It looks like the Carpro Hydro O2 has a better sheeting effect. The panels with Gyeon had more water beads remaining where the Carpro had a slower repellency but left the panel more dry.
It appears that way initially but the Gyeon will hold on to its performance for longer. Also, regardless of beading or sheeting characteristics, you should dry your car after washing if you care about water spotting.
@@sheepstardetail I agree with you about drying the car after washing. My concern is water spots that will remain when your car is left out in the rain and you don't have a chance to dry it. My gut tells me Gyeon is going to be more prone to water spotting. I favor sheeting > beading. The less I have to do to maintain my coating, the better. The less water beads that remain on a panel, the better. Again, that's just my preference. I appreciate you displaying the products side by side.
@@pasqualepisani very true, and where you live will play a big role in which product is better for you. I happen to live where water is soft and water spotting isn’t an issue, but I know that’s not the case for many people. If you want something that sheets and is economical the turtle wax wax and dry is a good option. If you have a coated car though I would use something like Carpro, Gyeon, or TAC System as they are designed to play nice with a SiO2 base.
Hydro looked dryer to me which is important too. Especially after driving in the rain, beading that doesn't leave the panels will dry and the accumulated dirt and grime picked up on the sides and rear of cars will tend to remain there. I use Wet Coat myself.
Yeah it all depends really. Some argue that the products that start out sheeting will slow down faster than ones that bead (beads turn to sheets, which then slows down). It all really depends on how long the water movements lasts, and through how much dirt. If a beading car self cleans better, it will still be overall cleaner than a car that sheets but repels less - it might just look dirtier.
@@sheepstardetail for me. After I wash the car and I drive out in the rain and go home. Next day, the sides of the car and rear of the car have dirty spots / film. So I’m not sure if a product that has more sheeting action can mitigate that. I have a coating that’s lost hydrophobicity on the sides and rear so perhaps that's why it's not running off as easily. Hence the use of wet coat to top it off. But even then it's the same result. I think it's a normal thing coated or not to have the sides and rear dirty after driving in the rain. Coatings aren't bulletproof.
@@MarcYanOfficial oh yeah, but what I’m saying is hydrophobics drop off. So if you start with more, you go longer before it slows. Have you tried using a mineral remover, fallout or tar?
Good test 👍👍👍 I have noticed that CarPro HydrO2 Lite sometimes performs better after the first maintenance wash. Maybe some residuals are removed 🤷♂️ Never tested it side by side with WetCoat though, but I will next time I wash 🙂
Thanks for the video! Have you tried applying Turtle Wax Seal n Shine or TW Ceramic Spray Coating as a spray and rinse? Would love to see you do a video on this. I've done this on two cars while wet and I was pleasantly surprised at the instant beading effect it created on semi-dead paint. I experimented even further and wet a MF towel, wrung it out then sprayed a few sprays onto the wet towel and wiped it over each panel while wet. Then I rinsed it. Just as good if not an ever so slightly better result. I even did the spray and rinse method with Seal n Shine on wheels and it also worked great. The interesting thing for me was I was using Nanoskin Supercharger before because it was so ridiculously cheap. As you know this is their version of Wetcoat/HyrdO2. And in my opinion, TW provided a much better beading effect than the Nanoskin. Since TW is pretty cheap also and available locally, it seems like a great economical choice, especially being used in this method.
I am a big fan of TW Seal N Shine but I have not used it in the way you just describes. Thanks for sharing this tip. I will try it out for myself next weekend.
I only made up enough to do my tests using a small spray bottle, so I have lots left (future testing). You should be able to make 1.5 liters of WetCoat level solution with the small bottle.
Concentrated formula, if used correctly with a 1:6 mixture of 60ml of Carpro should last as long as 6 months per application. This information comes directly from the bottle. This is not how it was used in this video however.
If you have a jet setting that would be ideal. They sometimes require quiet a thorough rinsing to remove the excess which is why pressure washers work best. You’ll most likely be going over the car quite a few times before it’s all rinsed off
I would check out some reviews from dmitry’s garage as he does some UV testing. TLDR; not worth choosing any paint protection product over another based on UV protection claims.
You didn't follow the directions so you can't say it's a proper comparison. Regardless of the mixture, you didn't use it as the manufacture intended so this comparison isn't a comparison. You made up your own rules. lol.
Sorry what? I made both the minimum and maximum strengths of each product, and they were both applied to the panel using spray and rinse, as well as spray and wipe. If you don’t agree with the results please make a video showing your results and I’ll have a look. Don’t question my methods or accuracy, I purchased both of these products and used them multiple times before drawing my conclusion.
Potentially. I find products that start with sheeting don’t last as long as beading products. The beading products will eventually slow to sheeting too which makes me gravitate towards beading products. (I also just like beads).
It looks like the Carpro Hydro O2 has a better sheeting effect. The panels with Gyeon had more water beads remaining where the Carpro had a slower repellency but left the panel more dry.
It appears that way initially but the Gyeon will hold on to its performance for longer.
Also, regardless of beading or sheeting characteristics, you should dry your car after washing if you care about water spotting.
@@sheepstardetail I agree with you about drying the car after washing. My concern is water spots that will remain when your car is left out in the rain and you don't have a chance to dry it. My gut tells me Gyeon is going to be more prone to water spotting. I favor sheeting > beading. The less I have to do to maintain my coating, the better. The less water beads that remain on a panel, the better. Again, that's just my preference. I appreciate you displaying the products side by side.
