agree with 9.5/10 Yes I'm using tubliss, yes , its overcomplicating things, it may get flat, but it lasts much longer than mousse, and i can change the pressure when needed.
Lol first minute and I'm already out. Tubliss is badass. Install it once and every tire change after is easier, traction is superior duet to lower tire pressure, and if you do get a puncture flat it stays on the rim. Been running them for a decade.
be a man and run ultra heavy tubes so you can adjust pressure. mousse gets soft too fast for the money and changes the feel of the bike. tubliss can suck it too
I’ve had Lectron’s on 2 bikes now. They definitely don’t make less power. They idle funny but power from low end to rev through the moon is fantastic. No jets to clog and tune ability with metering rod is awesome.
Yeah, only bikes they make more power is 150cc or less. Think it’s cause they have less intake volume and produce less Venturi effect and the Lectron seems to aid in vaporization of the fuel in those instances. Another thing to consider is lower fuel to air ratio will also increase the heat generated in the burn process. Not to mention skew your premix ratio.
yep. I got almost 700 hours out of my wr450 before needing rebuild. rotella t6 since day one. if its good enough for 80k dollar trucks with turbos that spin 150k rpm, its good enough for a dirtbike.
@@jamesolivier3192 a new KENWORTH t880 day cab is well over 250 000$ now days. I'd be willing to bet 8 out of 10 motorcycle formula oils are diesel engine oil packaged as motorcycle blend. My father is a lubrication specialist or over 40 years in the field. I run Yamalube in my yamaha 4 strokes to maintain the 20 year engine warranty on atv n snowmobile engines, but rotella in my yz250 and kx100 gear boxes.
I've used it forever too, still have an old bottle I'm going through. I did hear they changed the formula to meet API and that's not good for some reason? Not sure if it's true.
Haha good video Morgan, especially agree with how soft folks seem to be these days. Rotella user here btw, I believe botique oils are a waste of $ for most. If you ride like Tomac probably not a bad idea. As long as you're adhering to the manufacturers suggested maintenance most of us don't generate enough heat to break down a very high quality HDEO like Rotella.
My buddys 2017 300XCW has just under 800 hours on the original unopened trans, Rotella the whole time. He's an A rider. There's no point in buying marketing when oil that works great is cheap and readily available.
Agreed, oil is oil. All automotive oils have way more protection than a healthy dirt bike engine needs. The only thing keeping me from running car oil in my bike is the clutch incompatibility. Diesel oil cost about the same and it's in 90% of stores that carry some kind of oil. Buying "motorcycle" oil that's meeting the same requirements as diesel oils isn't going to make your engine last an extra 500 hours between rebuilds.
First off I'm not gonna apologize for loving my tudeless setup... I've got a set with atleast 300 hours on them and have also been switched from my '17 to '22. I don't have problems taking off tires and then remounting based on sand or rocks. Use a stand and good technique and patience. Problem solved. I do use Yamaha tire mount spray to keep things greasy on installation and removal. Change the inner high pressure tube every year or two as recommended in the instructions. I also apply Stan's Notube while seating the rim instead of soapy water. A little messy but it works better also. Once the tire is seated I will pull the core on the tire inlet and add a couple ounces of Stan's for cactus protection. Carry a plug kit and mini pump on the bike also. Air up the high pressure tube to 110 psi every ride and check and adjust tire pressure as needed. Guys who don't do this have problems. 9.5 in back and 11.5 up front and I'm good to go... Well... Still running my '13 model Lectron.
Hahaha this is awesome. Yes your right tubliss is more complicated for the rider that just getting into riding. Once you start feeling the ground through your tires then you may want too explore what tubliss has to offer. Till then start monitoring your air pressure as a regular thing to do. And start building in your skills
Love running 3psi with tubliss and a gummy tire. Traction for days! I also love the Midwest Levers don’t miss smashing my ring and pinky finger anymore. Agree on the risers, I tried and took them off. Great video though! Keep the content coming!
I run mobile1 synthetic motorcycle racing 10:40 4t in all my two smokers and I love it and you can get it almost everywhere as long as it's a wet complete clutch system🤘‼️
I like running tubliss on the rear on my MX bike. I bought it used for $62 bucks and it is so easy to change a tire that I often change the rear before leaving in the morning depending on track conditions that day.
With a neck that’s been through many car wrecks horse wrecks and many therapies I like my bar risers THAT I BOUGHT IN YOUR SHOP. My neck is the first thing to start hurting. I also love my MME clutch lever. Saved me quite a few wrecks as I am learning to modulate my clutch without fatiguing my 60 yo wrist. Oh and what about using ATF in a 2T gear box? I’ll bet Rekluse will be on the next edition. Keep up the good work!
I disagree regarding premix. The ratios are based on the chemistry/formulation of the individual premix oil. Over the years when different ratios were rated for 2 strokes, it was due to the chemistry of the oil that was being used. If you use the same ratio on different premix oils, you will get different results - some will run clean, some will foul plugs more, some will ooze out your muffler, some will run clean, some will run better and some will run worse. KTM - for example - states their premix ratios in their manuals based upon Motorex's oil formulation. I also used to think that it was solely based on what the manual said to run ratio-wise. I mean, back in the day you would run 20:1 because oil didn't protect nearly as well as today's formulations do. Now granted, if you veer too far off ratio-wise what your bike was jetted for, then one would have to richen or lean out your jetting accordingly. And didn't you used to run a Lectron on your bike? Not all of us can afford the newer snazzy fuel injected machines 😂
20:1 ??? yikes. That crazy! Oil doesn't keep the bike for overheating. Gas is also part of the cooling system on old air cooled 2 strokes. too much oil and not enough gas and you could burn a piston easy. The oil might kill the plug ( if lucky)!!
