I have had many bikes and new cars. I kinda go easy for the first 500 miles. Usually ride at different rpms. After 500miles its free sailing. Never had any issues at all in 50 years of buying new anything.
Exactly the same for myself. NEVER had a problem. My bud purchased a 2023 bike, couldn't resist the throttle, within the first 15 miles, he was bouncing the rev limiter😅. That bike ran like a champ . FACTORY freak. 😂
Me too. Cars , trucks, and bikes. Got my first bike 45 years ago! Never hurt me, to go by the manual. Never burned any crazy amount of oil, or any real issues...
I go by the manual. To me, this comes directly from the engineers that built it. My road glide says 500 miles, to stay below 3500 rpms. Easy enough to do. The tech told me the same thing. Oil change at 1000. The tech Saud after the 500, do what ya want. I'm not going over 4k until after the first oil change. Get those metal chips out....idk. that's what I do
They dont't tell you to take it slowly for the engine health, but rather to avoid lawsuits of people ending up having accidents, because the proper way to brake in an engine is to let it warm up and then run it under heavy load and high rpm. The manufacturers even run the brand new bikes on the dyno to check if they make the advertised power and have any issues before shipping them out. So now after the bike has been brought to its limits, you have to ride it gentle? Make that make sense please.
@RuBa1Z Your money, your bike, do what ya want. I don't believe for a second, they tell you to stay under 3500 rpms, in any gear, to avoid accidents. That's ridiculous. Even the manager of the service department recommended that! I've owned SEVERAL motorcycles, cars and trucks, in my 60 years. Have you ever looked at the oil and drain plug magnet after 1000 miles? There's an awful lot of metal chips in there. If you want your stuff to last, listen to mechanics and the engineers that build the shit!
@@BobinNH You actually made a good point in the end to listen to the engineers, so let's forget about what a manager tells you, because he has no clue. The people that build the engines, measure every engine part to be a perfect fit and they say that it is crucial to run the engine hard in the first 20-30 miles in order to ensure the maximum power and longevity. If they wrote this in the manual, people would stress out not riding their bikes hard and fast enough, which would result in some people having accident because of it. Then the manufacturers would be held liable and that's why it ain't written in the manual. Of course an engine gives off the most amount of metal particles when the engine is new because all the different bearings and rings have to adjust to eachother. That's why you change your oil multiple times in the first 1000 miles. Now tell me please why the manufacturers are allowed to redline the bike in the factory but you "have" to baby it?
What I do :Ride it like u gonna ride it Stay below 4k rpm for first 500 Don’t stay at same rpm But get on it some After 500 let it rip. Bike runs great
When I picked up my road king from Johnson engine technology in Mystic CT after a top end rebuild he said “run it however you want I broke it in on the dyno”. 20k miles later things still running like a song.
I did a lot of research when I rebuilt my TC 88, reviewed the motorman procedure among other break in procedures… After seeing the crosshatch, and how the break in procedure uses the fresh cross hatch to oil and cut in to bed the rings, I felt the factory procedure would be more effective at setting the rings… I followed the same procedure when I picked up my new ‘22 road glide 114. Over 20k miles now, no issues so far… Under 3k rpm for the first 500, and then under 4500 until 1000 miles, vary speeds, no long highway runs…. after that, let her rip…
I bought a new 2019 street glide special towards the end of 2018. I followed the break in period and haven't had any problems. It now has 96k and purrs like a champ.
When I bought my 22 low rider st they said to ride it kinda easy but normal for the first five hundred miles. 12 hours later I took it up my Washington and had a blast with it sense. But I didn't baby it but I also didn't straight up beat it neither. I changed the oil at 1000 and it's all good. Have over 12k on it now
30 to 60 seconds idling is fine, and then 2 to 3 miles of riding easy and the cylinder temp will be up to the 180 degree range. At that point, the aluminum pistons, and steel cylinders, will have expanded to their proper operating clearances, and you can get hard on the throttle. The cold engine damage typically occurs when you immediately run a cold engine hard. The aluminum pistons heat up and expand much quicker than the thick heavy steel cylinders, to the point where the pistons are scraping and scoring the sides of the cylinder walls.
Warming the bike up is important... at minimum, you should run the engine 30 seconds to allow oil to reach the top end. The bike should not be ridden aggressively until the engine is at operating temperature. Common sense.
I’ve never broken in a motor as recommended by the dealer. I’ve always taken them to their limits on the way home from the dealer once the engine was hot. Most of my life I built race engines for my street cars. I would run a new motor for about 20 minutes at around 1500-2000 rpm’s if new rings were installed or a new cam was installed. After a quick break in I would change the oil, checking the oil and oil filter for a metal. If all was good off to the track I went.
I kept my new bike at different RPM's and was told to ride it like you ride. Just try not to keep it and the same RPM's for any length of time. Never had an issue with my bikes
Big John I have owned 7 new HD bikes only had 1 dyno tuned all the others just rode them never had a problem most were traded with 40k
19 วันที่ผ่านมา
Dealer told me to keep my 24’ RG under 3500 for 500, then drive it like I stole it for the next 500, then bring it in for oil change. 3500rpm allowed me to pretty much raise minor Hell with it. Got to 80mph easily at 3500, so my break-in was plenty of fun.😊 That said, this video was informative!
