Bought identical kit and have had in use for two years on a naturally aspirated Chevy. Has worked flawlessly. Very impressed with it considering the aeromotive piece it copies costs 175.00 or more, the diaphragm even interchanges.
That is a great review Shane. When you took the diaphragm apart it was curled at the edges. I wonder if it was perfectly flat at first. The curling may come from some incompatibility with the fuel. It is extremely common on Chinese cheapies. They build the exterior to look fantastic and robust but on the inside there is a component which is "designed" to fail and ensure the owner has to replace it after the warranty period. If the diaphragm is replaced with a proper one, it will last for decades! Manufacturing items where one component is designed to fail has been widely adopted by some famous household western brands . If the item comes with a full replacement guarantee, the odds are that it is programmed to fail after warranty period. The companies order 10-20% more stock and use it to replace the few that fail within warranty. No need for servicing department and parts inventory, just replace the crap item with another crap item that will keep the customer happy for another short while. Now you've had this for 2 years. It would be interesting to see the inside diaphragm. Did you swap the diaphragm with an Aeromotive one? ? The cost is very convenient and warrants the search for a good quality diaphragm replacement. The gauge is ESSENTIAL on a regulator. Fuel pressure should be on all consoles. It seems that the diaphgram could be replaced by a kit for a an Aeromotive 13101, 13109, 13151, 13159, 13114 FPR. This kit costs nearly as much as the whole regulator, but it is probably well worth it
Three ports, none of them identified, no instructions and I had to read fifty comments before I found out the plumbing instructions. BTW, what I got out of all this was as you are looking at the gauge with regulator adj. pointing up is: inlet on the right, out to engine on left and the bottom one is return to tank. You would have thought in seven and a half minutes that would have been mentioned first.
Yo is the bottom of the regulator return? Mine came with 0 instructions. I can’t figure out which is feed, flow and return. Or if it even matters. Also did you have to use washers? Mine came with washers but AN fittings shouldn’t need washers to seal. That’s the whole point of AN lines. Idk what the washers are for
I see this was 4 yrs ago? Is it adjustable & have a return line as well?? I've never had to buy one before but I want one that is adjustable, to use with a carb, & has a fuel return. But I dont know if they have them like that? From what I've seen, $35 is a steal!!
you plumbed to boost? it seems that would push down on the membrane/piston and restrict fuel flow? vacuum would seem to provide a lift function? i must be misunderstanding
I have a 454 in a 85 montecarlo toped with a 750 holly doubble pumper carb running 6an braided lines and a 300gph fule pump in stock tank with a fule injection style 58psi fule reg. Before the engine that will reg. Down to it's lowest setting at 58psi. From there I run a holly fule reg. That regulates to 4.5 to 12psi. My problem is with both regulators in place I still get 58psi with both regulators screw cranked all the way out. I am wondering if I have a bad holly regulator. What's your thoughts on this? The holly fule reg. Said on the instructions that if running a hi psi pump to run 2 regulators as I did. Mind you, I paid 80bucks for the holly one off ebay and they go for 280 to 30p or more retail for a pro fule regulator. What are your thoughts on this??
i have the same one. after awhile the vacuum reference line started letting fuel through into the manifold. first i was running rich, then i was having trouble regulating the fuel pressure(imagine that) then one day i put the key in the ignition and checked my phone for less than 5 mins ( fuel pump running, vehicle off) i went to start and had hydro lock. lucky i didnt have any permanent damage but all of my fueling issues went away when i replaced it with a name brand. i was only out the $35 for the part, countless hours tuning trying to figure out the inconsistent fueling issues over the time i was using it and and all the seals i had to replace while diagnosing other parts looking for what could be causing my fueling issues
@@marcowilliams4801 for a turbo yes, absolutely required. you could try to modify you ecu map to compensate but it would be an uphill battle, because as boost pressure rises in the cylinder the fuel pressure needs to rise to match the base pressure. fuel delivery will be greatly effected with out the vacuum reference from the motor. cheers .
Noticed the gauge is liquid filled. Recommend fitting a short length of vac tubing vented to atmosphere, so you're not forever chasing your tail on bogus pressure readings caused by fluid pressure deforming or even breaking the gauge's very delicate movement.
