WIFI Endoscope- amzn.to/2NXpH7h Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
What would cause a load up affect when driving if i floor it from a stop the truck has power but at higher speeds 20+ my 2013 3.5 f150 is a dog it literally happened overnight. Idle sometimes is erratic and it tripped a p0016 twice.
Thanks for the video, great job! I like the bore scope. I bought a cheaper one off Amazon and gave it away, couldn't see anything. I bought a 300 dollar snapon and it's just a tick better. I'll give this a go.
You know you have a good channel, and are a great teacher/instructor when I don’t have a car or engine that has anything to do with this topic.....yet I watched all 30 minutes. You, sir, have a gift !
When I bought my Fiesta ST, the first thing I did was install a catch can on it. It’s been 30k miles, no issues yet. I clean it when doing oil change, it’s always got junk in it.
Yup same here. Just picked up a used 2016 with 47k on the clock and gonna get the BG intake service done and then get a catch can kit bought to not worry about it afterwards. Did you get just the PCV kit or one with both CCV and PCV?
I wouldnt do the bg induction service as there is a high likelihood it will reduce the long term catalytic converter efficiency. It's not a official ford motor company recomended service. It is a dealer retail service department upsale.
Mike Litorus, Every time I heard him say "Good to go" I was imagining someone else out there taking a shot. Thank you for being the designated drinker and sparing me the hangover.
I just want to say, I’ve been watching your videos for several years now (5+) off an on and you give me know impression as to being anything other than a outstanding first rate ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ auto mechanic. We’d all be lucky to have you work on our vehicles. Enjoyed this one and so many others. This video in particular isn’t relevant to anything I’ve got going on but you have helped me in the past. Your instruction is top notch!👍 Thank you, and keep it up!!
Speaking of trucks, I just picked up a 2018 F150 with the 3.5L ecoboost! After following your videos on the 5.4L and changing out the Timing Chains, Phasers. Oil pump etc. it has been a ride. Now I get to learn all about the 3.5!!! Thanks Brian!
THIS is what I like about you! As I've mentioned a few times here, I'm a Retired Ford Tech and Driveability Specialist. Back in the 80's, we had to DIAGNOSE Problems! Pinout Checks, Breakout Boxes, and often lots of disassembly and inspection - before we actually got to the root cause. (MUCH harder on EEC III and IV Vehicles!!!)😖 From what I've seen of Techs today - most of them operate by pure Procedure... Scan, work through the Manual (maybe), even something as archaic as pulling Coil Pack Plugs - to try to find misfires! If they do find anything - "Could not replicate customer concern" on the Ticket - and off to the Writer!!! 😠 I've seen it from Friend's experiences. WE WEREN'T ALLOWED to do that! You actually WORK the problem, like we used to do. I really appreciate that integrity still exists! Carmine ✈🚂🚙
I'm probably around your age but I worked on mostly GM I thought the GMs were a little easier to diagnose back in the 80s OBD1 because all you had to do was count the CK engine light flashes to get you started on some kind of path Ford seemed a lot less mechanic friendly and we won't even talk about dodge ,chrysler
@@johnmitchell2741 with the introduction of EEC-IV, we finally had SES light counting for quick codes too.... Before that - OBD was a JOKE!! Even involving things like "slamming the Driver's Door with the Vehicle in Drive", or "jumping the underhood plug, then rapidly turning the Steering Wheel, then flash the Headlights"!!! Not kidding! I will always admit, early GM OBD Systems were MUCH easier to work with. And you're right, we'll leave Chrysler out of this - especially "Lean Burn".
I just gutted a EEC-2 and variable Venturi carb off a 80 grand Marquis coupe 351w. Hated it, so much garbage for EGR and smog. I'm in the motor City and we don't do emissions here so she's now a 400hp unleashed beast. Off loading all that crap I have the car down to 3350lbs and ultimate sleeper status. 408 stroker with a 150 shot next. Upgraded rear, trailing arms, 2002 brakes and spindles. It was fun to build and only happens because the eec 2 and variable Venturi carb had to go. At 42k miles it was rough running to say the least.
sir, your ford scanner is a blessing on top of your qualifications. Nobody have such data and equipment at their disposal. keep up the good work and the best of luck. all the aftermarket scanners are limited and time-consuming. thank you for your effort.
You have to admit, the task functions the scanner does saves time and aggravation, assuming they're accurate. Great info! Look forward to the conclusion video.Thanks.
Clear and easy to follow explanations. I am thinking to buy 2012 Ford Fiesta with only 147K with blown transmission, price is under 1K$ as my car project. Your videos are so helpful. Thanks Brian.
Buy cheapest Mazda 2( Fiestas twin that has none of its faults) it will be cheaper than your project, put it apart and back for fun/ learning not cause you have to, drive it like you stole it, 2 was built for that not to be service dept cash cow like Fail-esta
In the UK we wouldn’t be using the word ‘only’ with 147k. For a fiesta that’s worn out! (And I like my Fords). With Ford’s 1L Ecoboost, 147k would be pretty much unheard of!
Great video showing classic logical diagnostic sequencing of an issue especially when there are no codes set. It is amazing how the best mechanics that produce videos on TH-cam all have very similar steps they follow that, one by one, eliminates potential causes of the issue until there is only one left. Funny how this consistency in diagnostic techniques is so similar. I don't think it is a coincidence! All new mechanics should watch you, Eric O. and scanner Danner at the very least to lay a good foundation of being a vehicle diagnostician rather than a parts changer with a powerful parts cannon. Good job!!
Hey, I have watched all of your videos and I can't remember any where you talked about a "carbon issue". You kept saying "carbon issue" and I kept thinking "what is he talking about?" It took until the very end of the video for me to realize that you meant carbon buildup on the intake valves. And, you seemed very confident, but the problem was on 2 and 4 but you said the PCV enters at 2 and 3. So, really looking forward to the next video to understand what the real problem was. The diagnostics were great. But I didn't see a real solution at the end. Love your channel, keep it going.
educational video for us non truck Ford ecoboost owners. I hope you’ll upload more often videos of troubleshooting small ecoboost Fords and usage of IDS diagnostics system . This kind of information is rare on yt Thanks
Got a Focus ST. Watched the whole video 👍🏻I cleaned the valves by soaking them with CRC valve cleaner, scrubbing them vigorously with a small circular nylon brush, than vacuumed out the gunk. Repeated the process many times until the valves were much cleaner. Couldn’t get them to factory new by the massive carbon buildup was gone. Than I installed a mishimoto catch can.
