Just got a Promaster and didn't know where to start. Your videos have helped me so much, especially the framing and paneling ones! Also appreciate your level of detail and doing it right with the nuts (instead of self tapping screws) as well as anti mold paint on the plywood.
@@sheri4673 self tapping screws are prone to coming loose over time with the vibration of a vehicle, so if you can use rivnuts or crossnuts/plusnuts (they go by both) and bolt your furring strips to the wall, you're better off. Crossnuts/plusnuts are a little better than rivnuts but more expensive for the tools and materials, so if you're on a budget then go for rivnuts and they work just fine.
I thought so too, and then it turns out I couldn't use them like that so I had to take the hinge/lid off. The boxes are still nice to have because they serve a few purposes; support for my benches, additional storage space, and a spot to mount electrical/plumbing components.
@@JasonKlunk - Thanks for that reply. I was quite conflicted about building the wheel well boxes, but after hearing your reasoning, I'm definitely going to build them as well. Any recommendations for the type of plywood that should be or perhaps that doesn't matter?
Must really help to have a square wall for all the carpentry, good job on framing it out with those strips. I've been trying to figure out how to build the walls in my Promaster, but not really a fan of losing those few inches just for a straight wall. Quite tempted to just slap up the plywood right onto the cargo frame.
IMO, if you just put up 1/4" onto the frame you don't have much support for the rest of your build, everything goes into the 1/4" and that is not strong enough. 1/2" wont bend to the curve of the wall.
In case anyone is doing a similar build.. I ended up removing the tops of my wheel well boxes so I could use it for support for my benches but still have a little bit of access/storage. It worked out really nice.
Is your van 118" or 136"? Ours is 136 and we are going to try start the build-out tomorrow if the rain holds off. Its good to know that over the wheel wells that each side mirrors the other, unlike a Transit or Sprinter.
Hi Jason, Thanks for sharing your process, I’m converting a 2014 Ram Promaster right now, curious how you like the slider window on the driver side backside...I’m about to order one and wondered if you could share the size of window you chose and a trustworthy company to order from...🙏thanks for any help👌☀️ 🌈
What is your plan for covering the central metal ribs on each side of the van? I like how you are maximizing space by not having your furring strips be flush with them but I am curious on how you are going to deal with the metal ribs
Thanks. Both sides will mostly be covered by upper/lower cabinets. I'm going to build a beam over the remaining piece on each side that will hold some switches/outlets.
Been following a lot of your processes. Thanks! Did you fill that large support beam in front of the wheel well with insulation? I know you aren’t supposed to fill the lower trough as water can run down there. Also, did you put up all of your framing strips with rivnuts?
It appears you did some sort of 2X4 wood framing to hang you walls on? What did you use to screw the frame into the van? Did these go into the wall of the van or only on the ribs?. Sort of afraid to screw things into the van wall in fear of going through.Thank you so much for the great videos. They are very helpful.
Are you using 1/2" baltic birch for all of you wall panels or are you looking doing something a bit lighter on the other parts of the van? I am trying to figure out what I want to do but want to be weight conscious.
Jason Klunk Jason Klunk thanks for all your inspiration and guidance with your videos! What was your main deciding factors to use plywood for your walls as opposed to tongue and groove for the walls as most do? I would like to get your insight. Thank you!
Thanks. Most of my walls will be covered so there was no point to doing anything like T&G. The front area will be covered by upper/lower cabinets and a backsplash. The back area will be covered by the bench seats and upper cabinets. I will be doing shiplap in the two small spots that are going to be visible.
Hey, I used construction screws like this: www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-6-x-3-4-in-Philips-Square-Drive-Flat-Head-Full-Thread-Zinc-Coated-Multi-Material-Screw-45-per-Box-4101010350201/202040986 I used different sizes in different places, it just depends on what you have for furring strips.
Hi! First, thank you for all of your videos. I watched them repeatedly over the last few months and, now that I finally have my own Promaster, will refer to them even more....I'm a little confused, though...At the end of the video prior to this one (Episode 9), there are furring strips around the wheel well. At the beginning of this video, they aren't there any longer. Did you remove them and attach the plywood panel wall directly to the van metal or did you temporarily remove the furring strips?