The most important break in procedure is at the factory... managing heat cycles is very important. If you want longevity, break it in as per HD manual procedure. Change RPMs frequently, do not lug the engine and rev it to the max recommended RPM only for the first 500 and 1000 mile intervals. Change the oil and filter at 1000 miles and then ride as you please. Another crucial component that the M8s experience is too much crank case pressure. I immediately installed external head breathers and the Trask tranny vented cover. I have 1600 miles on my 107 and it blows damn near zero snot out of the heads and the Trask filter is clean. My engine does not burn noticeable oil. So far, so good. The procedure you speak of works just fine for race engines that get torn down and rebuilt every season. You will see race engines given a good amount of heat cycles before being run. This is the trick to proper ring seal. They also run significant crank case relief systems. I have read reviews on different break in procedures. And all of them showed that following the manufacturer's recommended procedure worked best for the long haul. Merry Christmas and stay safe in 2024 :-)
When I purchased my 2020 Road Glide off the showroom floor, I run the engine hard. When I got about 500 miles on the engine, I did about a 2500 mile road trip. Also I have a Cessna 172, last year I installed 6 brand new cylinders and pistons and rings. The proper way to break in the cylinders is to fly full throttle for 2 hours on mineral oil. After this you’re good to go.
I left the dealer road the 12 miles to the interstate and promptly took it right to 110 MPH in 5th gear then 6th and slowed back to 70 to 60 back to 80 back to 60 back to 100 and did that the 45 mile ride home. motor been fine for the last 19K miles
I’ve always followed the motto of if you want a fast motor you break it in fast. I did this with my 107 street glide and I swear it rips harder than some 114s
Bought a new RoadGlide in 2008. I broke it in by heat cycling. Put a set of Andrew 21 cams with a heavy breather from Harley. I still own the bike. I’ve put 102,000 miles on it, runs like a top and doesn’t use oil.
Brother what a great resource, that was a great teach and I’m with you. I’ll listen to the builders. You made all the sense in the world. Now my Part 2 for you. How would you address/handle a slightly used bike, say a 2022 Road Glide, you just bought with less than 2,500 miles on it? You have no real idea how it was broke in or was it at all, or was it overdone; only going by what you were told. If your plan was to do a big bore stage whatever, then you break in the correct way with the upgrade. But if one has no plans for a big bore, but maybe just upgrade to a Stage 2, then do you just hope for the best, or take it to your guy to pull things apart to examine as much, and determine your path from that point forward.
I’ve owned 7 plus brand new Harley-Davidson Motorcycles and I’ve never experienced any issues with any bike. They all ran perfectly consistently since I know how to ride properly. Also, I break in a new engine the exact way I ride. If you ride too slow the pistons will seal lower than you typically ride. Just ride it how you normally would considering you know how to properly ride beforehand.
I keep it under 4000 RPMs while in the dealer parking LOL I left Bergan with my new bike and brought it directly to my mechanic for cam pipes tuner and dyno tune.
When I did both of my stage 4 bikes I was told to be easy on them for the first 500 miles. I think I obeyed that for like the first 150 miles. Not an issue once. My bikes run like a freaking Cheetah. 😂🎉. I do suggest to always do the S&S guardian kit on big bores.
And this is why HD says that using up to a quart of oil every 1500 miles is “normal”. Easy break in, poor ring seal, and its an oil burner for life. But as long as it makes it through warranty, HD doesn’t care.
I just bought a 2024 rg, they told me 1000 mile break in period, dont beat the hell out of it, dont be afriad to ride it, but what they really dont want you to do is get on the highway and set the cruise control for three hours. They want you to spend the first 1000 miles on a country road where you are changing rpms and shifting a lot. They didn't tell me there was a rev or speed limit.
Fantastic Video, I Have Not Been Easy On A Engine Brake In. From My First New Mini Bike, In 1966 To My 2016 TriGlide. Be Safe,And Stay Healthy, And Have A Groovy Day.
I listen to the motor and the motor only! It will loosen up and start running cooler. Then after I change the oil out I will start rolling on the power ASAP. Usually around 1,000 miles on the clock. Until them keep shifting gears no long sustained mph and a lot of cooling off and warming up on rides.
I have never had a motorbike engine fail on me except a two stroke in my early years which siesed and a honda which sounded bad and no matter how many tomes i took it to the dealership he would just say oh you dont like singles. That bike had a recall for the bearings and they never di the work i traded it and it broke down soon after bring sold. The bike store was pissed who sold it to me as they had grief from the store i traded in with as they had not done the recall work which was the failure i was hearing. Every other bike has been fantastic engine wise. No matter if i bought it new or second hand. Lets face it a lot of bikes are bought second hand who knows how they were run in mostly you have only service records to go by and the bikes overall condition. I would say the most important thing you can do for your engine is chage the fluids regularly ie oil and coolant.
When my engine was built, the engine builder told me ride it like your going to ride it. the dyno guy already rodded the hell out of it on the dyno. My new bikes I usually drive 500 miles nice and gentle not over 3000 rpms, then change oil and ride it like I stole it.
Update from my last post. I just got my first service done. 1500kms, not quite the 1600 or 1000miles, but close enough. The first 40-50 miles, I adhered to just taking it easy and not romping it or exceeding 100kph/60mph. After that, I guess you could say I halfass hard broke it in. I really worked the motor. Rolling on good, rolling off. Engine braking. Playing with the rpms and gears in the 3000-3500 range. On the highway, fed it good throttle, rolled off. Did that a bunch, rolled on hard, shifted. Stuff like that. Only odd thing was that apparently I lost a manifold bolt upon inspection at the dealer for the service? lol.
I bought my 2023 road glide st brand new on the test ride they told me go out and give her hell see how u like it... after I brought it back and decided to buy it they said keep it under 3500 rpm for the first 500 miles... I'm like u just told me to give it hell now your telling me to take it easy I was like well glad it's got a warrenty
Excellent video John and SOOOO informative!!! I think I've heard this from every dealership I've bought a bike from - regardless of the brand. I'm betting they say this as a liability thing.
