Thank you for this man, jeeps are a bit tricky glad you took the time to do this tutorial step by step. Did mine couple days ago and jeep running smoother than it was
The fan carrier pulley has an oil reservoir. If you look under the pulley there is a hex plug, 5mm if I remember correctly, and when you remove it you can use an oiler and put several drops of oil or gear lube to wake up the original grease. I find the bearing a little whiney (not growl of failed bearing) and the oil takes the noise away.
You need to tighten the camshaft sprockets last as the belt needs to be under tension for the correct valve timing, that is why they are floating. If you do that, no retentioning is needed.
On the Vm you tighten cam sprockets after setting timing belt tensioner, hence why yours loosened. Went to Vm school. Had 100 of these apart. If you have any questions, you can message me.
Mark Eisele thanks for the heads up! Glad I checked! Thanks for watching! And thank you for the offer. I would like to go through this engine and rebuild it at some point. If I do that I could sure use your expertise!
I am going to remove the intake manifold to get the intake cleaned. My engine was really gunked up. I removed the intercooler and cleaned it with mineral spirits. It came out completely black. Then removed the intake tube to do the egr delete. It's full of gunk. So to clean this is important. Is there anything I need to be prepared for with taking this off
Hi, how many hours for the job if you know what your doing, pump, 2 pulleys, belt, tensioner and flush coolant? A dealer trying to RIP me off bumping up 150% on top of the original quote.
Fantastic video. Thank you so much for making this. My belt is due. Excellent point about the idler pulleys and water pump, might as well replace them while you're in there.
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo ! Thank you for this beautiful and useful video that does not exist in France. I do not understand your language (I have not worked enough my English at school 😃) but the image already informs me a lot.
Great video, I dont fully understand why the cam sprocket needs to come off other then to get the water pump (due to the cover) but like you said "if your in there you might as well do it"
The only reason is to change the water pump, the only thing barring the replacement of that would be the rear timing cover and cam sprocket , thanks for the comment!
I have had my 06 liberty now for two weeks now , and cant get rid of the black smoke on acceleration. I have checked and cleaned everything related from egr to turbo my last thing was to check for a bad timing belt and or bad rockers . Any ideas would be appreciated . Thanks for the great videos.
Getting ready to do this. Got the parts, but have a question about the smaller o-ring that comes with the water pump. Where does it go? Thanks for the video also. I am going to attempt this without taking the front end off too. Just the fan, and shroud. You think it can be done that way? Thanks.
Great vid... I have a Chevrolet Colorado diesel which is basically the same engine.... love the mpgs truck is 2wd but i can get 40 on the highway with the engine and transmission tune. I have an egr delete and it got 14% better mpgs Only thing I hate is the interference design with the timing belt but mine is recommended every 160,000 miles
Quick question mate, I’m replacing the whole tension pullley, I unscrewed it but it doesn’t seem to be coming off the engine, like something is stopping it. Do I need to remove the pulley underneath it for the tension pulley to come off. Can you please let me know. Thank you
max28197 that’s a good question! it’s not the exact same engine as the wrangler, the wrangler diesel is a 2nd generation of this engine, unfortunately I don’t have any experience with that one so I can’t say what they may have or have not changed thanks for watching!
Great video. I have a question, did you replace this because of a problem or just for preventative maintenance? We also have the same vehicle and it has a strange problem. It misses above 2k rpm, or under load. I have replaced the glow plugs, cam sensor and going to do the crank sensor this week. The vehicle ran just fine, (albeit, it’s no rocket ship. Lol) for about a month and then it began doing this. As you know, there’s little info on these engines. We like the little car quite a bit and I’m just trying to figure out if maybe the timing belt is going. Thanks for reading.
