SUBSCRIBED! After working through the basics of learning to use my Ender 3, making the usual noob mistakes, and finally learning to produce “fairly” consistent prints, I am now learning the finer points behind improving their resolution and strength. I may have also discovered a few things about the machine that I hope to share once I prove their validity. Thanks for your time, presentations like yours save so much trial and error!
Hey Chuck, great tip. Clearly this could occur on any printer. Yeah! Intermittent problems can be incredibly difficult to trace, much easier when something has failed outright.
Thanks for the video on min temperature error on the A13 3D printer. My error was a max, temp. error but using the figures you gave for checking the sensor indicated a complete short. When the manufacturer assembled the head they had cut through the insulation causing a short with the fixing screw. I managed to insulate the wires and reassemble in now shows 107ohms.
Just in the past few days I have noticed the temperature fluctuations on my Ender 3 Pro. I’ll double check the solder joints. Thank you. One of the screws holding the hot end on was loose. I also changed out the nozzle. This was before I watched your video. Edit- Being an Ender 3 Pro the circuit board enclosure is upside down. I checked the solder joints and all are good. The thermistor is showing 121.1k ohms. After putting is all back together I checked the hot end’s thermistor screw and found it loose. I tightened it. Doing a test print. The temperature readings are sort of stable. It is fluctuating between 196° and 201°. Previously it would fluctuate between 200° and 160°, going as low as -14°. I may need to replace the thermistor. An entire new hot end seems to be close in price.
Chuck, just replaced yesterday the thermistor broken of my ender 3 pro, the same specs as original Thermistor 100k Ntc 3950, i tried to print something but i suffer under extrusion, I checked the internal temperature of the heater block with a multimeter, and it gives me 20-25C less than what I set , I checked the thermistor, at room temperature it shows 92.5k ohm , is it within tolerance parameters? or the thermistor is damaged? Can i calibrate to fix the drop of capacity?
I have been getting an intermittent min temp error. Everything looks good most of the time, but the error shows up occasionally and is really annoying. I'll be pulling my board out and taking a look at this!
Well now I'll put this little nugget of information in my knowledge base for future troubleshooting tips. Great video and the information applies to pretty much all printers when you think about it. Sometimes to save money you may end up with sub par workmanship. I know cold or broken solder joints do occur in electronics so good thing I have soldering irons around to repair with.
You saved me! I had installed a new direct drive hotend and afterwords got a -14 degree reading on my extruder. Watched your video and second later was back to printing!!! Thank you so much!!!
Thank you so much! I just got my Ender and this was the first thing it did to me. I wiggled all connections on the board and made sure they were tight (no solder issues, luckily) and it seems to be up and running now!
Hi, I recently had a mintemp error, when I was attempting to head the bed, I have switch the thermistor connections, the temp is reading 31c , there is no mintemp error, is there something with the thermistor cables or heat bed? the wires at the heat bed are not broken. the hotend heats up fine (with the thermistor cable switched or not), its jus the heat bed. Thank you in advanced
I have a similar problem on the nozzle heater connection .I find lead free solder is more liable to have brittle dry joints than the old 60/40 solder .Thank you for very helpful video
Anything on an Extruder temp too high? Even after a brand new hotend? I can't do anything as I can't even confirm the error. Unplugged, but it still seems like the software is locked up. Ender 3 Neo max. Thanks in advance.
I also noticed on my cr-10s, the connection where the bed wires SCREW into the back of the cr-10s box was not making a connection. I took it apart and verified ONE of the thermistor wires had NO connection and the other one did. Just cut the wire and soldered a new one in there. Hopefully, that fixes it for me. Testing now...
My CR-10 mini has trouble getting to, and maintaining 240 degrees (printing ABS). Will get up close to the desired temp, and then drop, then go back up, etc. Is that a similar problem or issue with PID's? Any help is appreciated!
If you're having issues with thermal runaway error and no mintemp error, try taking off the hotend cover and checking how loose the thermistor wire is screwed to the heat block. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN. Mine was loose enough to spin with my fingers. Snugged it just a little and no more problems. Fixed it for me. Happened 1 month into daily use of my new Ender v1. Hope this helps someone. (It explains why this only starts after heating up, the screw or heat block both expand enough to make the connection intermittent)
My 2nd Ender 3 takes 10 ministers to start a print because it can’t keep the temp at 205, it’s god from 200 to 210 back and forth and won’t stick to 205. Is that about the same issue? When it does print, it has much more stringing than the other one and I’m wondering if that’s during the higher temp swings during printing
Awesome video. I have the same problem with bed temperature. Wildly swinging Temperatures and now a min temp error. It's stable as long as i just heat things up and nothing is moving. But as soon as i start a print my bed temperature is all over the place again. I was expecting some kind of abbrasion damage on the thermistor cable, but now i'm almost sure i have to check this soldering connection (well, the neighboring one is the bed-thermistor). Thank you!
Interesting I did not know that the light gray color would possibly indicate a cold solder joint! Oh and that chep cube is pretty freaking cool :-) I'm going to have to make one of them :-)
In my case, the temperature on the display was -14 degrees and if I tried to heat the hotend, the printer would reset. Checking it I saw that one of the wires at the tip of the thermistor had been cut, at first glance it seemed fine but when I took it out of the hotend it was loose, I soldered it with tin and put a heat shrinkable cable although it will soon be time to change it since the tin does not it will withstand so much heat if I use another filament that is not PLA. This happened on an Ender 3 Max
I have a problem with my ender3, the axis where the extruder car is unleveled, which translates to the bed, how can I square the entire structure, or will it have an assembly tutorial in an optimal way?
Hey Chuck, thanks for posting this. I recently had a MINTEMP error on my Ender 3 Pro, replaced the Thermistor and still kept getting it. I checked the circuit board, the solder was still held on firmly and I was left scratching my head. I ordered a new motherboard, installed it, and am currently running a print. Fingers crossed it works. That being said, if I continue getting this error, should the next stop be replacing the heater in the hot-end? Thanks. P.S. The Silent motherboard is exactly as described, my gosh is it whisper quiet and smooth.
@@FilamentFriday So I just replaced the bed thermistor, I suspect It's now either the wiring or how the sensor is taped on, because the bed temp is fluctuating. Will try re-taping it, Is electrical tape okay? Thanks
Hi Chuck, my ender 3 has droppinh temperatures while printing, up to below 190. Is it because of the motherboard issue too? I tried lower down the fan to 70% the temp rises up but never reach desire temp(-5d).
