DIYer here. I’m working on prepping a few rooms for paint and I have found several of your videos extremely helpful. Especially they drywall repair, tape mud videos. Thanks for taking the time to educate 👍🏻
I'm a contractor, jack of all trades pretty much. I watch these all the time, you've saved me a lot of time and effort, and, by extension, money. Thanks man for making these, it super valuable 🤘🤘🤘
I used to skate and would watch you all the time. Just became a home owner and looked a video on how to replace door trim. And you popped up. This is awesome
I'm a retired painter and I always used Peel Stop and applied it by brush. It really locked down the edges and penetrated delaminated paper eliminating air pockets. It's thin as water. Dried in 10 or 20 and was water clean-up. You can also use it on exterior surfaces. What else? Oh yes, I don't miss painting. 😊
We’ve used wood glue for decades, because it’s handy, clean and saturates into even loose paper you might miss in the prep process. We don’t sand it either. And, it’s great for helping fix deeper holes in conjunction with fiberglass tape. Only thing to watch is drips down the wall as they’re hard to fix afterward.
Two days ago I needed to do this, but I didn't have shellac primer or Super 77, but I did have some white glue. So I mixed 1 part white glue and 2 parts water. It's essentially Gardz, or thinned out wood glue. Anyway, it did a bang up job.
Wood glue worked a treat for me. I must thank you for all of your tips n tricks. im just finishing up skim coating all my bedrooms as they all had wallpaper and made a mess getting the wallpaper off I was thinking I was going to have to pay someone to come do it. But watching your videos has helped me do the job to a high standard thank you once again .uch appreciated 👌👍
Discovered Spray 77 years ago, same thing, used it in a pinch, was already setting cornerbead in prep for tape. I sprayed in on and rubbed it in around the edges especially. Works great! I'm an old retired drywaller and I do enjoy your videos! Keep em' coming!
@@als1023 Back in the day, Yes. We would use 77 to set the bead and tape the metal or plastic on. This was common practice in commercial settings but we soon adopted it for resid. applications too
I literally was looking for a way to cover torn drywall paper this morning and went out and bought BIN after watching your 3yr old video..worked great! Then this video comes out and I realized I had wood glue on hand. Oh well..discovering BIN will be super useful in the future. Thank you so much for enabling me to fix my own drywall!
Zinnser Gardz has been my go to for doing big drywall rehabs. Its especially good after wallpaper removal. Downside is the 3hr dry time and some people can't stand the smell. I believe Gardz is basically watered down glue. The 77 works great for small areas.
Love it. Once all the loose paper is scraped off, I like to use a sanding sponge lightly on the paper to knock down any little bits left before applying BIN. It really makes a difference. Thanks for the videos.
I got through maybe 30 seconds of 10 other horrible videos before I fortunately found yours. Thank you so much for not only the information but for the presentation as well. You're my new go to
May be the "silliest" as you said but I'd agree more with what you said about "it's what I have." That's encouraging to the homeowner who has a simple putty or joint knife at home but no set of official "drywall" knives. Thanks for the demonstration of the "glue" options.
A couple coats with Zinsser cover stain spray and you can still brush it out, way faster and less messy. Done it thousands of time with excellent results. Thank you excellent video 👍🏾
I honestly considered wood glue last night, being the only thing I had, but instead I figured I'd put it off until today and look for a video on your channel, and here we are 😂 like you knew me 😂
If you are someone who has other reasons to use shellac primer, don't throw away the brush! Keep a container of denatured alcohol in the truck. You can even let the shellac fully harden in the brush and then just soak it for 30 min or so in the denatured alcohol next time you need it and the shellac dissolves and is ready to use again. I use shellac primer for almost every interior wood scenario, as well as almost every stain blocking primer adventure. The stuff is incredible!
