Flush Setting or Gypsy Setting Tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.พ. 2018
- This is a step by step demonstration on how I Gypsy Set, or Flush Set a small round 2mm Lab Created Ruby into a Sterling Silver Earring. This is a short portion of a more comprehensive Tutorial Series at JewelryMonk.com/gypsy
Your white board demo was particularly helpful.
Thanks, I thought it might help.
Really appreciate such a clear and concise video! I’ve watched a few on this subject and yours is the best by far. Thankyou!
Thank you Heather.
Thank you very much for making these videos. Your explanations are clear and simple and most of all, you are interesting to listen to. I've watched many tutorials and sadly, the knowledge was hard to absorb because the speaker was boring. Thanks for doing such a great job!
Nancy, thank you so much for the kind words.
Great video! You make it look so easy. I love the drawing to show what each bur is doing with their particular shapes, Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome Amanda.
Thank you so much, i have been searching for this many times, but every videos not giving us this informations, thank you 🙏🏻
Husam You are welcome.
Thanks a lot Doug. The model of the bur and the drawings are better than in a lot of manuals I've seen.
Thanks Erik, That is what I was hoping for. Trying to make it a little simpler.
Doug Napier: The pase, tempo and the explanations why and how are excellent. Lookin forward to more of these vids. Hope I ll be able to make my own contribution. Ps I use the same handpiece B-)
Doug, thank you for yet another generous tutorial! 😎
Marion, you are so welcome. It is my pleasure.
Doug the quality and content of this video is excellent. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you so much Dee
Doug... you make it look so easy :-)... Excellent tut!..A confidence builder!
Thanks Fletcher, as a jewelry teacher, I am constantly looking for new ways to get my point across and make the content a little easier to understand.
Thank you thank you thank you for the drawings! Now I understand!!
Mama D Does Dinner ....That is what I like to hear!
Really good video and good instructor! Thank you 😊
Thank you.
You make it look so easy thank you!
Excellent Video Doug!
Thanks Craig!
Coming from you that means a lot.
Your diagrams are awesome, thanks for sharing! :)
You are welcome.
That was a really helpful tutorial, thanks for posting!
Daniel, you’re welcome.
Lovely! It gives me confidence to try!
Great to hear. You can do it.
Enjoy the process.
Doug
This is exactly what I’ve needed!
Laurie, give it a try and let me know how it worked for ya.
The drawing was very informative, thank you.
Linda, you are welcome.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome.
Great video, thank you 🙏
You are welcome!
Goodevening. I see your tutorial for the first time. It was exactly what I was looking for. Never seen it more easy than how you explain everything. What a pleasure to see and hear. Thank you so much.
I will try to make my first setting like this. I am not a professionel and never did these settings yet.
I suppose you live somewhere in the US?
When I work with small pieces I glue them to a popsicle stick makes easier to work on
Great idea!
hi, many thanks for tips ;)
You are welcome.
Nice and simple , many other channels are not showing the complete process and asking for subscribers, your channel is good , love from India ,
What is the metal thickness gauge .
NA International The thickness is about 1.3mm
I have been trying to get these consistent for years, and I have never been able to get them consistent enough to actually use them in my work. I think my problem is that my setting or hart bur is slightly smaller than my stone. What do I do about that? Where do you purchase you burrs/what brand are they? I always feel like I have to push down really hard on the metal. When I finally get one that will stay, it’s usually crooked. Also, my burnisher may be a problem, but I just made a new one and I think it’s better.
Excellent video and quality!! Yes, the white board demo was very helpful. Thank you for posting :) Could you use tiny cabochons?
I have never done it, but you could give it a try.
Thanks for the reply! If I try it I'll let you know how it comes out. :)
Hi Doug, love this video but I am wondering how you can avoid the hart bur from cutting the top lip by accident as the bur is going down? Since we want the top opening to be slightly smaller than the stone so that there is a bit of tension and lip up the top. I hope this makes sense. Thank you!
As long as the hole is the same size as the stone, or even slightly larger, the stone will slip down "snug" and the metal will "mush" or form over the stone to hold it in.
Hi Doug, just to confirm my understanding of your recommended hand pressures, you apply just enough downward force to keep the rounded tip always in contact with the crown of the stone, and the rest of your focus is on applying circular outward pressure to cause the ~60 degree side angles of the burnisher to "mushroom" the sharp edge of the surrounding metal, correct?
Chris, Exactly.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thanks for the quick confirmation.