Great video! Quick question, why is one side the inlet and the other an outlet? Can’t both left and right be return lines to support a parallel setup? I thought a fuel line from the tank doesn’t need to go to a fuel pressure regulator but rather to the rails directly and then the return feed from the rails goes to the regulator. Thanks
I've seen them set up both ways, you can use what he's calling the fuel in and fuel out to rail, as both fuel ins from the backs of the rails. They both work his is just set up different
I bought one similar to this one to install on a volkswagen type 4 bus is Weber 34 ICT dual carbs and wondering what do you do with that smaller what looks like a vacuum port?
Shane , what's the difference on a 'rising rate" 1:1 ratio fpr compared to just a regular fpr? I was told a rising rate fpr is alright for an almost stock, n/a engine. Should I get one that is like the one you tested here? Mine doesn't adjust with an Allen key.
Did you notice how long it takes for fuel pressure to drop to 0 after shutting car off? I have this style regulator on my DSM and as soon as I shut the car or pump off, pressure goes from 43 psi to 0 right away. ON some forums im reading that the cause is that seat for the ball in the center. One guy machined it much smoother and says it holds pressure for a few HOURS. When I took mine apart, the seat looked jagged and even had some paint on parts of it.
That’s due to a lack of a check valve in your fuel system. Aftermarket regulators are not designed to hold pressure after the car is shut off. You would need to add an inline check valve between your fuel pump and regulator in order to hold rail pressure after the pump is shut off.
Reading this back I see what you’re saying. If your system has a check valve and still isn’t holding pressure, it could be bleeding past the ball and seat. My system never ran a check valve so it never would have held pressure after shutting down anyways.
@@Shane_Whalley yeah. My diaphragm ended up tearing and i had to replace the regulator with another one of the same type. Now the fuel pressure remains in the rail for quite some time:
I did a review in basically the same regulator over a year ago and then just did a one year follow up a couple months ago. The regulator is definitely solid and the braided line is usable, but the fittings are crap. Very easy to feel they’re made out of really thin and light aluminum compared to the name brand fittings or even the cheap summit racing fittings. I’d upgrade the fittings before they give out brother. Just my 2 cents.
The fittings that came with this one were not bad at all. Honestly better than summit racing brand. Surprisingly much better than the last cheap regulator I bought. I couldn’t use the line or fittings that came with the last one.
Maybe they’ve stepped up quality in the last year or so. I’ll most likely be getting another one for my Corvette project soon so I’ll try the seller you got yours from next time. 👍🏻
Hey dude, quick question and please excuse my ignorance... You mentioned a vacuum connection, is this turbo related? Can these be fitted to a non turbo engine and if so, where would you connect the vacuum? I'm looking to get better throttle response from my mk4 golf /rabbit 1.6 efi... Any suggestions?
Alex Alleyne he has a dead head system going on. Fuel pump to regulator regulator to rail bottom part of regulator to return. On JZ set ups I think it’s better to run fuel pump to fuel rail, fuel rail to regulator, regulator back to tank. Best way to not starve your engine.
Hey I was wondering if this could work on any car with a fuel regulator? My fuel regulator is gone bad and was wondering if I should just buy an aftermarket one like this or would it pointless for someone not running boost?
Do you think that this spring kit work in this regulator? If so I could use this regulator on a Big Block Chevy, carbed engine, with a Walbrough 450 fuel pump. Then when I go LS just change the spring. Thanks Eric Universal Bypass Regulator Spring Kit $17.23 P/N 13701 Spring Kit for Universal Bypass Regulator Includes both High Pressure and Low Pressure Springs Fits only Aeromotive Regulators including the following: P/N 13301 and P/N 13351.
Great review bro! I did a ton of research before I bought mine and barely found any info, so I just went for it. One thing that i'd like to point out is that the inlet, outlet, and return ports seem to have been threaded too large for the fittings. you have to use a crap ton of Teflon tape to make a good solid confident fit. I also discovered that the inlet and outlet threads are -6an, (.... well, close to -6an) so if you decide to swap out the fittings, that's what you need. It took me a while to figure out because it's not listed anywhere, and I wanted to run a -8an supply line without attaching a million different adapters to it.
Hey there! I have a cheap aftermarket fuel regulator that looks similar to that one you have and I was wondering if I could attach a pressure gauge to it and if so, how would I go about it! It’s on a v8 engine. Thanks in advance!
