Quick question if you're rebuilding your motor like I am I'm replacing that thrust bearing because that's all that's wrong with mine where did you get your bed plate or main cap bolts at? Because they're a torque to yield and they're not reusable
im about to be doing a full engine rebuild with rods pistons strap kit and balence shaft delete dude this video is amazing for it thanks! keep them coming
Hey brother! If possible do you have a break-down on how much an OEM+ refresh would cost? In terms of machine work, parts, and just assembling long-block? Mine is ready for a rebuild OEM+ route is my goal.
The machine work just for the engine is ruffing around $1000 that will depend from shop to shop. the parts for mine were around $1400. I went with everything oem. You can save money just depends what you’re goal is.
@@stagedracing8150 Thanks for details. I have a couple awesome SRT-4 builders here locally in Phoenix, AZ, that are going to help with building. I have a decent source for hot-tank, machine work, and valve seal installation for roughly $460. I'm going to source OEM rings, mains, and rod bearings. Modern full seal kit, and have a gentlemen assemble it for me for $1,000. Hoping this route should be a damn reliable build. (my goals are 400WHP little over 400wtq) just because the nature of our 2.4 designs, of course. I genuinely appreciate you getting back with me man. Thank you again.
I might of missed it, but I didn't hear you mention anything about bearing clearances. What are your main bearing clearances, and how much end play do you have on your thrust bearing?
The machine shop checked all the clearances for the mains and rods. The end play I did it off camera. I don’t remember off the top of my head but the link should take you to the FSM. And it’s all I there.
@Staged Racing stock motors are good for about 400ish before a stock rod fails, so I'm sure it will be fine then. You already have the strap kit, why not push it to its limit? Also, what are you using for a windage tray? Now that the balance shafts are deleted, you should have a windage tray in there.
@@friedelectronics I know the engines are good for 400 hp but I need it to be reliable to do 20 minute sessions multiple times over a track weekend. that’s one of the reasons I got the strap kit to make sure it’s just extra insurance for the engine. I have a second engine that is gonna get all the bells and whistle’s but just not at this moment. .
@@stagedracing8150 I'm just doing a straight overhaul on this and replacing that stupid freaking thrust bearing that's all that's wrong with this motor and you can't buy the bolts for it that's stupid add my local Chrysler dealer check there's a place in Kentucky that has one bolt 🙄 thanks for the info but I'm not doing like a hot rod motor or anything like what you're doing
Look, I hate to be "current year man," but it's 2022 not 1992. The 8:1 stock compression ratio is fine. It's the probably the best choice for most people. People run 50 trim sized turbos in the 21-23 psi on CA pump gas piss water on stock blocks and they live just fine. Provided they have a decent tune.
That’s why I’m doing the stock piston’s for now. That’s until I decide I need more power on the bigger more open tracks so I agree with you. That’s why I’m confused about the 2022 not 1992 comment ?
@@stagedracing8150 The old school way to build a safe turbo engine was to drop the compression way low. That, old school turbos, and primitive EFI made early 4G63's, non-Vtec Hondas, early 2JZ's, 7M's, etc feel sluggish under boost and lazy to get to the boost threshold. People just went to with worked at the time, which was dropping compression to something like 7.5:1 on an engine that in NA form was around 10:1. It was seemingly just the go to advice, even on engines that were factory turbocharged, drop the compression and raise the boost. Tuning, materials, and technology have come a long way since then.
Hey bro, I HIGHLY recommend you remove the DCR direct fit kit. The brass set screws you tighten into the bedplate create pressure points on the bedplate. Any detonation or engine harmonics will cause the bedplate to crack. Unfortunately I had it happen to me. Cracked the bedplate, crank moved, and cracked my oil pump and shot the tone wheel out the oil pan. The direct fit kit is a complete gimmick and provides absolutely no support to the bedplate. You have to machine the bedplate and use the correct straps to have actual support.
@themoparman94 what if tone wheel was cause? How do you know it was strap kit. I know the tone wheel bolts like to loosen up sometimes maybe that happened? No clue I’m curious
@@TheMoparman94 yea I agree, that would cause lot more damage too. Was ur motor rebuilt? When did it crack. I think bad tune even without a strap kit and taking out balance shaft assembly would crack bedplate too
As someone who is about to start an all OEM+ style srt4 swap into a coupe I’m loving your videos.
Thanks man! We will do our best to keep them coming.
Thanks for the love brother! I wasn't expecting that! haha
Any time man!
Can’t wait for more videos like this!! I love watching TH-cam videos on engine rebuilds.
Hell yeah man!!!!!
I added a link to all the parts used on the video & the service manual
Rebuilding my first engine right now and it's an srt4 thanks for the info
Quick question if you're rebuilding your motor like I am I'm replacing that thrust bearing because that's all that's wrong with mine where did you get your bed plate or main cap bolts at? Because they're a torque to yield and they're not reusable
im about to be doing a full engine rebuild with rods pistons strap kit and balence shaft delete dude this video is amazing for it thanks! keep them coming
Thanks man we appreciate it
Do not use the DCR direct fit trash. Machine strap kits only!
We’re I can get the link for don’t have the issue whit the bearing dry out part of the video 10:45min to 11:00min
I don’t have a link for it. But I think sptuning.com sells them
i have a 05 nsrt4 would the 04 manual still be accurate to that car? im new to the neon platform so forgive me if its a dumb question.
Not a dumb question Noah, yes it should all work buddy.
