I own a 2012 Ford Falcon with the same 2.0 Ecoboost engine. It rattled from new and Ford did nothing when I complained about the rattle. It rattled upon light acceleration and on deceleration. After much messing around I learned that the wastegate on my car defaults to open and uses vacuum to close it upon start up. It did not have the wear shown on this video. It was just poorly adjusted and never fully closed. It turned out to be a simple enough task to use the adjustment nuts to adjust it so that the wastegate fully closed at idle. Power and torque improved, fuel consumption improved and no more noise. Fuel consumption improvement was 1/2L per 100km. My car now has 104,000km on it and runs beautifully.
You are right. When there is no wear, it is closed. As the wear increases, the tightening rod can not be closed. I almost changed the turbine for this focus ST 2.0T
I think I'd drill out the lever hole to make it round again and then press in a bronze bushing to make it like new again. Or just adding a spring to keep tension on the lever may be enough to stop the rattling. I know these aren't a "dealer" fix but for an owner on a budget it would save alot of money.
I so appreciate this video. So many waste gate videos just show "Slap a spring on this and it's fixed!" You're actually showing what is rattling, why its rattling, and help us understand the noise.
I don't even have a modern ford, but I watch all your vids in aww of your abilities to pin point these problems. I'd love to see you work on some older model Fords.
In my experience turbos seem to last 100-150k however if I also had to replace the CAT, I’d definitely try to have that arm bushed and see if I could squeeze another 50k out of it.
Thank you for your videos. You saved me alot of money from the dealer/parts changers. Had a completely clogged cat which caused misfires, pegged my pressure gauge at idle. they wanted to fix the misfires before swapping the clogged cat. Cat was under federal warranty by the way. With your videos I was able to intellegently argue my way to a new cat. And once that was done all the other problems dissapeared. Imagine that
Cat and not turbo? Under federal warranty? My dealer says it’s my cat and not turbo, even though I can reach down and wiggle the loose waste gate??? Anyway, how do I at least get covered under federal warranty?
I had a dealership try to sell me a 2013 F-150 EcoBoost that had a hard rattle on startup on the left side. I asked about it and was told it's fine. Just probably a shroud or something loose. It sounded worse to me. Turns out the one turbo was shot. I got my deposit back after an hour or so of high blood pressure "talking".
@@jaandel1 it gives you a shitload more power, I believe by recycling exhaust into forced induction, and a lot more fun, but at the cost of worse fuel economy by far when on boost, way more wear and tear on your motor and transmission because you'll be horsing it all the time, and more things that can go wrong. They're great if the vehicle isn't your only means of driving.
@@hkk3656 not so much a repair as a time-bomb reset if he's using OEM parts. Same piece of kit, integrated waste gate, failure-in-waiting. Just looks prettier.
@Martin Herndon possibly the owner didnt follow very strict maintenance standards an more wear within turbo!? The Ford EcoBoost motors gen1 & gen2 are reaching high mis w/orig turbos!
Alot of this might just be owner maintenance and it might not be. I Had a 16 fusion with the 1.5 ecoboost to 100k not a single issue. Now have the 2.7 ecoboost f150 at 50k and nothing yet. Probably alot of people with this issue and just as many without this issue. It is good information to know!
I loved my 2013 Taurus SHO when it ran right. Maintained it meticulously however the left turbo began to leak at 80k miles. Traded it in. No more turbo cars for me.
I’ve got a 2014 but I swapped out my turbos for aftermarket Garrett G25/550. I traded my ecoboost F150 because of how expensive maintenance is on the ecoboost engines.
@@RadDadisRad You know what happens with expensive owner funded maintenance it gets put off buy owners. Some owners will do it many/most will not. A lot of people switched from cars to trucks when cars went to front wheel drive they became fragile and harder to maintain. Trucks were simple and more durable. A lot of owners expect to last 200,000 to 300,000 miles or more and got it with not much more than oil changes lube jobs and brake jobs and a rare tuneup. Ford is about to lose its market share in light duty trucks as consumers and the used truck markets begin to realize the ECO boost engines are not going to make it for the long haul out in the real world. Chevy is also dumber yet bringing out a 4 Cylinder Turbo Silverado Pickup.
Actually it's a lost cause from the start turbocharged engines running more than 4-6lbs of boost are factually less efficient all the time because they have to have a lower compression ratio in order to prevent hotspots from forming on the piston and causing detination "knock" If you're not familiar with what knock is it's when the fuel ignites before top dead center in other words at the wrong time and it's really really bad. If your goal is fuel economy a naturally aspirated engine is much more efficient. Unless it's turbo diesel than it's a different story.
@@LynxStarAuto The turbos are sold to the customers by Ford not Garrett, for customers Ford is responsible. The Catalyst needing replacement was an additional problem for the customer because Ford changed the design. Way to take care of your customers Ford!
@@LynxStarAuto I am well aware of all factors impacting my vesicle ownership. including the heavy cost of new car depreciation. Having owned cars from US, Japan and Germany, I have a clear understanding who builds cars with best chances for easy ownership during and well beyond the warranty period :-) Oh... and its amazing how markets work, the cars with better durability had higher resale value when my ownership period was over.
I'm glad my 2002 Mustang GT 4.6 doesn't have a turbo and I live in a state (MI) that doesn't have emissions check. No cats. Car has been running great forever. I plan on keeping it forever.
Just make sure you torque those plugs properly, lost my '02 GT due to a shop's screwup that resulted in a blown plug and engine fire. Then, 4 years later, lost my '03 Mach 1 to an inattentive driver with no license or insurance. I love keeping my reliable old Fords on the road but when human error comes into the equation you're stuck looking for a replacement.
As others have stated i would live with the noise. It's NOT that bad at all. And thankfully my 2015 Lincoln MKC 2.O Ecoboost which is the same engine as the Ford Escape isn't doing this yet with 35k on it. I will say they are GREAT engines don't let this problem in the video deter you from these vehicles. They are solid vehicles. My next one will be a 2018 Ford Explorer Platinum with the 3.5 V6 ecoboost.
@Don Olypopper same mechanic told me the order of domestics he works on the most are Ford, then chevy, then dodge. so no im not too surprised about dodge.
@Don Olypopper just curious was it one of the newer ones ? I drove an 2015 6.7 for work a few years back it was supposed to have like 900ftlbs and it was a great truck never had a single issue with it drove amazing would peel out and haul ass. Realistically I think when they stared forcing stricter rules on everyone all the makers had a rough few years with their diesels. If I had to pick anything personally 4bt all day. But if I had to pick a truck...90s F350 XLT with a 7.3 idi please.
@Don Olypopper oh man things are engineered to fail nowadays for sure. No profit in repair just like Apple says. Like I said if I had to put a motor in one. Cummins. Ive just never like the looks of modern dodges. Edit: I put around 36k of hard hard labour on our truck alone regularly maxing payload while towing trailers and equipment all over WV took my leadfoot and more.
@Don Olypopper ive seen that at my local ford dealer. blew me away that the whole cab had to come off to do head work. ford sure likes to build them to generate labor money. if they cant gouge you enough on the parts they'll gouge you with the labor.
