You can always learn something new and steal it for yourself I say. I've built a hand full of 3.3 and 2.5 TRX engines but he has a good way of detailing his actions.
Used to do this all the time when did all the nitro repairs at my lhs, usually somebody's old tmaxx that had been sitting for 5 years or more and they wanted to get it going again. good work my man.
For whatever reason i never get tired of seeing nitro engines getting rebuilt. Most times i end up learning something new too, like the new vs old 3.3 cylinder heads, had no clue they changed design And to the people that complain about your swearing, i say if you stop cussing out the idiots ill have to unsubscribe ;) Its what makes these videos entertaining !
Haha right on! Glad you enjoy it! A little cras humor is always fun. Well for most that are not completely STUNNED but you get the idea 🤣 thanks for watchin 🤘🏻🍻💯😎
I have found them to be hit or miss I have had some last one court or a few gallons i several engines. They lasted 20 minutes in my dynamite 19 and took the engine out unfortunately.
Woke up this morning and watched this wile I had coffee! Is Super clean like an oven cleaner? We don’t get it hear? Thanks for the video man like I said I’ll give the Jato engine a cleans up. Thank you also for the channel shout out that was really good of you.
Hey man thanks for sticking around and super clean is an engine/parts degreesing agent. It can be very aggressive towards aluminum or anodized parts. If you are going to try engine degracers try it on some junk aluminum first before you use it on one of your good engines just to make sure it's not going to react or do any damage.
33:49 Bottom it out --> 1/4 turn --> done. Anything more'll just twist the heads off these tiny little screws. JohnnyQ90 has actually used a torque wrench on engines like this more than once and he's seldom putting more than 2-3 newton-meters on an M3 bolt.
4:03 I like sticking nylon zip ties in the exhaust ports. Still softer than the metal around it so it won't hurt anything, but 9 times out of 10 it pops the sleeve right out.
It's an old school trick and if the sleeve is really stuck you can fold it over so it doesn't get cut as easy and does heat up around the top of the cylinder some more 😉
@@thebug4046 I've had a couple of particularly crusty aircraft engines shear the zip ties off on me, but by and large it works a treat. I usually use it in conjuction with heat! I have used a screwdriver a couple times, too, but in both instances the piston/sleeve I was removing was already so wrecked it would never have run right anyway. One was on a 46AX that had been flown until the bad main bearing started sending shrapnel out, and the other was a Magnum 40 bushing engine that had been on an airboat and ingested an insane amount of mud. Like, literally, I opened the backplate and could have planted a flower in the crankcase. Well, that, and the liner was peeling. I did get that Magnum to run before I tore it fully down, by the way, but not very well. It would start if I did some naughty things to it and run for about 15-20 seconds at half-to-3/4 throttle. No chance of idling, full throttle heated it up so fast it pretty much instantly flamed. Poor thing's just NFG. I swapped it for a 40FP that is known good. I'm guessing that airboat got tumbled in a previous owner's care and they just said 'to hell with this thing', chucked it in the shed still full of pond water.
Does sticking your finger with the wire brush feel as good as sticking it underneath your finger nails!😂😂 Nice to see I'm not the only one who cleans my engines this way. Only I don't have superclean so I use spray nine, although it will discolour aluminum if left long enough as well!❤
Thanks for watchin! I have seen spray 9 a bunch I have yet to try it though next time I go into my auto parts store I'm gonna buy a bottle and give it a whirl for sure! 🍻💯
@@thebug4046 It's probably a new revision of an old standard. HPI's been selling the G3.0 for YEARS, but I only remember seeing the HO variant when I started looking into buying this car. I must say I'm thoroughly impressed with the current production G3.0's. The factory needles give shockingly good performance. thing idles, transitions nicely, comes on the pipe without bogging or hesitating, shrieks like a banshee when I give it hell. Literally haven't had to touch the carb since I got the car from AMain Hobbies! Usually either the screws are way off in the rhubarb to the point it won't run, or it will run but is so damn rich it barely stays alive. Not this engine. Checked against the manual, needles were right where they were supposed to be, and they perform great at that setting. Go figure. First for me and I've been playing with these things for 20 years haha I'm sure if I twiddled the needles a bit I could find a couple thousand more RPM, but honestly, performance is just fine by my standard right as it is. Car's good for about 30-35mph this way; one guy managed to get his WR8 Nitro to about 41MPH by leaning the LSN until it juuuust started warbling a bit in the midrange but I favor longevity over bragging rights so I won't be doing that.