Hey brother! If possible do you have a break-down on how much an OEM+ refresh would cost? In terms of machine work, parts, and just assembling long-block? Mine is ready for a rebuild OEM+ route is my goal.
The machine work just for the engine is ruffing around $1000 that will depend from shop to shop. the parts for mine were around $1400. I went with everything oem. You can save money just depends what you’re goal is.
@@stagedracing8150 Thanks for details. I have a couple awesome SRT-4 builders here locally in Phoenix, AZ, that are going to help with building. I have a decent source for hot-tank, machine work, and valve seal installation for roughly $460. I'm going to source OEM rings, mains, and rod bearings. Modern full seal kit, and have a gentlemen assemble it for me for $1,000. Hoping this route should be a damn reliable build. (my goals are 400WHP little over 400wtq) just because the nature of our 2.4 designs, of course.
I genuinely appreciate you getting back with me man. Thank you again.
I might of missed it, but I didn't hear you mention anything about bearing clearances. What are your main bearing clearances, and how much end play do you have on your thrust bearing?
The machine shop checked all the clearances for the mains and rods. The end play I did it off camera. I don’t remember off the top of my head but the link should take you to the FSM. And it’s all I there.
@Staged Racing what is your hp goal for this engine? If it's a stock rebuild, then it's fine.
@@friedelectronics 325ish
@Staged Racing stock motors are good for about 400ish before a stock rod fails, so I'm sure it will be fine then. You already have the strap kit, why not push it to its limit?
Also, what are you using for a windage tray? Now that the balance shafts are deleted, you should have a windage tray in there.
@@friedelectronics I know the engines are good for 400 hp but I need it to be reliable to do 20 minute sessions multiple times over a track weekend. that’s one of the reasons I got the strap kit to make sure it’s just extra insurance for the engine. I have a second engine that is gonna get all the bells and whistle’s but just not at this moment.
.
Hi I'm redoing mine where did you get your main cap bolts at?
bolts at
It came with the DCR strap kit
@@stagedracing8150 I'm just doing a straight overhaul on this and replacing that stupid freaking thrust bearing that's all that's wrong with this motor and you can't buy the bolts for it that's stupid add my local Chrysler dealer check there's a place in Kentucky that has one bolt 🙄 thanks for the info but I'm not doing like a hot rod motor or anything like what you're doing
Que marca y modelo de juntas usaste para la cabeza ?
MOPAR gasket kit for Srt-4 Modernperformance.com
Will those crankshaft caps fit the srt caliber as well?
No they will not
No they will not
Where did you get your rebuild parts? I need to rebuild mine but not wanting to go the $2,000 route for forged internals
I got all the rebuild stuff from modernperformance.com . I had good used OEM pistons and rods I used
Look, I hate to be "current year man," but it's 2022 not 1992. The 8:1 stock compression ratio is fine. It's the probably the best choice for most people. People run 50 trim sized turbos in the 21-23 psi on CA pump gas piss water on stock blocks and they live just fine. Provided they have a decent tune.
That’s why I’m doing the stock piston’s for now. That’s until I decide I need more power on the bigger more open tracks so I agree with you. That’s why I’m confused about the 2022 not 1992 comment ?
@@stagedracing8150 The old school way to build a safe turbo engine was to drop the compression way low. That, old school turbos, and primitive EFI made early 4G63's, non-Vtec Hondas, early 2JZ's, 7M's, etc feel sluggish under boost and lazy to get to the boost threshold. People just went to with worked at the time, which was dropping compression to something like 7.5:1 on an engine that in NA form was around 10:1. It was seemingly just the go to advice, even on engines that were factory turbocharged, drop the compression and raise the boost. Tuning, materials, and technology have come a long way since then.
Hey brotha can I use the sta-lube assembly lube on both main bearings and rod bearings?
Yup you should be good
Do you check clearances?
That was all checked by the machine shop and myself off camera
How’s the strap kit been holding up?
No issues so far.
@@stagedracing8150 really? Good to hear thinking I’m gonna go with the 6061 direct bolt in with windage tray
@@MrCydiaWTF yup so far so good for me and I have already put it through it’s paces.
@@stagedracing8150 nice, how many miles u got? What power you putting down? I’m curious
@@MrCydiaWTF maybe 300ish HP and 800 miles
What size tap and set screw did you use for the balance shaft oil hole?
1/4 -20 tap. I got it from Daryl Cox racing
Hey bro, I HIGHLY recommend you remove the DCR direct fit kit. The brass set screws you tighten into the bedplate create pressure points on the bedplate. Any detonation or engine harmonics will cause the bedplate to crack. Unfortunately I had it happen to me. Cracked the bedplate, crank moved, and cracked my oil pump and shot the tone wheel out the oil pan. The direct fit kit is a complete gimmick and provides absolutely no support to the bedplate. You have to machine the bedplate and use the correct straps to have actual support.
Thanks for the info .Good to know man
@themoparman94 what if tone wheel was cause? How do you know it was strap kit. I know the tone wheel bolts like to loosen up sometimes maybe that happened? No clue I’m curious
@@MrCydiaWTF naw, the tone wheel coming apart couldn't cause the bed plate to crack and destroy the oil pump.
@@TheMoparman94 yea I agree, that would cause lot more damage too. Was ur motor rebuilt? When did it crack. I think bad tune even without a strap kit and taking out balance shaft assembly would crack bedplate too
Anaerobic sealant? That's probably why these things leak so much
@@cryptoskillz just what OEM asked for. I have yet to have a leak on mine.