Yup. When I built my TC Hawkins kit. The metal to metal work was definitely better than a Traditions offering. I assembled the barrel to the Breach plate assembly. TC has a hook and mine is a fixed breach. I still had to get out the files and Stones to fit and polish he mating surfaces. Great job finding the milling chip that got lodged in the flash hole. Now even with FF for the charge with that large flash hole it may work more reliable with little hang fire. I would change to the smaller flash hole and go with FFF in the frizen pan. I shoot my .45 with plastic patch lubed. And 95 G of FF Black Powder @ 100 yards. Very accurate rifle. I glass/metal bed mine. Free floated the barrel 5,000” from the wood stock. I finished mine with stain and True-Oil. Thanks. Come on to appear in tonight. Terry
Thanks for the video and for all your work. Did you ever measure the breech plug threads into the barrel? I may have to make one. I just bought a 2005 model PA-Pellet that looks different from yours. The breech plug screws in flush with the back of the barrel except for a round “hook” sticking out of the center of the breech plug. The “hook” has a 6 mm hex hole to remove the plug. The touch hole liner is threaded into the barrel. You can see the end of the breech plug threads when you remove the touch hole liner. This is my first flintlock. I’m making my own black powder but caps, 209 primers, and even cartridge primers are hard to get - so I used that as an excuse to buy the flintlock. But - the breech plug is stuck. The owners manual says to remove it to clean and to use never seize, etc to reassemble it. I broke a new Craftsman 6 mm hex socket and right now it’s soaking in magic solvent, etc. I’ll try to remove it. I may end up shooting it and plan on machining the breech plug out later. I have ordered a 6 mm impact hex socket to try again before the next decision. I had not even considered the lock until I watched this video. Mine looks ok and the spring lines up. Apparently a variation in manufacturing.
Use the black powder grease on the breech plug, other stuff doesn't work well at all. I've used Traditions breech plug and nipple grease and TC super lube with good results. The touch hole plug on mine only had 2 threads so I increased it and replace the touch hole plug. Even gentle heating may help remove that breech plug.
Yeeeah. I’d have bought any lube available if I had a chance before the breech plug got stuck but it was stuck when I bought it. My plan now is to let it soak. I’ve got never seize and carburetor cleaner in there hoping some of the slippy stuff works down in the threads. The I’ll get the best 6mm hex wrench I can find and try to unscrew it. If that doesn’t work, I’ll try heat - knowing that I’ll lose the RealTree Camo coating. I’ve already tried stovetop heat - way too hot to touch. The plug is stainless and it’s bad to gall up. Once that happens, it rolls up little stainless BB’s in the threads and, chances are, it’s not coming out. If the plug is not going to come out, I’ll probably shoot it a while because it can’t get much worse. When I decide to get it out no matter what, I may put a steel bar with a hole over the breech plug and weld it to the plug hoping the heat, expansion, and contraction loosens it up. I could cut the back of the barrel off, and rethread it. Everything but the tenon could just move back a bit. I’d have to cut a new dovetail for the tenon. Or I might machine the plug out and make a new plug. A new,different design, barrel is $200+ and that’s 60% of what I paid for the whole gun. Did you keep your Traditions PA Pellet flintlock to use as a black powder shooter?
@@noellwilson1273 I still have mine. Haven't fired it since the video's. Try Aero Kroil, if that stuff doesn't work, nothing will. If you use heat, I wouldn't go over 300 degrees. Heating and cooling sometimes releases.
The only thing a flintlock with RELIABLY ignite is black powder. Don’t care what anyone says. Did you ever stop and think why the purpled substitutes are legally labeled as explosives and why black powder is? It’s because black powder ignites a lot easier. Also the touch hole isn’t suppose to have powder in it, that causes a delay.
If you read the description you will find the gun was supposed to designed use black powder substitutes. Powder in the touch hole in this case speeds up the ignition of said substitutes. The very name "PELLET FLINTLOCK" is a bit of a hint that it was supposed to be designed for said black powder substitutes. I am very well aware black powder is best for flint locks.
