Voigtländer COLOR SKOPAR 18mm F2.8 aspherical X-Mount - First Impressions
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- 2 weeks ago I unboxed this 18mm lens for Fujifilm and since then I've put it through its paces. I have some initial thoughts on the Voigtländer Color Skopar 18mm f2.8 lens for Fujifilm. If it's too long and you don't want to watch it, I like it. I like it a lot.
Direct link to the lens:
www.voigtlaender.de/lenses/x-...
Direct link to #alpakagear 1.6L Go Sling Nano
alpakagear.com/products/go-sl...
CHAPTERS:
00:00 - Introduction
00:33 - My Lens Lineup for the X-Pro3
01:37 - Why I Don't Mind F2.8
02:05 - Build Quality
02:36 - Focus Ring
03:34 - Focus Ring Tab is Hard to Find
04:09 - 365 Project and EDC
05:20 - Sample Images and My Struggle with 28mm
08:40 - Feedback From Lens to Camera
08:58 - Wrap Up
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I got mine two weeks ago and love it. For crowded cities like NY, it's great for street and subway. Now, I'm eyeing the 27mm for the sheer compactness.
Yes, perfect for street photography. Just waiting for the dang snow to stop so I can start doing that again! I already have the Fujifilm 27mm and I like it, so I am skipping that one. But I do like my Vogtlander 23mm a lot.
I have the 27mm Ultron and love it…small and light. A bit of a learning curve with pure manual lenses but I love that aspect of it. Focus peaking helps!
The thing is about wide lenses is that you can shoot with slow shutterspeed. Which made them good at lower light and Apsc.
It’s amazing how a focal length can make you feel like a beginner again. I’m pretty good with the Viltrox 13mm and I love 23mm on APSC, but 18mm is a middle ground I have trouble with. Hopefully I will get better!
@@ChrisFreitag Yeah, way easyer to use and get great results. Many underestimate how important good exposures are and how fast it punish with artifacts and motion blur, when the ISO is to high or shutter to slow. Never forget shutterspeed>focal lenght x 2FF x 1.5APSC. Yet exposure are still vital to get a pro none artifact image.
Meaning overexposure a bit or use LISO for better exposures.
Wider lenses are the solution to this or
dont go out on cloudy days to shoot for the same reason. The best keeper images are done on good light.
I have a Fuji 18 1.4, and I fell in love with the focal length so much that I got a Ricoh GR III as the second camera... I would like to use a Voigtlander lens one day, but it's probably going to be the 23 mm lens, because I don't have that focal length but it's a bit less wild than the 18 (28).
I also have the 23mm f1.2 by Voigtlander and it is one of my favorite lenses. I really like that 35mm focal distance.
It's indeed a surprising lens. Moreover, with the Digital Teleconverter feature on the XT-5 body, it becomes possible to achieve a field of view similar to a 27mm lens, making it easy to do street photography with just one lens.
Indeed. Even further if you digital tele convert to 2x
Great video thanks! I'm genuinely keen on this one. For streets you mentioned in one of the comments on zone focusing to 1m-2m. What other setting would you put if you don't mind me asking. I'm looking to get to small form factor ( have a 16-55 but that's a brick! ) so am thinking of getting the 27mm definitely. And maybe this one :)
1st part: I also keep my aperture at F8. Sometimes I'll go to F4 or F5.6 but I typically do F8 when zone focusing. I have an auto ISO setting to that goes to max 400 if it's bright out, then I have another auto ISO setting that maxes out at 1600 if I'm in shadows of buildings on the street. I have the auto-ISO setting programmed on a back-side button for easy reach.
2nd part: the Fujifilm XF27mmR WR has been an absolute joy to use. So if you're not sure about manual shooting, I can recommend it as it will be night/day compared to the 16-55 as far as weight. But if you're looking to get into manual focusing, I have the 23mm and now 18mm Voigtlander lenses and I like them a lot.
@@ChrisFreitag thank you this is very helpful! I do want to challenge myself on manual and actually VL 27 f2 looks gorgeous :) so I'd probably try this for that one. I do have 35f2. So what I want to probably get is: 27f2 voigtlander ( or xf 27 f2.8, have to see in the shop I think ) and then either xf 23f2 or the 18mm ( its probably an overkill and I'd realistically have to get just 1 of these ). I feel if I get 27f2 as manual, I'd keep the other as AF.
@anshulkamra8355 Yeah, having that XF 27 is great when I want to go all auto mode.
I just said “I recognize that gas station from Glass” :) didn’t realize you had a YT channel as well :)
THAT is awesome 😀
It's a beautiful lens. Yes, it was expensive, but worth every penny. If you like Fujifilm Cameras and you want a more analogue experience with a (near) 28mm equivalent lens, it's a no brainer. Save your pennies and buy it. Thanks for sharing this video. Much appreciate your insights 😉
I’m finding very reliable focus depth, meaning I’m getting very comfortable setting my depth and then just aiming my camera toward a subject and getting it in focus without having to look through the OVF/EVF. Really starting to like what I’m getting from this lens.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Does it work with the OVF?
