Vitamix Wet Blade Assembly from Amzn affiliate - amzn.to/3BqiQJr Someone has pointed out that Ebay sells bearings and shaft seals (www.ebay.com/itm/284220125187?hash=item422cd6f003:g:MdIAAOSwV0VfpAdZ) as well as just the shaft seal alone (www.ebay.com/itm/284170470298?hash=item4229e1439a:g:ODAAAOSwNqNgGayw). Or you could just search for vitamix shaft seal. [I haven't tried them myself.] For bearings, the following should work well: amzn.to/3fLc88t However, any ABEC-7 or higher bearing that is 8x22x7mm should work well.
I bought the bearings from Amazon linked above and they did not work. The inner diameter was too big and they slid easily on and off the shaft. Suggest not linking to these specific bearings. I have a Vitamix 5000.
I just ordered an OEM Vitamix blade assembly on ebay for~$50. The first one I ordered was 18 bucks and was a poor copy at best, leaked, didn't thread properly...disaster, got my money back. Make sure its a genuine part. Having installed this part, now my beloved blender is quiet and doesn't leak = happy again. So, now I followed your lead and dissembled old blade assembly. The bearings are 608HRS, which means they are stainless and have a rubber seal. More importantly and something you failed to mention, is that there is a double lipped rubber seal above the bearings and under the stainless dome shaped metal that does all the work of keeping moisture out of the bearings. This is the failure point to the whole system. Its pretty pointless to replace the bearings if this seal is bad and lets moisture in again. I doubt Vitamix sells this seal separately. I was more than glad to spend 50 bucks and have my daily use blender back in use, otherwise Vitamix will sell you the entire pitcher with blade assembly for ~$130 + shipping. Good luck!
Thanks so much for making this video, this is the best one I've seen so far and I just finished replacing my bearings without a hitch. I never would have figured it out without this video.
*I had one of these before and it lasted many years and I used it a lot. It blends **MyBest.Kitchen** chops ,grates. Does most anything you would want to use it for. A lot of bang for your buck. A litlle loud however it so fast it is not bothersome.*
This video was really helpful. Some points for others to learn from... There is a (small black washer and a wave washer as videographer calls it) both fit between the two bearings. I kept getting the whole assembly stuck (not turning) when the 13mm nut is tightened... As indicated above, back the bearings back down the shaft to expose more of the shaft for the blade to attach onto. You want it backed out "just" enough for the shaft to stick through the oring seal... My first try at repositioning, I pushed the bearings too far down and while the blade spun super freely, I found out it leaked through the centre shaft seal. I then moved the bearings higher until the shaft just poked through... I tightened the washers and blade and aimed to get a little compression on the seal and bam... No more leaking. The blade spins but not freely... If I recall, this was how the original felt when first purchased. I will revert back if I find any issues. Hope this helps someone else.
Same issue here, mine is leaking thru the center shaft. I have to go back to my friends house to use his vice to push the bearings up higher on the shaft. Hopefully, I can get it right this time.
I dont seem to have small black washer and a wave washer (or maybe i misplaced them :( ) and i cant stop it leaking, does the wave washer apply preload to the seals perhaps? but it would still leak into the top seal od the bearing which would not be good ! did you use loctite?
Great video. Very clear and understandable even without knowledge of English. I changed the bearings on my Biolomix T5200. I couldn’t have done it without this video and probably would have ruined the new bearings or shaft because I wanted to hit it with a hammer. The old ones were pressed out very tightly and the new ones were pressed back in. I also used a vice, socket heads and a spark plug head. Walked literally millimeter by millimeter so that there was no distortion. The hammer is very rare and neat. Greetings from Russia. Thank you🤝
Thanks VERY much! I had an issue getting the bearings out of the main part, so took the small shaft and put it in boiling water (didn't have a torch handy) that expanded it just enough to push out the bearings. Thanks again for a fantastic very helpful video!
@@mmark300 Was working great, but had a little leak under the bearing, went to tighten the blade but noticed the bearings are seized now.....I assume the leak went through the bearings and they are now rusted in place. Wondering what I may have done wrong for it to leak? Will put in new bearings again, but want to make sure I don't have a leak this time. Any suggestions?? Thanks Mark! 👍👍
@carboatsguy5846 I failed to mention a small o-ring type washer on top of the top bearing. If your original was damaged others have used silicone there instead.
@@mmark300 Thanks Mark, I don't think mine was damaged, could I have had the blade on not tight enough maybe?I'll buy a new o ring, just to play it safe. Would you know what size it would be? If not, I'll take the old one and try to match it up. Thanks again!!
Thank you very helpful!! I got a blade from Amazon, it is inferior to the original blade, that is when I saw your post, skate bearings?!! Awesome! Now I’ll have a backup blade.
Your video saved me $75 repair. I had no problem twisting the piece off by hand that you supposedly need that dumb wrench for. My second bearing was basically metal rust mush fused to the inside of the housing so I used a screw driver bit slightly larger than the inner diameter of the bearing to press it out. I actually had some skate board bearings kicking around and was done in a couple of hours. Thank you so much for making this video!
Excellent video. Easy to follow and very complete. Gave me the confidence necessary to undertake the repair myself. Completed successfully. I found during disassembly that the shaft came out of the bearings easier than the bearings out of the housing, leaving the bearings stuck inside the housing. Had to do more than tap on them (more like beat them out) with a nail set through the upper opening in the housing, taking care not to damage the rubber gasket. Because the new bearings fit very tight in the housing, just as the old ones did, it took quite some pressure to press them into the housing and thus didn't require Loctite..
Great video! I ended up with the second bearing stuck inside and I had a punch just big enough so I didn't damage the rubber seal and it came out with a little tap. Thanks Mark! Dave
@@camibohn1017 you can find aftermarket replacement seals and repair kits online for about $10-15. Vitamix doesn't sell parts and even stopped selling the blade assembly separately from the container, so you the cheapest fix according to them is $150 lol. I had put mine together temporarily and pretty quickly saw that moisture leaks through the bearings which will certainly cause rust eventually. The next time I need to replace the bearings I will try a new replacement seal along with it.
