The answer it depends on the use. For demos and shows lithium is the way to go because of its faster recharge rate. For daily driver 2-3 agm is sufficient for up to 10k watts assume you high output alternator of at least 300 amps. My car has two agm and super cap and with 9k rms my car still can auto start stop at lights. But deactivate that feature because I’m. Bassing out
I agree, everyones situation will vary. I ran a 2200w amp in my truck with 135amp alt and stock battery. It stayed 13.0 and up, swapped that same amp to my Honda with 80amp alt new underhood batt and AGm rear battery and it drops lower. It's a small alternator but interesting to me.
I recently got a Glowe Voltage S2 lithium (LifePo4) and have been happy with it. I am stuck with a stock altenator and even places like Mechman told me just to add batteries. Glow Voltage claims you can run up to a 12k on stock charging. Haven't tried that but my 8k does fine on a stock 150a alt, my underhood AGM and the Glowe Voltage in the back by the amps. Been really happy with it and pretty easy to toss in. No need for an isolator and it works fine with the AGM
I have a series 1. My system uses 2300 watts RMS, I will probably do a battery delete or capacitor in the front and series 1 in the back. I probably will upgrade my alternator as well. Havent installed everything as yet tho
Audio is also dynamic! Even if your pushing power, does not mean it’s drawing its max amperage. Running 2 12’s at 500 watt each, does not mean your drawing this on every note.
C rate is the rate the battery can discharge divided by its capacity (Discharge capability) / capacity = C Most agms are tested for slow discharges not max like lithium and the like AGMs usually have 1c at most 10a for 10hours is .1c Batteries are a tough subject to get into… Been watching ya keep it up ! Always something to learn in this hobby
that load with that alt and a good agm should be solid, but knowing that you WILL go bigger later, id grab a trunk thunder 5k and do a battery delete up front.
@@Thizz2979 you can make one, but if you want you can buy one also, but theyre costly, order somthing like this amzn.to/3BMs3P1 mount up front to connect youre car's power wires to the ones running to the back.
@@BrianWaller-qe7grhave you always ran it that way? I run mine opposite, both cap and battery bank in back with amp but it goes cap to battery to amp ? Would i see a benefit by putting cap straight off amp then bank ? The way i have it now seems to be working well but i always wondered about this ?
So I have an Autotech 320a alt and 3 68ah agms, is that enough to run my Cab 45 and a 400w 4 channel? I have plenty 00awg ofc as well the Cab 45 clamps at around 4800wrms.
I have my stock 132 amp alternator and I’m installing a new 2000 watt system. Is there a way I can keep the stock alternator and just add another battery to power this?
stock 170 amp alt ,big 3 0 gauge install ,smart 5k & MD1200 i have 1agm battery under the hood,would i need 2 more agms in the back or 1 should be fine
I would Personally use a battery from trunk thunder lithium, (use code CAE10 for a nice discount), back beside the amplifier. if you are set on using agms, then I would use 2 right beside the amplifier.
@xXxREDEEMEDxXx-yc9ne i have a 148ah lev60 lifepo 4 and i love it i run it with a ioxus 12v super cap it's powering 4 sav2 15s off a jp83 and a jp95t for mids and highs, i have a 320a js alternator and i run on stock charging voltage ⚡️ 14.2, but full tilt i don't go below 13.5 ish i originally had half that lev60 at 74ah and it did well also, but doubled up to 148, for reserve, also this is in Ohio weather, no issues charged it 2 years ago when i bought it put a balancer on it and haven't touched since 💪 for the price I'd say it's hard to beat, especially if you buy the cells and build it yourself it's even cheaper
I've been through battery after battery everything from XS power to jag35, battery hookup and my most recent purchase is miles ahead of anything I have had yet I have a 29AH SCIB bank from NORTHWEST LITHIUM and all I can say is it's a MONSTER FR FR the power delivery and recovery rate is by far second to NONE I can't believe I wasted all that money on bandaids temporary fixes that barely kept the voltage steady if anyone is looking for a one stop shop battery to power your system, LED, accessories, the car itself everything and keep the voltage up go SCIB you will never look back and the recharge rate is so fast you don't need multiple alternators to achieve the same results
its great that you found a solid battery, good deal man! just keep in mind a battery cannot create power, if youre pulling more than the alternator is making, you will eventually drop voltage.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts yeah I definitely don't want to do that I should be good though the battery is rated for 15k with a 240 amp alternator and I will only be running a deafbonce AAK 6k
C Rating does not mean " Constant" it means Capacity. So if you have a 100Ah Lithium battery is that is rated at 1C that means it can push out 100AMPS or 1 times its capacity, if its a 2C rating, it means it can push out 200 AMPS or 2 times its CAPACITY and so on.. Its a bit scary to know that people mess with this powerful cells and do not understand the fundamental workings of them. But I digress, Be careful everyone, Lithium batteries pack a big punch, AGM Batteries do not have a C rating, they are rated the same as a lead acid, in regards to CCA, they are improperly labeled by B companies to try to make people think they are high capacity batteries. For example in an AGM Battery that someone says is 100AH, you can only safely discharge 50% DOD so you really have 50AH. and its not a constant steady voltage either, like Lithium Cells. The Type of Lithium cells I am speaking about are Lifepo4. (Lithium Iron Phosphate). Do your own research on spec sheets, do not trust someone on you tube unless they are reputable in knowledge of such high powered cells.
