I have watched dozens of these videos and you are the first to explain how to install it in a deadhead system. I needed to install a return line in my RV to stop vapor lock and help clean the fuel after sitting for a while. Now I am going to give a try. Just need to find a t fitting big enough to have it return to the overflow or even the fill pipe.
Thanks, I saw were Matt Happel used this on 8f8. At the stage where I'm about to look at fueling system for my 71 Nova. I did not catch what you used for the Nova build. Your video's have inspired me to keep moving forward on my Nova build. Thanks again
Matt uses a totally different regulator on 8F8. I think it was QPI or something like that. Still eBay regulator though...just made a little differently.
Just FYI, you want that in the engine bay to make adjustments when necessary. Also you should hook up a direct vacuum line to regulate pressure while under load/acceleration.
Appreciate that brother. I tend to talk alot and overexplain so I'm sure people skip through alot of the videos,lol. Basically I was just using it to replace the vette filter regulator so I mounted it in the same position that it was in to avoid having to spend more time and money running an additional return line. And since had already scaled the fuel injectors in the tune to deal with vacuum levels in the manifold, a vacuum reference wasn't necessary.👍 This setup actually ended up working out really well even after we turbocharged this truck a few months after this video was made.
Thank You so my bro. I just finished your 1 year later video. Think im going to use this for my 91 foxbody Im building as we speak. Gonna order tonight so it should get back just in time when I go pick my gt40 heads up. Their getting Milled them to 59cc. One big experiment. Seeing what works what dont. Ill give this regulator a try. You rock man keep it up
In the instructions they advise to use teflon tape to help size of the fittings. Had this kit using the fitting provided and using teflon tape in a Classic mini and to date abosolutly no problems.
***UPDATE*** THE TRUCK THIS REGULATOR WAS INSTALLED ON 7 MONTHS AGO IS NOW TURBOCHARGED AND REGULATOR STILL FUNCTIONING PROPERLY! Very good budget solution for sure!
The muffler is NOT blowing exhaust anywhere near the regulator. The regulator is mounted 8” above and about 6 “ to the left of the exhaust and the exhaust tip is aimed down. It’s an optical illusion because the video is being recorded from above and to the right of the muffler.
Naw brother, it’s just the camera angle. Trust me the exhaust is nowhere near the fuel line except near the firewall which is unavoidable in this swap.
Shoot the cheap ebay reviews are the best ones since they let folks know when something cheap still works good so they can save money and still get an upgrade
Just FYI: I believe the tape you are using is the wrong kind; for fuel you need to use the yellow spool (for petroleum), the blue (designed for water plumbing) will deteriorate when contacted by fuel
Had my eBay one for over 14 years. Finally it failed. Diaphragm started leaking out of the vacuum port. It’s awesome for 35 bux. Buying another one today
Placing the regulator after the rail allows for faster changes in pressure in the rail in relation to boost reference. Because of this it is the preferred placement of the regulator in boosted applications. If you need more explanation beyond that I would suggest researching exactly how a fuel pressure regulator works so that you can have a better understanding of why placing it after the rails decreases response time as there are visual aids that will help you to understand better than my written explaination.
I bought this same regulator for my jeep build. Did u mess with how far down you could adjust it? I planned on keeping my intank pump and went with a carburated 318. Maybe it's my lack of knowledge dealing with this issue but I couldn't seem to get it to adjust one way or the other. I have since found out, I have to run a return to help keep pressure down but haven't done that yet since hearing that info. Any more info or help you have with this would be great! Thank you and great review of this product.
I've used two of these regulators, the diaphragm and spring are interchangeable with the aeromotive regulator it copied. Love it or hate it, it's a well made regulator with readily available parts to rebuild it.. to say it is junk would be to say that aeromotive designed it wrong and that is not the case. Hate the Chinese or not, it's difficult to justify 150-300 for an efi regulator when these work as well as they do for 50 bucks or less.
In the four years since this video was made we’ve used these same regulators on 2 other project vehicles here on the channel and our twin turbo Camaro “Chaos Theory” is currently running a knockoff of the smaller Aeromotive 13301 regulator. We’ve had zero issues with any of them. 👍
Before. I run a walbro 450 in tank pump, but if you run an inline pump then you want it as close to the tank and as far below the tank as possible with the exception of running a prefilter before the pump which I always recommend
Bad Luck Garage ah thats too bad 😁 i'm looking for tune ups for my 1.9 jtd fiat croma. Do you think the electric boost controller in your other video could work?