Hello Doug. Amazing video and very helpful. Can you suggest a way where I can mass produce small brass pieces with empty holes perfect for diamond setting? I do not want every single piece to be hand drilled as it will be expensive in my country. Can it be done via brass casting or metal die cutting? One of our die manufacturer has said it can done but the backside of the metal won't remain plain but slight dent will be formed due to impact. Any suggestion on this will appreciated. Thank You once again :)
John, you should be able to have a pilot hole made in the pieces, so there is less work to do to each setting.
A stone setting wizard
You're too kind.
PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong: it seems problematic to have used a bud bur as that profile gives a round bowl for the stone. If you use a setting bur (or a hart bur) next, unless you go much deeper you will have the problem of the stone not staying flat in the setting, rocking when you try to set the sides by pushing metal, which is a pain in the butt when setting (oops, the stone isn't flat and the metal is pushed over - junk it, start again...)......Wait, wait... You "checked it" by doing what? Don't you have to check it by pushing on the stone (culet) from the back [of the stone through the drilled hole] to see if the setting process pushing and swirling around has been enough to make the setting strong enough to sell to a customer? Is it really strong? What do you think of this? Thanks for teaching us!
you made it look so easy! i'm a jewelry student and i'm having a hard time doing this :(
What seems to be the problem?
i'm having a trouble making a perfectly straight hole and resulting in the stones are not setting properly (the stones went off easily) i think i need to practice more. sorry for my bad grammar.@@DougNapierJewelryMonk
Irvin, get good tools (burs and bits) and take your time.
thank youuu! @@DougNapierJewelryMonk
Thank you for your video! may I ask what vice your using and how its connected to the bench peg? looks very useful
you are welcome. The name of the bench apparatus is called a GRS Bench Pin.
This is the best video I've seen on Gipsy settings! Thank you so much. Am I supposed to test the setting by trying to push it out? because I feel like they always seem perfect but they fall out when I test them. Maybe I'm pushing too hard or I shouldn't be pushing at all.
Irene, yes, test by trying to push it out. If you can push it out, it needs more tightening.
Great tutorial! Thank you very much! Is this only possible with small stones? I heard someone say it doesn't work with a stone over 3mm.
I have done with stones larger than 3mm
Great video, thank you. What are you using to install your burnisher? I like this better than those round wood handle tools. And where can I get one?
Thanks, it is called a pin vise, and they work well for holding different sized burs and bits.
Thank you for a very good tutorial. What would be the maximum size of a gemstone if it is set into an 8mm wide ring and is for example a 4mm (round topaz) gemstone too big if the ring is 2.1mm thick. And how much space should be left on the edge of the ring for burnishing (space between edge of the ring and stone)?
Jyri, you could set a 4mm stone in a 8mm wide band, you could probably get by with a 6-7mm wide band. the issue would be how far the stone sticks out the bottom. You want to make sure the stone doesn't stick through the bottom.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Hi, thanks for the quick reply. I'm thinking the same thing, but so far I have no idea what the depth of a gem of this size is, whether it is possible to set it same flush with the surface of the ring.
Are you teaching this in a course? Your approach is great. :)
Doug, I will be teaching stone setting in house at my training center, and also creating a stone setting video series in the near future.
hey there! thanks so much for this tutorial, just a question could i use a round burr instead of a bud burr?
you could, yes, especially for diamonds, but on color stones sometimes they have a thicker bottom and you have to be careful.
Hi there, thanks for your tutorial. My stone 3mm keeps spinning when I burnish. I've followed all the steps I learnt but somehow it keeps spinning. Cheers Jeanette
Keep practicing, maybe your seat is cut too deep, or too large, or the metal is just not burnished enough over the stone.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk will do thanks Doug
curious i get some of the stone setting, some of the casting /molding of the rings but what i don't get yet is how the stones . gems, diamonds ,rubies ,...etc are made in the shapes and sizes yet. Are they just manual dug up / found in different shapes /sizes or is there any processing of them that a jeweler does before setting them on the ring or object he wants to set them on.
sam111880 for most stones there is a stone cutter that does the cutting, shaping, faceting, etc. The jeweler usually orders the stone in a specific size and shape, and sets it.
Great video! just wondering, why did you use a heart bur instead of a setting bur? which is the difference? Thanks :)
Maria, great question. I use them both almost interchangeable at times. On this piece, since the majority of the cutting was done with a bud bur, I finished it with the hart bur so I have a better view of the depth I am cutting while it is working. Both work though. Thanks for the question.
thanks a lot for your answer! @@DougNapierJewelryMonk
Hi Doug - I've tried flush setting in the past with varying results. I've made my own burnisher from an old bit as well, but mine is a bit smaller at the tip. Do you know roughly the size of the tip you've made? Is there a rough threshold for ""too big or "too small"? I'm assuming it depends on stone size as well? Cheers.