One of my coworkers had this same issue with his ST. His was even setting a code for misfires within so many revolutions after start. His solution was a good intake valve cleaning, PCV catch can, and adding a Meth injection kit. He runs hard enough to activate the meth and hasn't had any issues in 4 years.
Something that helps with that is a catch can. I have one on my eco boost and it is an engine saving device. You would not believe all the oil, water and unburnt fuel I get out at every fill up.
I've never been as nervous about a vehicle as when I found out my Subaru has direct injection after buying it. I've got just shy of 18k miles on it currently and plan to do induction services every 30K but I don't expect that it's going to be trouble free. I'm not going to do a catch can or any kind of modification because it's under warranty and I bought the 10 year/150K mile extended warranty and don't want to invalidate that by modifying any of the original systems.
you are really someone who knows his job very well and how to explain in a simple way to those who do not know. i have the same problem on a 1.6 ecoboost, at idle you hear from the exhaust exactly the same noises you show in the video, but why if I turn on the climate the noises disappear? I hope you will find the time to answer me. thank you for your availability.
My 2013 Escape with the 2.0 liter Ecoboost engine was missing badly from 2000 to 4000 rpm. No error codes. The engine has been dealer serviced every 5000 miles and now has 120,000 miles. I put in new Iridium plugs at 100,000 miles. Lately, I have been driving short trips only and the engine sputters when accelerating. I decided to replace the spark coils. The engine runs 90% better. I used Motorcraft coils, because I hear that some other brands may cause radio interference. They are easy to replace in an hour. The cost of about $220 seems worth it, and Rock Auto got them to me in 3 days. I'm still getting some burble noise from the exhaust system near the cats or turbo. My mileage has improved too. So it seems true that the "coil on plug" coils do get weak after 100,000 miles.
Man the fun I could have with a scan tool like that even if I know exactly what the issue was I'd be running thru all the test just for fun like you thanks.
Good video. Too many times we make the assumption we know what the issue is then test to proves ourselves correct. A methodical standard test procedure is the right way to go to be sure.
Aussie 2014 Ford Falcon with the 4L inline six running on LPG (EcoLpi). Same issue and mine turned out to be a bad intake gasket. Decreasing the spark plug gap from 1.1mm to 0.9mm also helped getting rid of cold engine missfire. I use Forscan to check for missfire.
Heard that before. After you do the hard diagnostics, the customer says, “I don’t have time today, but, I’ll bring it back”, never to be seen again. They take it to their tech and have then do the repair
I’ve seen that many times and most of the time the vehicle returns on a tow truck after getting our diagnosis take it to there tech comes back job not done right and can I please get a discount
Great video, Brian. I have two cars with the 2.3L Ecoboost and have decided to put catch cans on both of them. Hopefully, this will prevent the carbon buildup on the valves. Looking forward to see part two; cleaning the valves. Interested to see how you do that job.
You are a legend. The most comprehensive and detailed analysis of any YT video of this issue. I had exactly the same problem in my 2015 Mustang EcoBoost which I use very rarely . I thought it was a cracked head gasket but I think carbon build up is the culprit.
Fantastic video can't wait to see the 2nd part. I had one of those cars in England for 4 years never missed a beat, fantastic to drive too. I really regret letting it go... I have a fiesta st mk8 now, good car but not as good as the focus.
I'd like to see this carbon issue..I was leaning on a crack in the intake or a bad seal on the mating surfaces of the intake. Seen this alot on the vortec v6 with those plastic intakes...sucks
The dealer or any shop do the intake service on a Ecoboost. If a chunk of carbon breaks off it can damage the turbo. Some get lucky others don’t. Depends on how dirty it is, manual cleaning is recommended on the.
Thats why you should be very concerned when you take your car to be repaired even the dealerships have under trained Technicians ,its a cutthroat business you typically get very little $ to diagnoses a customer complaint especially if you don't have a trouble code for reference most technicians only make minimal flat rate when they are actually doing the repair it's a hard way to make a living that's why I got out of working at dealerships and small shops and started working on heavy equipment for a large municipality with and a decent hourly wage.Retired now at 60 with a neck and lower back fusion to show for it.And even though I'm a hurting unit NOBODY TOUCHES MY CAR BUT ME
@@johnmitchell2741 very true and funny that you say that. I'm a auto technician at my local municipality as well. Way better work environment, wages and pension . I'll never go back to dealer or private shops either !
Thanks for another solid video. I subscribed to your channel for the F-150 stuff...but I certainly love to see videos on other Ford vehicles, as well! Please feel free to cover them all! Cheers!
I love trucks! Just got a 2005 F150 5.4l going from a 2004 F150 three valve 4.6l which I loved! I'm not wild about the 5.4 but gonna give it a try and hopefully it'll do me good!
Great video Brian. As always VERY thorough and informative. Please show the fix if it comes back into the shop. I’ve seen a couple of GM DI nonturbos with carbon issues. Never actually seen an ecoboost carboned up first hand.
@@Rad_Triumph_765_RS No, our GM fleet engines are torn down too frequently to have carbon issues in 5.3s and 6.0s. I don't tear into the 4.8s or any of the car 4 cyl cars engines we run. They're not worth saving. The simple old 4.3 v6s are the only modern GM engines we don't have to mess with. Fleet use finds the problems fast.
Hey so I installed a new ford engine into my 2018 Mustang ecoboost, and I think I’m getting ghost misfires 👻. I’ve checked coil packs, spark plugs ect. Only happening on cyl 2/3 . The codes I get are p0316,p0300,p0302 and p0303. Seems to be only on start up. I’m praying once I get this procedure done, it will fix my issue 🙏. Thanks for this video, as it’s definitely helpful 👍
Great vid. I have a 2015 also. You did a video about six years ago on catch cans for ecoboost motors. I run radiums on both sides. My valves are like new. Im sure that if you look at the valves they have all kinds of build up. Walnut blasting will fix it. Most people that have performance di cars do it. VW, BMW, etc. all the same problem. Misfire due to carbon build up. All that carbon doesnt allow the right amount of air flow for proper combustion and the ecus are very sensitive. Great vid as always!!!
Never too long! I have a 2013 Fusion SE 1.6L ecoboost 22k on the clock (wife's car), change oil every 2k and it stinks like nothing I've ever smelled in my 25+ years twisting wrenches! I'd love to see the carbon clean video!
I love your videos and I love that you’re man enough to say you put an engine in and then found out after you did it the problem it’s happened to me a few times and people have been really harsh to me about it and I found out afterwards they did it I didn’t need a whole engine only needed this or that so keep doing your videos trust you a lot because you don’t hide your mistakes keep doing you
I've said it once and I'll say it again your videos are top notch and I learn something new every time you post. Thanks for what you do man it's awesome!