The old one can be fixed by putting a bushing on the outside linkage and tightening up the waste gate. I do not see why the whole expensive thing needs to be replaced. That's like buying complete new wheels when your tires are worn.
same as FCA 2.0l with 47k miles . Sets low boost code too. You can lengthen the rod a bit and get another 10k miles until flap leaks enough and needs to be replaced. It delays the boost a bit which feels better too. These are all the same issues that were common when turbos were popular in the 80s.
The strange thing is, here in Europe we barely have any problems... Ford uses the original oil at dealership from castrol. From my experience and having 2 ecoboost cars I have always changed oil 5w20 every 10000 km and my previous Ford fiesta was sold with 200 000km 0 issues no carbon build up problems, changed timing belt at 100k and never had to open engine and same 0 km power and speed after 200 000km. Change the oil with factory brand, because that is what it was designed for. And once in a while drive in the highway at higher average speeds you drive in the city like 120km/h 140km/h for some more extended periods and magic no carbon build up or whatsoever. Now I own a focus st (European model) with a 2.3 ecoboost 280hp and I will treat the same.
@@mrelectron6220 what doesn't help the economy is people have no money to spend anywhere else. And while this may bring ass-tons of revenue to the automotive repair industry, the rest of the industries suffer.
I have the 3.5 ecoboost F150 with a ten speed and i certainly didnt buy it for better fuel economy, but for the speed and enjoyment of having turbos. If it breaks, I will fix, i absolutely love it.
This is a 2012.. in 2017 they redesigned the turbo to use an electronically controlled wastegate. FordTechMakuloco, do you know if they have this same weakness on gen 2 EcoBoost ?
“Loose to pivot and seat perfectly.” Sounds like an excuse to manufacture shitty parts. Valves dont pivots loosely to seat perfectly. I’m sure they could do A LOT better with that linkage.
Are you shitting me? It’s a pass though valve that has one moving part and spins at no RPMs, the metal is too soft and built like trash. I’m convinced you didn’t watch the video.
I think the noise wouldn't have bothered me as much as dropping 2k plus labor, but the bypass valve not seating tightly against the surface it was intended to seat against would have been bleeding off boost.
1:46 Which is one of the reasons why when I'm done with my 2014 F150 ecoboost (early next year when I give it to my son), I won't be buying a turbo engine truck. Unless something drastic changes between now and then to change my mind, I'll be buying a GMC Canyon with the bib-turbo V6. I also want a smaller truck, so that's another reason for changing (and again, the Ranger is turbo, so that knock it out of the running for me...plus a few other things besides the fact that I just don't like the appearance of it as well as the Canyon). Oh and by the way, I have around 124k miles or so on my '14 ecoboost and so far, no engine/trans problems. No cold start rattle, etc. So I'm counting myself lucky ;-)
@@maykevin5 The Tundra is too big for me and even worse gas mileage, but other than that I really like it and it's a good value. I'm not really interested in the Tacoma for various reasons, so that leaves the Canyon as the option (for ME). I've seen no huge problems reported with them and I plan on the next purchase to be a long term ownership (10 years or more).
@@JAMESWUERTELE Have you heard about any common drivetrain problems with them? I haven't searched the forums yet to know if there are a lot of common issues.
You'll set overboost codes & could overspeed the compressor wheel causing it to explode. The shrapnel that makes it thru the intercooler will go thru the engine & grenade it as well. Still wanna tie that wastegate shut?
@@Nostradamus_Order33 how is that? Any turbo will explode if overboosted/oversped excessively. Bearing type has nothing to do with it. If centrifugal forces go beyond what the compressor or turbine wheel can withstand, it's coming apart in spectacular fashion. Usually it's the compressor wheel first because it's made out of weaker material.
I had a 2013 3.5L twin turbo, on cold starts the timing chain was slapping, noped out of that real quick and traded it for a 6.2L F-250. Never buying an Ecoboost again. If for some reason the 3/4 tons go to the Ecoboost in the future, i'll be switching manufacturers. Its a shame because i loved the truck, and its options, but sub par parts on a $45,000 truck just boggles my mind.
Same thing happened to my bosses ecoboost f-150. When I bought a new 1/2 ton truck I wanted a Ford but I'm not a fan of the Ecoboosts or overhead cam V8's so I ended up with a Dodge with a Hemi. I'm a Ford guy but if Ford would've offered the 7.3 gas engine in the F-150 I would've been all over that instead of a Dodge.
I could certainly fix that up, but I can see how a shop would just replace the unit, but you could certainly fix that play with a bushing or some weld.
Just had ours done over Thanksgiving week. Covered by Ford's CPO warranty. Here we are on January 10th and it is now making the same noise. Our Explorer has been in service for loads of stuff to include front engine cover seal, faulty seat belt buckle, defective hood paint, pealing adhesive interior door panel leather, recalled rear-end toe links, recalled emissions safety issue, dual-zone A/C blend door actuator fail, wheel hub bearing fail and finally a full turbo replacement Thanksgiving week. I hope they Lemon it - I'm done with Ford.
My 2015 f150 3.5 EcoBoost developed a rattle. instead of bringing it in I did some troubleshooting. Thankfully In my case it was failed clamps on the muffler heat shield. Easy fix!
@@FordTechMakuloco So I have a cold start rattle that I hear inside my 13 KR with the 3.5. Mostly from the passenger side. Still think it's this same issue? Was really hoping for a loose piece of interior trim but it goes away once the truck warms up. Already on the hook for a boost control valve and adapter, turbo oil lines, and a tranny line o ring. Glad its only at 68K
I bought a 2017 Escape with a 1.5L ecoboost for my wife and it's now at 50,000km and has had intercooler, intake plenum, and head gasket replaced. The problem started at 8000km and took ford 10,000km for them to diagnose (incorrectly) and repair. Got it back and same issue 8,000km laternow I had cracks in cylinder 2 and 3 so we got a new long block under warranty, 4,000 km later back in dealership and car was misfiring and running like crap got refreshed ran good. 3000 km later and it's back in the dealership getting rear differential rebuilt. Was a huge Ford guy but Ford Canada sure knows how to turn customers into Chevy Customers
Gonna see this more and more on all these new turbo motors as they age. I’ll take a V6 any day over this, I could care less about the torque or fuel economy.in comparison.
@@LynxStarAuto As someone who has spent a fair bit of time around German vehicles (VW/Audi specifically) turbo failures are nothing new, I've specifically avoided anything turbocharged because it's such a precise piece of equipment that undergoes such incredible stresses and any deviance from their tight tolerances can smoke the turbo and engine--I think it's technology best left to performance cars and not stuff the general population would drive.
That’s why I went with aftermarket OEM parts are junk, they have the aftermarket turbo kits for the Focus ST , I haven’t had a problem besides falling in love with the turbo flutter and Blow Off sound and cold air intake.
Ahhh crap ! Just another problem to worry about on my eco-escape. Between this, the drive transaxle lubrication issue and the fact that my escape goes thru batteries every two years, I think its time to dump this money pit for a Honda.