Hi Chuck. I am having an issue with Ender 3 V2 starting. Got nasty MAXTEMP error. Loosening thermistor screw didn't solve the issue. Assumed mainboard is bad. Bought another board and get a loud beep on startup. Nothing shows on display. It seems the printer is not reading the SD card with the latest firmware. Assuming the new board is bad, i bought a second mainboard. Same issue. I am puzzled. Any suggestions?
@@viktorludanyi740 thanks for the reply. I finally figured out the issue. Turns out the firmware file name must be less than 33 characters long. Once o shorted the file name the firmware installed
glad it's not just me having this nozzle is too lowperature problem , I see a lot of people having this problem , so why didn't creality fix it in the first place ?
@@FilamentFridayI have the CR-20 and I have it at 4mm and 60mm/s but it keep's leaving strings I have try a lot from 2mm to 8mm and 40mm/s to 70mm/s and nozzle temp 190-220° and no result
Please forget the earlier Tevo Tronado Hot End comment about -14C, I had a wire spliced wrong. So now it heats, but it is back to the original problem. With the old hot end and Tevo set at 200 C the measured temperature at the hot end was 140s C. The filament was not extruding, just getins soft at best, Now with the new hot end I am getting the same results as before. So the problem must be on the baord? Mine is not intermittent like yours, just won't get hot enough.
Hi Chuck I'm getting the mini temp error but my temp shows fine for the hotend. The bed was showing 516 degrees after restarting and would immediately get the error if I tried to preheat and also if I tried to auto pod tune the bed. I updated the firmware and then the bed would show 0 and I would get the same errors. I checked my wiring and pulled the board and everything looks ok to me. Can I test the bed thermistor with a ohm meter as well and do you know what it should read ?
I have my Ender 3 in a cold but dry shed and in its own enclosure. I find that the bed won't heat up when its really cold (below 4 degrees Celsius) however the hot end is fine. Also when I connect octoprint I get the min temp error as well (I don't get it on the ender 3 screen when not connected to octoprint, the bed temp just flips between 4 and 5 degrees over and over again). I assume that the bed has its own thermistor and on a different pin to the hot end as shown in this video. Perhaps I have a cold solder joint too.
Turns out it wasn't a cold solder joint at all, its just that the printer detected a value under the minimum for the bed and hot end (hot end started playing up when it got colder) due to the temperature outside. All I had to do was to bring the temp of the hot end and the bed above the minimum temperature and it started heating up just fine. To bring the temp above the minimum all I did was breathe warm air on to the bed and hot end X0D. I suppose a hair dryer or something similar would be a more efficient way of doing this in colder weather...
Thank you for your video I am French and apart from your video I have found nothing for this subject on the web. Since a printing fault from my pc to the printer (stop before the end) on my Ender 3 pro. .when I turn on my printer the nozzle starts to heat without stopping. I thought of a problem with the thermistor and I therefore replaced all the components located at the level of the Resultat nozzle. Nothing has changed. I think it can only be a motherboard problem and so I just ordered version 1.1.5 to replace my V1.1.4. What do you think ???
CHEP, looking at ideas to keep ABS sticking well, have you tried heat activated sheets to stick down your prints? I'll be trying once they get here. But wondering if you have done it
I have not tried them. I’ve printed a lot of ABS in the past and an enclosed chamber makes all the difference. A brim also helps prevent warping of the corners.
Great catch! I can see how this would be incredibly frustrating to diagnose without knowing what to look for...noted to check the board should anything go sideways on my sample. Thanks!!!
Fast help! I've changed my sensor, but it has different ending from the last one. (It is black). I've fixed everything but something smells (idk how to explain). What could happen if I put the senzor wrong way to the motherboard?
I'm having a problem where driving the hot end much past 210degC causes it to trigger thermal runaway detection around about ten degrees below the set point. So if I run it to 245 (where I print ABS) at 235 it'll give out on me. Running it only to 235 sees the same behavior: it conks out at 225. Anyway, this *may* be the issue! I'll pull it apart later today and check. Thanks so much!
I have the ender 3 pro, and I noticed I had a temp error, and when I unscrewed the fan, I saw that one of the cables split like a y, one was off,, with no screw, and some white stuff was exposed in the screw hole, do I have to put a new thermistor, or just scew that wire back after stripping it a little ?
Hey loves the videos helped me out a lot but I got a question, my endear 3 always used to heat up and lock to the set temp and here recently I took it apart and cleaned it up added cable clips, now when it heats up it sets and starts printing but the temp will go from 210 to 209 then spike up to 211 then drop back to 210. This process goes on during the hole printing process, is this normal or did I brake something?
@@juannino8859 thank you for that info. i believe i found out why it has been doing that, so i been hearing a buz or annoying sound coming from extruder turns out it was extruder hot end fan so i feel like thats why it started to do that. im no expert just taking a guess.
Hello. I have the same printer as in this video, and I was wondering if you knew why my printer is acting up. My printer keeps cooling down during a print. I would set the temperature before the print, wait for it to heat up, and then hit print on my printer. The temperature stays at the normal levels for both the bed and nozzle until a few minutes into the print, where it decreases to 200 degrees for the nozzle, and 60 degrees for the bed. I already changed the settings for preheating the PLA and ABS filament and I set them both to 220 degrees (nozzle) and 110 degrees (bed). I made sure they saved in the system, but the printer still is decreasing the temperature to the old levels still. How can I stop this?
@@FilamentFriday I have similar problem, I set the print temperature in the slicer for 217 but after a few minutes printing, it drops to 183 for instance. What would you suggest I do? Thanks
I just got an ender 3 and it was working until I clicked preheat pla. It then went to making loud beeps and stuck on the ender dragon screen. Now if I turn it on it is stuck on that screen. If I unplug the thermistor connector I can then navigate the settings or heat the bed but if I plug it back in it goes back to beeping and locks me out again.
Awesome video! I have an ender 3 v2 neo. After a nozzle change it started to be unable to maintain an exact temperature. With 208° set, it goes up to 210 then down to 204 and keeps doing that over and over again. I've updated the firmware but that didn't help at all. Any ideas?
Had the same issue on a voxilab check the output on the drivers. Search you tube video's. It kept stopping and beeping half way through the prints and the motors would run hot and when i adjusted it the min temp warnings went away also. x y z at .95 E at1.2 DC. All 4 were 1.5 which is to much
I have the Ender 3 V2 Neo and most of the times there is no problem, but sometimes after a few minutes in a new print, it stops and yields the extuder temp too low message. I turn it off, turn it on and start the new print and it will work fine and do the print even if it takes hours. So it cannot be any wire in my case otherwise it wuold fail always. No air currents. I'm really puzzled with this issue.
