In most cases the problem is a white powder residue on the thermistor. Just pull it out and clean the white powder off and blow out the hole, then reassemble. It's that easy. This happens a few weeks to few months after getting a new Ender 3. Just depends on how much you use it. Occam's razor, the simplest solution is usually the correct one.
That’s good information for everyone. I pinned it to the top so others can see it. I tried to communicate with Crealty before and the only response I got sent me to a diagnostic video saying to replace the sensor or the entire board.
I've used the crap out of mine in 5 months and finally ran into this problem. I am trying this method first. I definitely saw a bunch of white dust fall out of the hole and off the thermistor end when I unscrewed it. Hopefully the easy fix works. I am not very good with my hands on tiny stuff like this. Total clumsy hands. Assembling this printer was quiet the experience lmao.
I really appreciate how clear you are in your descriptions, and that you actually show the entire process. I've been reading site after site and the photos shown in ALL cases, in a word, suck. Thank you for this great walk-through! (I have an Ender 3 Pro less than a month old that has started doing this, I've been down for two days trying to really grasp what is going on).
this is SO much better than Creality's video on the same topic! They make it seem like its necessary to remove the whole wiring harness from the board! I just ordered a new thermistor but will be cutting and splicing it instead. Thanks for making it much simpler!
Thank you. I just want the video to be helpful. This issue bugged me for a bit. They actually do have a video about repairing it the same way that I did in the video. But for some reason (maybe money?) they don’t link that video if you speak with them about how to repair the issue.
Was a little scared to start cutting wires as I'm not experienced, but got it done. The shirk wrap solder sleeves are fantastic. Finished two weeks agon and probably have 24 hours of printing with no more interruptions. Many Thanks. (Subscribed)
YO thanks this wasnt my issue but you still helped me fix others! i was getting the dreaded E1 and my extruder nozzle needed replaced and now its all better. Thank you again
I have the E1 issue aswell but I cant figure out how to resolve it, maybe I can try again bc I just replaced the thermistor, but did you do the dust cleaning method?
Edited the text! Thank you so much for the video @S-Technology and the part recommendation. It saved me a lot of time compared to what it would have taken to replace the entire cable. And it worked like a charm! My apologies for the confusion, @S-Technology. !!!!
commenting because I love the comic sans with the guitar intro like you're about to give a presentation. gave me some nostalgia lol. Thanks again for the helpful vid
I didn't need to replace it, but your video was helpful, nonetheless. Turns out the screw holding my thermistor was loose out of the box. I wiggled the wire a bit then tightened it up; works great now!
Thanks for the video. I found the white powder surrounding the thermistor, but after cleaning the head got hot, but not enough to melt the filament. I cranked the temp up to 255 C, but still the filament did not melt. I guess I new a new thermistor.
This has just happened to me after flogging the Ender 3 Pro without a break for about 15 months. I have removed the fan shroud and found it clogged with dust as well as part of the hotend, I'm hoping this will fix the issue but the next thing to try is removing the thermistor as suggested. Should all this fail I have a new thermistor ordered and arriving soon. Thanks for the tip.
Great! Thank you for sharing this! I’ve had my Ender 3 for only a month and a half and the thermistor already failed. It doesn’t read the temp at all. It just says error. So I assume the wire is broken somewhere but whatever at this point I’m just gonna order that kit and put a new one in.
Another tip, if you have a soldering iron is to unsolder the speaker from the display board. If you aren't concerned with losing scrolling beeps - this prevents the obnoxious, head splitting beeping.
I know you saw the comment saying it's sometimes that it got dust on it but I've also heard some people say that it happens when the screw just needs to be tightened.
I did see that a few times on here. The screw being loose or the connector on the mother board being loose (or damaged) are all things that can also cause it to happen.
I took a good look a the thermistor, and apparently one of the two wires to my thermistor was detached! what i did was twisted them back together and it worked like a charm!
Thank You for your knowledge just got that code this morning and thought WTF I just got this machine and it's been good so far gonna clean that problem area if that don't work I'll replace that connection
THANK YOU. All my stuff has been breaking and needed to print something tonight but alas this issue has been building up for WEEKS and I knew this repair was coming, but I had made it into a big deal in my head. Thanks for sharing what your issue was and how you solved it because this has been driving me nuts and confirms my suspicions about the thermistor. Im managing to trick it into printing for now but its a bit of a luck game and a lot of patience and babysitting
My printer makes the same sound, but I don't know if it's the same issue. I'm in PA. It's mid November. It's cold. My printer is out on the porch where it is screened-in, no windows. I only been using my printer since June, and never have an issue.. I have been printing since then, even in the cold (even when it's 40 degrees out it was printing fine especially with the dry box I bought for it). Today when I went to preheat the bed and nozzle, it made that sound. Is it because it is now 30 degrees? I don't know how much it's going to warm up weather-wise, but is it because of the cold weather? Or is it this problem. Thanks in advance.