An other vitamix repaired ! I followed the steps and it went well. But my bearings were seized as hell. Went through with my own method in order to get them out. Anyway thanks for the vid !
I have never heard of food grade grease so I doubt any of these bearings will have it. I also think it's not likely that bearing grease would go up into the container, especially during blending as it seems that it would be much higher pressure in the container as well as gravity working against it.
@@mmark300 That's a good point about the gravity and the pressure. I've heard of industrial food plants where grease or hydraulic fluid line leaks into the food. And this may not be possible but it would be interesting if they could design a plastic bearing that didn't use grease, but maybe it wouldn't be strong enough. I remember reading the article about bronze bearings but they said that the lead in those could leak out a little bit into the food over time.
Hola, primero de todo muchas gracias por tu gran trabajo. Me ha ayudado mucho. 🙏🏼 Te quiero hacer una consulta a ver si me pudieras ayudar. Estoy reparando el mismo caso que tú, y he de substituir los rodamientos, pero tengo duda de si hay que poner arandela entre ellos, y que tipo poner. Y después si es necesario poner ese adhesivo de loctite. Muchas gracias😊🙏🏼
¡Gracias! Si el tuyo no tuviera lavadora, entonces no le pondría una. Probablemente no necesites el loctite. Lo usé, pero no estoy 100% seguro de que sea necesario.
Thanks for this, it helped me a lot Your workshop looks some much like mine, thiugh a heck of a lot cleaner. We have the same vise and I also have a boat load of longboards.
i saw on another video the person mentioned there is a rubber o ring which is placed in a milled place and provides first point of seal to keep the liquid from leaking through the shaft hole and reaching the bearings. did you see that o ring when disassembling?
Awesome video I just had questions about the loctite that seams like a terrible idea lol have you changed the bearings since can they even be removed? Thanks
Thanks. I'm not positive about the loctite either and think I mentioned my uncertainty in the video... No, I haven't had to replace them since, but yeah, I hope I don't have too much of an issue when that day comes.
Thank you for the video. I have a question about a flat plastic washer that came off of my blade assembly. It looks to me like a moisture barrier so not vital to the blade housing....or is it? My wife noticed something black between the the housing and the blades. I pulled it off to ensure it wouldn't get blended next time we use the Vitamin. Any advise would be appreciated.
Exactly what i thought when my Bearings failed, because why else? unless after cleaning you leave your blender upside down with water in it..... anyway i think not at least inspecting or replacing it is a half a$$'ed fix & asking for trouble down the road. i just did my Jar & i didn't have a replacement so i oiled the Shaft then put Form A Gasket around both sides of the shaft seal, inserted the oiled Shaft(with bearings already on) in, then made the Form A Gasket neat. as always an example on why you should use your brain & not mindlessly follow tutorials.
brillant video thanks. is loctite really necessary? i dont seem to have the wavey washer not the small washer that goes in between the 2 bearings! i may have misplaced them or maybe they were there. i know, i pulled it apart and waited a few weeks while the bearings arrived lol
@@mmark300 thanks for your responce. mine is leaking throught the bearings. i have contacted some bearing places and they say the seals in the bearins are woter resistant not water proof. i have tried several times but its still leaking any ideas?
@KevsGuide There is a shaft seal that goes above the bearings. Mine was a like a fabric washer but I think they are rubber now. I have seen them on ebay. I have read others have used a bit of silicone sealant.
Same here. When I tightened the blade nut it wouldn't spin freely. Haven't messed with it again yet. So the solution is to push the bearings more toward the gear?
What brand/model #/dimension of bearings do I need? What is the best quality brand/model of bearings? I don't want to have to guess my way though a repair nor have bearings that fail after a few months.
Hi I'm trying to remove the gear, with 2 screw drivers, beating them with an hammer, no way to move it from the shaft. Did someone expirienced the same? Any help are super welcome. @teslamark great video.
Thanks! You could try some penetrating oil or try to heat the gear up with a small torch or lighter. Have to be VERY careful to not melt any of the rubber seals - should remove the blade assembly first.
@Tesla Mark Do the replacement blades come with the bearings installed? If so, I think I'd be better off just buying a replacement blade vs buying new bearings AND a vise lol. Definitely been wanting a vise, but God are they expensive.
They do sell replacement blade assemblies that come with bearings. And yes, much easier to replace than just the bearing, but also more expensive than just the bearings (a few dollars). And a real good vise is definitely expensive, but if you're looking for a basic homeowner vise, try Harbor Freight or facebook marketplace...
Hi Mark, My ball bearings were "fried". The inner diameter casing, the ball cage and balls of the upper bearing were all that was left when I disassembled. From your video I can see what the actual good bearings should look like and can see that the two outer metal bearing casings are "stuck" inside the threaded base. I am trying to tap them out with no luck...any ideas...I could tell they were stuck in there because when looking from the bottom opening of the base facing the blender, there appears to be the outer metal ring of the base and ring of metal "inside" it!!! and when I see and feel inside the metal base, the sides are not smooth to go against a smooth bearing surface, they are ridged when the bearings would have tracked inside them. The beginning of this repair started at my local hardware store that loosened the big nut on the bottom...at that point, we could see the upper ball bearing with exposed bearings and cage and the inner casing. The other inner casing was stuck to the shaft and that is when I realized...wow...the entire lower bearing was obliterated accept for the inner case stuck to the shaft! I had been loosing bearings here and there of that one...My local hardware store had me soaking the parts in WD40 to break up any rust and hardened sludge... BUT from your video, I can now see how there were actually two bearings stacked and unfortunately, the outside casings of them are stuck inside the base... I have put them in a vise and tapped down on them through the hole on the blade side of the base using a screwdriver tip and hammer against the thread-like lines inside the base but these outside pieces of the case still seemed fixed. Any ideas on how to free these outside walls of the bearing cases from the inside of the base??? Hoping to hear from you and/or others on this and in the meantime, back into the WD40 with more purposeful intention...:)
You are using a socket and vise to try to press the bearings and shaft out from the base? Aside from WD-40 or something like liquid wrench, the only other option would be heat, but there are some rubber parts in there that surely would melt... You may just have to buy a whole new blade assembly from Amazon at this point (next least expensive option).