Yes it does! I probably should have said that. Yes, the OVF does show the outline, I just don't use it that often so forgot to mention it.
Inf.-1m is where I want to have finite focus on 18mm aps-c. Typically 2.5m is the sweet spot, because @ f4.5 you have 2.5-5m focus and @ f6.3 2.5-inf. in focus. I'd love to be able to get right there quickly and easily, but there's no telling where it would be in that tiny space between. So close Voightlander.
Looks nice if you're doing close up portraits and don't mind distortion though.
I’m not even sure you could get to 2.5m! Even in the EVF where you can judge to 5 and 10m, the digital blue bar moves fast in those spots with the tiniest movement.
1-2m is good for street photos. Haven’t done much portrait work. Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisFreitag I'd hope it was a little more precise to manually focus a manual focus lens than the by wire EVF. Otherwise there isn't much advantage to it. 🤷♂️
@@-greyexactly my thoughts and makes me reconsider this
Thanks for the overview. Have you tired this with the X-H2? I am wondering if the lens will resolve the the 40mp. I am planning to pick up the X-T50 as an edc camera and put this lens on it.... Cheers!
Greg
I haven’t tried any of my manual lenses on the X-H2 but I did use the Voigtlander 23mm on the X-T5 and thought the images were good. But I wasn’t looking for any degradation because of the 40mp. I will say this though, my beloved XF35mmF1.4 R lens doesn’t resolve the 40mp sensor according to Fujifilm but the images look great to me, so I don’t know what to make of those claims.
@@ChrisFreitag Well, I just cancelled my X100VI order (3 months on b/o) and preordered the X-T50. I hope it's not another 3 months wait. I figured with a lens like the 18mm Voigtlander (or even the XF 16mm f/2.8 R WR Lens) I can get a similar size camera to carry everyday and I'll have the option to use my other XF lenses as well... Keep up the great work!
@GregAllen2 I can HIGHLY recommend the XF27mmF2.8 R WR for that camera. Unsung hero of my kit, I always carry it when I want to make my camera’s footprint smaller and the images are excellent.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. 28mm on full frame feels very differently. Your dog would appear a lot closer. 18mm on APS-C is an entire different 'animal'. :-)
Interesting, thank you. I'll have to look into that.
Is infinity right at the hard stop or do you need to pull back a little?
Good question! It’s a hard stop, unlike the Voigtlander 23mm F1.2
Take a month to work on layering scenes with that focal length. You'll soon be a wide angle street addict. Cheers!
Thank you! That’s the plan 😀
Fujifilm should make an AF version of this lens !
They make an F2 version! Although not as pancaked.
I might have missed this but is this lens weather sealed?
No it isn’t. And it does have moving parts water could get into. Of course, I still use it when it’s raining.
I don't understand why people buy new manual lenses especially around the 28mm,30mm even 50mm f1.8, there are plenty of sharp vintage glass out there and so cheap instead of paying hundreds of pounds save your money for that really special lens that you want.
I can’t speak for all people but manual is new-ish to me. I started with manual, analog photography in the early 90s but have been digital and auto since the early 00s.
I’m going with a brand I know, and I like the connectors on the lens, to give me the data on what my settings were on the shot. Maybe as I get better, I will know what I’m looking for with vintage glass. Right now, vintage lenses seem like a vast realm of unknown options to me.
What vintage lens is there out there that you can convert to a 28mm equivalent on an APSC sensor?
Wide vintage lenses are not cheap, and the optics are less developed than modern designs. The glass used at time was also in general of lesser optic transparent quality.
@@alhOOO2O Actually you can't do that with this lens either. This 18mm is actually a 27mm equivalent...not 28mm.
Frankly the images do not blow up my skirt! You need to have another 18mm to compare it against it. There's no point when so many channels just review a lens and say x, y, z and everyone runs out and buys the lens without knowing what is it measurably better than or worse than, or what are the characteristics of the lens. Edge to edge and corner to corner sharpness is what all modern lenses do, so how does this lens differentiate itself from others? Is it by not having auto focus.
I actually prefer the vintage look where edges are softer and the center is softer and more flattering to faces. I also like vignetting for its effect too as it compliments an image. But nowadays they want everything sharp from edge to edge and corner to corner and they don't even realize why they want this.
You should get the Fuji 18mm and compare the two - then you'll also get more views and likes.
That would be a review, and I plan on doing that,but this is just my first impressions. I also mentioned that the photos might not be weak because of the lens, it could be because of my technique, not being comfortable with the 28mm focal length.