To answer your question as to what would happen if you don't make air vents, it wouldn't fill the mold. Since air and metal can't exist in the same space and the air has no way to escape the metal kind of sits on top of the air and doesn't flow into the part that you actually want formed
Love this simple casting Video. I think it will make people want to try it because it’s not easy but if you just put a little time and you can make some nice castings. I had purchased some wax rings already formed for casting, but I’ve never use them because I wasn’t quite sure how I should do it. Thank you so much God bless and have a happy holiday
Great tutorial-thanks I’ve always had issues with rings not fully casting-your huge sprue channel is what I will do next time. If you add a flex shaft to your Dremel, it will make it so much easier for fine control.
you can prepare the crucible where you melt the silver with borax salt to clean the impurities, and you can also make the alloy with 5% copper so that your jewelry does not become too soft and has greater durability over the years, the silver pure damage, easy, a good league can help you, this was translated by Google, I don't know if you'll be able to understand hahahah
Thanks, that makes sense! I actually did add some Borax but didn’t manage to capture that in the video. I was fumbling a lot between takes haha. I will try adding copper, I was wondering why I was getting scratches and dings so easily. 🙏
@@landcraftworks Weight. Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. Keep in mind that silver and copper can both absorb a fair amount of oxygen when molten so the copper will oxidize and cause some fire scale but it's quite limited with small castings. A glazed melting dish helps ( borax ) plus some borax sprinkled on top helps. With sterling silver the melting point is about 70 degrees C lower so it's a bit easier to cast as well. I've cast a few d6 for friends in sterling. I generally buy silver rounds 1 Oz coins ( .9999 Ag ) and melt those, add the pre-weighed copper and re-melt and mix the alloy ( swirl ) then cast it. Worked sofar. pre-made casting grain is too expensive for what it delivers for small scale delft clay work IMHO.
Obrigado pelas palavras gentis! Estou tão surpreso que o TH-cam tenha sido capaz de traduzir minhas palavras murmurando, mas estou feliz que sim. Mais vídeos por vir. Algo em particular que você queira me ver fazer a seguir?
Hey! Im trying to cast using the same torch (ts4000) and map pro gas like you. Im trying to melt some grain i bought which is a copper alloy that claims to have a melting point of 1,715 F, which is similar to silver, but after 15 minutes of constant heat with the torch i could barely get the metal to melt at all. Im using a similar ceramic crucible and only have about an once in there. Am i doing something wrong? Should i try aluminum instead since that has a much lower melting point? Thanks!
Nice ring! Can you explain what "conversion" you used, to calculate how much silver you needed? I didn't grasp it in the video too well! Also, what kind of compound did you use to polish it? Thanks.
Hey sorry for the late reply. I saw it in someone else's video. You can find a calculator like this one www.unitedpmr.com/calculators/casting-weight-calculator/ and find out how much silver you would need to make up the same volume as wax. Then double it so that there's enough to fill up the sprue and so that it doesn't cool down too much on its way down.
Thankyou for your tutorial! Im going to try this one day! Can you please tell me where you get the cylinder and nozzle from? Is it butane gas? I live in Aussie...i like the idea of that small cylinder. Im silversmithing just using small butane torches.
Hey! You’re very welcome. :) I’m using this: www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/welding-and-soldering-tools/welding-accessories/2197408 I just picked it up at my local hardware store here in California. MAP gas is I think one of the hotter burning gasses that comes in a can. You should be able to get it in a hardware store in AUS. Make sure the torch you get is made for MAP gas as I understand some that are made for butane or propane can’t stand up to the heat!
A very small amount of metal does escape into the air holes but doesn't make it very far. It contributes to the "flashing" you have to clean up on the outside. I would say it has something to do with surface tension why it doesn't all shoot out. I've had a poorly cut mould with a small sprue hole eject a lot of metal down the air vents before, so its probably just a matter of making sure there isn't too much pressure in the mould.