There should be a 1/8” npt port in the front of the regulator that a gauge will thread into. If not you can run one in line on the fuel rail side with an adapter fitting. Hope this helps 👍
Always run the vacuum line. You want to keep your pressure difference between the injectors and the intake the same through vacuum or boost. Otherwise say your pulling -10psi vacuum at 45psi fuel pressure, your pressure differential is now 55psi instead of your target 45 if you had the vacuum line hooked up. You want to set pressure with no vacuum line hooked up vented to atmosphere, then hook up the line. Hope this helps.
Shane Whalley not really sure that came out right, at idle you have more vacuum which would in turn return more gas to the tank and less to the injectors and then when you hit the gas and loss vacuum the regulator would become stronger and return less gas for a non boosted engine
@@americanman911 when the regulator becomes stronger due to a loss of manifold vacuum at high throttle openings, it raises the fuel pressure in the system, that gadget Shane Whalley has added goes into the return line to the tank from the system. When there is high vacuum without his regulator the pressure differential across the injector goes up and more fuel is injected, when a rising rate Regulator is fitted the vacuum line senses this, spring is pulled back and pressure in system goes down/less fuel which is what you want. He explains this earlier
This is from Aeromotive FAQ: 6. What is the barb fitting in the regulator cap used for? How and where should it be connected if I use it, and what should be done with it if I don’t? All Aeromotive, carburetor bypass regulators incorporate the necessary design to allow the regulated fuel pressure to be vacuum or boost referenced, on a 1:1 ratio. For “blow through carb”, forced induction applications, where a turbo or centrifugal supercharger pressurizes the carburetor through a hat or in an enclosure, the regulator boost port should reference to positive pressure only, not vacuum. connect the port to the carburetor box or hat, not the intake manifold. For carbureted, naturally aspirated engines, and for roots supercharged engines where the blower draws through the carburetor, the vacuum/boost reference port should be LEFT OPEN TO ATMOSPHERER, never plugged.
I guess the fittings are metric. Because the rest of the world is metric and Asia too where this FPR is made. Or in the other US Source, Mexico is metric too. Rgds from the precise metric heaven Germany.
So an increased manifold pressure of +10 PSI resulted in a fuel pressure increase of 12 PSI. That's not enough. Yes, your computer will attempt to compensate in closed loop to fix this (up to 25% before throwing an engine code). However, in open loop, you will be lean! A 10 PSI increase in fuel pressure will require a fuel flow increase of 66%! (This is assuming that normal operation takes place at 14.7 PSI (atmospheric pressure at sea-level). To get that increase, your fuel pressure would have to rise by about 100%. Or about 100 PSI since you started at 50PSI. The fuel pressure relationship for flow across an orifice is 1/square root of two (or 0.707). Which means that your increased fuel pressure here is 12/50 * .707 = .17 (or 17%). You are not even in the BALL PARK! Pretty risky to say the least. Hopefully your computer doesn't go open loop often. The only thing you proved is that this regulator is ideal for blowing up your engine! You need larger injectors (larger diameter orifice) as well as this woefully inadequate FPR to compensate. Chemical Engineer.
@@Shane_Whalley Ya man iv been doing that for yrs like with the type s BOV or hks and the waste gates, lot of the body's are the same so just order good inners !!
@@802Garage Ya man cause all those parts are just stolen designs from someone else and sold cheaper just like clutches,lsd packs,gates,bov,coilovers,dizzys you name it !!! So ill buy a cheap one and just order a rebuild kit from summit or where ever. Turbos the same just buy ebay turbo and order a exspentive bearing pack from garret or where ever, you would surprised how much you can save on a budget build !!!!
I expect a lot, especially when the piece gets made in the same factory as the aeromotive that we've been being charged 174-250 for for 20 years. So much of performance parts are 1000% markup and more. If they can sell it cheaper great. Not like aeromotive is producing it in north America and supporting the manufacturing sector, they find the cheapest supplier that meets their quality control specs and have them shipped in by the crate, probably spot check them, put in their box after they screen print a logo on it and charge you 250-350 and spend money on advertising to convince you it is higher quality than it actually is. Most learn how marketing like this works by the time they get into the 10th grade, maybe you didn't? Don't get me wrong, a lot of the imported stuff is junk, but a lot of it is good stuff, this happens to be a good piece, if you choose to pay 300% more for it there's about a 95% chance it's being sourced from the same vendor as this well priced decent kit. The world is changing my friend.
