilding one from a truck that had flood damage. Inside of the diff is clean and water free but there was mud everywhere else. I believe the diff was rebuilt in 2019 cause there’s a date from 2/2019 written inside. Still throwing in all new seals to play it safe. Tomorrow morning I’ll buzz down that but back to the original depth and call it good. Thanks man!
I was wondering the same thing when I did mine but from what I figured if you are doing it this way you don’t need to put the crush washer in. If you were to fully take the diff apart and replace the bearing, that is when you would put the new crush washer in. I’m no expert tho
You have to remove the ring gear from the diff, pull the pinion. You should be replacing your bearings while you're at it, so pull the large bearing off the pinion, knock out the 2 bearing races from the diff, install new bearings. The crush washer goes on after you press the large bearing onto the pinion, before you reinsert the pinion into the diff. Install pinion in the diff, put small bearing into the race at front of diff, install seal, install yoke, torque the nut enough to crush the crush washer to get the correct rotating torque (5 in/lbs) needed to maintain motion spinning the yoke. The pinion nut must be at least 210ft/lbs. You may get lucky and get back into specs when you reinstall the new pinion nut of at least 210ft/lbs while maintaining 5 in/lbs of rotating torque. Generally if I'm replacing the seal, I'm replacing the bad pinion bearings that caused the seal to fail. Replacing both pinion bearings, both differential side bearings, and both axle bearings. Then checking backlash after crushing a new crush washer, then checking contact pattern between pinion and ring gears. This method shown may work, if able to get the aforementioned torque measurements, as well as good backlash and contact pattern (not performed here). Or it may not work, and eventually your pinion bearings will fail.... I'd rather let the diff leak and keep putting oil in it than replace seal without replacing bearings. since this is a front diff not a rear diff, and the fact that 4WD mode is rarely used, this fix may last a long time.
@@thebluelunarmonkey I like your idea of replacing bearings and seals. What your recommending would entail removing front hub unit bearings and axels. Is this correct. So it's a good idea to change out axel seals as well?
@@aaronwilcox6417 yes since seals are cheap. use a scotch brite pad to rub off any surface rust where the outer axle seal touches the axle. Make sure you have enough room on each side to pull the axle out without hitting a wall. By itself, replacing axle seals and axle bearings does not require any adjustment so any competent DIYer can do it. I was taught to do bearing change + new ratio ring/pinion in a rear end over 30 years ago by a shop mechanic friend - I still needed help even though I had done an engine rebuild before. For a front differential when you rarely use 4x4 mode, I'd hesitate to recommend you do pinion bearings, differential bearings, and the crush sleeve without any experienced person guiding you - of course today we have youtube. You might get lucky just like Boost did by just replacing pinion nut and seal. The problem with Booster's fix is you can't check the pinion preload with the carrier and ring gear in place, so you don't know if you've overtightened the pinion nut - If you've crushed the crush sleeve further, then your pinion bearings are going to be too close to each other and your bearings will bind and fail, regardless if you never use 4x4 mode.
by chance any one know if power wagon axles are any different? I know they have locking diffs over a regular 2500 but not sure what the specs of the axles are, btw its an 06
Super clear instructions!
I've got an 07.5 6.7L 3500 and both my pinion seals are thrashed.. I have new seals, so I'm hear learning what I need to do. Subbed. Thanks.
I appreciate the sub, thank you! Hopefully I explained it good enough. I’ll be getting the rear seal done this weekend or early next week, just been busy. Video shortly to follow
@@boosthuntergarage You're welcome. It was explained really well. I feel much better about doing it now. Where'd you get your kit? I only got the main seal (no secondary or nut).. Looking forward to the rear seal vid!
I got the kit off drivetrainamerica.com
@@boosthuntergarage Did you ever get around to the rear pinion seal?
@@geriatricginger Hey sorry I got busy and it was put on the back burner but I’m actually gunna get it done the end of this week/weekend
I used a long neck torx bit. Puts it at a lot straighter contact because the base of the socket doesnt get in the way. I also heated them up with a small propane torch.
2 yrs on, thx for the vid
Great video. Hopefully this helps with a job I have tomorrow. Thanks and cheers to a Canadian brother
Thank you, hope this helped and your job goes smooth
Nice job, thanks for the info
Doing my pinion bearings now. What a pita. Thanks for the video. The nut on my trx was 31 mm or 1 3/16. Have fun finding one that fits in the yoke, I use 32 mm, my new kit came with that size. And what do you if you forgot to mark the drive shaft? It can only go 2 ways.
I probably wouldn’t worry too much about not marking it. If after putting it back together and driving it, there is a vibration you could just unbolt it and rotate it. But I doubt that will happen
@boosthuntergarage That's what I figured. After cleaning everything all the marking are gone anyway unless punched. Thanks for the reply.
I am about to tackle this today. Best video I have seen on this. Only thing I am unsure of is the seal on the opposite side. Yours sort of just fell out. HA!
The one seal should be on the yoke when you pull it but mine was just so worn that it stayed with the other seal when I pulled the yoke off. The seal that is on the diff side has a lip on it so just need to get under it with a flat blade screwdriver and pry it out. I hope that answers your question
Great info! Thank you!
You have wear on your gears and on older trucks I always tighten them to a 1/4 to 1/2 more when I tighten that nut back on and your lash will be fine and I use the old crush sleeve to get to where it was then go a little more to take up for wear an have been doing it that for 25 yrs with no problems.
Good to know, this was first time doing this. I plan on eventually doing a full axle rebuild and upgrading the gears
Ha! I finally got around to doing this. I have an issue. I measured with a caliper and counted my turns backing the nut out. Guess what. no washer under the nut. So I am guessing I need to subtract the thickness of the washer off of my caliper measurement? But now how tight do I put the new nut on? Stuck!