You are amazing. Can you combine power supply and mainbord out of case as another ünit? Mainboard and power supply alrady get hotten but case of ender is getting heating so get rid of these unit from case can help it for cooling. Do you think this like cr-10
Hello, thanks for this information, I have an Ender -3 and when I started to preheat the extruder, it heights a temperature of 164°C and it appears Failed Reset, and I can’t print, can you help me please
Hello the problem was the Sillicone Protector of the extruder, it is very necessary to use it ( cover the extruder) because in this way the Temperature height faster, and it allows to isolate the extruder temp.
I have a problen with my Creality cr10. The display only light blue. I bought a new power suply, mainbord and a new display but nothing works. Can you make a video about it?
Hello, I upgraded from V4.2.2 to a V4.2.7 and i keep getting the E1 Min temp error, got a replacement board of the V4.2.7 and still same issue. I also PID tuned them. I switch back to the V4.2.2 and the error is gone. is it possible for you to share a link of that 2 pin header i cannot find the correct one online. I want to test the thermistor before I buy a new because I can only assume the v4.2.7 is more sensitive to the fluctuations compared to the v4.2.2
I know this post is a bit old, but I swapped boards from the old 8-bit bard to the 32-bit 4.2.7 board and started getting the E1 error. I changed firmware and the error went away.
I have a similar problem, I’ve tried so many things to fix it but nothing seems to work when I turn on my ender 3 it shows a hotend temp of 130 but the hotend is cool to the touch so most likely 20-23 range but then I go to heat up the hotend the temp stays at 130 and get hot if I set it at 185 it probably gets to that temp but the lcd screen display temp doesn’t move from that 130 reading , I’ve even unplugged the thermistor sensor from the motherboard and it still reads that 130 temp, any info or advice would be amazing
I’m just guessing but there could be a resistive short on the thermistor connector that makes it think it’s 130°. You’ll have to take the board out and check solder joints and possible clean it with tooth brush.
CHEP I did that after watching your videos noting still the same, I even just spliced in a new thermistor same results. Could it be the motherboard itself even thing else works perfect
Hey i have a question maybe you can answer for me id sure appreciate it i bought a new hot end and CR touch and extruder but when i loaded the new firmware my heat setting is set at 522/ 0 or 522/245 if i try to heat the nozzel then it tripps a low temp circut and sounds alarm , how do i zero the temp on the startup side so its 0/0 when it starts not 522 it dosent even let you get to 522 degrees so cant understand whats going on with it thanks for any tips you can help me with thanks again
I had to replace my thermistor for the first time in a year in a half TODAY. I love my ender 3, but i dont have thermal tape so when i put the housing back on it gives error again . but when take the housing off no errors and i left it for a long time @temp 230. so is it thermal tape my issue now that i have a new Thermistor? thanks again love your videos
Ive change out my nozzle recently and for some reason ill preheat my printer to 185 for nozzle and then start the print that I want and it will go up to 220 but after it starts the end heat goes down to 170 any advice
@CHEP My Ender 3 just started giving me Thermal Runway issues on my bed. Ive been doing a lot of ABS printing with the bed needing to be 110. I haven't gotten my PLA so idk if the bed will give me the same runway issue with 70C for PLA. any suggestions or info?
Hello CHEP , following the resolution of my problem with your video, the temperature on the screen remains at 0 degrees when printing, but if I test the temperature all works properly, do you have an idea to solve the problem? thank you
Hi, I've got the same error message but the temperature indicated was 101°C don't matter what temperature I set. I've even touched the hotend and it definitely was not at 100 degrees. I think I'll be able to troubleshoot it now I saw your video but seems to me like a faulty thermistor. Thanks for the tip!
I feel soooo dumb. I was sitting here thinking something has gone terribly wrong. Came to this video to problem solve. Little did I know my printer was turned off. :| The display fully functional off the power of th Pi threw me off. I previously had a less than ideal power supply on the pi so when it was plugged in the display would light up but it wouldn't really display correctly with the power OFF on the printer. Newer better power supply is enough to run pretty much everything on the mainboard EXCEPT the heaters. I guess I just panic but watching chuck starting going through the motions of problems solving kicked me into gear and I found my problem USER ERROR! Thanks :)
Thank you I haven't used ender 3 for quite some time When I tried now, the nozzle temperature doesn't cross 180 and it took 20 minutes to get to 180 deg. What is the issue Kindly help
Thank you! Just started getting an error, "The current hot bed and nozzle temperature is too low", causing prints to halt with a screeching beeping noise. Reached out to Creality but it's a weekend, haven't heard back yet. So, might be the thermistor; might be the connections; I have some research/testing to do. Thanks again!
@@WestSidewaysRcDrift Yes, someone (elsewhere) pointed me to a video with the following instructions: remove the screw holding the thermistor; then, pull out the thermistor and wipe the dust off it. That dust is the thermal paste, which has turned into a powder, and that's the root cause. Then replace it, and replace the screw. That will make it work for 4-6 months, and then I'll need to do it again. If I need to do it again, I will consider replacing the thermistor, or perhaps the entire hot end. Hope this helps!
I’m not sure this video is quite what I was looking for, but I need to ask.. I just put my ender 3 together last night. when I went to run a test print earlier, it said I had to wait for the extruder to warm up. I left it for less than five minutes, and when I got back it said that it was 0.04% the temperature it should be, and that it would take 26 days to warm up sufficiently to print. Here’s the thing: I wouldn’t be able to afford to pay the electricity bill if I left my printer on for 3 weeks just to print a 1” low-poly pikachu Any advice?? Please 🙏
wow..nice problem solving! I have similar issue, which randomly occur after 1/2 hours of printing and gave me "min temp error" drove me nut, I cannot finish any bigger print due to this issue. Gotta check the board first.