Just upgrades to a fuel cell and looking for an external fuel pump + filters and fuel pressure regulator for a 2011 Chevy colorado 2.9 stock engine with some upgrades so what about Bosch inline external fuel pump A good filter Osias fuel regulator with fittings n hoses? Any suggestions?
I’m not a Ford guy but I’m all about doing something different brother. I remember back in the day when 225hp was considered “big power” everyone in as swapping the 5.0HO engines into Miatas. That was like 20 years ago. I gotta admit though, 225hp 290lbft in a 2100lb car was a pretty badass combo back then. Those were the days when if you had a 12 second street car you were considered a badass and an 11 second car was just insane. My first corvette was a “built” 78 L82 with ported heads, a wolverine blue racer cam, edelbrock performer rpm intake and 750 carb, B&M turbo350 with a 2800 stall and a 3:90 rear gear. That car ran high 7s to low 8s in the 1/8 mile depending in weather. We used to race on a closed bridge on Friday nights. I had that car for a year and nobody could touch it with a street car. My buddy at the time had a beefed up 5.0 GT with all the Bolton’s, cam, and a Paxton supercharger and is still consistently beat him by one or two cars on the street everytime. At the strip we were dead even usually trading out wins every other run. God I miss those days. 😔
Does it hold fuel pressure on the fuelrail when you turn the car off? Asking because mine does not. The valve doesn't close proper, which results in bad starting.
There is no back flow valve in a fuel pressure regulator. If your pressure drops rapidly after shutting the car off then it’s your pump. Some aftermarket pumps don’t have them either so it has to build pressure when the key is turned forward. This is why most pcms have at least a two second prime everytime you turn the key forward.
Ok thank, i am asking because i just removed my stock 3 bar fpr on my audi 1.8t and installed this ebay thing and set it to 45psi, and now it starts bad. Mine prime perfect, but i think the valve seat in the new fpr is not sealing good. This week i will do some tests.
I’m not too familiar with Audi/Volkswagen setups so I can’t really say for sure if your stock fpr would have had a back flow valve. But I can say for certain no aftermarket regulator I have ever seen has one and most in tanks pumps do have them. Also the valve in the regulator is only there to regulate how much fuel is returned through the return line and will do nothing to stop fuel from back flowing through the inlet line of the pump doesn’t have a check valve or if the pumps check valve isn’t working properly. If the pump doesn’t stop the fuel then it will just flow right back out. The valve in the regulator MAY prevent fuel from back flowing out of the return line but again, this will have nothing to do with maintaining pressure at the rail. Hope that makes sense.
Keep watching brother. Sometimes we get lucky but I actually had two of these flimsy eBay fittings fail on a turbo drain line (at the track, and yes it’s in a video on this channel😉) about 6 months after this video was made. The substandard rubber seals used inside the swivel part of the fittings gave out after less than 100 miles. No way I would recommend using them in a high pressure situation with any flammable fluids. If you’ve watched this channel for any length of time then you know I’m all about doing things as cheaply as possible but when it comes to the possibility of my project burning to the ground I’ll spend $20 on better fittings. 😉
On a side note I did a one year update video on this regulator six months ago and it was still functioning with no leaks when I sold the truck. Link is in the pinned comment. 👍🏻
Even if they don't leak, the inside diameters are noticably smaller than a well made -6 an fitting. For the cost of fragola or other decent budget fitting it's just not worth messing with for performance use. On a mild performance setup the fittings do work, the hose they send is garbage!
How do I turn down the pressure i only need 6 psi the regular is showing 10 and my fuel rail is showing 20 when I turn the screw both ways it dosent move
Yes that’s not the same regulator brother. The only regulators I know of that have that kind of range come with two springs....one for high pressure and one for low pressure. The regulator in this video is not of that variety.
I have Same regulator. Problem is that it wont Flow enough,there is only 3mm hole inside to return port. I cant adjust pressure under 4bar cause that 3mm hole wont Flow.
I know it's been a while since your install but do you remember what type and size the internal threads were on the regulator block? I run 8an fuel line so I need to change the fittings out for the bigger hose
Hello Jerry Page, Thanks for watching! Unfortunately I do not but if you goto lowes or home depot they have the things hanging on the wall in the hardware section that you can either screw the regulator onto or the fitting into to determine what size it is.
Yup, same question. I want to order a better quality fitting that screws into the regulator but am having difficulty figuring out what that fitting size is
Ok so it's fine for the oring to go all the way inside the regulator? I have -6orb and regular orings go all the way in when tight. It doesn't sit on the outside like those washers.