@@TestECull Yeah the high output model has different porting in the sleeve and I think different port timing from what people have said to me over the years and the last time I saw one was around $300 so I wasn't willing to pay that much it But from whatever one has said that they perform much better than the factory ones do
@@thebug4046 It's got some good power for sure. I can get the back end of that subaru wiggling around on dry tarmac with a good helping of onions! I'd say it sits somewhere between a Dynamite 19T 5-port and an OS 18CV-RX in power; the 18CV-RX is an absolute monster that will shred drivelines(ask me how I know...) and the 19T 5-port is fairly mild mannered until it's screaming along at mach jesus. This one's a happy medium that doesn't explode clutch bell gears but has some good grunt. It's perfect for an RTR car in the 4-8 pound range, which is incidentally exactly where HPI puts them. Easy to start, easy to work with, reliable, good power but not so much the driveline fails. Perfection.
@@thebug4046 Hah. Gave my WR8 some absolute hell after work yesterday. It goes everywhere sideways. Hell of an engine, hell of a car, glad to have it in my stash~. If only the USD/CAD conversion didn't make it 700 bucks up there.....
13:04 I wonder if that stuff could be used to artificially patina an engine. Discolor it without weakening it. Be pretty sweet for a nitro rat rod to have an engine lookin' all patina'd out, yanno?
You can do that if you warm up the engine block in hot water then spray it on there let it sit fot 5 minutes but you don't want to let it sit there for hours for example because it eat the aluminum
@@thebug4046 Mmm, innnteresting. Ye I'm thinking of converting one of RC Everyday's rat rod kits to nitro with a little OS 12CV-RX or similar and, being a rat rod, it'd look best with a 'tina'd out engine. Maybe I'll experiment a bit; I have a few cases around here that are NFG that I won't miss if they get too eaten up.
It's basically a dynamite big red with and 8 port sleeve haha you can order the SH 28P8 piston and sleeve rod crank all that is the same all big red parts fit to. It's just a fancy SH 28 😉
@thebug4046 funny you say that because I was looking at the sh sleeve and it seemed to be the same. Im going to order some parts and figure it out. Hopefully, it's not the wrong way. Haha
@thebug4046 do you happen to have the part numbers for the acer bearings? I see they have a few different ones on ebay. I just want to make sure I get the correct ones!
@@r_mac67fstbck41 I don't have the part numbers at the moment but if you message the seller and tell them what you have they are really cool and easy to work with they will tell you exactly what you need part numbers and everything
6:04 Two things. 1: All about lube, though that shield won't really get in the way. It's just the seals. I always remove both seals from the inner and one seal from the outer main, then orient them where the exposed balls face the crankcase. Get 'em good and lubed in operation. 2: I like my butane microtorch for this because it's too weak to melt a case accidentally, but strong enough to make the bearings pop right out. I probably could melt a hole in a case with the microtorch but it'd have to be deliberate.
I have talked to several engine modification people about the bearing situation and they all say so they want the ball bearings facing out for whatever reason. And yeah That's why I usually mention a people to buy a heat gun for there's because a lot of people don't understand how to use a torch properly and then melting things haha
@@thebug4046 Mm. The other thing I like about the microtorch is the precision of it. I can heat up a stubborn wrist pin without really heating up the piston around it if I want to. Or free up the tappets of a 4-stroke without burning the hand holding the engine by the mounting lugs. Wonderful little tool for these tiny little engines! That torch, 3'n'1 oil, and patience has gotten more than a couple dozen totally siezed glow aircraft engines freed off.