The thermistor screw on mine is off but the wire won't come out. The whole thing is a bit gunky, but it could also be the plastic bit you mentioned. How do I pull the wire out now?
great video, I experienced problems lately that my printer in the middle of its print gives the "Heating Failed" error. i replaces the Heater cartridge and Thermistor but still gives this problem... at around 150-180 °C the problem occurs. any tips what i can do ?
so far ive spliced in those thermistors by just twisting and insulating the wires, although it would be weird, because it had worked for months before, i wouldnt be surprised if that is the problem.
For now, since the hotend and Teflon were new, I also cleaned them, I ruled out any reason related to dirt or accumulation of material. I thought about a bad contact of the thermistor (temperature sensor I call it), since the way of securing the cable and the sensor itself is not that good. I removed the screw, checked the end and then tightened the cable and put it in place. Without putting the screw in, I turned on the printer and the message no longer appeared. I replaced the screw and the message appeared again, this when turning on. I removed the screw and noticed that the sheathing of the cables was damaged. When I put the screw in, it made contact with both (I don't know if negative or positive, maybe it doesn't have polarity, I don't know), whatever the case, I covered part of the indicated cables with heat shrink tubes, obviously I had to cut them longitudinally to be able to put them in. I put the sensor in place and the screw. When powering on, the error message no longer appears. The display appears to show the correct temperature, different from the ambient temperature it appears to show when the sensor is disconnected. Greetings 😁😁)
Also the thermistor is put in the machine with thermal paste, like you would use to mount your cooler to your processor when building a PC. This paste dries out and becomes ineffective after about 1 1/2 - 2 years or so. Removing, cleaning and replacing the thermal paste is a maintenance item that will fix the problem. I was having an issue with inconsistent temps and thermal shutdowns (nozzle too cold) after about 1 1/2 years of owning my ender 3 v2 neo and replacing the paste fixed it perfectly.
gracias me ayudaste a encontrar el error :D mi error fue q el soplador de capa soplaba el termistor lo corri un poco para abajo sin q toque el termistor y logre solucionarlo
Yeah I believe that would cause the error for the plate thermistor. Resoldering isn't too hard. It's wires instead of micro-electronics. You can do it.
I got a slightly different reading error on my cr-10s. When it gets within +/- 5 degrees of my target print temp it makes the same horrific beep and says "E1 failed to heat, please restart." I've currently tried doing PID tuning and I've checked the heat cartridge and it doesn't have any damage or issues I'm aware of. Yet after checking that and running the PID tuning in Pronterface I'm still getting the issue. My next thing to check is the power connections to the power supply and mainboard. If that doesn't work should I just try replacing my heat cartridge and thermistor? Been asking around for any advice, since this printer has lasted me 3-4 years so far, and I've not bought any others as of yet.
Yeah. I would say so. Even if it’s not making contact now you would have to think of how many little movements the nozzle and heat block make while printing. If it’s a little worn it could get worse over time.
But how did you know which way to hook up the wires? Also, how did you exactly get the thermistor to stay in the hole? Then you're supposed to screw in the screw while the termmistor is in the hole too?
There's no polarity for the thermistor, so it doesn't matter which wires go where. (like for a resistor) You put the thermistor into it's specific hole then bend the wires close to the thermistor into a round shape. Then use the screw on the hole below to hold those bent wires against the block so the thermistor doesn't back out.
I have also found out if I printed a great deal layers start failing I believe have a bad Thermistor, I started using it again and small stuff I could print with fewer layers but, when I got up in large prints it would fail. melting or not staying together is a tell tell sign it need replaced.
So I was doing an hours long large print and at about 3/4 of the way through it the printer stopped and gave this error message - 'Thermal Runaway: Bed. Printer Halted. Please Reset.' Up to this point it was working just fine. I turned the printer off let it sit for a bit, turned it back on and resumed the print. and a few minutes later the same error message happened. I can still print small things as long as they pretty much stay in the center of the bed. The board in my printer is the Creality v4.2.7 The firmware is Marlin 2.0.6 Ender - 3.
Hi. in my case, there is not a E1 warm. just the "THERMAL RUN AWAY Printer halted' text and thats all. I tried to move cables for if a false contacts appears but machine stills works normally l. Like you, printer starts fine but in some moment, will song a beeper and printer stops.
is it the same process for the ender 5? I'm not that technical and experienced when it comes to this things but i want to try to fix it myself thank youu.
If it is the same hot end as an Ender 3 it should be the same process. It appears the be the same if it is still stock. Just take your time. If I can do it, you can too.