Thanks! my intention was to get people talking about this, and it worked! I am still trying to wrap my head around the details of Lithium, but I DO have experience using them, my mistakes and all, including the fire that nearly burned my tahoe up and possibly could have burn down my home. I had researched for over a year, before getting into headway cells, and missed the tiny details that were important. no one talks about the dangers, so folks dont get that info. they just see cheap power storage. my objective is to make the dangers known, along side the advantages. if i failed at using the nomenclature so be it, people will comment and correct me, those who need to learn, will read and learn. those who DONT read the comments, will still have a healthy respect for Lithium cells.
Very good video. Im looking at either 2 options can i have your opinion? Im looking at getting one Down4sound LTO 6.0 lithium battery with charger or the xs power titan S5. Im just torn between the 2 because ill need the xs intelli charger if it needs changing. I have a 130ah alt and one run of 0 gauge ofc sky high wire. I have a Northstar sms 80 amg in the back. Im only planning on running 1000-2000rms but my voltage is dipping to 11.5v sometimes . I see people say these batteries are ok if you charge under 14v and i charge under 14v. What about a jy nxt-2kf? Would that help me better and be more cost effective?
personally id would run the NXT-2KF if your dips are quick, and if you are dropping voltage and its staying low, you're gonna need alternator upgrading, or a second one
@CarAudioEnthusiasts Thats what I was thinking. Do I need to be as cautious with cold with the cap? I still want to be able to run my system in the winter and here in Chicago gets very cold. I never had a problem with any agm but I just don't want to take any chances. I'd ratehr stick with a battery or option that has a less likelihood of catching fire due to condition fluctuations. I haven't been in car audio in like 8 years and I just want to ask the proper questions to catch up to speed. I appreciate your answer and honestly.
@@chicagorc3967 caps don't have issues in the cold, they don't have a chemical makeup. the chemicals in lithium batteries are what's affected be the extreme cold.
The answer it depends on the use. For demos and shows lithium is the way to go because of its faster recharge rate. For daily driver 2-3 agm is sufficient for up to 10k watts assume you high output alternator of at least 300 amps. My car has two agm and super cap and with 9k rms my car still can auto start stop at lights. But deactivate that feature because I’m. Bassing out
I agree, everyones situation will vary.
I ran a 2200w amp in my truck with 135amp alt and stock battery. It stayed 13.0 and up, swapped that same amp to my Honda with 80amp alt new underhood batt and AGm rear battery and it drops lower. It's a small alternator but interesting to me.
Thanks helpful I’m going 6k rms and 320 alt and didn’t wanna go crazy on the agm or alts
I recently got a Glowe Voltage S2 lithium (LifePo4) and have been happy with it. I am stuck with a stock altenator and even places like Mechman told me just to add batteries. Glow Voltage claims you can run up to a 12k on stock charging. Haven't tried that but my 8k does fine on a stock 150a alt, my underhood AGM and the Glowe Voltage in the back by the amps. Been really happy with it and pretty easy to toss in. No need for an isolator and it works fine with the AGM
I have a series 1. My system uses 2300 watts RMS, I will probably do a battery delete or capacitor in the front and series 1 in the back. I probably will upgrade my alternator as well. Havent installed everything as yet tho
Love your videos man!!! Great information for seasoned and newbies in car audio
thanks man!
