I was 16 years old when I did my first brake job on my 1983 AMC Concord and the first thing I did was start the car and immediately put it in reverse even with the choke and high idle on because the car was cold and I nearly backed into a tree. Lol I learned my lesson right away to pump up your brakes first.
Nice when you make good money from a popular video. I've seen a half dozen people on TH-cam recently show what they make on a video and not be afraid to show it.
I watch all your videos and I'm never too afraid to learn even though I've been WRENCHING almost 60 years. But it bothers me that you don't clean the hubs before fitting new rotors, I learned early on that if I didn't clean the hubs I got run out and warping within a thousand miles. Therefore I always clean the hubs facings before fitting new rotors and I don't have any problems as I hate having to do a job twice. Also again I used to only lightly tighten oil filters until I had a bad leak that if I hadn't noticed the engine could have lost all its oil, so I always give it a firm hand tighten.
Good morning brother Kenny. I love it when you say 'you don't have to go bananas'. Very smart to use a panel off of a bottle to use as a shield to guide the oil and keep things clean. No disrespect Kenny but where are your gloves (you said the oil is hot) ? How is Meg doing now? I always like emails from you or Meg. I look for comment replies but I sometimes miss them. Thank you for emphasizing to NOT drive the pistons back to quickly or with power tools...great advice! All that grease and brake dust is a mechanics nightmare. Requires a lot of Lava hand (and arm) soap for cleanup. Thank you again for multiple 'bananas' comment and the 'basting chicken' comment. You crack me up! Nice tip using the wrench behind the wheel lug nut. Video sound quality is great! You asked. It is sad that everything is made in China as you said. Please comment to subscribers about mixing both brands and weights of oil. Some just don't understand. At 16 I did a brake job on a VW Beetle and my boss failed to give me that comment about 'always pump the brake pedal before moving the car'. Fortunately, no damage done except my feelings.
Will say the only time I ever had a filter stick was with an engine that had been overhauled, spotlessly clean block and dry seal, it stuck there nicely, took a bit of work to peel it off from the block. A thin oil film on the seal or block does help, I tend to put one both sides of the seal as a matter of course.
I've had very good luck with both spraying protectant on the posts, and with greasing the posts. I'm talking about cases where there was real corrosion that was impacting the battery's performance. I clean the post and connection thoroughly, connect it back up, and then seal it. Oxidization requires oxygen. Perhaps we're talking about a different scenario, though. If acid is leeching through you have a faulty battery. The spray and grease prevent atmospheric oxygen from reacting with the metals.
You’ll probably need a battery soon. That one was made 1/21. For several years now, batteries seem to only last 3-4 years. My grand mother (back in the early 70’s) had an original battery on her ‘66 Nova last 7 years.
My 2005 Ram 5.7 has 212,000 on it still going strong and no oil usage or transmission problems.Only major thing was the rearend gears set changed out.I was told by the mechanic that fixed my brakes.To not use oem rotors,They will warp quickly after a few hard braking and not last.He installed Napa rotors and ceramic pads and havent had any issues since .Used Napa brand twice over the years and no issues period.Goes show you oem is not always better.He also changed the battery connectors ends to a heavy duty connectors.Love the channel and video content.
And yet again, I'm getting ready to do a repair on a family car, and you make a video about it. First it was the sway bar end links on a PT Cruiser, now it's breaks on a Ram 1500. Thanks for the information. Keep on wrenchin'.
I stopped traveling with those battery jump starters 3 years ago when I found out they make super capacitors that can take 3 volts, suck that up for a 12 volt start and get me to the shop. No battery that has to be replaced every few years and should last 3 lifetimes. I’ve used it twice. Takes about 2 minutes for the capacitor to suck up enough power to start my F150.
Good morning Mr Kenny, hope y'all have a great Monday. Perfect timing on those brakes 😅 that never happens to me. Tell Mrs Kenny I said hello and sir,(Keep Wrenching)😊
O ordered a Detroit Axle rebuilt rack and pinion. They literally painted over the accumulated oil and dirt in the crevices. It was horribly done. I returned it.