I haven’t done one yet. I haven’t changed my hot end and I don’t really print parts that need a lot of detail. If I do it I’ll record the process so everyone can see it. Might be a good laugh.
for whatever wild reason, thermistor that i had in my ender, was epoxied to the heating element... now i have to replace heating thing, square thing that holds it and the termistor
Honestly I haven't modified the settings to much. It is pretty close to stock. I also mostly print in various types of PLA with a nozzle temp of 200 and a bed temp of 50.
I don’t believe it has a polarity. It constantly measures the resistance which changes with the temperature. At least that’s what I read before I changed mine. 🤔
I actually found that my ender 3's thermistor screw was undersized leading to unscrewing overtime but by the time I realised I screwed it back so many times that it ate through the thermistor wires and now I'm here since the reduced resistance leads to 10-20C lower temperatures recorded than what it is and I'm justnot comfortable with the idea of just settign that much higher for obvious reasons.
Every time you splice you cut behind the current sleeve, so it's always just one connection. I think you'll notice once you don't have anything left to cut.
after replacing thermistor and updating firmware and still getting this E1 runaway fault randomly what should i do next? this printer has only a few hundred hours on it.
My understanding is that the error can be caused by the Thermistor at the nozzle, under the print bed, or the plugs on the main board of the unit (That the above mentioned sensors plug into). Have you been able to see the readout before the error triggers? Do you see what temp is moving more than normal? That can give a clue.
Thx my printer is almost year old and just started. Ugh will need to replace my thermistor also as tonight the 2nd time mine buzzzzzesss hehe. So i knew hey FLATLINER!! Charge!! Clear ! Ok doc we have a pulse 😂
@@S-Technology what i suspect the issue was , maybe bit loose with the screw. As thermistor must also physically make contact to be accurate with the temp. I pulled it out no dirt whatsoever and put it in again fastened screw. And tested and my temp was more stable like normal. Temp didnt flucuate as much. So tonight or tomorrow will just re level bed and print again
Not by replacing the thermistor near the print nozzle. That only controls how hot the nozzle gets for the filament. There is a separate thermistor under the bed that helps control the heating of the bed. It is removed a different way but can be replaced with the same thermistor as in the nozzle. So replacing that one also "could" help with overheating. But there is also the bed's heating elements, or the wrong voltage coming from the main board, that could also cause the bed to overheat.
There are a lot of variables. My settings may not work perfectly for you. What printer are you using? An Ender? What material do you want to print? Honestly just stick with the basics. Work on getting it level. Stick with some simple material like PLA. Don’t change too many things at once otherwise you wont know what is improving your print or hurting it. You also have to learn about your particular machine. Mine has a low spot on the bed I had to figure how to compensate for. It just takes time. It’s progress, not perfection. You can do it.
@@S-Technology im currently using ender 3 and print a pla+ and pla wood on it ... i watch a lot of video here in youtube and tried different settings on it but nothing works :(
For PLA I am usually starting with a nozzle of 200 and a bed temp of 50. That usually works well for me for adhesion. I have had some filament brands that I’ve had to increase the temps up like 10 degrees. Print something small to test a new filament when you get it to see.
what can I do if my thermistors come with no isolation? like, thermistors just with naked wire 3 cm long? i cannot find thermistor like in this video, and i don't want to order delivery from other continent just to repair 140$ printer
From what I researched there are basically 3 things that could cause the error. 1) the thermistor by the nozzle like in the video. 2) the thermistor under the bed. 3) the plugs for either on the motherboard. The thermistors are small and fragile, and the QC of Enders isn’t the best. So it’s possible it could have been damaged in freight.
As far as I can tell it keeps going. It’s supposed to be a warning that the printer lost control of the heating components. (On nozzle and/or bed). You don’t want it happening while away. Possible fire risk.
ok let's see if you can help me solve my problem.. I have an alfawise u10 but I notice that the software is the same as the ender. I had the same error on the display of the machine and I replaced the whole hot end block...thermistor and heating cartridge but it doesn't work.. Now it gives me the message "heating failed..printer halted..please reset" What can I do? How do you reset the machine? Heeeeeelp!! Thanks in advance!!!
Hmm... Have you checked the wiring on everything near the hot end? Thermistor and heating cartridge placed correctly? It sounds like either something is loose or not getting the correct voltage. I would also check the connectors on your motherboard to make sure nothing is bent or even worse melting. If everything seems okay you may need to check the voltage being pulled by your hot end components. Something is off that is triggering a fail safe to stop the printer. When it says to "reset" that is simply turning it off and then back on after several seconds. Its a "Hard Reset" to clear out all the sensor data.
@@S-Technology Thanks for the answer! I fixed my problem by also asking for help from a printer manufacturer. And in fact, as you said, it was a voltage problem, or rather, something had burned in the board inside the connector that connects the machine to the power supply. Changed that everything is back to normal! Thanks again for the suggestions!