A few days ago I had a failed print and a badly blocked nozzle. Blocked nozzle? No problem.... I'm used to it! I attempted to heat up the nozzle to 120 degrees to pull out the blocked filament, but it didn't heat up enough to pull. The display reading reported 120 degrees without any error message. I suspected a lose wire on the thermister so I removed the fan housing to take a look and saw that my thermister was lose in the hole. Thinking this might be the problem I replaced it along with a new nozzle and reassembled everything... without first realising there is a little grub screw hidden underneath the cotton insulation on the hot end meant to hold the thermister in place.. Screw tightened and everything reassembled, I turned it back on - and it heated up straight away. But I did notice hot filament oozing from the nozzle... perhaps I now have much better contact between the heater block and thermister? Possibly a slightly hotter than normal hot end? Anyway, once oozing had stopped, I tried another print. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get good bed adhesion for some reason, so I cancelled that print job. Yesterday I attempted to print again with proper bed levelling, but this time I got the err mintemp error when trying to preheat the bed. Neither the bed nor the nozzle would preheat. I persisted thinking it was the room temperature at fault (4 degrees ambient in my cold UK winter warehouse), so I put a heater on to warm the room up a bit. I reset to failsafe on the display but still nothing. Eventually however, I somehow got a temp reading without any error, and I managed to heat up the bed to 60 degrees - this time it started to print! Thanks to your video (the only one on TH-cam), At least I now have a better understanding at what might be going on, and will take a look at the underside of that board for a loose solder joint tomorrow. Much appreciated!
Could you please help me with a problem I'm facing with my ender 3. I recently replaced it's faulty power supply unit, which malfunctioned. Now, when I try heating up the hot end it only goes upto 130 degrees and stops there until it gives me an error "HEATING FAILED PRINTER HALTED PLEASE RESET". it won't go above 130 degrees. Is there a problem with the heating rod in the hot end ?
I have a runaway heated bed on my ver 1 Ender 3. When I turn it on bed heats up to 200+ ! Yikes! I read online its a blown mosfet and ill need to desolder it and add an external one. I also read one post that a firmware flash fixed their problem with a runaway heated bed. I should contact creality for a replacment second generation board , thing is a firehazard and unusable as is. I still really love the damn thing....
hello, I followed your video. but it's not his. I still have the error showing. I change the thermistor, the heater tip. but always the same errors. I don't know what to do anymore ..
The retaining screw should only be finger tight. Tight enough to hold the wires down, but not tight enough to break the VERY thin and fragile leads. If you crank it down, you can break the leads in the thermistor and that causes MINTEMP. If you're sure it isn't that and your error is THERMAL RUNAWAY or MINTEMP, then try run autotune PID.
well i thought this would be it but my ender 3 pro is heating up to the right temp but then cools down to 175 and stays there so i gotta figure out whats wrong and im not getting any errors.
@Doodle Man01 I fixed my issue. My ender needed a new heater cartridge and I put a new thermistor in too. They cost like 20 bucks for a 5 pack. Fixes it in less than 10 mi
@@FilamentFriday interesting. The connection to the board was still hot glued, but it had come loose. Also if u want a quick way to check the thermistor I jus hit it with a heating gun. If temp goes up it's good.
Had this happen to me also with my Ender 3 Pro. I ended up replacing the entire motherboard ($39). Wish I would've seen this first. Guess next time I'll be ready. Thanks!
I just started to encounter this problem on my 3v2 and I have no idea how to fix it. I turn on the printer, preheat for say PLA, and then it takes a really long time for it to heat up but before it can reach the desired temp it will start making a loud, irritating sound and the display says "Nozzle is too low temperature" and I don't know how to fix it. I recently upgraded the hotend to a Creality Spider and it was working great but now I just get this when I try to use it
Hey chep love watching all your videos I just replaced my motherboard cause I had the blue screen. So I replaced it with the 4.2.7 on the ender 3 pro but it giving me a -14 on my thermistor how can I fix this problem hope you can help
SUBSCRIBED! After working through the basics of learning to use my Ender 3, making the usual noob mistakes, and finally learning to produce “fairly” consistent prints, I am now learning the finer points behind improving their resolution and strength. I may have also discovered a few things about the machine that I hope to share once I prove their validity.
Thanks for your time, presentations like yours save so much trial and error!
Hey Chuck, great tip. Clearly this could occur on any printer. Yeah! Intermittent problems can be incredibly difficult to trace, much easier when something has failed outright.
Thanks for the video on min temperature error on the A13 3D printer. My error was a max, temp. error but using the figures you gave for checking the sensor indicated a complete short. When the manufacturer assembled the head they had cut through the insulation causing a short with the fixing screw. I managed to insulate the wires and reassemble in now shows 107ohms.
Just in the past few days I have noticed the temperature fluctuations on my Ender 3 Pro. I’ll double check the solder joints. Thank you.
One of the screws holding the hot end on was loose. I also changed out the nozzle. This was before I watched your video.
Edit-
Being an Ender 3 Pro the circuit board enclosure is upside down.
I checked the solder joints and all are good. The thermistor is showing 121.1k ohms. After putting is all back together I checked the hot end’s thermistor screw and found it loose. I tightened it. Doing a test print. The temperature readings are sort of stable. It is fluctuating between 196° and 201°. Previously it would fluctuate between 200° and 160°, going as low as -14°.
I may need to replace the thermistor. An entire new hot end seems to be close in price.
Chuck, just replaced yesterday the thermistor broken of my ender 3 pro, the same specs as original Thermistor 100k Ntc 3950, i tried to print something but i suffer under extrusion, I checked the internal temperature of the heater block with a multimeter, and it gives me 20-25C less than what I set , I checked the thermistor, at room temperature it shows 92.5k ohm , is it within tolerance parameters? or the thermistor is damaged? Can i calibrate to fix the drop of capacity?
I have been getting an intermittent min temp error. Everything looks good most of the time, but the error shows up occasionally and is really annoying. I'll be pulling my board out and taking a look at this!
Well now I'll put this little nugget of information in my knowledge base for future troubleshooting tips. Great video and the information applies to pretty much all printers when you think about it. Sometimes to save money you may end up with sub par workmanship. I know cold or broken solder joints do occur in electronics so good thing I have soldering irons around to repair with.
You saved me! I had installed a new direct drive hotend and afterwords got a -14 degree reading on my extruder. Watched your video and second later was back to printing!!! Thank you so much!!!
Thank you so much! I just got my Ender and this was the first thing it did to me. I wiggled all connections on the board and made sure they were tight (no solder issues, luckily) and it seems to be up and running now!
Yeah, so my thermistor is dead, thank you anyway.
Great vid! You and Nery are my Ender Gods. 😂 Really, if not for you two I never would have been able to get mine up and running 🔧🔩
Hi, I recently had a mintemp error, when I was attempting to head the bed, I have switch the thermistor connections, the temp is reading 31c , there is no mintemp error, is there something with the thermistor cables or heat bed? the wires at the heat bed are not broken. the hotend heats up fine (with the thermistor cable switched or not), its jus the heat bed. Thank you in advanced
I have a similar problem on the nozzle heater connection .I find lead free solder is more liable to have brittle dry joints than the old 60/40 solder
.Thank you for very helpful video
Anything on an Extruder temp too high? Even after a brand new hotend? I can't do anything as I can't even confirm the error. Unplugged, but it still seems like the software is locked up. Ender 3 Neo max. Thanks in advance.