Are there any known examples of 300,000 miles on one of these EcoBoost engines? I wish Ford still made the straight 6, 300 CID motor. It was a workhorse good for .5MM miles easy. Today they take these small displacement engines and run them very high RPM and I just can't see them lasting 200k or 300k miles. Reminds me of when we went to the Bic lighter - use it and destroy it. Love your work brother. Keep up the good work.
With original equipment? Likely no. The Turbo's are only rated for about 150K miles, and MANY don't make it to 100K...ask me how I know...yea..$3K total repair bill, turbo's weren't bad (price wise, about $700 each which isn't bad considering Ford used to pay $3500 EACH for them a few years ago), but the manifold is shot on one bank and has to be replaced as well. I know people with 500K miles on Ecoboost engines, but they've changed out the Turbo's.
@@icyhotmike you’re high. An LS motor is silly simple. An ecoboost engine is anything but simple, with vvti on both intake and exhaust, the water pump is behind the timing cover, plus you’re adding 1000F heaters right next to the motor.
You should test drive a ecoboost sometime. They don't have to Rev high. They all make their max output power before 3,000 RPM's! We have a 1.6 ecoboost in the fire escape. Full torque at just over 2000 rpm. It rarely revs to 6k. And I have 3 5 V6 ecoboost in my F-150. At 70MPH it stays in overdrive on the big mountain grades at just 2,000 rpm. You can't do that with a non turbo V8. Not in a Chevy, dodge etc. My ecoboost in the truck shifts well before 6000 rpm. It pulls hard at just 3000.
YES FINALLY!! This is the video I have been waiting for. Thank you for posting. This will get me going in the right direction. And all this data is available in Forscan?
I'm a GM dealer tech and I see several misfire cases every week. Mostly it's cold start carbon issues and I'm still trying to come up with a way to prove that it's the carbon. I'm still running intake manifold pressure tests and seeing if a carbon issue actually changes the flow in the manifold compared to other cylinders, or cylinders that aren't misfiring.
Fantastic video. That scan tool is great. I have a 2013 Ford Escape with the 2.0L EcoBoost at 280,000 Km and it's still runs great. I have heard of the carbon build up on the valves, but was not aware of the trouble that can cause. I hope you get to part 2.
Possible vacuum line leak issue? Added small hose clamps to my 3.5L SHO intake and that fixed the cold start hesitation issue that plagued me for 25k miles.
When the 1.6s came out I experienced this at the dealership. Had a car with a misfire on start but could never get it to misfire after warm. After looking at Freeze frame data it only did it on initial startup. I finally talked the customer into leaving it. I pressure tested the cooling system with the engine cold, pulled the plug and scoped the cylinder. Sure enough a head gasket leak could be observed as a tiny droplet formed and started running down the cylinder wall coming from in between the head and deck. Tore it down and ford ended up sending a long block.
I just changed my plugs and now I have a fault cylinder d code. I've been having codes 420 and 430 for both cats, this is on the 3.5 eco, It did it on a really cold start. I also used gdi crc cleaner bf I changed the plugs
Thank you so much for this thorough guide to troubleshooting misfire. I have a 2.0EB which is throwing cylinder 3 misfire that I'm trying to track down. I've downloaded Forscan and purchased ELM adapter but my Forscan program looks quite a bit different than yours. And I don't see anywhere to monitor cylinders like you've shown in this version of the app. Anyone else experience the same? Do you have to purchase extended license of Forscan to get access to cylinder monitoring?
I'll be watching this as well. I have 91K on mine. Mine starts good when it's cold and rich. Most of the misfires start right after the initial rich idle starts to lean out and the idle just starts to waver on coming down. Kinda bounces a little before the final drop off and true idle. Then maybe a few misfires after a warm idle is reached but then cleans up after operating temp is reached. Just like this engine is doing but not quite this bad of a miss...yet.
My mom's got a 2014 Ford Fusion SE 1.5 L EcoBoost there is a recall out on the Ford 1.6 4 coolant leak through the passageway through the cylinder and Gasket in Block through the jacket but not for the 1.5 sadly
Need help- 2018 expedition max. When driving highway speed and then press gas pedal and turbo activated temperature on coolant shows a number - (232-235) and it as soon as I let go of gas number disappears on coolant gauge. Non towing . It has not overheated and when I drive around town at regular speeds no problems at all. Thanks! No check engine light either
Have a 2017 escape. Wife happened to mention one day that when she first started it ran kinda rough then smoothed out pretty quick. Next thing, she told me little wisps of white smoke came out of tailpipes at startup. Hmmm, checked antifreeze and it was low, reservoir was almost empty. Topped it off, checked oil. All was good. Oil was clean. Then check engine light popped on few days later. Scanned and pull error P0302. Changed the #2 plug and cleared codes. No more light. Is it time to sell? Car has less than 25k miles.
Plug gap is a big factor when it comes to the ST and RS. 0.026-0.028 is usually the best gap to run since the gap expands over time. Purge Valve also is another culprit to look at replacing since these are known to seize up over time.
my SCT X4 has a relearn crank feature on it. maybe that can help my issue. only getting misfires in the primary cylinder. pressure tested and leak tested the cylinders, cleaned out the intake manifold and valves already, replaced the coil packs and spark plugs. still getting misfires on the first cylinder with a P0351 code only.
23:00 Okay so they're supposed to sound like that? What causes that rattling sound and is there a way to tell if it starts to sound like it shouldn't. I have a 2.0L EcoBoost in my 17 Escape and I didn't think much of it when I bought the car but it really does sound like something's off.
Every time you do an Escape video or EB 2.0 video I feel like I’m driving a ticking time bomb. 121k miles on my EB 2.0 AWD Escape. So far purge valve and AC clutch have been the extend of repairs needed. I’m hoping to get 200k out of it.
I'm actually relieved you have that many miles on yours. I have a '15 Fusion 2.0 AWD and I plan on keeping it as long as I can and I keep reading about coolant in the cylinders but I guess that's mainly the 1.5 EB. I'm currently at 45k miles.
@@johnp.5134 We had our 2.0 ecoboost replaced on our 2017 fusion due to coolant intrusion. It was at about 30k mi, covered under warranty. Just keep an eye on coolant level. I happened to notice ours was often low and just happened to run across the TSB on this.
