Jeep Liberty Diesel Timing Belt Replacement Part 5
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ย. 2012
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Part five of the how to guide for replacing the Jeep Liberty/Cherokee/KJ 2.8 Turbo Diesel CRD Timing Belt.
Part 1:
• Jeep Liberty Diesel Ti...
Part 2:
• Jeep Liberty Diesel Ti...
Part 3:
• Jeep Liberty Diesel Ti...
Part 4:
• Jeep Liberty Diesel Ti...
Written writeup:
colorado4wheel.com/content/KJ_...
CRD Noob Guide:
colorado4wheel.com/forum/viewt...
Colorado4Wheel.com technical articles page:
colorado4wheel.com/forum/viewf...
LOST Jeeps CRD section:
www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3...
Cam Gear Holder(VM 1085) alternatives:
Here is a link to discussion about some alternative tools:
www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3...
Q: Would you agree that it is impossible to do the timing belt and water pump replacement without the locking pins?
A: It's not completely impossible, if you just want to do the belt and not the water pump as well you can do it without the tools.
Some people have had success by loosening the rear belt cover, pulling it forward, and then getting around to the backside to unbolt the pump housing from the block, and rad outlet. This is a little bit different then how I do it, since I unbolt the front half with the cover removed.
Both of the above count on you marking the gears relative to the rear cover, and then lining up the gears with the new belt relative to those marks by hand, its certainly possible, and thats essentially what I always have to do by hand on the crank gear.
So you can most definitely do the belt only without tools, and painfully do the water pump without the tools. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Thanks so much, these videos were a lifesaver, just did mine over the weekend. I made my own locking pins by grinding bolts and made my own sprocket buster bar, but found re-torquing the cam gears was very difficult without a camgear locking tool, I rented a universal one from an autoparts store and it worked well.
The hardest part of this job for me was getting the new timing belt on the tensioner. I unbolted the tensioner, slid it on then bolted the tensioner back to the block.
Thanks for the five part series as the information is great and has prevented me from making any errors.
After seeing your "trick" with the water pump housing I am almost sorry that I ordered the ID parts graf pump in the kit and not the oem, one I wish I had watched this first...lol as I have read some horror stories on the removal of the rest of the pump. I am doing this job at the end of the month and these videos will be a lifesaver. Thanks so much.!!!!
Lost jeeps "Laplaya"
Thanks for the detailed videos. Got this done in under 5 hours
I must say this is a excellent video series. Helped me big time as the work shop manual does not give the location of the flywheel pin hole. Would of been fine if i had started on the job but was helping a mate and he had all ready pulled everything off.
Thank you for these very well explained videos. Sharing knowledge makes the world a better place :)
Thank you so much for making this video!!!!!!!! mitchelle on demand and identifix doesnt show every thing and explain it all in detail and seeing how im dyslexic which most mechanics are visual dimenstration is so much better and easier. Out here in Longview Texas we mostly deal with dodge cummins and ford powerstrokes with a chevy duramax here and there and this was the first time ever doing a timing belt on a CRD jeep liberty. THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO IT WAS EXTREMELY HELPFULL!!!!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent. Great info.
Thanks,very help full.
Thank you very much! Very very helpful!!! From Russia with love ;)
Good Video, Thanks
Hal, this is a common leak. I think the best solution is to install an aftermarket transmission cooler. To replace the OEM one you will also need to replace the AC condenser. I just went down to my local oreilly auto parts and got a cooler off the shelf. I disconnected the metal fittings(pull the metal clip out, then they will just pull back out) and then slid the hose over the barb and clamped down. Less than an hour and $60. Check out the diesel section of lostjeeps for pics and more info.
Very helpful thanks
the graf pump from idparts is the front half, you can leave the oem rear housing bolted to the block just like the video shows and put the new graf part in, i just did mine over the weekend
thanks so much. I now have two Jeep 2005 liberty diesels and I want to learn all I can about fixing them myself. One of them is leaking transmission fluid pretty bad at the transmission cooler. Any videos on this fix???
Thank you very much for responding to my question.
Would you have a recommendation on a choice of replacement alternator? Alternatively, what is the part number of the OEM de-coupler pulley?
I have an engine code indicating that there is a glow plug failure. I understand that they should be replaced, but is it really necessary to reprogram the PCM?
Our Liberty gets around 14 MPG in normal rural driving…is this normal?
Many thanks,
BH
Hey ya I have just bought an 05 and it has some issues Thanks for the informative video , I have a question as to the tensioner, is the 10mm bolt torqued before the adjustment for tension is made or left slightly loose then torqued after the scosche mark is aligned ?
Great job on the videos.
Don't you want to do one more? I am working on changing the timing belt & water pump (and maybe rockers) on my wife's '05 KJ 2.8L CRD and was unaware that I needed so many specialty tools when I began. Do you have a part number on the cam sprocket holding tool that you used in this video? Thanks.
thanks for the info. This morning I started to just replace the belt tensioner, but found that the bracket holding the viscous heater was broken. Now I have to replace the water heater. I'll have to do the whole works. I heard you mention to get the OEM water pump so that it will match up with the back so that I want have to take it all off. Do I order the Miller tool online? Or, is there another place to by them off of the shelf?