Buy the identical aeromotive regulator for 175-250 and lay it on a bench next to this. They are a very good copy of a well known and widely used design. The springs and diaphragm is available through jegs, summit and interchange with this or aeromotive. This is a case of aeromotive and others overcharging for something for decades, and when someone charges a Fair price people assume it's junk. It's a good part, take the time to open and clean, look for defects. Even if you are buying the expensive regulator you're doing that anyway right? If not you should be. Half of the time it's made in the same factory that aeromotive and others use to have their parts produced. If you want to give them their 1000-1500 % markup please do so, but it will not guarantee a superior part.
Update: I have been running this regulator for just over a year now without any issues. Seems to be working perfectly still.
Shane Whalley i had mine for about 7 months and just had it break yesterday.
Thank you. Can you advise the Aeromotive diaphragm part no suitable for use in this regulator? My original was damaged on arrival. Thanks
So who made it? Part #?
@@w41duvernay imposible to have a part number, its a generic part, you will never find the original manufacturer
Is it by pass?
Just bought a 20$ regulator. This video makes me feel better about my choice.
Bought identical kit and have had in use for two years on a naturally aspirated Chevy. Has worked flawlessly. Very impressed with it considering the aeromotive piece it copies costs 175.00 or more, the diaphragm even interchanges.
Thanks Shane yr a very big help to a lot of people who can't afford the brand name parts
That is a great review Shane. When you took the diaphragm apart it was curled at the edges. I wonder if it was perfectly flat at first. The curling may come from some incompatibility with the fuel. It is extremely common on Chinese cheapies. They build the exterior to look fantastic and robust but on the inside there is a component which is "designed" to fail and ensure the owner has to replace it after the warranty period. If the diaphragm is replaced with a proper one, it will last for decades! Manufacturing items where one component is designed to fail has been widely adopted by some famous household western brands . If the item comes with a full replacement guarantee, the odds are that it is programmed to fail after warranty period. The companies order 10-20% more stock and use it to replace the few that fail within warranty. No need for servicing department and parts inventory, just replace the crap item with another crap item that will keep the customer happy for another short while.
Now you've had this for 2 years. It would be interesting to see the inside diaphragm. Did you swap the diaphragm with an Aeromotive one? ? The cost is very convenient and warrants the search for a good quality diaphragm replacement. The gauge is ESSENTIAL on a regulator. Fuel pressure should be on all consoles.
It seems that the diaphgram could be replaced by a kit for a an Aeromotive 13101, 13109, 13151, 13159, 13114 FPR. This kit costs nearly as much as the whole regulator, but it is probably well worth it
Three ports, none of them identified, no instructions and I had to read fifty comments before I found out the plumbing instructions. BTW, what I got out of all this was as you are looking at the gauge with regulator adj. pointing up is: inlet on the right, out to engine on left and the bottom one is return to tank. You would have thought in seven and a half minutes that would have been mentioned first.
Yo is the bottom of the regulator return? Mine came with 0 instructions. I can’t figure out which is feed, flow and return. Or if it even matters.
Also did you have to use washers? Mine came with washers but AN fittings shouldn’t need washers to seal. That’s the whole point of AN lines. Idk what the washers are for
I see this was 4 yrs ago? Is it adjustable & have a return line as well?? I've never had to buy one before but I want one that is adjustable, to use with a carb, & has a fuel return. But I dont know if they have them like that? From what I've seen, $35 is a steal!!
you plumbed to boost? it seems that would push down on the membrane/piston and restrict fuel flow? vacuum would seem to provide a lift function? i must be misunderstanding
I have a 454 in a 85 montecarlo toped with a 750 holly doubble pumper carb running 6an braided lines and a 300gph fule pump in stock tank with a fule injection style 58psi fule reg. Before the engine that will reg. Down to it's lowest setting at 58psi. From there I run a holly fule reg. That regulates to 4.5 to 12psi. My problem is with both regulators in place I still get 58psi with both regulators screw cranked all the way out. I am wondering if I have a bad holly regulator. What's your thoughts on this? The holly fule reg. Said on the instructions that if running a hi psi pump to run 2 regulators as I did. Mind you, I paid 80bucks for the holly one off ebay and they go for 280 to 30p or more retail for a pro fule regulator. What are your thoughts on this??
i have the same one. after awhile the vacuum reference line started letting fuel through into the manifold. first i was running rich, then i was having trouble regulating the fuel pressure(imagine that) then one day i put the key in the ignition and checked my phone for less than 5 mins ( fuel pump running, vehicle off) i went to start and had hydro lock. lucky i didnt have any permanent damage but all of my fueling issues went away when i replaced it with a name brand.
i was only out the $35 for the part, countless hours tuning trying to figure out the inconsistent fueling issues over the time i was using it and and all the seals i had to replace while diagnosing other parts looking for what could be causing my fueling issues
Question because I just bought one for my turbo car. Is it necessary to run the vacuum reference or can I just run constant 58?
