Idling a freshly rebuilt engine for a long time is a surefire way to make sure your rings don't seat and wear properly. Engine rings need load to really force the surfaces against the bore to get the surfaces to wear together properly.
I've driven it around the block 3- 4 times already. So it's had a little bit of actual drive time on it besides the 1 hour of idling. Once I get everything ironed out hopefully it does alot more driving and not so much just idling lol 👍😁
I have not read all the comments but this is what I would do - Use compressed air (25lbs) on the line going from the fuel tank to the front regulator. Then disconnect the line to the regulator and plug it. Check for pressure. Then reconnect line to regulator and plug return line at the regulator and run the same test. If its still bleeding down then while its under air pressure spray the regulator with soapy water and look for bubbles. I am thinking perhaps also try adjusting the top screw on the regulator all the way and then put air on the line back at the fuel pump. See if it still leaks.
@themechanic6117 only problem I face is to wait a second for fuel to prime when starting. Oem you can put in the car and start immediately. Under driving conditions everything works normal
Years ago I dated a girl who bought a new Cavalier and never changed the oil, not even once in the three years she had it. When I finally changed it, it was the glitteryest oil I've ever seen, it was sparkly like a Twilight vampire. She was a stripper and drove the car all over Canada and the US in those three years, it had about 400 thousand Kilometers on it.
I believe that it's normal so that it wouldn't stretch the fuel system. However you should definitely recheck the fuel pump assembly in real time possibly on a bucket and also replace the sock. It looks to extend a lot and it might be getting squeezed at the bottom of the tank.
If the sock were being restricted I would have lack of fuel pressure , which isn't the case .this fuel pump and new tank setup was already installed and running great with the stock engine in the crx with no issues.
I'm using the Khumo v730 . They only have a few miles on them so i can't say anything good or bad about them. The crx did feel like it was on rails though lol
I was just watching one of your older videos with your shift cables, and you said you intentionally left the fuel filter line slightly unhooked because you where planning on relocating it, did you relocate it? and if so did you reconnect it.
I wanted a aftermarket FPR so I can adjust the fuel pressure as needed. when the car is running it has no problems maintaining fuel pressure so that's good.
I think you are going to come to regret using that clamp on that hose that is not a high pressure clamp you need a fuel injection clamp at the least. Also if that's an aftermarket wallborough pump many of them do not have check bows in them. I use a wallborough 255 high pressure pump and it does not have a check valve in it
Just want you to see this. .most aftermarket walbo pumps dont have check valves. My 255lph high pressure one I run on my boosted car doesnt. Pressure bleeds away quick like what youre seeing. My pressure is perfect and has no problem pushing and holding up to 100psi and more under boost (because Im running 12psi on 260cc injectors. ..I HAVE to get pressure up that high sadly for now at least but have been running like this for years @@themechanic6117
Like the threads of the brass fitting? I thought about that also. I thought about putting some sort of thread sealant on that fitting but was worried about that getting into the fuel system.
I'm using the upgraded fuel pump harness that can with my JDI kit. I don't think it has anything to do with the amps because it can sistain fuel pressure while the pump is running . The problem is after the pump turns off.
I just bought a 2001 Acura TL. I'd really like you to be it's mechanic. I tried Facebook, and I didn't see any contact information, it could have been someone else. 😮 idk
Idling a freshly rebuilt engine for a long time is a surefire way to make sure your rings don't seat and wear properly. Engine rings need load to really force the surfaces against the bore to get the surfaces to wear together properly.
I've driven it around the block 3- 4 times already. So it's had a little bit of actual drive time on it besides the 1 hour of idling. Once I get everything ironed out hopefully it does alot more driving and not so much just idling lol 👍😁
I have not read all the comments but this is what I would do - Use compressed air (25lbs) on the line going from the fuel tank to the front regulator. Then disconnect the line to the regulator and plug it. Check for pressure. Then reconnect line to regulator and plug return line at the regulator and run the same test. If its still bleeding down then while its under air pressure spray the regulator with soapy water and look for bubbles.
I am thinking perhaps also try adjusting the top screw on the regulator all the way and then put air on the line back at the fuel pump. See if it still leaks.