@@pasqualepisani very true, and where you live will play a big role in which product is better for you. I happen to live where water is soft and water spotting isn’t an issue, but I know that’s not the case for many people. If you want something that sheets and is economical the turtle wax wax and dry is a good option. If you have a coated car though I would use something like Carpro, Gyeon, or TAC System as they are designed to play nice with a SiO2 base.
Hydro looked dryer to me which is important too. Especially after driving in the rain, beading that doesn't leave the panels will dry and the accumulated dirt and grime picked up on the sides and rear of cars will tend to remain there. I use Wet Coat myself.
Yeah it all depends really. Some argue that the products that start out sheeting will slow down faster than ones that bead (beads turn to sheets, which then slows down). It all really depends on how long the water movements lasts, and through how much dirt. If a beading car self cleans better, it will still be overall cleaner than a car that sheets but repels less - it might just look dirtier.
@@sheepstardetail for me. After I wash the car and I drive out in the rain and go home. Next day, the sides of the car and rear of the car have dirty spots / film. So I’m not sure if a product that has more sheeting action can mitigate that.
I have a coating that’s lost hydrophobicity on the sides and rear so perhaps that's why it's not running off as easily. Hence the use of wet coat to top it off. But even then it's the same result.
I think it's a normal thing coated or not to have the sides and rear dirty after driving in the rain. Coatings aren't bulletproof.
@@MarcYanOfficial oh yeah, but what I’m saying is hydrophobics drop off. So if you start with more, you go longer before it slows.
Have you tried using a mineral remover, fallout or tar?
I use HydrO2 with 5:1 ratio and it works fine with no wipe. Definitely will try gyeon in the future.
Yeah, but at 3 times the concentration, you’ll burn through it way faster than the Gyeon.
Good test 👍👍👍
I have noticed that CarPro HydrO2 Lite sometimes performs better after the first maintenance wash. Maybe some residuals are removed 🤷♂️
Never tested it side by side with WetCoat though, but I will next time I wash 🙂
Both are incredible products
Wet coat Essenese at 1:15 seems to be value to me. The 250ml bottle can make a gallon at 1:15.
Yeah, it’s quite versatile. I’m not sure I would pre-make that much, I don’t if it has a shelf life after being mixed.
@@sheepstardetail I wouldn’t make that much either. I guess I’ll try to make 1000ml to try it out.
It maybe the footage but it really looks like Wet Coat leaves a nicer, more jetted finish too?
I haven’t looked closely at either to be honest. Really hard to check gloss with spray and rinse.
i prefer carpro here
Gyeon essence is amazing 👏
Thanks for the video! Have you tried applying Turtle Wax Seal n Shine or TW Ceramic Spray Coating as a spray and rinse? Would love to see you do a video on this. I've done this on two cars while wet and I was pleasantly surprised at the instant beading effect it created on semi-dead paint. I experimented even further and wet a MF towel, wrung it out then sprayed a few sprays onto the wet towel and wiped it over each panel while wet. Then I rinsed it. Just as good if not an ever so slightly better result.
I even did the spray and rinse method with Seal n Shine on wheels and it also worked great. The interesting thing for me was I was using Nanoskin Supercharger before because it was so ridiculously cheap. As you know this is their version of Wetcoat/HyrdO2. And in my opinion, TW provided a much better beading effect than the Nanoskin.
Since TW is pretty cheap also and available locally, it seems like a great economical choice, especially being used in this method.
I haven’t, but I have both of those so I can do a video comparing them to wet coat essence.
I just picked up the regular turtle wax wax and dry spray, will add that to the video as well. Should have it down in the next few days hopefully
I am a big fan of TW Seal N Shine but I have not used it in the way you just describes. Thanks for sharing this tip. I will try it out for myself next weekend.
Wet Coat Essence is insane here.How long did the 1 tiny bottle last you?
It went over a month if memory serves me well. On top of a coating/ceramic based product it should do better.
I only made up enough to do my tests using a small spray bottle, so I have lots left (future testing). You should be able to make 1.5 liters of WetCoat level solution with the small bottle.
Good test
Where did you get the wet coat Essence? I’ve looked before but couldn’t find it without crazy shipping
Www.Carzilla.ca
@@sheepstardetail CarZilla for the win
How long do they each last?
I’m not sure, I had Essence on my car for a couple months and it was still beading and sheeting, wouldn’t expect more than that
Concentrated formula, if used correctly with a 1:6 mixture of 60ml of Carpro should last as long as 6 months per application. This information comes directly from the bottle. This is not how it was used in this video however.
Does it have to be rinsed off with a high power pressure washer or will a normal hose pipe at mains pressure be OK?
If you have a jet setting that would be ideal. They sometimes require quiet a thorough rinsing to remove the excess which is why pressure washers work best. You’ll most likely be going over the car quite a few times before it’s all rinsed off
Hydro has UV protection and wet coat doesn’t
I would check out some reviews from dmitry’s garage as he does some UV testing. TLDR; not worth choosing any paint protection product over another based on UV protection claims.
You didn't follow the directions so you can't say it's a proper comparison. Regardless of the mixture, you didn't use it as the manufacture intended so this comparison isn't a comparison. You made up your own rules. lol.
Sorry what? I made both the minimum and maximum strengths of each product, and they were both applied to the panel using spray and rinse, as well as spray and wipe. If you don’t agree with the results please make a video showing your results and I’ll have a look. Don’t question my methods or accuracy, I purchased both of these products and used them multiple times before drawing my conclusion.
Actually the Carpro sheeted off more so, thus less water spotting
Potentially. I find products that start with sheeting don’t last as long as beading products. The beading products will eventually slow to sheeting too which makes me gravitate towards beading products. (I also just like beads).
Gyeon looks better. Carpro products are hyped. All the ones I have used have not impressed me