@@TestECull Yeah that is true I just have yet to buy myself one I don't heat up the piston with a torch I usually just throw it in a cupful of hot alcohol that usually works good to
These disassembly/rebuild/cleaning vids never get old.
Another tomorrow! 🍻💯
@@thebug4046 I'll be waiting for it.
You can always learn something new and steal it for yourself I say. I've built a hand full of 3.3 and 2.5 TRX engines but he has a good way of detailing his actions.
@@JG0en187 thanks for watchin 🍻💯
Used to do this all the time when did all the nitro repairs at my lhs, usually somebody's old tmaxx that had been sitting for 5 years or more and they wanted to get it going again. good work my man.
Thanks man! And I do it so often I don't even film it anymore haha easy cheap clean up always works! 😎
Yeah man that's what makes your videos fun to watch is the cussing and stuff but there also informative for people!
Haha yeah there's always a few dummies in the comments. Thanks for watchin!
For whatever reason i never get tired of seeing nitro engines getting rebuilt. Most times i end up learning something new too, like the new vs old 3.3 cylinder heads, had no clue they changed design
And to the people that complain about your swearing, i say if you stop cussing out the idiots ill have to unsubscribe ;) Its what makes these videos entertaining !
Haha right on! Glad you enjoy it! A little cras humor is always fun. Well for most that are not completely STUNNED but you get the idea 🤣 thanks for watchin 🤘🏻🍻💯😎
oh nice you’re getting a collection of 3.3 engines now you might soon over pass me
Haha how many you got?
@@thebug4046 right now 3 sitting around more in cars trucks
@@tonydetwiler2624 nice all i have is 5
great clean up and bearing replacement
hell yea man another great video
Thanks brotha 🍻💯🤘🏻
Ive got to get around to doing this. Thanks for the video.
Welcome!
My fast eddy bearings are holding up fine so far. We’ll see how many gallons they are able to suck up. 👊😎
I got what was it also. Ohhhh Avid Bearings.
I have found them to be hit or miss I have had some last one court or a few gallons i several engines. They lasted 20 minutes in my dynamite 19 and took the engine out unfortunately.
Thanks for sharing
You took the washer off at the sink 👍
Yeah I did I actually found the washer after I turned off my camera and it was on the floor hahaha
I love the 3.3,,,,lucky gift,,BTW. I just installed an OS carb on mine,,,,WORLDS of difference……great video. Thanks for all you do….🇺🇸👍🚘
Hell yeah! Thanks for watchin! And the os 11k is incredible on the Traxxas engines! Another video of this type tomorrow! 🤘🏻🍻💯
Good info brotha
Thanks man!$
Dry as a desert creek bed 🤣🤣🤣 these videos are great!
Thanks for watchin! 💯 glad you enjoyed it 🤣
Woke up this morning and watched this wile I had coffee! Is Super clean like an oven cleaner? We don’t get it hear? Thanks for the video man like I said I’ll give the Jato engine a cleans up.
Thank you also for the channel shout out that was really good of you.
Hey man thanks for sticking around and super clean is an engine/parts degreesing agent. It can be very aggressive towards aluminum or anodized parts. If you are going to try engine degracers try it on some junk aluminum first before you use it on one of your good engines just to make sure it's not going to react or do any damage.
33:49 Bottom it out --> 1/4 turn --> done. Anything more'll just twist the heads off these tiny little screws.
JohnnyQ90 has actually used a torque wrench on engines like this more than once and he's seldom putting more than 2-3 newton-meters on an M3 bolt.
Yeah I've seen people go to crazy on overtight
Next on "Kitchen Nightmares" Gordon Ramsay sharts his britches over "fresh frozen" crank bearings 😅
🤣🤣
4:03 I like sticking nylon zip ties in the exhaust ports. Still softer than the metal around it so it won't hurt anything, but 9 times out of 10 it pops the sleeve right out.
It's an old school trick and if the sleeve is really stuck you can fold it over so it doesn't get cut as easy and does heat up around the top of the cylinder some more 😉
@@thebug4046 I've had a couple of particularly crusty aircraft engines shear the zip ties off on me, but by and large it works a treat. I usually use it in conjuction with heat!
