I'm a commercial truck body builder, when building a trailer always remember to face all your angle, channel cross members and brackets down or too the rear. This will prevent them from acting like a road scoop picking up rocks, gravel, dirt and asphalt adding weight to your trailer.
I just read this after I built an 18' trailer last spring.......used 3" "C" channel for cross members......at one point I looked at it and thought, "Why the hell did I face them foreword, they are going to collect all the salt and shit!". Live and learn!! LOL
Wow that is some project. I'm slowly working my way up to working on larger projects with my everlast welder. My skills aren't keeping up with my ambitions though.
Looks awesome only thing I see to help is .run something from front to back to keep middle of trailer from Boeing in the middle. UNDER THE C BEAM AND THE ANGEL Other than that .it a VERRY NICE TRAILER .VERY NICE .
When building our trailer we made the ramps to slide in under the full length of the tray and no angled back section needed. When loading I pull the ramps out bolt into place and run the car up on an easy incline.
Nice. Either way is fine I went this route because of the angle on the tail section. If I would have mounted them under the rear I would scrap on every driveway for sure. Now I only scrap on the real steep ones.
On the rear end rubbing... put a bolt through the frame rail and set a urethane wheel (roller blade) inset on each side... for roll rather than scrape.
What thickness is the diamond decking??? You mentioned things you would do differently.. I would start off designing the trailer with 4" drop Axles. Also much less dovetail and the dovetail would be about 6' long for me.. I use to tow cross country often. Big block B-body mopars, mostly. Quite often 4K pounds or more. So you need a light trailer to carry more weight on the same size axles.. In this case I would make the deck in (3) sections. The (2) outside runners would be about 18" wide and run the full length of the trailer. This would be the thicker of the diamond plate. Down the center would be thinner and would only run to the top of the dovetail. This method not only saves weight, but makes it so you can get completely under the car on the trailer to strap it down and remove the straps.. This will also help with mileage. Using the 4"drop axles does many things for you. 1) It lowers your center of gravity.. This is huge for everything. Mileage, ramp length, ramp angle and handling in the wind and at high speed.... Again, this is HUGE!!!! DRUM BRAKES.. I don't like drums on anything but dry trailers, but they are great for any trailers that do not get submerged into lakes or oceans like a boat trailer will. I like drums for these as you have much more contact area for the brake material and I like parking brakes on car trailers... It isn't often that they are needed, but I have spent the night in a few places that I had to detach the trailer from my truck.. I NEVER like that, but now and then you have no choice. When I do park, ESPECIALLY with a car on the trailer, I set the parking brakes. One of my trailers had Parking brakes on both axles!! I didn't need it hooked to anything to load or unload a car.. lol.. But really great if you park it on a well sloped driveway and if you build it with the cables and lever unexposed, it can be better than a ball lock for security.. Most people don't carry anything that would cut the cables when looking for something to steal. Also, it is more weight, but the longevity of the trailer and it's feel towing is much better with your tongue steel turning and going back to the front axle spring perch and a center beam going back to the same location.. That beam not only take a pile of flex out of the trailer, but also gives you a great place for a jack and also your winch.. Best of all Worlds.. Your fenders, (if they will not be removable), should only be as high as needed. So measure the space between the axles and the bottom of the frame and add maybe 1/2". That should be the inside height of your fenders.. This should give you room to open the doors on the cars you would haul. It also help with mileage and dirt/dust/rain control. Also, when you add on your dovetail, the joint from frame to frame should be plated. Wend your joint fully and grind down the weld to fit a fish plate and fully weld them too... I've owned a bunch of trailers and I allways check out the trailers in the pits at all races and shows and these are just a few of the best tips I can give you... Good luck!!!!