Audio is also dynamic! Even if your pushing power, does not mean it’s drawing its max amperage. Running 2 12’s at 500 watt each, does not mean your drawing this on every note.
exactly, i usually figure half power
Outside of box rise, absolutely
@@TurboJohn74 I use A/B amps too on bass. Kind of a waste really, but we all know they are really only about 60% efficient, even good ones
C rate is the rate the battery can discharge divided by its capacity
(Discharge capability) / capacity = C
Most agms are tested for slow discharges not max like lithium and the like
AGMs usually have 1c at most
10a for 10hours is .1c
Batteries are a tough subject to get into…
Been watching ya keep it up !
Always something to learn in this hobby
Im doing my best to learn about c rating, its an odd subject, and thankyou for your corrections!
Im really liking the way you explained that. I think I need a capacitor or 2 for my lithium bank.
kewl glad to help
You’ve got a badass truck! Awesome build 💪🏼
Thanks 👍
@@CarAudioEnthusiastsvery helpful vid too. I have a better idea of why my setup is working well with my electrical upgrades
Great video. Keep up the good work.
thankls!
Good information! Hope you're doing well, brother!
Thanks! You too!
just got a 370 alt gonna run 3000 watts to one 15 at 1ohm what u suggest for battery setup or any other suggestions for electrical setup for this
that load with that alt and a good agm should be solid, but knowing that you WILL go bigger later, id grab a trunk thunder 5k and do a battery delete up front.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts any recommendations for battery delete never used one
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts one more thing 😂 on that 3000 set up you mean a one good agm battery or two i appreciate your knowledge
@@Thizz2979 you can make one, but if you want you can buy one also, but theyre costly, order somthing like this amzn.to/3BMs3P1 mount up front to connect youre car's power wires to the ones running to the back.
Did he say put the super cap between aux AGM and the amplifier? Does that require an isolator between aux AGM and supercap?
yes between the AGM and the amp, and no you dont need a battery isolator, ANYWHERE in your system
Yes supercaps like Maxwell or ioxus basically helps energize your battery faster. No isolators
I have my super cap after my batteries and my amps connected to the super cap
@BDauto86 love my ioxus 12v super cap i paid 150$ but i believe you can get one for 100 now
@@BrianWaller-qe7grhave you always ran it that way? I run mine opposite, both cap and battery bank in back with amp but it goes cap to battery to amp ? Would i see a benefit by putting cap straight off amp then bank ? The way i have it now seems to be working well but i always wondered about this ?
So I have an Autotech 320a alt and 3 68ah agms, is that enough to run my Cab 45 and a 400w 4 channel? I have plenty 00awg ofc as well the Cab 45 clamps at around 4800wrms.
maybe. but if your voltage drops quickly when you crank it, you need more storage.
I have my stock 132 amp alternator and I’m installing a new 2000 watt system. Is there a way I can keep the stock alternator and just add another battery to power this?
trunk thunder lithium lil banger 5k discount code CAE10
stock 170 amp alt ,big 3 0 gauge install ,smart 5k & MD1200 i have 1agm battery under the hood,would i need 2 more agms in the back or 1 should be fine
I would Personally use a battery from trunk thunder lithium, (use code CAE10 for a nice discount), back beside the amplifier. if you are set on using agms, then I would use 2 right beside the amplifier.
What are your thoughts on the lev60 148ah 12 volt on a stock car ?
Just curious
lol, as long as it starts the car, should be fine.
