BMX U brakes hardly work at all. It’s no wonder that lots of riders just take them off their bikes. Do this mod to give yourself tons more braking power!
I can't believe this exists. Been grappling with this idea and looking for a solution for years, now I just feel stupid.🤣 Thanks bro, will share far and wide!
Always had the v brake noodle idea but never picked one out to try. Now I'm wondering if a front 990 would work better since they are destined) designed like that already.
I just bought my first BMX yesterday, and the brakes are the first thing I noticed I was going to have to find a better way to get more power from them. Can we get a "how to" video of the process? I know its simple, but I always enjoy watching someones process before an attempt of my own. Great video and just what I was looking for!
Finally got this done. Took me well over an hour, first time I've ever ran a new cable and messed with brakes. Took quite a bit of adjustment, had to cut the cable and housing a couple of times too. Nearly destroyed the new cable😅but now it's done it's amazing, she clamps like a vice! No more fussy straddle gubbins, looks much nicer with the noodle. Highly recommend OP's Ubrake transformation. Feels like a brake that working much more efficiently
Thank you. What a transformation. My no name brakes went from barely slowing me down to providing more power than I can use. I ended routing the cable along the downtube and using a 90 degree noodle. I also drilled a hole in the brake arm to provide a solid seat for the noodle.
I've just done this mod on my WTP Audio 22, works great. I found that looping the cable around the seat tube made the v brake noodle rub against the tyre so routed it straight to the brake. Could be I need to take up the slack a bit more to make it work around the seat tube, I'll try it out and see if it works. Thanks again 😀
Just bought my son a Collective C1. The brake sucks. I was looking at it and saw the geometry is all wrong. I was wondering if doing away with the straddle would work, now I see it does, I'm doing the same.
I moved a few months ago and I can't find my straddle cable part that secures it to my cable. I'm stoked I found your video after searching for videos on Odyssey's new Springfield U break kit. This will solve several issues, if it works.
This didn't work. Too much cable is left after installation. It is right in the path of your leg and it simply will not work without a few additions. One being a 90°, metal cable housing sleeve from some mtb.
He used a flexible one. I like the adjustment on the underside of my top tube and wit tsis it would be gone. Also u brakes have longer arm to compensate diferent directon so im not sure
@@roadrash9024 it’s called a brake noodle. They will sell you one at the bike shop for a buck or two. Seriously, that’s the key to this. Just ramming extra cable won’t work... get the noodle. In the video it’s the little black ( shaped piece of ‘housing looking stuff.’ Peace
I don't have a 1988 trek huffster... We use 990s haha. Jokes aside, you seem to have left a giant, completely loose, section of cable coming into the brakes. Thats incredibly dangerous for any of us that use the bikes as intended. All you've done is run the brakes like the front brakes, which indeed, can help with arm flex. But if it was the solution, we would already be doing it en mass. Thanks for the video tho!
Get an Odyssey gyro and a London Mod so you have twin cables. Replace standard rolled metal springs with CNC squared ones cut from a solid block. And maybe upgrade the brake pads (with a diacompe fiesta kit if your'e running AD996 Hombres) and throw some titanium bolts in there too. But deffo go for a twin-pull system rather than a single pull one as featured here. Plus gyros are just better than having some hipster crap. Peace
Landon if you see this where can i get that long wire you used with the thing at the end that allows it to sit in the brakes and what brand brakes are those.
The noodle is securing the brake to the first arm. How do you secure the cable to the second arm? Also, my frame does not have any cable guides. Are cable guides necessary? Do certain 990 models work better than others?
My U brake has a claw on one arm and a nut anchor on the other arm. If you’re style brake has a claw on both arms you would need a narp to secure the brake cable. If your frame doesn’t have cable guides you’ll have to use zip ties.
This is basically the same way that the front U brake is installed, the difference being that there’s no need for a flexible V brake noodle on the front.
what brake system are you using. I am rebuilding an old BMX bike for the grandson and this is what I'm looking to do. Do not like the original system to complicated.
Yes, but you’d need to buy a new lower gyro cable because it needs to be longer than the standard setup. Any new lower cable will be long enough for you to cut to size.