To people trying to get an idea of measurments. When level my stock 18 ft pipetop trailer (standard bumper pull with 2x7k dexter axles for 14k gvwr) was 18" of ground clearance stock with no beaver/dovetail. From all the research i cant see a dovetail dropping more than a few inches like 3 max. That leaves 15" ground clearance. More than that you risk bottoming out a lot. My trailer was made from 5 inch channel. So i bought similar thickness and guage. I added a 20 inch dovetail with a 3 inch drop. Its about 8.5 degrees sloped. Used 1/8" tread (diamond) floor plate on the slope and added a couple small 1/4" square bar strips for added traction on rainy days. Also revising the stock 60" x14" "builder special" ramps which were not standup as they had to be pulled out every time. Hated it after 6 yrs. Changed to foldable standing ramps with a built in hinge totalling 84 inches or 42 inches when folded and standing. With a 15 inch drop that equates to roughly 10.3 degree slope. Used 1.5" round bar and ramp springs to attach to rear of trailer with some 2.5" x 1/2" flat bar to hold/brace when standing during transport. Made it to where i can load any car or equipment with low clearance like scissor lifts yet still rugged for tractors and skid steers. Videos like this and other give great insight on when longer ramps are better but keeping those dovetails short and sweet are a good idea. Dont make em too low. Get the slope below 11 degrees and you will be in good shape. Stock slope was almost 18 degrees and before the mods only tractors could load without bottoming out. Love the new utility trailer!
could you please provide the measurement for the axles and where you centered them? because it is the most important thing for building a car trailer and am attending to do my own but I want to ask some one did it before. I read once , the axle location should be after 60% from the front to the back of the trailer to get more stability while loading on high way! thanks, and good job :)
What is the thickness of diamond plate floor?? I am building one myself using 4" channel with angle 2-1/2" cross-members. It will be 4' dovetail with just 4" drop.
Just had another thought... with the dual axles... you placed them correctly... as everyone always does. What are your thoughts or thinking of spreading them more?
I like how you do your trailer and I would appreciate if you gave me measurements of your trailer I don't want it for business I want it because I would like to have materials. I appreciate it.
I'm a commercial truck body builder, when building a trailer always remember to face all your angle, channel cross members and brackets down or too the rear. This will prevent them from acting like a road scoop picking up rocks, gravel, dirt and asphalt adding weight to your trailer.
I just read this after I built an 18' trailer last spring.......used 3" "C" channel for cross members......at one point I looked at it and thought, "Why the hell did I face them foreword, they are going to collect all the salt and shit!". Live and learn!! LOL
Looks great, it will be a great tool for years, your welds look great.
4th assignment man you a beast
Wow that is some project. I'm slowly working my way up to working on larger projects with my everlast welder. My skills aren't keeping up with my ambitions though.
dont worry about how long it takes when your doing such a good job
Looks awesome only thing I see to help is .run something from front to back to keep middle of trailer from Boeing in the middle. UNDER THE C BEAM AND THE ANGEL Other than that .it a VERRY NICE TRAILER .VERY NICE .
Steel over wood for 200 every day of the week nice looking build my friend
When building our trailer we made the ramps to slide in under the full length of the tray and no angled back section needed. When loading I pull the ramps out bolt into place and run the car up on an easy incline.
Nice. Either way is fine I went this route because of the angle on the tail section. If I would have mounted them under the rear I would scrap on every driveway for sure. Now I only scrap on the real steep ones.
On the rear end rubbing... put a bolt through the frame rail and set a urethane wheel (roller blade) inset on each side... for roll rather than scrape.
Looks great. How much did it cost you, if you don’t mind me asking. (For the steel axels, etc.)
What thickness is the diamond decking??? You mentioned things you would do differently.. I would start off designing the trailer with 4" drop Axles. Also much less dovetail and the dovetail would be about 6' long for me.. I use to tow cross country often. Big block B-body mopars, mostly. Quite often 4K pounds or more. So you need a light trailer to carry more weight on the same size axles.. In this case I would make the deck in (3) sections. The (2) outside runners would be about 18" wide and run the full length of the trailer. This would be the thicker of the diamond plate. Down the center would be thinner and would only run to the top of the dovetail. This method not only saves weight, but makes it so you can get completely under the car on the trailer to strap it down and remove the straps.. This will also help with mileage.