I have seen oil filters installed loose,this is from these quick oil change places.Come in with an oil leak complaint.I have seen comments people saying use a c clamp on the rear brake calipers with the screw pistons pushing them in with it.This is a way to do damage to the caliper.Brake clean,cannot get the good brake clean due to it cannot be sold in 8 states.The low voc crap has to be sold only
I always appreciate your videos and experience but you're wrong about protecting parts from corrosion. I've used very simple methods since I was a kid and they do work. An old mechanic, 45 years ago told me to put a drop of engine oil on the posts and it works. It doesn't work "forever" like all things you do to protect parts it needs to be refreshed but that's easy to do at each oil change. I get you don't agree but your example of corroding from inside isn't right. It still happens at the surface even though the fumes of acid come from inside the battery case. I agree with most of your "no additive" opinions but I'd suggest you look harder at this one. Do some good fair testing. Clean up a battery, then oil the post and put a little (LITTLE) on it at each oil change. What does it do long term? I think you'll like the results and it's both Cheap and Easy to do. Whatever you do, thanks for your videos.
I have been told that corrosion in the terminals is a possible sign of the alternator overcharging I do not know if that is correct as I have never had corrosion on any of my vehicles batteries.(or an overcharging alternator.)Cheers Kenny.
When you replace the rotors, could you comment on the quality of rotors. Like the high carbon are more expensive but supposedly more heat resistant the less like to warp (I think). KOKO!
On the battery corrosion, I saw a video where they put oil on the post and the oil coated the post and stopped the acid from migrating. Not sure if it works but if I had a battery doing that, I'd try it for kicks. I can't remember what oil they used on the post.
I have always done that on anything I could. Punch a hole in the filter can when the engine is hot, come back in a while and the filter will be empty, no mess when you spin it off.
there are two kids at my shop that wish I could fire I cannot tell you how many times I have had a veh come in for a oil change and they had it last and I needed a breaker bar to remove the drain bolt and filter
The old saying that a mechanic has the worst running car on the block does not apply here. It is true for the ones that hate their job, so they neglect their own car. Kenny, I appreciate all your little tips and tricks.
If battery post were labels on shocks you would make sure they're clean because labels are unprofessional but people that worry about corrosion are being silly?
Wheel bearing grease on the terminal inside before putting it on the battery. Yes, it'll conduct. No it won't corrode. th-cam.com/video/IebpgDklL8w/w-d-xo.html
I started watching your videos about a week ago and I have avoided bananas completely since.
I was 16 years old when I did my first brake job on my 1983 AMC Concord and the first thing I did was start the car and immediately put it in reverse even with the choke and high idle on because the car was cold and I nearly backed into a tree. Lol
I learned my lesson right away to pump up your brakes first.
Nice when you make good money from a popular video. I've seen a half dozen people on TH-cam recently show what they make on a video and not be afraid to show it.
A real mechanic, to busy to take care of their own vehicles.
Yeap, and Kenny's as real as they come. He's the best!
Where
Hey mate a tip for pushing pistons back. Crack open the bleed nipple. avoids all the issues that can occure with seals ABS ect.
I watch all your videos and I'm never too afraid to learn even though I've been WRENCHING almost 60 years. But it bothers me that you don't clean the hubs before fitting new rotors, I learned early on that if I didn't clean the hubs I got run out and warping within a thousand miles. Therefore I always clean the hubs facings before fitting new rotors and I don't have any problems as I hate having to do a job twice. Also again I used to only lightly tighten oil filters until I had a bad leak that if I hadn't noticed the engine could have lost all its oil, so I always give it a firm hand tighten.
Keep videos coming. Excellent detail as needed them onward! Get your Wife to find Sponsors, if she is into it. Otherwise other agents.