I made this repair a few weeks ago and everything seemed to go smoothly. However, I ended up with a black plastic washier I don't know where it goes and a black gooey substance started seeping out onto the drive. Suggestions?
Yep, putting it back together like this will ensure it's sealed. Replacing the whole assembly is way easier than doing just the bearings, but also way more expensive...
I'm getting water leaking right through the center of the bearings. No water leaks between the large and small o-rings at the bottom of the container. Any ideas on what holds the water from going through the bearings, or what needs to be replaced?
I got the same problem at first. I guess the inside little seal through which the shaft passes through, the one just above the upper bearing (closed to the blade), isn't has tight as a new seal. Anyway, what I ended up doing, I put a little bit of silicon on the top of this upper bearing before to insert it into its position. With a toothpick I applied a thin trace of silicon on the top circumference of that bearing. I didn't want it to spread toward the moving center. Well! It worked. It isn't leaking anymore.
I am looking for the shaft seal. Any Ideas... I do not remove the gear I use a bearing extractor. A lot simpler. I recommend Loctite 620. 243 is a thread locker.
Thanks. Many have been looking for that seal, unsuccessfully... Mine was so ok so I reused it. You could try form a gasket by Permatex or someone else used some silicon.
Thank you for this video. When you say "skateboard wheel bearings", do you have a specific type? ABEC 5 or 7? Can it just be anything generic, as long as they're for skateboard or inline skates? I would guess bearings aren't made equal. You can buy really good quality bearings, and very cheap ones. I just wonder what the Vitamix OEM bearing quality is.
Thanks - Someone else recommended these bearings, but I have not personally tried them: Size: 608 2RS 8mm bore 22mm od 7mm wd or just order this: www.amazon.com/608-2RS-Precision-Shielded-Greased-Bearings/dp/B01L7P89RW/ref=pd_cp_328_1/135-4551291-5960504?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01L7P89RW&pd_rd_r=b4f299b5-7f79-4ae0-8866-31659257ca46&pd_rd_w=Y2iYH&pd_rd_wg=5ybrV&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=Q4BD8FE60S9DB7H0TQ8X&psc=1&refRID=Q4BD8FE60S9DB7H0TQ8X The ones I used were ABEC 7 and came with some wheels I had. I wouldn't use the cheapest nor would I buy the most expensive.
Thanks. But I only can take one bearing out by pressing. The second bearing is still sitting inside. Any recommendation how to take the second bearing out?
Maybe try to spray some liquid wrench type fluid in there and let it set in for a while and/or then try to tap it out using a punch, like I showed in the video, or a small screwdriver.
Yes, but one person did say that their cheap skateboard bearings had too large of an opening and spun around the shaft. I think the lesson is to not go too cheap on bearings.
Probably, but not sure if it's worth the cost. If you could find somewhere to buy just a couple of them it may be. Because it's a lot of work to change them out it's worth getting higher quality bearings for sure.
@@mmark300 I'm about to order some. Full ceramic 608 bearings are relatively cheap at $5-10 CAD on aliexpress, but complaints of slop are common in the feedback. I like the idea that they don't need lube, because mine goes in the dishwasher. My bearings are likely especially bad because I'm using a $40 kockoff polycarbonate mixing container with bearings that started to rust immediately, but otherwise flawless quality.
Anyone know? How did he know the bearings were the issue? Mine is 12 years old but everything looks good. I'm thinking this may be my issue in that I have to use my tamper a lot more often to get stuff moving around.
Mine was making some very bad noises. Turn the blades by hand - they should be very easy to move. And it's not difficult to take the blade assembly out and check the bottom bearing and whole assembly to see if there's any signs of a burnt bearing.
It's the 5200 from 2012, I think. Still like it overall. The only things I don't like are how noisy it is and that the pitcher eventually gets dirty and is difficult to clean without scratching
Excellent video. I don't understand the use of loctite on the outer shells of the bearings?? Nothing really likely to movie there. I would have used a very light coating of food safe grease or mineral oil, as well as on the bottom pressed on gear. Also, you neglected to show or mention the (imporiant) seal/O ring on top of the upper bearing.
Thanks. My seal/o-ring was still good, but if not, form-a-gasket may work. Someone else said they used some silicon. I was unable to find a replacement for that gasket and have never seen anything else like it before. Yeah, loctite may be overkill - i don't recall exactly why I decided to use it...
@@mmark300 thanks for your response! Sorry, I posted a link to some Amazon bearings in my reply to first comment . It’s the reply just above yours, and I’m wondering if these are the right bearings that I should buy? I’d really like to try and follow your video, but I’m new to all this!
@@felicityh.1947 Oh, I'm not seeing a link in your replies, but look for my pinned comment on some choices. Entire assemblies are also available if you're not so mechanically inclined.
@@felicityh.1947 No, these are only ABEC 1 or maybe ABEC 3. You should only use ABEC 7 or above. Otherwise they are sealed on both sides and are the correct size, 8x22x7mm.
Someone else recommended these bearings, but I have not personally tried them: 608 2RS 8mm bore 22mm od 7mm wd or just order this: www.amazon.com/608-2RS-Precision-Shielded-Greased-Bearings/dp/B01L7P89RW/ref=pd_cp_328_1/135-4551291-5960504?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01L7P89RW&pd_rd_r=b4f299b5-7f79-4ae0-8866-31659257ca46&pd_rd_w=Y2iYH&pd_rd_wg=5ybrV&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=Q4BD8FE60S9DB7H0TQ8X&psc=1&refRID=Q4BD8FE60S9DB7H0TQ8X I used some sealed ABEC 7 skateboard bearings that I already had. One person did say that their cheap skateboard bearings had too large of an opening and spun around the shaft. I think the lesson is to not go too cheap on bearings.
im replacing my bearings and if the sides of the bearing are that loose and there is (zero compression) the loctite might not work....a spinning bearing on the shaft or housing will junk the blade assembly. you wont even know if its spinning in the housing until its too late....it would be better to use a copper shim instead of the loctite...
