For small paint touch-ups like that, one method that worked well for me is to apply the paint with a brush, then roll a DRY roller over it. It will pick up the excess paint (if any) and imprint the roller texture in the paint 🙂
What he was doing is called "stippling". You can do this with a paint brush. You only get the front 1/4" or so if the bristles wet, and then you use the point of the brush, pushing it repeatedly against the wall as he was doing the roller end. For something this small it would be best to use a 1/2" fairly stiff bristle brush, or alternately just one end of a 4" brush. Dry rolling, as you discovered, is a really good way to help clean the end result up.
So this may sound odd but I have fluffed up and used a Q Tip in the past. I roll the paint on with it and have been happy with results! Obviously this works on small spots. Also for sanding, I've just used a paper towel or even fingers in the past. Just my input:)
Great video as always Ben. My technique is a little different. I fill and use a damp sponge to remove the dry leftover mud adjacent to the hole. I then dab the paint and use the same damp sponge to “feather” the paint around the edges. It’s 90%+ perfection and never end to paint the whole wall.
Yeah, on a textured wall, the wet sponge will make it literally impossible to find the hole. I left my last rental before I bought my place, and the landlord was floored how perfect we left the place
Thanks bro, I've been getting tips from you for about 2 years now. I've started my own Plastering business in New Zealand since then and we're growing fast. I wish i could return the favor by donating through your live streams etc. All in all, kinda just wanted to thank you my guy, you're the man.
Bro if yr in business in NZ yr here to make $$$ and time is $$$ - Im a builder and when do touch ups like this I putty / filler, overfill and whack an electric sander on it then quick roll with a matched paint - Result excellent. That's way too much work for such a simple quick fix.
What you have done with the paint is called stippling. Can be done with either a brush or roller. Also paints with sheen will flatten over time. Thinning the touch up paint substantially with water can help match the sheen
To match the old wall stipple I add some powder bag mud to my first coat of primer to thicken The more stipple you need the more bag mud you add. Works like a charm. I’ve been repairing wet plaster walls in historic homes using this technique for 25 years
Hi. A painter suggest a tip for me when filling in holes. He said instead of sanding it to use a small damp cloth and wipe over it. Doing so wipes all the extra filler off the sides and leaves the holes filled in perfectly. No sanding required.
The pink stuff is great for fixing dents. I use those cheap disposable foam brushes for dabbing paint on patches. It leaves a good texture. If the patch is a large one and the texture does not match the original wall I wait for the paint to be nearly dry then I deliberately dab on it with the foam brush or a regular brush to mess up the smoothness of the fresh paint. If it still looks too smooth after I put more paint and deliberately mess it up too until I’m happy with the texture. Doesn’t always work but it’s usually less noticeable.
For the paint I sometimes use a super soft ladies large makeup brush with just the very tips of the fine bristles dabbed with the original paint (original mix if possible!). I gently dab this on the wall (never brushing!) and touching the wall very delicately. Do this multiple times but work away from the repaired spot to fan out using less dabs and paint as you move away from the repair. If the original paint on the wall is not too old this is generally quite effective. If the spot in question is not in the normal line of sight and not subject to bright light flooding it, the result should please the homeowner and avoid you/them having to paint the whole wall.
Ben, I like that you decided to try using a "mini" roller to touch-up a few areas on your wall in this video. I recently used a sponge dipped in a litttle paint and it did a good job of restoring the "stipple" texture of the wall too!
As a painting contractor i do touchups quite often. The hardest part is getting a really good match, it needs to be the exact color AND sheen. I have a tinting kit that I carry in my van, and if its a tough sheeen Ill buy two paints, one too shiny and and another too flat and mix until i get it just right. Once you get the paint PERFECT you can touch it up however you want, although spraying works really well to fan out the hard edges. Dry rolling can work as well.
6:43 I love the mini brush but it's so important to mix your paint really well. Even for spot repairs so that hopefully the sheen is a bit closer. The dulling agent usually settles to the bottom. Stir it baby!
I was going to attempt a small repair behind a door with a paint brush but I will definitely be using a roller now instead, there was another more visible dent that I was going to leave but I will see how well I can fill the first hole. Thank you for the great informative vid!
I really appreciate your attention to detail. In reading comments, I saw and agree there are several ways to get good results, but regardless of method there is no substitute for taking your time. And you're always willing to try other methods.
A trick I’ve used with success after repairing and sanding filled spots smooth is to stipple the smooth surface with either primer or the color coat using just the end of the brush bristles to avoid the spot from looking too smooth. This also helps before rolling the wall with all new paint. I also use a perpendicular scraper to catch and remove any and all raised bits from the previous painting before applying the new coat.
For filling tiny holes I do the surgical approach, I will put blue tape across the hole, Cut out the exact shape of the hole (cut the hole first to make it easier), Press mud into the hole and use the knife to pull across the tape. Then remove the tape and you are left with a perfect slightly proud fill, without any buildup, And the knife never touches the wall. When the mud dries and shrinks just a hair gently scrape with a razor blade to get it down to level, As for painting I usually gently dab it with a Q-tip evenly distributing across and slightly over the repair
Glad he called out the fact you can't get 100% unless you do the full routine. That is true particularly if a) the paint has been around a while (and oxidized, changing the colour over time) and/or the wall is exposed to sun much of the time (which fades colours). Depends on your need to match....
I like to use masking tape to go around the small damage. It allows me to apply the mud without touching the wall with the small trowel. Then remove the tape and add more to do the sanding. I use a hobbie brush to do the prime and paint.
Awesome tips! I've had good success with those little foam brushes and just dab with it. I'll mix my paint really well and then use the foam brush to push the excess paint on my mixing spatula back into the can and whatever is left on the foam brush i take even more off and then just dab the touch up area. I barely use any paint and it has come out great every time! those brushes are super cheap but I'm even cheaper and I just wash the brush with just warm water and let it dry and put it in a ziplock and reuse the same one.