And this ladies and gentlemen is why you chuck those ecoboost trucks into the junkyard and go with the NA bigblocks they have this year. Ford learned their lesson.
I have a 3.5 eco, it makes a rattling noise from the engine most of the time when starting, cold or warm, and goes away after a bit.nHaven't tried the deceleration test, but doesn't sound like what's on this video. Only 37k miles. Has there been other issues for something else coming loose or wearing?
Farming... the 3.5 v6 both turbo and non-turbo have issues with the timing chain and cam phasers wearing out. Do a search, Makuloco did a video on it. I recently made that very repair on my buddies 2011 3.5 N/A engine. Made it like new again for about $1000 as opposed to a shop doing it for $3000.
Farming 4G I have a 19 3.5 that has this extreme wastegate rattle as well, it’s definitely not the timing chain or cam phasers. Next time you start your truck put some pressure on the wastegate actuator linkage with your finger (cold start) willing to bet the sound will subside
Thanks for the responses, I'll be looking into it and running some of your suggestions to narrow it. I did come across Makuloco's vids on the timing chains and that could be what's going on. It is a 2013 XLT The dealership I bought it from brand new has been good to work with, so I'll be taking it to them sometime... I'm confident they'll work something out to make it not as painful on the pocketbook.
Great video and also so annoying we I have this problem, the turbo seems fine, no shaft play etc but the housing on wastegate is loose like this video, can you not just replace the flapper or intake it that requires some machine work? I have seen the flapper for sale.
@@Davido50 Back in the day I could buy a Caterpillar turbo cartridge for $873 if I replaced it before the turbo failed, so I would do that as preventative maintenance. Cat doesn't offer them anymore so now I have to buy a rebuilt turbo for $2k. A person shouldn't have to replace a turbo because the waste gate has failed, there's something wrong with that picture.
@@LynxStarAuto Thanks for the info, I've never owned gas powered vehicle's with turbos, only diesels. I've always avoided turbocharged gas engines for that very reason but Ford has gone all in with them.
I have a 2013 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. Only 67,000 miles and i am starting to hear this...not going to deal with it now. only during morning start-up. All fluids and everything else is fine. When the time comes, will probably trade it in for a F350 with the 7.3. Or get a Toyota Tundra with the 5.7. My Sequoia with the 5.7 is ~12 years old with no issues. Turbo Engines are I guess a rebuild waiting to happen.
@@Jordan-ym5gf i think we have two different visions of how to use that wire. if i understand Pat correctly his idea would keep it functioning properly. someone else also floated the idea of using a bushing in the hole. for $2k id be willing to try anything.
@@Billy_Darley you are correct. I was thinking of it only being used to take up the slack. You'd think Ford would used hardened steel in those areas since they stupidly made it as one unit. Why in the world they didn't make it serviceable is beyond me. If you're gonna make a hard part that shitty you ought to at least engineer it to have those parts serviceable without needing to replace the entire assembly. They'd still make the same money in labor possibly even more, but the greedy bastards want to sell you a second shitty part.
@@patdennis3751 same thing was done to the transmissions in the explorer. Steel rod sliding thru an aluminum hole. Hard vs soft metal. Softer of the two always loses.
A lot of people have luck adjusting the waste gate actuator rod to take up the slack. Solves under boost and helps with a lot of the rattle. Just don’t over do it or you may have an overboost issue, just get the slack out.
nlitenurmind my 18 5.0 F-150 has the rattle but it’s not significant and sometimes isn’t there at all. I was concerned at first but after hitting 20,000 miles on it I’m not nearly as worried. I’ve sent my oil out to be tested after changes to determine if there’s anything unusual in it and it comes back with normal numbers every time. The truck doesn’t lack power and drives smooth. So unless they come up with a fix that does work and doesn’t send me back to the dealership multiple times, I’m probably gonna deal with the noise
New Fords last for three years, lightly driven....such as mine for three years around 40,000 miles.....3000+ dollars to get it running again just to sell it, before a major expensive break.....then the compound breaks begin. You borrow these cars for three years thinking expenses will be cheap but its more like you should be making huge sums of money for the three years to pay upwards to about 10,000 in repairs around the 50 - 100 thousand miles range. It's not like its a break of the most expensive things at the same time more like like over a mileage you'll fix something then another thing breaks that can be critical for the car to run.
After seeing this video, I passed on two used 2016 2.0L Escapes because of that noise. I actually totally scratched pre 2017 Escapes off my list and got a 2017 with the twin scroll turbo and beefed up engine lower end.
I had an 18 escape in with a misfire code. It was running fine but the customer stated it stumbles in the morning on first start up. It was under warranty so I suggested he took it in to the dealer he had just purchased the car from. I guess a bolt backs out and punctures the water to air charge cooler and the inter cooler coolant makes its way into the cylinder on start up.
I’ve a 2012 f 150 FX4 I drive every day it’s got 141 K on it just started leaking transmission fluid from the front of the transmission had the transmission service about two month ago any thing to look for
I could have swore that was an exhaust leak on my mustang ecoboost but never mind now I know what it is thank you! I guess technically it’s still an exhaust leak?!?!
My truck just went in today for this noise thankfully has full warranty still, ford says it's the cam phasers so I'm stuck with them having to replace them first 😑 they are tapping as well but definitely have the waste gate issue as well
I work for a Subaru dealership and there's a new recall every week. I bought the best extended warranty I could when I got mine, we'll see how it holds up and see if it's something I keep past the warranty. Our sister store sells Toyota, Chevy, and Cadillac with another store handling VW and Audi. Across all of these brands I can attest that not one of them builds a quality vehicle, perhaps the online reviews are right and Hyundai/Kia are worth looking into!
I have a 2011 F150 FX4 with 3.5L Ecoboost Engine. After spending $5,000 to have the timing chain replaced, all 4 new phasers, VCT Solenoids, all gaskets, 02 Sensor, filter screens in both turbos, fuel system service, replace engine air filter and new OEM oil filter, engine flush, oil change and all brand new spark plugs... including dropping the oil pan to check for debris/blockages in the uptake screen/tube... Ford says they still don't know what's making a "ticking / rattling" sound and they want to sell me a remanufactured engine.... After watching videos like this, I'm very inclined to just to get my truck, drive it home and figure it out myself... They're just guessing with my money at this point. I feel Ford service dept "gave up" and said, just buy one of our remanufactured engines....
Will M I feel the exact same way. I use to love vehicles. Now, a complete waste of money and pain in the ass. They are too expensive to buy, too expensive to maintain, too complicated, too expensive to fix when they break, and stuff like this always happens now.
What the difference between a wastegate rattle and the VCT rattle?? I have a rattle on cold start but kinda subsides after a brief moment but I can definitely hear it when I bump the accelerator.
And so this is why I haven't purchased a new car of any make for the last 20 years. The new technology is nice, but when it fails kids, you'll be crying when you have to pay to have it repaired!
