Hi I have buy me a Suzuki tu 125 xt. Is it the same engine and is it the same way to change the oil? Greetings from Germany and excuse me for my bad English
Hi! All the bolts on any motorcycle needs to be tightened to a specific torque according to the workshop manual. But I only care about that for engine moving parts, or even brakes or suspension bolts. The bolts on this oil change doesn't require much tightening, in fact too much would strip the engine case. Just tighten lightly with small spanners, and whithout going crazy. If it's important for you, please consider buying a good workshop manual. That would be your best tool, and the torques are specified for each bolt. Cheers.
Hi, sorry for the delay. It's to avoid having the engine running whithout oil flowing for a couple of seconds. But not really important. If you havn't filled the filter, start the engine for a few seconds, stop it and after a minute or two start it again. By then the filter should be filled with oil.
@@coastrider8881 It is just my personal experience. When I wrote that comment I had just watched a TH-cam video explaining why not to use synthetic oil. Something to do with the size of the molecules bypassing gaskets. I have since watched other videos that try to debunk all that stuff. So my philosophy now is, if it works for you, do it. That comment was too flipant, sorry. But I now use mineral oil. The synthetic oil was turning into thin air. Getting past the piston rings that are perhaps on the limit after 55,000 kilometers? Not sure. No smoke on startup or when riding, nothing I have changed from 10w-40 to 15w-40 too. The problem is gone.
Thank you for sharing your point of view. My experience is synthetic in old design engines is more prone to go through gaskets and pistons rings in very or badly used engines, but also reduce the friction and heat. I also use 15w40 or even 20w50 in very warm areas. The VanVan user manual says nothing about mineral or synthetic so it's up to the user. I'd use synthetic in low mileage or very well cared engines, and semi or full mineral in very used engines. These engines are old design and not very powerful nor with high RPM use, so a mineral oil is definitely not going to hurt them. Cheers.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm curious, do you do yourself the maintenance on your own bike?
Thank you very much! Instructive and complete video step by step and also thanks for all the usefull tips!
Thank you, i'm just about to do a oil change on my Van Van and your video has shown me everything i need to know, i'm feeling far more confident now.
Me: Cant be hard.
Also me: *sees 2 bolts and is confused*
Thanks alot.
Cheers.
Thanks for such a clear video.
this music is like something you'd hear in a RPG where you can't figure out how to get to the next level for like 10 hours
No commentary my favorite already. :D
Very chill music in this vid
I have a DR125. The same engine and the same steps for oil change.
Thanks for info.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for much needed video👍👍👍
if you change the oil filter to GN125, use hf 131. hf 132 filter is not suitable
Hi I have buy me a Suzuki tu 125 xt. Is it the same engine and is it the same way to change the oil? Greetings from Germany and excuse me for my bad English
yes, it is exactly the same engine, and you must do the same process. greetings from Chile!
When do you do the oil strainer ?
Do any of the bolts need to be tightened to a specific torque ?
Hi! All the bolts on any motorcycle needs to be tightened to a specific torque according to the workshop manual. But I only care about that for engine moving parts, or even brakes or suspension bolts. The bolts on this oil change doesn't require much tightening, in fact too much would strip the engine case. Just tighten lightly with small spanners, and whithout going crazy. If it's important for you, please consider buying a good workshop manual. That would be your best tool, and the torques are specified for each bolt. Cheers.
How many quarts of oil does it take ?
Grazie per il video molto bello
danke Dir Coast Rider
Joachim
Thanks for watching!
All models have the same engine???
Yes, with some minor differences
Why put oil in the filter? Just asking because I just changed the oil an put filter in. But didn't put oil in filter. Is it necessary?
Hi, sorry for the delay. It's to avoid having the engine running whithout oil flowing for a couple of seconds. But not really important. If you havn't filled the filter, start the engine for a few seconds, stop it and after a minute or two start it again. By then the filter should be filled with oil.
@@coastrider8881 thank you. Greatly appreciated.
Perfect👌 thankyou 🙏
Bonsoir magnifique votre video
Merci beaucoups!
Thank you
I've filled the oil slightly above the max line, will this be okay?
If it's very slightly it's not a big deal. Otherwise empty a little bit of oil. Cheers!
Thanks ! 👍
Thanks for watching!
Thanks
You're welcome!
Can I put wd-30
Yes... but your bike will burn
Yes but I’d you did your bike will burn into ash so I recommend not doing that
Merci beaucoup
Thanks for watching!
Hm is smoke from the exhaust after an oil change normal 😐
No
Não entendo Inglês, mas o vídeo foi Ótimo👍
Obrigado!
This music is so damn good
Nice 👌
Combien de litre d’huile pour le remplissage
Salut, c'est marqué sur le couvercle, a côté du bouchon de remplissage.
Is it okay to use 20 W 40?
It depends on your area climate, but shouldn't be a problem. This is a old style engine, it probably works fine with cooking oil hahaha (just joking)
Just found this for you, a 20w50 would probably be better: www.manualslib.com/manual/1598504/Suzuki-Rv125.html?page=9#manual
Music was good.
Thank you!
... you should mention first buying a new gasket before draining the oil ...
He used synthetic oil. Not to be recomended.
Hi Bertold, thanks for watching the video. Could you explain why is not recomended? it could be useful for the viewers.
@@coastrider8881 It is just my personal experience. When I wrote that comment I had just watched a TH-cam video explaining why not to use synthetic oil. Something to do with the size of the molecules bypassing gaskets. I have since watched other videos that try to debunk all that stuff. So my philosophy now is, if it works for you, do it. That comment was too flipant, sorry. But I now use mineral oil. The synthetic oil was turning into thin air. Getting past the piston rings that are perhaps on the limit after 55,000 kilometers? Not sure. No smoke on startup or when riding, nothing I have changed from 10w-40 to 15w-40 too. The problem is gone.
Thank you for sharing your point of view. My experience is synthetic in old design engines is more prone to go through gaskets and pistons rings in very or badly used engines, but also reduce the friction and heat. I also use 15w40 or even 20w50 in very warm areas. The VanVan user manual says nothing about mineral or synthetic so it's up to the user. I'd use synthetic in low mileage or very well cared engines, and semi or full mineral in very used engines. These engines are old design and not very powerful nor with high RPM use, so a mineral oil is definitely not going to hurt them. Cheers.
Thank you
Thank you