Thanks so much for being clear and concise....I have a problem. When I try to press out the bearings, the shaft moves and the bearings stay put....any advice? Thanks!
If following my instructions, I'm not sure how the shaft could be moving. One end of the shaft would be against something pretty hard. If it's getting pushed into it while pressing, then it's too soft.
Mark Myers Well that’s your problem right there! You expect people to follow your directions! I forgot to but the shaft against something to keep it from moving… Oops! :-)
If you need more than just the bearings, maybe one of the washers or seals is shot, looks like you can get a kit with everything here: blendermart.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51
@@ukrainianday Called them today, Texas. I wanted to make sure as my pc was showing € currency.. thanks for the link. My assembly was completely shut, rusted and this will save me a bunch of money
Be advised that not all skateboard bearings are exactly the same inner (bore) diameter, despite claimed size. I bought the following on Amazon, and the shaft didn't fit tight in the bearings. The shaft could turn inside the bore of the bearings, and it would have ruined the shaft if I'd kept them in place. Mini Skater Skateboard Bearing 7x8x22mm ABEC 9 Precision 608 RS Scooter Longborad Bearings (16 Pcs Blue Silvery) They were cheap, and I got what I paid for.
Vitamix Wet Blade Assembly from Amzn affiliate - amzn.to/3BqiQJr
Someone has pointed out that Ebay sells bearings and shaft seals (www.ebay.com/itm/284220125187?hash=item422cd6f003:g:MdIAAOSwV0VfpAdZ) as well as just the shaft seal alone (www.ebay.com/itm/284170470298?hash=item4229e1439a:g:ODAAAOSwNqNgGayw). Or you could just search for vitamix shaft seal. [I haven't tried them myself.]
For bearings, the following should work well: amzn.to/3fLc88t
However, any ABEC-7 or higher bearing that is 8x22x7mm should work well.
I can't find seals for shaft
I bought the bearings from Amazon linked above and they did not work. The inner diameter was too big and they slid easily on and off the shaft. Suggest not linking to these specific bearings. I have a Vitamix 5000.
I just ordered an OEM Vitamix blade assembly on ebay for~$50. The first one I ordered was 18 bucks and was a poor copy at best, leaked, didn't thread properly...disaster, got my money back. Make sure its a genuine part. Having installed this part, now my beloved blender is quiet and doesn't leak = happy again. So, now I followed your lead and dissembled old blade assembly. The bearings are 608HRS, which means they are stainless and have a rubber seal. More importantly and something you failed to mention, is that there is a double lipped rubber seal above the bearings and under the stainless dome shaped metal that does all the work of keeping moisture out of the bearings. This is the failure point to the whole system. Its pretty pointless to replace the bearings if this seal is bad and lets moisture in again. I doubt Vitamix sells this seal separately. I was more than glad to spend 50 bucks and have my daily use blender back in use, otherwise Vitamix will sell you the entire pitcher with blade assembly for ~$130 + shipping. Good luck!
Thanks so much for making this video, this is the best one I've seen so far and I just finished replacing my bearings without a hitch. I never would have figured it out without this video.
*I had one of these before and it lasted many years and I used it a lot. It blends **MyBest.Kitchen** chops ,grates. Does most anything you would want to use it for. A lot of bang for your buck. A litlle loud however it so fast it is not bothersome.*
I agree and the noise level is probably the biggest downside.
Thanks so much. Doing this job soon myself. I really appreciate the effort to help our community with DIY videos like this.
Detailed and well presented. You have helped others develop their own “can-do” attitude.
Thank you!
@@keithiebaby100 Hey, thanks! And you're welcome.
This video was really helpful. Some points for others to learn from... There is a (small black washer and a wave washer as videographer calls it) both fit between the two bearings.
I kept getting the whole assembly stuck (not turning) when the 13mm nut is tightened... As indicated above, back the bearings back down the shaft to expose more of the shaft for the blade to attach onto.
You want it backed out "just" enough for the shaft to stick through the oring seal...
My first try at repositioning, I pushed the bearings too far down and while the blade spun super freely, I found out it leaked through the centre shaft seal.
I then moved the bearings higher until the shaft just poked through... I tightened the washers and blade and aimed to get a little compression on the seal and bam... No more leaking.
The blade spins but not freely... If I recall, this was how the original felt when first purchased.
I will revert back if I find any issues.
Hope this helps someone else.
Thanks for sharing your experience. And you remember correctly, the blade doesn't spin freely when new at all.
Same issue here, mine is leaking thru the center shaft. I have to go back to my friends house to use his vice to push the bearings up higher on the shaft. Hopefully, I can get it right this time.
did you get the leak to stop? @@Christopher_HotSauce i cant stop my leak
I dont seem to have small black washer and a wave washer (or maybe i misplaced them :( ) and i cant stop it leaking,
does the wave washer apply preload to the seals perhaps? but it would still leak into the top seal od the bearing which would not be good !
did you use loctite?
@KevsGuide I moved bearings down a little. But I still think it leaks a little. Just going to buy a new pitcher sometime.
So helpful. A very elegant implementation. Saved me $150.
Great video. Very clear and understandable even without knowledge of English.
I changed the bearings on my Biolomix T5200.
I couldn’t have done it without this video and probably would have ruined the new bearings or shaft because I wanted to hit it with a hammer.
The old ones were pressed out very tightly and the new ones were pressed back in. I also used a vice, socket heads and a spark plug head. Walked literally millimeter by millimeter so that there was no distortion.