Done! Ordered the new Gyro cable and a flex noodle. All fitted. Finding the outer flexs a little which make the initial brake bite a little soft. Is there a way to improve thus? Needs more support I think. But overall works better than stock and looks a lot cleaner.
Seems like it would be easier to just set your brakes up correctly. Also try filling a bit of the breaking surface off of new pads before installing them.
My god, I can't believe modern BMXs have this shite setup. Back in the 80's side pulls were brilliant. Even V brakes are better than this antiquated cantilever crap. FFS.
I can't believe this exists. Been grappling with this idea and looking for a solution for years, now I just feel stupid.🤣 Thanks bro, will share far and wide!
Always had the v brake noodle idea but never picked one out to try. Now I'm wondering if a front 990 would work better since they are destined) designed like that already.
I just bought my first BMX yesterday, and the brakes are the first thing I noticed I was going to have to find a better way to get more power from them. Can we get a "how to" video of the process? I know its simple, but I always enjoy watching someones process before an attempt of my own. Great video and just what I was looking for!
Finally got this done. Took me well over an hour, first time I've ever ran a new cable and messed with brakes. Took quite a bit of adjustment, had to cut the cable and housing a couple of times too. Nearly destroyed the new cable😅but now it's done it's amazing, she clamps like a vice!
No more fussy straddle gubbins, looks much nicer with the noodle. Highly recommend OP's Ubrake transformation. Feels like a brake that working much more efficiently
Thank you. What a transformation. My no name brakes went from barely slowing me down to providing more power than I can use. I ended routing the cable along the downtube and using a 90 degree noodle. I also drilled a hole in the brake arm to provide a solid seat for the noodle.
This is awesome. I love when people take a good idea and make them better. True engineering! 👍😎👍
I just made it!!! And now i have a powerfull brake!! AWESOME!! Thanks pal! Work flawlessly! Simply and softer! Unvelievable!
What brakes are you running
@@navorgonzalez2744 U-brake. It was too stiff and weak, and now its awesome.
I've just done this mod on my WTP Audio 22, works great. I found that looping the cable around the seat tube made the v brake noodle rub against the tyre so routed it straight to the brake. Could be I need to take up the slack a bit more to make it work around the seat tube, I'll try it out and see if it works. Thanks again 😀
Please add video, with process how you done and what parts need to buy. Thanks if you do it
This makes perfect sence and I’m doing this tonight ! As a bigger guy I need all the brake I can get
I ended up replacing the brake system with odyessy evo 2.5 and it works way better
@@TheStitch1975 hey man how are those brakes holding up?
@@TheStitch1975 how is the odyssey brake holding up??
Ever tried the bent spoke replacement of the straddle cable? Works pretty sweet.
Just bought my son a Collective C1. The brake sucks. I was looking at it and saw the geometry is all wrong. I was wondering if doing away with the straddle would work, now I see it does, I'm doing the same.
I did it my self and can confirm, that it works!
I moved a few months ago and I can't find my straddle cable part that secures it to my cable. I'm stoked I found your video after searching for videos on Odyssey's new Springfield U break kit. This will solve several issues, if it works.
This didn't work. Too much cable is left after installation. It is right in the path of your leg and it simply will not work without a few additions. One being a 90°, metal cable housing sleeve from some mtb.
He used a flexible one. I like the adjustment on the underside of my top tube and wit tsis it would be gone.
Also u brakes have longer arm to compensate diferent directon so im not sure
@@roadrash9024 it’s called a brake noodle. They will sell you one at the bike shop for a buck or two. Seriously, that’s the key to this. Just ramming extra cable won’t work... get the noodle. In the video it’s the little black ( shaped piece of ‘housing looking stuff.’ Peace
Love that I found this video. Very informative and I'm excited to try it out.
I’m late to the party but this basically turns rear u brakes into front u brakes I might give it a go
This guy gets a sub for that let’s get him 100
CrIss crossing a stradle cable around the seatpost works pretty good to
@brantmoore what do you think of this theory ?
Good shit my brakes work so good now
So does the noodle just drop into the anchor point for the straddle cable
Will this idea work using a Gyro ?