I found a tip on TH-cam to store the brush and small roller sleeve. Grab a round plastic tub that you buy painters wipes in (Big wipes) but a small bit of methylated spirit in the bottom and keep topped up, and stand your brushes in there. All sealed up and ready to use over and over again. Works a treat 😊
Liquid masonry bonder. Looks and performs like very thin white glue. Soaks into the paper, it will even flatten and adhere any loose paper. Dries fairly quickly, apply with a cheap brush. Water soluble, easy soap and water clean up. Skim coats without any perceptible change from the surrounding paper face. It will work with ANY amount of paper loss with NO blistering.
Zinnser Bin brush cleaner works a treat even on hardening Bin Primer brushes, believe it or not. If you leave your brush uncleaned over night and the brush it still a little bit flexible, i.e. crusty on the outside with a gooey milk center, just pop it back in the paint tin for 30 mins and its as good as new. I wrap mine in one of my used vinyl gloves at the end of the day and they are perfect the next morning.
Murphy's oil soap also works well at removing paint from a brush you forget to clean. Put oil soap in a cup hang brush too paint line and watch it wick the paint out. It also makes an excellent conditioner for the brushes themselves.. Masters paint brush soap also works well..learned this from a still life oil painter ..
You remind me of me, I can tell you have done this A LOT and you know what works and what doesn't. It is something I can tell. A lot of the videos on this remind me of when I started doing this 20 years ago.
I just did this after watching your video and it works perfectly!! I had the paper coming off on an unpainted, interior garage wall. I followed your instructions exactly!! I have not had any problems when painting. I used the shellac method. Thanks!
I’ve been using Gardz with success but saw this and went with wood glue. You say in a pinch but I say it’s the best! No prep for the product, easy water clean up and I can just use my hands if I want. The dry time was lower than Gardz but higher than Shellac but not by much. It worked great! Thanks! Details: Using Gardz and wood glue, in a bathroom environment. Only using 20 minute hot mud. Coated with eggshell/satin and semi-gloss. Full dry and cure times prior to actual bath and shower use. May not be feasible for all but I’ve got 2 full baths. More details: These people are pros imparting their knowledge, if not a pro, don’t go with 20. 45 at least :-D
I just tried Zissner or something like that oil based primer spray and it developed a lot of tiny air bubbles as it dried. They were easily knocked down with a single pass of the sanding sponge, but I wasn’t expecting that. I’ll try your brand next time.
Former painter here... and we used to use " Kilz" s well for this brown paper spots. Never had an issue either! It's basically a spray shellac with pigment. The pigment is added, basically, so you can see what your spraying. Works great. The only real drawback is that it is a bit spendy, but one large can can last for several jobs and ALWAYS has come on in clutch!
At the big box orange store, a 13oz spray can of Kilz white Oil-Based Interior Primer spray is roughly $11, where a 13oz Spray can of white BIN Shellac Base Primer is $21. I don't doubt the results of this video in showing how good BIN Shellac is, but it is twice the cost of Kilz in my area! Will the spray can of Kilz work just as well?
I use white-out, yes you heard that right. the correction fluid you can buy anywhere. It is super cheap , easy to apply and seals it beautifully. Give it a try.
I use peel stop, and it has worked for me. I am on the fence with gardz, and I bought a quart of each to see how they worked. Thanks for the great videos.
Ha! That spray adhesive is the same product I used in art school to seal my pencil and charcoal drawings 😄 Thank you for your tips- I've been scraping away at my bathroom walls and I'm grateful for some guidance!
Awesome video, I learned a TON. I did a demo yesterday & removed two mirrors 5’ x 10’ each and now I have to fix all the areas where the glue tore off the paper. I think I’ll use the Glue method, I’ll post my results.