What are the breechplug thread dimensions? I have a 2005 PA Pellet that I bought used. Looks like it’s unfired. I can’t get it to fire. Hot water won’t go through the barrel and out the touchhole and the breech plug is stuck. The breech plug is completely different than yours. Mine is like an old style with a breech plug that screws completely into the rear of the barrel with nothing showing but the barrel and only about 1/2” of a 1/2 diameter cylinder that acts as a hook breech. The touch hole area is blocked with breech plug threads. I’ve done all the “stuck breech plug” stuff with no luck. It requires a 6 mm hex wrench and I broke one and twisted another. Anyway, I’m going to machine the breech plug out and make a new one. I’m having hopeful dreams that it’s a standard thread. I plan to make a high strength steel breech plug to avoid the stainless steel galling problem. 😊
I've never had the breech plug out so I'm not sure, metric no doubt. I'd use gentle heat in the area after warming the whole barrel. Taking it to a gunsmith would be my next step.
Hey. I have the woodsman flintlock and same problem with the touch hole not lining up with the pan. Not to mention the size of the hole. It takes way to long to fire.
@@hogsnplanes I'm still waiting for real black powder. It's very hard to find right now. My uncle suspected the inlarged hole is for ignition on other charge options. "Like those powder pucks " I'm not interested in that but my uncle being a black powder gunsmith was baffled with the touch hole and Pan set up.
I must have gotten a rare good one since mine shoots just fine as is out of the box. I use 85 g by volume of Pyrodex powder RS with 4f in the pan and no issues at all. I have used Pyrodex pellets as well with no issues except a loss of accuracy. Triple 7 pellets did not work at all.
I drilled my breech plug out to the next size up.Then i funneled it out about half the depth of the breech plug.The heat had to travel to far up the breech area in order to ignite the powder. The stock design is good for a 209 primer not for a flintlock.get ur self some of those white agate flints if u can find them . They throw a way better spark than those english flints
The spark has to travel to far of a distance in my opinion, the touch whole should be right next to the powder/pellets. If you check out the T/C Firestorm you'll notice the breech plug does not house the touch whole, it's in the side of the barrel instead. Just my opinion but check it out for yourself, good video thanks!! I may not have the right wording, ie flash whole or channel or touch whole...
I can see that Traditions’s hasn’t improved at all over the years. I have a Traditions’s frontier rifle in flint and had to do quite a bit of fixing to the action and fit and finish corrections. Its a decent shooter now but shouldn’t have left the factory in that condition. Better quality control shouldn’t effect the end price. Sad.
Where in canada ate you located? Do you have an email? I'm in my late 20s and don't know anyone who is interested in flintlock. Everyone I talk to speaks with such ignorance. Hard to find good advice.
The question is why why? Why would anyone even want to use pellets in a flintlock? It would never run has good has real BP. Why would they even make such a thing knowing that?
It has a 1 in 28 inch twist of a modern in line muzzle loader, but still has either a flintlock or percussion ignition system. It allows you to still do traditional muzzle loading and shoot modern sabot rounds accurately, (1 in 48 twist doesn some conical and balls but not great with sabots, 1 in 66 inch twist is just for balls). So, outside of shooting pellets, it has some other benefits. I also heard some states require a removable breech.
I've been using 777 3F in mine and 4f for the pan. It fails to fire occasionally so after I prime the pan I turn the rifle plate up and tap to make sure some powder goes in that touch hole.
Yup. When I built my TC Hawkins kit. The metal to metal work was definitely better than a Traditions offering. I assembled the barrel to the Breach plate assembly. TC has a hook and mine is a fixed breach. I still had to get out the files and Stones to fit and polish he mating surfaces. Great job finding the milling chip that got lodged in the flash hole. Now even with FF for the charge with that large flash hole it may work more reliable with little hang fire. I would change to the smaller flash hole and go with FFF in the frizen pan. I shoot my .45 with plastic patch lubed. And 95 G of FF Black Powder @ 100 yards. Very accurate rifle. I glass/metal bed mine. Free floated the barrel 5,000” from the wood stock. I finished mine with stain and True-Oil. Thanks. Come on to appear in tonight. Terry
I'd like to see that gun of yours.