I DIDN'T LISTEN TO THE DEALER WHEN I GOT MY SECOND BIKE, THE SUMMER OF 97. BOUGHT A 1997 GIXXER 750SRAD BLUE AND WHITE. WHEN I GOT ON THE E-WAY GOING HOME WITH IT, I GOT UP IT TO 110MPH LOL. I ROAD HER HARD FROM THAT DAY ON THE WHOLE SUMMER WITHOUT ANY MECHANICAL ISSUES WITH THE MOTOR OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE BIKE. OH, I BURNT THE CLUTCH OUT THE NEXT SUMMER, RACING AND DOING BURNOUTS😂😂
Thanks for another good video and especially this one as there are so many people that get this wrong. Every street bike I have ever had from new I ride it like how I would normally which is on the more aggressive side of riding. Only 2 rules I try to keep is not to red line it and avoid a steady RPM for the first 500-800 KMS and then drop my oil. So far very bike I have ever owned I haven't had any issues with.
2023 HD Nightster RH975. Dealer said keep it under 4k RPM. This bike doesn't redline until 9k. I submit that as long as I didn't run at a constant RPM it is better to vary the RPM's across the entire band.
You can't... and, finding a good dyno tuner can be difficult. I have seen the results of poorly dyno tuned bikes. In Commiefornia where I live, the EPA cracked down on dealerships for selling aftermarket tuners even though they were meant for offroading only. I cannot legally obtain an aftermarket tuner out of state as retailers are prohibited from shipping to this state.
I've never heard of anyone recommending 1500, 2000, 3000 miles break-in. I've never heard of it exceeding 600-800 miles and do a break-in oil change and do whatever you want after that.
The dealer doesn’t matter. How hard is it to read and follow the owner’s manual? You don’t want to follow the manufacturer then don’t worry about your warranty.
There’s a reason they put it in the manual. It’s like putting “caution hot” on your coffee cup. When they plug in the bike to the diagnostic computer, they know how you ridden it. Also not everyone can buy a 30k bike, then put another 20k in it. If they made high performance derby cover bolts, you would buy it.
Maybe you could do a video on what to look for when buying used bikes? Because I seriously doubt I will ever pay what the motor co. is asking for new bikes.
Thx for this video man! I will take my (first) new motorcycle in the next few days so I'm trying to find out as much info as possible about this topic. So many different opinions and ideas but this thing is serious! In most serious videos I've found so far they say the same thing, the bike needs to be ridden through different rpm. The fact that it's not necessary to wait for 1000 or 2000 miles it's more good news to me! Btw, just found your channel, the algorithm suggested yours when I tried to find videos for breaking-in bikes so I appreciate your info.
A "break-in oil change at 500-600 miles on new or freshly built motor is very important. Beyond that with modern engines, the other important things are not to stay at any sustained rpm for long periods of time and try hard to avoid running the bike for short periods where it doesn't get up to full operating temp, for the first 1000miles.
@@williamlyons3947 What? HD's quality issues are far behind them and on top of that most of the performance engine builders build to standards and tolerances far beyond any manufacturer. Not doing a break-in to ANY new engine is just plain stupid. Before you write something about me being an HD fanboy or some such nonsense. I ride Honda Goldwing Tour and a Suzuki DRz400s
Initial break in procedure may only be needed for first 30 miles on some bikes but you’re insane if you are trying to convince anyone that all bikes and engines are fully broken in after that and I don’t care who your buddies are, what they build or how they dyno. I often end up with a completely different running bike at 1000 miles than it was at 100 and there is nothing wrong with playing it safe during this time of constant changes. Because it’s not just about break-in you are also looking for any manufacturing flaws that could be minor now but will become catastrophic if not caught early on before riding hard. RTFM. Proper warm up procedure every time. Take longer rides while varying the speed, rpm’s, shift points and terrain. Use some decent engine braking and hard acceleration but not excessive and no lugging or tractoring dirt bikes yet. Don’t beat the living snot out of gear box and clutch doing stunts or redline the engine yet and change oil and filter every 200-300 miles first few times. After 400 to 600 miles if everything seems fine then start letting her have it any way she wants it.
My gut says bring up any internal combustion engine to operating temperature before laying into it regardless of it's age / total hours / miles. Other than that, I try my best to get in 2-3 heat cycles before pushing it. I've also gone full boost / wot with less than 50 miles on a mustang Coyote engine after being fitted with upgraded pistons / rods etc. No problems. I also just bought a brand new Kawi ZH2 and it'd been in the 140mph range several times before it reached 80 miles lol. I was however up to operating temp.
I got the fxlrst I put the stage 1 ran like a top right off the show room now I just bought a fast johnny stock it's definitely choppy at a light I going to do the break in to 1000 miles and put the stage 1 on
What if you live in a state like CA where you can't get your motorcycle dyno tuned? For me the FP3 was my only option when I put a 2 into 1 on my Road Glide. It seems to run fine and has as much power as a stock 103 could hope to have. The engine was certainly broken in when I took the slip ons off and put the 2 into 1 on.
It’s funny you talk about this. Last week I saw a video about a guy’s new 2024 I think it was a 2024. Well it was new to him maybe a 2023 with low or no miles on it and I believe he said within the first few hundred miles the engine blew up. I believe he said the rod went through the case, Oil everywhere. In the comments a few other owners of the same model had similar issues He talks about break in period, and how he wasn’t getting on it very hard because they said take it easy first 1,000 miles then bring it in and they will change the oil mainly looking for metal particles in the oil. But it didn’t make it a few hundred miles.
No lugging, no redline, just vigorous midrange romping, from full throttle to trailing throttle. I take every new motor directly to the twisties, and romp. Never an oil burner.