Hi mate, thank for the video, well done. I also have a 2.5 CRD KJ. A couple of years I also made this replacement and if you let me i'll give you a couple of advices. I strongly recommend respect all the torques specified in the service manual, especilly when a bolt is attached to an aluminum part. I'll tell you what happened to me. All the work went good until I bolted the timing belt tensioner... OOPSS the bolt started to sleep inside the thread... Oh shit... I couldn't complete the repair. I had to disassemble the aluminum back cover again where the pulleys are attached to. I sadly discovered that the workshop that made the last replacement broke the thread overtighting the bolt and they repaired the thread with HELICOIL that is suitable for small torques but not for a timing belt tensioner 😮, It was a miracle that the engine not exploded. I took the cover to a workshop that repaired the thread with WURTH TIME SERT steel insert that is timelife guaranteed, and then I finished the work. My another recommendation is when your accesory belt tensioner pulley is making noise or rusty is better to replace it, but you don't need to replace the whole tensioner, if you look at the tensioner, the pulley is the same than the others in the accesory belt. You can simply unbolt the pulley from the tensioner and replace it with a new pulley. I made it the last time and all is good. The lifetime of the tensioners in this engine are very long because this engine uses an alternator decoupler pulley that reduces the accesory belt vibrations and tensions. Also, in the service manual says that you can reuse the timing belt pulleys and tensioner if are in good conditions. I reused them also and everything is running good. I hope this info help you to save some money and doing things even a little better. Thank you for the video from Canary Islands 👍
@@doncarlo5 I think that Git It Garage has answered you already, but with his permission i'll give you my opinion. Mine is a 2003 first generation 2.5 CRD, it hasn't all the upgrades that came later in the 2.8 CRD and is less powered but I love it also. It is not the king of torque but you can put inside your family, full fill the cargo area and it'll climb almost with the same ease. This is the main advantage of diesel engines. VM diesel engines where designed for marine applications at the begining being very reliable and strong in cars. Older VM diesel engines here in Europe had a bad reputation because of a cylinder head wrong design but it is a thing of the past. Mine has now 450.000 kms and it pushes like the first day. Like Git It Garage said, it is recommended some mods for a better overall running of the engine but they are not strongly necessary to enjoy this vehicle. You only need to take care of it. MY MODS: Samco intake manifolds (for a better exploitation of the turbo pressure, mine is an old fixed geometry turbo), home-made thermostat (oem one is too cold and don't get all the power of the engine), Superchips chiptuning +20 hp those days, and "that's all folks". MY PARTS: I strongly recommend only use high quality parts (no only OEM parts), moreover, OEM parts are realiy made by other brands like Bosch, Mahle, Mann, TRW, etc, etc. If you find out the real part number of a piece, you can buy it from whatever parts dealer for a much better price than OEM with the same quality OR BETTER. In the case of fluids, only use the best that you can. I use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 for the engine (it wastes 1 liter after 10.000 kms with 450.000 on it ;-) ,tranfer case, gearbox, and axles I use Ravenol and Motul. You need to take a special care not using cheap fuel filters, only 2 micron high quality ones. With them you will not have injection problems at all. MY RECOMENDATIONS OF USE: In general, with turbo-diesel engines, for me there are three golden rules, 1- Use the best oil and diesel fuel, 2- let the turbo to lubricate in the mornings and let it cool before shut off even in the gas station before refuel, 3- Use a more sporty drivinng technique to avoid engine clogging, specially the EGR and other internal parts (I haven't deleted the EGR with good results, keeping the mother Nature cleaner also)(many people think that a diesel is slow and tractor like car, but if you know how to get the best of it, It will give you the same or better performance than a gasoline car with the same power rate, I recognise I use mine hard, I have pushed the engine revs exceding the tacho red line and reached 180 kph many times. I don't recommend you this but I like sporty driving, even with an off-road vehicle. I don't know 3.8 CRD engine in the Wrangler and there is no info about it on internet. I think you missundertood 3.8L with 2.8 CRD, but I mighty be in a mistake. I can keep going telling you stories about this car but it could be very long, and I don't like recommending anything because what is the best for me could be the worst for others. In summary: These engines are very strong and reliable if you take care of them.
Hi,Im driving 2005 jeep cherokee 2.5crd limited auto,mine doesnt have power when driving on mountains or hill,it drops back to 60.but when on normal surface,it runs up to 180.what can be the problem
You need to tighten the camshaft sprockets last as the belt needs to be under tension for the correct valve timing, that is why they are floating. If you do that, no retentioning is needed.