I've long been a fan of buying something older for cheap, fixing it, and running it forever but have recently gotten fed up with having to fix old junk all of the time. I bought the first new car of my life about a month ago and it sure is nice knowing I can just get in and go somewhere without worrying about what's going to go wrong next. If something does go wrong, it comes with roadside service and a warranty to fix what's wrong. I'll take the loaner car from the dealership and run that until they fix what's wrong, it's a lot less stress than worrying about what's about to go wrong next on your old rig. I still love my old trucks, but there's something to be said for peace of mind.
How much boost did your Volvo make? I've driven some of those older Volvos and they're great cars but the throttle pedal just determines how much noise it makes, not what you get in terms of acceleration.
This is not only a Ford problem Volkswagen and Audi cars and BMW have similar issues mostly the bushings that the waste gate shaft pivots into wear out and causes a low boost fault. I’m curious what is brand Turbocharger is it it looks like a IHI one more way the turbo can fail on a Volkswagen CCTA engine is the V band clamp break where the two halves are connected opposite of the securing bolts this is a stupid failure because your can’t buy a replacement at the dealer only if you look enough online you can find a replacement. Looks like the turbo could be a Borg Wagner brand I thought only IHI had a V band holding the center cartridge to the turbine housing but I guess I was wrong.
I own a 2012 Ford Falcon with the same 2.0 Ecoboost engine. It rattled from new and Ford did nothing when I complained about the rattle. It rattled upon light acceleration and on deceleration. After much messing around I learned that the wastegate on my car defaults to open and uses vacuum to close it upon start up. It did not have the wear shown on this video. It was just poorly adjusted and never fully closed. It turned out to be a simple enough task to use the adjustment nuts to adjust it so that the wastegate fully closed at idle. Power and torque improved, fuel consumption improved and no more noise. Fuel consumption improvement was 1/2L per 100km. My car now has 104,000km on it and runs beautifully.
You are right. When there is no wear, it is closed. As the wear increases, the tightening rod can not be closed. I almost changed the turbine for this focus ST 2.0T
I think I'd drill out the lever hole to make it round again and then press in a bronze bushing to make it like new again.
Or just adding a spring to keep tension on the lever may be enough to stop the rattling.
I know these aren't a "dealer" fix but for an owner on a budget it would save alot of money.
I wouldn't use bronze. I would go with a stainless or high temp alloy. Bronze will work but wont last like the Stainless / HT alloy will.
@@DonkeyHammer yah on the inside.
You boys got great ideas. Hope ford is listening or they’ll prob just cash in on the parts. Nobody’s making durable parts anymore.
These are made out of chinesium metal , worthless
The bushing idea sounds good, and that internal part, maybe a couple of c clips or snap rings to act as shims
My favorite mechanic on TH-cam put out the first video of the year. Great times. Thanks Fordmakedyouloco!
Ford never let me dwn. Truth.
I so appreciate this video. So many waste gate videos just show "Slap a spring on this and it's fixed!" You're actually showing what is rattling, why its rattling, and help us understand the noise.
I don't even have a modern ford, but I watch all your vids in aww of your abilities to pin point these problems. I'd love to see you work on some older model Fords.
Some aftermarket company needs to make a bushing kit for this. Seems like your throwing good parts away
Machine shops do it for cheap. They cut the tab and weld a larger tab, machine the opening and add a phosphor bronze bushing.
Was going to say this, that old turbo is fixable for a fraction of the cost of the new one
In my experience turbos seem to last 100-150k however if I also had to replace the CAT, I’d definitely try to have that arm bushed and see if I could squeeze another 50k out of it.
Michael Dennis
If I owned a shop I’d only replace with new to prevent call backs.
turbo is tiny anyway,better off stepping the whole plan up
Thank you for your videos. You saved me alot of money from the dealer/parts changers. Had a completely clogged cat which caused misfires, pegged my pressure gauge at idle. they wanted to fix the misfires before swapping the clogged cat. Cat was under federal warranty by the way. With your videos I was able to intellegently argue my way to a new cat. And once that was done all the other problems dissapeared. Imagine that
Cat and not turbo? Under federal warranty? My dealer says it’s my cat and not turbo, even though I can reach down and wiggle the loose waste gate??? Anyway, how
do I at least get covered under federal warranty?
Thanks for the video man. I don't have this problem, but if I ever do I'll know exactly what's wrong. I always appreciate your videos.
I had a dealership try to sell me a 2013 F-150 EcoBoost that had a hard rattle on startup on the left side. I asked about it and was told it's fine. Just probably a shroud or something loose. It sounded worse to me. Turns out the one turbo was shot. I got my deposit back after an hour or so of high blood pressure "talking".
Thats terrible, glad u got your money back
Can you please explaim what the turbo really does ??? Or I just to make exhaust noise loud???
@@jaandel1 it gives you a shitload more power, I believe by recycling exhaust into forced induction, and a lot more fun, but at the cost of worse fuel economy by far when on boost, way more wear and tear on your motor and transmission because you'll be horsing it all the time, and more things that can go wrong.
They're great if the vehicle isn't your only means of driving.
Watching your videos from when you were at Ford til now. Just amazing. You sir are badass.
I have a 2014 1.5 EcoBoost Fusion. 146k highway miles over 3ish years. Never had a problem with anything
Wont be that far until starts to fall apart
I have a 2016 Titanium with the 2.0L at 63k miles, it's already falling apart
Hardly anyone does. This is new to me. I've owned 3 EcoBoost Fords. 2- Gen1. 1- Gen2
@@gianfrancoa what ur Hyundai?
I guess it's all about the owner and how you maintain your vehicle. 2014 with over 160k and it's still like new.
i have to hand it to you FordTechMakuloco, you picked the most lucrative brand for auto repair!
That's right! I know what I am doing....
Vw has same failures on their turbos.
@@Randomvoice246 because those turbos are also made by the same company, Garrett
@@hkk3656 not so much a repair as a time-bomb reset if he's using OEM parts.
Same piece of kit, integrated waste gate, failure-in-waiting. Just looks prettier.
For $2000 I would live with the noise for a while.👍😀
Absolutely. Let the next owner deal with it.
Charlie James 😂😂😂😂😂😂
It’s throwing a low boost code,here in Ny it wouldn’t pass emissions inspection .
Cant friggin barely hear it .. wtf
@Martin Herndon possibly the owner didnt follow very strict maintenance standards an more wear within turbo!? The Ford EcoBoost motors gen1 & gen2 are reaching high mis w/orig turbos!
Alot of this might just be owner maintenance and it might not be. I Had a 16 fusion with the 1.5 ecoboost to 100k not a single issue. Now have the 2.7 ecoboost f150 at 50k and nothing yet. Probably alot of people with this issue and just as many without this issue. It is good information to know!
I loved my 2013 Taurus SHO when it ran right. Maintained it meticulously however the left turbo began to leak at 80k miles. Traded it in. No more turbo cars for me.
I’ve got a 2014 but I swapped out my turbos for aftermarket Garrett G25/550. I traded my ecoboost F150 because of how expensive maintenance is on the ecoboost engines.