Hmmmm…. My dealer told me to ride it like I stole it! Manufacturer manual says keep it under 4K RPMs for the first 500km then under 6K RPMs between 500-1000 kms. 🙄
Is Dyno tuning the best option sure, but your not going to ruin your motor running a canned tune from a reputable shop. My self and two buddies have well over 150k miles on stage 2 baggers with canned tune fron Fuel moto for our setups. All 3 bikes run very good all 3 have not had any engine issues.
The manufacturer gives specific guidance on breakin in the owners manual. They designed and built the bike. 0 to 50 miles, up to, do not exceed 3k RPMs. 50 to 500 miles, do not exceed 3500 RPMs. And NEVER hold a constant speed, such as on a interstate and avoid full throttle starts. Leave the bike stock during the breakin. As far as too rich or lean, that is why during breakin you adhere to the manufacturers recommend breakin.
I don’t think there’s anything wrong with manufacturer break in. But I don’t think it’s necessary and I don’t worry about it after 100 miles. To each their own.
I listen to the manufacturer"BECAUSE THE COMPUTERS can now detail RPMs, temperatures, miles at time of destruction! If you want them to pay you wait for breakin period to be over! If you're getting warranty breaking performance done, then sure listen to the builder.
The first 500 miles, I vary the RPMs up to 2500 RPM. The reason is that the piston rings need to seat against the cross hatch on the cylinder. Tolerances are very tight and the cross hatch will wear down, shaving small amounts metal into the oil and friction heat from tight new Tolerances. After this 500 process, I increase engine RPM so the rings reach higher up TDC and lower BDC to set ring ridge in the cylinder. If you don't set ring ridge, cylinder diameter at TDC and BDC will be smaller possibly breaking rings later. That's why some guys ride it like they stole it.
Breaking in a new motor needs a combo of high and low RPM's and heavy and light loads. To baby a new engine is not what I would do. Just one man's opinion.
Many, many videos have been done about engine break-ins and the conclusion is simple: Whether you ride it hard, or take it slow, it doesn't matter at all. What matters is: - Warm up your engine for 1 minute at least before using / riding it. - First 1000kms: Change your revs all the time, up and down and change up and down gears as much as possible - stay off the highway - First 1000kms: Do not baby the engine and never lug the engine The rest is a well-known Metallica song.
I asked the service dept on the 2024 CVO ST Road Glide, they use synthetic for the bike on delivery. It is suggested to change out to mineral breaking oil then?
If that engine is built correctly, it doesn't matter how you break it in. I've built engine for well over 40 years. The ones that are babied seem to have more issues than the ones that you back out of the garage and run it like you stole it.
I’m screwed. There aren’t any dyno’s in my area, and I had the dealer do a stage 2 before I even pick it up. Good to know my motor is probably gonna be shot lol
Biggest mistake you can make is not changing the oil until the 1st 1000 miles. As those rings and valves seat, metal is entering the oil. Any other contaminants that found their way into the engine during assembly are also washing around in that oil. That debris in the oil is doing more damage than bringing it over 4k RPM ever will. Get that 1st oil out at 100 miles and replace it with a non synthetic oil. Do the second oil change at 500 miles. After that, 3 hole systems like the Harley; every 3-4k miles. Single hole systems like the Indian: every 2500 to 3k miles. Don't be cheap with the oil.and filters. It's much more affordable than engine work. Can't go wrong with AMSOIL and WIX.
So…. Even if I don’t upgrade and leave my bike stock. Your saying I should dyno the bike bc the manufacturer didn’t put much time and effort into my bike to run at optimal?
Run it like you're gonna ride it ✊🏻
@@LUKEH79 i will do exactly that. Thank you dear sir love from India
I have had many bikes and new cars. I kinda go easy for the first 500 miles. Usually ride at different rpms. After 500miles its free sailing. Never had any issues at all in 50 years of buying new anything.
Exactly the same for myself. NEVER had a problem. My bud purchased a 2023 bike, couldn't resist the throttle, within the first 15 miles, he was bouncing the rev limiter😅. That bike ran like a champ . FACTORY freak. 😂
Me too. Cars , trucks, and bikes. Got my first bike 45 years ago! Never hurt me, to go by the manual. Never burned any crazy amount of oil, or any real issues...
I always listen to the manufacturer. Never had a problem with any bike.
Same here! 🤙
I go by the manual. To me, this comes directly from the engineers that built it. My road glide says 500 miles, to stay below 3500 rpms. Easy enough to do. The tech told me the same thing. Oil change at 1000. The tech Saud after the 500, do what ya want. I'm not going over 4k until after the first oil change. Get those metal chips out....idk. that's what I do
They dont't tell you to take it slowly for the engine health, but rather to avoid lawsuits of people ending up having accidents, because the proper way to brake in an engine is to let it warm up and then run it under heavy load and high rpm. The manufacturers even run the brand new bikes on the dyno to check if they make the advertised power and have any issues before shipping them out. So now after the bike has been brought to its limits, you have to ride it gentle? Make that make sense please.
@RuBa1Z Your money, your bike, do what ya want. I don't believe for a second, they tell you to stay under 3500 rpms, in any gear, to avoid accidents. That's ridiculous. Even the manager of the service department recommended that! I've owned SEVERAL motorcycles, cars and trucks, in my 60 years. Have you ever looked at the oil and drain plug magnet after 1000 miles? There's an awful lot of metal chips in there. If you want your stuff to last, listen to mechanics and the engineers that build the shit!
@@BobinNH You actually made a good point in the end to listen to the engineers, so let's forget about what a manager tells you, because he has no clue. The people that build the engines, measure every engine part to be a perfect fit and they say that it is crucial to run the engine hard in the first 20-30 miles in order to ensure the maximum power and longevity. If they wrote this in the manual, people would stress out not riding their bikes hard and fast enough, which would result in some people having accident because of it. Then the manufacturers would be held liable and that's why it ain't written in the manual.