Thanks for the video. I was always under the assumption you would have to sand the surrounding paint as well before repainting over but by the look of it the paint will stick to the prior coat anyway.
Thanks for the tips now hopefully this works so i dont have to paint whole wall.Bought house and people had frames and curtains everywhere.When they moved out they left holes everywhere but paint was still good condition other than holes.Thanks saved me money and time
Some (big box?) hardware stores sell single-use spray cans. That is, it is a jar with an attached aerosol sprayer. Pour your paint in the jar, then spray. If paint tint matching is a challenge, spraying with your "close match" new paint but feathering it out via spraying may be an option.
I have had reason to do a reasonable amount of this sort of patch and paint over the last two years or so. My method patch and sand with 220 grit, but take the sanded area beyond the patch. I think, at least to some degree, the material used can make a difference. In my case I'm using Benjamin Moore paint and for painting I use a foam brush just to get the paint onto the wall. When I started this process I used the standard mini foam roller, but I found was the texture was not the same as a regular standard wall roller. Makes sense right!? What I bought (HD) and left on my bench for quite some time is a 3" fibre roller kit from an outfit called Pintar, the model?, but called "Quick fix & small area kit." I tend to roll out the paint 3-4" in roughly a circle. I have found once I have done this, thou sometimes two coats, I literally can not see the patch. The texture is near identical to original. The one draw back to this little roller is, the handle and axle is plastic. To release the end hub one has to pinch the end of the axle slightly. With paint on the roller and very tight space it can be done, but it can be awfully annoying at times. On the packaging it also mentions good for trim work, which is actually why I purchased it in the first place, and it is. Far superior, and quicker, finish especially for those larger flat sections than any brush. This roller does a good job conforming to some of the not so deep moulded areas. Am I cheerleading this product, yes. I am not associated with the company in any way. This, in my opinion at least, is a product that does a really good job, thou of course it will depend on the skill of the user too.
We record all paint type& colour codes / application methods (spray/brush&roll nap) on record. This is part of our service and lowers our cost on future calls from client. Thanks for your great video tutorials.
“Paint Conspiracy”😮. 🤣😂 I love how relaxed and light hearted all your videos are. This was a great one as I’m sure everyone has touch ups from time to time. Thanks for a great channel with great content. Very appreciated.
Actually a good video for tiny patches. One thing to mention (I skipped through so not sure if this was mentioned) this will really only work if you use the EXACT same paint left over from actually painting the wall in the first place. If you have to get a new tub of paint, even if it’s the same brand and colour if it’s a different tub of paint it will always be a slightly different shade. Actually as I’m typing this … he mentioned this exact point … side note when he says ‘flashing’ or ‘flash’ that’s a decorators term for the Sheen difference that you will get on a big patch job. Also if you are patching over fresh filler it’s best to double coat it so the filler doesn’t flash. Really good video 🤘🏼🙋🏻♂️
earned the hard way. I painted my kitchen last winter. Touched up a few spots after removing an outlet cover (which tore up the first applied paint in the winter) and the new touchup paint went on differently. Shadowy. Just realized painting in different temperatures will yield different results
I use the same dabbing method, but with one of those little sausage foam rollers that have a rounded end. You can easily control the surface area covered.
Unfortunately with the right (or wrong) angle and natural light almost any touch up is noticeable no matter what you do if the sheen is Satin or Semi. With eggshell or flat paint you have a decent chance in the right light. People are so picky these days we usually just reroll the wall (or try to feather and hide the edge above a window or door). The other thing I’ve noticed over the years is that the more uniform the patch the easier it is to spot; whereas, non-uniform patches tend not to catch the eye. Basically people just need to fill up the room with furniture and pictures and quit focusing on tiny imperfections. Drives us nuts!
2 Foam brushes 1. Wax on. dab brush on the area until the patch is colored 2. Wax off, use foam brush 2 (DRY) to take ALL the paint off you just put on. This will take all the paint off the wall, (the painted surface) but not your patch (dry gypsum) which just absorbed the paint You won’t get sheen build up since it’s the same number of coats in every surface. That one took a long time for me to figure out
Can you do a video on how to find a good contractor, where to look, what to ask, what research should be done (like price research)? I’d say finding a good company to do the work is the biggest challenge as a new homeowner
Check out a channel called The Honest Carpenter - another contractor turned DIY guru. He put out a great video a few months back about this very topic. I'd still enjoy Ben's take on it tho 🙂
It might be good to say that it very much depends on the product that you used on the wall. There are paints that you can touch up with that get zero flashing almost no matter how you do it. Also once you get into eggshell, satin, or semi even the small patches that you did would show very easily with the higher sheens. The newer versions of the computer matching machines are doing better, but most stores don't have them. They can get 98%. So depending on which pigments go into your paint and how much pigment is used you can color match and touch up with it.
@@BlossomPainting first off I love how your name is painting. Second im not sure how that information is relevent for touch up. Its very obvious which method was used when you are touching up. Thirdly you should always give the client a record of paint color and product. Lastly are you a bot?
@@jaredscott2617 1st, thanks. 2nd, it’s not always obvious to the next guy (less room for error WHEN touching up). 3rd, Internal records also show up on clients invoice. And NO , we are not a bot.
@@BlossomPainting "we are not a bot" sounds sus to me. How many base belong to you? All? You need to train the next guy better if he cant tell between brush, roll, or spray.
8:39 Ben, these videos are so well done, thank you. Just trying to find one of your videos that will demonstrate how to fix a “big dent” - the wall has a large indent /cracked from a person falling against it as they fell down the steps!
2 hours after fixing these little dents the kids made a bigger hole in the wall. You can never fix all of these little imperfections in life so don't worry about it.
I got Lowes to color match my paint. It was slightly darker. I ended up repainting the whole wall. It is 100 percent. The color was close enough to be only needed on the one wall.
I find using a foam brush to be good in a situation like this. Foam brushes have a point at the end, so you can control the paint to very small tight areas, but it also gives a finish similar to a roller.