Get at it! Super fun. Btw I messed up like 10+ mounds and had to start over before I made anything right, and I still mess up a lot, so push through that initial learning stage and keep at it!
Hey! I’m pretty new to this and am not really sure but I did not pickle it. I think that is mostly necessary after soldering which I did not do here. I just buffed it out with some polishing compound to get to a mirror finish. However since this video I made a blackening solution using baking soda and sulfur, then polished to flat surfaces! If gave it a pretty cool look! I’ll make a video on that soon I think.I’ll try and remember to let you know when I learn about pickling :)
Hi, thanks so much for this video and answering my question :). My only other question would be how do you get rid of the extra metal from the sprue after sawing it? I only have a flex shaft, would I just file it down with sticks or is there something I could put on my flex shaft? @@landcraftworks
This is Petrobond sand but i've since switched to Delft Clay! if you're willing to pay double for the initial investment in the sand I would recommend Delft clay... will save you a lot of time and heartache
That was Petrobond sand but I since have switched to Delft Clay and I really recommend it! Worth the price difference because it lasts so long and makes your life so much easier
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To answer your question as to what would happen if you don't make air vents, it wouldn't fill the mold. Since air and metal can't exist in the same space and the air has no way to escape the metal kind of sits on top of the air and doesn't flow into the part that you actually want formed
Thank you so much.
Love this simple casting Video. I think it will make people want to try it because it’s not easy but if you just put a little time and you can make some nice castings. I had purchased some wax rings already formed for casting, but I’ve never use them because I wasn’t quite sure how I should do it. Thank you so much God bless and have a happy holiday
You are an extremely good teacher! Thank you so much to cover all my doubt about the process. Nice ring!
Awesome piece. This was the most chill video I’ve ever watched. Think I got a contact high just from the music
Great tutorial-thanks I’ve always had issues with rings not fully casting-your huge sprue channel is what I will do next time. If you add a flex shaft to your Dremel, it will make it so much easier for fine control.
nice tutorial and the ring turned out cool
I really appreciate it! Still learning both silver casting and video making so thanks for the encouragement
Thank you so much for the great tutorial! I can't wait to try it. :)
AWESOME ! perfect tutorial !
Awesome!!! I find that laying the small crucible on top of a brick helps heat it faster with mapp or propane.
Vermiculite/perlite works as well. Its basically stone popcorn.
What app/website did you use to measure the amount of silver you need?
Nice tutorial 👍
you can prepare the crucible where you melt the silver with borax salt to clean the impurities, and you can also make the alloy with 5% copper so that your jewelry does not become too soft and has greater durability over the years, the silver pure damage, easy, a good league can help you, this was translated by Google, I don't know if you'll be able to understand hahahah
Thanks, that makes sense! I actually did add some Borax but didn’t manage to capture that in the video. I was fumbling a lot between takes haha. I will try adding copper, I was wondering why I was getting scratches and dings so easily. 🙏
Sorry I have a question about this, do you add 5% copper as measured by weight or volume?
@@landcraftworks Weight.
Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper.
Keep in mind that silver and copper can both absorb a fair amount of oxygen when molten so the copper will oxidize and cause some fire scale but it's quite limited with small castings. A glazed melting dish helps ( borax ) plus some borax sprinkled on top helps.
With sterling silver the melting point is about 70 degrees C lower so it's a bit easier to cast as well.
I've cast a few d6 for friends in sterling. I generally buy silver rounds 1 Oz coins ( .9999 Ag ) and melt those, add the pre-weighed copper and re-melt and mix the alloy ( swirl ) then cast it. Worked sofar.
pre-made casting grain is too expensive for what it delivers for small scale delft clay work IMHO.
Muito bom! poste mais gostei do video e a legenda automatica esta perfeita consegui entender tudo mesmo sendo brasileiro e não sabendo ingles!