Of course an engine gives off the most amount of metal particles when the engine is new because all the different bearings and rings have to adjust to eachother. That's why you change your oil multiple times in the first 1000 miles.
Now tell me please why the manufacturers are allowed to redline the bike in the factory but you "have" to baby it?
I have owned 4 Harleys and I always followed the dealers recommendation. It is an expensive investment and I didn't want to damage the bikes.
HD recommends a certain break in process for a reason...
Same@ImTheCVL
What I do :Ride it like u gonna ride it
Stay below 4k rpm for first 500
Don’t stay at same rpm
But get on it some
After 500 let it rip.
Bike runs great
So the manufacturer can run the bike on the dyno to its limits before shipping it out, but after that you have to take it gentle?
When I picked up my road king from Johnson engine technology in Mystic CT after a top end rebuild he said “run it however you want I broke it in on the dyno”. 20k miles later things still running like a song.
I did a lot of research when I rebuilt my TC 88, reviewed the motorman procedure among other break in procedures…
After seeing the crosshatch, and how the break in procedure uses the fresh cross hatch to oil and cut in to bed the rings, I felt the factory procedure would be more effective at setting the rings…
I followed the same procedure when I picked up my new ‘22 road glide 114. Over 20k miles now, no issues so far…
Under 3k rpm for the first 500, and then under 4500 until 1000 miles, vary speeds, no long highway runs…. after that, let her rip…
I bought a new 2019 street glide special towards the end of 2018. I followed the break in period and haven't had any problems. It now has 96k and purrs like a champ.
When I bought my 22 low rider st they said to ride it kinda easy but normal for the first five hundred miles. 12 hours later I took it up my Washington and had a blast with it sense. But I didn't baby it but I also didn't straight up beat it neither. I changed the oil at 1000 and it's all good. Have over 12k on it now
What pains me is, seeing people start their bike and beat on it while it still cold.
What pains me, is seeing you, in pain, from them……
Thst makes me sad also
How important is it to warm up the bike, and how long should it idle before riding hard (or at all)?
30 to 60 seconds idling is fine, and then 2 to 3 miles of riding easy and the cylinder temp will be up to the 180 degree range. At that point, the aluminum pistons, and steel cylinders, will have expanded to their proper operating clearances, and you can get hard on the throttle.
The cold engine damage typically occurs when you immediately run a cold engine hard. The aluminum pistons heat up and expand much quicker than the thick heavy steel cylinders, to the point where the pistons are scraping and scoring the sides of the cylinder walls.
Warming the bike up is important... at minimum, you should run the engine 30 seconds to allow oil to reach the top end. The bike should not be ridden aggressively until the engine is at operating temperature. Common sense.
I’ve never broken in a motor as recommended by the dealer. I’ve always taken them to their limits on the way home from the dealer once the engine was hot. Most of my life I built race engines for my street cars. I would run a new motor for about 20 minutes at around 1500-2000 rpm’s if new rings were installed or a new cam was installed. After a quick break in I would change the oil, checking the oil and oil filter for a metal. If all was good off to the track I went.
I kept my new bike at different RPM's and was told to ride it like you ride. Just try not to keep it and the same RPM's for any length of time. Never had an issue with my bikes
Big John I have owned 7 new HD bikes only had 1 dyno tuned all the others just rode them never had a problem most were traded with 40k
Dealer told me to keep my 24’ RG under 3500 for 500, then drive it like I stole it for the next 500, then bring it in for oil change. 3500rpm allowed me to pretty much raise minor Hell with it. Got to 80mph easily at 3500, so my break-in was plenty of fun.😊 That said, this video was informative!
The most important break in procedure is at the factory... managing heat cycles is very important. If you want longevity, break it in as per HD manual procedure. Change RPMs frequently, do not lug the engine and rev it to the max recommended RPM only for the first 500 and 1000 mile intervals. Change the oil and filter at 1000 miles and then ride as you please. Another crucial component that the M8s experience is too much crank case pressure. I immediately installed external head breathers and the Trask tranny vented cover. I have 1600 miles on my 107 and it blows damn near zero snot out of the heads and the Trask filter is clean. My engine does not burn noticeable oil. So far, so good. The procedure you speak of works just fine for race engines that get torn down and rebuilt every season. You will see race engines given a good amount of heat cycles before being run. This is the trick to proper ring seal. They also run significant crank case relief systems. I have read reviews on different break in procedures. And all of them showed that following the manufacturer's recommended procedure worked best for the long haul. Merry Christmas and stay safe in 2024 :-)
When I purchased my 2020 Road Glide off the showroom floor, I run the engine hard.
When I got about 500 miles on the engine, I did about a 2500 mile road trip.
Also I have a Cessna 172, last year I installed 6 brand new cylinders and pistons and rings.
The proper way to break in the cylinders is to fly full throttle for 2 hours on mineral oil. After this you’re good to go.
Why does it have to be mineral oil?
I left the dealer road the 12 miles to the interstate and promptly took it right to 110 MPH in 5th gear then 6th and slowed back to 70 to 60 back to 80 back to 60 back to 100 and did that the 45 mile ride home. motor been fine for the last 19K miles
I’ve always followed the motto of if you want a fast motor you break it in fast. I did this with my 107 street glide and I swear it rips harder than some 114s
Bought a new RoadGlide in 2008. I broke it in by heat cycling. Put a set of Andrew 21 cams with a heavy breather from Harley. I still own the bike. I’ve put 102,000 miles on it, runs like a top and doesn’t use oil.