The hammer is very rare and neat.
Greetings from Russia.
Thank you🤝
Thanks for watching and so glad I could help!
Thanks for sharing! My blender is new, but it's nice to know how to fix it yourself if ever needed when warranty expires
Thanks VERY much! I had an issue getting the bearings out of the main part, so took the small shaft and put it in boiling water (didn't have a torch handy) that expanded it just enough to push out the bearings. Thanks again for a fantastic very helpful video!
So glad to hear this, thanks!
Boiling water?! Haha, I'm not sure I would have thought to do that...
@@mmark300 Was working great, but had a little leak under the bearing, went to tighten the blade but noticed the bearings are seized now.....I assume the leak went through the bearings and they are now rusted in place. Wondering what I may have done wrong for it to leak? Will put in new bearings again, but want to make sure I don't have a leak this time. Any suggestions?? Thanks Mark! 👍👍
@carboatsguy5846 I failed to mention a small o-ring type washer on top of the top bearing. If your original was damaged others have used silicone there instead.
@@mmark300 Thanks Mark, I don't think mine was damaged, could I have had the blade on not tight enough maybe?I'll buy a new o ring, just to play it safe. Would you know what size it would be? If not, I'll take the old one and try to match it up. Thanks again!!
Thank you very helpful!! I got a blade from Amazon, it is inferior to the original blade, that is when I saw your post, skate bearings?!! Awesome! Now I’ll have a backup blade.
You saved me $60 on a new assembly. I already had skateboard bearings and just needed loctite. Much appreciated.
Thanks... just happen to have some new skateboard bearing and 30 mins. This saved me $$$.
Your video saved me $75 repair. I had no problem twisting the piece off by hand that you supposedly need that dumb wrench for. My second bearing was basically metal rust mush fused to the inside of the housing so I used a screw driver bit slightly larger than the inner diameter of the bearing to press it out. I actually had some skate board bearings kicking around and was done in a couple of hours. Thank you so much for making this video!
Nice!
Hello, I am from Iraq. I benefited a lot from this video by fixing my mixer, but without replaceing water seal !
Excellent instruction! You have a very soothing demeanor.
Loctite Blue also works...........did this repair years ago and it still works!
Thank you! This saves me a lot of time and figuring things out.
Excellent video. Easy to follow and very complete. Gave me the confidence necessary to undertake the repair myself. Completed successfully. I found during disassembly that the shaft came out of the bearings easier than the bearings out of the housing, leaving the bearings stuck inside the housing. Had to do more than tap on them (more like beat them out) with a nail set through the upper opening in the housing, taking care not to damage the rubber gasket. Because the new bearings fit very tight in the housing, just as the old ones did, it took quite some pressure to press them into the housing and thus didn't require Loctite..
Great to hear, thanks!
I've been reading about what must be lots of differences in original tolerances.
Great video! I ended up with the second bearing stuck inside and I had a punch just big enough so I didn't damage the rubber seal and it came out with a little tap. Thanks Mark! Dave
I had a stuck bearing too and I ruined my rubber seal, anyone got an idea where to get one?
@@thatpadraic any luck? Preparing if this happens to me.
@@camibohn1017 you can find aftermarket replacement seals and repair kits online for about $10-15. Vitamix doesn't sell parts and even stopped selling the blade assembly separately from the container, so you the cheapest fix according to them is $150 lol. I had put mine together temporarily and pretty quickly saw that moisture leaks through the bearings which will certainly cause rust eventually. The next time I need to replace the bearings I will try a new replacement seal along with it.
I was able to replace the bearings on my vita mix. Thanks so much!
Thank you. It s avalable for kitchenaid too
Thanks man! Just had a seizure on mine gonna replace. FWIW, I would use Loctite 640 Sleeve Retainer (green) for something like that.
An other vitamix repaired ! I followed the steps and it went well. But my bearings were seized as hell. Went through with my own method in order to get them out. Anyway thanks for the vid !
Thanks for watching and sharing!
Great vid. Tearing down our vitamix for a bearing replacement this week. 😊
Very useful thank you for taking the time to post. Much appreciated
Thanks a lot....
Great video....
From Brazil.
Era justo el video que necesitaba, muchas gracias
@@FranciscoRodriguez-uy2lo No problema!
It is a remarkable video thank you!
Saved me money. Great video!
Do the bearins contain food grade grease incase the seal/s break, will the grease go into the blender container and mix with the food?
I have never heard of food grade grease so I doubt any of these bearings will have it. I also think it's not likely that bearing grease would go up into the container, especially during blending as it seems that it would be much higher pressure in the container as well as gravity working against it.
@@mmark300 That's a good point about the gravity and the pressure. I've heard of industrial food plants where grease or hydraulic fluid line leaks into the food.
And this may not be possible but it would be interesting if they could design a plastic bearing that didn't use grease, but maybe it wouldn't be strong enough.
I remember reading the article about bronze bearings but they said that the lead in those could leak out a little bit into the food over time.
@@mmark300 It is common in machinery used for food prep
thanks for the video....it does help a lot.....your a great guy for posting this....
Thanks, easy rebuild of the old blade assembly.
Thanks, it is exactly the same on the knock offs like the Taurus Active Professional 1500W
Hola, primero de todo muchas gracias por tu gran trabajo. Me ha ayudado mucho. 🙏🏼
Te quiero hacer una consulta a ver si me pudieras ayudar. Estoy reparando el mismo caso que tú, y he de substituir los rodamientos, pero tengo duda de si hay que poner arandela entre ellos, y que tipo poner.
Y después si es necesario poner ese adhesivo de loctite.
Muchas gracias😊🙏🏼
¡Gracias!
Si el tuyo no tuviera lavadora, entonces no le pondría una.
Probablemente no necesites el loctite. Lo usé, pero no estoy 100% seguro de que sea necesario.
Thanks for this, it helped me a lot
Your workshop looks some much like mine, thiugh a heck of a lot cleaner. We have the same vise and I also have a boat load of longboards.