@@RadDadisRad How are the aftermarket turbo's compared to stock?
Unfortunately more and more vehicles are going turbo ever year
@@12wingwfetech
Cheaper to make power and mpg. The have been going away from the big v8s that use to last 200k plus
@@RadDadisRad You know what happens with expensive owner funded maintenance it gets put off buy owners. Some owners will do it many/most will not. A lot of people switched from cars to trucks when cars went to front wheel drive they became fragile and harder to maintain. Trucks were simple and more durable. A lot of owners expect to last 200,000 to 300,000 miles or more and got it with not much more than oil changes lube jobs and brake jobs and a rare tuneup. Ford is about to lose its market share in light duty trucks as consumers and the used truck markets begin to realize the ECO boost engines are not going to make it for the long haul out in the real world. Chevy is also dumber yet bringing out a 4 Cylinder Turbo Silverado Pickup.
c43 amg with 34k - this video is exactly my sound. thanks for the great vid
There goes all the fuel savings from buying a turbo four over a V6
The "fuel" was saved but your wallet not so much
Be sure its not a twin turbo V6! twice the waste gate fun....
Aris Torm ok boomer
Actually it's a lost cause from the start turbocharged engines running more than 4-6lbs of boost are factually less efficient all the time because they have to have a lower compression ratio in order to prevent hotspots from forming on the piston and causing detination "knock"
If you're not familiar with what knock is it's when the fuel ignites before top dead center in other words at the wrong time and it's really really bad. If your goal is fuel economy a naturally aspirated engine is much more efficient. Unless it's turbo diesel than it's a different story.
That turbo could have been repaired
Thanks for the tip for techs seeing these vehicles with high mileage. Happy New Years, man. Keep the good tech tips flowing.
Ford engineering appreciation for customers loyalty.
@@LynxStarAuto The turbos are sold to the customers by Ford not Garrett, for customers Ford is responsible. The Catalyst needing replacement was an additional problem for the customer
because Ford changed the design. Way to take care of your customers Ford!
@@LynxStarAuto I am well aware of all factors impacting my vesicle ownership.
including the heavy cost of new car depreciation. Having owned cars from US, Japan and Germany, I have a clear understanding who builds cars with best chances for easy ownership during and well beyond the warranty period :-) Oh... and its amazing how markets work, the cars with better durability had higher resale value when my ownership period was over.
@@LynxStarAuto built to Ford's specs.
I'm glad my 2002 Mustang GT 4.6 doesn't have a turbo and I live in a state (MI) that doesn't have emissions check. No cats. Car has been running great forever. I plan on keeping it forever.
Just make sure you torque those plugs properly, lost my '02 GT due to a shop's screwup that resulted in a blown plug and engine fire. Then, 4 years later, lost my '03 Mach 1 to an inattentive driver with no license or insurance. I love keeping my reliable old Fords on the road but when human error comes into the equation you're stuck looking for a replacement.
Comes back once a month, drops a bomb video, and *leaves*
As others have stated i would live with the noise. It's NOT that bad at all. And thankfully my 2015 Lincoln MKC 2.O Ecoboost which is the same engine as the Ford Escape isn't doing this yet with 35k on it. I will say they are GREAT engines don't let this problem in the video deter you from these vehicles. They are solid vehicles. My next one will be a 2018 Ford Explorer Platinum with the 3.5 V6 ecoboost.
Service writer: never ever heard an ecoboost have a turbo rattle. We've tried nothing and we're all out of ideas
@Don Olypopper last diesel mechanic i talked to said something to me that i thought made a lot of sense. "power costs money."
@Don Olypopper same mechanic told me the order of domestics he works on the most are Ford, then chevy, then dodge. so no im not too surprised about dodge.
@Don Olypopper just curious was it one of the newer ones ? I drove an 2015 6.7 for work a few years back it was supposed to have like 900ftlbs and it was a great truck never had a single issue with it drove amazing would peel out and haul ass. Realistically I think when they stared forcing stricter rules on everyone all the makers had a rough few years with their diesels. If I had to pick anything personally 4bt all day. But if I had to pick a truck...90s F350 XLT with a 7.3 idi please.
@Don Olypopper oh man things are engineered to fail nowadays for sure. No profit in repair just like Apple says. Like I said if I had to put a motor in one. Cummins. Ive just never like the looks of modern dodges. Edit: I put around 36k of hard hard labour on our truck alone regularly maxing payload while towing trailers and equipment all over WV took my leadfoot and more.
@Don Olypopper ive seen that at my local ford dealer. blew me away that the whole cab had to come off to do head work. ford sure likes to build them to generate labor money. if they cant gouge you enough on the parts they'll gouge you with the labor.
Now thats a noise I can live with . It will probably last another 200K Miles. Great Video!
The old one can be fixed by putting a bushing on the outside linkage and tightening up the waste gate. I do not see why the whole expensive thing needs to be replaced. That's like buying complete new wheels when your tires are worn.
Awesome video. Thank you. I am getting both my turbos replacedon my 2016 F150 with 2.7 EcoBoost. Im at 222,000 miles.
And being an almost lifetime mechanic myself I would have repaired it with a bushing or weld and machine repair.
no doubt about that , a simple fix for someone mechanically inclined
same as FCA 2.0l with 47k miles . Sets low boost code too. You can lengthen the rod a bit and get another 10k miles until flap leaks enough and needs to be replaced. It delays the boost a bit which feels better too. These are all the same issues that were common when turbos were popular in the 80s.
When mine goes, it's aftermarket turbo and tune. Forget stock crap.
it's a shitbox crossover suv, relax with the tune and upgraded hair dryer, guy.
Same. What’s 2-4K on a suv that’s 60k
256k miles on my volvo 850 turbo with the stock turbo. 0 issues and the car runs strong! Volvo used to build cars like tanks!
I think most folks would run that thing to failure.
The strange thing is, here in Europe we barely have any problems... Ford uses the original oil at dealership from castrol. From my experience and having 2 ecoboost cars I have always changed oil 5w20 every 10000 km and my previous Ford fiesta was sold with 200 000km 0 issues no carbon build up problems, changed timing belt at 100k and never had to open engine and same 0 km power and speed after 200 000km. Change the oil with factory brand, because that is what it was designed for. And once in a while drive in the highway at higher average speeds you drive in the city like 120km/h 140km/h for some more extended periods and magic no carbon build up or whatsoever. Now I own a focus st (European model) with a 2.3 ecoboost 280hp and I will treat the same.
$2000 in parts alone offsets all that fuel economy gained by running a smaller, turbo charged engine. No thanks.
phillijp
That’s an excellent point.
the actual fuel was saved, the owners wallet not so much. with the EPA they are only concerned about the fuel savings, not the cost to the consumer.
@@onenikkione right eco boost is really economy boost every time it has to be replaced it helps the economy LOL
@@mrelectron6220 what doesn't help the economy is people have no money to spend anywhere else. And while this may bring ass-tons of revenue to the automotive repair industry, the rest of the industries suffer.