My buddy has a midwest engineering clutch lever on his Sherco (also hydraulic). I tested it and didn't like it. Feels fat and uncomfortable and it's harder to be precise with the clutch.
Mousse is only thing that makes sense for racing..tubliss on rear for fun riding.. no brainer.. easier to deal with than heavy duty tube.. like running low pressures with beefy carcass tires.. never had an issue in last decade
DUDE!!!! WE GOT BEEF!!! LOL!!! One of my favorite videos of yours, ever!!! You’re freaking hilarious!!! I do break 3 of your most hated dirt bike things!!! I run Rox risers, I’m 6’5” bro! I run Tubliss, and they’ve been outstanding, but understand, and respect your point of view! Actually considering going to foamies! I do actually use Rotella…and have for years! LOL!!! I fawking loved the video brother!! Enjoy the dwindling summer!!
I just watch your video and I agree 100 percent, I have been riding, racing, dualsporting and street riding for over 50 years. We need to get back to basic! Thanks
I used to use Tubless, however they do not hold up in the rocks. Tires still go flat when punctured. Finished terrible in 2 races because of them. Now only Bibs.
Here in North Al Tubliss is a must on the rear for traction. I usually run 5psi in the rear tire. I like the idea of a mousse but don't think they make it so they act like you are running 5psi. I do agree with using a mousse for racing.
Actually up until just a few years ago, Rekluse recommended Rotella for their clutches, but at some point Rotella changed thier formula and the Rekluse rep we talked to at Loretta Lynns day it's not as good as it once was. That said, my Rekluse is more responsive with rotella than Motul or Yamalube. Im not giving 30 dollars a quart for Rekluse brand do i cant speak to their oil. Thanks
Heck yeah firm believer in dirt tread on every thing from my moms sporty because we live in country to dirt tread and tossing lugs off on a ninja and fzr but i have put a trials bike tire on a kx 250 it was shit everywhere but the skatepark and staircases and some cool ledges in campus town and through the city but yes trials tire on dirt is worthless. Only did it for hooliganism and went straight in to winter with fully studded geotraxx
100% agree that tubliss is stupid and adds complexity and weight to something simple like an inner tube or mousse. Also I agree with pretty much everything you said.
Tubliss is awesome. I ride 6 psi in front and 3 in rear. (185 lbs including full kit) Get major (way better) traction all the time and never get flats!
Tubliss and Rotella T6 in my 2016 Beta 300RR for 500hrs still on orgional clutch and Tubliss system in rear tire. XC race it for full season every year so I'm not easy on it. You're right though that's the 10 things you hate. To each there own. Ride on brother love your videos.
I agree about the Notsosrmartcarbs/Lectrons. What blows my mind is paying a fortune to switch from FI to carburetion & then choosing smartcarbs over the better proven Keihin. I love bar risers & lowering pegs though.
Tubliss is the shiznit…. That is all…. Oh and i am really close friends with the guys that invented rekluse (I am not an auto clutch fan) but they recommend rotella when using their clutches. 🤘🏻
Rotella sucks, it causes notchier shifting, worse clutch modulation and gets cooked super easy. I do wish more trail riders would run trials tires as they're way less damaging to trails, work surprisingly well in most conditions that I've tried them in and last a long time.
For sure on Tubliss. I tried to make them work on several occasions, but in the end a simple set of ultra heavy duty tubes work just fine and never get pinch flats
I subscribed. I admire that you stated your opinions and dislikes. However I love tubeless and easy tire changes. My sherco seems to love Rotella T6 and even calls for 5/40 full syn good stuff and I buy it by the gallon. And my smart carb 2 is Great too good mileage runs better on bottom top end is so so but I’m single track riding. I do enjoy your content
🤌Tubliss and half of mousse over it🤌 sounds even more complicated, but it is the best. Also some pros use it. What do you think? Would you try it? You will never go back. Use old mousse, cut aprox. in half or dig a bit of trench in it if mousse is harder, so if you want to run as low as 0.2 bar, mousse is not in the way. Best grip, if you puncture the tire, you can ride on on mousse until fixing (if you want more pressure).
That is a cool system for sure. I’m not a big low pressure guy though. I like a stiffer tire for the kind of riding I do most of the time. I’m sure for the nasty stuff it would be bad ass.
Gotta agree with most, but Rotella for the win for me. Been using it last 12 years in numerous bikes with no problems. I go no more than 4-5 hrs between changes though since its only 12-$15 a gallon , and Engine ice works great
Where do you buy it for $12-$15 a gallon I just bought Rotella yesterday and at Wal-Mart it's $20 per gallon before tax. The 2.5/Gal container was $48.some change. I haven't seen it $12 a gallon since Rotella got it JASO certified which raised the price some.
Tubliss sucks! I bought a bike that had tubliss in the rear. First race I had to quit cause it went flat. When I took it apart the slime or whatever they had put in it had eaten the aluminum on the inside of my rim and had to buy a new rim. Love your videos. Wish I was close enough to CO to ride with u guys.
Dang I just picked up a super clean 2018 300xcw. The previous owner has been running saber 100-1. I haven’t gotten to ride it enough to run the tank dry yet but was going to use it. Now I’m thinking about using my standard dominator. I wonder if I’ll have to mess with jetting.
Mostly agree, but not totally. MME levers have a place. That place is on KTM 450s with the cupped washer style clutch spring. The only people who can pull that stock clutch lever for a 2+ hour hare scramble are in their mid 20s, were born lefty and probably spend too much time on adult websites.
Fork Skins- I don't like them either. But I found that my seals seep oil without them. I've had luck using them. I live in a dusty area and have little to no mud. Otherwise I wouldn't use them.
rotella will take extreme heat. always use rotella with my rekluse. cam lobes look great and well within spec with over 200 hrs. used to use bel ray thumper until connecting rod bearing locked up on a bike in 2010. been using rotella since. rotella for the win!!