Thanks for the video and for all your work. Did you ever measure the breech plug threads into the barrel? I may have to make one.
I just bought a 2005 model PA-Pellet that looks different from yours. The breech plug screws in flush with the back of the barrel except for a round “hook” sticking out of the center of the breech plug. The “hook” has a 6 mm hex hole to remove the plug.
The touch hole liner is threaded into the barrel. You can see the end of the breech plug threads when you remove the touch hole liner.
This is my first flintlock. I’m making my own black powder but caps, 209 primers, and even cartridge primers are hard to get - so I used that as an excuse to buy the flintlock.
But - the breech plug is stuck. The owners manual says to remove it to clean and to use never seize, etc to reassemble it. I broke a new Craftsman 6 mm hex socket and right now it’s soaking in magic solvent, etc. I’ll try to remove it. I may end up shooting it and plan on machining the breech plug out later. I have ordered a 6 mm impact hex socket to try again before the next decision.
I had not even considered the lock until I watched this video. Mine looks ok and the spring lines up. Apparently a variation in manufacturing.
Use the black powder grease on the breech plug, other stuff doesn't work well at all. I've used Traditions breech plug and nipple grease and TC super lube with good results. The touch hole plug on mine only had 2 threads so I increased it and replace the touch hole plug. Even gentle heating may help remove that breech plug.
Yeeeah. I’d have bought any lube available if I had a chance before the breech plug got stuck but it was stuck when I bought it.
My plan now is to let it soak. I’ve got never seize and carburetor cleaner in there hoping some of the slippy stuff works down in the threads. The I’ll get the best 6mm hex wrench I can find and try to unscrew it. If that doesn’t work, I’ll try heat - knowing that I’ll lose the RealTree Camo coating. I’ve already tried stovetop heat - way too hot to touch. The plug is stainless and it’s bad to gall up. Once that happens, it rolls up little stainless BB’s in the threads and, chances are, it’s not coming out.
If the plug is not going to come out, I’ll probably shoot it a while because it can’t get much worse.
When I decide to get it out no matter what, I may put a steel bar with a hole over the breech plug and weld it to the plug hoping the heat, expansion, and contraction loosens it up. I could cut the back of the barrel off, and rethread it. Everything but the tenon could just move back a bit. I’d have to cut a new dovetail for the tenon. Or I might machine the plug out and make a new plug.
A new,different design, barrel is $200+ and that’s 60% of what I paid for the whole gun.
Did you keep your Traditions PA Pellet flintlock to use as a black powder shooter?
@@noellwilson1273 I still have mine. Haven't fired it since the video's. Try Aero Kroil, if that stuff doesn't work, nothing will. If you use heat, I wouldn't go over 300 degrees. Heating and cooling sometimes releases.
The only thing a flintlock with RELIABLY ignite is black powder. Don’t care what anyone says. Did you ever stop and think why the purpled substitutes are legally labeled as explosives and why black powder is? It’s because black powder ignites a lot easier.
Also the touch hole isn’t suppose to have powder in it, that causes a delay.
If you read the description you will find the gun was supposed to designed use black powder substitutes. Powder in the touch hole in this case speeds up the ignition of said substitutes. The very name "PELLET FLINTLOCK" is a bit of a hint that it was supposed to be designed for said black powder substitutes. I am very well aware black powder is best for flint locks.
What are the breechplug thread dimensions? I have a 2005 PA Pellet that I bought used. Looks like it’s unfired. I can’t get it to fire. Hot water won’t go through the barrel and out the touchhole and the breech plug is stuck. The breech plug is completely different than yours. Mine is like an old style with a breech plug that screws completely into the rear of the barrel with nothing showing but the barrel and only about 1/2” of a 1/2 diameter cylinder that acts as a hook breech. The touch hole area is blocked with breech plug threads. I’ve done all the “stuck breech plug” stuff with no luck. It requires a 6 mm hex wrench and I broke one and twisted another.