I have the 3.5 ecoboost F150 with a ten speed and i certainly didnt buy it for better fuel economy, but for the speed and enjoyment of having turbos. If it breaks, I will fix, i absolutely love it.
Same problem on the N54 BMW turbos. Ecstuning makes a repair kit with new stainless parts. Looks like it might work to repair these turbos, as well.
This is a 2012.. in 2017 they redesigned the turbo to use an electronically controlled wastegate. FordTechMakuloco, do you know if they have this same weakness on gen 2 EcoBoost ?
Very cool video. I liked how you zoomed in on the problem and let us hear what it sounds like.
“Loose to pivot and seat perfectly.” Sounds like an excuse to manufacture shitty parts.
Valves dont pivots loosely to seat perfectly. I’m sure they could do A LOT better with that linkage.
Turbos get really hot spinning at 250,000 rpm they need wide tolerances, especially the waste/exhaust side
Are you shitting me? It’s a pass though valve that has one moving part and spins at no RPMs, the metal is too soft and built like trash. I’m convinced you didn’t watch the video.
Thanks for this video. I have a Volvo S80 with this engine. And are getting crazy of the bad sound from the engine. Now I get the picture.
I think the noise wouldn't have bothered me as much as dropping 2k plus labor, but the bypass valve not seating tightly against the surface it was intended to seat against would have been bleeding off boost.
exactly bro
I love Turbos,....on my third turbocharged car now, 2015 golf TSI 1.8, 170 hp,2017 GTI 2.0 210 hp, now 2018 Golf R 2.0 Turbo 292 hp,...love torque
The worst part about this is, the turbo isn't even bad, which is what everyone was worried about. The parts supporting the turbo are causing problems!
1:46 Which is one of the reasons why when I'm done with my 2014 F150 ecoboost (early next year when I give it to my son), I won't be buying a turbo engine truck. Unless something drastic changes between now and then to change my mind, I'll be buying a GMC Canyon with the bib-turbo V6. I also want a smaller truck, so that's another reason for changing (and again, the Ranger is turbo, so that knock it out of the running for me...plus a few other things besides the fact that I just don't like the appearance of it as well as the Canyon). Oh and by the way, I have around 124k miles or so on my '14 ecoboost and so far, no engine/trans problems. No cold start rattle, etc. So I'm counting myself lucky ;-)
This would be the second mistake you make "I'll be buying a GMC" I bought a Toyota and haven't regretted it. 240,000 miles and still drives like new.
@@maykevin5 The Tundra is too big for me and even worse gas mileage, but other than that I really like it and it's a good value. I'm not really interested in the Tacoma for various reasons, so that leaves the Canyon as the option (for ME). I've seen no huge problems reported with them and I plan on the next purchase to be a long term ownership (10 years or more).
Hooked on Photography you need to research more on the GM twins… they are junk.
@@JAMESWUERTELE Have you heard about any common drivetrain problems with them? I haven't searched the forums yet to know if there are a lot of common issues.
I can hear Scotty saying "I told you so" 😛
Said the same thing
I can hear him blaming fiat for this.
"Just endless money pits!" :-D
And ppl say my vw is a money pit jajajajaja
@@N3PRO-Dave Ha ha. Perfect
What happens if you dont fix it? Most people tie the wast gate open for more power, thanks for showing these things and please keep up the good work
Paul Fiebke
You mean, tie it closed
You'll set overboost codes & could overspeed the compressor wheel causing it to explode. The shrapnel that makes it thru the intercooler will go thru the engine & grenade it as well.
Still wanna tie that wastegate shut?
David Oliver
That scenario would not happen on a journal bearing turbo. Just saying 💁♂️
@@Nostradamus_Order33 how is that? Any turbo will explode if overboosted/oversped excessively. Bearing type has nothing to do with it. If centrifugal forces go beyond what the compressor or turbine wheel can withstand, it's coming apart in spectacular fashion. Usually it's the compressor wheel first because it's made out of weaker material.
I had a 2013 3.5L twin turbo, on cold starts the timing chain was slapping, noped out of that real quick and traded it for a 6.2L F-250. Never buying an Ecoboost again. If for some reason the 3/4 tons go to the Ecoboost in the future, i'll be switching manufacturers. Its a shame because i loved the truck, and its options, but sub par parts on a $45,000 truck just boggles my mind.
Same thing happened to my bosses ecoboost f-150. When I bought a new 1/2 ton truck I wanted a Ford but I'm not a fan of the Ecoboosts or overhead cam V8's so I ended up with a Dodge with a Hemi. I'm a Ford guy but if Ford would've offered the 7.3 gas engine in the F-150 I would've been all over that instead of a Dodge.
@@thealgorithmisbroken wait until you see the roller lifter turn sideways and eat out the camshaft , a common problem with those
@@johnh9507 ya I heard about the Hemi's eating up camshaft lobes. Hopefully that's a long way down the road lol.
I could certainly fix that up, but I can see how a shop would just replace the unit, but you could certainly fix that play with a bushing or some weld.
Matt's Garage 100% agree
Just had ours done over Thanksgiving week. Covered by Ford's CPO warranty. Here we are on January 10th and it is now making the same noise. Our Explorer has been in service for loads of stuff to include front engine cover seal, faulty seat belt buckle, defective hood paint, pealing adhesive interior door panel leather, recalled rear-end toe links, recalled emissions safety issue, dual-zone A/C blend door actuator fail, wheel hub bearing fail and finally a full turbo replacement Thanksgiving week. I hope they Lemon it - I'm done with Ford.
Had three Ford explorers. Never made it past 50k. All kinds of promblems..minor an major..now have 2016 transit. 50420 mi...
My 2015 f150 3.5 EcoBoost developed a rattle. instead of bringing it in I did some troubleshooting. Thankfully In my case it was failed clamps on the muffler heat shield. Easy fix!
Is this a common issue to look for on a 16 2.7 ecoboost or a 15 3.5 ecoboost as well
All Ecoboost engines
@@FordTechMakuloco So I have a cold start rattle that I hear inside my 13 KR with the 3.5. Mostly from the passenger side. Still think it's this same issue? Was really hoping for a loose piece of interior trim but it goes away once the truck warms up.
Already on the hook for a boost control valve and adapter, turbo oil lines, and a tranny line o ring. Glad its only at 68K
@@FordTechMakuloco kinda figured it would be all EcoBoost but wanted to make sure thanks love the videos keep up the good work
I bought a 2017 Escape with a 1.5L ecoboost for my wife and it's now at 50,000km and has had intercooler, intake plenum, and head gasket replaced. The problem started at 8000km and took ford 10,000km for them to diagnose (incorrectly) and repair. Got it back and same issue 8,000km laternow I had cracks in cylinder 2 and 3 so we got a new long block under warranty, 4,000 km later back in dealership and car was misfiring and running like crap got refreshed ran good. 3000 km later and it's back in the dealership getting rear differential rebuilt. Was a huge Ford guy but Ford Canada sure knows how to turn customers into Chevy Customers
Gonna see this more and more on all these new turbo motors as they age. I’ll take a V6 any day over this, I could care less about the torque or fuel economy.in comparison.