@@S-Technology yes the printer is pretty big. at the moment I collaborate with a foundry. I make enlargements of sculptures which are then retouched in wax or other materials. So it's not just for hobby but this printer is starting to get old and giving problems... I was considering buying another one! any advice on a 300 x 300 x 350?
I'm not sure about the Neo but it should be a similar process. A easy no cost fix is to try what 3D FPV Club mentioned (in the pinned comment). See if there is any powder that comes off the thermistor and then place it back in. It seems to be a issue the printers have after the first few prints.
Simple buy your exchange/repair Hotends. They come for about 15 Euro from Chine with a heating cartridge and the thermistor. Don´t understand that you have no thermistor over. The problem is mostly that the Ohm Resistant changes and then you have no usable result. No problem, i changed it only once and it works fine. Many times the people have more problems because they build in connectors between the cables for faster change. The problem is that some of these connectors don´t like heat and bend, or after 10 reconnects you don´t get contact. Solder it directly together and then it should work fine.
I'm not sure. That sounds like it would be something to di with the voltage. Like a bad power delivery cable or plug on the mother board that isn't consistent and causes an outage.
Just making sure, It's for a ender 3 and you are placing it back in the lower hole, right? The top one is threaded for the screw. is it larger than the one that was removed from your printer?
![[안방1열 풀캠4K] 베이비몬스터 'DRIP' (BABYMONSTER FullCam)│@SBS Inkigayo 241110](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AQ4RIghEvUs/mqdefault.jpg)
In most cases the problem is a white powder residue on the thermistor. Just pull it out and clean the white powder off and blow out the hole, then reassemble. It's that easy. This happens a few weeks to few months after getting a new Ender 3. Just depends on how much you use it. Occam's razor, the simplest solution is usually the correct one.
Thank you I thought I was going to have to buy something but that fixed it❤
@@itsadamdatboi4895 You are welcome brother. This is a common problem on all new Ender 3 printers.
That’s good information for everyone. I pinned it to the top so others can see it. I tried to communicate with Crealty before and the only response I got sent me to a diagnostic video saying to replace the sensor or the entire board.
@@S-Technology thanks brother. just trying to save a few people some headaches and money.
I've used the crap out of mine in 5 months and finally ran into this problem. I am trying this method first. I definitely saw a bunch of white dust fall out of the hole and off the thermistor end when I unscrewed it. Hopefully the easy fix works. I am not very good with my hands on tiny stuff like this. Total clumsy hands. Assembling this printer was quiet the experience lmao.
I really appreciate how clear you are in your descriptions, and that you actually show the entire process. I've been reading site after site and the photos shown in ALL cases, in a word, suck. Thank you for this great walk-through! (I have an Ender 3 Pro less than a month old that has started doing this, I've been down for two days trying to really grasp what is going on).
Thank you. I just wanted to make something helpful for others.
this is SO much better than Creality's video on the same topic! They make it seem like its necessary to remove the whole wiring harness from the board! I just ordered a new thermistor but will be cutting and splicing it instead. Thanks for making it much simpler!
Thank you. I just want the video to be helpful. This issue bugged me for a bit.
They actually do have a video about repairing it the same way that I did in the video. But for some reason (maybe money?) they don’t link that video if you speak with them about how to repair the issue.
it`s all in the sales it`s great for a while, until you have to piece the old with the new together.
Was a little scared to start cutting wires as I'm not experienced, but got it done. The shirk wrap solder sleeves are fantastic. Finished two weeks agon and probably have 24 hours of printing with no more interruptions. Many Thanks. (Subscribed)
Great job going for it.
Thank you for subscribing.
A year later and still very helpful!!! Simple and straight forward!!
Great help I didn't think I could do it but a splice is nice. I am going to try this.
YO thanks this wasnt my issue but you still helped me fix others! i was getting the dreaded E1 and my extruder nozzle needed replaced and now its all better. Thank you again
I have the E1 issue aswell but I cant figure out how to resolve it, maybe I can try again bc I just replaced the thermistor, but did you do the dust cleaning method?
@@PhillipJFry69420 i just replaced my entire nozzle and made sure the extruder wasnt clogged :/
Edited the text!
Thank you so much for the video @S-Technology and the part recommendation. It saved me a lot of time compared to what it would have taken to replace the entire cable. And it worked like a charm!
My apologies for the confusion, @S-Technology. !!!!
I’m glad to hear that it was helpful.
And no need to apologize.
commenting because I love the comic sans with the guitar intro like you're about to give a presentation. gave me some nostalgia lol. Thanks again for the helpful vid
I didn't need to replace it, but your video was helpful, nonetheless. Turns out the screw holding my thermistor was loose out of the box. I wiggled the wire a bit then tightened it up; works great now!