Run PID tuning.
Great stuff Sir! Those lead free solder joints will be my first fix if my e3 starts misbehaving.
I re-soldered with 63/37 tin/lead solder. I really don’t like using lead free unless really required.
I also noticed on my cr-10s, the connection where the bed wires SCREW into the back of the cr-10s box was not making a connection. I took it apart and verified ONE of the thermistor wires had NO connection and the other one did. Just cut the wire and soldered a new one in there. Hopefully, that fixes it for me. Testing now...
My CR-10 mini has trouble getting to, and maintaining 240 degrees (printing ABS). Will get up close to the desired temp, and then drop, then go back up, etc. Is that a similar problem or issue with PID's? Any help is appreciated!
Possibly but also could be what I had, intermittent connection.
If you're having issues with thermal runaway error and no mintemp error, try taking off the hotend cover and checking how loose the thermistor wire is screwed to the heat block. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN. Mine was loose enough to spin with my fingers. Snugged it just a little and no more problems. Fixed it for me. Happened 1 month into daily use of my new Ender v1. Hope this helps someone. (It explains why this only starts after heating up, the screw or heat block both expand enough to make the connection intermittent)
Hey man! thank you! you save my life with your comment!
My 2nd Ender 3 takes 10 ministers to start a print because it can’t keep the temp at 205, it’s god from 200 to 210 back and forth and won’t stick to 205. Is that about the same issue?
When it does print, it has much more stringing than the other one and I’m wondering if that’s during the higher temp swings during printing
Sounds like something is wrong
Awesome video. I have the same problem with bed temperature. Wildly swinging Temperatures and now a min temp error. It's stable as long as i just heat things up and nothing is moving. But as soon as i start a print my bed temperature is all over the place again. I was expecting some kind of abbrasion damage on the thermistor cable, but now i'm almost sure i have to check this soldering connection (well, the neighboring one is the bed-thermistor). Thank you!
Interesting I did not know that the light gray color would possibly indicate a cold solder joint! Oh and that chep cube is pretty freaking cool :-) I'm going to have to make one of them :-)
I believe they are lead free joints which will make them dull gray as well but a dull color will definitely indicate a cold solder joint.
Hey Nery, how the heck are you?
@@carbide1968 doing as well as i can :-) trin to survive :-) how are you?
In my case, the temperature on the display was -14 degrees and if I tried to heat the hotend, the printer would reset. Checking it I saw that one of the wires at the tip of the thermistor had been cut, at first glance it seemed fine but when I took it out of the hotend it was loose, I soldered it with tin and put a heat shrinkable cable although it will soon be time to change it since the tin does not it will withstand so much heat if I use another filament that is not PLA. This happened on an Ender 3 Max
I have a problem with my ender3, the axis where the extruder car is unleveled, which translates to the bed, how can I square the entire structure, or will it have an assembly tutorial in an optimal way?
Hey Chuck, thanks for posting this. I recently had a MINTEMP error on my Ender 3 Pro, replaced the Thermistor and still kept getting it. I checked the circuit board, the solder was still held on firmly and I was left scratching my head. I ordered a new motherboard, installed it, and am currently running a print. Fingers crossed it works. That being said, if I continue getting this error, should the next stop be replacing the heater in the hot-end? Thanks. P.S. The Silent motherboard is exactly as described, my gosh is it whisper quiet and smooth.
Check your bed thermistor
@@FilamentFriday So I just replaced the bed thermistor, I suspect It's now either the wiring or how the sensor is taped on, because the bed temp is fluctuating. Will try re-taping it, Is electrical tape okay? Thanks
Usually kapton tape is used but it might.
Where can I find the files for ender3 sd card adapter?
looked over your webstie and couldn't find it
Thanks Chuck. Just started having intermittent min temp alarms in one of my v2’s. I’ll check this out. Cheers Karl.
You found the problem?
Hi Chuck, my ender 3 has droppinh temperatures while printing, up to below 190. Is it because of the motherboard issue too? I tried lower down the fan to 70% the temp rises up but never reach desire temp(-5d).
Could be.
Hi Chuck. I am having an issue with Ender 3 V2 starting. Got nasty MAXTEMP error. Loosening thermistor screw didn't solve the issue. Assumed mainboard is bad. Bought another board and get a loud beep on startup. Nothing shows on display. It seems the printer is not reading the SD card with the latest firmware. Assuming the new board is bad, i bought a second mainboard. Same issue. I am puzzled. Any suggestions?
When the srcew on the (temp)wire was too tight, I received a same error message (on the hotend), try to loose a little that screw.
@@viktorludanyi740 thanks for the reply. I finally figured out the issue. Turns out the firmware file name must be less than 33 characters long. Once o shorted the file name the firmware installed
glad it's not just me having this nozzle is too lowperature problem , I see a lot of people having this problem , so why didn't creality fix it in the first place ?
Hi Chuck I was wodnering, you have any video about retraction settings to avoid the retraction strings?
I’m working on that actually. Try 5mm at 50mm/s. That seems to work on many of my printers.
@@FilamentFridayI have the CR-20 and I have it at 4mm and 60mm/s but it keep's leaving strings I have try a lot from 2mm to 8mm and 40mm/s to 70mm/s and nozzle temp 190-220° and no result
Yeah. I’m working on it.
@@FilamentFriday Thaaaaanks
Please forget the earlier Tevo Tronado Hot End comment about -14C, I had a wire spliced wrong. So now it heats, but it is back to the original problem. With the old hot end and Tevo set at 200 C the measured temperature at the hot end was 140s C. The filament was not extruding, just getins soft at best, Now with the new hot end I am getting the same results as before. So the problem must be on the baord? Mine is not intermittent like yours, just won't get hot enough.
Hi Chuck I'm getting the mini temp error but my temp shows fine for the hotend. The bed was showing 516 degrees after restarting and would immediately get the error if I tried to preheat and also if I tried to auto pod tune the bed. I updated the firmware and then the bed would show 0 and I would get the same errors. I checked my wiring and pulled the board and everything looks ok to me. Can I test the bed thermistor with a ohm meter as well and do you know what it should read ?
Chuck, thanks. If I have a problem, I always know I can find a clear explanation from you.