Don't you see, the reason the cams are on a TAPER, is so that any pre-timing slack can be taken up by the cam wheels and then you can set the tensioner.
The cam sprocket tool is VM 1085, and can be bought from miller tools, its expensive. There are loaner tool programs, GreenDieseEngineering offers loaner tools. There are also a couple of alternatives for holding the cam gears, see revised video description for the link.
yes, I've joined the lostjeeps blog
Great video. Helping a bunch. In the process of changing mine out now. Having some trouble with aligning the crank and still keeping the belt tight. I'm not using the vm1085 and I'm not sure if it will help me or not but is there anyway I could get a measurement from the 1085? The bottom of the top where it slides in the cam gears?
Jake Pearson Hi Jake, I'm not sure what you are asking about the measurement. I do understand what you mean about alignment the crank and keeping the belt tight. I talk about this at about 11:20 and 12:30 in the video. Hopefully that makes sense.
I have a question about our 2006 Liberty CRD. The serpentine belt is making some strange chirping noises at idle. The belt was replaced about six months ago. Is this the result of a failed tensioner? If so, should the Idlers be changed as well? Is the belt brand a critical issue?
Get the tensioner bolt just tight enough that you can still turn the tensioner with your tool, then torque it down. Run the engine for a few seconds. Repeat the procedure. That will get the tensioner set. You want to turn the engine over after setting the tension once to make sure the tension is consistent the whole way around the belt.
Most of my customers want the pump replaced, since the timing belt has to come off to replace the pump it only adds the cost of the pump and the additional extra labor for just the pump, but if the pump fails in the next 100k its the cost of another whole timing belt job. One customer opted not to replace the pump, it started leaking 3k miles later. On my personal vehicle I left the OEM pump on, and I will change it at 200k. Keep in mind on many vehicles the pump fails between 100k and 200k.
dear sir, thanks for this lovely video, I have a humble opinion: Why we just don,t tighten the bolt on 2 cam shaft gears and put the belt on with 3 pins in place and focus only on injection pump gear mark as the manufacturer marks it solely. I think it makes a perfect hassle free timing . Just that we should use the front hole as a stopper or rely on pins holding cam shafts to tighten the bolt to the torque and not use the gear holder. I wish the Italian have used chain on this nice engine!
YOU CAN IGNORE CAM WHEEL MARKS, BECAUSE THE CAM SHAFTS ARE HELD IN PLACE BY TIMING PINS ( NOW DO YOU SEE ?)
Do you think it is possible to change the time belt and the water pump just by removing the radiator fan shroud and the fan blade with the clutch ?
Ri Vi yes absolutely. Clearance is not as good and it’s very hard to remove a in modified fan shroud but it can be done. Be careful not to damage the radiator.
I am having a hard time replacing the serpentine belt and don't understand why. I've tried to loop it onto the alternator and no luck. The belt # is 5061130 for 2005 2.8 liter jeep liberty. Still no luck. Had to put the old one back on and was able to on the tensioner. Any advice. Belts are apparently same length per advance auto
Hi missed you comment earlier, new belts are very very tight. But its not unheard of for different manufacturers to have slightly different lengths. The belt crosses over with some other common cars, so you could try a different brand.
Overall though I would say that I use a flat breaker bar on the tensioner pulley bolt to get enough leverage to get the new belt on. if with a 2 foot bar it takes some effort, and you will torque the bolt a little more.
Unfortunately I am not in California, my best advice is to get on the lostjeeps(DOT)com diesel section and ask around for recommended mechanics, you may get lucky and find someone has a local recommendation for you.
Hi This is quite helpful. One question. When you re install the Cam gars what Torque value do you need to secure the cam gear bolts to be safe.
Dwight McAmmond from the factory service manual I show 108Nm or 80ftlbs.
Thank you That was the only question I had from your video. I will go to work on my first change out shortly. Will follow your instructions closely. Thanks again. Dwight.
Great video. Are you located in Florida or Georgia?
IF- not changing the thermostat- can pump be taken off without removing the thermostat?. Great and informative video. Cheers.
yes you can remove the front part of water pump which is the only moving part and only portion that needs replacing rest where gasket is does not need to be removed but if you did remove rear half of water pump you would want to remove the thermostat also
Thank you so much for making these videos. They're so helpful.
Is this the 2.5 diesel engine that would be in a 2003 Liberty ?
Here Now this was a 2.8 Crd from a 2005, however the 2.5 and 2.8 from 2003 are basically identical when it comes to the timing belt process. You can use this guide as a reference for doing the belt on a 2.5 CRD
There's no substitute for experience. So thank you for generously sharing your experience here with these videos. Very much appreciated.
You missed the point on why the cam sprokets have no key or timing marks. How you do it works but if you read the service manual you would save yourself some greif in getting the timing belt on. you put the belt on with the sprokets finger tight and let them move as you get the belt in place then tension the belt and only then do you torque down the sprokets. the timing pins are how the engine is timed. you will not have the extra tooth problem at the crank if you do it this way.