Thanks for an easy to follow repair video. Got mine up and running again for $10 and didn't have to bring it in for service
I’m glad it was helpful.
Great video! You've just enabled me to fix my printer by replacing the hot-end thermistor. Thanks!
Man this right here is exactly what I needed. Cheers.
I just came home from work to hear that awful sound today. And an angry cat. Thanks for the how to. I think I can do this
You can definitely do it. Well, fix the thermistor I mean. Handling an angry cat can be more dangerous. Good luck.
Easy instructions. Fixed my issue 1st try. Thanks!
I'm glad it helped.
thanks for this simple but elegant video...
Thanks for the video. I found the white powder surrounding the thermistor, but after cleaning the head got hot, but not enough to melt the filament. I cranked the temp up to 255 C, but still the filament did not melt. I guess I new a new thermistor.
Tthank you very much. Botucatu-Brazil. Friendly hug 🤗
This has just happened to me after flogging the Ender 3 Pro without a break for about 15 months. I have removed the fan shroud and found it clogged with dust as well as part of the hotend, I'm hoping this will fix the issue but the next thing to try is removing the thermistor as suggested. Should all this fail I have a new thermistor ordered and arriving soon. Thanks for the tip.
Great! Thank you for sharing this!
I’ve had my Ender 3 for only a month and a half and the thermistor already failed. It doesn’t read the temp at all. It just says error. So I assume the wire is broken somewhere but whatever at this point I’m just gonna order that kit and put a new one in.
Another tip, if you have a soldering iron is to unsolder the speaker from the display board. If you aren't concerned with losing scrolling beeps - this prevents the obnoxious, head splitting beeping.
I know you saw the comment saying it's sometimes that it got dust on it but I've also heard some people say that it happens when the screw just needs to be tightened.
I did see that a few times on here. The screw being loose or the connector on the mother board being loose (or damaged) are all things that can also cause it to happen.
Thank for the video! It stressing me out all day
I took a good look a the thermistor, and apparently one of the two wires to my thermistor was detached! what i did was twisted them back together and it worked like a charm!
thank you this help me a lot it happened to me and I got so scared that it broke thanks for the help
It’s a sound that can scare you if you’re not ready for it.
I’m glad I was able to help.
Thank You for your knowledge just got that code this morning and thought WTF I just got this machine and it's been good so far gonna clean that problem area if that don't work I'll replace that connection
I hope it gets back to working for you soon.
THANK YOU. All my stuff has been breaking and needed to print something tonight but alas this issue has been building up for WEEKS and I knew this repair was coming, but I had made it into a big deal in my head. Thanks for sharing what your issue was and how you solved it because this has been driving me nuts and confirms my suspicions about the thermistor. Im managing to trick it into printing for now but its a bit of a luck game and a lot of patience and babysitting
im pretty sure i have the ender 3 s1 and i was wondering if this same kit and replacement process would work on that too
You just saved me some much time and money
How did you get such great top layers ? Settings? Iron?
It has to be the settings. I don't do anything else really. I barely modified the printer except for changing out the springs for rubber spacers.
I took the heat resistant tape off. Do I have to put it back on?
My printer makes the same sound, but I don't know if it's the same issue. I'm in PA. It's mid November. It's cold. My printer is out on the porch where it is screened-in, no windows. I only been using my printer since June, and never have an issue.. I have been printing since then, even in the cold (even when it's 40 degrees out it was printing fine especially with the dry box I bought for it). Today when I went to preheat the bed and nozzle, it made that sound. Is it because it is now 30 degrees? I don't know how much it's going to warm up weather-wise, but is it because of the cold weather? Or is it this problem. Thanks in advance.
Nevermind. I waited a few hours. Its now 50. And - its working! So - it may be just that it's tool cold if you're printing in frigid weather.
Thanks bro, you saved me from throwing away the printer. goood
Glad I could help
The thermistor screw on mine is off but the wire won't come out. The whole thing is a bit gunky, but it could also be the plastic bit you mentioned. How do I pull the wire out now?
Gracias por el video, saludos desde Rosario, Santa Fe, Argentina.
great video, I experienced problems lately that my printer in the middle of its print gives the "Heating Failed" error. i replaces the Heater cartridge and Thermistor but still gives this problem... at around 150-180 °C the problem occurs. any tips what i can do ?
So there is no dealing with positive and negative just cut and splice?
Works perfectly!
Got this sound on my brand new Ender 3 pro on the First print and then again on the second print first step is checking your connections.
i hear it every time i try to print even after swapping thermistor 3 times.
hope youre gonna help me with this video.
so far ive spliced in those thermistors by just twisting and insulating the wires, although it would be weird, because it had worked for months before, i wouldnt be surprised if that is the problem.
ender 3 v2 btw
Thanks for a great video……off to Amazon to buy new thermistors 😊
For now, since the hotend and Teflon were new, I also cleaned them, I ruled out any reason related to dirt or accumulation of material.