Hey thanks for the great video! I have one question for you. What is the device that you installed on the intake line just before the FPR? Thanks again!
Your car, your decision brother. I have several other videos documenting the failure of these fittings on oil lines and fuel lines. They usually fail at the swivel point of the angled fittings. Its just not a chance I'm willing to take again.
i have a bypass 12-887 pressure regulator do you have to hook up the vacuum port line ..i didnt hook mine up i just converted tbi to carb i just put brandnew edelbrock 1406 carb on it and its backfiring popping out my exhaust..i got the pressure set at 6psi
Thanks for watching Brando. This FPR is for high pressure fuel systems and is not capable of controlling the low fuel pressure that a carburetor requires.
Hello Luis Beltran, Thanks for watching! I'm not really familiar with the fuel system pressure in your vehicle but I believe it most likely would work although some modification to your fuel lines will be required.
Just a heads up I have this kit and the 90 degree fittings are not safe. They all started leaking after a few months on the car and ended up being defective. The straight fittings and the regulator are still working good.
Thats why I recommended at the very beginning of the video not to use the fittings. 😉 It was obvious as soon as I felt their weight that they weren't quality fittings. As I stated in the video, You could possible use them for a low pressure application but no way I use ebay AN fittings for fuel injection. -Robert
Well that's good to know I'm going to be buying this kit to run it on my Subaru since I now have a tre performance 255lph fuel pump. All I was worried about was just the regular fitting working and not leaking.
The provided O rings are metallic impregnated and are pretty good quality and replacing them is probably not needed. I just installed one directly in my fuel tank. So if it leaks a little I am not concerned haha. But, I didn't have any leaks while I was setting it before stuffing everything into the tank. I appreciate this video because I wanted assurance of how to plumb it, and you showed me the way to pass the fuel feed directly through it and bleed off the return instead of running a T fitting between the pump and housing. Mine seems to be working fine, haven't driven it yet but my previous returnless solution was locked at 53 psi and I need the 43 I am dialed into now so I look forward to it.
How hard was the spring pal . I need 43psi but the spring that came in mine from ebay is rock hard . It probs starts at around 100psi even with the adjuster all the way out ?? Are there diffrent rate springs avalible . Cheers pal
Thanks for watching! No clue on the spring but as shown in the video it’s holding the 58psi I needed perfectly and has been for about 10 months now. 👍🏻
Hello London! Thanks for watching! Unfortunately I believe this unit is designed for high pressure applications. There are similar units that are designed for low pressure carbureted applications though. I know with the Walbro 450 pump the lowest I was able to take this was was around 30psi.
Bought this same regulator, diaphragm split after a month or two. Replaced that with an aeromotive rebuild kit. A few months later the poppet/ball on the diaphragm beat the seat up to the point it would randomly loose pressure and need readjusted. Throw that away. If you're running that on a boosted car, you are taking a HUGE risk.
Vehicle isn't boosted yet but will be in the future. As I stated in the video, this is only temporary and we plan to do a long term update video in a few months(or sooner if it fails). We have a factory return style set up waiting to be installed when the time comes. Thank you for watching and for the input! Good to know people still look out for others. 👍🏻
***UPDATE*** THE TRUCK THIS REGULATOR WAS INSTALLED ON 7 MONTHS AGO IS NOW TURBOCHARGED AND REGULATOR STILL FUNCTIONING PROPERLY! Very good budget solution for sure!
Hello ArchieRyan1, Thanks for watching! I still have not. If I begin having fueling issues at higher boost then I'll use it but at the levels I plan to run at with the decapped injectors, I dont believe I'll need to increase pressure to have an adequate fuel supply.
That is a dead head set up. Returnless does not always mean there is no return at all, it just means it is not returned from the rail. In other words, the fuel is “deadheaded” at the tail. This is explained in the video with diagrams of each style of system. If you don’t understand the difference between a return style and a dead head style system, the diagrams are shown at the 5:10 mark in the video to help you out. 😉
Honestly the Summit version is probably the exact same thing. This China stuff is hot and miss sometimes but the one I got this time held up great for over a year, even after I turbocharged this truck.
Simple mechanism very unlikely to fail.... same Chinese made the genuine made this knock off, high quality parts goes with high power vehicles... for regular very high end not necessary
![How to Test for a Stuck Open Fuel Pressure Regulator! [A ScannerDanner Premium Lecture]](/img/n.gif)
***UPDATE*** ONE YEAR UPDATE VIDEO! th-cam.com/video/Jtqo3P4tN2Y/w-d-xo.html
GOING TO USE THIS ON A 1970 TWIN SUPERCHARGED BUG! TELL YOU HOW IT GOES!