Miller tools is the only place to buy them new, you can find some other make VM 2.8 engine tools on ebay from the UK, but they don't have the cam gear holder, which if you can find a way to counter hold the gears you can live without. Stick with the OEM water pump. IDparts(dot)com sells a pretty good timing belt kit that is very popular. Again there has been lots of discussion and information about alternatives on the lostjeeps CRD section.
which way does it turn when looking for the crank pin hole so im looking at the motor from the front radiator which way to find 90 degrees past tdc
Looking from the front turn the engine clockwise. So turn the crank mark from 12 oclock to 3 oclock. Thats where you will be able to get the crank pin in. Having a helper to move it back and forth slightly can help to get it in. If the cam pins do not go in turn it another 360 degrees.
you would rotate crank clockwise, you can move it slightly counterclockwise such as a tooth or two to get pin in if you believe you are very close to it
Can you tell me what cause my jeep liberty 2005 CRD have the accelaration power? it will not go pass fifty miles per hour, I changed the turbo and nothing. When I take off it has a lot of fumes coming out my exhaust system so do you know what cause that please?
That could be any number of issues from minor to major. I'd recommend you post up on lost jeeps about your symptoms and what you have done so far.
i have changed the turbo, fuel filter, complete tune up on the engine, timing belt and right now my front differential for the 4x4 is bad so i am getting ready to get that fix
I have a CRD. it has 160K on it I think I needs a head gasket. It is pushing coolant out of the overflow on the reservoir. I have tried using a block tester to check it but the blue fluid does not turn yellow. is there another way to check it? I am going to replace the timing belt and water pump at the same time. I found your videos on the timing belt a big help. Any advice when doing the head gasket? I forgot to tell you that the jeep still runs and drives good . it has been leaking coolant for almost 3 years on the passenger side and the coolant reservoir has pressure in it after it cools down too. Once again any help would be grate. Thank you for your time. Mike
If you do a head gasket replacement you should also consider doing ARP head studs. Some people with problems like you have will replace the head studs as a first measure, and see if it cures the leaking head gasket. If you buy ARP head studs they are reuseable, so if that does not stop the leak you can replace the gasket and reuse the studs. There are 3 gaskets for this engine, and there is a hole punched in it to tell you which it is, the thickness is different between gaskets and is based on liner protrusion. Many people will simply replace with the thickest gasket. The Jeep dealer in the US will only sell the head gasket with the original TTY head bolts. You can buy the gasket from www.vmdieselspecialist.com/ in the UK by its self. The head bolts are VW TDI bolts - same spec, however you need a set of two TDI ARP kits to replace the VM bolts, with 2 spares. If you are removing the intake you might also need to consider replacing the rockers. Once you have the intake off you can inspect the rockers for wear. You can also buy the rockers from the VM specialist. IDparts.com in the US will also carry many of the parts you need. www.LOSTJEEPS.com diesel section can also be more helpful answering many of these questions as there are many owners who have been through this before.
thank you for replying so fast. I'm going to try the studs. I found them at id parts. do you know where I can find the proper torque specs hor the studs?
Mike
outer ones 130 ft lbs inner 10 are 120 ftlbs recommend u search on lost jeeps
@@drevilmike77
Nice video :)
Are you in Colorado?
I own a CRD and the belt is due.
+David P I am, but my availability is very limited for the belt changes.
The chirping noises you are hearing are not a bad belt or tensioner, but rather are a bad alternator decoupler pulley. You can get remanufactured alternators for about $150 with lifetime warranty which include a new decoupler pulley, you can also just replace the decoupler pulley for about $100 without any warranty. If you continue to let it go it will cause the serp belt tensioner to fail, which costs MORE than an alternator. Happened to me. So replace that alternator/decoupler asap!
hello greetings friend thanks for that valuable information. I have some questions I hope you help me. I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty Cherokee Sports Crd with 2.5Diesel engine. I have a problem that this Jeep does not have injectors and therefore I have the number of that part. I've heard a lot that the 2.8 engine injectors are the same with the 2.5. another also the cylinder head assembly of this engine. I would like you to provide me with a means of communication because I see that you have a lot of knowledge helps a lot thanks
Hi there. I really recommend going to www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=5 and asking there about the injectors. I have injectors from a VERY early 2.5 CRD (engine made in 2000 when the jeep was released for 2002) and those injectors were different from the 2005+, however I do not know if all the injectors were different between 2.5 and 2.8 in the years 2002-2004. Also if you go here: colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/
You will see there are parts fiches, you should be able to lookup the PN for the injector in the parts fiches.
OK, thank you very much friend. I already found the injector number of my jeep and it is 0445110059 bosch. Now my question will be that they still sell these injectors in the USA? since my liberty the injectors were lost and I didn't know what number they were. it would be great if you helped me find them, thank you very much in advance
No I do not think that injector was sold in the US ever. I would suggest you try www.vmdieselspecialist.com/vm-spare-parts/ for parts, they have new and used parts for some things. If they don't have them used you might ask if they know of any Jeep Breakers in the UK you could see about buying used.
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What do you charge for this service? Are you on the front range?