@xXxREDEEMEDxXx-yc9ne i have a 148ah lev60 lifepo 4 and i love it i run it with a ioxus 12v super cap it's powering 4 sav2 15s off a jp83 and a jp95t for mids and highs, i have a 320a js alternator and i run on stock charging voltage ⚡️ 14.2, but full tilt i don't go below 13.5 ish i originally had half that lev60 at 74ah and it did well also, but doubled up to 148, for reserve, also this is in Ohio weather, no issues charged it 2 years ago when i bought it put a balancer on it and haven't touched since 💪 for the price I'd say it's hard to beat, especially if you buy the cells and build it yourself it's even cheaper
Also i started off without the js alt, with a smart5k and the 4 sav2 15s and it did really well
I've been through battery after battery everything from XS power to jag35, battery hookup and my most recent purchase is miles ahead of anything I have had yet I have a 29AH SCIB bank from NORTHWEST LITHIUM and all I can say is it's a MONSTER FR FR the power delivery and recovery rate is by far second to NONE I can't believe I wasted all that money on bandaids temporary fixes that barely kept the voltage steady if anyone is looking for a one stop shop battery to power your system, LED, accessories, the car itself everything and keep the voltage up go SCIB you will never look back and the recharge rate is so fast you don't need multiple alternators to achieve the same results
its great that you found a solid battery, good deal man! just keep in mind a battery cannot create power, if youre pulling more than the alternator is making, you will eventually drop voltage.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts yeah I definitely don't want to do that I should be good though the battery is rated for 15k with a 240 amp alternator and I will only be running a deafbonce AAK 6k
C Rating does not mean " Constant" it means Capacity. So if you have a 100Ah Lithium battery is that is rated at 1C that means it can push out 100AMPS or 1 times its capacity, if its a 2C rating, it means it can push out 200 AMPS or 2 times its CAPACITY and so on.. Its a bit scary to know that people mess with this powerful cells and do not understand the fundamental workings of them. But I digress, Be careful everyone, Lithium batteries pack a big punch, AGM Batteries do not have a C rating, they are rated the same as a lead acid, in regards to CCA, they are improperly labeled by B companies to try to make people think they are high capacity batteries. For example in an AGM Battery that someone says is 100AH, you can only safely discharge 50% DOD so you really have 50AH. and its not a constant steady voltage either, like Lithium Cells. The Type of Lithium cells I am speaking about are Lifepo4. (Lithium Iron Phosphate). Do your own research on spec sheets, do not trust someone on you tube unless they are reputable in knowledge of such high powered cells.
Thanks! my intention was to get people talking about this, and it worked! I am still trying to wrap my head around the details of Lithium, but I DO have experience using them, my mistakes and all, including the fire that nearly burned my tahoe up and possibly could have burn down my home. I had researched for over a year, before getting into headway cells, and missed the tiny details that were important. no one talks about the dangers, so folks dont get that info. they just see cheap power storage. my objective is to make the dangers known, along side the advantages. if i failed at using the nomenclature so be it, people will comment and correct me, those who need to learn, will read and learn. those who DONT read the comments, will still have a healthy respect for Lithium cells.
i am removing the section where i gave a bad explaination of C so you may want to edit your comment
The battery heating up is not the cause of resistance, resistance is the cause of heating.
its a cycle, heat causes resistance, and resistance causes heat. it keeps snowballing
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts you got it backwards. resistance casues heat heat casues a cascading affect.
@@CotyRiddle resistance causes heat, AND heat causes resistance.
Very good video. Im looking at either 2 options can i have your opinion? Im looking at getting one Down4sound LTO 6.0 lithium battery with charger or the xs power titan S5. Im just torn between the 2 because ill need the xs intelli charger if it needs changing. I have a 130ah alt and one run of 0 gauge ofc sky high wire. I have a Northstar sms 80 amg in the back. Im only planning on running 1000-2000rms but my voltage is dipping to 11.5v sometimes . I see people say these batteries are ok if you charge under 14v and i charge under 14v. What about a jy nxt-2kf? Would that help me better and be more cost effective?
personally id would run the NXT-2KF if your dips are quick, and if you are dropping voltage and its staying low, you're gonna need alternator upgrading, or a second one
@CarAudioEnthusiasts Thats what I was thinking. Do I need to be as cautious with cold with the cap? I still want to be able to run my system in the winter and here in Chicago gets very cold. I never had a problem with any agm but I just don't want to take any chances. I'd ratehr stick with a battery or option that has a less likelihood of catching fire due to condition fluctuations. I haven't been in car audio in like 8 years and I just want to ask the proper questions to catch up to speed. I appreciate your answer and honestly.
Now since yesterday they are out of stock🤦♂️ my luck
@@chicagorc3967 caps don't have issues in the cold, they don't have a chemical makeup. the chemicals in lithium batteries are what's affected be the extreme cold.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts Thank you
So if I got a JS 320A alternator and I'm pulling 300a with my amps on a temp setup, would my Shuriken SK-BT45 be OK for now for daily driving?
maybe, i mean it should, but if you notice voltage dropping in spikes right when the bass hits, you will need a bit more storage
Intro Song name?
one of my tracks!
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts that's really sick! Love the old skool flow talking about systems! Lol where can I listen to the whole song?
@@vcente671 thanks! its only 30secs long though, thats the whole thing
but my soundcloud is in the description
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts cool thanks! Subbed to your channel too!👍🏾
No, you need the FLUX Capacitor TO power that 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Forklift battery