Much help🤙
Is it still good
Yes sir, still going. Check out the newer videos and the turbo C10 playlist for confirmation. 👍🏻
I have watched dozens of these videos and you are the first to explain how to install it in a deadhead system. I needed to install a return line in my RV to stop vapor lock and help clean the fuel after sitting for a while. Now I am going to give a try. Just need to find a t fitting big enough to have it return to the overflow or even the fill pipe.
Glad this video was helpful to you and good luck with your RV project! 👍🏻
-Robert
Thanks for the review. I appreciate seeing unbiased reviews on you tube.
did the replaced fittlng's fit better I'm going to install the same regulator this week
Thanks, I saw were Matt Happel used this on 8f8. At the stage where I'm about to look at fueling system for my 71 Nova. I did not catch what you used for the Nova build. Your video's have inspired me to keep moving forward on my Nova build. Thanks again
Matt uses a totally different regulator on 8F8. I think it was QPI or something like that. Still eBay regulator though...just made a little differently.
Just FYI, you want that in the engine bay to make adjustments when necessary. Also you should hook up a direct vacuum line to regulate pressure while under load/acceleration.
That would be ideal yes. My reasoning for mounting it where i did was explained in the video.
Bad Luck Garage gotcha! Might have missed that as I wrote this comment. Subbed man! Love the content! Keep up the good work man!
Appreciate that brother. I tend to talk alot and overexplain so I'm sure people skip through alot of the videos,lol. Basically I was just using it to replace the vette filter regulator so I mounted it in the same position that it was in to avoid having to spend more time and money running an additional return line. And since had already scaled the fuel injectors in the tune to deal with vacuum levels in the manifold, a vacuum reference wasn't necessary.👍 This setup actually ended up working out really well even after we turbocharged this truck a few months after this video was made.
Thank You so my bro. I just finished your 1 year later video. Think im going to use this for my 91 foxbody Im building as we speak. Gonna order tonight so it should get back just in time when I go pick my gt40 heads up. Their getting Milled them to 59cc. One big experiment. Seeing what works what dont. Ill give this regulator a try. You rock man keep it up
Thanks for watching brother. Hope it works as well for you as it did for me. 👍🏻
In the instructions they advise to use teflon tape to help size of the fittings. Had this kit using the fitting provided and using teflon tape in a Classic mini and to date abosolutly no problems.
I bought one and working like a damn champ
Thanks for watching! Yep, this ones still going strong 5 months later as well. 👍🏻
***UPDATE*** THE TRUCK THIS REGULATOR WAS INSTALLED ON 7 MONTHS AGO IS NOW TURBOCHARGED AND REGULATOR STILL FUNCTIONING PROPERLY! Very good budget solution for sure!
How to find out O ring?
If it helps, I used the fittings too upto 3.3bar a d have had zero issues, leaks or otherwise over 2 years of daily use
How to connect the hose to the fittings help
is it dangerous running your exhaust muffler blowing hot exhaust on the regulator and fuel lines?
The muffler is NOT blowing exhaust anywhere near the regulator. The regulator is mounted 8” above and about 6 “ to the left of the exhaust and the exhaust tip is aimed down. It’s an optical illusion because the video is being recorded from above and to the right of the muffler.
@@BadLuckGarage oh ok just looked like it was a foot away from it from the video.
Naw brother, it’s just the camera angle. Trust me the exhaust is nowhere near the fuel line except near the firewall which is unavoidable in this swap.
Shoot the cheap ebay reviews are the best ones since they let folks know when something cheap still works good so they can save money and still get an upgrade
Bad luck garage.....classic.....I have the same feeling sometime
Just FYI: I believe the tape you are using is the wrong kind; for fuel you need to use the yellow spool (for petroleum), the blue (designed for water plumbing) will deteriorate when contacted by fuel
bad luck and dumb self taught - no schooling here !
I have the exact same reg on my boosted c5z and boosted lsx mustang. No issues.
Yep, it worked flawlessly for over a year till I sold the truck. 👍🏻
Had my eBay one for over 14 years. Finally it failed. Diaphragm started leaking out of the vacuum port. It’s awesome for 35 bux. Buying another one today
Yea as far as I know this one is still on the truck I put it on to this day( over four years now).
@@BadLuckGarage a win win. For sure. Nice video brotha.