+Nick Towers unfortunately no it cannot.. It is driven by the timing belt. Chances are if you need a water pump a timing belt may be a good idea as well seeing its being removed anyways. Hope this helps.
starting fluid has a long way to go before it gets in the engine through turbo piping and intercooler , and I know you don't want to spray to much in a diesel (to avoid hydrolocking the engine) typically fuel is all a diesel needs to at least fire up and spraying starting fluid will bypass the fueling system. if it does not even try to fire with starting fluid sounds like its not getting compression or air or fuel (starting fluid) into the combustion chamber
Hi mens! I just do my timing belt and water pump. All is correct, but when I have wanted to switch on the engine, it doesn´t works. The engine doesn´t do nothing. I have done all like you, but into your video (second part minute 9:50) you swith on your engine without problems within mounting the accesories belt. Question: ¿is posible that I have any ground wire disconected?
doncarlo5 I still very much love this vehicle it would be good if you don’t mind working on it or paying someone to do it I recommend a timing belt and provent ASAP if you do as well as what we have planned which is rocker arms head studs and new exhaust valves we will have a video detailing this soon , I love my crd being a 4 cylinder turbo diesel 4x4 and as long as ur not afraid to get dirty It’s a great vehicle!
doncarlo5 I mean there are for sure upgrades and some preventative maintenance that needs to be dealt with but I haven’t have any issues with mine it’s been not driven much while waiting to get the upgrades finished many videos coming soon on that!, most people don’t post anything online if it’s working good usually it’s a post something went wrong but I love it!
I have an 06 Limited CRD that I've had since 07. 276,000 miles now and two timing belts changes and normal maintenance. LOVE IT! I just replaced the serpentine belt tensioner as the other one was very noisy. Used a cheap 40 dollar one from Amazon, quiet till it warms up and then gets noisy. Will get the correct german made one later but almost 200 dollars. Black smoke is normal on acceleration as this was pre 07 clean air mandate, main reason they didn't build later than 06 as Jeep only made a limited number of these, around 15,000 total and of those only 8500 stayed in the states from my research. Nobody mentions the CCV that needs to be cleaned under the engine cover.....I have a new one ordered. If I sit and idle to long , like at a drive thru, I get a burnt oily tar smell........think that is from the CCV valve.........could also be the EGR also and am planning a delete next timing belt change at the end of the year. Only other issue is not diesel but just Daimler over designed the 4 wheel drive on it. They put two CV joints on both the front and rear drive shafts. My front CV joint failed on the front of the driveshaft and made all kinds of noise when it warmed up. Common problem on them...................otherwise great vehicle and plan on keeping forever. Sleeved engine so will be brand new at overhaul time! Oh did I mention here in Texas always get 30-31 mpg all the time on interstate at 80-85 mph! That and the Selec Trac............super Sweet 4wd system..........All Weather capability.
I have a Chevrolet Colorado with this similar engine... 2.8 turbo diesel and it's great... i just really hate the fact that it's an interference diesgn
Thank you for this man, jeeps are a bit tricky glad you took the time to do this tutorial step by step. Did mine couple days ago and jeep running smoother than it was
The fan carrier pulley has an oil reservoir. If you look under the pulley there is a hex plug, 5mm if I remember correctly, and when you remove it you can use an oiler and put several drops of oil or gear lube to wake up the original grease. I find the bearing a little whiney (not growl of failed bearing) and the oil takes the noise away.
Thank you for this video series. Couldn’t have done the job without it!
You need to tighten the camshaft sprockets last as the belt needs to be under tension for the correct valve timing, that is why they are floating. If you do that, no retentioning is needed.
On the Vm you tighten cam sprockets after setting timing belt tensioner, hence why yours loosened. Went to Vm school. Had 100 of these apart. If you have any questions, you can message me.
Mark Eisele thanks for the heads up! Glad I checked! Thanks for watching! And thank you for the offer. I would like to go through this engine and rebuild it at some point. If I do that I could sure use your expertise!
I second that, pulleys are floating. Volvos are the same way
I am going to remove the intake manifold to get the intake cleaned. My engine was really gunked up. I removed the intercooler and cleaned it with mineral spirits. It came out completely black. Then removed the intake tube to do the egr delete. It's full of gunk. So to clean this is important. Is there anything I need to be prepared for with taking this off
I agree, cams and crank are locked in place by index tools so timing belt should installed and tensioned and then cam pulleys tightened.