@@JasonKlunk Right, a complex subject for sure, but you did foil tape the foil-faced polyiso for continuous membrane. Just pondering why you didn't perfect the rest of the envelope. BTW, excellent video production and content, thx.
Just got a Promaster and didn't know where to start. Your videos have helped me so much, especially the framing and paneling ones! Also appreciate your level of detail and doing it right with the nuts (instead of self tapping screws) as well as anti mold paint on the plywood.
Nice, good luck!
@@sheri4673 self tapping screws are prone to coming loose over time with the vibration of a vehicle, so if you can use rivnuts or crossnuts/plusnuts (they go by both) and bolt your furring strips to the wall, you're better off. Crossnuts/plusnuts are a little better than rivnuts but more expensive for the tools and materials, so if you're on a budget then go for rivnuts and they work just fine.
Can’t thank you enough for taking the time to document your build! It’s helped me so much!
Glad it helped!
Great Tutorial Videos Brother !! Waiting on wife to give me the green lite on purchasing a Promaster .
Have fun!
Smart to hinge the wheel well boxes. There's some good storage there.
I thought so too, and then it turns out I couldn't use them like that so I had to take the hinge/lid off. The boxes are still nice to have because they serve a few purposes; support for my benches, additional storage space, and a spot to mount electrical/plumbing components.
@@JasonKlunk - Thanks for that reply. I was quite conflicted about building the wheel well boxes, but after hearing your reasoning, I'm definitely going to build them as well.
Any recommendations for the type of plywood that should be or perhaps that doesn't matter?
1/2" is totally fine IMO, 3/4" is probably overkill. I used birch for everything (baltic birch for all my cabinets)
Must really help to have a square wall for all the carpentry, good job on framing it out with those strips.
I've been trying to figure out how to build the walls in my Promaster, but not really a fan of losing those few inches just for a straight wall. Quite tempted to just slap up the plywood right onto the cargo frame.
IMO, if you just put up 1/4" onto the frame you don't have much support for the rest of your build, everything goes into the 1/4" and that is not strong enough. 1/2" wont bend to the curve of the wall.
@@JasonKlunk good to know bro! Guess I'll have to be framing it, definitely 1/2" minimum to build off of some ply. Thanks for the tip!
Love everything about it
thanks so much!
Learned so much from you brother. Thank you very much.
Glad to help!
Hello! I was wondering how you will be covering the seam. You mentioned it was nice and flush but it won't be seen. Thanks!
Check out the later videos to see how it’s all finished 👍
clean work. Nice
Appreciate it
How did you make your templates for around the fender well and up against the highly irregular verticle beam at about the center of the cargo area?
cardboard and lots of tape
In case anyone is doing a similar build.. I ended up removing the tops of my wheel well boxes so I could use it for support for my benches but still have a little bit of access/storage. It worked out really nice.
Is your van 118" or 136"? Ours is 136 and we are going to try start the build-out tomorrow if the rain holds off. Its good to know that over the wheel wells that each side mirrors the other, unlike a Transit or Sprinter.
@@yourpcmd Mine is a 136" WB
@@JasonKlunk sweet.... thanks!
Hi Jason,
Thanks for sharing your process, I’m converting a 2014 Ram Promaster right now, curious how you like the slider window on the driver side backside...I’m about to order one and wondered if you could share the size of window you chose and a trustworthy company to order from...🙏thanks for any help👌☀️ 🌈
How thick is the framing behind the walls? I tried watching your framing video but you never actually showed where you installed the strips. Thanks.
Every spot is a bit different in the van, anywhere from 1/2" to 2"
What is your plan for covering the central metal ribs on each side of the van? I like how you are maximizing space by not having your furring strips be flush with them but I am curious on how you are going to deal with the metal ribs
Thanks. Both sides will mostly be covered by upper/lower cabinets. I'm going to build a beam over the remaining piece on each side that will hold some switches/outlets.