@@marcowilliams4801 for a turbo yes, absolutely required. you could try to modify you ecu map to compensate but it would be an uphill battle, because as boost pressure rises in the cylinder the fuel pressure needs to rise to match the base pressure. fuel delivery will be greatly effected with out the vacuum reference from the motor. cheers .
@@mikeis300 ok thank you for the info
Congrats, you wasted 300 bucks when all you needed was a new diaphragm.
I was lookin for a review on one of these cuz im putting one in my 1j swapped supra also. Def found the right reviewer.
#suprafam
Great review. Glad you disassembled it. Hope it lasts!
get one for that imprezza v10 lol
@@sidewaysaudi5677 Already have one very similar! Looking at using an all in one regulator/filter instead though. Actually what Dodge used originally.
@@802Garage Keep up the good work, I see your vidios all over tik tok.
Noticed the gauge is liquid filled. Recommend fitting a short length of vac tubing vented to atmosphere, so you're not forever chasing your tail on bogus pressure readings caused by fluid pressure deforming or even breaking the gauge's very delicate movement.
Great video! Quick question, why is one side the inlet and the other an outlet? Can’t both left and right be return lines to support a parallel setup? I thought a fuel line from the tank doesn’t need to go to a fuel pressure regulator but rather to the rails directly and then the return feed from the rails goes to the regulator. Thanks
I've seen them set up both ways, you can use what he's calling the fuel in and fuel out to rail, as both fuel ins from the backs of the rails. They both work his is just set up different
Great video. Is factory car using a return system?
Yes
I thought factory is returnless?
i have a bypass12-887 i have a vacumm port outlet on it do that line have to be hook up
Great review, my diaphragm is leaking fuel out the vaccum port I’m going to buy aeromotive rebuild kit 👍
I got one of these but i cant get any fuel pressure on a honda. Cant figure it out works fine with the stock one
Can you block the bottom port and use the two side ports as a feed to the rail?
Is the return line the only one regulated or all three?
I bought one similar to this one to install on a volkswagen type 4 bus is Weber 34 ICT dual carbs and wondering what do you do with that smaller what looks like a vacuum port?
Shane , what's the difference on a 'rising rate" 1:1 ratio fpr compared to just a regular fpr? I was told a rising rate fpr is alright for an almost stock, n/a engine. Should I get one that is like the one you tested here? Mine doesn't adjust with an Allen key.
Did you notice how long it takes for fuel pressure to drop to 0 after shutting car off? I have this style regulator on my DSM and as soon as I shut the car or pump off, pressure goes from 43 psi to 0 right away. ON some forums im reading that the cause is that seat for the ball in the center. One guy machined it much smoother and says it holds pressure for a few HOURS.
When I took mine apart, the seat looked jagged and even had some paint on parts of it.
That’s due to a lack of a check valve in your fuel system. Aftermarket regulators are not designed to hold pressure after the car is shut off. You would need to add an inline check valve between your fuel pump and regulator in order to hold rail pressure after the pump is shut off.
Reading this back I see what you’re saying. If your system has a check valve and still isn’t holding pressure, it could be bleeding past the ball and seat. My system never ran a check valve so it never would have held pressure after shutting down anyways.
@@Shane_Whalley yeah. My diaphragm ended up tearing and i had to replace the regulator with another one of the same type. Now the fuel pressure remains in the rail for quite some time:
I have a question so does tightening it cause the pressure to rise ?
Can I block off the return because I have a return less L's intake
Shane Whalley how is it now after 2 years? i am adding injection my 2 stroke trabant :D
I though AN is a metric size?
i have h22 engine what is the correct psi for fuel pressure?
Look er up
Why waste a TH-camrs time when you can Google it yourself? Lazy.
