I worked in a machine shop, granted it's been 30 years, but I never saw a block flash rust in 5 minutes, and all we had back then were iron blocks. Clean it with compressed water, pressure washer is fine, we used hot water compressed, then follow with shop compressed air, 125+ PSI is preferable, then the WD40 in every hole and on all surfaces.
@@2carpros I mentioned the WD-40 at the end of my reply. No chances taken. But your machined surfaces are not going to flash rust in the 5 minutes it takes to blow the surfaces dry. I would not put WD-40 on an object with standing water on it.
Thanks for these videos man I am going to refresh mine in the vehicle. I have a question, instead of trying to wiggle out and replace the rockers one by one, can I just unbolt the cam and change them out and bolt it back on? Or is there a certain process I need to do or should I just leave it on and do them one by one?
I put ATF behind the bearings, it will not spin a bearing. There is 40-60ftlbs of force holding that bearing in place. Bearings spin due to heat created by friction between the crank journal and bearing.
It will spin eventually. Oil behind a bearing will make a hydraulic lockup giving you a false 46-60ftlbs of torque, and that's why they spin. Also, there's no need for lubrication between a bearing and its sitting surface.
End play check with a tap? Use a pry bar dude! Gosh this engine will probably do fine because it was running before you took it apart but man I'm guessing there was at least 3 more thousandths there.
They are on the way! I'm currently waiting on Ford to send my warranty camshaft phaser. My new one was broken out of the box. So that's neat. I promise more videos are coming. Thanks for watching!
It would be tough to line them up so the side bolts can go through. But if you did it that way and it worked for you and everything is torqued down right, I'd say you are good. Thanks for watching!
Had question I have an 08 f150 with bad thrust washer the crank endplay is alot I replaced thrust washers in place with engine in and it was easy bit problem is the endplay is still bad what would cause that ?
If the crank is worn down so much that even thicker thrust bearings will not compensate, it must be replaced. Some shops can spray weld more metal onto the crank but these engines are so common that it's not cost effective to take this route. Just find a servicable used crank and have it checked.
Gosh so many things. Clearance is measured DRY. Using plastigauge with half of the bearing shell lubed will give you an incorrect figure. Better to not use plastigauge at all, get the proper measuring instruments and torque down the mains without the crankshaft in there at all, then measure the crank. Subtract the crank width from the top to bottom clearance of the bearing shells and there is your clearance. If you have to use Plastigauge, put it in there with the shells completely dry and don't move the crank at all. And torque to spec to get your clearance reading. Using an old torque to yield bolt is also wrong. But anyway. I am glad to see the inside of a 5.4 3V because I work in tech these days, not building motors, but yeah there are multiple things wrong here.
My dad has a 2v and 3v the 2v has 318,000 miles. And the 3v was rebuilt apparently by the guy who he bought from and it has 80,000 miles on the engine and 210,000 miles on the truck had a lot of issues but the truck is pretty nice
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SO happy the series is back!
Me too! Thanks for watching!
I worked in a machine shop, granted it's been 30 years, but I never saw a block flash rust in 5 minutes, and all we had back then were iron blocks. Clean it with compressed water, pressure washer is fine, we used hot water compressed, then follow with shop compressed air, 125+ PSI is preferable, then the WD40 in every hole and on all surfaces.
I would never take a chance with a fresh machined surface. WD40 all the way! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I mentioned the WD-40 at the end of my reply. No chances taken. But your machined surfaces are not going to flash rust in the 5 minutes it takes to blow the surfaces dry. I would not put WD-40 on an object with standing water on it.
Wow… that machine shop did a beautiful job!
They really did! Even painted it for me! Thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot everything came out great just like yours
Thanks for these videos man I am going to refresh mine in the vehicle. I have a question, instead of trying to wiggle out and replace the rockers one by one, can I just unbolt the cam and change them out and bolt it back on? Or is there a certain process I need to do or should I just leave it on and do them one by one?
Thank you for this series
Thank you so much for watching and being a member!
Good to know have a 2007 5.4 liter f-150.
Great! Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU
I put ATF behind the bearings, it will not spin a bearing. There is 40-60ftlbs of force holding that bearing in place. Bearings spin due to heat created by friction between the crank journal and bearing.
It will spin eventually. Oil behind a bearing will make a hydraulic lockup giving you a false 46-60ftlbs of torque, and that's why they spin. Also, there's no need for lubrication between a bearing and its sitting surface.
@@wallycastro3 I guess Jay with Real St. has no idea what hes doing then.
End play check with a tap? Use a pry bar dude! Gosh this engine will probably do fine because it was running before you took it apart but man I'm guessing there was at least 3 more thousandths there.
Videos after part 5 of the triton 3v build? 6 on?? Great 1-5 very easy to listen to. Ty
They are on the way! I'm currently waiting on Ford to send my warranty camshaft phaser. My new one was broken out of the box. So that's neat. I promise more videos are coming. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros broken out of tje box? Unreal. Don't understand how that's possible
@@danielsmithingell9806 UPS wasnt careful with the box. It does happen.
So I purchased a Workbench book on this engine, they say torque down the main cap bolts, then hammer in the dowel pins. Have I just messed up?
It would be tough to line them up so the side bolts can go through. But if you did it that way and it worked for you and everything is torqued down right, I'd say you are good. Thanks for watching!
I don't want a motorcycle I got a 5-4 tighten 2001 is it worth rebuilding get the
Had question I have an 08 f150 with bad thrust washer the crank endplay is alot I replaced thrust washers in place with engine in and it was easy bit problem is the endplay is still bad what would cause that ?
If the crank is worn down so much that even thicker thrust bearings will not compensate, it must be replaced. Some shops can spray weld more metal onto the crank but these engines are so common that it's not cost effective to take this route. Just find a servicable used crank and have it checked.
With the ARP mains, did you have to get the block align honed?
You should probably either way to be honest. Thanks for watching!
Do you rebuild motors for customers.
Not usually, it ends up being so much more than anyone wants to pay. Thanks for watching!
Gosh so many things. Clearance is measured DRY. Using plastigauge with half of the bearing shell lubed will give you an incorrect figure. Better to not use plastigauge at all, get the proper measuring instruments and torque down the mains without the crankshaft in there at all, then measure the crank. Subtract the crank width from the top to bottom clearance of the bearing shells and there is your clearance.
If you have to use Plastigauge, put it in there with the shells completely dry and don't move the crank at all. And torque to spec to get your clearance reading. Using an old torque to yield bolt is also wrong. But anyway. I am glad to see the inside of a 5.4 3V because I work in tech these days, not building motors, but yeah there are multiple things wrong here.
im missing a part 3
It is in the playlist. Found here th-cam.com/play/PLe3kz1i_LrtWx_LPRSNutXYhgTZcke2qY.html Thanks for watching!
Yes u did not have to pay for parts thats nice
You would be Great at teaching 2nd & 3rd graders how to build a motor and blow away the fuzzies
Mkay thanks for watching
5.3? That engine is ford not an LS
Love the videos
Must have tried combining 5.4 and 3v in my brain XD
Thanks for watching!
My dad has a 2v and 3v the 2v has 318,000 miles. And the 3v was rebuilt apparently by the guy who he bought from and it has 80,000 miles on the engine and 210,000 miles on the truck had a lot of issues but the truck is pretty nice
You said 5.3l in beginning lol
Bummer! Oh well I meant 5.4L lol thanks for watching!
I used gas in a spray bottle to clean my 5.7 out of machine
All different ways to do it. I just don't like using gas because it is dangerous. Thanks for watching!