Brilliant tips I’m stealing the roller dabbing technique! Love your attention to detail Also loving lots of the comments with more great tips thanks everyone 👍
Throw away 1” foam brushes are the best for this technique. I’m just a DIY guy, but I came up with exactly the same method on my own, including the curled sand paper and the dabbing.
Friendly Tip! I would have used a plastic yellow putty knife. Water down putty. Avoid sanding. Use an artist brush or a small foam pad. The Gooseneck Guy! Inventor of the Gooseneck paint brush. Cheers!
You could try putting painters tape around the dent. That would protect the wall while sanding & painting, and allow you to press on the wall with your knife. Also, try using small kids paint brushes. With the tape on, you dont have to be so precise. However, the small brushes allow you to be very precise, and they are really cheap. Just remember to pull that tape off immediately after painting.
If you rolled a wall, you have to touch up using a nap roller to avoid flashing. If you touch up a spot on a rolled wall with a brush , it comes out shiner because the brush doesn't produce stippling.
Ive found that using a magic eraser with water will bring the color for uneven spots to match eachother. It sounds weird and crazy, i know. But it works
If you use a razor blade for small homes it puts the Drydex in perfectly on smooth wall and because you have so little leverage on the tiny blade you don’t smoosh and change the paint texture around it
Just thinking outside of the box, a dappled faux finish on a new wall means you’ll never see minute differences on a solid one- color wall. Of course, most people want to live inside of the box.
I was taught to use caulking and spread it with a 5 in 1 for little dings that small. It’s quick and it’s unnoticeable once painted. The caulking sinks in so you don’t even have to sand down anything.
The only way to avoid having the paint flash is to use a flat or eggshell paint. Anything more than that is going to be difficult to touch up. I’m doing a commercial building now and satin bathrooms got patched everywhere so I have to roll the walls entirely again. If you have sizable patches then spot prime multiple times especially with colors like blue or green it’s a terrible color for hiding things. And it depends on the lighting if people will see imperfections, if you’re doing a dark theatre room then you can get away with more
For colored walls where I can get away with touchups, it helps a ton to tint the primer a bit with some of the finish color. Doesn't help with flashing, but I can usually finish with just one good coat of color.
@@dooshnukem32 Yep if we have dark walls to do we’ll often use tinted primer, sometimes we don’t have it but it helps. Especially if you need to one coat something definitely use tinted primer. I was in a building once and there was an office with a dark royal blue sort of color, the GC was on the other side of the wall and put a hammer or something straight through the wall. So it got a massive patch on the wall and it took like two days trying to get this wall to look right. We had to prime it several times and then paint it, it didn’t look right so we skim coated it again and did it again. It was a nightmare for this particular wall for some reason, so that’s why I worry about patches sometimes.
There is a few products that will touch up as you'd hope but it also depends on the colour and sheen. It's worth a shot to see if it passes. Have had good luck on walls with Super 2 low sheen egg from Cloverdale myself, also the Behr paints I think.
13:12 If we get to the point where the wall paint needs WiFi, we're doomed - haha. No longer a matter of "if the walls could talk" instead "the walls are listening." BTW - thanks for feathering that edge.
Ughhhh! I replaced some wall sconces in our home theater which was painted less than a year ago. I had to spackle and paint where I removed wall anchors. The wall paint is a flat navy. I used paint leftover from earlier. Even so, the touchup looks like a different shade! I thought flat paint was easier to mend! Paint flashing is the most aggravating thing there is.
I just spent weeks mudding a ceiling. did the prep work filling the joints. applied tape. mudded and feathered. sanded. where there were gaps to either side of the tape I'd fill with mud, sand, repeat. Must have done that 8 or 9 times (yeah, I'm not good at this but had great success with one joint in a bathroom so wife said I was going to do the whole bedroom ceiling). Anyway, now I've painted the ceiling and can clearly see all joints. no definite mud edges but the bump creates a shadow. 2 questions. Will enough paint along the tape on either side fix this or do I have to rough up paint and add more mud?
Even if your paint blends in perfectly you have to consider the condition of the wall. If you put a patch on it then the texture will show differently, the patch will be flat but the wall may be textured. Also if the walls are dirty then that messes up your touch up, so at this job i’m at now i’m doing the punch list and I have to get in like 10 different paints and “touch up” many different areas. I’m on a deadline so I have to try to blend it but i’m gonna end up having to paint entire walls which is a pain in the ass. These walls were painted like a month ago but they’re already dirty and discolored because of other trades working there
Great video as always. Maybe you could make a video on how to fix the error of touching the spatula to the wall, and sanding too deep and painting to much. Yes, it was amateur hour on a couple minor dings in a bathroom of mine. The texture is way out from the rest of the wall and I’d love to fix it. Even if it takes redoing the whole wall. Thanks again!
Hi Chris. You should look at skimming the whole wall. Ben has some good videos. And there are others. Sometimes with repairs that is the only option to hide it. People spend alot of time sitting in the bathroom so the walls have to be perfect in my opinion.
^ 100% agree. Just spent a few weeks redoing an entire bathroom that had just been remodeled a few months prior. It looked great at first glance until you sat down on the John long enough to look around - mistake city. And once you see one, you notice them _all._ For your bathroom, Chris, bite the bullet and fix it for good. If your patches all stick out you can sand them flush, but a skim coat may be your best bet overall. Either way, just commit to painting the wall(s) corner to corner. Your sanity will thank you lol.
After feathering out sanding of the patch, I use a painting sea sponge, pre moistened of course, and the touch up is invisible given that I'm using the same can of paint the wall was painted with
I normally use one of those blue shop towels and lay it right over the final coat of paint, then peel it off. It leaves a little bit of texture so it isn’t smooth!
Use a brush, cover the area with paint, then take the tip of the brush and tap it into the repair and work your way out adding stippling and texture also feathering it in with the surrounding area. I commercial painted for 13 years and you can make even larger areas virtually disappear. most untrained eyes will even miss it if done right. the key is blending it with the existing paint .
