Great Lesson. Length of time should have no bearing when teaching or learning a subject, you have no wasted "fill". I enjoy the way you teach, I fully understand the subject when you are done. Once again, thank you for making these video's.
Great demo for students about speed sensors. I am a diesel mechanic instructor and I was wondering if you would be willing to share the 3d printer files you used to build your simulator. It looks like something I would love to make for my class.
So on a typical ABS controller, are both frequency and amplitude taken separately into consideration when calculating wheel speed, or is the net voltage output the factor to decide on a passive wheel speed sensor? The reason I ask is because on a car I'm building, I'm running a larger rear wheel and want to retain ABS. I plan to alter the tone wheel to fool the front wheels into being "slower". If it's just overall voltage and not frequency, I could just add a spacer to the sensor to get my desired result (I think).
It's primarily the frequency that's looked at. Amplitude only plays a factor with regards to signal strength at slower vehicle speeds for passive sensors; the generated voltage from the sensor at slow vehicle speeds is low to where the module has difficulty detecting the wheel speeds when the vehicle is below a certain mph. Active sensors fix those issues where wheel speed has no effect on the amplitude of the signal. Either way, the frequency is the main thing on what's looked at for both style sensors. As far as trying to fool the module by running a larger wheel, adding a spacer to the sensor won't do anything except cause a drop out in the signal. The amount of teeth on the tone / reluctor wheel corresponds with how many pulses are generated per 1 revolution of the wheel. For example, a tone wheel with 32 teeth will generate 32 voltage pulses / cycles per 1 revolution of the wheel. If the wheel is moving slower, then the module detects that because of the lower amount of pulses detected at the sensor. You would have to make a custom tone wheel with more teeth to compensate for the slower wheel speeds, but keep in mind that the spacing, teeth profile, size, etc. all play a factor in how the signal is interpreted. A lot of testing would have to be done to ensure it's operating properly, and I'm just talking about to ensure your vehicle can actually drive without getting weird ABS activation issues, let alone the system actually working correctly when you get into a potential loss of control condition where you need ABS to work reliably and safely. I personally wouldn't feel comfortable doing that on my vehicle, let alone a customer's.
@@TimmaethBoy I appreciate the reply, and that's exactly what I was expecting it to be. My options were attempt to keep it, or bypass ABS all together. It's a track based car so I'm not too concerned about deleting it. I'll just have to make do with less nannys.
Great Lesson. Length of time should have no bearing when teaching or learning a subject, you have no wasted "fill".
I enjoy the way you teach, I fully understand the subject when you are done. Once again, thank you for making these video's.
Appreciate the kind words James. This definitely isn't for everyone, but I'm glad you're seeing the value.
Great video and demonstration
Thanks!
Great demo for students about speed sensors. I am a diesel mechanic instructor and I was wondering if you would be willing to share the 3d printer files you used to build your simulator. It looks like something I would love to make for my class.
So on a typical ABS controller, are both frequency and amplitude taken separately into consideration when calculating wheel speed, or is the net voltage output the factor to decide on a passive wheel speed sensor?
The reason I ask is because on a car I'm building, I'm running a larger rear wheel and want to retain ABS. I plan to alter the tone wheel to fool the front wheels into being "slower". If it's just overall voltage and not frequency, I could just add a spacer to the sensor to get my desired result (I think).
It's primarily the frequency that's looked at. Amplitude only plays a factor with regards to signal strength at slower vehicle speeds for passive sensors; the generated voltage from the sensor at slow vehicle speeds is low to where the module has difficulty detecting the wheel speeds when the vehicle is below a certain mph. Active sensors fix those issues where wheel speed has no effect on the amplitude of the signal. Either way, the frequency is the main thing on what's looked at for both style sensors.
As far as trying to fool the module by running a larger wheel, adding a spacer to the sensor won't do anything except cause a drop out in the signal. The amount of teeth on the tone / reluctor wheel corresponds with how many pulses are generated per 1 revolution of the wheel. For example, a tone wheel with 32 teeth will generate 32 voltage pulses / cycles per 1 revolution of the wheel. If the wheel is moving slower, then the module detects that because of the lower amount of pulses detected at the sensor.
You would have to make a custom tone wheel with more teeth to compensate for the slower wheel speeds, but keep in mind that the spacing, teeth profile, size, etc. all play a factor in how the signal is interpreted. A lot of testing would have to be done to ensure it's operating properly, and I'm just talking about to ensure your vehicle can actually drive without getting weird ABS activation issues, let alone the system actually working correctly when you get into a potential loss of control condition where you need ABS to work reliably and safely. I personally wouldn't feel comfortable doing that on my vehicle, let alone a customer's.
@@TimmaethBoy I appreciate the reply, and that's exactly what I was expecting it to be. My options were attempt to keep it, or bypass ABS all together. It's a track based car so I'm not too concerned about deleting it. I'll just have to make do with less nannys.
Helpful
Thanks!