I agree with everything besides the lectron and smart carb some rather ride then adjust carbs one weekend im 10,000 feet in elevation Other weekend im 1000 , makes great power all around saves me alot of race fuel and yes a well tuned kehin carb will preform better but i doubt many know how to jet including myself cheer fam happy holidays
I'm with you 80% and if I lived in a world of rocks like you do it might have been 90%. But in my muddy, root covered world Tubliss is king and easier to use than tubes, no pinch worries on installation of the tire. Unless you have some scientific reason to not use T6 Im'a gonna keep using it. I am tempted to try a moose or balls next time I need to buy something tho, might as well give them a try. When I was a kid my first couple motocross races were on a 1974 Suzuki TS185, with stock trials tires, did not go well.
Morgan, I just saw this, great video!…Question? As an average dirt biker, do you have any tips, secrets, or suggestions to become a huge dirt biker, such as yourself? Anxiously awaiting your advice…gotta go for now, moms got dinner ready! Thx bro!
MORGAN I HAVE to comment!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOVE the video, huge thanks for sharing!!!!!!!!!!!!! I've used LOTs of rotella when I had a large truck, I even used it in everything, lol I do spend some $$ on 7100 too. My lawnmower still gets Rotella(I prob have a 10 year supply for the mower, lol) Gummy tires rock!!!!!!!!!!! I have one trail bike, mousse up front, Tubliss in the back with a gummy, I think I sleep better the night before a ride with my faster friends, I'm afraid of no amount of wet collected baby heads on the trail, lol. I'm kind of a mousse noob, haven't tried a rear plushie yet. I've had Tubliss failures, but its always my fault, slime in the HP bladder can make valves leak(but it did stop the psi slow leaking). I've bought a used bike with midwest levers, no failure yet(knock on wood), lol, I don't mind them, won't replace them until I break them. My buddies think it's good bling, so I'm in their head while riding. It's been a while since I've mixed gas, but I smile every time when I smell Klotz!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have a slow Mtn bike, I love it SO MUCH, I bought an ebike, I should get it a bigger motor(at least 350xc ISH). (they are getting better) I run fans, and engine ICE, so far the kids haven't used the blue stuff in their cars, so the BLU is working. (Kids, BLU goes in bikes, lol) Thanks for the smiles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No hate here
I no longer have a 2 smoke but every one I had got klotz mix. I ride an old but minty ktm 400exc and it does everything ok and nothing horrible ....but I'm not young and able to use a kicker or do running push and hop onto a bike that is resisting a restart after a hot stall or dumping and am spoiled with elec starting and wide ratio gearbox and a broad rpm range of power that's stronger than 125 2smoke and close to 250 2smoke but without the 250s missing end low torque. Until it dies and is too old to locate parts I can't justify putting the ol girl up for sale and spend crazy $ for a new 450 or a fuel injected 2smoker....just can't do it
Lol. I’ve used T6 in 2 KTMs, a RMZ, a KX-F, with over 400 hours of zero issues. Always use the 5w-40 t6 and it works great. And yes. I hate bar risers and tubliss are silly.
I have been looking at 2 stroke oils and which ones work best on keeping the power valve from getting sticky. Ran motorex at 60:1 like KTM suggests and at 130 hrs on the 300 the ring was stuck on the piston in a 1" area and power valve was getting sticky. Anyone have better luck with other mix oils out there, bike isn't running rich, and mostly ride tight woods single track so mostly lower rpm riding.
I know u don’t like it but I been using Saber 80:1 in 250xc over 300 hours 0 issues, ride woods an up u til last summer a sand moto track like 3 times a week , on my 3 top end bike runs ridiculous good still ! I’m not a mechanic like you but I swear stuff works
Another good video! I have Tubliss on two bikes and would like to stop carrying tire tools. Bibs aren't cheap at all if their service life is yearly. What is the service life of a bib for a single-trakker who rides about 1500mi yearly in Taylor, CB?
i run tubliss in the rear , yes its a little more work but the adjust ability is the best , mousse tubes dont work for me as i cant be bothered changing it every time i switch from super wet creek riding to flat out single track , as low psi feels like im on a boat when riding fast haha i also use amsoil saber but i run it at 50 / 60:1 would never run 100:1 but the oil is really good quality i do agree with the other things you stated haha
I have to chim in on the rosella topic. Main reason I use it is I buy it in 55 gallon drums. Its cheap and I've always ran it. Its still cheap in bulk. For you bargain shoppers.
I will argue about the meter carbs all day, My 09 yz250 runs way way better than it ever did with the Carb. way snappier on the throttle as well. Crab jetting sucks, out dated. I am all for the new EFI KTM's
I’ve had a Lectron on two YZ250’s (01 and 13). Both were tuned to run VP T2. They are brilliant and work so well! The bikes are crisp and efficient. The Lectron may take a little bit of the hit away but not a whole lot. They still rip up top and produce the cleanest spark plugs I have ever seen.
I agree with everything on this list. The fuel mix stuff drives me bananas. I almost called the cops on the tubliss stab but my wife talked me down. I bought some bids along time ago and they died in 10hrs. Maybe they were n.o.s. and bad or something.
Rotella is just fine for something like a Dr 650 or a Japanese dual sport, on nicer stuff I usually use it as a break in oil and then change it after break in heat Cycles.
I use rotella oil and never had any problems with it as long as it has the jaso-ma in it. I wouldn’t recommend the other rotella oils as they don’t have that additive for the wet clutch.