Hey Ben! First off, thank you for all your inspiring and highly educational videos! My wife and I started building a garage with an apartment on top about three years ago, and then started building or house nextdoor about two years ago, and from the start I've always said 'I'm NOT going to be doing any mudding and painting." Well... When we did the apartment we couldn't find any painters who were available so with the help of your amazing videos we taped, mudded and painted and it turned out pretty decent! And now with the house, we got some quotes to get it done but I felt that the prices were too high, so now I've rehearsed by watching your videos again and am about halfway through. It's even slightly enjoyable this time with some more experience under my belt! Second: living in Sweden and watching your videos, I find some things you do "over there" a lot more cumbersome and was wondering if you could weigh in on why you do things the way you do? 1. Putting drywall horizontally instead of vertically? Here in Sweden we do it the other way around, and use drywall of the same length as the room height. This means we only ever get butt joints when the room is higher than about 3m. This, in my eyes, saves a lot of work cutting drywall and mudding and taping butt joints! 2. Here (and probably in most of Europe?) we use round electrical boxes. This makes it super easy (barely en inconvenience) to make holes for the outlets: just use a hole-in-one where you place one part in the box before you put up the drywall, use a magnetic seeker to find the box, and then use a circular hole saw to drill the hole. Bam! Takes about ten seconds to do a hole, instead of probably at least a minute when you have to measure where the hole is supposed to be and then use the saw to saw out a square opening. Also: the holes tend to get perfectly aligned and rarely need and mudding. Have a look at this instructional video from a swedish house-company where you can see both 1 and 2 above. th-cam.com/video/KcPRfKic-Js/w-d-xo.html
There are different building codes in the US. The drywall is installed horizontally and the butt joints are staggered which increases the shear strength of the structure and prevents possible sagging and joint cracking as the framing dries and the structure settles. I've hung boards both ways in different circumstances but I prefer horizontal
That video is pretty amazing - the guy works with his materials at the speed of thought. The transmission from his mind to reality is mesmerizing - wish it allowed comments! Just a joy to watch!
Thank you for putting this, and your other well-done videos up for us! A couple of comments: 1) 77 has wicked solvent fumes and rubbery overspray galore (beware of finished surfaces). Yet it is a great problem solver, so proceed with caution. 2) A professional painter introduced me to generic water-based PVA primer (inexpensive), which he pointed out is the correct primer for exposed wallboard paper because it soaks into the fibers and forms a sealing film that is then paint-ready (I am NOT saying to skip the mud and go straight to paint). It seems that it would be the ideal product in this use, as it's a tinted and thinned out version of the wood glue. It dries really fast, as in about 15 minutes or less depending on the temperature and relative humidity. Have you used it?
BIN works great. I also use concrete bonding adhesive. For cleaning shellac use denatured alcohol or household ammonia. I just recently tried the ammonia and was surprised how well it works.
I like to use Gardz for large tears, never thought to use super 77. I always carry some 77 with me because its great to help fiber tape stick to the painted areas around a patch
I've used thin layers of thick 5 min hot mud (just before it sets up) after getting loose paper off and never had a problem. I think the most important thing is prep getting that loose paper off and minimizing wet contact. Great info regardless. Thanks!
33 yr handyman here - BIN cleans up almost INSTANTLY if you dunk the wet or almost dry brush into ammonia!!! I recommend the double strength janitorial ammonia - cleans Bin brushes magically!!!
What!! I thought you had a video using “Roman Rx-35 PRO-999 1 gal. Interior Drywall Repair and Sealer Primer” on raw paper, so I’ve been using it for years. Thanks for the video, I’ve learned a lot.
You can also use polyurethane (varnish) instead of the Bins primer, has the same chemicals inside (shellac). Only difference is you have to sand it first. I've patched using a homemade hawk made from a scrap of plywood and a plastic knife, all I had on hand. Homemade hawk on a pail worked great as a mixing board too. Impressed by using the wood glue, it would be easy to keep a small bottle in my tool box for such an emergency. Great tips - thanks Ben.
Bins primer may be thinned down with denatured alcohol. In fact you can remove bins primer with denatured alcohol. But it has no effect on polyurethane finishes. Varnishes do not contain denatured alcohol. Non-latex paint and varnish thinners are not alcohol based.