Hi, how many hours for the job if you know what your doing, pump, 2 pulleys, belt, tensioner and flush coolant?
A dealer trying to RIP me off bumping up 150% on top of the original quote.
Fantastic video. Thank you so much for making this. My belt is due. Excellent point about the idler pulleys and water pump, might as well replace them while you're in there.
Very good job Bro. Thanks a lot from France.
Thanks for the upload. Appreciate the time and effort that goes into making this kind of vids.
But, I have to say, what a complicated job this is...
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo ! Thank you for this beautiful and useful video that does not exist in France.
I do not understand your language (I have not worked enough my English at school 😃) but the image already informs me a lot.
Great video, I dont fully understand why the cam sprocket needs to come off other then to get the water pump (due to the cover) but like you said "if your in there you might as well do it"
The only reason is to change the water pump, the only thing barring the replacement of that would be the rear timing cover and cam sprocket , thanks for the comment!
@@GitItGarage quite frankly a stupid design idea. They could have made that portion of the cover as part of the pump housing
Hey brotha, great video series. Do you know if this is the same as a Colorado duramax? I know the engine is very similar. Thanks for the help.
any video about turbo replacement?
Como é o motor de arranque do liberty disel 2.8
Hi there I got the jeep with timing problems so the previous guys messed around with it alot I'm not finding the hole in the flywheel
I have had my 06 liberty now for two weeks now , and cant get rid of the black smoke on acceleration. I have checked and cleaned everything related from egr to turbo my last thing was to check for a bad timing belt and or bad rockers . Any ideas would be appreciated . Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks for your videos huge help
+Josh Taylor so happy to hear that! Appreciate the feedback! Thanks!
Getting ready to do this. Got the parts, but have a question about the smaller o-ring that comes with the water pump. Where does it go? Thanks for the video also. I am going to attempt this without taking the front end off too. Just the fan, and shroud. You think it can be done that way? Thanks.
GOOD MORNING I NEED PLEASE SEE THE INJECTOR
Great vid... I have a Chevrolet Colorado diesel which is basically the same engine.... love the mpgs truck is 2wd but i can get 40 on the highway with the engine and transmission tune. I have an egr delete and it got 14% better mpgs
Only thing I hate is the interference design with the timing belt but mine is recommended every 160,000 miles
Quick question mate, I’m replacing the whole tension pullley, I unscrewed it but it doesn’t seem to be coming off the engine, like something is stopping it. Do I need to remove the pulley underneath it for the tension pulley to come off. Can you please let me know. Thank you
Hi, how many hours in total did it take you for the whole procedure?
Belt, pump, 2 pulleys, tensioner and flush coolant.
thanks you et very good video 👍
Awesome man...thanks....by the way is it exactly the same 2.8 crd V.M.as the wrangler has in it.?
max28197 that’s a good question! it’s not the exact same engine as the wrangler, the wrangler diesel is a 2nd generation of this engine, unfortunately I don’t have any experience with that one so I can’t say what they may have or have not changed thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video !!!
very good video
Great video. I have a question, did you replace this because of a problem or just for preventative maintenance? We also have the same vehicle and it has a strange problem. It misses above 2k rpm, or under load. I have replaced the glow plugs, cam sensor and going to do the crank sensor this week. The vehicle ran just fine, (albeit, it’s no rocket ship. Lol) for about a month and then it began doing this. As you know, there’s little info on these engines. We like the little car quite a bit and I’m just trying to figure out if maybe the timing belt is going. Thanks for reading.
Check air filter and fuel filter. For sure remember that fuel pump does all the work to bring fuel up when most applications use a booster pump
Hi mate, thank for the video, well done.
I also have a 2.5 CRD KJ. A couple of years I also made this replacement and if you let me i'll give you a couple of advices.