Here's my list 1. Flat bill over size hats. Don't pretend to be part of Metal Militiia. 2. Baggy pants 3. Tattoos 4. 12k bike 5k add ONS should have spent money on riding classes 5. 150k van to haul you 17k bike 6. special "race mechanic" shirt to walk around in the pits 7. Pit Bikes 8. Revving you bike to the moon on the starting line every time the lines ahead of you go off. 9. Not having your bike prepared before you drive to race/ride 10. Taking this post to serious
the guys that run trials tires with their fork skins, tubliss, 2023 erzberg ktm 300 that they’ll put 14 hours on, and the sprinter van are the vet Motocross dudes of this “soft enduro” bullshit 😂
@@Dat_Sun Neither, I can afford anything, I was a wrench for a Pro Rider for 5 years and kept close wear measurement's on our race motors (Valves, Cams etc.) and found it flawless, its ability to carry heat is phenomenal, clutch performance is way better than say MoterX or Silkolene. But here is the big one, on a Yamaha 250FX I forgot to put water in a bike at the start of a local HS race, the motor got so hot all the cable and wiring sleveing next to the motor melted off! The rider won the race and the motor had no additional wear, valves still in spec everything ok. I will fight anyone on this subject, most people don't really have enough experience to have a dog in the fight though.
@@jamescox4823 Interesting, I've seen the stuff used in just about everything. I had one bike that seemed to simply wear out faster than any other sportbike I've had, this was my 1st zx14 an (08). I used only t6 from 800 miles to 40k. Around 20k the bike started using oil between changes, 30k shifting started feeling like ass, followed by occasional popping out of gear. Upon inspection at overhaul, it looked like it had a 100,000 miles on the transmission, piston rings, skirts had some scuffing (never seen this before) cam shaft journals looks sketchy. Not saying T6 doesn't work, but this was the only a sport bike let me down in this way before 100,000 miles. I'm sure you know with basic maintenance these type of bikes regularly see over 100k miles before any overhaul service is required. For the record, I used kawi OEM air and oil filters. Now, I order my oil ahead of time and get it for less than the rotella costs now, it's specific to MA, and I have 80k miles on my current 14 with zero oil consumption or other problems as experienced with the prior 14 and t6. This was just my experience over the miles and years. I think what really matters in most "cases" is clean oil, my old datsun is a example of this, the internals look as though they were machined yesterday after all these years.
Dang it man, I’ve watched a few of these now and I keep waiting for an opinion that I disagree with so I can argue, but I tend to agree with everything so far 🤣😂
I agree with everything you said barber tubeless because I don't have to carry a tube just a pug kit and traction is better and I can run with a flat but the rest of what you said is piss funny🤣👍
agree with 9.5/10
Yes I'm using tubliss, yes , its overcomplicating things, it may get flat, but it lasts much longer than mousse, and i can change the pressure when needed.
Lol first minute and I'm already out. Tubliss is badass. Install it once and every tire change after is easier, traction is superior duet to lower tire pressure, and if you do get a puncture flat it stays on the rim. Been running them for a decade.
We will have to agree to disagree. I’ve seen them fail in the worst places ever and I just keep riding with my mousses.
be a man and run ultra heavy tubes so you can adjust pressure. mousse gets soft too fast for the money and changes the feel of the bike. tubliss can suck it too
@@GiantMX but with horrible handling because a lot of weight on the wheels and tires feel like they are gonna fall of at low psi
I’ve had Lectron’s on 2 bikes now. They definitely don’t make less power. They idle funny but power from low end to rev through the moon is fantastic. No jets to clog and tune ability with metering rod is awesome.
The dyno says otherwise. Maybe your stock carb was so far off it feels faster now. It’s so much better to use a proper carburetor.
Yeah, only bikes they make more power is 150cc or less. Think it’s cause they have less intake volume and produce less Venturi effect and the Lectron seems to aid in vaporization of the fuel in those instances.
Another thing to consider is lower fuel to air ratio will also increase the heat generated in the burn process. Not to mention skew your premix ratio.
@@warrenyoung7503 The Mikuni was / is jetted perfectly and made good power. I just wanted to try something different.
Rotella is JASO-MA, so it's passed the requirements to be used in wet clutch engines. Totally safe. Been using it for yrs.
100%
yep. I got almost 700 hours out of my wr450 before needing rebuild. rotella t6 since day one. if its good enough for 80k dollar trucks with turbos that spin 150k rpm, its good enough for a dirtbike.
I agree. No sense in paying more for oil that your just going to change every 5 hours
@@jamesolivier3192 a new KENWORTH t880 day cab is well over 250 000$ now days.
I'd be willing to bet 8 out of 10 motorcycle formula oils are diesel engine oil packaged as motorcycle blend. My father is a lubrication specialist or over 40 years in the field. I run Yamalube in my yamaha 4 strokes to maintain the 20 year engine warranty on atv n snowmobile engines, but rotella in my yz250 and kx100 gear boxes.
I've used it forever too, still have an old bottle I'm going through. I did hear they changed the formula to meet API and that's not good for some reason? Not sure if it's true.
1 thing I hate about dirtbiking.... fucking quads and side by side people. They're rich, old and fat.
For a second I thought you were talking adventure bikers...
Haha good video Morgan, especially agree with how soft folks seem to be these days. Rotella user here btw, I believe botique oils are a waste of $ for most. If you ride like Tomac probably not a bad idea. As long as you're adhering to the manufacturers suggested maintenance most of us don't generate enough heat to break down a very high quality HDEO like Rotella.
I generally agree. Most oils have all the properties you need. Maybe just change them as specified.
My buddys 2017 300XCW has just under 800 hours on the original unopened trans, Rotella the whole time. He's an A rider. There's no point in buying marketing when oil that works great is cheap and readily available.
Agreed, oil is oil. All automotive oils have way more protection than a healthy dirt bike engine needs. The only thing keeping me from running car oil in my bike is the clutch incompatibility. Diesel oil cost about the same and it's in 90% of stores that carry some kind of oil. Buying "motorcycle" oil that's meeting the same requirements as diesel oils isn't going to make your engine last an extra 500 hours between rebuilds.