Brother what a great resource, that was a great teach and I’m with you. I’ll listen to the builders. You made all the sense in the world. Now my Part 2 for you. How would you address/handle a slightly used bike, say a 2022 Road Glide, you just bought with less than 2,500 miles on it? You have no real idea how it was broke in or was it at all, or was it overdone; only going by what you were told. If your plan was to do a big bore stage whatever, then you break in the correct way with the upgrade. But if one has no plans for a big bore, but maybe just upgrade to a Stage 2, then do you just hope for the best, or take it to your guy to pull things apart to examine as much, and determine your path from that point forward.
I’ve owned 7 plus brand new Harley-Davidson Motorcycles and I’ve never experienced any issues with any bike. They all ran perfectly consistently since I know how to ride properly.
Also, I break in a new engine the exact way I ride. If you ride too slow the pistons will seal lower than you typically ride. Just ride it how you normally would considering you know how to properly ride beforehand.
I don't over Rev it and I don't lug it. Listen to the motor
Harley test there bikes hard they are good motors
My Master Mechanic dad says adhere to the manufacturer recommendation. I've always done that and have yet to have a problem.
Are you offering a warranty with your title claim?
Use to build car race motors. If it did not ring seal with in the first 20-30 minutes it never will. Best to use high ZINC content oil for break-in.
my dealer for the first 500 miles keep it under 70, tire air 40 front 40 rear. easy on the gears.
I keep it under 4000 RPMs while in the dealer parking LOL I left Bergan with my new bike and brought it directly to my
mechanic for cam pipes tuner and dyno tune.
Haha hell yeah 👍
Lacking an overriding perspective, I follow manufacturer recommendations
When I did both of my stage 4 bikes I was told to be easy on them for the first 500 miles. I think I obeyed that for like the first 150 miles. Not an issue once. My bikes run like a freaking Cheetah. 😂🎉. I do suggest to always do the S&S guardian kit on big bores.
And this is why HD says that using up to a quart of oil every 1500 miles is “normal”. Easy break in, poor ring seal, and its an oil burner for life. But as long as it makes it through warranty, HD doesn’t care.
I just bought a 2024 rg, they told me 1000 mile break in period, dont beat the hell out of it, dont be afriad to ride it, but what they really dont want you to do is get on the highway and set the cruise control for three hours. They want you to spend the first 1000 miles on a country road where you are changing rpms and shifting a lot. They didn't tell me there was a rev or speed limit.
Fantastic Video, I Have Not Been Easy On A Engine Brake In. From My First New Mini Bike, In 1966 To My 2016 TriGlide. Be Safe,And Stay Healthy, And Have A Groovy Day.
You do you I'll break my engines in the same way I've done it over 35.
I listen to the motor and the motor only! It will loosen up and start running cooler. Then after I change the oil out I will start rolling on the power ASAP. Usually around 1,000 miles on the clock. Until them keep shifting gears no long sustained mph and a lot of cooling off and warming up on rides.
I have never had a motorbike engine fail on me except a two stroke in my early years which siesed and a honda which sounded bad and no matter how many tomes i took it to the dealership he would just say oh you dont like singles. That bike had a recall for the bearings and they never di the work i traded it and it broke down soon after bring sold. The bike store was pissed who sold it to me as they had grief from the store i traded in with as they had not done the recall work which was the failure i was hearing. Every other bike has been fantastic engine wise. No matter if i bought it new or second hand. Lets face it a lot of bikes are bought second hand who knows how they were run in mostly you have only service records to go by and the bikes overall condition. I would say the most important thing you can do for your engine is chage the fluids regularly ie oil and coolant.
Harley dealers in vegas will perform a break in dyno tune when new. Only a couple hours on dyno. Then at 1000 miles a full 6-7 hours Dyno tune.
When my engine was built, the engine builder told me ride it like your going to ride it. the dyno guy already rodded the hell out of it on the dyno. My new bikes I usually drive 500 miles nice and gentle not over 3000 rpms, then change oil and ride it like I stole it.
This is what the dealer told me. I’m at 350 miles in 4 days i just want to open it up ….. 23 road glide st
Update from my last post. I just got my first service done. 1500kms, not quite the 1600 or 1000miles, but close enough. The first 40-50 miles, I adhered to just taking it easy and not romping it or exceeding 100kph/60mph. After that, I guess you could say I halfass hard broke it in. I really worked the motor. Rolling on good, rolling off. Engine braking. Playing with the rpms and gears in the 3000-3500 range. On the highway, fed it good throttle, rolled off. Did that a bunch, rolled on hard, shifted. Stuff like that. Only odd thing was that apparently I lost a manifold bolt upon inspection at the dealer for the service? lol.
I bought my 2023 road glide st brand new on the test ride they told me go out and give her hell see how u like it... after I brought it back and decided to buy it they said keep it under 3500 rpm for the first 500 miles... I'm like u just told me to give it hell now your telling me to take it easy I was like well glad it's got a warrenty
Never listed to the dealer. Bought it. And put it on the jack as soon as I got it home.
Plain and simple. Don’t beat on it cold. Break it in the way you’re going to ride it.
Excellent video John and SOOOO informative!!! I think I've heard this from every dealership I've bought a bike from - regardless of the brand. I'm betting they say this as a liability thing.