With basic white wall paint its easier. With color its waaaay more difficult. One of the biggest issue for me is that even when you buy the same pain from same company, there are slight differences from batch to batch.
I had a white wall with a small hole from a wall anchor in the office at work. I filled it in and textured it.... Almost couldn't find it the next day when I went to paint it lol. Honestly if this was my home I'd sand the spackle and leave it haha
The pink stuff is not suposed to «flash» (show were you did patch) but sometimes it will. I don’t take a chance and I always cover with a primer/sealer before paint. Your idea of using the point of the small roller is good, at least it gives a texture to the paint that will match the one already there. Doing those touch ups are tricky, you have to do them with the same paint you applied the first time. If it’s in a house overtime you will get a thin coat of grease on walls so as soon as you do a repair and paint, it will show. White walls are the easiest, coloured walls the most complicated to «spot paint». Cheers!
I've had decent results using an old children's paintbrush (like an artist's brush) to dab the paint on - not wiping the paint on with the side of the bristles but dabbing with the end of the bristles, using a fairly dry brush.
Great technique for matching the texture. I literally frowned when you said you can’t match paint later. Oddly my house has white walls throughout and matching white trim. Not my decision I bought it this this way. My concern is to fix the minor dents throughout means painting a whole floor. 😱 I will be ok, I will be okay, I will be okay… lolol
But if you don't like the white, why not change it? I lived with colors I hated for a year once when we bought a house. I was busy having a baby and just couldn't get to it. Once we changed it, it made such a difference in how I felt about and in the house that I decided I would never again live with a color I hated.
@@SammyMaeQ I actually have come to prefer the white. My frown was because since there is no color change I may have to paint a very large area so it doesnt look off.
I used a paint formulated with nanobots which detects inconsistencies and reconstitutes itself whenever I ding the walls, which is constantly. The only problem is that my house is now self aware and is evicting me because I'm so clumsy. I managed to delay it by threatening a DIY move out but it's only a matter of time at this point
ceiling touch ups take a whole different level of skill compared to wall touch ups. In my opinion a little art brush works better on ceiling touch ups than small roller. Also known as a finch brush. You really want as minimal paint on the ceiling as possible because either way it will be noticeable.
I just use a q-tip to dab it for really small dents and hole (from nails and things). Dip the q-tip in the paint, dab it on a paper towel to get off excess, then dab the spot. It may take a coat or two since you have to do it super lightly after getting off the excess, but I cannot see the repair at all.
i usually just put it on without being super fussy about metal touching, clean with a warm wet rag to bring it small as possible and then final sand and paint
I apply small amounts of compound for minor dent repairs with a razor blade. If almost feathers the edge and requires little sanding. Paint matching never working if using a previously opened can that is more than a few months old. Best way to blend in is to use a small roller that is damp with paint and just roll over the spot and feather the edges out. I have naver had anyone find my touch ups. Yes I am that good.
Very nice vid…very helpful! I’ve got a trouble spot on my ceiling that needs some attention…but it just might be easier to move…LOL! Thanks for the info!
It looks like the Drydex shrunk again after you dried it. I know time is a factor in video so I think the method is solid but the material got you. Love your videos and your skate stuff!
Do people texture their walls in your area? (Orange peel, knockdown, etc.) I don’t believe I’ve seen any mentioning of it in your videos. Repairing textured walls can be a pain, but man it sure makes finishing a lot easier.
For small paint touch-ups like that, one method that worked well for me is to apply the paint with a brush, then roll a DRY roller over it. It will pick up the excess paint (if any) and imprint the roller texture in the paint 🙂
Exactly. Works great at removing any edges.
What he was doing is called "stippling". You can do this with a paint brush. You only get the front 1/4" or so if the bristles wet, and then you use the point of the brush, pushing it repeatedly against the wall as he was doing the roller end. For something this small it would be best to use a 1/2" fairly stiff bristle brush, or alternately just one end of a 4" brush.
Dry rolling, as you discovered, is a really good way to help clean the end result up.
Yes! This is my go to technique
Yes! This is my go to technique
Yes! This is my go to technique
So this may sound odd but I have fluffed up and used a Q Tip in the past. I roll the paint on with it and have been happy with results! Obviously this works on small spots. Also for sanding, I've just used a paper towel or even fingers in the past. Just my input:)
Neat advice, it has helped me!
Great video as always Ben. My technique is a little different. I fill and use a damp sponge to remove the dry leftover mud adjacent to the hole. I then dab the paint and use the same damp sponge to “feather” the paint around the edges. It’s 90%+ perfection and never end to paint the whole wall.
Thanks for sharing!
Yeah, on a textured wall, the wet sponge will make it literally impossible to find the hole. I left my last rental before I bought my place, and the landlord was floored how perfect we left the place
Ed;
I ve done this as well the sponge works really well for small blend in areas.
thats what I do and it works great!!
I've used artist's brushes and sponges. I like sponges more.
Thanks bro, I've been getting tips from you for about 2 years now. I've started my own Plastering business in New Zealand since then and we're growing fast. I wish i could return the favor by donating through your live streams etc. All in all, kinda just wanted to thank you my guy, you're the man.
Bro if yr in business in NZ yr here to make $$$ and time is $$$ - Im a builder and when do touch ups like this I putty / filler, overfill and whack an electric sander on it then quick roll with a matched paint - Result excellent.
That's way too much work for such a simple quick fix.
Where are you mate?
Good tips! Another good tip I've picked up is simply to use masking tape around the area prior to starting
What you have done with the paint is called stippling. Can be done with either a brush or roller. Also paints with sheen will flatten over time. Thinning the touch up paint substantially with water can help match the sheen
Joe B, are you a painter?
