Cedar Shingle Wall Siding - See How It's Installed
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2019
- In 1986, as a 23-year-old with no building experience, I cobbled together my first building at the end of Bailey Line Road. Now I'm giving it a new lease on life.
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This was an excellent example of how all instructional video should be: very thorough, easy to understand, informative and calming...A++.
True to everything you said, but please don't use this as an instructional video. There are many mistakes and omissions.
Insufficient spacing of keyways (1/4" to 3"8" required, 1/16" provided), overdriven fasteners, insufficient capillary break at the bottom drip edge (1/2" required, 0 provided), lack of dam at ends of flashings (1/2" required, 0 provided), insufficient slope of flashings (6 degrees required, appears to be closer to 0), fasteners located too far from edge (3/4" recommended, over 1" in demonstration), inappropriate number of fasteners (manufacturer recommends 2 only per shake, 3/4" from each edge and approximately 1 1/2" above exposure line. if shakes/shingles are more than 13" wide 2 more fasteners should be added straddling the center of the shake, 1" apart) never any recommendation for any number other than 2, or 4.
There's more, but you get the idea I hope.
Thanks for posting the video, the shop looks nice.
Some criticism/tip; the product you are using is basically a type of house wrap, which performs exactly the same function as other house wraps, like Dupont tyvek, they are also air and water barriers which also allow vapor through.
So they repel water, and allow water vapor to escape, so the wall can dry out.
If you applied this product incorrectly it would act exactly like any other house wrap that was installed incorrectly.
The shakes/shingles touching the flashing at the bottom will prevent them from drying out, cause water to build up high behind the shingles. This edge will rot very quickly. For all wood shakes and shingles, for all species of wood it is required to have them raised 1/2" above the flashing to allow a drip edge and prevent capillary movement of water up the flashing/shingle.
An added bonus of the rain screen is air flow and rapid drying of the back sides of the shakes. It can help reduce warping of the wood as moisture content on both sides will be closer to the same. Blocking it off at the bottom not only prevents drainage and bulk removal of water, but also the convection currents and drying potential in all stages.
What i do with my houses is add a bug screen at the top and bottom so the gap doesn't allow bugs in, but does allow air flow and water egress.
😍That is a beautiful little shed! And it’s got some really nice build details! The dimple mat help those shingles last way longer than standard application. This builder has obviously spent a lifetime building better every day. 👍💪☺️
Terrific and thorough video. Thanks for explaining the curving-to-inside issue. Finding the heartwood is tough sometimes so that's a double check that the shingles/shakes don't buckle outward over the years. Many thanks!
Excellent and highly informative video! You're easy to understand and your stories are wonderful to hear. Thank you from the San Fernando Valley, California.
Great job on explaining the whole process!!
Very good instructor with good technical skills we get good times watching your videos.
Extremely informative, thank you!
Wow just great! Great job! Awesome explanation. Probably the best. I’ve had ever watched. 👍🏻
Very much enjoyed watching your video!
Wow! Haven't seen you in a long time Steve. Lookin' good big guy! I have a shingling job coming up and this is a great refresher, thanks.
Great information. I love all your videos.
Really helpful, well explained at the right level of detail. I learned a few tips for you. The reason I found you is I was searching for advice on how to work around the corners at the top of the door. I can infer, at about 16:00. that I will want to work it so the butt of the appropriate course 'sits on' the upper edge of the door trim. Me betchum's you will use some copper flashing there! My baby barn is sheathed with rotten old beaver barf (chipboard). Thank you for the good words for eastern white cedar. That is what I am using as a New Brunswick's neighbouring Prince Edward Islander, well past the three score and ten.
Awesome video, learned lots
Thank you for this video. This is an excellent resource for water management solutions in terms of building facades
Glad it was helpful!
GREAT video. Thank you.❤
Excellent video . Finally someone explains exactly how to side with shakes . Even down to what kind of staple and the different types of shakes . I noticed that you didn't tape the Delta Dry . Is tapping not needed .Thank you SIr .
thank you so much! Very helpful
Good video !!
This is excellent! I like the conversational tone and in depth explanations . I've never been handy at home projects but I'm learning more and starting to attempt projects I feel confident I can do a good job on. Wood siding like this is a dream project for me some day. Thank you.
i dont mean to be off topic but does someone know of a method to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost my login password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Luis Cayden instablaster :)
@Mohammad Alfonso Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Mohammad Alfonso it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
@Luis Cayden happy to help :D
Excellent!
When I use a ledger for assembling the courses of shakes I run a leg up each end so I can fasten it above the previous courses.
I usually use 1x4 spaced sheathing for my rain screen so an added bomus is on the vertical parts of the ledger I just attach a block to hang it off the 1x4s like a french cleat. No fasteners required.
Hang the board, arrange/fasten shakes, move board up, hang it repeat. Takes literally seconds to move.
Important note; attach your 1x4 precisely so they act as a guide for your shakes. A story pole and laser level is a great pair of time savers.
Enjoyed learning your techniques and how to weatherproof behind the shingles. Do you have a video on how to flash around the windows and tie it into the system?
Loved the video very informative and always a pleasure watching them. Big Thumbs up
Thanks Steve, I always learn a lot from every one of your vids.
Nice job your doing or did 👍
Thats building wrap too!!!
Nice one
Just found you site was love it .. was wondering where i could find shakes for my Zebo ,its 16´ wide. I check with Home Depot and Lowes but they don´t have 16¨ shakes, Thanks , love your work ? See Ya from SE Texas
Oh the horror! Re the trick of learning to see the problems ahead of time. And the reality that often "...the way you do that is by messing up...in the past...and remembering the horror of that." Very thorough and meticulous explanation - thanks for alerting me to the horrors of this job. Although I'm sure i'll find new ways to screw up, at least I've been warned!