Just found your channel from a comment you made elsewhere...good stuff mr bad luck.
Thank you sir!! If you have time, you should check out the playlist for my budget turbo C10! I think it might be right up your alley. 😉
I just got one of these and I know the bottom port is for the return, but does it matter which side I use for the feed input?
No sir.
How do you connect the hose to the fittings?
5:08 what's the point of having the fuel pressure AFTER the fuel rail? doesn't make any sense to me...
Placing the regulator after the rail allows for faster changes in pressure in the rail in relation to boost reference. Because of this it is the preferred placement of the regulator in boosted applications. If you need more explanation beyond that I would suggest researching exactly how a fuel pressure regulator works so that you can have a better understanding of why placing it after the rails decreases response time as there are visual aids that will help you to understand better than my written explaination.
do you know any were on the net that tells you how to install a fuel pressure regulator?
You can’t be serious.
I bought this same regulator for my jeep build. Did u mess with how far down you could adjust it? I planned on keeping my intank pump and went with a carburated 318. Maybe it's my lack of knowledge dealing with this issue but I couldn't seem to get it to adjust one way or the other. I have since found out, I have to run a return to help keep pressure down but haven't done that yet since hearing that info. Any more info or help you have with this would be great! Thank you and great review of this product.
th-cam.com/video/Jtqo3P4tN2Y/w-d-xo.html
@@BadLuckGarage yup found that right after I posted the question lol. Thank you for your response.
😉👍
I've used two of these regulators, the diaphragm and spring are interchangeable with the aeromotive regulator it copied. Love it or hate it, it's a well made regulator with readily available parts to rebuild it.. to say it is junk would be to say that aeromotive designed it wrong and that is not the case. Hate the Chinese or not, it's difficult to justify 150-300 for an efi regulator when these work as well as they do for 50 bucks or less.
In the four years since this video was made we’ve used these same regulators on 2 other project vehicles here on the channel and our twin turbo Camaro “Chaos Theory” is currently running a knockoff of the smaller Aeromotive 13301 regulator. We’ve had zero issues with any of them. 👍
Also would you recommend running the fuel pump before or after the FPR?
Before. I run a walbro 450 in tank pump, but if you run an inline pump then you want it as close to the tank and as far below the tank as possible with the exception of running a prefilter before the pump which I always recommend
How do u adjust the pressure
th-cam.com/video/lZslYxesHLU/w-d-xo.html
Is it still holding up?
Read the pinned comment. that’s the last update.
Wait I have a return style rail, so do I just block it off and or switch it out?
No. Diagrams are shown at the 5:10 mark in the video.
do you have something for diesel cars?
Sorry brother. I haven’t touched a diesel since I got out of the Army.
Bad Luck Garage ah thats too bad 😁 i'm looking for tune ups for my 1.9 jtd fiat croma. Do you think the electric boost controller in your other video could work?
brother you should watch the follow up video to that boost controller. It failed after about a month.
Just upgrades to a fuel cell and looking for an external fuel pump + filters and fuel pressure regulator for a 2011 Chevy colorado 2.9 stock engine with some upgrades so what about
Bosch inline external fuel pump
A good filter
Osias fuel regulator with fittings n hoses?
Any suggestions?
nice video clear review and explaination. well done sir
Very nice. Your review sold me on the product. Saved some dollars on my build. Thanks much.
Thank you for watching Joshua. If you check the pinned comment, there is a link to the one year follow up on this regulator as well!
I saw that. Awesome. This is my racing channel. If you get bored, check it out. I'm putting a 302 in a 300ZX. The fuel pressure regulator is next!
I’ll check it out for sure brother. But why a 302? Just had it laying around?
@@BadLuckGarage haha I hadn't seen but 1 done before. Cheap motor and all. Thought id give it a shot lol.
I’m not a Ford guy but I’m all about doing something different brother. I remember back in the day when 225hp was considered “big power” everyone in as swapping the 5.0HO engines into Miatas. That was like 20 years ago. I gotta admit though, 225hp 290lbft in a 2100lb car was a pretty badass combo back then. Those were the days when if you had a 12 second street car you were considered a badass and an 11 second car was just insane. My first corvette was a “built” 78 L82 with ported heads, a wolverine blue racer cam, edelbrock performer rpm intake and 750 carb, B&M turbo350 with a 2800 stall and a 3:90 rear gear. That car ran high 7s to low 8s in the 1/8 mile depending in weather. We used to race on a closed bridge on Friday nights. I had that car for a year and nobody could touch it with a street car. My buddy at the time had a beefed up 5.0 GT with all the Bolton’s, cam, and a Paxton supercharger and is still consistently beat him by one or two cars on the street everytime. At the strip we were dead even usually trading out wins every other run. God I miss those days. 😔
Does it hold fuel pressure on the fuelrail when you turn the car off?