To match the old wall stipple I add some powder bag mud to my first coat of primer to thicken The more stipple you need the more bag mud you add. Works like a charm. I’ve been repairing wet plaster walls in historic homes using this technique for 25 years
Or you can add some fleotrol
Hi. A painter suggest a tip for me when filling in holes. He said instead of sanding it to use a small damp cloth and wipe over it. Doing so wipes all the extra filler off the sides and leaves the holes filled in perfectly. No sanding required.
That's exactly what I do, especially if there's texture. Sometimes I just use my thumb.
@@Bapuji42 Definitely sanded some patches like this with my thumb haha. Works just fine if I'm just getting the walls ready for the paint crew
@@joshyaash For real, you don't want to get too formal about spackle.
Last pink stuff I applied says it’s silica. Not good for your skin, even worse for your lungs, so wet cloth finish is faster and safer.
The pink stuff is great for fixing dents. I use those cheap disposable foam brushes for dabbing paint on patches. It leaves a good texture. If the patch is a large one and the texture does not match the original wall I wait for the paint to be nearly dry then I deliberately dab on it with the foam brush or a regular brush to mess up the smoothness of the fresh paint. If it still looks too smooth after I put more paint and deliberately mess it up too until I’m happy with the texture. Doesn’t always work but it’s usually less noticeable.
For the paint I sometimes use a super soft ladies large makeup brush with just the very tips of the fine bristles dabbed with the original paint (original mix if possible!). I gently dab this on the wall (never brushing!) and touching the wall very delicately. Do this multiple times but work away from the repaired spot to fan out using less dabs and paint as you move away from the repair. If the original paint on the wall is not too old this is generally quite effective. If the spot in question is not in the normal line of sight and not subject to bright light flooding it, the result should please the homeowner and avoid you/them having to paint the whole wall.
Ben, I like that you decided to try using a "mini" roller to touch-up a few areas on your wall in this video. I recently used a sponge dipped in a litttle paint and it did a good job of restoring the "stipple" texture of the wall too!
As a painting contractor i do touchups quite often. The hardest part is getting a really good match, it needs to be the exact color AND sheen. I have a tinting kit that I carry in my van, and if its a tough sheeen Ill buy two paints, one too shiny and and another too flat and mix until i get it just right. Once you get the paint PERFECT you can touch it up however you want, although spraying works really well to fan out the hard edges. Dry rolling can work as well.
That's skill. Hats off to you!
@@readhistory2023 did you even read his comment ?
when I had too much sheen on some touch ups I found a light sand after painting would bring it back to match the original
6:43 I love the mini brush but it's so important to mix your paint really well. Even for spot repairs so that hopefully the sheen is a bit closer. The dulling agent usually settles to the bottom. Stir it baby!
The dulling agent ? Flat paint has more sand and less acrylic
I was going to attempt a small repair behind a door with a paint brush but I will definitely be using a roller now instead, there was another more visible dent that I was going to leave but I will see how well I can fill the first hole. Thank you for the great informative vid!
I really appreciate your attention to detail. In reading comments, I saw and agree there are several ways to get good results, but regardless of method there is no substitute for taking your time. And you're always willing to try other methods.
A trick I’ve used with success after repairing and sanding filled spots smooth is to stipple the smooth surface with either primer or the color coat using just the end of the brush bristles to avoid the spot from looking too smooth. This also helps before rolling the wall with all new paint. I also use a perpendicular scraper to catch and remove any and all raised bits from the previous painting before applying the new coat.
For filling tiny holes I do the surgical approach, I will put blue tape across the hole, Cut out the exact shape of the hole (cut the hole first to make it easier), Press mud into the hole and use the knife to pull across the tape. Then remove the tape and you are left with a perfect slightly proud fill, without any buildup, And the knife never touches the wall. When the mud dries and shrinks just a hair gently scrape with a razor blade to get it down to level, As for painting I usually gently dab it with a Q-tip evenly distributing across and slightly over the repair
I use the same method, but I sand with the blue tape intact. Once you sand to see see some sanding of the blue tape, clean and paint.
Glad he called out the fact you can't get 100% unless you do the full routine. That is true particularly if a) the paint has been around a while (and oxidized, changing the colour over time) and/or the wall is exposed to sun much of the time (which fades colours).
Depends on your need to match....
I like to use masking tape to go around the small damage. It allows me to apply the mud without touching the wall with the small trowel. Then remove the tape and add more to do the sanding. I use a hobbie brush to do the prime and paint.
This works for me. I use an old plastic credit card as a putty (lightweight spackle) knife and a small piece of sponge to apply the paint.
Awesome tips!
I've had good success with those little foam brushes and just dab with it. I'll mix my paint really well and then use the foam brush to push the excess paint on my mixing spatula back into the can and whatever is left on the foam brush i take even more off and then just dab the touch up area. I barely use any paint and it has come out great every time! those brushes are super cheap but I'm even cheaper and I just wash the brush with just warm water and let it dry and put it in a ziplock and reuse the same one.
Me too bro, buy them in bulk and they’re like 20-30 cents each
Thanks for the video. I was always under the assumption you would have to sand the surrounding paint as well before repainting over but by the look of it the paint will stick to the prior coat anyway.
Thanks for the tips now hopefully this works so i dont have to paint whole wall.Bought house and people had frames and curtains everywhere.When they moved out they left holes everywhere but paint was still good condition other than holes.Thanks saved me money and time
Some (big box?) hardware stores sell single-use spray cans. That is, it is a jar with an attached aerosol sprayer. Pour your paint in the jar, then spray. If paint tint matching is a challenge, spraying with your "close match" new paint but feathering it out via spraying may be an option.
I have had reason to do a reasonable amount of this sort of patch and paint over the last two years or so. My method patch and sand with 220 grit, but take the sanded area beyond the patch. I think, at least to some degree, the material used can make a difference. In my case I'm using Benjamin Moore paint and for painting I use a foam brush just to get the paint onto the wall. When I started this process I used the standard mini foam roller, but I found was the texture was not the same as a regular standard wall roller. Makes sense right!?