Hello, I have 2.3. Misfire on 1&4. New injectors, new plugs, new block. I’ve always had them. Any ideas? The codes usually get thrown on a certain part of my drive home from work. CEL flashes then goes away
Another awesome video. As a tech who spends a generous amount of time working on Ford engines, you have been a encyclopedia of information over the years. And I believe we have come full circle. I recommended you to my coworkers & you are the first place they go for Ford info now. And a week or so ago, I had a good friend who works for Ford(Manufacturer not dealer) recommend you to me. It's been a great ride & I'm in for the long haul. Thanks Brian!👍👍
I'm just coming across this as I've got a really annoying and aggravating situation with my 2015 Lincoln MKC with the 2.3L Turbo Ecoboost engine. I bought the car two years ago, never had a problem with it and then out of the blue about 95,500 miles this mysterious misfire started to appear. I've replaced the COP's and unfortunately I've replaced the plugs a couple times as there have been plug issues beyond my control and apparently either bad batches (manufacturer error) or someone dropped/threw them (new from parts store). Once past that, I've pulled the misfire cylinder plugs and examined them and I've had a couple in the last 2-3k miles that had what seemed to be extreme carbon build up, but looked like overheating issues even though the vehicle has never overheated. I've done all the usual stuff like making sure there's no coolant in the engine oil or anywhere it should not be and the car is well taken care of. There's also no fluids on the outside of the motor that wouldn't be 'normal'. I just can't get thru this every 2000 to 3000 miles misfire issue. If I replace the plug for that cylinder even if it looks fine, the misfire stops. It was leading me to believe it may be a carbon problem. Now that I know what tools I need to have in my tool set to check this out and what to look for, I'll be doing that as soon as I can and just maybe get back to normal operation. I love the car, but I hate these issues. I also ran into the over torqued issue when I pulled the first set of plugs, someone tightened them way way too far (I was always told about 1/4 turn past finger tight was more than enough and I've never had blow by problems from that method). So I'll be getting the FORScan software and the OBD adapters for that and see if there is an actual issue or if it's carbon like I believe it to be. It's just 'too expensive' to just replace this and that until it stops on these newer engines because everything is so expensive to replace once you get past some plugs and COP's. It sure isn't like your grandma's old 70s/80s grand prix or caddy where you could get a part for like 30 bucks. Glad I came across this channel when I did. Hope to see some future 4-cyl Ecoboost stuff from the 2.0/2.3L Turbo lines in the '14-'19 range.
How do you do a relearn on a 2021 F-150 V6 Powerboost (hybrid) when the engine keeps shutting off to switch to battery power? I can't idle it for any length of time.
Why does carbon buildup loe on these vehicle o ly act up when cold. Is it because of airflow when cold? How does the carbon buildup act or react when cold? What changes when the vehicle warms up that caused the misfire to go away?
How often or not have you seen an internal coolant failure on a 2.3L Ford Explorer (this would be a 2017 MY). I thought they’re supposed to be pretty good? I’m trying to get to the bottom of P0303. I am going to pressure test the cooling system with plugs removed and check for coolant with borescope down into cylinder holes.
Thanks for a view into diagnostic tools you use. It's impressive what you can learn by using the engine sensors. That's quite interesting about carbon on the intake valves. I'd enjoy seeing you making the repair.
Ethanol is just a fancy word for alcohol, it leans out the mixture and therefore causes a misfire when cold in my ST. I've confirmed it several times. The engine needs to be warm before it goes away. The only time I'll put ethanol in the tank is when I'm on the highway all the time. To solve the issue I fill up with ethanol free fuel at a co-op.
I had a explorer sport eb with p0171,174. Lt 23 percent both banks, under all conditions. Passed every test on the ids, including injector flow. Passed every ppt. Replaced all 6 injectors, fuel trims were perfect. Can't trust injector flow test.
So my 2018 Mustang Ecoboost is in the shop and they have found the same issue with the slits in between each cylinder. My warranty ran out 3 weeks ago. It is costing me $2400 to have the gasket changed which I am being told will eventually fail again.
WIFI Endoscope-
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Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
What would cause a load up affect when driving if i floor it from a stop the truck has power but at higher speeds 20+ my 2013 3.5 f150 is a dog it literally happened overnight. Idle sometimes is erratic and it tripped a p0016 twice.
I really need help on how to change a 2014 ford taurus alternator! Can't seem to figure out how to get it out. 3.5l duratec
@fordtechmakuloco does the forscan work on Lincoln vehicles??
motorcraft spark plugs are junk. Spark plugs are the issue not carbon.
Thanks for the video, great job! I like the bore scope. I bought a cheaper one off Amazon and gave it away, couldn't see anything. I bought a 300 dollar snapon and it's just a tick better. I'll give this a go.
You know you have a good channel, and are a great teacher/instructor when I don’t have a car or engine that has anything to do with this topic.....yet I watched all 30 minutes.
You, sir, have a gift !
I hope there will be a part-2 video.
yes!
@@FordTechMakuloco yes, definitely looking for a part 2.
Absolutely.
As an ST owner with 65k on the car I’m looking forward to the 2nd part of this!
Can't wait for part 2 🙂
Man, I love watching a master at work.
Brian's the best!
As a 2013 Focus ST owner with 87k miles I would definitely love to see you clean those valves lol ty
When I bought my Fiesta ST, the first thing I did was install a catch can on it. It’s been 30k miles, no issues yet. I clean it when doing oil change, it’s always got junk in it.
Yup same here. Just picked up a used 2016 with 47k on the clock and gonna get the BG intake service done and then get a catch can kit bought to not worry about it afterwards. Did you get just the PCV kit or one with both CCV and PCV?
@@braedonfroid8164 I have the mishimoto pcv kit. I haven’t had any problems in almost 2 years of ownership.
@@pwrbyford68 okay awesome, that's the kit I've had my eye on as well and I wasn't too sure if a dual kit was really all that necessary. Thanks 🤙
I wouldnt do the bg induction service as there is a high likelihood it will reduce the long term catalytic converter efficiency. It's not a official ford motor company recomended service. It is a dealer retail service department upsale.
I took a shot every time you said good to go and now I'm hammered off my ass
😂😂😂
Mike Litorus,
Every time I heard him say "Good to go" I was imagining someone else out there taking a shot. Thank you for being the designated drinker and sparing me the hangover.
I just want to say, I’ve been watching your videos for several years now (5+) off an on and you give me know impression as to being anything other than a outstanding first rate ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ auto mechanic. We’d all be lucky to have you work on our vehicles. Enjoyed this one and so many others. This video in particular isn’t relevant to anything I’ve got going on but you have helped me in the past. Your instruction is top notch!👍 Thank you, and keep it up!!
Speaking of trucks, I just picked up a 2018 F150 with the 3.5L ecoboost!
After following your videos on the 5.4L and changing out the Timing Chains, Phasers. Oil pump etc. it has been a ride.
Now I get to learn all about the 3.5!!! Thanks Brian!