@@LynxStarAuto As someone who has spent a fair bit of time around German vehicles (VW/Audi specifically) turbo failures are nothing new, I've specifically avoided anything turbocharged because it's such a precise piece of equipment that undergoes such incredible stresses and any deviance from their tight tolerances can smoke the turbo and engine--I think it's technology best left to performance cars and not stuff the general population would drive.
@@406Steven I was going to write that, but then I realized you did.
That’s why I went with aftermarket OEM parts are junk, they have the aftermarket turbo kits for the Focus ST , I haven’t had a problem besides falling in love with the turbo flutter and Blow Off sound and cold air intake.
Sounds like my garbage disposal when I couple of popcorn kernals fall in there.
It does!
Great video learn a lot. I don't own a ford but its good to learn stuff. .THank you for the video.
Good job and professional
Brian is the man!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Happy New Years!
Ahhh crap ! Just another problem to worry about on my eco-escape. Between this, the drive transaxle lubrication issue and the fact that my escape goes thru batteries every two years, I think its time to dump this money pit for a Honda.
And this ladies and gentlemen is why you chuck those ecoboost trucks into the junkyard and go with the NA bigblocks they have this year. Ford learned their lesson.
I have a 3.5 eco, it makes a rattling noise from the engine most of the time when starting, cold or warm, and goes away after a bit.nHaven't tried the deceleration test, but doesn't sound like what's on this video. Only 37k miles. Has there been other issues for something else coming loose or wearing?
Farming... the 3.5 v6 both turbo and non-turbo have issues with the timing chain and cam phasers wearing out. Do a search, Makuloco did a video on it. I recently made that very repair on my buddies 2011 3.5 N/A engine. Made it like new again for about $1000 as opposed to a shop doing it for $3000.
What year is the vehicle and model
Farming 4G I have a 19 3.5 that has this extreme wastegate rattle as well, it’s definitely not the timing chain or cam phasers.
Next time you start your truck put some pressure on the wastegate actuator linkage with your finger (cold start) willing to bet the sound will subside
Thanks for the responses, I'll be looking into it and running some of your suggestions to narrow it. I did come across Makuloco's vids on the timing chains and that could be what's going on. It is a 2013 XLT
The dealership I bought it from brand new has been good to work with, so I'll be taking it to them sometime... I'm confident they'll work something out to make it not as painful on the pocketbook.
Great video and also so annoying we I have this problem, the turbo seems fine, no shaft play etc but the housing on wastegate is loose like this video, can you not just replace the flapper or intake it that requires some machine work? I have seen the flapper for sale.
I wouldn't be happy either, 90k is nothing on a car that's been well maintained.
William Wade not at all, we get 150-200 k trouble free from our work trucks and there run hard , 3/4 t 6.0 Chevy/GMC.
@@JohnDiMartino theres no issue with motors here ur comparing apples to oranges.
@@Davido50 Back in the day I could buy a Caterpillar turbo cartridge for $873 if I replaced it before the turbo failed, so I would do that as preventative maintenance. Cat doesn't offer them anymore so now I have to buy a rebuilt turbo for $2k. A person shouldn't have to replace a turbo because the waste gate has failed, there's something wrong with that picture.
@@LynxStarAuto Thanks for the info, I've never owned gas powered vehicle's with turbos, only diesels. I've always avoided turbocharged gas engines for that very reason but Ford has gone all in with them.
@@williamwade7059 I cant argue with that logic. I'm just not seeing failures across a wide range of engines...or in my personal case ..none.
I have a 2013 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. Only 67,000 miles and i am starting to hear this...not going to deal with it now. only during morning start-up. All fluids and everything else is fine. When the time comes, will probably trade it in for a F350 with the 7.3. Or get a Toyota Tundra with the 5.7. My Sequoia with the 5.7 is ~12 years old with no issues. Turbo Engines are I guess a rebuild waiting to happen.
Nothing a little spot weld can't fix. 🤣👍
I was thinking the same thing!
Spot weld what exactly? Every part is a pivot point and must turn free. The flapper valve must also be loose to seat.
@@FordTechMakuloco that was a joke bud.
@@FordTechMakuloco weld the worn hole in the arm and redrill the correct size for the pivot
Simon Legros you know that might actually work an for $2000 I’d definitely give it a shot
You can use some steel wire to tighten that lever on the waste gate to hold it tighter
It wouldn't be perfect but will take away some of that noise
Turbos are fun but suck to replace when they eventually die.
My next car will be an NA.
I've have my fun with Turbos.
Bad ass vid.. finally i can see turbo
I'd just wrap some lacing wire around that and take up the slack before I threw down 2K on an entire new unit.
now that ive seen the video i fully agree with you.
You need the wastegate to open in order for the turbo to function properly though.
@@Jordan-ym5gf i think we have two different visions of how to use that wire. if i understand Pat correctly his idea would keep it functioning properly. someone else also floated the idea of using a bushing in the hole. for $2k id be willing to try anything.
@@Billy_Darley you are correct. I was thinking of it only being used to take up the slack. You'd think Ford would used hardened steel in those areas since they stupidly made it as one unit. Why in the world they didn't make it serviceable is beyond me. If you're gonna make a hard part that shitty you ought to at least engineer it to have those parts serviceable without needing to replace the entire assembly. They'd still make the same money in labor possibly even more, but the greedy bastards want to sell you a second shitty part.
@@patdennis3751 same thing was done to the transmissions in the explorer. Steel rod sliding thru an aluminum hole. Hard vs soft metal. Softer of the two always loses.
A lot of people have luck adjusting the waste gate actuator rod to take up the slack. Solves under boost and helps with a lot of the rattle. Just don’t over do it or you may have an overboost issue, just get the slack out.
Always, a "better idea from Ford"
Wish you'd do a video on replacing the turbo for the 1.6L!
Did they figure out the 5.0 tick/rattle on 18-19 F150? I heard the fix is not working.
nlitenurmind my 18 5.0 F-150 has the rattle but it’s not significant and sometimes isn’t there at all. I was concerned at first but after hitting 20,000 miles on it I’m not nearly as worried. I’ve sent my oil out to be tested after changes to determine if there’s anything unusual in it and it comes back with normal numbers every time. The truck doesn’t lack power and drives smooth. So unless they come up with a fix that does work and doesn’t send me back to the dealership multiple times, I’m probably gonna deal with the noise
Whoa?! Problems with a non-turbo engine?? You don’t say...
Bore liner right?
Nah they just drinking oil like a drunken sailor
Amazing. I'd fab a bronze bush for that worn pivot for a grand on your next one. I'm in the UK, I'll pay the return postage! :-D
New Fords last for three years, lightly driven....such as mine for three years around 40,000 miles.....3000+ dollars to get it running again just to sell it, before a major expensive break.....then the compound breaks begin.
You borrow these cars for three years thinking expenses will be cheap but its more like you should be making huge sums of money for the three years to pay upwards to about 10,000 in repairs around the 50 - 100 thousand miles range.