What I bought (HD) and left on my bench for quite some time is a 3" fibre roller kit from an outfit called Pintar, the model?, but called "Quick fix & small area kit." I tend to roll out the paint 3-4" in roughly a circle. I have found once I have done this, thou sometimes two coats, I literally can not see the patch. The texture is near identical to original.
The one draw back to this little roller is, the handle and axle is plastic. To release the end hub one has to pinch the end of the axle slightly. With paint on the roller and very tight space it can be done, but it can be awfully annoying at times.
On the packaging it also mentions good for trim work, which is actually why I purchased it in the first place, and it is. Far superior, and quicker, finish especially for those larger flat sections than any brush. This roller does a good job conforming to some of the not so deep moulded areas.
Am I cheerleading this product, yes. I am not associated with the company in any way. This, in my opinion at least, is a product that does a really good job, thou of course it will depend on the skill of the user too.
Ben you're a master at this kind of work and even better at making these tutorials. Top quality content on the subject
Heck yeah Ben, I’m on break at a side job rn rippin dabs and skimming walls. Keep up the great work. Always Super helpful and entertaining.
Hell yeah
We record all paint type& colour codes / application methods (spray/brush&roll nap) on record. This is part of our service and lowers our cost on future calls from client. Thanks for your great video tutorials.
“Paint Conspiracy”😮. 🤣😂 I love how relaxed and light hearted all your videos are. This was a great one as I’m sure everyone has touch ups from time to time. Thanks for a great channel with great content. Very appreciated.
Actually a good video for tiny patches. One thing to mention (I skipped through so not sure if this was mentioned) this will really only work if you use the EXACT same paint left over from actually painting the wall in the first place.
If you have to get a new tub of paint, even if it’s the same brand and colour if it’s a different tub of paint it will always be a slightly different shade.
Actually as I’m typing this … he mentioned this exact point … side note when he says ‘flashing’ or ‘flash’ that’s a decorators term for the Sheen difference that you will get on a big patch job.
Also if you are patching over fresh filler it’s best to double coat it so the filler doesn’t flash.
Really good video 🤘🏼🙋🏻♂️
I realized right when you showed how it turned out. That the reason people in general do so many videos. Is because they like to hear there own voice.
Still learning at 82! Thanks for letting me know that it will not be perfect on mu first job/try.
earned the hard way. I painted my kitchen last winter. Touched up a few spots after removing an outlet cover (which tore up the first applied paint in the winter) and the new touchup paint went on differently. Shadowy. Just realized painting in different temperatures will yield different results
I use the same dabbing method, but with one of those little sausage foam rollers that have a rounded end. You can easily control the surface area covered.
Unfortunately with the right (or wrong) angle and natural light almost any touch up is noticeable no matter what you do if the sheen is Satin or Semi. With eggshell or flat paint you have a decent chance in the right light. People are so picky these days we usually just reroll the wall (or try to feather and hide the edge above a window or door). The other thing I’ve noticed over the years is that the more uniform the patch the easier it is to spot; whereas, non-uniform patches tend not to catch the eye. Basically people just need to fill up the room with furniture and pictures and quit focusing on tiny imperfections. Drives us nuts!
100%
Not sure minimalists will agree but as a hoarder I concur! 🤣😂
Seriously, some customers want a flawless unnoticeable patch. It does drive us nuts.
2 Foam brushes
1. Wax on. dab brush on the area until the patch is colored
2. Wax off, use foam brush 2 (DRY) to take ALL the paint off you just put on.
This will take all the paint off the wall, (the painted surface) but not your patch (dry gypsum) which just absorbed the paint
You won’t get sheen build up since it’s the same number of coats in every surface. That one took a long time for me to figure out
You are Awesome! I learn so much from your channel. I take what I learn from you and use it on the job. My best to you.
Can you do a video on how to find a good contractor, where to look, what to ask, what research should be done (like price research)? I’d say finding a good company to do the work is the biggest challenge as a new homeowner
Check out a channel called The Honest Carpenter - another contractor turned DIY guru. He put out a great video a few months back about this very topic. I'd still enjoy Ben's take on it tho 🙂
I generally take my sand paper and run across the concrete to dull the paper. It really helps with scratches.
Good tip
It might be good to say that it very much depends on the product that you used on the wall. There are paints that you can touch up with that get zero flashing almost no matter how you do it. Also once you get into eggshell, satin, or semi even the small patches that you did would show very easily with the higher sheens.
The newer versions of the computer matching machines are doing better, but most stores don't have them. They can get 98%. So depending on which pigments go into your paint and how much pigment is used you can color match and touch up with it.
I record all paint codes/application method (nap/brush/spray) on internal records. Part of lowering costs if ever called upon.
@@BlossomPainting first off I love how your name is painting. Second im not sure how that information is relevent for touch up. Its very obvious which method was used when you are touching up. Thirdly you should always give the client a record of paint color and product. Lastly are you a bot?
@@jaredscott2617 1st, thanks. 2nd, it’s not always obvious to the next guy (less room for error WHEN touching up). 3rd, Internal records also show up on clients invoice. And NO , we are not a bot.
@@BlossomPainting "we are not a bot" sounds sus to me. How many base belong to you? All?
You need to train the next guy better if he cant tell between brush, roll, or spray.
@@jaredscott2617 the next guy may not have had the privilege of being trained with us, we are thinking of the bigger picture.
8:39 Ben, these videos are so well done, thank you. Just trying to find one of your videos that will demonstrate how to fix a “big dent” - the wall has a large indent /cracked from a person falling against it as they fell down the steps!
I use a washing dishes sponge and works very well as well... thank you for the tips
sometimes I just finger paint to avoid brush marks, also when I have a higher sheen on touch ups a light sand can bring it back to match
2 hours after fixing these little dents the kids made a bigger hole in the wall. You can never fix all of these little imperfections in life so don't worry about it.
If you're in an apartment with a deposit, it's very relevant.
I got Lowes to color match my paint. It was slightly darker. I ended up repainting the whole wall. It is 100 percent. The color was close enough to be only needed on the one wall.