Curious, when you were wiring, how did you get all of it put into the wiring area after building your walls?
Through the ceiling - dropped down. I also ran some underneath my platform between my bench seats.
What is the thickness and material you used for the wall panels? Looks great!!!
I used 1/4" birch ply for the panels
Been following a lot of your processes. Thanks! Did you fill that large support beam in front of the wheel well with insulation? I know you aren’t supposed to fill the lower trough as water can run down there.
Also, did you put up all of your framing strips with rivnuts?
Yeah, I tried to fill all of the voids except for the bottom area. I used plus nuts to hang all of my furring strips.
@@JasonKlunk, what size were your framing strips?
Curious if you had to do the furring strips before putting the panels over? Can you skip this step and just attach panels to the van??
In theory yes, you could attach walls directly to the van metal, but you'll end up with a ton of holes in the metal. It's not idea to do this IMO.
Why don’t you show, how you finished off the raised areas in your wall paneling, how you covered those up?
It’s just a box that conforms with the curves in the wall, nothing special. You can see them in my tour video.
Hi Jason! Just got a Ram Promaster and am curious about what you did about the rocker panels? If you insulated/sealed the rocker panels?
how much was the plywood in total? If u don't mind me asking. 'Im trying to decide if I'm going to go to HDepot or Lowes or order fitted kit online.
Went to do this to my 2019 but stopped since 1/2 plywood is $97 a sheet (6-16-21)
brutal
It appears you did some sort of 2X4 wood framing to hang you walls on? What did you use to screw the frame into the van? Did these go into the wall of the van or only on the ribs?. Sort of afraid to screw things into the van wall in fear of going through.Thank you so much for the great videos. They are very helpful.
Check out the previous episode, I screwed the panels into my furring strips.
Are you using 1/2" baltic birch for all of you wall panels or are you looking doing something a bit lighter on the other parts of the van? I am trying to figure out what I want to do but want to be weight conscious.
I'm only using baltic birch for my cabinets. I'm using a lighter birch for the walls.
Jason Klunk Jason Klunk thanks for all your inspiration and guidance with your videos! What was your main deciding factors to use plywood for your walls as opposed to tongue and groove for the walls as most do? I would like to get your insight. Thank you!
Thanks. Most of my walls will be covered so there was no point to doing anything like T&G. The front area will be covered by upper/lower cabinets and a backsplash. The back area will be covered by the bench seats and upper cabinets. I will be doing shiplap in the two small spots that are going to be visible.
Hey Jason ! loved this video it will help me a lot with my paneling ! , what screws did you use for your birch wood ?
Hey man what kind of screws did you use?
Hey, I used construction screws like this: www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-6-x-3-4-in-Philips-Square-Drive-Flat-Head-Full-Thread-Zinc-Coated-Multi-Material-Screw-45-per-Box-4101010350201/202040986
I used different sizes in different places, it just depends on what you have for furring strips.
Hi! First, thank you for all of your videos. I watched them repeatedly over the last few months and, now that I finally have my own Promaster, will refer to them even more....I'm a little confused, though...At the end of the video prior to this one (Episode 9), there are furring strips around the wheel well. At the beginning of this video, they aren't there any longer. Did you remove them and attach the plywood panel wall directly to the van metal or did you temporarily remove the furring strips?
No reflectix between thinsulate and paneling??
No, there are thoughts on both sides regarding vapor barriers - I don't like the idea of using one in a van.
@@JasonKlunk Right, a complex subject for sure, but you did foil tape the foil-faced polyiso for continuous membrane. Just pondering why you didn't perfect the rest of the envelope. BTW, excellent video production and content, thx.
Where is the video of the wiring of the van for lights, outlets, chargers, etc???
Coming soon, I'm not quite there yet.
Were you screwing the panels directly into the metal? Or into the rivet threads you had installed in prior videos?
Into my furring strips. The furring strips are attached to the van using the cross nut threads.
Did you countersink your screws?
Yes I did
Awesome dude 👍👍
Thanks 🤙