Emily, here is a new video I made to help. th-cam.com/video/Vo6R2gXDd90/w-d-xo.html
Fabulous!
I'm a tad confused on the burnishing part. I've watched a bunch of flush set vids saying to hold the burnisher at an angle and some practically parallel to the piece. You seem to be at a 90 degree angle...how does it work to push the metal over the stone? What's stopping it from just polishing the walls of the hole and notngripping the stone? I CAN'T wrap my head around this part AT ALL! Please help!
Here is another video that hopefully explains it a little more: th-cam.com/video/Vo6R2gXDd90/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! "Its as easy as that" haha
Does anyone know what gauge silver is being used
collie man approximately 13 gauge.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk so I can go as thick as I want as long as the drill hole is all the way thru
collie man yes. Actually the hole just needs to be deeper than the bottom of the stone.
I just ordered all my tools to try this..my first project is a oval bracelet with (7) 6mm stones...I ordered 16g soft silver...going its thick enough for the stones and not to thick where I can still shape the bracelet
collie man shape the bracelet first.
what is the metal pen looking thing that you put the polished burr for burnishing into called?
Hi. It is called a pin vise.
Hi! How does it go over the stone if only pressing down. Does it depend on the size of burnisher? It must. I’ve seen people pushing towards stone. And then skid! So hard. I just tried my first time with a technique of someone who makes the hole a slight bit smaller, then puts the stone in an angle, and taps it in with a copper rod. I had brass. Must be harder than copper. Cuz stone broke. Or maybe this stone I got off eBay wasn’t a cz. But I find this really hard. I’ve seen others who say notch it with heart but on only one side, so it’ll then click in. When I’ve tried this way you’re doing, in the past, the metal didn’t move, but the stone did. Help?
I don't necessarily press "down" but more press into the bezel, and force the bezel over the stone. Be careful not to "skid" out of the bezel area. I make sure I cut the stone hole the same size as the stone, so there is no play. (practice at this) You can get away with "tapping" the stone into a tight setting..... but more times than not the stone will break, even diamonds because the pressure is on the weakest and most vulnerable part of the stone. If you are feeling lucky and want to tap the stone into place, use a toothpick trimmed flat. You can notch the hole, but that just makes for a sloppy fitting stone and harder to get tight. Hope this helps. Doug
I did it! Somehow it worked! Thank you!
huskyfluffy Awesome! I knew you could.
Do you use a lot of pressure when doing the circular burnishing part?
Depending on the metal. Silver, not a lot. Gold and white gold, a little more pressure.
When you do this type of setting does the hole need to be drilled all the way through? I’d like to try it in a thicker setting without doing so. Thx.
Paulie, it does not have to be drilled all the way through.
Doug Napier thank you!
One more question - how deep do I need to drill the hole if I’m not going all the way through? Thx
Measure the thickness of the stone, and drill a little deeper than the thickness of the stone, just for clearance.
Doug Napier thank you!
Thanks for a great video! What was the gauge of the metal you used?
Dazzledust22 this was approximately 13 gauge.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thank you x
Is in necessary to drill the pilot hole straight through.
Beer Vijitkajee it sure helps.
Aren't you afraid you're going to embrace the stone near the girdle or around the girdle?
Where do I order drill bit pieces? I have a Foredom but it did not come with any? I don’t want to order the wrong one help!!
try RioGrande.com
What’s the minimum thickness of the metal would be great for gypsy setting?
It really depends on the size stone you are setting. Thick enough so the bottom of the stone doesn’t protrude through.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thank you for responding...I want to add 1.50-1.75 stone on a 2.2mm metal. Would that be enough?
@@sweetrytch Should be.
Can a pear shape or marquise cut be gypsy set?
Yes, but it takes more time and attention.
Where can I get your flush setting tool?
I make my own. Here is how: th-cam.com/video/Vo6R2gXDd90/w-d-xo.html
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thank you for replying but I was asking about the burnished holder
@@juanchavez9634 the burnished holder is called a “Pin Vise”. You can get them just about anywhere tools are sold.
@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thank you 👍🏻
Might be nice work - but not very easy to see what you are doing most of the time.
Phil (from philongold)
Sorry, might have to try a different camera angle.