I have my Ender 3 in a cold but dry shed and in its own enclosure. I find that the bed won't heat up when its really cold (below 4 degrees Celsius) however the hot end is fine. Also when I connect octoprint I get the min temp error as well (I don't get it on the ender 3 screen when not connected to octoprint, the bed temp just flips between 4 and 5 degrees over and over again). I assume that the bed has its own thermistor and on a different pin to the hot end as shown in this video. Perhaps I have a cold solder joint too.
Turns out it wasn't a cold solder joint at all, its just that the printer detected a value under the minimum for the bed and hot end (hot end started playing up when it got colder) due to the temperature outside. All I had to do was to bring the temp of the hot end and the bed above the minimum temperature and it started heating up just fine. To bring the temp above the minimum all I did was breathe warm air on to the bed and hot end X0D. I suppose a hair dryer or something similar would be a more efficient way of doing this in colder weather...
hi , i have ender 3 v2 neo. there is an error which says "extruder is too hot" and the printer is beeping . the screen stays with temp error.
Thank you for your video I am French and apart from your video I have found nothing for this subject on the web. Since a printing fault from my pc to the printer (stop before the end) on my Ender 3 pro. .when I turn on my printer the nozzle starts to heat without stopping. I thought of a problem with the thermistor and I therefore replaced all the components located at the level of the Resultat nozzle. Nothing has changed. I think it can only be a motherboard problem and so I just ordered version 1.1.5 to replace my V1.1.4. What do you think ???
That does sound great like a board issue. You will like how quiet the 1.1.5 board makes the printer.
Thank you very much for your answer
CHEP, looking at ideas to keep ABS sticking well, have you tried heat activated sheets to stick down your prints? I'll be trying once they get here. But wondering if you have done it
Heat activated adhesive sheets it should say
I have not tried them. I’ve printed a lot of ABS in the past and an enclosed chamber makes all the difference. A brim also helps prevent warping of the corners.
Great catch! I can see how this would be incredibly frustrating to diagnose without knowing what to look for...noted to check the board should anything go sideways on my sample. Thanks!!!
Fast help! I've changed my sensor, but it has different ending from the last one. (It is black). I've fixed everything but something smells (idk how to explain). What could happen if I put the senzor wrong way to the motherboard?
Interesting, never seen that on a Creality. Thanks Chuck!
I'm having a problem where driving the hot end much past 210degC causes it to trigger thermal runaway detection around about ten degrees below the set point. So if I run it to 245 (where I print ABS) at 235 it'll give out on me. Running it only to 235 sees the same behavior: it conks out at 225.
Anyway, this *may* be the issue! I'll pull it apart later today and check. Thanks so much!
I have the ender 3 pro, and I noticed I had a temp error, and when I unscrewed the fan, I saw that one of the cables split like a y, one was off,, with no screw, and some white stuff was exposed in the screw hole, do I have to put a new thermistor, or just scew that wire back after stripping it a little ?
It’s best to replace it but connecting the broken wires should work.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks!
Hey loves the videos helped me out a lot but I got a question, my endear 3 always used to heat up and lock to the set temp and here recently I took it apart and cleaned it up added cable clips, now when it heats up it sets and starts printing but the temp will go from 210 to 209 then spike up to 211 then drop back to 210. This process goes on during the hole printing process, is this normal or did I brake something?
Such a small variation is fine, if it starts wondering over 3 or 4 degrees start worrying
@@juannino8859 thank you for that info. i believe i found out why it has been doing that, so i been hearing a buz or annoying sound coming from extruder turns out it was extruder hot end fan so i feel like thats why it started to do that. im no expert just taking a guess.
Hello. I have the same printer as in this video, and I was wondering if you knew why my printer is acting up. My printer keeps cooling down during a print. I would set the temperature before the print, wait for it to heat up, and then hit print on my printer. The temperature stays at the normal levels for both the bed and nozzle until a few minutes into the print, where it decreases to 200 degrees for the nozzle, and 60 degrees for the bed. I already changed the settings for preheating the PLA and ABS filament and I set them both to 220 degrees (nozzle) and 110 degrees (bed). I made sure they saved in the system, but the printer still is decreasing the temperature to the old levels still. How can I stop this?
What are the settings in the slicer?
They control the print temperature.
@@FilamentFriday I got it to work. I changed the print temp. In the slicer. Thanks!
@@FilamentFriday I have similar problem, I set the print temperature in the slicer for 217 but after a few minutes printing, it drops to 183 for instance.
What would you suggest I do?
Thanks
Check all connections for loose or broken wires.
Thanks for sharing, I've seen similar on Anet boards as well as on a cheap ramps that wouldnt energise steppers
Thanks a lot I could not find out how to fix it. Then I saw this now I am back up and running. Thanks
on my cr-10s I set my hot end to 205c and pointed the laser gun at the tip of the nozzle and it says 33c am I doing something wrong?
I just got an ender 3 and it was working until I clicked preheat pla. It then went to making loud beeps and stuck on the ender dragon screen. Now if I turn it on it is stuck on that screen. If I unplug the thermistor connector I can then navigate the settings or heat the bed but if I plug it back in it goes back to beeping and locks me out again.
Your sensor is probably shorted or broken.
Awesome video!
I have an ender 3 v2 neo. After a nozzle change it started to be unable to maintain an exact temperature. With 208° set, it goes up to 210 then down to 204 and keeps doing that over and over again. I've updated the firmware but that didn't help at all. Any ideas?
Had the same issue on a voxilab check the output on the drivers. Search you tube video's. It kept stopping and beeping half way through the prints and the motors would run hot and when i adjusted it the min temp warnings went away also. x y z at .95 E at1.2 DC. All 4 were 1.5 which is to much
Hi CHEP. Does the SeeMeCNC extruder bolt right on or do you need new stepper motor on an Ender 3 Pro?
Bolts right on
I have the Ender 3 V2 Neo and most of the times there is no problem, but sometimes after a few minutes in a new print, it stops and yields the extuder temp too low message. I turn it off, turn it on and start the new print and it will work fine and do the print even if it takes hours. So it cannot be any wire in my case otherwise it wuold fail always. No air currents. I'm really puzzled with this issue.
Probably a defective temp sensor.
You are amazing.
Can you combine power supply and mainbord out of case as another ünit?
Mainboard and power supply alrady get hotten but case of ender is getting heating so get rid of these unit from case can help it for cooling.
Do you think this like cr-10
It wouldn’t be easy because all the wires would be too short. Make sure the cooling fan is turning.
What is a good 32 bit replacement for the stock board? Also what is the best replacement display? Thanks for the great videos!
Probably the duet3D board (www.duet3d.com), the touch screen for the Duet.