Good morning brother Kenny. I love it when you say 'you don't have to go bananas'. Very smart to use a panel off of a bottle to use as a shield to guide the oil and keep things clean. No disrespect Kenny but where are your gloves (you said the oil is hot) ? How is Meg doing now? I always like emails from you or Meg. I look for comment replies but I sometimes miss them. Thank you for emphasizing to NOT drive the pistons back to quickly or with power tools...great advice! All that grease and brake dust is a mechanics nightmare. Requires a lot of Lava hand (and arm) soap for cleanup. Thank you again for multiple 'bananas' comment and the 'basting chicken' comment. You crack me up! Nice tip using the wrench behind the wheel lug nut. Video sound quality is great! You asked. It is sad that everything is made in China as you said. Please comment to subscribers about mixing both brands and weights of oil. Some just don't understand. At 16 I did a brake job on a VW Beetle and my boss failed to give me that comment about 'always pump the brake pedal before moving the car'. Fortunately, no damage done except my feelings.
Will say the only time I ever had a filter stick was with an engine that had been overhauled, spotlessly clean block and dry seal, it stuck there nicely, took a bit of work to peel it off from the block. A thin oil film on the seal or block does help, I tend to put one both sides of the seal as a matter of course.
Agreed
I've had very good luck with both spraying protectant on the posts, and with greasing the posts. I'm talking about cases where there was real corrosion that was impacting the battery's performance. I clean the post and connection thoroughly, connect it back up, and then seal it. Oxidization requires oxygen. Perhaps we're talking about a different scenario, though. If acid is leeching through you have a faulty battery. The spray and grease prevent atmospheric oxygen from reacting with the metals.
You’ll probably need a battery soon. That one was made 1/21. For several years now, batteries seem to only last 3-4 years. My grand mother (back in the early 70’s) had an original battery on her ‘66 Nova last 7 years.
My experience is when the battery starts to get that kind of corrosion the battery is near end of life. New battery time.
My 2005 Ram 5.7 has 212,000 on it still going strong and no oil usage or transmission problems.Only major thing was the rearend gears set changed out.I was told by the mechanic that fixed my brakes.To not use oem rotors,They will warp quickly after a few hard braking and not last.He installed Napa rotors and ceramic pads and havent had any issues since .Used Napa brand twice over the years and no issues period.Goes show you oem is not always better.He also changed the battery connectors ends to a heavy duty connectors.Love the channel and video content.
First thing I did when I bought my Widebody Hellcat was get rid of the Brembo pads and go with powerstop pads. Less dust same stopping distance
Great job on MYTHS!
And yet again, I'm getting ready to do a repair on a family car, and you make a video about it. First it was the sway bar end links on a PT Cruiser, now it's breaks on a Ram 1500. Thanks for the information. Keep on wrenchin'.
I stopped traveling with those battery jump starters 3 years ago when I found out they make super capacitors that can take 3 volts, suck that up for a 12 volt start and get me to the shop. No battery that has to be replaced every few years and should last 3 lifetimes. I’ve used it twice. Takes about 2 minutes for the capacitor to suck up enough power to start my F150.
Good morning Mr Kenny, hope y'all have a great Monday. Perfect timing on those brakes 😅 that never happens to me. Tell Mrs Kenny I said hello and sir,(Keep Wrenching)😊
I agree with you on the videos. The thing is I liked the all so far
O ordered a Detroit Axle rebuilt rack and pinion. They literally painted over the accumulated oil and dirt in the crevices. It was horribly done. I returned it.
I have seen oil filters installed loose,this is from these quick oil change places.Come in with an oil leak complaint.I have seen comments people saying use a c clamp on the rear brake calipers with the screw pistons pushing them in with it.This is a way to do damage to the caliper.Brake clean,cannot get the good brake clean due to it cannot be sold in 8 states.The low voc crap has to be sold only
I was surprised that you didn't clean the hub face before installing the rotor.
He does the bare minimum.
Strange I have a 2016 with 100,000 and haven't changed brakes yet, they work fine.
Never heard of them lasting that long.
Baking soda and warm water is good for cleaning battery terminals also just a suggestion
Baking soda solution can seep into the battery and cause issues though.
Well done!
Also the two different medals interacting with each other causes some of the corrosion.
The mic is working excellently now.