I strongly recommend respect all the torques specified in the service manual, especilly when a bolt is attached to an aluminum part. I'll tell you what happened to me. All the work went good until I bolted the timing belt tensioner... OOPSS the bolt started to sleep inside the thread... Oh shit... I couldn't complete the repair. I had to disassemble the aluminum back cover again where the pulleys are attached to. I sadly discovered that the workshop that made the last replacement broke the thread overtighting the bolt and they repaired the thread with HELICOIL that is suitable for small torques but not for a timing belt tensioner 😮, It was a miracle that the engine not exploded. I took the cover to a workshop that repaired the thread with WURTH TIME SERT steel insert that is timelife guaranteed, and then I finished the work.
My another recommendation is when your accesory belt tensioner pulley is making noise or rusty is better to replace it, but you don't need to replace the whole tensioner, if you look at the tensioner, the pulley is the same than the others in the accesory belt. You can simply unbolt the pulley from the tensioner and replace it with a new pulley. I made it the last time and all is good. The lifetime of the tensioners in this engine are very long because this engine uses an alternator decoupler pulley that reduces the accesory belt vibrations and tensions. Also, in the service manual says that you can reuse the timing belt pulleys and tensioner if are in good conditions. I reused them also and everything is running good.
I hope this info help you to save some money and doing things even a little better.
Thank you for the video from Canary Islands 👍
thanks for sharing your experience ! I was thinking of buying a JK unlimited with the 3.8 CRD engine , what would you advice ? take it or leave it ?
@@doncarlo5 I think that Git It Garage has answered you already, but with his permission i'll give you my opinion.
Mine is a 2003 first generation 2.5 CRD, it hasn't all the upgrades that came later in the 2.8 CRD and is less powered but I love it also. It is not the king of torque but you can put inside your family, full fill the cargo area and it'll climb almost with the same ease. This is the main advantage of diesel engines. VM diesel engines where designed for marine applications at the begining being very reliable and strong in cars. Older VM diesel engines here in Europe had a bad reputation because of a cylinder head wrong design but it is a thing of the past.
Mine has now 450.000 kms and it pushes like the first day. Like Git It Garage said, it is recommended some mods for a better overall running of the engine but they are not strongly necessary to enjoy this vehicle. You only need to take care of it.
MY MODS: Samco intake manifolds (for a better exploitation of the turbo pressure, mine is an old fixed geometry turbo), home-made thermostat (oem one is too cold and don't get all the power of the engine), Superchips chiptuning +20 hp those days, and "that's all folks".
MY PARTS: I strongly recommend only use high quality parts (no only OEM parts), moreover, OEM parts are realiy made by other brands like Bosch, Mahle, Mann, TRW, etc, etc. If you find out the real part number of a piece, you can buy it from whatever parts dealer for a much better price than OEM with the same quality OR BETTER. In the case of fluids, only use the best that you can. I use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 for the engine (it wastes 1 liter after 10.000 kms with 450.000 on it ;-) ,tranfer case, gearbox, and axles I use Ravenol and Motul. You need to take a special care not using cheap fuel filters, only 2 micron high quality ones. With them you will not have injection problems at all.
MY RECOMENDATIONS OF USE: In general, with turbo-diesel engines, for me there are three golden rules, 1- Use the best oil and diesel fuel, 2- let the turbo to lubricate in the mornings and let it cool before shut off even in the gas station before refuel, 3- Use a more sporty drivinng technique to avoid engine clogging, specially the EGR and other internal parts (I haven't deleted the EGR with good results, keeping the mother Nature cleaner also)(many people think that a diesel is slow and tractor like car, but if you know how to get the best of it, It will give you the same or better performance than a gasoline car with the same power rate, I recognise I use mine hard, I have pushed the engine revs exceding the tacho red line and reached 180 kph many times. I don't recommend you this but I like sporty driving, even with an off-road vehicle.
I don't know 3.8 CRD engine in the Wrangler and there is no info about it on internet. I think you missundertood 3.8L with 2.8 CRD, but I mighty be in a mistake.
I can keep going telling you stories about this car but it could be very long, and I don't like recommending anything because what is the best for me could be the worst for others.
In summary: These engines are very strong and reliable if you take care of them.