I find using a foam brush to be good in a situation like this. Foam brushes have a point at the end, so you can control the paint to very small tight areas, but it also gives a finish similar to a roller.
Brilliant tips I’m stealing the roller dabbing technique! Love your attention to detail Also loving lots of the comments with more great tips thanks everyone 👍
Throw away 1” foam brushes are the best for this technique.
I’m just a DIY guy, but I came up with exactly the same method on my own, including the curled sand paper and the dabbing.
Friendly Tip! I would have used a plastic yellow putty knife. Water down putty. Avoid sanding. Use an artist brush or a small foam pad. The Gooseneck Guy! Inventor of the Gooseneck paint brush. Cheers!
Any reason you wouldn’t surround the ding with painters tape to protect the wall while you sand?
You really are the drywalliest carpenter. Lol. But I learned a lot from this one! And even got some further great tips from the other comments. :)
Great job! It blends very well and it is hard to find where the patch is!
Your attention to detail is awesome 👏🏽. Even the seemingly simple jobs can be done better! Thanks man!
You could try putting painters tape around the dent. That would protect the wall while sanding & painting, and allow you to press on the wall with your knife. Also, try using small kids paint brushes. With the tape on, you dont have to be so precise. However, the small brushes allow you to be very precise, and they are really cheap. Just remember to pull that tape off immediately after painting.
If you rolled a wall, you have to touch up using a nap roller to avoid flashing. If you touch up a spot on a rolled wall with a brush , it comes out shiner because the brush doesn't produce stippling.
Quick set DAP putty is really good for small drywall repairs and filling nail holes on trim.
Ive found that using a magic eraser with water will bring the color for uneven spots to match eachother. It sounds weird and crazy, i know. But it works
If you use a razor blade for small homes it puts the Drydex in perfectly on smooth wall and because you have so little leverage on the tiny blade you don’t smoosh and change the paint texture around it
Just thinking outside of the box, a dappled faux finish on a new wall means you’ll never see minute differences on a solid one- color wall. Of course, most people want to live inside of the box.
I read to use those mini craft sponges that painters use, u just need to dab bits of paint on the touch up areas
I was taught to use caulking and spread it with a 5 in 1 for little dings that small. It’s quick and it’s unnoticeable once painted. The caulking sinks in so you don’t even have to sand down anything.
The only way to avoid having the paint flash is to use a flat or eggshell paint. Anything more than that is going to be difficult to touch up. I’m doing a commercial building now and satin bathrooms got patched everywhere so I have to roll the walls entirely again. If you have sizable patches then spot prime multiple times especially with colors like blue or green it’s a terrible color for hiding things. And it depends on the lighting if people will see imperfections, if you’re doing a dark theatre room then you can get away with more
For colored walls where I can get away with touchups, it helps a ton to tint the primer a bit with some of the finish color. Doesn't help with flashing, but I can usually finish with just one good coat of color.
@@dooshnukem32 Yep if we have dark walls to do we’ll often use tinted primer, sometimes we don’t have it but it helps. Especially if you need to one coat something definitely use tinted primer. I was in a building once and there was an office with a dark royal blue sort of color, the GC was on the other side of the wall and put a hammer or something straight through the wall. So it got a massive patch on the wall and it took like two days trying to get this wall to look right. We had to prime it several times and then paint it, it didn’t look right so we skim coated it again and did it again. It was a nightmare for this particular wall for some reason, so that’s why I worry about patches sometimes.
There is a few products that will touch up as you'd hope but it also depends on the colour and sheen. It's worth a shot to see if it passes. Have had good luck on walls with Super 2 low sheen egg from Cloverdale myself, also the Behr paints I think.
You just HAD to feather that paint edge didn’t you!….drywall addict! Lol
Thanks for all your incredibly descriptive tips bro. You definitely help me.
I'm a big fan of your skating channel and was looking to fix up my house a bit before selling. Thanks for the video legend!
13:12 If we get to the point where the wall paint needs WiFi, we're doomed - haha. No longer a matter of "if the walls could talk" instead "the walls are listening." BTW - thanks for feathering that edge.
Ughhhh! I replaced some wall sconces in our home theater which was painted less than a year ago. I had to spackle and paint where I removed wall anchors. The wall paint is a flat navy. I used paint leftover from earlier. Even so, the touchup looks like a different shade! I thought flat paint was easier to mend!
Paint flashing is the most aggravating thing there is.
I just spent weeks mudding a ceiling. did the prep work filling the joints. applied tape. mudded and feathered. sanded. where there were gaps to either side of the tape I'd fill with mud, sand, repeat. Must have done that 8 or 9 times (yeah, I'm not good at this but had great success with one joint in a bathroom so wife said I was going to do the whole bedroom ceiling). Anyway, now I've painted the ceiling and can clearly see all joints. no definite mud edges but the bump creates a shadow. 2 questions. Will enough paint along the tape on either side fix this or do I have to rough up paint and add more mud?
Even if your paint blends in perfectly you have to consider the condition of the wall. If you put a patch on it then the texture will show differently, the patch will be flat but the wall may be textured. Also if the walls are dirty then that messes up your touch up, so at this job i’m at now i’m doing the punch list and I have to get in like 10 different paints and “touch up” many different areas. I’m on a deadline so I have to try to blend it but i’m gonna end up having to paint entire walls which is a pain in the ass. These walls were painted like a month ago but they’re already dirty and discolored because of other trades working there
I feel like I'm watching Bob Ross. Very mellow video. Great tips.
Roller did a nice job. I would also think Q-tip, or dabbing with a cloth would do better thana brush. Thanks!
Excellent demonstration and advice👍
Great video as always. Maybe you could make a video on how to fix the error of touching the spatula to the wall, and sanding too deep and painting to much. Yes, it was amateur hour on a couple minor dings in a bathroom of mine. The texture is way out from the rest of the wall and I’d love to fix it. Even if it takes redoing the whole wall. Thanks again!