My civic with this regulator does the same. Its no problem at all for my b18c6 Turbo
Good to know 😁👍
@themechanic6117 only problem I face is to wait a second for fuel to prime when starting. Oem you can put in the car and start immediately. Under driving conditions everything works normal
Years ago I dated a girl who bought a new Cavalier and never changed the oil, not even once in the three years she had it. When I finally changed it, it was the glitteryest oil I've ever seen, it was sparkly like a Twilight vampire.
She was a stripper and drove the car all over Canada and the US in those three years, it had about 400 thousand Kilometers on it.
I believe that it's normal so that it wouldn't stretch the fuel system. However you should definitely recheck the fuel pump assembly in real time possibly on a bucket and also replace the sock. It looks to extend a lot and it might be getting squeezed at the bottom of the tank.
If the sock were being restricted I would have lack of fuel pressure , which isn't the case .this fuel pump and new tank setup was already installed and running great with the stock engine in the crx with no issues.
What Kumho's are those? I have the PS31s on my rex currently. Love the grip but the side walls are a tad flimsy.
I'm using the Khumo v730 . They only have a few miles on them so i can't say anything good or bad about them. The crx did feel like it was on rails though lol
I was just watching one of your older videos with your shift cables, and you said you intentionally left the fuel filter line slightly unhooked because you where planning on relocating it, did you relocate it? and if so did you reconnect it.
yes , in a different video I showed how I relocated the fuel filter and it's definitely reconnected .
Been watching your videos for a few years now, great job on your crx. I used your engine videos as references for my own project.
good video can you not just use or mod a d series or b series fuel rail and use the Honda fuel pressure regulator
I wanted a aftermarket FPR so I can adjust the fuel pressure as needed. when the car is running it has no problems maintaining fuel pressure so that's good.
I just got 4 of those lines for my 88 sedan... they all rot out ! I sent a message to your instagram.
Thank you
I think you are going to come to regret using that clamp on that hose that is not a high pressure clamp you need a fuel injection clamp at the least. Also if that's an aftermarket wallborough pump many of them do not have check bows in them. I use a wallborough 255 high pressure pump and it does not have a check valve in it
I didn't even think about that. The hose is under alot of pressure. Yeah that clamp isn't the best option
Just want you to see this. .most aftermarket walbo pumps dont have check valves. My 255lph high pressure one I run on my boosted car doesnt. Pressure bleeds away quick like what youre seeing. My pressure is perfect and has no problem pushing and holding up to 100psi and more under boost (because Im running 12psi on 260cc injectors. ..I HAVE to get pressure up that high sadly for now at least but have been running like this for years @@themechanic6117
Is the pressure bleeding past the brass fitting inside the fuel pressure regulator that the ball bearing rests against?
Like the threads of the brass fitting? I thought about that also. I thought about putting some sort of thread sealant on that fitting but was worried about that getting into the fuel system.
Yea that's exactly what I was thinking. Maybe test the system with air. That way you can control the pressure without risk of damage
@@themechanic6117also you could use ptfe tape on the threads to confirm if that fixes it.
Yeah that brass fitting just screws in with no o ring or gasket. I could see 50psi of fuel getting past some threads
Run it as it is or pull out the TIG welder 😂
He got alot of ef and crx and some wagons i think....
who does ?
How many amps are you running into your fuel pump? If you upgraded pump but not the wiring it will not pull enough fuel to keep pressure.
I'm using the upgraded fuel pump harness that can with my JDI kit. I don't think it has anything to do with the amps because it can sistain fuel pressure while the pump is running . The problem is after the pump turns off.
Maybe its The Fuel Sensor is Faulty?
The mechanical fuel pressure gauge was showing the same thing so it's not a sensor issue. It's reading correctly.
@themechanic6117 Maybe The Gas Cap?
Gas cap or fuel tank pressure has nothing to do with fuel pressure. I appreciate the ideas 👍
Fuel pressure dropping after the pump is off isn’t a problem. If you have 43.5 psi when it’s on, who cares? Just wasting your time
apparently wasting time and money ,SMH
I just bought a 2001 Acura TL. I'd really like you to be it's mechanic. I tried Facebook, and I didn't see any contact information, it could have been someone else. 😮 idk
Where are you located?
@@themechanic6117 Chicago, south side. 1/4 mile from Chicago State University.
@themechanic6117 I use to date a girl from Valparaiso so I know the area good enough.