It's not like its a break of the most expensive things at the same time more like like over a mileage you'll fix something then another thing breaks that can be critical for the car to run.
Please do a video on the flaws in the engine and 10R80 transmission designs of 2018+ Mustangs.
My wife’s 2014 edge did the after about 50k. They replaced the turbo.
After seeing this video, I passed on two used 2016 2.0L Escapes because of that noise. I actually totally scratched pre 2017 Escapes off my list and got a 2017 with the twin scroll turbo and beefed up engine lower end.
Any harm to ignoring the turbo rattle?
Eventually it will throw a P0299 Under boost.
@@FordTechMakuloco Does that light up the CEL or will it only be found through an OBD scan?
I had an 18 escape in with a misfire code. It was running fine but the customer stated it stumbles in the morning on first start up. It was under warranty so I suggested he took it in to the dealer he had just purchased the car from. I guess a bolt backs out and punctures the water to air charge cooler and the inter cooler coolant makes its way into the cylinder on start up.
Whats even more depressing is the rust starting on the bottom of the door and the fact that you cant just replace that actuator bracket by itself.
What are your opinions on the 2.7L ecoboost. Just bought a fusion sport 2018.
I’ve a 2012 f 150 FX4 I drive every day it’s got 141 K on it just started leaking transmission fluid from the front of the transmission had the transmission service about two month ago any thing to look for
I'd see if it's just leaking from the pan. It may just be loose bolts or a bad pan gasket hopefully.
No it’s no the pan I’m afraid it’s the front seal because it’s up in that area but just to start one morning
I had the same problem. Ford said it was a defective pan. Under warranty I had it replaced.
If it's a pan leak it should be easily identified. I've read F150 transmissions have a known problem called a bulkhead leak.
Eric I looked at the pan it’s not pan it looks like it’s coming down and getting on the oil pan and saw bar
I could have swore that was an exhaust leak on my mustang ecoboost but never mind now I know what it is thank you! I guess technically it’s still an exhaust leak?!?!
Another reason to buy the V8 in the F150
I'm so glad I got the 3.7 without the EcoBoost cuz I've seen nothing but problems with that engine setup
Wastegate rattle ha.
N54 engines have been dealing with this for a decade, the difference Is theirs 2 Turbos.
My truck just went in today for this noise thankfully has full warranty still, ford says it's the cam phasers so I'm stuck with them having to replace them first 😑 they are tapping as well but definitely have the waste gate issue as well
Is nothing made to last anymore?
jon jonsson
No
I work for a Subaru dealership and there's a new recall every week. I bought the best extended warranty I could when I got mine, we'll see how it holds up and see if it's something I keep past the warranty. Our sister store sells Toyota, Chevy, and Cadillac with another store handling VW and Audi. Across all of these brands I can attest that not one of them builds a quality vehicle, perhaps the online reviews are right and Hyundai/Kia are worth looking into!
I have a 2011 F150 FX4 with 3.5L Ecoboost Engine. After spending $5,000 to have the timing chain replaced, all 4 new phasers, VCT Solenoids, all gaskets, 02 Sensor, filter screens in both turbos, fuel system service, replace engine air filter and new OEM oil filter, engine flush, oil change and all brand new spark plugs... including dropping the oil pan to check for debris/blockages in the uptake screen/tube... Ford says they still don't know what's making a "ticking / rattling" sound and they want to sell me a remanufactured engine.... After watching videos like this, I'm very inclined to just to get my truck, drive it home and figure it out myself... They're just guessing with my money at this point. I feel Ford service dept "gave up" and said, just buy one of our remanufactured engines....
Thanks for sharing. You just proved to me another reason not to buy turbo vehicle. Under 100k miles of use is unacceptable.
brad mironik Something broke on my non-turbo Toyota. This just proved to me another reason to not buy a non-turbo vehicle.
I have had many turbocharged cars and trucks. I have a 2012 f150 3 5 twin turbo now. 74k miles. Not a single issue.
Will M I feel the exact same way. I use to love vehicles. Now, a complete waste of money and pain in the ass. They are too expensive to buy, too expensive to maintain, too complicated, too expensive to fix when they break, and stuff like this always happens now.
Hi, thanks for all your tech information. Is the a kit for wastegate flapper replacements on a 2019 f150 3.5 ecoboost.?
I have never trusted turbos and never will, unless the industry forces me to (pun not intended). Give me a V-6 or straight 4, non-turbo.
What the difference between a wastegate rattle and the VCT rattle?? I have a rattle on cold start but kinda subsides after a brief moment but I can definitely hear it when I bump the accelerator.
pour design, or designed to fail. The latter me thinks.
Ford engineering
@@JFomo so basically both
Turbos always have to be maintained. Superchargers are less maintenance.
@@Hatefully_Commiefornian Turbo parts are like tires. If you use them they wear out.
@@Hatefully_Commiefornian It's cool.
Thank you for the information. Great video.
And so this is why I haven't purchased a new car of any make for the last 20 years. The new technology is nice, but when it fails kids, you'll be crying when you have to pay to have it repaired!
I've long been a fan of buying something older for cheap, fixing it, and running it forever but have recently gotten fed up with having to fix old junk all of the time. I bought the first new car of my life about a month ago and it sure is nice knowing I can just get in and go somewhere without worrying about what's going to go wrong next. If something does go wrong, it comes with roadside service and a warranty to fix what's wrong. I'll take the loaner car from the dealership and run that until they fix what's wrong, it's a lot less stress than worrying about what's about to go wrong next on your old rig. I still love my old trucks, but there's something to be said for peace of mind.
@@406Steven Till the warranty runs out ---- !
My k03 B&W off my vw was rattling. I adjusted the wasregate actuator arm like 30k miles ago and it's still going g strong hitting 18 pounds of boost.
That makes sense. VAG and Ford both use the K03 and I’ve seen this issue come up a lot.
Strange my old 940 Volvo got over 300K out of the original turbo.
Not the Volvos in last 5yrs or so. Plenty Ford EcoBoost are getting to 200k mis with orig turbos.
David Klimmek
I’ll never own a FWD Volvo. When they started that their quality went downhill.
How much boost did your Volvo make? I've driven some of those older Volvos and they're great cars but the throttle pedal just determines how much noise it makes, not what you get in terms of acceleration.
UnsulliedSpy
I don’t think it was much probably around 9 pounds. I never modified it so it was stock.
This is not only a Ford problem Volkswagen and Audi cars and BMW have similar issues mostly the bushings that the waste gate shaft pivots into wear out and causes a low boost fault. I’m curious what is brand Turbocharger is it it looks like a IHI one more way the turbo can fail on a Volkswagen CCTA engine is the V band clamp break where the two halves are connected opposite of the securing bolts this is a stupid failure because your can’t buy a replacement at the dealer only if you look enough online you can find a replacement. Looks like the turbo could be a Borg Wagner brand I thought only IHI had a V band holding the center cartridge to the turbine housing but I guess I was wrong.
Upgrading the sound system is cheaper 🤠
"Super expensive repair "three words you never want to hear! This is just crazy 😜