I always appreciate your videos and experience but you're wrong about protecting parts from corrosion. I've used very simple methods since I was a kid and they do work. An old mechanic, 45 years ago told me to put a drop of engine oil on the posts and it works. It doesn't work "forever" like all things you do to protect parts it needs to be refreshed but that's easy to do at each oil change. I get you don't agree but your example of corroding from inside isn't right. It still happens at the surface even though the fumes of acid come from inside the battery case. I agree with most of your "no additive" opinions but I'd suggest you look harder at this one. Do some good fair testing. Clean up a battery, then oil the post and put a little (LITTLE) on it at each oil change. What does it do long term? I think you'll like the results and it's both Cheap and Easy to do. Whatever you do, thanks for your videos.
I’ll use a piece of board to compress the pistons evenly after I pull the caliper.
I have been told that corrosion in the terminals is a possible sign of the alternator overcharging I do not know if that is correct as I have never had corrosion on any of my vehicles batteries.(or an overcharging alternator.)Cheers Kenny.
When you replace the rotors, could you comment on the quality of rotors. Like the high carbon are more expensive but supposedly more heat resistant the less like to warp (I think). KOKO!
On the battery corrosion, I saw a video where they put oil on the post and the oil coated the post and stopped the acid from migrating. Not sure if it works but if I had a battery doing that, I'd try it for kicks. I can't remember what oil they used on the post.
It works for me
There’s oil on the filter housing. 😉
I use the big channel lock pliers.
No mention of the double rubber seal on the filter? The old one still on the engine.
A sheet of aluminum foil could be used to channel the drained oil.
card board works well too
Cam you MALLET bolts out from the rotor? Realizing you may still need service?
Surprised you don’t punch a hole in the filter, to let it drain, before spinning it off?
I have always done it that way, keeps the mess to a minimum!
I have always done that on anything I could. Punch a hole in the filter can when the engine is hot, come back in a while and the filter will be empty, no mess when you spin it off.
Do you take the cap off of the break reservoir when you push the caliper piston back in?
there are two kids at my shop that wish I could fire I cannot tell you how many times I have had a veh come in for a oil change and they had it last and I needed a breaker bar to remove the drain bolt and filter
I guess you never heard of baking soda and water it cleans that acid right up
I'm sure he knows this. Hot water also works great and is cheaper.
@@MarzNet256 Also the baking soda can seep down into the battery and ruin it.
@@philspear73 100% correct.
Diapers or Doggy Pee Pads work great to catch oil and keep it off the underside components.
Glen Bob? How do you people get two first names?
The old saying that a mechanic has the worst running car on the block does not apply here. It is true for the ones that hate their job, so they neglect their own car. Kenny, I appreciate all your little tips and tricks.
Hey Kenny any merchandise coming out?
Very Good!!
Like this guy's low cost tool flexibility to lower the cost for himself or his bosses. Use tools flexible! Don't ask for new tools.
Very nice!
Watching from Sweden
*"I'm going to be saving the fluid."*
Please do that with the lubrication of your engine!
A bit of extra oil is OK!
TIP for you just plain water start your truck pour water on terminals as its running old school guy here your welcome
How about grease
If battery post were labels on shocks you would make sure they're clean because labels are unprofessional but people that worry about corrosion are being silly?
Invent a battery terminal washer that sprays off when you start and stop the engine. 😂🤣
Not supposed to mix viscosities!
Obviously, Kenny is not from Texas. Them cowboys always have a knife.
Hello Kenny, how come you don't wear gloves?
Real men dont need gloves
Wheel bearing grease on the terminal inside before putting it on the battery.
Yes, it'll conduct.
No it won't corrode.
th-cam.com/video/IebpgDklL8w/w-d-xo.html
Umm clean off the brake pins and regrease them
The cobblers children have no shoes. You should be embarrassed you let your brakes go metal to metal.
He knew it was coming, rotors were due for replacing anyway. No problem to wait for the "acoustic wear indicator". Embarrassed? Get a life.
@@feyxukyutub Acustic wear indicator? They were metal on metal, a hazard on the highway.