Hello, thanks for this information, I have an Ender -3 and when I started to preheat the extruder, it heights a temperature of 164°C and it appears Failed Reset, and I can’t print, can you help me please
Not sure. Check bed connections too.
Hello the problem was the Sillicone Protector of the extruder, it is very necessary to use it ( cover the extruder) because in this way the Temperature height faster, and it allows to isolate the extruder temp.
I definitely think you solved the last issue I had . Thank you a thousand!!!!
I have a problen with my Creality cr10. The display only light blue. I bought a new power suply, mainbord and a new display but nothing works.
Can you make a video about it?
my ender 3 heats bed and nozzle, but won't start printing until I manually change nozzle temp up or down, any ideas?
Hey chuck my ender 3 shows "MinTemp error printing halted please restart" while printing, but when printing small parts it doesn't show an error.
Hello, I upgraded from V4.2.2 to a V4.2.7 and i keep getting the E1 Min temp error, got a replacement board of the V4.2.7 and still same issue. I also PID tuned them. I switch back to the V4.2.2 and the error is gone. is it possible for you to share a link of that 2 pin header i cannot find the correct one online. I want to test the thermistor before I buy a new because I can only assume the v4.2.7 is more sensitive to the fluctuations compared to the v4.2.2
I know this post is a bit old, but I swapped boards from the old 8-bit bard to the 32-bit 4.2.7 board and started getting the E1 error. I changed firmware and the error went away.
I have a similar problem, I’ve tried so many things to fix it but nothing seems to work when I turn on my ender 3 it shows a hotend temp of 130 but the hotend is cool to the touch so most likely 20-23 range but then I go to heat up the hotend the temp stays at 130 and get hot if I set it at 185 it probably gets to that temp but the lcd screen display temp doesn’t move from that 130 reading , I’ve even unplugged the thermistor sensor from the motherboard and it still reads that 130 temp, any info or advice would be amazing
I’m just guessing but there could be a resistive short on the thermistor connector that makes it think it’s 130°. You’ll have to take the board out and check solder joints and possible clean it with tooth brush.
CHEP I did that after watching your videos noting still the same, I even just spliced in a new thermistor same results. Could it be the motherboard itself even thing else works perfect
Yes. Sounds like a motherboard issue to me.
CHEP thank you I really appreciate you taking someone time out to answer my random questions
Hey i have a question maybe you can answer for me id sure appreciate it i bought a new hot end and CR touch and extruder but when i loaded the new firmware my heat setting is set at 522/ 0 or 522/245 if i try to heat the nozzel then it tripps a low temp circut and sounds alarm , how do i zero the temp on the startup side so its 0/0 when it starts not 522 it dosent even let you get to 522 degrees so cant understand whats going on with it thanks for any tips you can help me with thanks again
Sounds like the hotend thermistor is wrong value or shorted.
I had to replace my thermistor for the first time in a year in a half TODAY. I love my ender 3, but i dont have thermal tape so when i put the housing back on it gives error again . but when take the housing off no errors and i left it for a long time @temp 230. so is it thermal tape my issue now that i have a new Thermistor? thanks again love your videos
Ive change out my nozzle recently and for some reason ill preheat my printer to 185 for nozzle and then start the print that I want and it will go up to 220 but after it starts the end heat goes down to 170 any advice
Run a PID tune on it.
Thanks for the video, I had the exact same problem. This video saved me a lot of grief!!!
@CHEP My Ender 3 just started giving me Thermal Runway issues on my bed. Ive been doing a lot of ABS printing with the bed needing to be 110. I haven't gotten my PLA so idk if the bed will give me the same runway issue with 70C for PLA. any suggestions or info?
Try it. I’m not sure.
Wasnt my issue but it took me to the right place. Thanks man!
Hello CHEP , following the resolution of my problem with your video, the temperature on the screen remains at 0 degrees when printing, but if I test the temperature all works properly, do you have an idea to solve the problem? thank you
That’s strange. No idea on that one.
Wow, what a weird thing to happen! But it's good to know it can happen! Thanks!!! 😊
Hi, I've got the same error message but the temperature indicated was 101°C don't matter what temperature I set. I've even touched the hotend and it definitely was not at 100 degrees. I think I'll be able to troubleshoot it now I saw your video but seems to me like a faulty thermistor. Thanks for the tip!
I feel soooo dumb. I was sitting here thinking something has gone terribly wrong. Came to this video to problem solve. Little did I know my printer was turned off. :| The display fully functional off the power of th Pi threw me off. I previously had a less than ideal power supply on the pi so when it was plugged in the display would light up but it wouldn't really display correctly with the power OFF on the printer. Newer better power supply is enough to run pretty much everything on the mainboard EXCEPT the heaters. I guess I just panic but watching chuck starting going through the motions of problems solving kicked me into gear and I found my problem USER ERROR! Thanks :)
Awesome! I'm glad you got it fixed. I hope I don't get this issue I'm terrible at soldering :)
Thank you
I haven't used ender 3 for quite some time
When I tried now, the nozzle temperature doesn't cross 180 and it took 20 minutes to get to 180 deg. What is the issue
Kindly help
Thank you! Just started getting an error, "The current hot bed and nozzle temperature is too low", causing prints to halt with a screeching beeping noise. Reached out to Creality but it's a weekend, haven't heard back yet. So, might be the thermistor; might be the connections; I have some research/testing to do. Thanks again!
same problem here any clue how to fix it?
@@WestSidewaysRcDrift Yes, someone (elsewhere) pointed me to a video with the following instructions: remove the screw holding the thermistor; then, pull out the thermistor and wipe the dust off it. That dust is the thermal paste, which has turned into a powder, and that's the root cause. Then replace it, and replace the screw.
That will make it work for 4-6 months, and then I'll need to do it again. If I need to do it again, I will consider replacing the thermistor, or perhaps the entire hot end.
Hope this helps!
Mine is doing this but for the bed??? I just changed the bowden for a direct drive and I got the error when I turned it on for the first time.
I am stuck on this now. Did you get any fixes for this? Bed temperature doesn't work instantly beeps
Be careful your Prusa is going to fall!
Great video :)
I’m not sure this video is quite what I was looking for, but I need to ask..
I just put my ender 3 together last night. when I went to run a test print earlier, it said I had to wait for the extruder to warm up. I left it for less than five minutes, and when I got back it said that it was 0.04% the temperature it should be, and that it would take 26 days to warm up sufficiently to print.