I hate the driving 1-3 hours to the trail. That’s the thing that burns me out.
I had this same problem, then I found a vehicle that made the drive entertaining.
I have the same issues. The good stuff is 1.5 minimum and 2.5. Cooler stuff farther out. I feel you for sure.
No disagreements, the pipes on the phone ringer sounds killer. Maybe your intro would sound cool with it.
First off I'm not gonna apologize for loving my tudeless setup... I've got a set with atleast 300 hours on them and have also been switched from my '17 to '22. I don't have problems taking off tires and then remounting based on sand or rocks. Use a stand and good technique and patience. Problem solved. I do use Yamaha tire mount spray to keep things greasy on installation and removal. Change the inner high pressure tube every year or two as recommended in the instructions. I also apply Stan's Notube while seating the rim instead of soapy water. A little messy but it works better also. Once the tire is seated I will pull the core on the tire inlet and add a couple ounces of Stan's for cactus protection. Carry a plug kit and mini pump on the bike also. Air up the high pressure tube to 110 psi every ride and check and adjust tire pressure as needed. Guys who don't do this have problems. 9.5 in back and 11.5 up front and I'm good to go...
Well... Still running my '13 model Lectron.
I don't think I can argue with that. Spot on
Hahaha this is awesome. Yes your right tubliss is more complicated for the rider that just getting into riding. Once you start feeling the ground through your tires then you may want too explore what tubliss has to offer. Till then start monitoring your air pressure as a regular thing to do. And start building in your skills
Agree with everything except the levers. Love my Midwest Mountain Engineering levers. Great topic to stir some hornets nests!
My too best levers around
My worthless 2 cents would be new bikes with no kickstarter or even worse, new bikes with no OPTION for a kickstarter.
Why I bought used bikes with backup kickstart
I ordered a TM 300. Comes with a backup kicker. Even their 4-strokes still have a backup kicker.
Love running 3psi with tubliss and a gummy tire. Traction for days! I also love the Midwest Levers don’t miss smashing my ring and pinky finger anymore. Agree on the risers, I tried and took them off. Great video though! Keep the content coming!
I run mobile1 synthetic motorcycle racing 10:40 4t in all my two smokers and I love it and you can get it almost everywhere as long as it's a wet complete clutch system🤘‼️
I like running tubliss on the rear on my MX bike. I bought it used for $62 bucks and it is so easy to change a tire that I often change the rear before leaving in the morning depending on track conditions that day.
With a neck that’s been through many car wrecks horse wrecks and many therapies I like my bar risers THAT I BOUGHT IN YOUR SHOP. My neck is the first thing to start hurting. I also love my MME clutch lever. Saved me quite a few wrecks as I am learning to modulate my clutch without fatiguing my 60 yo wrist. Oh and what about using ATF in a 2T gear box? I’ll bet Rekluse will be on the next edition. Keep up the good work!
According to Gary Bailey you should have a 1 finger space between the apex of your lever and your 1st finger
THAT 84 -85 RZ350 IS BEAUTIFUL....
I disagree regarding premix.
The ratios are based on the chemistry/formulation of the individual premix oil. Over the years when different ratios were rated for 2 strokes, it was due to the chemistry of the oil that was being used. If you use the same ratio on different premix oils, you will get different results - some will run clean, some will foul plugs more, some will ooze out your muffler, some will run clean, some will run better and some will run worse. KTM - for example - states their premix ratios in their manuals based upon Motorex's oil formulation.
I also used to think that it was solely based on what the manual said to run ratio-wise.
I mean, back in the day you would run 20:1 because oil didn't protect nearly as well as today's formulations do. Now granted, if you veer too far off ratio-wise what your bike was jetted for, then one would have to richen or lean out your jetting accordingly.
And didn't you used to run a Lectron on your bike? Not all of us can afford the newer snazzy fuel injected machines 😂
20:1 ??? yikes. That crazy!
Oil doesn't keep the bike for overheating. Gas is also part of the cooling system on old air cooled 2 strokes. too much oil and not enough gas and you could burn a piston easy. The oil might kill the plug ( if lucky)!!
His point about Saber is spot on though. Amsoil specifically says do not use it in powersports applications.
Glad you made a statement about oil.
My buddy has a midwest engineering clutch lever on his Sherco (also hydraulic). I tested it and didn't like it. Feels fat and uncomfortable and it's harder to be precise with the clutch.
Mousse is only thing that makes sense for racing..tubliss on rear for fun riding.. no brainer.. easier to deal with than heavy duty tube.. like running low pressures with beefy carcass tires.. never had an issue in last decade
Serious question Morgan, how many engines have you seen have catastrophic failures due to Rotella oil?
Lots! more than i can count!
@@bradymeador5798 LOL
Bro the war is on terror not Rotella 😳🤣
Stoked you like the set up and really glad you got a chance to ride the best set up for the KTM’s available today 🛴🔥🚀
DUDE!!!! WE GOT BEEF!!! LOL!!! One of my favorite videos of yours, ever!!! You’re freaking hilarious!!! I do break 3 of your most hated dirt bike things!!! I run Rox risers, I’m 6’5” bro! I run Tubliss, and they’ve been outstanding, but understand, and respect your point of view! Actually considering going to foamies! I do actually use Rotella…and have for years! LOL!!! I fawking loved the video brother!! Enjoy the dwindling summer!!
I just watch your video and I agree 100 percent, I have been riding, racing, dualsporting and street riding for over 50 years. We need to get back to basic! Thanks
Well said!
I used to use Tubless, however they do not hold up in the rocks. Tires still go flat when punctured. Finished terrible in 2 races because of them. Now only Bibs.