Some water spread with a brush ou the spot then i use a simple sanding sponge to get rid of those weak layers of brun paper... 100% working no more issues to recoat it... 26 EXP on fixing walls... give it a try and thanks for your good teaching
The wood glue or pva glue works great because it absorbs into the paper and binds the pulp… also, compound seems to like sticking to it. Especially if you add a little of the glue to the mud. I use Type I or regular Ehlmer’s All-purpose PVA
I'm new to DIY and not very strong yet. I tried using a full sized hawk for my ceiling, but I just couldn't hold it up. I found my 12" knife makes the perfect sized 'hawk' to use with my 10" knife, which is the biggest my wrists and child-sized hands can manage right now. This video was helpful. I took down some wire closet shelving. It was put up when the paint was still a bit wet, so when I took it down it peeled off some paint and paper.
Had some leftover Minwax clear shellac and tried it out on some torn paper in my bathroom remodel. Works great, however, as a comment below said the VOC was really strong. Had to close the door and open a window so that is one drawback but it does save you from having to go buy a big can that you will never use it all up.
The new kids won't know why you continue to eyeball your knives..to find which way the corners curve...a very helpful tip I learned from you..and I worked for a finisher/painter when I was in school, no one told me this! I'm old now..😀
Here is an extra tip about the orientation of your knife. Make a noticeable notch on the handle where your hand meets the area where the handle joins the actual blade. That way; you will FEEL that spot every time you grab the knife and instinctively know how to hold it, without ever having to look at it again.
I prefer regular Elmer’s All-purpose glue… I brush it on. And I think mud adheres very well to it. Especially if you add a touch of glue to your first coat of mud…. As for BIN, no need to throw out tools or brushes. Denatured alcohol cleans it up lickity-split. Even after it’s dry.
I was going to comment on the denatured alcohol, it really does work, even with other painting tools. Its also good if you get paint on carpet, since the alcohol evaporates quickly, leaving no paint and no smell.
I've had success with plain blonde/clear shellac, since I always have it in my shop, anyway. I thin the stuff in the can by 50% with alcohol so that it can really penetrate the paper and stick everything down, and it dries even quicker. Since I use shellac often, I just clean the brush with alcohol, then hot water. One nice thing about shellac, it doesn't matter if you've let the brush dry and harden, alcohol will always dissolve and clean it.
Very helpful; just wondering did you say you used 20 minute mud then covered with all purpose? When I go to the hardware store, I never know which product to choose, too many options,
You don’t have to throw your brush out!! Use ammonia as the cleaner, I promise you, if you work fast and have the ammonia handy once you are done, you can clean your brush out. It takes a few rinses, but add like one cup of ammonia to an empty coffee can full of water and it will rinse out. Nice clean brush.
My favorite part of this comment is the ending “nice clean brush” hahaha made me reminisce what I say when I can successfully clean my brush quickly enough🤣
Hey Vancouver, Been an avid follower for years now. You honestly were the reason I was able to start renovations business and make drywall/finishing make sense. When it comes to these paper tears(I haven’t finished the video yet so I could get this thought out before the acorn rolls away) I usually scrape the loose crummies and papers off with my taping knife and do a real tight skim coat of quickset(easy sand 45-90 or durabond 45-90 rarely would I use the durabond unless there is a hole as well. But I add blue cap titebond to my mud with 1 drop of regular dawn. It works like a charm for me but I have found that if your mud isn’t creamy enough like the perfect pancake mix consistency and you can’t get that really tight skim this method won’t work. Is this method okay in your mind?
That is what you consider a crusty old brush on its last legs? Well, dear sir, you must be accustomed to a certain standard of living that has alluded the likes of me, my lord. Very good video, as usual. I've found Cover Stain works a treat in this application.
After removing wallpaper, I tend to do all three of these options, when I’m installing new wallpaper I find using the spray is the best since it seals and preps for new wallcovering the best.
Thanks for the video ! Carpenters glue sound good too. I've been using any concrete bonding weld for 45 years and it's fine .When just the paint peals off patchs it's good, on the edges between old plaster and paint. ((( I also add some in my plaster mix ))) good day sir :)
I have always used a wet kitchen sponge and just lightly dipped it in the mud. Then rubbed it over the fuzzy part of the paper. Basically rubbing in the mud so it soaks into the fuzzy part. I dont leave it thick, more like painting. Then wait till it dries and recoat. It works great for DIY but as a contractor I know you cant wait around alot
I was about to ask about this! We used to spray our pencil drawings with Aqua Net to fix the graphite to the paper. Thanks for answering before I asked!