I have used a screwdriver a couple times, too, but in both instances the piston/sleeve I was removing was already so wrecked it would never have run right anyway. One was on a 46AX that had been flown until the bad main bearing started sending shrapnel out, and the other was a Magnum 40 bushing engine that had been on an airboat and ingested an insane amount of mud. Like, literally, I opened the backplate and could have planted a flower in the crankcase. Well, that, and the liner was peeling.
I did get that Magnum to run before I tore it fully down, by the way, but not very well. It would start if I did some naughty things to it and run for about 15-20 seconds at half-to-3/4 throttle. No chance of idling, full throttle heated it up so fast it pretty much instantly flamed. Poor thing's just NFG. I swapped it for a 40FP that is known good.
I'm guessing that airboat got tumbled in a previous owner's care and they just said 'to hell with this thing', chucked it in the shed still full of pond water.
Does sticking your finger with the wire brush feel as good as sticking it underneath your finger nails!😂😂
Nice to see I'm not the only one who cleans my engines this way. Only I don't have superclean so I use spray nine, although it will discolour aluminum if left long enough as well!❤
Thanks for watchin! I have seen spray 9 a bunch I have yet to try it though next time I go into my auto parts store I'm gonna buy a bottle and give it a whirl for sure! 🍻💯
👍
Holy shit the bug cussed 😱
🤣
Does no one read the available instructions online? Tells you how to tighten down the cooling head. Idk how people make it any more.
Hahaha no kidding!
Have you tried using simple green? Or is it not strong enough?
It works pretty good to! But take longer. That's why I do it how you see in the videos fast and effective 🍻💯🤘🏻
What if the front bearing inner race has dropped out iv only got the ouuter race left in can't get anything behind it
Gotta heat it up and bang it down on a chunk of wood until it moves or if you absolutely can't get it to come out a new block is cheap
Yeah that stuff eats the hide off my fingers if I don't wear gloves!
It's nasty stuff but it works so good!
You gotten your hands on an HPI G3.0 HO yet? I just picked up a brand new one in a brand new WR8 Nitro and it's a doll. runs like a swiss watch.
An HO? Not yet haha haven't seen any pop up for sale anywhere
@@thebug4046 It's probably a new revision of an old standard. HPI's been selling the G3.0 for YEARS, but I only remember seeing the HO variant when I started looking into buying this car.
I must say I'm thoroughly impressed with the current production G3.0's. The factory needles give shockingly good performance. thing idles, transitions nicely, comes on the pipe without bogging or hesitating, shrieks like a banshee when I give it hell. Literally haven't had to touch the carb since I got the car from AMain Hobbies! Usually either the screws are way off in the rhubarb to the point it won't run, or it will run but is so damn rich it barely stays alive. Not this engine. Checked against the manual, needles were right where they were supposed to be, and they perform great at that setting. Go figure. First for me and I've been playing with these things for 20 years haha
I'm sure if I twiddled the needles a bit I could find a couple thousand more RPM, but honestly, performance is just fine by my standard right as it is. Car's good for about 30-35mph this way; one guy managed to get his WR8 Nitro to about 41MPH by leaning the LSN until it juuuust started warbling a bit in the midrange but I favor longevity over bragging rights so I won't be doing that.
@@TestECull Yeah the high output model has different porting in the sleeve and I think different port timing from what people have said to me over the years and the last time I saw one was around $300 so I wasn't willing to pay that much it But from whatever one has said that they perform much better than the factory ones do
@@thebug4046 It's got some good power for sure. I can get the back end of that subaru wiggling around on dry tarmac with a good helping of onions! I'd say it sits somewhere between a Dynamite 19T 5-port and an OS 18CV-RX in power; the 18CV-RX is an absolute monster that will shred drivelines(ask me how I know...) and the 19T 5-port is fairly mild mannered until it's screaming along at mach jesus. This one's a happy medium that doesn't explode clutch bell gears but has some good grunt.
It's perfect for an RTR car in the 4-8 pound range, which is incidentally exactly where HPI puts them. Easy to start, easy to work with, reliable, good power but not so much the driveline fails. Perfection.