Asking because mine does not. The valve doesn't close proper, which results in bad starting.
There is no back flow valve in a fuel pressure regulator. If your pressure drops rapidly after shutting the car off then it’s your pump. Some aftermarket pumps don’t have them either so it has to build pressure when the key is turned forward. This is why most pcms have at least a two second prime everytime you turn the key forward.
Ok thank, i am asking because i just removed my stock 3 bar fpr on my audi 1.8t and installed this ebay thing and set it to 45psi, and now it starts bad. Mine prime perfect, but i think the valve seat in the new fpr is not sealing good. This week i will do some tests.
I’m not too familiar with Audi/Volkswagen setups so I can’t really say for sure if your stock fpr would have had a back flow valve. But I can say for certain no aftermarket regulator I have ever seen has one and most in tanks pumps do have them. Also the valve in the regulator is only there to regulate how much fuel is returned through the return line and will do nothing to stop fuel from back flowing through the inlet line of the pump doesn’t have a check valve or if the pumps check valve isn’t working properly. If the pump doesn’t stop the fuel then it will just flow right back out. The valve in the regulator MAY prevent fuel from back flowing out of the return line but again, this will have nothing to do with maintaining pressure at the rail. Hope that makes sense.
thanks, i will update, going to check some things tomorrow, very thankfull for your fast comment!
The fittings are great I ve never had a problem with them
Keep watching brother. Sometimes we get lucky but I actually had two of these flimsy eBay fittings fail on a turbo drain line (at the track, and yes it’s in a video on this channel😉) about 6 months after this video was made. The substandard rubber seals used inside the swivel part of the fittings gave out after less than 100 miles. No way I would recommend using them in a high pressure situation with any flammable fluids. If you’ve watched this channel for any length of time then you know I’m all about doing things as cheaply as possible but when it comes to the possibility of my project burning to the ground I’ll spend $20 on better fittings. 😉
On a side note I did a one year update video on this regulator six months ago and it was still functioning with no leaks when I sold the truck. Link is in the pinned comment. 👍🏻
Even if they don't leak, the inside diameters are noticably smaller than a well made -6 an fitting. For the cost of fragola or other decent budget fitting it's just not worth messing with for performance use. On a mild performance setup the fittings do work, the hose they send is garbage!
How do I turn down the pressure i only need 6 psi the regular is showing 10 and my fuel rail is showing 20 when I turn the screw both ways it dosent move
With the adjustment screw.
This regulator isn’t designed to run at that low of a pressure. This is an efi regulator.
@@BadLuckGarage the one I bought is 0-100 psi I opened the regulator up and the spring is just way to big
Yes that’s not the same regulator brother. The only regulators I know of that have that kind of range come with two springs....one for high pressure and one for low pressure. The regulator in this video is not of that variety.
@@BadLuckGarage mine didn't come with springs and no instructions
I have Same regulator. Problem is that it wont Flow enough,there is only 3mm hole inside to return port. I cant adjust pressure under 4bar cause that 3mm hole wont Flow.
Sorry to hear you didn’t have good luck with it.
is this applicable on a NA engine?
Yes as long as it’s running high pressure fuel injection. This regulator will not run low enough fuel pressure for carburetors or early style TBI.
Got the same regulator and I'm stuck at 100 psi. Any suggestions?? I'm not running a return or vacuum set up
You have to run a return line off the regulator. That’s how it regulates the pressure.
It's for a motorcycle engine on a buggy. What's the best way to route for a return
Bottom of regulator back to tank as shown in the video
Thank you
@@70NastyLac 👍
Does it matter witch side the fuel goes into the regulator?
I dont believe it would since its regulated through the center.
I have the same one I can't get it below 55 psi
If you have it plumber correctly and it won’t go below 55psi then send it back and get a replacement.
I know it's been a while since your install but do you remember what type and size the internal threads were on the regulator block? I run 8an fuel line so I need to change the fittings out for the bigger hose
Hello Jerry Page, Thanks for watching! Unfortunately I do not but if you goto lowes or home depot they have the things hanging on the wall in the hardware section that you can either screw the regulator onto or the fitting into to determine what size it is.