You're welcome!
My garage workshop has changed ALOT since this video - th-cam.com/video/bbiREwUxxzs/w-d-xo.html
Make sure to use a bearing with a spec to withstand the high rotation speed of a vitamix! Otherwise it might break fairly soon.
Yes, not worth buying the cheap bearings. I recommend at least ABEC 7 bearings.
Most excellent and useful!
Thank you so much. It work like a charm !
Very well done. Thank you!
Excelent video!!!
Good to know when I eventually need to replace mine. It's been going strong now for over twenty years!
Wow, how often do you use it? I was once or twice a day for a few years, then a little less for another few before I had issues.
@@mmark300 On average, I would say 3 or more times per week.
Mark Meyers... What issues did you have?
@mark
Thanks for the video!
Thank You!
i saw on another video the person mentioned there is a rubber o ring which is placed in a milled place and provides first point of seal to keep the liquid from leaking through the shaft hole and reaching the bearings. did you see that o ring when disassembling?
Awesome video I just had questions about the loctite that seams like a terrible idea lol
have you changed the bearings since can they even be removed?
Thanks
Thanks. I'm not positive about the loctite either and think I mentioned my uncertainty in the video... No, I haven't had to replace them since, but yeah, I hope I don't have too much of an issue when that day comes.
Thank you for the video. I have a question about a flat plastic washer that came off of my blade assembly. It looks to me like a moisture barrier so not vital to the blade housing....or is it? My wife noticed something black between the the housing and the blades. I pulled it off to ensure it wouldn't get blended next time we use the Vitamin. Any advise would be appreciated.
Proper adhesive should be Loctite 609 retaining compound. I guess thread locker works too..
You can hold the gear with a 9/16 12 point open end wrench to take off or remove the blade
Thank you!
Mission Accomplished.
Sweet!
Thank you so much. 😊
You're welcome 😊
Looks like the old bearings had smoothie ingress, I assume the shaft seal is worn?
Exactly what i thought when my Bearings failed, because why else? unless after cleaning you leave your blender upside down with water in it.....
anyway i think not at least inspecting or replacing it is a half a$$'ed fix & asking for trouble down the road. i just did my Jar & i didn't have a replacement so i oiled the Shaft then put Form A Gasket around both sides of the shaft seal, inserted the oiled Shaft(with bearings already on) in, then made the Form A Gasket neat.
as always an example on why you should use your brain & not mindlessly follow tutorials.
Could you explain what you did? I'm not following. So you DIDN'T replace your bearings?
Muchas grasias por su baliosa ayuda me ahorre S60 dls.
Saludos buen video, que tipo de baleros usaste para reemplazar los que ya no servían?
Thanks. I had some extra ABEC 7 skateboard bearings that I used. Nothing very special. From Amazon.
Question, do you know if the grease they use in the original bearings are food grade?
I am willing to bet they are
hmm... I didn't find any wave washer between the bearings.
brillant video thanks.
is loctite really necessary?
i dont seem to have the wavey washer not the small washer that goes in between the 2 bearings!
i may have misplaced them or maybe they were there. i know, i pulled it apart and waited a few weeks while the bearings arrived lol
Thanks!
I doubt the loctite is necessary. Not sure about that wavy washer though...
@@mmark300 thanks for your responce. mine is leaking throught the bearings. i have contacted some bearing places and they say the seals in the bearins are woter resistant not water proof.
i have tried several times but its still leaking
any ideas?
@KevsGuide There is a shaft seal that goes above the bearings. Mine was a like a fabric washer but I think they are rubber now. I have seen them on ebay. I have read others have used a bit of silicone sealant.
Thanks
Hi when I changed the bearings and put it back together it was very difficult to turn the blades. Any suggestions.
Thanks
I had the same issue at first. I had pushed the bearings too far towards the blades. I pushed them back and that fixed it.
Same here. When I tightened the blade nut it wouldn't spin freely. Haven't messed with it again yet. So the solution is to push the bearings more toward the gear?
What brand/model #/dimension of bearings do I need? What is the best quality brand/model of bearings? I don't want to have to guess my way though a repair nor have bearings that fail after a few months.
Thanks for watching!
Please read the pinned comment
Hi I'm trying to remove the gear, with 2 screw drivers, beating them with an hammer, no way to move it from the shaft. Did someone expirienced the same? Any help are super welcome. @teslamark great video.
Thanks! You could try some penetrating oil or try to heat the gear up with a small torch or lighter. Have to be VERY careful to not melt any of the rubber seals - should remove the blade assembly first.
what size bearings did you replace it with?
Thanks for watching.
Check my pinned comment (first comment) for more info.
@Tesla Mark Do the replacement blades come with the bearings installed? If so, I think I'd be better off just buying a replacement blade vs buying new bearings AND a vise lol. Definitely been wanting a vise, but God are they expensive.
They do sell replacement blade assemblies that come with bearings. And yes, much easier to replace than just the bearing, but also more expensive than just the bearings (a few dollars).
And a real good vise is definitely expensive, but if you're looking for a basic homeowner vise, try Harbor Freight or facebook marketplace...
There's a seal in there too, did you replace it?
No, luckily mine was ok because I'm not sure what kind of seal that is or what to get one...
@@mmark300 Yeah. I tried to do this once before and I couldn't source a replacement seal.
Hi Mark,
My ball bearings were "fried". The inner diameter casing, the ball cage and balls of the upper bearing were all that was left when I disassembled. From your video I can see what the actual good bearings should look like and can see that the two outer metal bearing casings are "stuck" inside the threaded base. I am trying to tap them out with no luck...any ideas...I could tell they were stuck in there because when looking from the bottom opening of the base facing the blender, there appears to be the outer metal ring of the base and ring of metal "inside" it!!! and when I see and feel inside the metal base, the sides are not smooth to go against a smooth bearing surface, they are ridged when the bearings would have tracked inside them.