Thanks for this video! I've learned a huge amount from your videos and drywall no longer scares me. Last night I was trying to figure out why the trim on my study door was all wonky. I ended up taking the trim off and found that the door framing was about 1/2" out of plumb. To get the trim to even nail up to the door jamb, the door installers had to "shave" the drywall, which they did by smashing it into pulp with their framing hammers! I do so wish I could post a picture of that. Just appalling.
Good info. I wish you included Gardz just to see if it failed again on a nasty tear. The thing that continues to confuse me is that on the technical data sheet for Zinsser BIN Shellac primer it states for DAMAGED DRYWALL "Damaged drywall should be repaired prior to priming. Spot prime area of torn drywall facing paper or exposed gypsum core with GardZ® Problem Surface Sealer and then skim coat with drywall mud before priming the total area with B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer." I wonder if this was a generalized outdated blanket statement, if any kind of testing went into this statement, and/or if this is a marketing thing to get consumers to purchase extra products...
I have luck using the Zinnser 1 2 3 water based primer. Just because I always use it for everything and have it on hand. The key , like you say, is getting all the lose paper off. Love your video's.
As a homeowner who likes to DIY I have so much confusion about this topic. I understand that the torn paper brown stuff needs coated/sealed but why doesn’t a clean hole (for example from a drywall anchor) need sealed then also?
Different materials. The hole is just the inner core, the white hard packed powdery stuff (gypsum) - patching compound will join with that provided it’s not loose (a hole still needs the loose stuff knocked or brushed out). The paper is made in several thin layers and absorbs and swells and delaminates with liquid (paint).
I use my finger to spread the wood glue when i need to use it. You can work it into the feather edges and not worry about making a mess around the paper. (& it washes off your hands easily!)
“Do I have to explain everything” “oh yea I guess I do” lol.. that was pretty funny. Thanks for your time and knowledge brother. Very helpful
DIYer here. I’m working on prepping a few rooms for paint and I have found several of your videos extremely helpful. Especially they drywall repair, tape mud videos. Thanks for taking the time to educate 👍🏻
♥️👊
This is the most useful channel, thank you! I have saved so many of your videos.
I’ve been using the wood glue method for a while now. I love it. Works on large and small paper tears equally. Dries fast and sands well (if needed).
The glue makes it bubble.
I'm a contractor, jack of all trades pretty much. I watch these all the time, you've saved me a lot of time and effort, and, by extension, money. Thanks man for making these, it super valuable 🤘🤘🤘
Great to hear!
I used to skate and would watch you all the time. Just became a home owner and looked a video on how to replace door trim. And you popped up. This is awesome
I'm a retired painter and I always used Peel Stop and applied it by brush. It really locked down the edges and penetrated delaminated paper eliminating air pockets. It's thin as water. Dried in 10 or 20 and was water clean-up. You can also use it on exterior surfaces. What else? Oh yes, I don't miss painting. 😊
Thanks for that tip. I will give this a try.
We’ve used wood glue for decades, because it’s handy, clean and saturates into even loose paper you might miss in the prep process. We don’t sand it either. And, it’s great for helping fix deeper holes in conjunction with fiberglass tape. Only thing to watch is drips down the wall as they’re hard to fix afterward.
Do you apply it with a brush?
Do you dilute it?
Two days ago I needed to do this, but I didn't have shellac primer or Super 77, but I did have some white glue. So I mixed 1 part white glue and 2 parts water. It's essentially Gardz, or thinned out wood glue. Anyway, it did a bang up job.