Video to long? That's like saying the job was done to well ! Thank you again for another automotive repair/diagnostic masterpiece
THIS is what I like about you! As I've mentioned a few times here, I'm a Retired Ford Tech and Driveability Specialist. Back in the 80's, we had to DIAGNOSE Problems! Pinout Checks, Breakout Boxes, and often lots of disassembly and inspection - before we actually got to the root cause.
(MUCH harder on EEC III and IV Vehicles!!!)😖
From what I've seen of Techs today - most of them operate by pure Procedure... Scan, work through the Manual (maybe), even something as archaic as pulling Coil Pack Plugs - to try to find misfires!
If they do find anything - "Could not replicate customer concern" on the Ticket - and off to the Writer!!! 😠 I've seen it from Friend's experiences.
WE WEREN'T ALLOWED to do that!
You actually WORK the problem, like we used to do. I really appreciate that integrity still exists!
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
I'm probably around your age but I worked on mostly GM I thought the GMs were a little easier to diagnose back in the 80s OBD1 because all you had to do was count the CK engine light flashes to get you started on some kind of path Ford seemed a lot less mechanic friendly and we won't even talk about dodge ,chrysler
@@johnmitchell2741 with the introduction of EEC-IV, we finally had SES light counting for quick codes too....
Before that - OBD was a JOKE!! Even involving things like "slamming the Driver's Door with the Vehicle in Drive", or "jumping the underhood plug, then rapidly turning the Steering Wheel, then flash the Headlights"!!! Not kidding!
I will always admit, early GM OBD Systems were MUCH easier to work with.
And you're right, we'll leave Chrysler out of this - especially "Lean Burn".
I just gutted a EEC-2 and variable Venturi carb off a 80 grand Marquis coupe 351w. Hated it, so much garbage for EGR and smog. I'm in the motor City and we don't do emissions here so she's now a 400hp unleashed beast. Off loading all that crap I have the car down to 3350lbs and ultimate sleeper status. 408 stroker with a 150 shot next. Upgraded rear, trailing arms, 2002 brakes and spindles. It was fun to build and only happens because the eec 2 and variable Venturi carb had to go. At 42k miles it was rough running to say the least.
sir, your ford scanner is a blessing on top of your qualifications. Nobody have such data and equipment at their disposal. keep up the good work and the best of luck. all the aftermarket scanners are limited and time-consuming. thank you for your effort.
You have to admit, the task functions the scanner does saves time and aggravation, assuming they're accurate. Great info! Look forward to the conclusion video.Thanks.
Until
You learn the Ford scan tool....
Must be updated via internet every single Monday.
Or it will. Not. Work. Period.
Clear and easy to follow explanations.
I am thinking to buy 2012 Ford Fiesta with only 147K with blown transmission, price is under 1K$ as my car project. Your videos are so helpful. Thanks Brian.
Buy cheapest Mazda 2( Fiestas twin that has none of its faults) it will be cheaper than your project, put it apart and back for fun/ learning not cause you have to, drive it like you stole it, 2 was built for that not to be service dept cash cow like Fail-esta
@@MegaNinjaMonkeyZord Thanks for an advice!
Fail-ESTA))) Haha!
In the UK we wouldn’t be using the word ‘only’ with 147k. For a fiesta that’s worn out! (And I like my Fords). With Ford’s 1L Ecoboost, 147k would be pretty much unheard of!
@@davyarthurs Hahha, I have never heard about it) Might be in Canada we have better Fiesta...
Great video showing classic logical diagnostic sequencing of an issue especially when there are no codes set. It is amazing how the best mechanics that produce videos on TH-cam all have very similar steps they follow that, one by one, eliminates potential causes of the issue until there is only one left.
Funny how this consistency in diagnostic techniques is so similar. I don't think it is a coincidence!
All new mechanics should watch you, Eric O. and scanner Danner at the very least to lay a good foundation of being a vehicle diagnostician rather than a parts changer with a powerful parts cannon. Good job!!
well said. had a good chuckle "powerful parts cannon" guys are gonna hate you :D
Thanks for the information. I was thinking the same thing but boss man wasn't convinced until I showed him this video. Thanks brother
Hey, I have watched all of your videos and I can't remember any where you talked about a "carbon issue". You kept saying "carbon issue" and I kept thinking "what is he talking about?" It took until the very end of the video for me to realize that you meant carbon buildup on the intake valves.
And, you seemed very confident, but the problem was on 2 and 4 but you said the PCV enters at 2 and 3. So, really looking forward to the next video to understand what the real problem was.
The diagnostics were great. But I didn't see a real solution at the end. Love your channel, keep it going.
educational video for us non truck Ford ecoboost owners. I hope you’ll upload more often videos of troubleshooting small ecoboost Fords and usage of IDS diagnostics system . This kind of information is rare on yt
Thanks
I truly enjoy all of your videos. I recently just started working at my local ford dealership. Your videos have helped me immensely
Got a Focus ST. Watched the whole video 👍🏻I cleaned the valves by soaking them with CRC valve cleaner, scrubbing them vigorously with a small circular nylon brush, than vacuumed out the gunk. Repeated the process many times until the valves were much cleaner. Couldn’t get them to factory new by the massive carbon buildup was gone. Than I installed a mishimoto catch can.
One of my coworkers had this same issue with his ST. His was even setting a code for misfires within so many revolutions after start. His solution was a good intake valve cleaning, PCV catch can, and adding a Meth injection kit. He runs hard enough to activate the meth and hasn't had any issues in 4 years.
All off these pure DI engine's are a carbon time bomb you can see why the better OEM's are going to a dual injection set up, great content as ever 👍.
Something that helps with that is a catch can. I have one on my eco boost and it is an engine saving device. You would not believe all the oil, water and unburnt fuel I get out at every fill up.
You mean just like how Ford's I3 Dragon engine uses direct injection for high load circumstances and port injection for everything else?
I've never been as nervous about a vehicle as when I found out my Subaru has direct injection after buying it. I've got just shy of 18k miles on it currently and plan to do induction services every 30K but I don't expect that it's going to be trouble free. I'm not going to do a catch can or any kind of modification because it's under warranty and I bought the 10 year/150K mile extended warranty and don't want to invalidate that by modifying any of the original systems.
@@williamGSXR110 my Toyota Corolla has both.
Meh i have 345,000km on my GDI non turbo. I think its more a problem on turbo charged GDI engines.
you are really someone who knows his job very well and how to explain in a simple way to those who do not know. i have the same problem on a 1.6 ecoboost, at idle you hear from the exhaust exactly the same noises you show in the video, but why if I turn on the climate the noises disappear? I hope you will find the time to answer me. thank you for your availability.