I don't have a 1988 trek huffster... We use 990s haha. Jokes aside, you seem to have left a giant, completely loose, section of cable coming into the brakes. Thats incredibly dangerous for any of us that use the bikes as intended. All you've done is run the brakes like the front brakes, which indeed, can help with arm flex. But if it was the solution, we would already be doing it en mass. Thanks for the video tho!
Get an Odyssey gyro and a London Mod so you have twin cables. Replace standard rolled metal springs with CNC squared ones cut from a solid block. And maybe upgrade the brake pads (with a diacompe fiesta kit if your'e running AD996 Hombres) and throw some titanium bolts in there too. But deffo go for a twin-pull system rather than a single pull one as featured here. Plus gyros are just better than having some hipster crap.
Peace
i tried it but it doesnt work for some reason i dont know why can you do a tutorial?
I'll try this with my eclat unit brakes.
Going to try this on a old school mountain bike
Great job man!
I want to do it for my grandson’s bike. Is there any additional parts needed?
Cna i have the link when you bough those brakes
Landon if you see this where can i get that long wire you used with the thing at the end that allows it to sit in the brakes and what brand brakes are those.
but why they don' do it stock like this....don't get it. Gonna try this for sure.
I don’t get it either 🤷♂️
It's so you have to spend money getting it looked at by them
Did you buy correct lever, v-brake lever has twice as much cable pull?
The noodle is securing the brake to the first arm. How do you secure the cable to the second arm? Also, my frame does not have any cable guides. Are cable guides necessary? Do certain 990 models work better than others?
My U brake has a claw on one arm and a nut anchor on the other arm. If you’re style brake has a claw on both arms you would need a narp to secure the brake cable. If your frame doesn’t have cable guides you’ll have to use zip ties.
I am definitely trying this.
best tip ever!@ thx!@
How was it done ?
It's very interesting for sure. I might try it out. Did you use a V brake level?
Will this work just as good for a front brake for when the cable wraps around the fork to the brakes
This is basically the same way that the front U brake is installed, the difference being that there’s no need for a flexible V brake noodle on the front.
@@LandonArkens I just thought I might loosen up some friction due to a tight bent on the housing... just a thought
You measured the second leverage angle backwards.
I just tried this but I can't get them to bite like yours.
Also what brake are you running
What brake lever are you using?
I just did my straddle delete. Much more stopping power I see
Could you please list the parts needed for the u-brake end of the cable?
I just used a flexible v brake noodle like this one.
www.ebay.com/itm/362753140545
Or use the extra front brake parts that come with aftermarket brakes like odyssey EVO 2s. Essentially running the rear brake just like a front brake.
Looks like your using an older style shimano lx lever ? Very nice.
@@LandonArkens Hi Landon, that link is not working. How long was that noodle please?
i'm doing odyssey springfield ubrakes face out
what brake system are you using. I am rebuilding an old BMX bike for the grandson and this is what I'm looking to do. Do not like the original system to complicated.
I did this to the u brake that came stock on my bike.
Can you do this with a gyro?
Yes, but you’d need to buy a new lower gyro cable because it needs to be longer than the standard setup. Any new lower cable will be long enough for you to cut to size.
@@LandonArkens Ok thanks. I was trying figure out it there is a way to extended the existing lower cable set without but looking sh1t 😂
Done! Ordered the new Gyro cable and a flex noodle. All fitted. Finding the outer flexs a little which make the initial brake bite a little soft. Is there a way to improve thus? Needs more support I think. But overall works better than stock and looks a lot cleaner.
Not sure. Let me know if you come up with something!
Roller Cam brakes are the real answer ;)
😆
Well, sheeit. Imma try this.
Seems like it would be easier to just set your brakes up correctly. Also try filling a bit of the breaking surface off of new pads before installing them.
Just get clear pads, that front brake setup is jank.
So you replaced the lever with a v brake lever and reduced your cable pull .You essentially fucked the whole thing up .
NO!
My god, I can't believe modern BMXs have this shite setup. Back in the 80's side pulls were brilliant. Even V brakes are better than this antiquated cantilever crap. FFS.