Anyway, I’m going to machine the breech plug out and make a new one. I’m having hopeful dreams that it’s a standard thread. I plan to make a high strength steel breech plug to avoid the stainless steel galling problem. 😊
I've never had the breech plug out so I'm not sure, metric no doubt. I'd use gentle heat in the area after warming the whole barrel. Taking it to a gunsmith would be my next step.
Hey. I have the woodsman flintlock and same problem with the touch hole not lining up with the pan. Not to mention the size of the hole. It takes way to long to fire.
What powder are you using, Has to be real black powder for flintlocks. This one was "supposed" to be the exception.
@@hogsnplanes I'm still waiting for real black powder. It's very hard to find right now. My uncle suspected the inlarged hole is for ignition on other charge options. "Like those powder pucks " I'm not interested in that but my uncle being a black powder gunsmith was baffled with the touch hole and Pan set up.
I must have gotten a rare good one since mine shoots just fine as is out of the box. I use 85 g by volume of Pyrodex powder RS with 4f in the pan and no issues at all. I have used Pyrodex pellets as well with no issues except a loss of accuracy. Triple 7 pellets did not work at all.
No hangfire?
@@hogsnplanes None. Only thing is that Triple 7 pellets do not ignite but Pyrodex do
777 says right on the bottle to only use 209 primers to ignite it@@richjageman3976
I drilled my breech plug out to the next size up.Then i funneled it out about half the depth of the breech plug.The heat had to travel to far up the breech area in order to ignite the powder. The stock design is good for a 209 primer not for a flintlock.get ur self some of those white agate flints if u can find them . They throw a way better spark than those english flints
I did about the same works great, Its all I hunt with.
The spark has to travel to far of a distance in my opinion, the touch whole should be right next to the powder/pellets. If you check out the T/C Firestorm you'll notice the breech plug does not house the touch whole, it's in the side of the barrel instead. Just my opinion but check it out for yourself, good video thanks!! I may not have the right wording, ie flash whole or channel or touch whole...
Use 4F Black Powder to prime. Much more volatile than Pyrodex.
I always do unless I forget it. Pyrodex doesn't seem to work at all in the flash pan.
I can see that Traditions’s hasn’t improved at all over the years. I have a Traditions’s frontier rifle in flint and had to do quite a bit of fixing to the action and fit and finish corrections. Its a decent shooter now but shouldn’t have left the factory in that condition. Better quality control shouldn’t effect the end price. Sad.
You get what you pay for I suppose but should still be better than this.
Sadly, you seldom get what you paid for; anymore.
Where in canada ate you located? Do you have an email? I'm in my late 20s and don't know anyone who is interested in flintlock. Everyone I talk to speaks with such ignorance. Hard to find good advice.
I don't share my contact info on TH-cam for obvious reasons but you can PM on the site.
@@hogsnplanes I can not find an option for personal messages on my mobile device TH-cam sorry.
The question is why why? Why would anyone even want to use pellets in a flintlock? It would never run has good has real BP. Why would they even make such a thing knowing that?
Good question. It was on sale so I had to try it. I'll probably install a smaller flash hole and just use black powder.
It's convenient to not have to measure powder. Personally, having a flintlock that breaks down for easy cleaning is what im interested in lol
It has a 1 in 28 inch twist of a modern in line muzzle loader, but still has either a flintlock or percussion ignition system.
It allows you to still do traditional muzzle loading and shoot modern sabot rounds accurately, (1 in 48 twist doesn some conical and balls but not great with sabots, 1 in 66 inch twist is just for balls).
So, outside of shooting pellets, it has some other benefits.
I also heard some states require a removable breech.
Always make sure when priming your flinter to lay your rifle over and get a little powder in the touch hole.
Especially this one.
That's horrible advice
Bad advice, slows ignition time I find
This is the dumbest thing they did you still have to use two different powders so what did you gain 🤷
Nothing!!!
To be fair I always use 4F in the pan, but yeah. @@frederickmalicki550
Tripple 7or black powder. FFF
It's supposed to be designed for substitutes as per the description.
I've been using 777 3F in mine and 4f for the pan. It fails to fire occasionally so after I prime the pan I turn the rifle plate up and tap to make sure some powder goes in that touch hole.
@@justAfisherman1187 Powder in the touch hole is a must.