I thought about a bad contact of the thermistor (temperature sensor I call it), since the way of securing the cable and the sensor itself is not that good. I removed the screw, checked the end and then tightened the cable and put it in place. Without putting the screw in, I turned on the printer and the message no longer appeared. I replaced the screw and the message appeared again, this when turning on. I removed the screw and noticed that the sheathing of the cables was damaged. When I put the screw in, it made contact with both (I don't know if negative or positive, maybe it doesn't have polarity, I don't know), whatever the case, I covered part of the indicated cables with heat shrink tubes, obviously I had to cut them longitudinally to be able to put them in. I put the sensor in place and the screw. When powering on, the error message no longer appears. The display appears to show the correct temperature, different from the ambient temperature it appears to show when the sensor is disconnected.
Greetings 😁😁)
Thank you
Thanks BRO
Also the thermistor is put in the machine with thermal paste, like you would use to mount your cooler to your processor when building a PC. This paste dries out and becomes ineffective after about 1 1/2 - 2 years or so. Removing, cleaning and replacing the thermal paste is a maintenance item that will fix the problem. I was having an issue with inconsistent temps and thermal shutdowns (nozzle too cold) after about 1 1/2 years of owning my ender 3 v2 neo and replacing the paste fixed it perfectly.
gracias me ayudaste a encontrar el error :D mi error fue q el soplador de capa soplaba el termistor lo corri un poco para abajo sin q toque el termistor y logre solucionarlo
Thanks man, fixed mine now
Also another cause is the wires solder from the bed plate is not attach will have to re-solder back to bed plate.
Yeah I believe that would cause the error for the plate thermistor. Resoldering isn't too hard. It's wires instead of micro-electronics. You can do it.
I got a slightly different reading error on my cr-10s. When it gets within +/- 5 degrees of my target print temp it makes the same horrific beep and says "E1 failed to heat, please restart." I've currently tried doing PID tuning and I've checked the heat cartridge and it doesn't have any damage or issues I'm aware of. Yet after checking that and running the PID tuning in Pronterface I'm still getting the issue. My next thing to check is the power connections to the power supply and mainboard. If that doesn't work should I just try replacing my heat cartridge and thermistor? Been asking around for any advice, since this printer has lasted me 3-4 years so far, and I've not bought any others as of yet.
On mine the wire that is sandwiched between the screw and heat block is a bit exposed I can see the wire. That’s probably bad isn’t it.
Yeah. I would say so.
Even if it’s not making contact now you would have to think of how many little movements the nozzle and heat block make while printing. If it’s a little worn it could get worse over time.
Allah razı olsun güzel insan 🌹🌹
Thank you my good sir
I hope it was helpful 😊
@@S-Technology printer immediately started working better
How about the one under the build plate??
i got a defective ender 3 pro one of the screw holes wasnt straight with the other and ive got like 3 dif errors counting this one.
But how did you know which way to hook up the wires?
Also, how did you exactly get the thermistor to stay in the hole? Then you're supposed to screw in the screw while the termmistor is in the hole too?
There's no polarity for the thermistor, so it doesn't matter which wires go where. (like for a resistor)
You put the thermistor into it's specific hole then bend the wires close to the thermistor into a round shape. Then use the screw on the hole below to hold those bent wires against the block so the thermistor doesn't back out.
don't screw the thermister into the hole.
0:14 the sound of pain
Ptsd activated
I have also found out if I printed a great deal layers start failing I believe have a bad Thermistor, I started using it again and small stuff I could print with fewer layers but, when I got up in large prints it would fail. melting or not staying together is a tell tell sign it need replaced.
So I was doing an hours long large print and at about 3/4 of the way through it the printer stopped and gave this error message - 'Thermal Runaway: Bed. Printer Halted. Please Reset.' Up to this point it was working just fine. I turned the printer off let it sit for a bit, turned it back on and resumed the print. and a few minutes later the same error message happened. I can still print small things as long as they pretty much stay in the center of the bed. The board in my printer is the Creality v4.2.7 The firmware is Marlin 2.0.6 Ender - 3.
Just had this happen 😅
Hi. in my case, there is not a E1 warm. just the "THERMAL RUN AWAY Printer halted' text and thats all. I tried to move cables for if a false contacts appears but machine stills works normally l. Like you, printer starts fine but in some moment, will song a beeper and printer stops.
Very nice. Thank you
I hope it was helpful.
does this also work with the ender 3 v2 because it start beeping like that in the middle of a print
is it the same process for the ender 5? I'm not that technical and experienced when it comes to this things but i want to try to fix it myself thank youu.