Hi,Im driving 2005 jeep cherokee 2.5crd limited auto,mine doesnt have power when driving on mountains or hill,it drops back to 60.but when on normal surface,it runs up to 180.what can be the problem
Hola buenas ..xq se sale la Banda del tensor y se rompe la faga saludos desde ... PERÚ
Very nice video but why there is a need to mark for high pressure pump as the engine is CRDI I don't think there is a need to set the pumps timing
There isn't but it can help be a tell that you have the cams orientated right and not 180 degrees opposite
Hi. Why when you run engine, tensionre change position..it's normal...or depend on manufacturer
You need to tighten the camshaft sprockets last as the belt needs to be under tension for the correct valve timing, that is why they are floating. If you do that, no retentioning is needed.
Excellent!!!!!!!
Where can I get that Turbo Diesel decal on the jeep in the image?
Can the water pump be replaced without removing the timing assembly?
+Nick Towers unfortunately no it cannot.. It is driven by the timing belt. Chances are if you need a water pump a timing belt may be a good idea as well seeing its being removed anyways. Hope this helps.
What would cause a crank No start even tried starting fluid
starting fluid has a long way to go before it gets in the engine through turbo piping and intercooler , and I know you don't want to spray to much in a diesel (to avoid hydrolocking the engine) typically fuel is all a diesel needs to at least fire up and spraying starting fluid will bypass the fueling system. if it does not even try to fire with starting fluid sounds like its not getting compression or air or fuel (starting fluid) into the combustion chamber
Okay thank you I primed the pump sand have no line Attached no fuel
Hi mens! I just do my timing belt and water pump. All is correct, but when I have wanted to switch on the engine, it doesn´t works. The engine doesn´t do nothing. I have done all like you, but into your video (second part minute 9:50) you swith on your engine without problems within mounting the accesories belt. Question: ¿is posible that I have any ground wire disconected?
Доброго времени суток подскажите от коких мошин можно заменить ролики и можно поменять 7 вальтовые свечи накала на 11 вальтовые
the one million dollar question is: should I buy one ? Or better forget this engine ...
doncarlo5 I still very much love this vehicle it would be good if you don’t mind working on it or paying someone to do it I recommend a timing belt and provent ASAP if you do as well as what we have planned which is rocker arms head studs and new exhaust valves we will have a video detailing this soon , I love my crd being a 4 cylinder turbo diesel 4x4 and as long as ur not afraid to get dirty It’s a great vehicle!
@@GitItGarage ok thanks! so, all in all, you seem to be happy with this engine , right ?
doncarlo5 I mean there are for sure upgrades and some preventative maintenance that needs to be dealt with but I haven’t have any issues with mine it’s been not driven much while waiting to get the upgrades finished many videos coming soon on that!, most people don’t post anything online if it’s working good usually it’s a post something went wrong but I love it!
I have an 06 Limited CRD that I've had since 07. 276,000 miles now and two timing belts changes and normal maintenance. LOVE IT! I just replaced the serpentine belt tensioner as the other one was very noisy. Used a cheap 40 dollar one from Amazon, quiet till it warms up and then gets noisy. Will get the correct german made one later but almost 200 dollars. Black smoke is normal on acceleration as this was pre 07 clean air mandate, main reason they didn't build later than 06 as Jeep only made a limited number of these, around 15,000 total and of those only 8500 stayed in the states from my research. Nobody mentions the CCV that needs to be cleaned under the engine cover.....I have a new one ordered. If I sit and idle to long , like at a drive thru, I get a burnt oily tar smell........think that is from the CCV valve.........could also be the EGR also and am planning a delete next timing belt change at the end of the year. Only other issue is not diesel but just Daimler over designed the 4 wheel drive on it. They put two CV joints on both the front and rear drive shafts. My front CV joint failed on the front of the driveshaft and made all kinds of noise when it warmed up. Common problem on them...................otherwise great vehicle and plan on keeping forever. Sleeved engine so will be brand new at overhaul time! Oh did I mention here in Texas always get 30-31 mpg all the time on interstate at 80-85 mph! That and the Selec Trac............super Sweet 4wd system..........All Weather capability.
I have a Chevrolet Colorado with this similar engine... 2.8 turbo diesel and it's great... i just really hate the fact that it's an interference diesgn
Lingua italiana
Salut cet pas bien expliqué pasq tu n'a pas utiliser les repére origine. Merci cit vs pouvez reprendre.
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