Thanks Toby
I DIDN'T LISTEN TO THE DEALER WHEN I GOT MY SECOND BIKE, THE SUMMER OF 97. BOUGHT A 1997 GIXXER 750SRAD BLUE AND WHITE. WHEN I GOT ON THE E-WAY GOING HOME WITH IT, I GOT UP IT TO 110MPH LOL. I ROAD HER HARD FROM THAT DAY ON THE WHOLE SUMMER WITHOUT ANY MECHANICAL ISSUES WITH THE MOTOR OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE BIKE. OH, I BURNT THE CLUTCH OUT THE NEXT SUMMER, RACING AND DOING BURNOUTS😂😂
Thanks for another good video and especially this one as there are so many people that get this wrong. Every street bike I have ever had from new I ride it like how I would normally which is on the more aggressive side of riding. Only 2 rules I try to keep is not to red line it and avoid a steady RPM for the first 500-800 KMS and then drop my oil. So far very bike I have ever owned I haven't had any issues with.
In the words of Ryan F9, “You paid for the whole tachometer. Use it.” The engineering is supposed to run the engine at all rpms, so use all rpms.
That Trask window looks SIIIIIIICCCCCKKKKK on that Evolution. Cheers
2023 HD Nightster RH975.
Dealer said keep it under 4k RPM. This bike doesn't redline until 9k. I submit that as long as I didn't run at a constant RPM it is better to vary the RPM's across the entire band.
How do you perform an immediate dyno tune, without voiding the warranty on a new bike? Serious question.
You can't... and, finding a good dyno tuner can be difficult. I have seen the results of poorly dyno tuned bikes. In Commiefornia where I live, the EPA cracked down on dealerships for selling aftermarket tuners even though they were meant for offroading only. I cannot legally obtain an aftermarket tuner out of state as retailers are prohibited from shipping to this state.
Watching this video again…wow.
I've never heard of anyone recommending 1500, 2000, 3000 miles break-in. I've never heard of it exceeding 600-800 miles and do a break-in oil change and do whatever you want after that.
I just ride mine like I always do...I don't beat it but I don't baby it either.
I ride like I always do rev it up. Like your windshield wiper start up slow they will always have a skip. Start fast never skips.
The dealer doesn’t matter. How hard is it to read and follow the owner’s manual? You don’t want to follow the manufacturer then don’t worry about your warranty.
There’s a reason they put it in the manual. It’s like putting “caution hot” on your coffee cup. When they plug in the bike to the diagnostic computer, they know how you ridden it. Also not everyone can buy a 30k bike, then put another 20k in it. If they made high performance derby cover bolts, you would buy it.
Maybe you could do a video on what to look for when buying used bikes? Because I seriously doubt I will ever pay what the motor co. is asking for new bikes.
I keep rpm’s at decently low like max 4-5000 for around first 500 miles
Thx for this video man! I will take my (first) new motorcycle in the next few days so I'm trying to find out as much info as possible about this topic. So many different opinions and ideas but this thing is serious! In most serious videos I've found so far they say the same thing, the bike needs to be ridden through different rpm. The fact that it's not necessary to wait for 1000 or 2000 miles it's more good news to me!
Btw, just found your channel, the algorithm suggested yours when I tried to find videos for breaking-in bikes so I appreciate your info.
A "break-in oil change at 500-600 miles on new or freshly built motor is very important. Beyond that with modern engines, the other important things are not to stay at any sustained rpm for long periods of time and try hard to avoid running the bike for short periods where it doesn't get up to full operating temp, for the first 1000miles.
@@williamlyons3947 What? HD's quality issues are far behind them and on top of that most of the performance engine builders build to standards and tolerances far beyond any manufacturer. Not doing a break-in to ANY new engine is just plain stupid. Before you write something about me being an HD fanboy or some such nonsense. I ride Honda Goldwing Tour and a Suzuki DRz400s
Makes sense to me. What's your take on Thundermax tuner on a new HD engine. Think you need a tuner to tune it still?
Ride it like you stole it! Always worked for me!
Man so as my 128 was put on. I was running right out of Black Gold Harley Davidson parking lot. It’s in the video lol 😂 on my build.
Initial break in procedure may only be needed for first 30 miles on some bikes but you’re insane if you are trying to convince anyone that all bikes and engines are fully broken in after that and I don’t care who your buddies are, what they build or how they dyno.
I often end up with a completely different running bike at 1000 miles than it was at 100 and there is nothing wrong with playing it safe during this time of constant changes.
Because it’s not just about break-in you are also looking for any manufacturing flaws that could be minor now but will become catastrophic if not caught early on before riding hard.
RTFM.
Proper warm up procedure every time.
Take longer rides while varying the speed, rpm’s, shift points and terrain.
Use some decent engine braking and hard acceleration but not excessive and no lugging or tractoring dirt bikes yet.
Don’t beat the living snot out of gear box and clutch doing stunts or redline the engine yet and change oil and filter every 200-300 miles first few times.
After 400 to 600 miles if everything seems fine then start letting her have it any way she wants it.
What kinda oil are you using
😊❤ I'm from millfield and I like your videos keep them up I'm from Milford Ohio buddy I'm from the old legend
I’ve never babied my street glide, ride it like your gonna ride it..
So curious, when do you recommend dropping the break in oil? After how many miles?
My gut says bring up any internal combustion engine to operating temperature before laying into it regardless of it's age / total hours / miles. Other than that, I try my best to get in 2-3 heat cycles before pushing it. I've also gone full boost / wot with less than 50 miles on a mustang Coyote engine after being fitted with upgraded pistons / rods etc. No problems. I also just bought a brand new Kawi ZH2 and it'd been in the 140mph range several times before it reached 80 miles lol. I was however up to operating temp.
I got the fxlrst I put the stage 1 ran like a top right off the show room now I just bought a fast johnny stock it's definitely choppy at a light I going to do the break in to 1000 miles and put the stage 1 on
There's probably a few demo ride miles on the new Harley you buy. Would this be a big enough factor to ensure you get a 0 mile bike?