Great troubleshooting discipline.
My 2013 Escape with the 2.0 liter Ecoboost engine was missing badly from 2000 to 4000 rpm. No error codes. The engine has been dealer serviced every 5000 miles and now has 120,000 miles. I put in new Iridium plugs at 100,000 miles. Lately, I have been driving short trips only and the engine sputters when accelerating. I decided to replace the spark coils. The engine runs 90% better. I used Motorcraft coils, because I hear that some other brands may cause radio interference. They are easy to replace in an hour. The cost of about $220 seems worth it, and Rock Auto got them to me in 3 days. I'm still getting some burble noise from the exhaust system near the cats or turbo. My mileage has improved too. So it seems true that the "coil on plug" coils do get weak after 100,000 miles.
Damn. your channel got huge! Congrats!
Thanks!
Man the fun I could have with a scan tool like that even if I know exactly what the issue was I'd be running thru all the test just for fun like you thanks.
Good video. Too many times we make the assumption we know what the issue is then test to proves ourselves correct. A methodical standard test procedure is the right way to go to be sure.
That compression test is cool as hell I've never seen that before
Aussie 2014 Ford Falcon with the 4L inline six running on LPG (EcoLpi). Same issue and mine turned out to be a bad intake gasket. Decreasing the spark plug gap from 1.1mm to 0.9mm also helped getting rid of cold engine missfire. I use Forscan to check for missfire.
Heard that before. After you do the hard diagnostics, the customer says, “I don’t have time today, but, I’ll bring it back”, never to be seen again.
They take it to their tech and have then do the repair
That is so true but in this case he brought it back for repairs.
Hopefully that video is coming out soon!
I’ve seen that many times and most of the time the vehicle returns on a tow truck after getting our diagnosis take it to there tech comes back job not done right and can I please get a discount
BRIAN, AWESOME no way it is too long video it is a pleasure and enjoyable to learn from you always good information u share thankyou and cheeeers.
That's a mean sounding 4 cyl - great video - looking forward to the cleaning
Great video, Brian. I have two cars with the 2.3L Ecoboost and have decided to put catch cans on both of them. Hopefully, this will prevent the carbon buildup on the valves. Looking forward to see part two; cleaning the valves. Interested to see how you do that job.
Same here but a 2013 150 fx4 Its been installed now for over a year.. Love IT!!
I'm not sure if it prevents it but rather slows it down. my 2cents anyways
You are a legend. The most comprehensive and detailed analysis of any YT video of this issue. I had exactly the same problem in my 2015 Mustang EcoBoost which I use very rarely . I thought it was a cracked head gasket but I think carbon build up is the culprit.
Gm Brian always enjoy watching your videos blessed love friend...
Fantastic video can't wait to see the 2nd part. I had one of those cars in England for 4 years never missed a beat, fantastic to drive too. I really regret letting it go... I have a fiesta st mk8 now, good car but not as good as the focus.
I'd like to see this carbon issue..I was leaning on a crack in the intake or a bad seal on the mating surfaces of the intake. Seen this alot on the vortec v6 with those plastic intakes...sucks
plastics, good MPG
That scenario, a vacuum leak,, could have been ruled out if fuel trims were very positive at idle and corrected at high idle.
Vortec v8 same problem plus the head gets pitted.
Thank you for sharing your diagnostic. Good information.
Pretty good man. I like the way you approach the concern 👍
Very surprised that none of the other shops recommended an intake valve cleaning service
The dealer or any shop do the intake service on a Ecoboost. If a chunk of carbon breaks off it can damage the turbo. Some get lucky others don’t. Depends on how dirty it is, manual cleaning is recommended on the.
Thats why you should be very concerned when you take your car to be repaired even the dealerships have under trained Technicians ,its a cutthroat business you typically get very little $ to diagnoses a customer complaint especially if you don't have a trouble code for reference most technicians only make minimal flat rate when they are actually doing the repair it's a hard way to make a living that's why I got out of working at dealerships and small shops and started working on heavy equipment for a large municipality with and a decent hourly wage.Retired now at 60 with a neck and lower back fusion to show for it.And even though I'm a hurting unit NOBODY TOUCHES MY CAR BUT ME
@@johnmitchell2741 very true and funny that you say that. I'm a auto technician at my local municipality as well. Way better work environment, wages and pension . I'll never go back to dealer or private shops either !
@@EverydayJ1786 Your lucky your one of the few that figured it out
Thanks for another solid video. I subscribed to your channel for the F-150 stuff...but I certainly love to see videos on other Ford vehicles, as well! Please feel free to cover them all! Cheers!
It is amazing how much is computer controlled. Reason why I bought an extended warranty on my F150
Been trying to chase down a misfire on my Fiesta ST. This video was great, thank you!
How do you know its misfiring? Is there a code set?
@@f150lightningboy sometimes you can just feel it.
I love trucks! Just got a 2005 F150 5.4l going from a 2004 F150 three valve 4.6l which I loved! I'm not wild about the 5.4 but gonna give it a try and hopefully it'll do me good!
Definitely you are the Ford guru! 💯💪
Great video Brian. As always VERY thorough and informative.
Please show the fix if it comes back into the shop. I’ve seen a couple of GM DI nonturbos with carbon issues. Never actually seen an ecoboost carboned up first hand.
I’d bet the GM vehicles don’t have nearly the carbon issues as the ecoboosts do.
I’d venture to say it’s likely worse. They sticky gummie gunk in there was pretty bad.
@@Rad_Triumph_765_RS
No, our GM fleet engines are torn down too frequently to have carbon issues in 5.3s and 6.0s. I don't tear into the 4.8s or any of the car 4 cyl cars engines we run. They're not worth saving. The simple old 4.3 v6s are the only modern GM engines we don't have to mess with. Fleet use finds the problems fast.
Hey so I installed a new ford engine into my 2018 Mustang ecoboost, and I think I’m getting ghost misfires 👻. I’ve checked coil packs, spark plugs ect. Only happening on cyl 2/3 . The codes I get are p0316,p0300,p0302 and p0303. Seems to be only on start up. I’m praying once I get this procedure done, it will fix my issue 🙏. Thanks for this video, as it’s definitely helpful 👍
Great vid. I have a 2015 also. You did a video about six years ago on catch cans for ecoboost motors. I run radiums on both sides. My valves are like new. Im sure that if you look at the valves they have all kinds of build up. Walnut blasting will fix it. Most people that have performance di cars do it. VW, BMW, etc. all the same problem. Misfire due to carbon build up. All that carbon doesnt allow the right amount of air flow for proper combustion and the ecus are very sensitive. Great vid as always!!!