The beginning of this repair started at my local hardware store that loosened the big nut on the bottom...at that point, we could see the upper ball bearing with exposed bearings and cage and the inner casing. The other inner casing was stuck to the shaft and that is when I realized...wow...the entire lower bearing was obliterated accept for the inner case stuck to the shaft! I had been loosing bearings here and there of that one...My local hardware store had me soaking the parts in WD40 to break up any rust and hardened sludge...
BUT from your video, I can now see how there were actually two bearings stacked and unfortunately, the outside casings of them are stuck inside the base...
I have put them in a vise and tapped down on them through the hole on the blade side of the base using a screwdriver tip and hammer against the thread-like lines inside the base but these outside pieces of the case still seemed fixed. Any ideas on how to free these outside walls of the bearing cases from the inside of the base???
Hoping to hear from you and/or others on this and in the meantime, back into the WD40 with more purposeful intention...:)
You are using a socket and vise to try to press the bearings and shaft out from the base?
Aside from WD-40 or something like liquid wrench, the only other option would be heat, but there are some rubber parts in there that surely would melt... You may just have to buy a whole new blade assembly from Amazon at this point (next least expensive option).
I made this repair a few weeks ago and everything seemed to go smoothly. However, I ended up with a black plastic washier I don't know where it goes and a black gooey substance started seeping out onto the drive. Suggestions?
Probably needs a shaft seal, which can be found on ebay.
is Loctite necessary?
No, I don't think so.
@@mmark300 thanks for the tips
Nice video. What size would the vice opening need to be? Some Vices are 60mm or 75mm, what would you recommend?
Thanks. I used a 4 inch (100mm) vise and with the method I used I'm not sure a 75mm would be big enough.
@@mmark300 Cheers, just the info I needed!
Are those aluminum jaws? On your vise?
No, they are not aluminum.
Thanks so much for the information bud. What is the bearing size?
They are standard skateboard bearings. I would just make sure they are sealed, which I think most are these days.
The bore is 8mm OD 22mm and height is 7mm
608-2RS and better to use proper one like SKF, NTN, ...
Vitamix wants to know your location
If I buy a whole new wet blade assembly and place it in as you took it apart should everything be sealed properly?
Yep, putting it back together like this will ensure it's sealed. Replacing the whole assembly is way easier than doing just the bearings, but also way more expensive...
I'm getting water leaking right through the center of the bearings. No water leaks between the large and small o-rings at the bottom of the container. Any ideas on what holds the water from going through the bearings, or what needs to be replaced?
I got the same problem at first. I guess the inside little seal through which the shaft passes through, the one just above the upper bearing (closed to the blade), isn't has tight as a new seal. Anyway, what I ended up doing, I put a little bit of silicon on the top of this upper bearing before to insert it into its position. With a toothpick I applied a thin trace of silicon on the top circumference of that bearing. I didn't want it to spread toward the moving center. Well! It worked. It isn't leaking anymore.
Most likely the shaft seal, which can now be found on ebay.
I am looking for the shaft seal. Any Ideas...
I do not remove the gear I use a bearing extractor. A lot simpler.
I recommend Loctite 620. 243 is a thread locker.
Thanks.
Many have been looking for that seal, unsuccessfully... Mine was so ok so I reused it. You could try form a gasket by Permatex or someone else used some silicon.
You can buy the seals on ebay.
Taking mine apart today. The top bearing is stuck in the housing. Didn’t budge when taking shaft out. Plan B I guess
Thank you for this video.
When you say "skateboard wheel bearings", do you have a specific type? ABEC 5 or 7? Can it just be anything generic, as long as they're for skateboard or inline skates?
I would guess bearings aren't made equal. You can buy really good quality bearings, and very cheap ones. I just wonder what the Vitamix OEM bearing quality is.
Thanks - Someone else recommended these bearings, but I have not personally tried them:
Size: 608 2RS 8mm bore 22mm od 7mm wd
or just order this: www.amazon.com/608-2RS-Precision-Shielded-Greased-Bearings/dp/B01L7P89RW/ref=pd_cp_328_1/135-4551291-5960504?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01L7P89RW&pd_rd_r=b4f299b5-7f79-4ae0-8866-31659257ca46&pd_rd_w=Y2iYH&pd_rd_wg=5ybrV&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=Q4BD8FE60S9DB7H0TQ8X&psc=1&refRID=Q4BD8FE60S9DB7H0TQ8X
The ones I used were ABEC 7 and came with some wheels I had. I wouldn't use the cheapest nor would I buy the most expensive.
@@mmark300 Thanks again. Great reverse engineering and work around. I knew this thing was possible to fix!
Yes bearing come in different grades..................Don't buy the really cheap Chinese bearings.
Thanks. But I only can take one bearing out by pressing. The second bearing is still sitting inside. Any recommendation how to take the second bearing out?
Maybe try to spray some liquid wrench type fluid in there and let it set in for a while and/or then try to tap it out using a punch, like I showed in the video, or a small screwdriver.
Great video. Do you think any Sealed skateboard wheel bearings will work?
Yes, but one person did say that their cheap skateboard bearings had too large of an opening and spun around the shaft. I think the lesson is to not go too cheap on bearings.
Would ceramic bearings be better here?
Probably, but not sure if it's worth the cost. If you could find somewhere to buy just a couple of them it may be. Because it's a lot of work to change them out it's worth getting higher quality bearings for sure.
@@mmark300 I'm about to order some. Full ceramic 608 bearings are relatively cheap at $5-10 CAD on aliexpress, but complaints of slop are common in the feedback. I like the idea that they don't need lube, because mine goes in the dishwasher. My bearings are likely especially bad because I'm using a $40 kockoff polycarbonate mixing container with bearings that started to rust immediately, but otherwise flawless quality.
Anyone know? How did he know the bearings were the issue? Mine is 12 years old but everything looks good. I'm thinking this may be my issue in that I have to use my tamper a lot more often to get stuff moving around.