Yup, same question. I want to order a better quality fitting that screws into the regulator but am having difficulty figuring out what that fitting size is
ehxaust pointing straight to the fuel line?
um...no. Its an illusion because of the camera angle.exhaust is aimed down and out. Nowhere near the fuel line
U dont need Teflon tape, those are O.R.B. fitting in the regulator (o-ring boss)
You are correct and that’s why I went and got better orings. 😉
Ok so it's fine for the oring to go all the way inside the regulator? I have -6orb and regular orings go all the way in when tight. It doesn't sit on the outside like those washers.
Marco Williams u need different o-rings
@@anthonyrowell7853 what kind?
Bottom is the inlet and the sides are the outlets
No sir. The bottom is the return. All the ports on the sides are interchangeable though.
Hey thanks for the great video! I have one question for you. What is the device that you installed on the intake line just before the FPR? Thanks again!
If you're referring to the black cylinder, that's a summit brand 40 micron high flow fuel filter. Currently summit has them on sale.
I use Ebay fitting on all.my builds usually ptfe lines and fittings never had one issue. And I run ethonol 99%
Your car, your decision brother. I have several other videos documenting the failure of these fittings on oil lines and fuel lines. They usually fail at the swivel point of the angled fittings. Its just not a chance I'm willing to take again.
i have a bypass 12-887 pressure regulator do you have to hook up the vacuum port line ..i didnt hook mine up i just converted tbi to carb i just put brandnew edelbrock 1406 carb on it and its backfiring popping out my exhaust..i got the pressure set at 6psi
In a carb setup you don’t need to use a vacuum reference UNLESS it’s a boosted application.
How do you think this will work with a ls1 5.7 carburetored motor I'm running a holley 4150 750 dubble pumper? Thank you
Thanks for watching Brando. This FPR is for high pressure fuel systems and is not capable of controlling the low fuel pressure that a carburetor requires.
Thanks for the reply. And good to know
Are you in Knoxville tn by chance?
yes sir!
Nice, I heard the performance products reference, I live maybe 5mins from there
@@mikejohnson120 so do I brother. I just live off Merchant dr. 😉
Lmao me too do you have a fb page?
I found you
May l put it in a nissan maxima2000? I need to remove the original regulator?
Hello Luis Beltran, Thanks for watching! I'm not really familiar with the fuel system pressure in your vehicle but I believe it most likely would work although some modification to your fuel lines will be required.
THx for the in depth info!
Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out the one year review video! Link is in the pinned comment!
Can't buy the ebay link from Australia can anyone recommend anything for running one with veg oil in diesel engine?
Just a heads up I have this kit and the 90 degree fittings are not safe. They all started leaking after a few months on the car and ended up being defective. The straight fittings and the regulator are still working good.
Thats why I recommended at the very beginning of the video not to use the fittings. 😉 It was obvious as soon as I felt their weight that they weren't quality fittings. As I stated in the video, You could possible use them for a low pressure application but no way I use ebay AN fittings for fuel injection.
-Robert
Well that's good to know I'm going to be buying this kit to run it on my Subaru since I now have a tre performance 255lph fuel pump. All I was worried about was just the regular fitting working and not leaking.
Leaks then a backfire the brunt truck just a thought
Or it could still be going now....4 years later.
Just a thought.
th-cam.com/video/Jtqo3P4tN2Y/w-d-xo.html
@@BadLuckGarage ok ok I was just kidding I know you get a lot of trolling I actually bought this same one
Yes.....yes I do. 🤣
@@BadLuckGarage just subscribed keep up the good work and don't worry and the crazy people out there
Fair review, keep it up, I'm subed....
Doug Doty thanks for watching, subbing, and for the comment brother. I also did a 1 year update video. Link is in the pinned comment. 👍🏻
The provided O rings are metallic impregnated and are pretty good quality and replacing them is probably not needed.
I just installed one directly in my fuel tank. So if it leaks a little I am not concerned haha. But, I didn't have any leaks while I was setting it before stuffing everything into the tank.
I appreciate this video because I wanted assurance of how to plumb it, and you showed me the way to pass the fuel feed directly through it and bleed off the return instead of running a T fitting between the pump and housing.
Mine seems to be working fine, haven't driven it yet but my previous returnless solution was locked at 53 psi and I need the 43 I am dialed into now so I look forward to it.
you will get a wrong pressure reading = ha ha ha - dumb ass !