@@thebug4046 Hah. Gave my WR8 some absolute hell after work yesterday. It goes everywhere sideways. Hell of an engine, hell of a car, glad to have it in my stash~. If only the USD/CAD conversion didn't make it 700 bucks up there.....
13:04 I wonder if that stuff could be used to artificially patina an engine. Discolor it without weakening it. Be pretty sweet for a nitro rat rod to have an engine lookin' all patina'd out, yanno?
You can do that if you warm up the engine block in hot water then spray it on there let it sit fot 5 minutes but you don't want to let it sit there for hours for example because it eat the aluminum
@@thebug4046 Mmm, innnteresting. Ye I'm thinking of converting one of RC Everyday's rat rod kits to nitro with a little OS 12CV-RX or similar and, being a rat rod, it'd look best with a 'tina'd out engine. Maybe I'll experiment a bit; I have a few cases around here that are NFG that I won't miss if they get too eaten up.
So im still very new to nitro. Are you familiar with the losi 454? If so do you know what piston and sleeve will work with it?
It's basically a dynamite big red with and 8 port sleeve haha you can order the SH 28P8 piston and sleeve rod crank all that is the same all big red parts fit to. It's just a fancy SH 28 😉
@thebug4046 funny you say that because I was looking at the sh sleeve and it seemed to be the same. Im going to order some parts and figure it out. Hopefully, it's not the wrong way. Haha
@@joshherrman3201 dynamite big red or SH 28P8 parts should be available on amane hobby they have lots of SH parts
@thebug4046 ok so stupid question but are all the sh .28 going to be 8 port? I don't see SH 28P8 when I look it up.
@@joshherrman3201 not all. Some are 3 port Some 6 etc... but all interchangeable
Are the fast Eddy bearings more or less trash then stock traxxas bearings.
Both suck get a set of Acer bearings for 15$ they are so much better
@thebug4046 do you happen to have the part numbers for the acer bearings? I see they have a few different ones on ebay. I just want to make sure I get the correct ones!
@@r_mac67fstbck41 I don't have the part numbers at the moment but if you message the seller and tell them what you have they are really cool and easy to work with they will tell you exactly what you need part numbers and everything
@@thebug4046 will do, thanks!
@@r_mac67fstbck41 no worries! 🍻🤘🏻
Can I use upper cylinder lubricant to oil my 3.3 during my rebuild?
Not sure what that is exactly. Can you explain it?
@@thebug4046 you have it in this video the bottle by your sink
@@shakinbass_5318 it is a lubricant but it's mostly cleaners and solvents. Use a good quality 2 stroke oil
Do u think 2 stroke Lucas oil is fine
@@shakinbass_5318 absolutely!
send me one of them 3.3s ya damn hoarder ha ha ha ha ha j/k bud
🤣🤣
6:04 Two things.
1: All about lube, though that shield won't really get in the way. It's just the seals. I always remove both seals from the inner and one seal from the outer main, then orient them where the exposed balls face the crankcase. Get 'em good and lubed in operation.
2: I like my butane microtorch for this because it's too weak to melt a case accidentally, but strong enough to make the bearings pop right out. I probably could melt a hole in a case with the microtorch but it'd have to be deliberate.
I have talked to several engine modification people about the bearing situation and they all say so they want the ball bearings facing out for whatever reason. And yeah That's why I usually mention a people to buy a heat gun for there's because a lot of people don't understand how to use a torch properly and then melting things haha
@@thebug4046 Mm. The other thing I like about the microtorch is the precision of it. I can heat up a stubborn wrist pin without really heating up the piston around it if I want to. Or free up the tappets of a 4-stroke without burning the hand holding the engine by the mounting lugs. Wonderful little tool for these tiny little engines!
That torch, 3'n'1 oil, and patience has gotten more than a couple dozen totally siezed glow aircraft engines freed off.
@@TestECull Yeah that is true I just have yet to buy myself one I don't heat up the piston with a torch I usually just throw it in a cupful of hot alcohol that usually works good to