If it is the same hot end as an Ender 3 it should be the same process. It appears the be the same if it is still stock. Just take your time. If I can do it, you can too.
my ender 3 pro had this problem now i know how to fix
Glad it helped. :) Make something cool with your pro and share with everyone.
What size of splice did you use? 1/16th?
Hello, how do I know the polarity of the thermistor?
50 50 shot. Just guess.
Just kidding. They don’t have a polarity. They basically convert heat to resistance that the motherboard monitors.
@@S-Technology hahaha thank you very much
Did you the pid tune or something??? I hear ppl say I need to do it
I haven’t done one yet. I haven’t changed my hot end and I don’t really print parts that need a lot of detail. If I do it I’ll record the process so everyone can see it. Might be a good laugh.
Hello how do I fix that says Heating Error Though would it be the same Way with the Nozzle
for whatever wild reason, thermistor that i had in my ender, was epoxied to the heating element...
now i have to replace heating thing, square thing that holds it and the termistor
Thanks great video
Thank you
what's ur ender 3 settings
Honestly I haven't modified the settings to much. It is pretty close to stock. I also mostly print in various types of PLA with a nozzle temp of 200 and a bed temp of 50.
How do you know what side to connect to each other or it doesn't matter
I don’t believe it has a polarity. It constantly measures the resistance which changes with the temperature. At least that’s what I read before I changed mine. 🤔
I actually found that my ender 3's thermistor screw was undersized leading to unscrewing overtime but by the time I realised I screwed it back so many times that it ate through the thermistor wires and now I'm here since the reduced resistance leads to 10-20C lower temperatures recorded than what it is and I'm justnot comfortable with the idea of just settign that much higher for obvious reasons.
hypothetically how many times can you cut the existing wire, lets say multiple splices, before you would have to replace the whole wire?
Every time you splice you cut behind the current sleeve, so it's always just one connection. I think you'll notice once you don't have anything left to cut.
after replacing thermistor and updating firmware and still getting this E1 runaway
fault randomly what should i do next? this printer has only a few hundred hours on it.
My understanding is that the error can be caused by the Thermistor at the nozzle, under the print bed, or the plugs on the main board of the unit (That the above mentioned sensors plug into). Have you been able to see the readout before the error triggers? Do you see what temp is moving more than normal? That can give a clue.
I was getting thermal runaway and sure enough one of the wires was had broke off inside the hot end. So mines down until i get a replacement.
Weird, my thermistor only seems off during the first layer. Perhaps mine is a height calibration problem instead..
Thx my printer is almost year old and just started. Ugh will need to replace my thermistor also as tonight the 2nd time mine buzzzzzesss hehe. So i knew hey FLATLINER!! Charge!! Clear ! Ok doc we have a pulse 😂
🤣🤣
@@S-Technology what i suspect the issue was , maybe bit loose with the screw. As thermistor must also physically make contact to be accurate with the temp. I pulled it out no dirt whatsoever and put it in again fastened screw. And tested and my temp was more stable like normal. Temp didnt flucuate as much. So tonight or tomorrow will just re level bed and print again
The bed of my printer is also over heating. Will it fix the problem?
Not by replacing the thermistor near the print nozzle. That only controls how hot the nozzle gets for the filament.
There is a separate thermistor under the bed that helps control the heating of the bed. It is removed a different way but can be replaced with the same thermistor as in the nozzle. So replacing that one also "could" help with overheating. But there is also the bed's heating elements, or the wrong voltage coming from the main board, that could also cause the bed to overheat.
@S-Technology I did some observations, and I noticed that when I try to heat the bed, the nozzle heats up instead. Could the voltage be the problem?
I have a cr10 v3 and after changing the thermistor my printer now shows very high temperature even when its not printing
i still have the sam e problem, maybe could be that i bod general thermistors
It’s possible. Does the screen show the same error code?
Can you share your profile settings ? im so frustrated i cant get perfect prints on settings
There are a lot of variables. My settings may not work perfectly for you. What printer are you using? An Ender? What material do you want to print? Honestly just stick with the basics. Work on getting it level. Stick with some simple material like PLA. Don’t change too many things at once otherwise you wont know what is improving your print or hurting it.
You also have to learn about your particular machine. Mine has a low spot on the bed I had to figure how to compensate for. It just takes time.
It’s progress, not perfection.
You can do it.
@@S-Technology im currently using ender 3 and print a pla+ and pla wood on it ... i watch a lot of video here in youtube and tried different settings on it but nothing works :(
For PLA I am usually starting with a nozzle of 200 and a bed temp of 50. That usually works well for me for adhesion. I have had some filament brands that I’ve had to increase the temps up like 10 degrees. Print something small to test a new filament when you get it to see.
how do you factory reset my heat bed went out i repkacedbut cant reset?? can u help me?
what can I do if my thermistors come with no isolation? like, thermistors just with naked wire 3 cm long? i cannot find thermistor like in this video, and i don't want to order delivery from other continent just to repair 140$ printer
yo no e cambiado nada le puse un poco de pasta termica y va de lujo
so it doesnt matter what wire to wire when connecting
I've only had my ender for 5 days when this issue occured, does this mean I have to replace my thermistors anyways? or could it be another issue?