Yeap but what about performance? Or How long it will last? If u put it ón a 4cyl stock engine with some upgrades?
I did a review in basically the same regulator over a year ago and then just did a one year follow up a couple months ago. The regulator is definitely solid and the braided line is usable, but the fittings are crap. Very easy to feel they’re made out of really thin and light aluminum compared to the name brand fittings or even the cheap summit racing fittings. I’d upgrade the fittings before they give out brother. Just my 2 cents.
The fittings that came with this one were not bad at all. Honestly better than summit racing brand. Surprisingly much better than the last cheap regulator I bought. I couldn’t use the line or fittings that came with the last one.
Maybe they’ve stepped up quality in the last year or so. I’ll most likely be getting another one for my Corvette project soon so I’ll try the seller you got yours from next time. 👍🏻
What is the air nozzle for on the side
Hey dude, quick question and please excuse my ignorance... You mentioned a vacuum connection, is this turbo related? Can these be fitted to a non turbo engine and if so, where would you connect the vacuum? I'm looking to get better throttle response from my mk4 golf /rabbit 1.6 efi... Any suggestions?
Works for non turbo as well. Can’t really offer much advice on those cars though. Not to familiar with them.
Just use your stock vacuum hose from the stock regulator, buy some 1/8 vacuum hose to relocate.
@@jakelowang4132 if you don't have a stock vacuum hose where would you T it at?
@@marcowilliams4801 Normally u use the vacuum hose from the stock regulator.
Adjustable wrenches for the win 🙌
Thanks Shane, great tear down,
what size fpr fittings?
Hey mate did the fuel rail adapter in the kit fit the fuel rail well
So how did it work? Do you have the other video?
Still on the car being daily driven.
Is it still holding up?
Great video 👍 quick question I’m looking for one but I need it to be for EFI AND HAVE 40-60psi? How’s has it held up? Thank you!!
Been holding up great so far.
Will work for EFI as well. The supra I have it on runs around the same fuel pressure between vacuum and full boost.
Is the brand epman
Is that a return style or bypass pressure regulator? Also does it go down to low pressure for carb applications?
Return style.
That’s pretty decent idk how it would work on a high hp car but for a modest build I think it would work.
My buddy uses them on 600 to 900 hp boosted LS builds, he loves them.
@@Sgt.Slides foreal I’m planning in buying one and not spend $300 on aeromotive
These aeromotive style regulators are supposed to operate 30-70PSI… looks decent
I have a question
How did you run your fuel lines to the frp?
Fuel pump.. inlet to fpr... outlet from fpr to fuel rail ?
Alex Alleyne he has a dead head system going on. Fuel pump to regulator regulator to rail bottom part of regulator to return. On JZ set ups I think it’s better to run fuel pump to fuel rail, fuel rail to regulator, regulator back to tank. Best way to not starve your engine.
Anthony Housein
My fuel return line was pinched so the fuel wasn’t returning to the tank but all sorted now
Sorry to bother, great video. Can I get the inlet an exit the wrong way round. If so, how do you know?
Side ports are inlet/exit if used as a pass through regulator. Bottom fitting is return to the tank.
Any chance we get the link for this part?
Hey I was wondering if this could work on any car with a fuel regulator? My fuel regulator is gone bad and was wondering if I should just buy an aftermarket one like this or would it pointless for someone not running boost?
Do it
You said the lowest was 30 PSI so would it be able to use this on a carbureted application
Nope, would need a softer spring installed in it.
Mine has psi & mp whats mp mean?
Metric tools are the go....
Got a link
Thank you very much. This is a very good video and review. Good work and I appreciate it.
Do you think that this spring kit work in this regulator? If so I could use this regulator on a Big Block Chevy, carbed engine, with a Walbrough 450 fuel pump. Then when I go LS just change the spring.
Thanks
Eric
Universal Bypass Regulator Spring Kit
$17.23
P/N 13701 Spring Kit for Universal Bypass Regulator
Includes both High Pressure and Low Pressure Springs
Fits only Aeromotive Regulators including the following: P/N 13301 and P/N 13351.