What if you live in a state like CA where you can't get your motorcycle dyno tuned? For me the FP3 was my only option when I put a 2 into 1 on my Road Glide. It seems to run fine and has as much power as a stock 103 could hope to have. The engine was certainly broken in when I took the slip ons off and put the 2 into 1 on.
It’s funny you talk about this.
Last week I saw a video about a guy’s new 2024 I think it was a 2024. Well it was new to him maybe a 2023 with low or no miles on it and I believe he said within the first few hundred miles the engine blew up.
I believe he said the rod went through the case, Oil everywhere.
In the comments a few other owners of the same model had similar issues
He talks about break in period, and how he wasn’t getting on it very hard because they said take it easy first 1,000 miles then bring it in and they will change the oil mainly looking for metal particles in the oil.
But it didn’t make it a few hundred miles.
Yep that's what we do about 100 miles with cheap drag oil then the shaffer's goes in and we Ride!
Have always followed what is said in the HD Manual
No lugging, no redline, just vigorous midrange romping, from full throttle to trailing throttle. I take every new motor directly to the twisties, and romp. Never an oil burner.
So what's the proper oils to use for the engine, prime and trans?
Amsoil IMHO is the best. Purchase the proper viscosity recommended for your make and model.
Hmmmm…. My dealer told me to ride it like I stole it! Manufacturer manual says keep it under 4K RPMs for the first 500km then under 6K RPMs between 500-1000 kms. 🙄
Is Dyno tuning the best option sure, but your not going to ruin your motor running a canned tune from a reputable shop. My self and two buddies have well over 150k miles on stage 2 baggers with canned tune fron Fuel moto for our setups. All 3 bikes run very good all 3 have not had any engine issues.
John-another terrific video. Love your work!
The manufacturer gives specific guidance on breakin in the owners manual. They designed and built the bike. 0 to 50 miles, up to, do not exceed 3k RPMs. 50 to 500 miles, do not exceed 3500 RPMs. And NEVER hold a constant speed, such as on a interstate and avoid full throttle starts. Leave the bike stock during the breakin. As far as too rich or lean, that is why during breakin you adhere to the manufacturers recommend breakin.
I don’t think there’s anything wrong with manufacturer break in. But I don’t think it’s necessary and I don’t worry about it after 100 miles. To each their own.
I listen to the manufacturer"BECAUSE THE COMPUTERS can now detail RPMs, temperatures, miles at time of destruction! If you want them to pay you wait for breakin period to be over! If you're getting warranty breaking performance done, then sure listen to the builder.
The first 500 miles, I vary the RPMs up to 2500 RPM. The reason is that the piston rings need to seat against the cross hatch on the cylinder. Tolerances are very tight and the cross hatch will wear down, shaving small amounts metal into the oil and friction heat from tight new Tolerances. After this 500 process, I increase engine RPM so the rings reach higher up TDC and lower BDC to set ring ridge in the cylinder. If you don't set ring ridge, cylinder diameter at TDC and BDC will be smaller possibly breaking rings later. That's why some guys ride it like they stole it.
So why doesn't the factory or dealer give you the bike with dino oil? Or do they? Hmm
Breaking in a new motor needs a combo of high and low RPM's and heavy and light loads. To baby a new engine is not what I would do. Just one man's opinion.
Many, many videos have been done about engine break-ins and the conclusion is simple: Whether you ride it hard, or take it slow, it doesn't matter at all.
What matters is:
- Warm up your engine for 1 minute at least before using / riding it.
- First 1000kms: Change your revs all the time, up and down and change up and down gears as much as possible - stay off the highway
- First 1000kms: Do not baby the engine and never lug the engine
The rest is a well-known Metallica song.
I think the quality of the oil has come a long way and has a hand in the break in process.
7 hogs, never tuned any of them. Never had an issue with any.
I listen till about 500 miles lmfao
IF A certain builder built me a motor. Id listen to him. ( AND HAVE HIM WARRANTY IT) If Harley Davidson built my motor...Ill listen to them. Nuf said?
I asked the service dept on the 2024 CVO ST Road Glide, they use synthetic for the bike on delivery. It is suggested to change out to mineral breaking oil then?
Yes, you should definitely do your first service and put the recommended oil in
Lucas oil 10700 high perf SAE 20W50 motorcycle oil be appropriate?
Ride it like you stole it day 1!
My 72 yr old riding buddy said “if u wanna break da engine in…just ride da mutha-funker!!”😂
On the pipe !!
If that engine is built correctly, it doesn't matter how you break it in. I've built engine for well over 40 years. The ones that are babied seem to have more issues than the ones that you back out of the garage and run it like you stole it.
I’m screwed. There aren’t any dyno’s in my area, and I had the dealer do a stage 2 before I even pick it up. Good to know my motor is probably gonna be shot lol
Biggest mistake you can make is not changing the oil until the 1st 1000 miles. As those rings and valves seat, metal is entering the oil. Any other contaminants that found their way into the engine during assembly are also washing around in that oil. That debris in the oil is doing more damage than bringing it over 4k RPM ever will. Get that 1st oil out at 100 miles and replace it with a non synthetic oil. Do the second oil change at 500 miles. After that, 3 hole systems like the Harley; every 3-4k miles. Single hole systems like the Indian: every 2500 to 3k miles. Don't be cheap with the oil.and filters. It's much more affordable than engine work. Can't go wrong with AMSOIL and WIX.
Nc in da house
So…. Even if I don’t upgrade and leave my bike stock. Your saying I should dyno the bike bc the manufacturer didn’t put much time and effort into my bike to run at optimal?
Might be a dumb question but I am a new bike owner 2024 road glide im in the middle of the break in period and I have no clue about anything.
I just bought my first brand new bike and they told me to go through all the different rpms
The dealer told me keep under 3k rpm for the first 500 miles but be surebto shift through all the gears