From what I researched there are basically 3 things that could cause the error.
1) the thermistor by the nozzle like in the video.
2) the thermistor under the bed.
3) the plugs for either on the motherboard.
The thermistors are small and fragile, and the QC of Enders isn’t the best. So it’s possible it could have been damaged in freight.
E1 is not the bed and E0 the nozzle thermistor? I just replaced it and the problem continues, must be the bed thermistor.
Also it makes like a weird a quick like ick sound sometimes
Will the sound just keep going all day long if you're not home? or does it stop after like 1 min?
As far as I can tell it keeps going. It’s supposed to be a warning that the printer lost control of the heating components. (On nozzle and/or bed).
You don’t want it happening while away. Possible fire risk.
ok let's see if you can help me solve my problem.. I have an alfawise u10 but I notice that the software is the same as the ender. I had the same error on the display of the machine and I replaced the whole hot end block...thermistor and heating cartridge but it doesn't work.. Now it gives me the message "heating failed..printer halted..please reset"
What can I do? How do you reset the machine? Heeeeeelp!! Thanks in advance!!!
Hmm... Have you checked the wiring on everything near the hot end? Thermistor and heating cartridge placed correctly?
It sounds like either something is loose or not getting the correct voltage. I would also check the connectors on your motherboard to make sure nothing is bent or even worse melting. If everything seems okay you may need to check the voltage being pulled by your hot end components. Something is off that is triggering a fail safe to stop the printer. When it says to "reset" that is simply turning it off and then back on after several seconds. Its a "Hard Reset" to clear out all the sensor data.
@@S-Technology Thanks for the answer! I fixed my problem by also asking for help from a printer manufacturer. And in fact, as you said, it was a voltage problem, or rather, something had burned in the board inside the connector that connects the machine to the power supply. Changed that everything is back to normal! Thanks again for the suggestions!
Glad you got it working again! 👍
That printer has a large print bed. What are you planning on making?
@@S-Technology yes the printer is pretty big. at the moment I collaborate with a foundry. I make enlargements of sculptures which are then retouched in wax or other materials. So it's not just for hobby but this printer is starting to get old and giving problems... I was considering buying another one! any advice on a 300 x 300 x 350?
my ender 3 Neo has been doing this and its only 2 weeks old (got it on x-mas) please help
I'm not sure about the Neo but it should be a similar process. A easy no cost fix is to try what 3D FPV Club mentioned (in the pinned comment). See if there is any powder that comes off the thermistor and then place it back in. It seems to be a issue the printers have after the first few prints.
Nostalgie 😂
Clean the termistor instead, if it works frlm the start, it does later as well but get readkng issues by dirt.
Replaced the hot end and wires and still gettin this ?
Are you able to verify if the hot end thermistor is causing it? There is also one on the bed controlling heat that can also set off the error.
Simple buy your exchange/repair Hotends. They come for about 15 Euro from Chine with a heating cartridge and the thermistor.
Don´t understand that you have no thermistor over. The problem is mostly that the Ohm Resistant changes and then you have no
usable result. No problem, i changed it only once and it works fine.
Many times the people have more problems because they build in connectors between the cables for faster change.
The problem is that some of these connectors don´t like heat and bend, or after 10 reconnects you don´t get contact.
Solder it directly together and then it should work fine.
That's also a good option especially if you are planning on upgrading your hot end.
Mine says "outage recovery" a few seconds into a print although it never even turns off. could this be the same issue?
I'm not sure. That sounds like it would be something to di with the voltage. Like a bad power delivery cable or plug on the mother board that isn't consistent and causes an outage.
@@S-Technology Thanks. I recently replaced the motherboard so hopefully I just need to loosen some tention.
The issue is due to the stripping of the thermometer wires, due to the wire being screwed to a screw, causing a short circuit between the electrodes
That sound. I changed the entire hot end assembly (I think that's what it's called) in my Ender 3 and it still fills me with dread.
Days after fixing it I was still hesitant the printer would start beeping. It really is the sound of nightmares. Haha.
I bought the same pack and the "bulb" part is too wide for the hole, what do I do?
Just making sure, It's for a ender 3 and you are placing it back in the lower hole, right? The top one is threaded for the screw.
is it larger than the one that was removed from your printer?
@@S-Technology yeah they were, I checked all 5 I received and I managed to have only one that'd fit, going to do a test print later tonight
I hope it works for you. I checked mine and they all seem similar size.