Love my Tubliss works great not changing it. Moose nope dont last one season,
Here in North Al Tubliss is a must on the rear for traction. I usually run 5psi in the rear tire. I like the idea of a mousse but don't think they make it so they act like you are running 5psi. I do agree with using a mousse for racing.
Actually up until just a few years ago, Rekluse recommended Rotella for their clutches, but at some point Rotella changed thier formula and the Rekluse rep we talked to at Loretta Lynns day it's not as good as it once was. That said, my Rekluse is more responsive with rotella than Motul or Yamalube. Im not giving 30 dollars a quart for Rekluse brand do i cant speak to their oil. Thanks
“The whole point of these things is to go fast.”
Yes!
Right?!
Heck yeah firm believer in dirt tread on every thing from my moms sporty because we live in country to dirt tread and tossing lugs off on a ninja and fzr but i have put a trials bike tire on a kx 250 it was shit everywhere but the skatepark and staircases and some cool ledges in campus town and through the city but yes trials tire on dirt is worthless. Only did it for hooliganism and went straight in to winter with fully studded geotraxx
Mousse bib for the dam win💪🏼
100% agree that tubliss is stupid and adds complexity and weight to something simple like an inner tube or mousse. Also I agree with pretty much everything you said.
I Love my tubliss! 😆
Mouse is so hard.
Tubliss is awesome. I ride 6 psi in front and 3 in rear. (185 lbs including full kit) Get major (way better) traction all the time and never get flats!
Tubliss and Rotella T6 in my 2016 Beta 300RR for 500hrs still on orgional clutch and Tubliss system in rear tire. XC race it for full season every year so I'm not easy on it. You're right though that's the 10 things you hate. To each there own. Ride on brother love your videos.
I agree about the Notsosrmartcarbs/Lectrons. What blows my mind is paying a fortune to switch from FI to carburetion & then choosing smartcarbs over the better proven Keihin. I love bar risers & lowering pegs though.
You're probably tall like me if you're loving bar risers and lowering pegs. These bikes are fairly big but still made for people under 6ft.
Yeah, you can go from full to flat in seconds 😆
You can tell how much I love my metering rod carb. It's sitting in a box in your shop somewhere.
😂🤣
Tubliss is the shiznit…. That is all…. Oh and i am really close friends with the guys that invented rekluse (I am not an auto clutch fan) but they recommend rotella when using their clutches. 🤘🏻
They changed that recommendation from what I heard.
Rotella sucks, it causes notchier shifting, worse clutch modulation and gets cooked super easy. I do wish more trail riders would run trials tires as they're way less damaging to trails, work surprisingly well in most conditions that I've tried them in and last a long time.
For sure on Tubliss. I tried to make them work on several occasions, but in the end a simple set of ultra heavy duty tubes work just fine and never get pinch flats
I subscribed. I admire that you stated your opinions and dislikes. However I love tubeless and easy tire changes. My sherco seems to love Rotella T6 and even calls for 5/40 full syn good stuff and I buy it by the gallon. And my smart carb 2 is Great too good mileage runs better on bottom top end is so so but I’m single track riding. I do enjoy your content
🤌Tubliss and half of mousse over it🤌 sounds even more complicated, but it is the best. Also some pros use it. What do you think? Would you try it? You will never go back. Use old mousse, cut aprox. in half or dig a bit of trench in it if mousse is harder, so if you want to run as low as 0.2 bar, mousse is not in the way. Best grip, if you puncture the tire, you can ride on on mousse until fixing (if you want more pressure).
That is a cool system for sure. I’m not a big low pressure guy though. I like a stiffer tire for the kind of riding I do most of the time. I’m sure for the nasty stuff it would be bad ass.
Gotta agree with most, but Rotella for the win for me. Been using it last 12 years in numerous bikes with no problems. I go no more than 4-5 hrs between changes though since its only 12-$15 a gallon , and Engine ice works great
Where do you buy it for $12-$15 a gallon I just bought Rotella yesterday and at Wal-Mart it's $20 per gallon before tax. The 2.5/Gal container was $48.some change. I haven't seen it $12 a gallon since Rotella got it JASO certified which raised the price some.
@Meekerextreme dang my Walmart sells it for like 13.90
Tubliss sucks! I bought a bike that had tubliss in the rear. First race I had to quit cause it went flat. When I took it apart the slime or whatever they had put in it had eaten the aluminum on the inside of my rim and had to buy a new rim. Love your videos. Wish I was close enough to CO to ride with u guys.
I agree with all of these.. and Rekluse
Dang I just picked up a super clean 2018 300xcw. The previous owner has been running saber 100-1. I haven’t gotten to ride it enough to run the tank dry yet but was going to use it. Now I’m thinking about using my standard dominator. I wonder if I’ll have to mess with jetting.
You’re jetting will be fine
Mostly agree, but not totally. MME levers have a place. That place is on KTM 450s with the cupped washer style clutch spring. The only people who can pull
that stock clutch lever for a 2+ hour hare scramble are in their mid 20s, were born lefty and probably spend too much time on adult websites.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 correct
Best description ever
Nice work buddy!!!!! Very informative thx
love tubliss so far and have had 0 issues. Agree with the rotella (buy a bike for $12 grand and then cant afford oil?)
I love you bro! That was the best ever, I have your back on all 10 of these. You had me roll’n bud
Fork Skins- I don't like them either. But I found that my seals seep oil without them. I've had luck using them. I live in a dusty area and have little to no mud. Otherwise I wouldn't use them.
rotella will take extreme heat. always use rotella with my rekluse. cam lobes look great and well within spec with over 200 hrs. used to use bel ray thumper until connecting rod bearing locked up on a bike in 2010. been using rotella since. rotella for the win!!