Thanks for the video, I live in a small house in the UK where the houses have cedar shingles between the upstairs and the downstairs bow windows. My shingles have been there since the house was built circa 1955 but they're so weather-beaten now they're beginning to fall away, hence my 'research' before I attempt to replace them. Watching these TH-cam videos has made me appreciate the shingle more when initially I was somewhat unimpressed as to how dull they can become over time. Interesting that my shingles are nailed directly to horizontal battens, no membrane, no drainage layer, and yet they've lasted well over sixty years.
great review thanks for sharing. What is the vertical spacing between the shingles? Also is there any spacing for the starter row?
Thanks in Advance,
Another great video. My question goes into the future. Best way to cleaning the shakes? Can we pressure wash? I have seen the stain video. Here they can turn black. Your thoughts? Thank you
My house has double course cedar shake siding. Under course and outer course and the rows are spaced much further apart.
I would put this vent wrap under the trims as well, of course the deltra dry not. What do you think ?
Your video was very informative. However, I've never seen a good explanation on what to do as you approach a sill and begin to run out of room for a full shingle. The obvious thing seems to be to just start cutting the tops off your shingles as you proceed up the wall, but won't that make each successive course to become thicker and thicker than the course before it? I am faced with this issue now on a back wall that has a sill going across the entire wall about 4 feet up from the foundation.
Hi Steve, thanks for the video, we have a family cottage near M'Chigeeng. How do you start the bottom course of shingles? You said at any point there could be 3 layers of shingles over lapping. The first course of 5" exposure would only be a single shingle thick. If the shingles shrink you would see the wrap under neath. Just wondering if you doubled them up?
Good Morning! That's a great question. The bottom course of shingles is double, as you suspected. The joints need to overlap on that bottom course by at least an 1 1/2" or 2". After that, each course goes up by 5", more or less. Do you have a building you'll be installing shingles on?
Bye and thanks for watching!
Steve
Any thoughts on 1/4” crown staples? I know the Cedar Bureau advises 7/16 but I’ve read a lot of post where siding contractors use 1/4” and report good results.
You must not have a lot of faith in your shingles or shingling ability if you are using all that underlayment. The cedar shingles on the outside of my house were nailed directly over tar papered solid wood sheathing in 1942 and they lasted over 70 years.
Is there any big advantage to staining the shingles?
dude you should be a teacher it was a pleasure to listen to you
In my neighborhood (southeast Houston) all the houses including mine that have cedar wall shingles, they are installed with double courses and each row is spaced further apart than whats in your video. I’ve discovered that it’s not very common to do it that way. Any thoughts? Also on the undercourse they used the smooth shakes and the outer course is the groved shake. I do like the look on my house. It has a nice “reveal” shadow between rows.
he wates alot of money my reveals are like 16 to 14 inches who dcks around all day with one shingel
What is the dimple material?
All that work and material? For a shed?
Hello Steve, I didn't hear if you mentioned where exactly you got your white cedar shingles from via delivery? I'm in California and looking for more of a price you got them at. Thanks so much for any info on this. ---Ryan.
He used Waska, the supplier for that in California is Pacific Shingle (so they told me when I contacted the mill directly)
Hmmm, interesting... in 1986, I was a 23 year young U.S. Marine, in North Carolina.
Do wifes know how damn good a DIY handy man husband is? I don't think so... way to much info but I managed to listen until the end... (maybe the decorative video will be shorted and to the point?)
So what would you say it cost you per square foot?
Thanks for the video! The shingles should have 1/8" to 1/4" spacing between them, though, no?
No, shingle shrink width-way
I just bought some cedar shingles and the box clearly says to space them 1/8" to 1/4" to allow for expansion, I assume due to moisture. So, you are correct. According to the people who sell them.
That’s gunna be one dry lawnmower
They make pvc drip cap that ypu can use instead of copper, however the copper is +++++++A
Steve if your little building project is that bad out of plumb and level why are dumping all of this money in it?
It's good to see Woodglut have new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
Funny to so carefully water proof the wall and then put a million holes thru it with staples..
Need a lavalier microphone. Too much background noise (cutting, rustling) coming from the camera mic.
Woodprix is nice for that.
normal underlayment breathes 2
Do we have to use all this toxic plastic when ancients built homes, with only wood, and they are still up today, 200 years later? I don't think all this plastic will last that long. Thy are just polluting slowly our environment.
Overkill on the underlayment
carpenter 45 years never used dimple never leave a gap in shingels they shrink re shake sideng every 20 years at least they are garbage after that i go with 14 inch reveal and use a compound miter for angles- sides power wash every 4 -5 years represerve without power wash 2 nd year after preaserveing first year 1 coat no power washing
i dont have time to overbuild. cedar 5 inch reveal is a waste of time and money
yes face nail stainless steel no one will notice , its a ranch , anything more work than that should use fake vinyl shingels your welcome yes been doing sideing painting 45 years
time is money and have fun wasteing money
did my own house this way its rustic looks great cost cheap at 600 dollars a square
hahaha nobody wants cedar its too much work for maintence pvc trim also
its been a long time and dont have time or money to waste.
30 min to watch this guy put one shingle…🤦🏻♂️ to be fair anyone can do this with this guy.. :/
i agree dck around all day been working on this shed for 30 years lives in his van down by the river
appreciate the video but you need to edit by streamlining your comments. over-explanation, need to kinda speed it up. i know you get more ad dollars by drawing this out but the ratio of valuable content to just long-windedness makes me not come back.
I don't understand why people don't realize when they talk so much it becomes very boring more work and less talk perhaps you can talk while you're working make it more interesting
I appreciate him explaining this.