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm Pressure is the same at every point in a sealed system 🙄
How hard was the spring pal . I need 43psi but the spring that came in mine from ebay is rock hard . It probs starts at around 100psi even with the adjuster all the way out ?? Are there diffrent rate springs avalible . Cheers pal
Thanks for watching! No clue on the spring but as shown in the video it’s holding the 58psi I needed perfectly and has been for about 10 months now. 👍🏻
U didn't say how u put on the gauge
It just screws into the side of the regulator as pictured. Pretty self explanatory.
do you think this will work well at low psi around 5-10
Hello London! Thanks for watching! Unfortunately I believe this unit is designed for high pressure applications. There are similar units that are designed for low pressure carbureted applications though. I know with the Walbro 450 pump the lowest I was able to take this was was around 30psi.
cool. thanks for the help!
Anytime brother. 👍
Can this part be installed on a stock vehicle? Like the explorers,rangers?
you will need adapters of course but yes
The fitting that came with the kit, which you do not recommend. What are the size of the fittings? Yes, I bought trhe kit, then I saw your clip.
Hello almc2242, Thanks for watching! The fittings are all -6AN fittings.
Hi great video I see it’s been 3 years now since this video,how long did the fuel regulator last ??
th-cam.com/video/Jtqo3P4tN2Y/w-d-xo.html
@@BadLuckGarage yea that’s 1 year review, is it still running after 3 years ?
@@Mursounderground th-cam.com/play/PLnObA-smhvwMUPQqTyz2gHi_EKoCBYBkr.html
How fast does it drops the pressure after the pump goes off?
There is no check valve in a regulator. Pressure bleed off is dictated by the check ball in your fuel pump.
Bought this same regulator, diaphragm split after a month or two. Replaced that with an aeromotive rebuild kit. A few months later the poppet/ball on the diaphragm beat the seat up to the point it would randomly loose pressure and need readjusted. Throw that away. If you're running that on a boosted car, you are taking a HUGE risk.
Vehicle isn't boosted yet but will be in the future. As I stated in the video, this is only temporary and we plan to do a long term update video in a few months(or sooner if it fails). We have a factory return style set up waiting to be installed when the time comes. Thank you for watching and for the input! Good to know people still look out for others. 👍🏻
Ive had mine running for years on a boosted 383 gen1 w/ gen3 ecu
robert perrotta dude stop lying 🤥
***UPDATE*** THE TRUCK THIS REGULATOR WAS INSTALLED ON 7 MONTHS AGO IS NOW TURBOCHARGED AND REGULATOR STILL FUNCTIONING PROPERLY! Very good budget solution for sure!
One year update. th-cam.com/video/Jtqo3P4tN2Y/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video I just ordered the same item I’m working on a 87 Chevy caprice from 305 cid to 01 Chevy Tahoe lm7 vin T
Sounds like a cool project brother. 👍🏻
Hey you mentioned performance products lol are you from Tn lol
Yes sir!😉
Did you ever hookup the vacuum reference? Just curious
Hello ArchieRyan1, Thanks for watching! I still have not. If I begin having fueling issues at higher boost then I'll use it but at the levels I plan to run at with the decapped injectors, I dont believe I'll need to increase pressure to have an adequate fuel supply.
Last time I checked fuel don't NOT "Bend" aluminum.
purple SIX "Flower" metal bozo
On your setup you have a return line on it right? Thought you were gonna use just the dead head setup
That is a dead head set up. Returnless does not always mean there is no return at all, it just means it is not returned from the rail. In other words, the fuel is “deadheaded” at the tail. This is explained in the video with diagrams of each style of system. If you don’t understand the difference between a return style and a dead head style system, the diagrams are shown at the 5:10 mark in the video to help you out. 😉
thank you for the review
Yes sir! Thank you for watching! If this video helped you out feel free to share it!
The Summit equivalent is a piece of junk, glad to see there's an alternative in this price range that's lasting well.
Honestly the Summit version is probably the exact same thing. This China stuff is hot and miss sometimes but the one I got this time held up great for over a year, even after I turbocharged this truck.
@@BadLuckGarage the Summit one is definitely not of the same manufacturing quality. I'm sure it's made in China but it's cast potmetal, not aluminum.
Wow, good to know. Definitely won’t be buying one of those!😳
Simple mechanism very unlikely to fail.... same Chinese made the genuine made this knock off, high quality parts goes with high power vehicles... for regular very high end not necessary
Hi willisjam fire! Thanks for watching! Glad this video helped you out!
Can’t send back after you put fuel through it, should just refund tho
Why would I send it back? This things been working great for over four years now. 🤣