I agree with everything besides the lectron and smart carb some rather ride then adjust carbs one weekend im 10,000 feet in elevation
Other weekend im 1000 , makes great power all around saves me alot of race fuel and yes a well tuned kehin carb will preform better but i doubt many know how to jet including myself cheer fam happy holidays
I'm with you 80% and if I lived in a world of rocks like you do it might have been 90%. But in my muddy, root covered world Tubliss is king and easier to use than tubes, no pinch worries on installation of the tire. Unless you have some scientific reason to not use T6 Im'a gonna keep using it. I am tempted to try a moose or balls next time I need to buy something tho, might as well give them a try. When I was a kid my first couple motocross races were on a 1974 Suzuki TS185, with stock trials tires, did not go well.
Morgan,
I just saw this, great video!…Question?
As an average dirt biker, do you have any tips, secrets, or suggestions to become a huge dirt biker, such as yourself?
Anxiously awaiting your advice…gotta go for now, moms got dinner ready!
Thx bro!
Bwahahahaha!!! We need to ride together Jim
MORGAN I HAVE to comment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOVE the video, huge thanks for sharing!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've used LOTs of rotella when I had a large truck, I even used it in everything, lol I do spend some $$ on 7100 too. My lawnmower still gets Rotella(I prob have a 10 year supply for the mower, lol)
Gummy tires rock!!!!!!!!!!!
I have one trail bike, mousse up front, Tubliss in the back with a gummy, I think I sleep better the night before a ride with my faster friends, I'm afraid of no amount of wet collected baby heads on the trail, lol. I'm kind of a mousse noob, haven't tried a rear plushie yet. I've had Tubliss failures, but its always my fault, slime in the HP bladder can make valves leak(but it did stop the psi slow leaking).
I've bought a used bike with midwest levers, no failure yet(knock on wood), lol, I don't mind them, won't replace them until I break them. My buddies think it's good bling, so I'm in their head while riding.
It's been a while since I've mixed gas, but I smile every time when I smell Klotz!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have a slow Mtn bike, I love it SO MUCH, I bought an ebike, I should get it a bigger motor(at least 350xc ISH). (they are getting better)
I run fans, and engine ICE, so far the kids haven't used the blue stuff in their cars, so the BLU is working. (Kids, BLU goes in bikes, lol)
Thanks for the smiles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No hate here
I no longer have a 2 smoke but every one I had got klotz mix. I ride an old but minty ktm 400exc and it does everything ok and nothing horrible ....but I'm not young and able to use a kicker or do running push and hop onto a bike that is resisting a restart after a hot stall or dumping and am spoiled with elec starting and wide ratio gearbox and a broad rpm range of power that's stronger than 125 2smoke and close to 250 2smoke but without the 250s missing end low torque. Until it dies and is too old to locate parts I can't justify putting the ol girl up for sale and spend crazy $ for a new 450 or a fuel injected 2smoker....just can't do it
Lol. I’ve used T6 in 2 KTMs, a RMZ, a KX-F, with over 400 hours of zero issues. Always use the 5w-40 t6 and it works great. And yes. I hate bar risers and tubliss are silly.
Love my T6.... Works great in 2 stroke and 500.... And my truck... Do
I have been looking at 2 stroke oils and which ones work best on keeping the power valve from getting sticky. Ran motorex at 60:1 like KTM suggests and at 130 hrs on the 300 the ring was stuck on the piston in a 1" area and power valve was getting sticky. Anyone have better luck with other mix oils out there, bike isn't running rich, and mostly ride tight woods single track so mostly lower rpm riding.
I get along well with motorex but I’d try Motul. It’s really good
The Blackstone analysis on my Rotella T6 from my race bikes have consistently kept up with and even surpassed the top Jaso MA oils like Motul 300V.
I know u don’t like it but I been using Saber 80:1 in 250xc over 300 hours 0 issues, ride woods an up u til last summer a sand moto track like 3 times a week , on my 3 top end bike runs ridiculous good still ! I’m not a mechanic like you but I swear stuff works
i agree its really good quality oil and burns very clean ive also been using it for 500/600 hours
Btw I use rotted a as well lol again 0 issues just change gear oil every 20 hours
Rotella T4 jaso-Ma2 for the win!!! Brapp 💨
Another good video! I have Tubliss on two bikes and would like to stop carrying tire tools. Bibs aren't cheap at all if their service life is yearly. What is the service life of a bib for a single-trakker who rides about 1500mi yearly in Taylor, CB?
Re: vent hose… where would you re-route if it hits / blocks a steering stabilizer? Or are stabilizers are the list too?!
No, I like stabilizers. What biie
@@highlandcycles 22 EC300
@@jpp2422 hum, I always route those to the right side of the frame (stock routing) without any issue. Might have to shorten it up to have it stay low
Hot dog im doing good the only thing on the list i have is the gas cap breather.
Hahahah
I love EVERYTHING about this video! Haha good job
Imma make a video on why Morgan is wrong about tubliss and Lectrons
HAHA, DO IT!
I like it!! Can’t wait.
i run tubliss in the rear , yes its a little more work but the adjust ability is the best , mousse tubes dont work for me as i cant be bothered changing it every time i switch from super wet creek riding to flat out single track , as low psi feels like im on a boat when riding fast haha
i also use amsoil saber but i run it at 50 / 60:1 would never run 100:1 but the oil is really good quality
i do agree with the other things you stated haha
All the comments are great. I really like engine ice coolant and using Rotella as a pre-mix in my air cooled 4 stroke.
I have to chim in on the rosella topic. Main reason I use it is I buy it in 55 gallon drums. Its cheap and I've always ran it. Its still cheap in bulk. For you bargain shoppers.