Using the 4"drop axles does many things for you. 1) It lowers your center of gravity.. This is huge for everything. Mileage, ramp length, ramp angle and handling in the wind and at high speed.... Again, this is HUGE!!!! DRUM BRAKES.. I don't like drums on anything but dry trailers, but they are great for any trailers that do not get submerged into lakes or oceans like a boat trailer will. I like drums for these as you have much more contact area for the brake material and I like parking brakes on car trailers... It isn't often that they are needed, but I have spent the night in a few places that I had to detach the trailer from my truck.. I NEVER like that, but now and then you have no choice. When I do park, ESPECIALLY with a car on the trailer, I set the parking brakes. One of my trailers had Parking brakes on both axles!! I didn't need it hooked to anything to load or unload a car.. lol.. But really great if you park it on a well sloped driveway and if you build it with the cables and lever unexposed, it can be better than a ball lock for security.. Most people don't carry anything that would cut the cables when looking for something to steal.
Also, it is more weight, but the longevity of the trailer and it's feel towing is much better with your tongue steel turning and going back to the front axle spring perch and a center beam going back to the same location.. That beam not only take a pile of flex out of the trailer, but also gives you a great place for a jack and also your winch.. Best of all Worlds.. Your fenders, (if they will not be removable), should only be as high as needed. So measure the space between the axles and the bottom of the frame and add maybe 1/2". That should be the inside height of your fenders.. This should give you room to open the doors on the cars you would haul. It also help with mileage and dirt/dust/rain control. Also, when you add on your dovetail, the joint from frame to frame should be plated. Wend your joint fully and grind down the weld to fit a fish plate and fully weld them too... I've owned a bunch of trailers and I allways check out the trailers in the pits at all races and shows and these are just a few of the best tips I can give you... Good luck!!!!
nobody cares what you think, nor would they read this long winded shit reply. save it old man.
I want to see a video on how you did the electric hook up bro for the lights
To people trying to get an idea of measurments. When level my stock 18 ft pipetop trailer (standard bumper pull with 2x7k dexter axles for 14k gvwr) was 18" of ground clearance stock with no beaver/dovetail. From all the research i cant see a dovetail dropping more than a few inches like 3 max. That leaves 15" ground clearance. More than that you risk bottoming out a lot. My trailer was made from 5 inch channel. So i bought similar thickness and guage. I added a 20 inch dovetail with a 3 inch drop. Its about 8.5 degrees sloped. Used 1/8" tread (diamond) floor plate on the slope and added a couple small 1/4" square bar strips for added traction on rainy days.
Also revising the stock 60" x14" "builder special" ramps which were not standup as they had to be pulled out every time. Hated it after 6 yrs. Changed to foldable standing ramps with a built in hinge totalling 84 inches or 42 inches when folded and standing. With a 15 inch drop that equates to roughly 10.3 degree slope. Used 1.5" round bar and ramp springs to attach to rear of trailer with some 2.5" x 1/2" flat bar to hold/brace when standing during transport. Made it to where i can load any car or equipment with low clearance like scissor lifts yet still rugged for tractors and skid steers.
Videos like this and other give great insight on when longer ramps are better but keeping those dovetails short and sweet are a good idea. Dont make em too low. Get the slope below 11 degrees and you will be in good shape. Stock slope was almost 18 degrees and before the mods only tractors could load without bottoming out. Love the new utility trailer!
Beautiful trailer. I've been thinking about using my everlast welder and making a small trailer.
pretty good trailer .should have made the fenders removable.that steep angle on the dove tail will rub on low setting cars .
gary mathews
That's a good looking trailer.
How much was this build?
Great job! How much do you think it would it cost me to build one too?