Here’s the thing: I wouldn’t be able to afford to pay the electricity bill if I left my printer on for 3 weeks just to print a 1” low-poly pikachu
Any advice?? Please 🙏
wow..nice problem solving! I have similar issue, which randomly occur after 1/2 hours of printing and gave me "min temp error" drove me nut, I cannot finish any bigger print due to this issue. Gotta check the board first.
"Please God, may I have a successful print?"
God: "Best I can do is troubleshoot hell"
A few days ago I had a failed print and a badly blocked nozzle. Blocked nozzle? No problem.... I'm used to it!
I attempted to heat up the nozzle to 120 degrees to pull out the blocked filament, but it didn't heat up enough to pull. The display reading reported 120 degrees without any error message. I suspected a lose wire on the thermister so I removed the fan housing to take a look and saw that my thermister was lose in the hole. Thinking this might be the problem I replaced it along with a new nozzle and reassembled everything... without first realising there is a little grub screw hidden underneath the cotton insulation on the hot end meant to hold the thermister in place..
Screw tightened and everything reassembled, I turned it back on - and it heated up straight away. But I did notice hot filament oozing from the nozzle... perhaps I now have much better contact between the heater block and thermister? Possibly a slightly hotter than normal hot end? Anyway, once oozing had stopped, I tried another print. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get good bed adhesion for some reason, so I cancelled that print job. Yesterday I attempted to print again with proper bed levelling, but this time I got the err mintemp error when trying to preheat the bed. Neither the bed nor the nozzle would preheat. I persisted thinking it was the room temperature at fault (4 degrees ambient in my cold UK winter warehouse), so I put a heater on to warm the room up a bit. I reset to failsafe on the display but still nothing. Eventually however, I somehow got a temp reading without any error, and I managed to heat up the bed to 60 degrees - this time it started to print!
Thanks to your video (the only one on TH-cam), At least I now have a better understanding at what might be going on, and will take a look at the underside of that board for a loose solder joint tomorrow. Much appreciated!
Glad I could help.
Great video! Yup, I would have soldered the other connectors while in there!
Nice... thanks man. I'm pulling mine apart tomorrow
Would anyone have tried Heat Transfer Paste on the hot end of the thermistor to get a more accurate reading of the temperature ?
Had this error and the wiring had just worked itself a little loose somehow. Thanks!
I’m getting a 1 degree +/- not sure if this is a problem? I’ve never noticed this before
Hello from Argentina, check with the ender 3 pro, I get to touch Error Too Far, what does it mean and how to fix it? Thanks for the help.
Your Z offset is to large. I use zero. Check it in your slicer.
my ender3 v2 marks 30c in hotend and bed, is this normal?
Could you please help me with a problem I'm facing with my ender 3.
I recently replaced it's faulty power supply unit, which malfunctioned. Now, when I try heating up the hot end it only goes upto 130 degrees and stops there until it gives me an error "HEATING FAILED PRINTER HALTED PLEASE RESET". it won't go above 130 degrees.
Is there a problem with the heating rod in the hot end ?
Sounds like it’s heating too slow. Did you use the same wattage power suppply?
Is this different from the cr-10 mini?
Same board. So could happen there as well.
Good catch! I would have never found that. I've also never soldered anything in my life. I suppose I should learn...
I have a runaway heated bed on my ver 1 Ender 3. When I turn it on bed heats up to 200+ ! Yikes!
I read online its a blown mosfet and ill need to desolder it and add an external one. I also read one post that a firmware flash fixed their problem with a runaway heated bed.
I should contact creality for a replacment second generation board , thing is a firehazard and unusable as is.
I still really love the damn thing....
hello, I followed your video. but it's not his. I still have the error showing. I change the thermistor, the heater tip. but always the same errors. I don't know what to do anymore ..
The retaining screw should only be finger tight. Tight enough to hold the wires down, but not tight enough to break the VERY thin and fragile leads. If you crank it down, you can break the leads in the thermistor and that causes MINTEMP. If you're sure it isn't that and your error is THERMAL RUNAWAY or MINTEMP, then try run autotune PID.
well i thought this would be it but my ender 3 pro is heating up to the right temp but then cools down to 175 and stays there so i gotta figure out whats wrong and im not getting any errors.
Check your advanced slicer settings maybe. Sometimes a different temperature is accidentally set for a certain layer vs the first layer.
@@astarrobotics I could try that but I don’t think that’s the problem
Did you find the issue. I'm having the same issue on my ender pro 3. I already changed the temperature thermistor with no luck solving it
@@shawnh2870 sadly no its a bust trying to figure where to sell
@Doodle Man01 I fixed my issue. My ender needed a new heater cartridge and I put a new thermistor in too. They cost like 20 bucks for a 5 pack. Fixes it in less than 10 mi
Just woke up to this error this morning. Thanks!
Glad I could help.
@@FilamentFriday interesting. The connection to the board was still hot glued, but it had come loose. Also if u want a quick way to check the thermistor I jus hit it with a heating gun. If temp goes up it's good.
if u getting temp error change the heater cartridge n upgrade it while your there
@@wayneuk no, however the error is back. Think I need to take out the board and check the solder.
Nice vid! Keep the work up
Ender 3 come with error of mintemp bed problem ,any solution for this error
ENDER 3 - MINTEMP ERROR and TEMPERATURE ISSUES
th-cam.com/video/41ZAwYC_-wE/w-d-xo.html
Had this happen to me also with my Ender 3 Pro. I ended up replacing the entire motherboard ($39). Wish I would've seen this first. Guess next time I'll be ready. Thanks!
I just started to encounter this problem on my 3v2 and I have no idea how to fix it. I turn on the printer, preheat for say PLA, and then it takes a really long time for it to heat up but before it can reach the desired temp it will start making a loud, irritating sound and the display says "Nozzle is too low temperature" and I don't know how to fix it. I recently upgraded the hotend to a Creality Spider and it was working great but now I just get this when I try to use it
This happened to me on my second print out of the box and I can’t fix it. I didn’t upgrade the hotend though. Did you find a fix?
Did any of you find the solution? Because I also have the same problem
@@th3p0pman51 This is exactly what I'm getting on mine that I just put together
Try for bad solder joint at circuit board green connector solder joint. to board .
Did you check if your in the correct voltage for your printer? (late to the party here but this is a common solution specifically for the 3v2)
Hey chep love watching all your videos I just replaced my motherboard cause I had the blue screen. So I replaced it with the 4.2.7 on the ender 3 pro but it giving me a -14 on my thermistor how can I fix this problem hope you can help
Maybe check this: th-cam.com/video/41ZAwYC_-wE/w-d-xo.html
My nozzle says it is -14° and also send me the "mini temp error halted, reset" leyend