I will argue about the meter carbs all day, My 09 yz250 runs way way better than it ever did with the Carb. way snappier on the throttle as well. Crab jetting sucks, out dated. I am all for the new EFI KTM's
That wasn’t my experience on my YZ250. No matter what I did with the Lectron I couldn’t make it as good as my kehin
I’ve had a Lectron on two YZ250’s (01 and 13). Both were tuned to run VP T2. They are brilliant and work so well! The bikes are crisp and efficient. The Lectron may take a little bit of the hit away but not a whole lot. They still rip up top and produce the cleanest spark plugs I have ever seen.
I agree with you 100% on everything you say
Superflo hose for gas cap.engine ice because won’t kill your dog 🐶
I agree with everything on this list. The fuel mix stuff drives me bananas. I almost called the cops on the tubliss stab but my wife talked me down. I bought some bids along time ago and they died in 10hrs. Maybe they were n.o.s. and bad or something.
I’m testing a new product now called mousse balls (hehehe) they are supposed to last a very long time.
Sounds exotic. Ill keep a eye out for the review.
Rotella is just fine for something like a Dr 650 or a Japanese dual sport, on nicer stuff I usually use it as a break in oil and then change it after break in heat Cycles.
I use rotella oil and never had any problems with it as long as it has the jaso-ma in it. I wouldn’t recommend the other rotella oils as they don’t have that additive for the wet clutch.
Tubliss is awesome I would never go back to tubes.
10/10 list!
Get out if the way! Lets see that Yamaha behind you...Is that a RD400 Daytona Special or RZ350????
I have/use most things in the video and you didn’t hurt my feelings at all 😂
Holy crap! Nice work! Hahahaha, people are just too soft these days!
This video reminds me of an old t-shirt that read- shut up and ride-.
Love the spoof video. Be sure to give Ben a big shout out. You gonna make hats that say “I suck at dirt biking” ?
I will definitely be giving him credit! He is the best and we will definitely make shirts and hats like that
I need a shirt that says "I suck at dirt bike riding... but I ride anyway!" ahahaha.
Here's my list
1. Flat bill over size hats. Don't pretend to be part of Metal Militiia.
2. Baggy pants
3. Tattoos
4. 12k bike 5k add ONS should have spent money on riding classes
5. 150k van to haul you 17k bike
6. special "race mechanic" shirt to walk around in the pits
7. Pit Bikes
8. Revving you bike to the moon on the starting line every time the lines ahead of you go off.
9. Not having your bike prepared before you drive to race/ride
10. Taking this post to serious
Spoke straws are in my opinion the worst!
Nah, they add BLING!!!!!
Durr which thingy do I hook the air pump too duuuurrrrrr.
First time watching this guy....guess what ! HE RIGHT
Thanks. Make sure you subscribe, lots more good stuff coming
the guys that run trials tires with their fork skins, tubliss, 2023 erzberg ktm 300 that they’ll put 14 hours on, and the sprinter van are the vet Motocross dudes of this “soft enduro” bullshit 😂
Hahaha
Agree 9 out of 10. I use T4 in everything. My friends 525 etc has 900 hours on it and original top end with only T4 ever used on it
Saber is kind of a gimmick. It is thicker and that allows the 100 to 1 mix. I wouldn’t use it.
I love, love love your shirt and the work you do, Thank you so much.
I agree with about 50 percent of that.
Great list. Tubliss is stupid. I do run bar risers because it’s way easier to reach clickers/bleeders
love the bar risers and trials tires points.
nevermind, all good points. was looking forward to being offended. maybe next time 🤷♂
I will not use anything other than Rotella, Im calling you Monday
Do you use it because of its price and availability? Or other reasons?
@@Dat_Sun Neither, I can afford anything, I was a wrench for a Pro Rider for 5 years and kept close wear measurement's on our race motors (Valves, Cams etc.) and found it flawless, its ability to carry heat is phenomenal, clutch performance is way better than say MoterX or Silkolene. But here is the big one, on a Yamaha 250FX I forgot to put water in a bike at the start of a local HS race, the motor got so hot all the cable and wiring sleveing next to the motor melted off! The rider won the race and the motor had no additional wear, valves still in spec everything ok. I will fight anyone on this subject, most people don't really have enough experience to have a dog in the fight though.
@@jamescox4823 Interesting, I've seen the stuff used in just about everything. I had one bike that seemed to simply wear out faster than any other sportbike I've had, this was my 1st zx14 an (08). I used only t6 from 800 miles to 40k. Around 20k the bike started using oil between changes, 30k shifting started feeling like ass, followed by occasional popping out of gear. Upon inspection at overhaul, it looked like it had a 100,000 miles on the transmission, piston rings, skirts had some scuffing (never seen this before) cam shaft journals looks sketchy. Not saying T6 doesn't work, but this was the only a sport bike let me down in this way before 100,000 miles. I'm sure you know with basic maintenance these type of bikes regularly see over 100k miles before any overhaul service is required. For the record, I used kawi OEM air and oil filters. Now, I order my oil ahead of time and get it for less than the rotella costs now, it's specific to MA, and I have 80k miles on my current 14 with zero oil consumption or other problems as experienced with the prior 14 and t6. This was just my experience over the miles and years. I think what really matters in most "cases" is clean oil, my old datsun is a example of this, the internals look as though they were machined yesterday after all these years.
@@Dat_Sun You should only use the T4, the T6 has a diff formula. I would pay 30 bucks a quart for it.
@@jamescox4823 T6 was jaso ma2. Might not be anymore.
I run a Scotts sub mount raises bars a little bit more. Im 6.2" works for me.
Dang it man, I’ve watched a few of these now and I keep waiting for an opinion that I disagree with so I can argue, but I tend to agree with everything so far 🤣😂
I heard Rotella has a ash in it
😂😂😂😂 That was Awesome!!!!
I agree with everything you said barber tubeless because I don't have to carry a tube just a pug kit and traction is better and I can run with a flat but the rest of what you said is piss funny🤣👍