EZElk i changed the spring inside so it flows freely when the screw isnt engaged to the spring, and im gonna use it on my 454 chevy big block
Great review bro! I did a ton of research before I bought mine and barely found any info, so I just went for it. One thing that i'd like to point out is that the inlet, outlet, and return ports seem to have been threaded too large for the fittings. you have to use a crap ton of Teflon tape to make a good solid confident fit. I also discovered that the inlet and outlet threads are -6an, (.... well, close to -6an) so if you decide to swap out the fittings, that's what you need. It took me a while to figure out because it's not listed anywhere, and I wanted to run a -8an supply line without attaching a million different adapters to it.
Hmm... mine were fine. No issues and no leaks.
Hey there! I have a cheap aftermarket fuel regulator that looks similar to that one you have and I was wondering if I could attach a pressure gauge to it and if so, how would I go about it! It’s on a v8 engine. Thanks in advance!
There should be a 1/8” npt port in the front of the regulator that a gauge will thread into. If not you can run one in line on the fuel rail side with an adapter fitting. Hope this helps 👍
how to you hook this up?
I noticed you left the ignition on 😅
thanks for the video and review
Ever heard of a adjustable wrench.?
Nice job tho informative helpful video thanks.
Has anyone that's used this got it to go lower to like carburated pressures? Like 4 to 7?
Yooo this is a brilliant review didn’t just slap it on and send it actualy tested and then did a strip down hell yeh that’s a subscribe
Only thing that matters is the diaphragm, from 35 bucks to 400 bucks they all use the same shit.
Oh damn, seeing you e'rywhere bruh. :P
802 Garage if u see me everywhere that mean you’re everywhere 😂😂👍🏾😁😁
I'd be like Bruh do you want me to tell the people all the places you've seen me? OK shut up then.
@@SIRICKO Hahaha we both everywhere now? XD
Hahahaha awesome.
If your not running boost do you just not use the vacuum port?
Always run the vacuum line. You want to keep your pressure difference between the injectors and the intake the same through vacuum or boost. Otherwise say your pulling -10psi vacuum at 45psi fuel pressure, your pressure differential is now 55psi instead of your target 45 if you had the vacuum line hooked up. You want to set pressure with no vacuum line hooked up vented to atmosphere, then hook up the line. Hope this helps.
Shane Whalley not really sure that came out right, at idle you have more vacuum which would in turn return more gas to the tank and less to the injectors and then when you hit the gas and loss vacuum the regulator would become stronger and return less gas for a non boosted engine
@@americanman911 when the regulator becomes stronger due to a loss of manifold vacuum at high throttle openings, it raises the fuel pressure in the system, that gadget Shane Whalley has added goes into the return line to the tank from the system. When there is high vacuum without his regulator the pressure differential across the injector goes up and more fuel is injected, when a rising rate Regulator is fitted the vacuum line senses this, spring is pulled back and pressure in system goes down/less fuel which is what you want. He explains this earlier
This is from Aeromotive FAQ:
6. What is the barb fitting in the regulator cap used for? How and where should it be connected if I use it, and what should be done with it if I don’t?
All Aeromotive, carburetor bypass regulators incorporate the necessary design to allow the regulated fuel pressure to be vacuum or boost referenced, on a 1:1 ratio. For “blow through carb”, forced induction applications, where a turbo or centrifugal supercharger pressurizes the carburetor through a hat or in an enclosure, the regulator boost port should reference to positive pressure only, not vacuum. connect the port to the carburetor box or hat, not the intake manifold. For carbureted, naturally aspirated engines, and for roots supercharged engines where the blower draws through the carburetor, the vacuum/boost reference port should be LEFT OPEN TO ATMOSPHERER, never plugged.
Did the eBay kit include the AN adapter fitting to convert the factory fuel rail return outlet?
For a second there I thought you were Chester 👍👍👍
All the companies offering the same setups for $300 plus are hating you lol....good info brother thanks for sharing
…every 1 AN # is 1/16 of an inch...so -6 AN = 6/16 which reduces to a 3/4 open end wrench, not an 11/16
Every vibrant, fragola, automotive, earls, name brand 6an hose end I have ever used is a 11/16 wrench.
Wish you could’ve started it.great video . I got the same regulator today
You got a link to it?
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F281977085199
E85 capable ?
Lines definitely are not, im not 100% sure if the rubber diaphragm is.
I guess the fittings are metric. Because the rest of the world is metric and Asia too where this FPR is made. Or in the other US Source, Mexico is metric too. Rgds from the precise metric heaven Germany.
