I just got a 1973 Evinrude 25hp that sat in a garage for 2+ years, and I'm trying to do the same thing to get this motor unseized. Plus this thing had some rodent living in it so I'm giving this thing a serious cleaning and restoration. Thanks
Hope it works out man. I think first figure out which way the flywheel spins, lubricate the cylinders and with with some elbow grease and a wrench on that flywheel you should free it up. Hopefully the rodents didn’t chew any wires haha
One thing i would recommend is using mixed 2stroke gas in a squirt bottle or spray bottle instead of starting fluid if trying to test fire any 2 stroke motor starting fluid can wash away any oil that is in the motor but otherwise good job
Good work buddy! Those are pretty nice engines, even though they do have a few bad engineering flaws. You might want to soak those pistons some more with the PB blaster/carbon cleaner/tuner, just in case the rings get a bit rusted in place while the water lay inside. Change the gear lube frequently and watch out for overheating issues. Make sure that shifter continues to work freely. If not, you may end up with clutch dog issues/gear jumping due to partial engagement caused by that jammed shifter. There are two little gears under a plastic cover that can be accessed if you remove both lower pans, sometimes those gears need to be removed and lubed.
This video is fire 🔥 Are you going to take it out and test it? I have a 12 foot jon boat with a Yamaha 4hp or mariner 9.9 depending on the setting. Keep up the good work
Great job on the evinrude. We all start somewhere. I bought a pos 1973 25hp evinrude for $30 just for hands on experience. Btw check out kodibass he's good Chris from OHIO
Question for you, so the 3/4 nut that you wiggled back and forth isn't that the nut that holds down the flywheel? If you put a lot of force on that won't that just tighten the flywheel down further, or loosen the nut? In my case that nut is loose and I can take it off so not sure how I can work the flywheel back and forth to free it up.
You've got the WRONG gear oil in that bad boy. Outboards use HYPOID oil which is unique to lower units. If the seals are bad the oil will mix (and the stuff you put in won't) with the water and still lubricate...when you check the oil at the end of the season, the lube will NOW be white. That tells you that you have one or more bad seals. Oil still looks good, seals are then good. A lower unit with bad seals can let enough water in to expand and freeze in winter if you live in colder climate area. If the lower unit freezes, you are in for a new lower unit as it can break the housing by hydrolic action. (don't ask how I know that). Otherwise good analysis and you have found a good sideline business. OH, and buy a muff for the lower unit testing...pails and garbage cans or red neck.
I have a similar motor, but its a '96 8.8hp. My shifter won't shift. its stuck in forward and the pullstart won't move. my question is, is the pullstart NOT supposed to move unless its in neutral?
Had a Johnson similar year, yours might have a plastic neutral safety switch on the flywheel that only allows you to pull the flywheel in neutral. I took the safety switch off mine you can see if yours has one then you can see if it pulls over in forward or if it’s seized up. If it’s stuck in forward it’s likely an issue with your shift rods in the lower unit. There’s a brass coupler holding the 2 shift rods with a screw holding the rods in position. Sometimes the screw rattles loose or gets out of adjustment. If your motors been sitting awhile it may just require a lot of force to shift into neutral
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
I just got a 1973 Evinrude 25hp that sat in a garage for 2+ years, and I'm trying to do the same thing to get this motor unseized. Plus this thing had some rodent living in it so I'm giving this thing a serious cleaning and restoration. Thanks
Hope it works out man. I think first figure out which way the flywheel spins, lubricate the cylinders and with with some elbow grease and a wrench on that flywheel you should free it up. Hopefully the rodents didn’t chew any wires haha
I've got the same motor im going to work on Chris from OHIO
One thing i would recommend is using mixed 2stroke gas in a squirt bottle or spray bottle instead of starting fluid if trying to test fire any 2 stroke motor starting fluid can wash away any oil that is in the motor but otherwise good job
Good work buddy! Those are pretty nice engines, even though they do have a few bad engineering flaws. You might want to soak those pistons some more with the PB blaster/carbon cleaner/tuner, just in case the rings get a bit rusted in place while the water lay inside. Change the gear lube frequently and watch out for overheating issues. Make sure that shifter continues to work freely. If not, you may end up with clutch dog issues/gear jumping due to partial engagement caused by that jammed shifter. There are two little gears under a plastic cover that can be accessed if you remove both lower pans, sometimes those gears need to be removed and lubed.
Very Good Video!!!
My 1974 Johnson 9.9 hp doesn't start this Season, I wish we were Neighbors : )
I would buy that Motor you just fixed!
Great job you revive that motor it sounds good
@@jakeroth5809 thanks man!
Good job young man
nice
Great video keep up the good work
Thanks dude!
Great Job!
This video is fire 🔥 Are you going to take it out and test it? I have a 12 foot jon boat with a Yamaha 4hp or mariner 9.9 depending on the setting. Keep up the good work
Thanks man! Ya I want to test it on my boat and see how it runs on the river
Nice vid! Do you do repairs on the side? I have an old Johnson 20 likely from the 60's.
Great job on the evinrude. We all start somewhere. I bought a pos 1973 25hp evinrude for $30 just for hands on experience. Btw check out kodibass he's good Chris from OHIO
Question for you, so the 3/4 nut that you wiggled back and forth isn't that the nut that holds down the flywheel? If you put a lot of force on that won't that just tighten the flywheel down further, or loosen the nut? In my case that nut is loose and I can take it off so not sure how I can work the flywheel back and forth to free it up.
You've got the WRONG gear oil in that bad boy. Outboards use HYPOID oil which is unique to lower units. If the seals are bad the oil will mix (and the stuff you put in won't) with the water and still lubricate...when you check the oil at the end of the season, the lube will NOW be white. That tells you that you have one or more bad seals. Oil still looks good, seals are then good. A lower unit with bad seals can let enough water in to expand and freeze in winter if you live in colder climate area. If the lower unit freezes, you are in for a new lower unit as it can break the housing by hydrolic action. (don't ask how I know that).
Otherwise good analysis and you have found a good sideline business. OH, and buy a muff for the lower unit testing...pails and garbage cans or red neck.
I have a similar motor, but its a '96 8.8hp. My shifter won't shift. its stuck in forward and the pullstart won't move. my question is, is the pullstart NOT supposed to move unless its in neutral?
Had a Johnson similar year, yours might have a plastic neutral safety switch on the flywheel that only allows you to pull the flywheel in neutral. I took the safety switch off mine you can see if yours has one then you can see if it pulls over in forward or if it’s seized up. If it’s stuck in forward it’s likely an issue with your shift rods in the lower unit. There’s a brass coupler holding the 2 shift rods with a screw holding the rods in position. Sometimes the screw rattles loose or gets out of adjustment. If your motors been sitting awhile it may just require a lot of force to shift into neutral
So its safe to squirt that PB blaster inside the cylinder like you did? Thanks
Yes it lubricates the cylinders since the motor hasn’t ran in awhile
Great video btw check out kodibass he's good