Yeah I would just subtract the the thickness of the washer off your measurement and just go with that
@@boosthuntergarage Thanks for the quick help and video.
Doing this right now to my 08 6.7…along with the rear main seal, and new oil pan…on the ground with no hoists…yeah I know…nightmare lol my bolts stripped too lol of course… but quick question for you about putting that new pinion seal and yoke back in. I’ve heard that you’re NOT supposed to do anything to that diff without re-crushing the sleeve….i however don’t agree with this because you’re not doing anything other than replacing a seal…but I keep hearing different opinions. What is your take on that? And did you have any issues with this pinion seal again since you did it?
I mean definitely the proper way would be to take it fully apart to do it but I haven’t had any issues with it since. Hasn’t started leaking again. I think as long as you put it back on the same depth it was, it shouldn’t matter about the crush sleeve. By all means I’m not a professional mechanic, I just learn as I go
I really appreciate this video! Everything was explained well and easy to follow. A problem I’m running into is when reinstalling the new flange/yoke with the included nut and washer it feels like I’m over tighten it. I installed it back to the original depth but the preload feels way too tight almost like there’s some kind of interference going on. I’m hoping it’s the two seals bottoming out on each other and not the crush sleeve being over crushed. Any ideas?
I appreciate the comment! I think as long as it’s all back together the same order and set to same depth it shouldn’t be crushing it. Could be the new seals dragging, depending on how worn out your old seals were.
@@boosthuntergarage thinking about it I think you’re right on the seals dragging. When I back the pinon nut off like 1/8 of a turn that “interference” feel stops and the preload drops to around 30in-lb. The current 9.25 under my Ram 2500 is bent so I’m rebuilding one from a truck that had flood damage. Inside of the diff is clean and water free but there was mud everywhere else. I believe the diff was rebuilt in 2019 cause there’s a date from 2/2019 written inside. Still throwing in all new seals to play it safe. Tomorrow morning I’ll buzz down that but back to the original depth and call it good. Thanks man!
Good video thank you.
I’ve watched 5 videos and no one says where to put that crush washer. Can you please tell me where it goes?
I was wondering the same thing when I did mine but from what I figured if you are doing it this way you don’t need to put the crush washer in. If you were to fully take the diff apart and replace the bearing, that is when you would put the new crush washer in. I’m no expert tho
You have to remove the ring gear from the diff, pull the pinion. You should be replacing your bearings while you're at it, so pull the large bearing off the pinion, knock out the 2 bearing races from the diff, install new bearings. The crush washer goes on after you press the large bearing onto the pinion, before you reinsert the pinion into the diff. Install pinion in the diff, put small bearing into the race at front of diff, install seal, install yoke, torque the nut enough to crush the crush washer to get the correct rotating torque (5 in/lbs) needed to maintain motion spinning the yoke. The pinion nut must be at least 210ft/lbs.
You may get lucky and get back into specs when you reinstall the new pinion nut of at least 210ft/lbs while maintaining 5 in/lbs of rotating torque.
Generally if I'm replacing the seal, I'm replacing the bad pinion bearings that caused the seal to fail. Replacing both pinion bearings, both differential side bearings, and both axle bearings. Then checking backlash after crushing a new crush washer, then checking contact pattern between pinion and ring gears.
This method shown may work, if able to get the aforementioned torque measurements, as well as good backlash and contact pattern (not performed here). Or it may not work, and eventually your pinion bearings will fail.... I'd rather let the diff leak and keep putting oil in it than replace seal without replacing bearings.
since this is a front diff not a rear diff, and the fact that 4WD mode is rarely used, this fix may last a long time.
@@thebluelunarmonkey I like your idea of replacing bearings and seals. What your recommending would entail removing front hub unit bearings and axels. Is this correct. So it's a good idea to change out axel seals as well?
@@aaronwilcox6417 yes since seals are cheap. use a scotch brite pad to rub off any surface rust where the outer axle seal touches the axle. Make sure you have enough room on each side to pull the axle out without hitting a wall. By itself, replacing axle seals and axle bearings does not require any adjustment so any competent DIYer can do it.
I was taught to do bearing change + new ratio ring/pinion in a rear end over 30 years ago by a shop mechanic friend - I still needed help even though I had done an engine rebuild before. For a front differential when you rarely use 4x4 mode, I'd hesitate to recommend you do pinion bearings, differential bearings, and the crush sleeve without any experienced person guiding you - of course today we have youtube. You might get lucky just like Boost did by just replacing pinion nut and seal.
The problem with Booster's fix is you can't check the pinion preload with the carrier and ring gear in place, so you don't know if you've overtightened the pinion nut - If you've crushed the crush sleeve further, then your pinion bearings are going to be too close to each other and your bearings will bind and fail, regardless if you never use 4x4 mode.
What did you use to hold the flange to unscrew the nut?
I left the tires on the ground and put the park brake on and just let the weight of the truck hold it
No crush sleeve ?
Left the original crush sleeve in
What was the bolt threads and length?
They are a m8 x 1.25 x 35. So about 1 3/8” or 1 1/2” long
@@boosthuntergarage Thank you sir. I’m about to do my 13 2500 also.
Thanks again for the info
@@shaneb3593 Your welcome, glad I could help!
Where did you buy the kit from?
I bought the kit off of drivetrainamerica.com
by chance any one know if power wagon axles are any different? I know they have locking diffs over a regular 2500 but not sure what the specs of the axles are, btw its an 06
I believe they are still an aam 9.25, so they should be the same in this aspect but I’m not 100% sure
torgue bolts,,what a joke