Obrigado pelas palavras gentis! Estou tão surpreso que o TH-cam tenha sido capaz de traduzir minhas palavras murmurando, mas estou feliz que sim. Mais vídeos por vir. Algo em particular que você queira me ver fazer a seguir?
Clean cast 👍🏼
Nice, thanks 💪🗜️
thanks so much!
Hey! Im trying to cast using the same torch (ts4000) and map pro gas like you. Im trying to melt some grain i bought which is a copper alloy that claims to have a melting point of 1,715 F, which is similar to silver, but after 15 minutes of constant heat with the torch i could barely get the metal to melt at all. Im using a similar ceramic crucible and only have about an once in there. Am i doing something wrong? Should i try aluminum instead since that has a much lower melting point? Thanks!
Nice ring! Can you explain what "conversion" you used, to calculate how much silver you needed? I didn't grasp it in the video too well! Also, what kind of compound did you use to polish it? Thanks.
Hey sorry for the late reply. I saw it in someone else's video. You can find a calculator like this one www.unitedpmr.com/calculators/casting-weight-calculator/ and find out how much silver you would need to make up the same volume as wax. Then double it so that there's enough to fill up the sprue and so that it doesn't cool down too much on its way down.
Wow i like it! Thanks!
Thanks for watching :)
MAke more videos
Just posted a new vid! More to come :)
Thankyou for your tutorial! Im going to try this one day! Can you please tell me where you get the cylinder and nozzle from? Is it butane gas?
I live in Aussie...i like the idea of that small cylinder.
Im silversmithing just using small butane torches.
Hey! You’re very welcome. :)
I’m using this: www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/welding-and-soldering-tools/welding-accessories/2197408
I just picked it up at my local hardware store here in California. MAP gas is I think one of the hotter burning gasses that comes in a can. You should be able to get it in a hardware store in AUS. Make sure the torch you get is made for MAP gas as I understand some that are made for butane or propane can’t stand up to the heat!
How does the metal not escape into any of the airholes, if that's even a possibility?
A very small amount of metal does escape into the air holes but doesn't make it very far. It contributes to the "flashing" you have to clean up on the outside. I would say it has something to do with surface tension why it doesn't all shoot out. I've had a poorly cut mould with a small sprue hole eject a lot of metal down the air vents before, so its probably just a matter of making sure there isn't too much pressure in the mould.
Apakah ada penambahan water glas?
Hello, what wax do you use and where do you get it from
There are lots of different hardnesses and shapes of carving wax you can find at Rio Grande and PMC Supplies
This is so he can punch werewolfs.
Thankyou for this tutorial. I have all kit just havnt made anything yet.
Get at it! Super fun. Btw I messed up like 10+ mounds and had to start over before I made anything right, and I still mess up a lot, so push through that initial learning stage and keep at it!
I’m not gonna do it but you could cast a ring at the beach… right???
If you brought all your casting equipment to the beach, I see no reason why not.
Daaamn
🎉🎉
Hella chill
do you need to pickle after casting?
Hey! I’m pretty new to this and am not really sure but I did not pickle it. I think that is mostly necessary after soldering which I did not do here. I just buffed it out with some polishing compound to get to a mirror finish. However since this video I made a blackening solution using baking soda and sulfur, then polished to flat surfaces! If gave it a pretty cool look! I’ll make a video on that soon I think.I’ll try and remember to let you know when I learn about pickling :)
Hi, thanks so much for this video and answering my question :). My only other question would be how do you get rid of the extra metal from the sprue after sawing it? I only have a flex shaft, would I just file it down with sticks or is there something I could put on my flex shaft? @@landcraftworks
👍
🤝
What type sand is this bro?
This is Petrobond sand but i've since switched to Delft Clay! if you're willing to pay double for the initial investment in the sand I would recommend Delft clay... will save you a lot of time and heartache
Guapo
What sand is that?
That was Petrobond sand but I since have switched to Delft Clay and I really recommend it! Worth the price difference because it lasts so long and makes your life so much easier