Wood glue worked a treat for me. I must thank you for all of your tips n tricks. im just finishing up skim coating all my bedrooms as they all had wallpaper and made a mess getting the wallpaper off I was thinking I was going to have to pay someone to come do it. But watching your videos has helped me do the job to a high standard thank you once again .uch appreciated 👌👍
Discovered Spray 77 years ago, same thing, used it in a pinch, was already setting cornerbead in prep for tape. I sprayed in on and rubbed it in around the edges especially. Works great! I'm an old retired drywaller and I do enjoy your videos! Keep em' coming!
I assume you are using 77 to set paper bead, correct?
@@als1023 Back in the day, Yes. We would use 77 to set the bead and tape the metal or plastic on. This was common practice in commercial settings but we soon adopted it for resid. applications too
@@briannelson4122 Thanka for your thoughts, much appreciated !
[[*John I&&II.&&&j&98
This was the exact type of repair I needed to see. TY!
I literally was looking for a way to cover torn drywall paper this morning and went out and bought BIN after watching your 3yr old video..worked great! Then this video comes out and I realized I had wood glue on hand. Oh well..discovering BIN will be super useful in the future. Thank you so much for enabling me to fix my own drywall!
Zinnser Gardz has been my go to for doing big drywall rehabs. Its especially good after wallpaper removal. Downside is the 3hr dry time and some people can't stand the smell. I believe Gardz is basically watered down glue. The 77 works great for small areas.
Love it. Once all the loose paper is scraped off, I like to use a sanding sponge lightly on the paper to knock down any little bits left before applying BIN. It really makes a difference. Thanks for the videos.
Bin?
Zinsser BIN shallac based primer. Reduces the chance that the paper will bubble.
I got through maybe 30 seconds of 10 other horrible videos before I fortunately found yours. Thank you so much for not only the information but for the presentation as well. You're my new go to
May be the "silliest" as you said but I'd agree more with what you said about "it's what I have." That's encouraging to the homeowner who has a simple putty or joint knife at home but no set of official "drywall" knives. Thanks for the demonstration of the "glue" options.
A couple coats with Zinsser cover stain spray and you can still brush it out, way faster and less messy. Done it thousands of time with excellent results. Thank you excellent video 👍🏾
I honestly considered wood glue last night, being the only thing I had, but instead I figured I'd put it off until today and look for a video on your channel, and here we are 😂 like you knew me 😂
If you are someone who has other reasons to use shellac primer, don't throw away the brush! Keep a container of denatured alcohol in the truck. You can even let the shellac fully harden in the brush and then just soak it for 30 min or so in the denatured alcohol next time you need it and the shellac dissolves and is ready to use again. I use shellac primer for almost every interior wood scenario, as well as almost every stain blocking primer adventure. The stuff is incredible!
Now that's a great tip!
I found a tip on TH-cam to store the brush and small roller sleeve. Grab a round plastic tub that you buy painters wipes in (Big wipes) but a small bit of methylated spirit in the bottom and keep topped up, and stand your brushes in there. All sealed up and ready to use over and over again. Works a treat 😊
Just got into drywalls And you helped
I thank your for being so helpful. God bless
Liquid masonry bonder. Looks and performs like very thin white glue. Soaks into the paper, it will even flatten and adhere any loose paper. Dries fairly quickly, apply with a cheap brush. Water soluble, easy soap and water clean up. Skim coats without any perceptible change from the surrounding paper face. It will work with ANY amount of paper loss with NO blistering.
Moose milk?
Zinnser Bin brush cleaner works a treat even on hardening Bin Primer brushes, believe it or not. If you leave your brush uncleaned over night and the brush it still a little bit flexible, i.e. crusty on the outside with a gooey milk center, just pop it back in the paint tin for 30 mins and its as good as new. I wrap mine in one of my used vinyl gloves at the end of the day and they are perfect the next morning.
Good tip. I’ll try it.
Murphy's oil soap also works well at removing paint from a brush you forget to clean. Put oil soap in a cup hang brush too paint line and watch it wick the paint out.
It also makes an excellent conditioner for the brushes themselves.. Masters paint brush soap also works well..learned this from a still life oil painter ..