Never too long! I have a 2013 Fusion SE 1.6L ecoboost 22k on the clock (wife's car), change oil every 2k and it stinks like nothing I've ever smelled in my 25+ years twisting wrenches! I'd love to see the carbon clean video!
I love your videos and I love that you’re man enough to say you put an engine in and then found out after you did it the problem it’s happened to me a few times and people have been really harsh to me about it and I found out afterwards they did it I didn’t need a whole engine only needed this or that so keep doing your videos trust you a lot because you don’t hide your mistakes keep doing you
I've said it once and I'll say it again your videos are top notch and I learn something new every time you post. Thanks for what you do man it's awesome!
What you working on a Focus again.... nice!
AutoZone would of told the customer he needs a new O2 sensor. lol Excellent info and diagnosis Brian.
Are there any known examples of 300,000 miles on one of these EcoBoost engines?
I wish Ford still made the straight 6, 300 CID motor.
It was a workhorse good for .5MM miles easy.
Today they take these small displacement engines and run them very high RPM and I just can't see them lasting 200k or 300k miles.
Reminds me of when we went to the Bic lighter - use it and destroy it.
Love your work brother.
Keep up the good work.
With original equipment? Likely no. The Turbo's are only rated for about 150K miles, and MANY don't make it to 100K...ask me how I know...yea..$3K total repair bill, turbo's weren't bad (price wise, about $700 each which isn't bad considering Ford used to pay $3500 EACH for them a few years ago), but the manifold is shot on one bank and has to be replaced as well. I know people with 500K miles on Ecoboost engines, but they've changed out the Turbo's.
You should never buy a turbo car if you are not mechanically inclined. Ecoboost will last longer than any GM rocker panels ever have..
@@icyhotmike you’re high. An LS motor is silly simple. An ecoboost engine is anything but simple, with vvti on both intake and exhaust, the water pump is behind the timing cover, plus you’re adding 1000F heaters right next to the motor.
@@icyhotmike I have a 351W that has only ever had a water pump touched on the motor and it has over 360k miles.
You should test drive a ecoboost sometime.
They don't have to Rev high.
They all make their max output power before 3,000 RPM's!
We have a 1.6 ecoboost in the fire escape. Full torque at just over 2000 rpm. It rarely revs to 6k.
And I have 3 5 V6 ecoboost in my F-150.
At 70MPH it stays in overdrive on the big mountain grades at just 2,000 rpm.
You can't do that with a non turbo V8. Not in a Chevy, dodge etc.
My ecoboost in the truck shifts well before 6000 rpm. It pulls hard at just 3000.
YES FINALLY!! This is the video I have been waiting for. Thank you for posting. This will get me going in the right direction. And all this data is available in Forscan?
Thanks for the info. Definitely hope to see how the intakes are cleaned
I'm a GM dealer tech and I see several misfire cases every week. Mostly it's cold start carbon issues and I'm still trying to come up with a way to prove that it's the carbon. I'm still running intake manifold pressure tests and seeing if a carbon issue actually changes the flow in the manifold compared to other cylinders, or cylinders that aren't misfiring.
Fantastic video. That scan tool is great. I have a 2013 Ford Escape with the 2.0L EcoBoost at 280,000 Km and it's still runs great. I have heard of the carbon build up on the valves, but was not aware of the trouble that can cause. I hope you get to part 2.
Thats why a catch can is so important to have on these D.I engines
Possible vacuum line leak issue? Added small hose clamps to my 3.5L SHO intake and that fixed the cold start hesitation issue that plagued me for 25k miles.
When the 1.6s came out I experienced this at the dealership. Had a car with a misfire on start but could never get it to misfire after warm. After looking at Freeze frame data it only did it on initial startup. I finally talked the customer into leaving it. I pressure tested the cooling system with the engine cold, pulled the plug and scoped the cylinder. Sure enough a head gasket leak could be observed as a tiny droplet formed and started running down the cylinder wall coming from in between the head and deck. Tore it down and ford ended up sending a long block.
Excellent video... very glad you showed us this
Great video and your step by step approach is very helpful. Thanks.
The live data is impressive 👍
I just changed my plugs and now I have a fault cylinder d code. I've been having codes 420 and 430 for both cats, this is on the 3.5 eco, It did it on a really cold start. I also used gdi crc cleaner bf I changed the plugs
Thank you so much for this thorough guide to troubleshooting misfire. I have a 2.0EB which is throwing cylinder 3 misfire that I'm trying to track down. I've downloaded Forscan and purchased ELM adapter but my Forscan program looks quite a bit different than yours. And I don't see anywhere to monitor cylinders like you've shown in this version of the app. Anyone else experience the same? Do you have to purchase extended license of Forscan to get access to cylinder monitoring?
I'll be watching this as well. I have 91K on mine. Mine starts good when it's cold and rich. Most of the misfires start right after the initial rich idle starts to lean out and the idle just starts to waver on coming down. Kinda bounces a little before the final drop off and true idle. Then maybe a few misfires after a warm idle is reached but then cleans up after operating temp is reached. Just like this engine is doing but not quite this bad of a miss...yet.
My mom's got a 2014 Ford Fusion SE 1.5 L EcoBoost there is a recall out on the Ford 1.6 4 coolant leak through the passageway through the cylinder and Gasket in Block through the jacket but not for the 1.5 sadly
Loved it keep up the good work
Need help- 2018 expedition max. When driving highway speed and then press gas pedal and turbo activated temperature on coolant shows a number - (232-235) and it as soon as I let go of gas number disappears on coolant gauge. Non towing . It has not overheated and when I drive around town at regular speeds no problems at all. Thanks! No check engine light either
This is absolutely awesome video.......
Thanks 👍...
We're waiting for part 2 of this video
Have a 2017 escape. Wife happened to mention one day that when she first started it ran kinda rough then smoothed out pretty quick. Next thing, she told me little wisps of white smoke came out of tailpipes at startup. Hmmm, checked antifreeze and it was low, reservoir was almost empty. Topped it off, checked oil. All was good. Oil was clean. Then check engine light popped on few days later. Scanned and pull error P0302. Changed the #2 plug and cleared codes. No more light. Is it time to sell? Car has less than 25k miles.
Plug gap is a big factor when it comes to the ST and RS. 0.026-0.028 is usually the best gap to run since the gap expands over time. Purge Valve also is another culprit to look at replacing since these are known to seize up over time.