They are -6 an orb fittings, same threads as -6 an
So an increased manifold pressure of +10 PSI resulted in a fuel pressure increase of 12 PSI. That's not enough. Yes, your computer will attempt to compensate in closed loop to fix this (up to 25% before throwing an engine code). However, in open loop, you will be lean! A 10 PSI increase in fuel pressure will require a fuel flow increase of 66%! (This is assuming that normal operation takes place at 14.7 PSI (atmospheric pressure at sea-level). To get that increase, your fuel pressure would have to rise by about 100%. Or about 100 PSI since you started at 50PSI. The fuel pressure relationship for flow across an orifice is 1/square root of two (or 0.707). Which means that your increased fuel pressure here is 12/50 * .707 = .17 (or 17%). You are not even in the BALL PARK! Pretty risky to say the least. Hopefully your computer doesn't go open loop often. The only thing you proved is that this regulator is ideal for blowing up your engine! You need larger injectors (larger diameter orifice) as well as this woefully inadequate FPR to compensate. Chemical Engineer.
Great vid bro! Ordered mine. Btw is it still holding up?
I sold the car, but never had a single issue with it over the two years I used it.
The body's work so I just find a name brand and order a rebuild for the internals, aeromotive ect
This is a good idea. Appreciate the input!
@@Shane_Whalley
Ya man iv been doing that for yrs like with the type s BOV or hks and the waste gates, lot of the body's are the same so just order good inners !!
That's always been the advice I've seen too. Buy reputable diaphragms for the cheap units, make sure you Loctite the screws, and send it!
@@802Garage
Ya man cause all those parts are just stolen designs from someone else and sold cheaper just like clutches,lsd packs,gates,bov,coilovers,dizzys you name it !!! So ill buy a cheap one and just order a rebuild kit from summit or where ever. Turbos the same just buy ebay turbo and order a exspentive bearing pack from garret or where ever, you would surprised how much you can save on a budget build !!!!
@@winchracing64 Absolutely. :)
I buy good stuff when I can... But I'm broke!
Thank you man
That’s an awesome vid
Herko makes one for a few dollars more.
eBay makes one for a few dollars less.
The earings!!!
You look great thanks for video 👌
What do you expect for 35 dollars .
To be honest I expected it to piss fluid everywhere and not work. I didn’t expect it to outlive the life of the chassis and work flawlessly.
I expect a lot, especially when the piece gets made in the same factory as the aeromotive that we've been being charged 174-250 for for 20 years. So much of performance parts are 1000% markup and more. If they can sell it cheaper great. Not like aeromotive is producing it in north America and supporting the manufacturing sector, they find the cheapest supplier that meets their quality control specs and have them shipped in by the crate, probably spot check them, put in their box after they screen print a logo on it and charge you 250-350 and spend money on advertising to convince you it is higher quality than it actually is. Most learn how marketing like this works by the time they get into the 10th grade, maybe you didn't? Don't get me wrong, a lot of the imported stuff is junk, but a lot of it is good stuff, this happens to be a good piece, if you choose to pay 300% more for it there's about a 95% chance it's being sourced from the same vendor as this well priced decent kit. The world is changing my friend.
good vid man, it helped.
Thats cute it looks alil like a waste gate
Run this for 2 years with all included no bother at all
did U said U were test fmu
it must have been real painful for you to do your ears like that...god bless you my brother it hurts even for me to see it...
Change out the diaphragm to an aeromotive one and I should be great
Should adjust to 0 pressure.
great video, it was help full.
You get what you pay for, right?.
Buy the identical aeromotive regulator for 175-250 and lay it on a bench next to this. They are a very good copy of a well known and widely used design. The springs and diaphragm is available through jegs, summit and interchange with this or aeromotive. This is a case of aeromotive and others overcharging for something for decades, and when someone charges a Fair price people assume it's junk. It's a good part, take the time to open and clean, look for defects. Even if you are buying the expensive regulator you're doing that anyway right? If not you should be. Half of the time it's made in the same factory that aeromotive and others use to have their parts produced. If you want to give them their 1000-1500 % markup please do so, but it will not guarantee a superior part.
What's up with your ears?
What's up with you being a jackass fuckwad
Ears are used to attach a tow hook .
Duh, so where do you put your rings?
@@DocR16 Duh, So where do you put you're rings?
@The New NKVD Well it's 4 years more than you.