Hi Chris. You should look at skimming the whole wall. Ben has some good videos. And there are others. Sometimes with repairs that is the only option to hide it. People spend alot of time sitting in the bathroom so the walls have to be perfect in my opinion.
^ 100% agree.
Just spent a few weeks redoing an entire bathroom that had just been remodeled a few months prior. It looked great at first glance until you sat down on the John long enough to look around - mistake city. And once you see one, you notice them _all._
For your bathroom, Chris, bite the bullet and fix it for good. If your patches all stick out you can sand them flush, but a skim coat may be your best bet overall. Either way, just commit to painting the wall(s) corner to corner. Your sanity will thank you lol.
After feathering out sanding of the patch, I use a painting sea sponge, pre moistened of course, and the touch up is invisible given that I'm using the same can of paint the wall was painted with
Talk about old-school. I'm the guy that planted the old-growth. I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
I normally use one of those blue shop towels and lay it right over the final coat of paint, then peel it off. It leaves a little bit of texture so it isn’t smooth!
Use a brush, cover the area with paint, then take the tip of the brush and tap it into the repair and work your way out adding stippling and texture also feathering it in with the surrounding area. I commercial painted for 13 years and you can make even larger areas virtually disappear. most untrained eyes will even miss it if done right. the key is blending it with the existing paint .
With basic white wall paint its easier. With color its waaaay more difficult. One of the biggest issue for me is that even when you buy the same pain from same company, there are slight differences from batch to batch.
Only if its clean. If its not youre not going to match it.
I had a white wall with a small hole from a wall anchor in the office at work. I filled it in and textured it.... Almost couldn't find it the next day when I went to paint it lol. Honestly if this was my home I'd sand the spackle and leave it haha
The pink stuff is not suposed to «flash» (show were you did patch) but sometimes it will. I don’t take a chance and I always cover with a primer/sealer before paint. Your idea of using the point of the small roller is good, at least it gives a texture to the paint that will match the one already there. Doing those touch ups are tricky, you have to do them with the same paint you
applied the first time. If it’s in a house overtime you will get a thin coat of grease on walls so as soon as you do a repair and paint, it will show. White walls are the easiest, coloured walls the most complicated to «spot paint». Cheers!
You mentioned you didn't recommend using the quickset type to do this. I am wondering during why not?
Here is a tip for you Vancouver...87 cent Foam brush but add floetrol to the paint so is self levels out.
Dammm man small world eh? No way I found the skater guy in TH-cam for carpentry. God bless you Ben
I've had decent results using an old children's paintbrush (like an artist's brush) to dab the paint on - not wiping the paint on with the side of the bristles but dabbing with the end of the bristles, using a fairly dry brush.
Great technique for matching the texture. I literally frowned when you said you can’t match paint later. Oddly my house has white walls throughout and matching white trim. Not my decision I bought it this this way. My concern is to fix the minor dents throughout means painting a whole floor. 😱 I will be ok, I will be okay, I will be okay… lolol
You can get a good enough color match to not have to paint all the walls but you will need to go corner to corner for the wall that needs repair.
@@vancouvercarpenter Thanks! That is good to know.
But if you don't like the white, why not change it? I lived with colors I hated for a year once when we bought a house. I was busy having a baby and just couldn't get to it. Once we changed it, it made such a difference in how I felt about and in the house that I decided I would never again live with a color I hated.
@@SammyMaeQ I actually have come to prefer the white. My frown was because since there is no color change I may have to paint a very large area so it doesnt look off.
I used a paint formulated with nanobots which detects inconsistencies and reconstitutes itself whenever I ding the walls, which is constantly. The only problem is that my house is now self aware and is evicting me because I'm so clumsy. I managed to delay it by threatening a DIY move out but it's only a matter of time at this point
🤣
ceiling touch ups take a whole different level of skill compared to wall touch ups. In my opinion a little art brush works better on ceiling touch ups than small roller. Also known as a finch brush. You really want as minimal paint on the ceiling as possible because either way it will be noticeable.
time do destroy some of my old makeup brushes i guess. i moved most of my stuff before the landlord changed their mind about some of the alterations 😭
I just use a q-tip to dab it for really small dents and hole (from nails and things). Dip the q-tip in the paint, dab it on a paper towel to get off excess, then dab the spot. It may take a coat or two since you have to do it super lightly after getting off the excess, but I cannot see the repair at all.
i usually just put it on without being super fussy about metal touching, clean with a warm wet rag to bring it small as possible and then final sand and paint
I apply small amounts of compound for minor dent repairs with a razor blade. If almost feathers the edge and requires little sanding. Paint matching never working if using a previously opened can that is more than a few months old. Best way to blend in is to use a small roller that is damp with paint and just roll over the spot and feather the edges out. I have naver had anyone find my touch ups. Yes I am that good.
You can do color touch ups with flat/eggshell ish paints but the original paint needs to be recent.
Very nice vid…very helpful! I’ve got a trouble spot on my ceiling that needs some attention…but it just might be easier to move…LOL! Thanks for the info!
why is plywood for a pullup bar? seems like longer screws into the studs would be better, no?
You're an artist!
Love the painting videos! Hope you make more 👍
I ‘m sure you have addressed this in other videos but what about using a sponge rather than sand paper?
Love your videos, you’re awesome
@VancoverCarpenter thanks this video. What if you use a paper towel or rag to dab the wall?
I wonder what would happen if you pressed a hot rag on the dent? Would the dent swell and flatten again?
Been watching your other for years. Didn’t expect to see you here lol
Thanks Ben that video was a hoot!!! You have helped me tremendously with my projects and I just wanted to say thanks 👍👍
It looks like the Drydex shrunk again after you dried it. I know time is a factor in video so I think the method is solid but the material got you. Love your videos and your skate stuff!
Do people texture their walls in your area? (Orange peel, knockdown, etc.) I don’t believe I’ve seen any mentioning of it in your videos.
Repairing textured walls can be a pain, but man it sure makes finishing a lot easier.