Changing oil frequently helps too. Less junk in the pcv to bake on the valves.
my SCT X4 has a relearn crank feature on it. maybe that can help my issue. only getting misfires in the primary cylinder. pressure tested and leak tested the cylinders, cleaned out the intake manifold and valves already, replaced the coil packs and spark plugs. still getting misfires on the first cylinder with a P0351 code only.
23:00 Okay so they're supposed to sound like that? What causes that rattling sound and is there a way to tell if it starts to sound like it shouldn't. I have a 2.0L EcoBoost in my 17 Escape and I didn't think much of it when I bought the car but it really does sound like something's off.
At the 6 minute mark i’ll guess injectors are carboned up, or the intake valves are?
Every time you do an Escape video or EB 2.0 video I feel like I’m driving a ticking time bomb. 121k miles on my EB 2.0 AWD Escape. So far purge valve and AC clutch have been the extend of repairs needed. I’m hoping to get 200k out of it.
I'm actually relieved you have that many miles on yours. I have a '15 Fusion 2.0 AWD and I plan on keeping it as long as I can and I keep reading about coolant in the cylinders but I guess that's mainly the 1.5 EB. I'm currently at 45k miles.
Carbon cleaning is really the worst case and that's not at all the end of the world. The 2.0s are pretty good engines I wouldn't worry.
I am on my 4th 2.0.All have been great.Transmission..eh,you know.But 2.0 Ecos are pretty darn bulletproof.Good luck.
@@johnp.5134 a family member has a 2014 1.5 Fusion closing in on 150k miles. Nothing done to it so far.
@@johnp.5134 We had our 2.0 ecoboost replaced on our 2017 fusion due to coolant intrusion. It was at about 30k mi, covered under warranty. Just keep an eye on coolant level. I happened to notice ours was often low and just happened to run across the TSB on this.
Good information! Excellent video!!
Nice to see you do a Ford focus ST which is my daily. Hope he brings it back and you’re able to do a video on the carbon cleaning.
Hello, I have 2.3. Misfire on 1&4. New injectors, new plugs, new block. I’ve always had them. Any ideas? The codes usually get thrown on a certain part of my drive home from work. CEL flashes then goes away
Will be waiting very anxiously for the second part. 😬😬😬
Please post a follow up. I have this exact problem in my ST, only i have 20k miles on it
Great video. These carbon issues scare me. It’s like just a matter of time until it’s going to happen.
Unless you’ve got a Toyota with a combination Port/GDI system.
Awesome stuff! Thanks for taking the time to drop some free knowledge! Much appreciated 🙏
Another awesome video. As a tech who spends a generous amount of time working on Ford engines, you have been a encyclopedia of information over the years. And I believe we have come full circle. I recommended you to my coworkers & you are the first place they go for Ford info now. And a week or so ago, I had a good friend who works for Ford(Manufacturer not dealer) recommend you to me. It's been a great ride & I'm in for the long haul. Thanks Brian!👍👍
I'm just coming across this as I've got a really annoying and aggravating situation with my 2015 Lincoln MKC with the 2.3L Turbo Ecoboost engine. I bought the car two years ago, never had a problem with it and then out of the blue about 95,500 miles this mysterious misfire started to appear. I've replaced the COP's and unfortunately I've replaced the plugs a couple times as there have been plug issues beyond my control and apparently either bad batches (manufacturer error) or someone dropped/threw them (new from parts store). Once past that, I've pulled the misfire cylinder plugs and examined them and I've had a couple in the last 2-3k miles that had what seemed to be extreme carbon build up, but looked like overheating issues even though the vehicle has never overheated. I've done all the usual stuff like making sure there's no coolant in the engine oil or anywhere it should not be and the car is well taken care of. There's also no fluids on the outside of the motor that wouldn't be 'normal'.
I just can't get thru this every 2000 to 3000 miles misfire issue. If I replace the plug for that cylinder even if it looks fine, the misfire stops. It was leading me to believe it may be a carbon problem. Now that I know what tools I need to have in my tool set to check this out and what to look for, I'll be doing that as soon as I can and just maybe get back to normal operation. I love the car, but I hate these issues. I also ran into the over torqued issue when I pulled the first set of plugs, someone tightened them way way too far (I was always told about 1/4 turn past finger tight was more than enough and I've never had blow by problems from that method).
So I'll be getting the FORScan software and the OBD adapters for that and see if there is an actual issue or if it's carbon like I believe it to be. It's just 'too expensive' to just replace this and that until it stops on these newer engines because everything is so expensive to replace once you get past some plugs and COP's. It sure isn't like your grandma's old 70s/80s grand prix or caddy where you could get a part for like 30 bucks.
Glad I came across this channel when I did. Hope to see some future 4-cyl Ecoboost stuff from the 2.0/2.3L Turbo lines in the '14-'19 range.
How do you do a relearn on a 2021 F-150 V6 Powerboost (hybrid) when the engine keeps shutting off to switch to battery power? I can't idle it for any length of time.
Why does carbon buildup loe on these vehicle o ly act up when cold. Is it because of airflow when cold? How does the carbon buildup act or react when cold? What changes when the vehicle warms up that caused the misfire to go away?
was there ever a part 2 to this video showing the cleaning?
yes multiple videos of different methods.
How often or not have you seen an internal coolant failure on a 2.3L Ford Explorer (this would be a 2017 MY). I thought they’re supposed to be pretty good? I’m trying to get to the bottom of P0303. I am going to pressure test the cooling system with plugs removed and check for coolant with borescope down into cylinder holes.
Thanks for a view into diagnostic tools you use. It's impressive what you can learn by using the engine sensors. That's quite interesting about carbon on the intake valves. I'd enjoy seeing you making the repair.
Ethanol is just a fancy word for alcohol, it leans out the mixture and therefore causes a misfire when cold in my ST. I've confirmed it several times. The engine needs to be warm before it goes away. The only time I'll put ethanol in the tank is when I'm on the highway all the time. To solve the issue I fill up with ethanol free fuel at a co-op.
Do you think it would be a good idea to put a catch can on a Ford Focus, In line of the PCV hose?
I had a explorer sport eb with p0171,174. Lt 23 percent both banks, under all conditions. Passed every test on the ids, including injector flow. Passed every ppt. Replaced all 6 injectors, fuel trims were perfect. Can't trust injector flow test.
So my 2018 Mustang Ecoboost is in the shop and they have found the same issue with the slits in between each cylinder. My warranty ran out 3 weeks ago. It is costing me $2400 to have the gasket changed which I am being told will eventually fail again.
Great video straight to the point no playing around trying to get views i love it
My son might have the same trouble 2.0t 2017 escape. Ford say new motor but no fluid mixing. Hes 1000 mi away and tdy in q4. Need to see part two
It was not too long. Very informative.