You remind me of me, I can tell you have done this A LOT and you know what works and what doesn't. It is something I can tell. A lot of the videos on this remind me of when I started doing this 20 years ago.
I just did this after watching your video and it works perfectly!! I had the paper coming off on an unpainted, interior garage wall. I followed your instructions exactly!! I have not had any problems when painting. I used the shellac method. Thanks!
I’ve been using Gardz with success but saw this and went with wood glue. You say in a pinch but I say it’s the best! No prep for the product, easy water clean up and I can just use my hands if I want. The dry time was lower than Gardz but higher than Shellac but not by much.
It worked great! Thanks!
Details: Using Gardz and wood glue, in a bathroom environment. Only using 20 minute hot mud. Coated with eggshell/satin and semi-gloss. Full dry and cure times prior to actual bath and shower use. May not be feasible for all but I’ve got 2 full baths.
More details: These people are pros imparting their knowledge, if not a pro, don’t go with 20. 45 at least :-D
I never thought to use carpenters' glue. I've always just used "kilz" in the spray can, and I have never had any issues. Thanks for the video!
I just tried Zissner or something like that oil based primer spray and it developed a lot of tiny air bubbles as it dried. They were easily knocked down with a single pass of the sanding sponge, but I wasn’t expecting that. I’ll try your brand next time.
As have I. Kilz is the 💩.
Former painter here... and we used to use " Kilz" s well for this brown paper spots. Never had an issue either! It's basically a spray shellac with pigment. The pigment is added, basically, so you can see what your spraying. Works great. The only real drawback is that it is a bit spendy, but one large can can last for several jobs and ALWAYS has come on in clutch!
At the big box orange store, a 13oz spray can of Kilz white Oil-Based Interior Primer spray is roughly $11, where a 13oz Spray can of white BIN Shellac Base Primer is $21. I don't doubt the results of this video in showing how good BIN Shellac is, but it is twice the cost of Kilz in my area! Will the spray can of Kilz work just as well?
Just 1 coat?
30+ year journeyman here. I still learn new and useful ideas from your videos. Good job my man. 👍👍
I use white-out, yes you heard that right. the correction fluid you can buy anywhere. It is super cheap , easy to apply and seals it beautifully. Give it a try.
I use peel stop, and it has worked for me. I am on the fence with gardz, and I bought a quart of each to see how they worked. Thanks for the great videos.
Gardz has its uses but it’s failed me on repairs like these. The regular Peel
Stop has yet to fail me, it works.
I use gardz. Takes a good three hours to dry though... The spray 77 is a good idea though for fast drying. Especially if BIN is pretty toxic smelling
Ha! That spray adhesive is the same product I used in art school to seal my pencil and charcoal drawings 😄 Thank you for your tips- I've been scraping away at my bathroom walls and I'm grateful for some guidance!
I just found this video, and wondered if hairspray would work. I've used that before to seal my pastel and pencil drawings for years.
Awesome video, I learned a TON. I did a demo yesterday & removed two mirrors 5’ x 10’ each and now I have to fix all the areas where the glue tore off the paper. I think I’ll use the Glue method, I’ll post my results.
Hey Ben! First off, thank you for all your inspiring and highly educational videos! My wife and I started building a garage with an apartment on top about three years ago, and then started building or house nextdoor about two years ago, and from the start I've always said 'I'm NOT going to be doing any mudding and painting." Well... When we did the apartment we couldn't find any painters who were available so with the help of your amazing videos we taped, mudded and painted and it turned out pretty decent! And now with the house, we got some quotes to get it done but I felt that the prices were too high, so now I've rehearsed by watching your videos again and am about halfway through. It's even slightly enjoyable this time with some more experience under my belt!
Second: living in Sweden and watching your videos, I find some things you do "over there" a lot more cumbersome and was wondering if you could weigh in on why you do things the way you do?
1. Putting drywall horizontally instead of vertically? Here in Sweden we do it the other way around, and use drywall of the same length as the room height. This means we only ever get butt joints when the room is higher than about 3m. This, in my eyes, saves a lot of work cutting drywall and mudding and taping butt joints!