I like trailer. Good job.👍
Have a look at this build, great looking trailer
th-cam.com/video/1oVvrhTjdGg/w-d-xo.html
What size main outside rails did you use?
if you get a winch you could put it in a tool box with a fairlead on the back so it stays out of the elements, I know this is old but just my 2 cents
That will be quite a heavy trailer what did you calculate the gross and unladen weight to be.
Trailer comes in at just under 2000lbs
could you please provide the measurement for the axles and where you centered them?
because it is the most important thing for building a car trailer and am attending to do my own but I want to ask some one did it before. I read once , the axle location should be after 60% from the front to the back of the trailer to get more stability while loading on high way!
thanks, and good job :)
More ideas... place your "C" on the channel to the rear to not catch road toss... did... mud... etc. Nice job though!
+GotScout Good tip. Thanks!
Hello sir where did you get the materials
how did you determine your axel placement?
which the thickness of the bars used to make the trailer car carrier ? I live in Brazil and I want to make a trailer , thanks.
What is the thickness of diamond plate floor?? I am building one myself using 4" channel with angle 2-1/2" cross-members. It will be 4' dovetail with just 4" drop.
chirots I used 14 guage diamond plate.
***** Thanks, mate. I am installing the floor and toolbox at the moment. Unfortunately, I have not filmed any stages of the build.
Thanks, Newbie here have one I am rebuilding and was looking for the plating size. Great quality build.
looks nice,how do you like that chop saw,does it cut good without over heating the metal
Just had another thought... with the dual axles... you placed them correctly... as everyone always does.
What are your thoughts or thinking of spreading them more?
Great video man nice trailer how much cost you
29 ish
so how much money did you spend to get your project done ,friend ,i,m thinking about to build my own trailer,too ??
?
Very good.
How much you have in the whole trailer? I’m thinking about building a trailer
awesome build... why did you put the axle on the inside of the springs?
i.am.remy most likely to keep it lower. Since he will be loading cars with it
Where did you buy your axles and how many pounds each, is their a real of thumb where they should be place on the trailer for weight?
Mint i'll check it out, would you say the 2500 lb ones are substantial for a small car trailer
Your diamond plate should run opposite of your bracing.
Put dually on ,don't use 3 axles ,axles bend easy on 3 axle set up
you did your shit, bro!!
are you carrying a tank about with you what does she weigh unladen
O
Where did you got the material from?
Please can you send me the plans
I like how you do your trailer and I would appreciate if you gave me measurements of your trailer I don't want it for business I want it because I would like to have materials. I appreciate it.
What size did you use for the chassis please?
Awesome bro, inspiring! Is that a Miller 180?
does any body knows the measurment for the dual axel trailer ?
a lot of weight on the tongue?
why don't you put hydraulic on it to lower and raise the dove tail
About what did it cost you in materials?
where did you get your diamond plate
How much did it cost you to build a ho trailer I'm thinking of building one or if it's too much just buying a new one
how much did you spend on building it?
i like it.
Extend the tongue back to the axles.
how much do you cut out to raise the slope?
None. This is a total fuck up. He should have stayed with the wood.
Qual eletrodo uso para fazer chassis?
Como asee la salpicadera d la trilla
do you have plans for this? I'm starting to build one now.
No plans. I just put it together.
Are those electric brakes or hydro?!!
+GotScout Electric.
Next time set the diamond plate out and build it from there upside down
hi, did you use mag welding ? did you put brake discs on the trailer?
Where did you get the dual axle components?
a store.
Hello, Great design, really enjoyed it. I'm from Brazil, could you send me your project by email. I thank you.
+EasyImport Brazil Are you asking for plans? I didn't have plans I just built it.
+ALLMUSCLE thats the way i do most things like this, from the top of my head and they work
I wood 4"
G was there a tornado storm
That is a 18 hour trailer
Disculpa! pero eres muy malo usando la cámara para filmar el video. Me dejaste totalmente mareado.
Busca otro video que note marie guey hahahaa
if you need highth spring it over