Well done for you simple instructions on this topic, my auto electrician quoted me a total of £175 for this job... i thought that was reasonable price until i decided to seek assistance... i purchased everything i needed for this job for £20 and successfully completed the job in 30 mins. Thankyou once again 👍
Tackling this tomorrow after seeing my resistor plug had a burnt out prong. So far I’ve change actuator blower motor and resistor. Now time for the plug
I bought a new heater blower motor along with the connector from a breakers yard. The existing connector has an extra wire in it and all wires are different colours. How do I work out what to do here, the donor vehicle is the same age and model yet different harnesses
Wouldn't it be easier to replace it all together instead of splicing, or do the wires loop around somewhere deep inside, or connect somewhere else in the middle?
So I have a auto climate control with a burnt up pigtail. I think the positive, negative, and ground were 10 gauge. The signal wire is a 14 gage I think. Got the new aftermarket pigtail and ALL wires are 10 gage. Somebody said it would be ok. Spliced new one on and not working. Used a test light and nothing. Im not good with electrical or testing. Im at a crossroads. Not sure if im testing right or if I got wrong pigtail or a new "bad" resistor. Tested blower and its getting continuity. My test light would not light up on the resistor side. Confusing to me.
Seems like these parts cause each other to go bad. I was replacing resistor at first but new one would go bad in a couple days, then I replaced the blower motor and afterward the resistor lasted for six months but then the pigtail went bad and plastic from the plug melted onto the resistor and wouldn’t disconnect so now replaced the pigtail and resistor at same time, hopefully will all be good for at least a little while. Tired of messing with this cheap junk, whatever is going on with it.
Your title says "Blower Motor Wiring Harness" however what you are showing being replaced is the Blower Motor Wiring Harness, which is different from the actual blower motor's wiring harness.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Well done for you simple instructions on this topic, my auto electrician quoted me a total of £175 for this job... i thought that was reasonable price until i decided to seek assistance... i purchased everything i needed for this job for £20 and successfully completed the job in 30 mins. Thankyou once again 👍
Tackling this tomorrow after seeing my resistor plug had a burnt out prong. So far I’ve change actuator blower motor and resistor. Now time for the plug
It's actually really smart how you cut the wires gradually longer as you continue so you know which side is which
Hi, do you have any suggestions on the Second row AC control???
I can change the music, control the heating seats, but I can’t turn on the AC
Replaced a burnt plug 2 years ago, now it's starting to do the same thing again. What is the underlying cause of this continuing to happen?
I bought a new heater blower motor along with the connector from a breakers yard. The existing connector has an extra wire in it and all wires are different colours. How do I work out what to do here, the donor vehicle is the same age and model yet different harnesses
Is the " wiring harness" and the " pigtail" the same thing?
Yes
What’s the difference between dual zone vs manual temperature product
Wouldn't it be easier to replace it all together instead of splicing, or do the wires loop around somewhere deep inside, or connect somewhere else in the middle?
Should I disconnect the battery?
So I have a auto climate control with a burnt up pigtail. I think the positive, negative, and ground were 10 gauge. The signal wire is a 14 gage I think. Got the new aftermarket pigtail and ALL wires are 10 gage. Somebody said it would be ok. Spliced new one on and not working. Used a test light and nothing. Im not good with electrical or testing. Im at a crossroads. Not sure if im testing right or if I got wrong pigtail or a new "bad" resistor. Tested blower and its getting continuity. My test light would not light up on the resistor side. Confusing to me.
Same problem I got let me know if you get it figured out thanks
Did you disconnect your battery? You may have blown a fuse if not.
Same here???
@@MrBoratWOW checked that... Fuses are ok.
Did you figure out what the problem was
Mine doesn't look like that mine white
mime keeps over heating I've replaced is 4 times and I've replace the power motor twice and the power wire still keeps over heating
Seems like these parts cause each other to go bad. I was replacing resistor at first but new one would go bad in a couple days, then I replaced the blower motor and afterward the resistor lasted for six months but then the pigtail went bad and plastic from the plug melted onto the resistor and wouldn’t disconnect so now replaced the pigtail and resistor at same time, hopefully will all be good for at least a little while. Tired of messing with this cheap junk, whatever is going on with it.
My wires are different colors and i can't find a diagram
Quite sure that is the problem with my ac, but taking it in to repair shop and hopefully they are honest.
How do I connect wires from the vehicle after they have been spliced to pigtail?
It’s a cat claw or trim tool, not a little forky thing…smh
Can you send me the actual number part of the pigtail?? Where to buy it
+David Canales Thanks for watching. Buy the part in this video on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Your title says "Blower Motor Wiring Harness" however what you are showing being replaced is the Blower Motor Wiring Harness, which is different from the actual blower motor's wiring harness.