Mine was making some very bad noises. Turn the blades by hand - they should be very easy to move. And it's not difficult to take the blade assembly out and check the bottom bearing and whole assembly to see if there's any signs of a burnt bearing.
Thanks so much
I was able to do this but shaft doesn't stay in the bearings. It moves up and down. Might need to add locktite on the shaft also.
You may want to try other bearings. Someone else commented the same. Some bearings are out of spec, I believe.
What is the model of bearing you take
You should be able to use the following: amzn.to/3fLc88t
However, any ABEC-7 or higher bearing that is 8x22x7mm should work well.
What model blender are you using? Is it an older unit? I'm thinking older = better quality. Curious to know how you like it.
It's the 5200 from 2012, I think. Still like it overall. The only things I don't like are how noisy it is and that the pitcher eventually gets dirty and is difficult to clean without scratching
Excellent video. I don't understand the use of loctite on the outer shells of the bearings?? Nothing really likely to movie there. I would have used a very light coating of food safe grease or mineral oil, as well as on the bottom pressed on gear. Also, you neglected to show or mention the (imporiant) seal/O ring on top of the upper bearing.
Thanks. My seal/o-ring was still good, but if not, form-a-gasket may work. Someone else said they used some silicon. I was unable to find a replacement for that gasket and have never seen anything else like it before.
Yeah, loctite may be overkill - i don't recall exactly why I decided to use it...
Could you tell me whether these would work? I also have a 5200 with a 64oz container I'm trying to fix.
Whether what would work? I'm not sure what you're asking
@@mmark300 thanks for your response!
Sorry, I posted a link to some Amazon bearings in my reply to first comment . It’s the reply just above yours, and I’m wondering if these are the right bearings that I should buy? I’d really like to try and follow your video, but I’m new to all this!
@@felicityh.1947 Oh, I'm not seeing a link in your replies, but look for my pinned comment on some choices. Entire assemblies are also available if you're not so mechanically inclined.
@@felicityh.1947 No, these are only ABEC 1 or maybe ABEC 3. You should only use ABEC 7 or above. Otherwise they are sealed on both sides and are the correct size, 8x22x7mm.
@@mmark300 Thank you, that’s SO helpful!! I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my comment, it means a lot! ☺️
Did you replace the seal? They are a bit of an odd one, trying to track it down.
No, luckily I didn't need to. You may want to try form-a-gasket by Permatex if you're not able to find a seal.
You can get a rebuild kit from Blender Mart.
Do you have more information about the bearings? Number or something else?
Someone else recommended these bearings, but I have not personally tried them: 608 2RS 8mm bore 22mm od 7mm wd or just order this: www.amazon.com/608-2RS-Precision-Shielded-Greased-Bearings/dp/B01L7P89RW/ref=pd_cp_328_1/135-4551291-5960504?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01L7P89RW&pd_rd_r=b4f299b5-7f79-4ae0-8866-31659257ca46&pd_rd_w=Y2iYH&pd_rd_wg=5ybrV&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=Q4BD8FE60S9DB7H0TQ8X&psc=1&refRID=Q4BD8FE60S9DB7H0TQ8X
I used some sealed ABEC 7 skateboard bearings that I already had. One person did say that their cheap skateboard bearings had too large of an opening and spun around the shaft. I think the lesson is to not go too cheap on bearings.
No one else has added the loctite 243 - confused as to why required?
they make a lot of different bearings, which ones exactly?
I just ordered a decent set of sealed skateboard bearings from Amazon. Not the cheapest and not the most expensive.
Alright that's cool, they all seem to be similar.. I have an old blade assembly I can try to take apart.
What brand of bearing was in the Vitamix
Blender before you replaced it - if you recall?
Sorry, I didn't look.
No name bearings. They say China on them. Will use fidget spinner bearing until I can mail order some sealed bearings.
what are the size spec of the bearings? (outside diameter, inside diameter and thickness)
Skf 608 2Z
Hello, please! I have a vitamix model:vm0178 and I want to repair but I don't know how to open it.help me please!
im replacing my bearings and if the sides of the bearing are that loose and there is (zero compression) the loctite might not work....a spinning bearing on the shaft or housing will junk the blade assembly. you wont even know if its spinning in the housing until its too late....it would be better to use a copper shim instead of the loctite...
unless its held by side pressure from the assembly itself...in which you don't need the loctite or the shim...;)
Thanks so much for being clear and concise....I have a problem. When I try to press out the bearings, the shaft moves and the bearings stay put....any advice? Thanks!
If following my instructions, I'm not sure how the shaft could be moving. One end of the shaft would be against something pretty hard. If it's getting pushed into it while pressing, then it's too soft.
Mark Myers Well that’s your problem right there! You expect people to follow your directions! I forgot to but the shaft against something to keep it from moving… Oops! :-)
If you need more than just the bearings, maybe one of the washers or seals is shot, looks like you can get a kit with everything here: blendermart.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51
Oh sure, take the easy way out... Haha
where do you ship from?
@@mauriziobussolino2115 I don't sell the bearings myself. Contact the Blender Mart people, and they should be able to answer your question.
@@ukrainianday
Called them today, Texas. I wanted to make sure as my pc was showing € currency.. thanks for the link. My assembly was completely shut, rusted and this will save me a bunch of money
Blendermart.com great suggestion
Be advised that not all skateboard bearings are exactly the same inner (bore) diameter, despite claimed size. I bought the following on Amazon, and the shaft didn't fit tight in the bearings. The shaft could turn inside the bore of the bearings, and it would have ruined the shaft if I'd kept them in place. Mini Skater Skateboard Bearing 7x8x22mm ABEC 9 Precision 608 RS Scooter Longborad Bearings (16 Pcs Blue Silvery) They were cheap, and I got what I paid for.
Use a 608 2rld (peer bearing!)
where can i buy the ball bearing roller bearing?
Anywhere they sell skateboard bearings.
vitamix sells a tool to get that black thing off, so it should be tighter than hand tight.