2. Here (and probably in most of Europe?) we use round electrical boxes. This makes it super easy (barely en inconvenience) to make holes for the outlets: just use a hole-in-one where you place one part in the box before you put up the drywall, use a magnetic seeker to find the box, and then use a circular hole saw to drill the hole. Bam! Takes about ten seconds to do a hole, instead of probably at least a minute when you have to measure where the hole is supposed to be and then use the saw to saw out a square opening. Also: the holes tend to get perfectly aligned and rarely need and mudding.
Have a look at this instructional video from a swedish house-company where you can see both 1 and 2 above.
th-cam.com/video/KcPRfKic-Js/w-d-xo.html
There are different building codes in the US. The drywall is installed horizontally and the butt joints are staggered which increases the shear strength of the structure and prevents possible sagging and joint cracking as the framing dries and the structure settles. I've hung boards both ways in different circumstances but I prefer horizontal
That video is pretty amazing - the guy works with his materials at the speed of thought. The transmission from his mind to reality is mesmerizing - wish it allowed comments! Just a joy to watch!
I wondered about using wood glue, got a bathroom where wallpaper removal went off the rails. I've got lots of wood glue, I'm glad to see that work!
I use Roman Pro 999 RX-35 primer.
It works for me, without fail, every single time. Yes, prepping the paper is ultra critical.
Good video.
I’m a painter & work in hospitals, RX-35 is an awesome product, works really well for me every time, it’s my go to for this type of thing
Awesome. Thank you again for being there (years after first watching) when I need a refresher during the project I’m currently finishing!
Watched a few of your videos in the past, needed a refresher to patch up my daughters new bedroom properly, thank you its turning out great so far
Thank you for putting this, and your other well-done videos up for us!
A couple of comments:
1) 77 has wicked solvent fumes and rubbery overspray galore (beware of finished surfaces). Yet it is a great problem solver, so proceed with caution.
2) A professional painter introduced me to generic water-based PVA primer (inexpensive), which he pointed out is the correct primer for exposed wallboard paper because it soaks into the fibers and forms a sealing film that is then paint-ready (I am NOT saying to skip the mud and go straight to paint). It seems that it would be the ideal product in this use, as it's a tinted and thinned out version of the wood glue. It dries really fast, as in about 15 minutes or less depending on the temperature and relative humidity. Have you used it?
BIN works great. I also use concrete bonding adhesive. For cleaning shellac use denatured alcohol or household ammonia. I just recently tried the ammonia and was surprised how well it works.
Larsen weldcrete or plaster weld is the shit!
I'm finishing my basement laundry and your videos have been a great help
I like to use Gardz for large tears, never thought to use super 77. I always carry some 77 with me because its great to help fiber tape stick to the painted areas around a patch
I've used thin layers of thick 5 min hot mud (just before it sets up) after getting loose paper off and never had a problem. I think the most important thing is prep getting that loose paper off and minimizing wet contact. Great info regardless. Thanks!
If you want to clean your brush after applying shellac based primer use alcohol. Alcohol is the solvent for shellac.
Ammonia works wonders on the clean up. With some water
33 yr handyman here - BIN cleans up almost INSTANTLY if you dunk the wet or almost dry brush into ammonia!!! I recommend the double strength janitorial ammonia - cleans Bin brushes magically!!!
I’ve used wood glue and no issues. Depending on the size, if it’s small I just use my finger. No sanding necessary and mud over it.
You always amaze me with your work and you really explain things in your videos. Thanks for sharing.
What!! I thought you had a video using “Roman Rx-35 PRO-999 1 gal. Interior Drywall Repair and Sealer Primer” on raw paper, so I’ve been using it for years.
Thanks for the video, I’ve learned a lot.
You can also use polyurethane (varnish) instead of the Bins primer, has the same chemicals inside (shellac). Only difference is you have to sand it first. I've patched using a homemade hawk made from a scrap of plywood and a plastic knife, all I had on hand. Homemade hawk on a pail worked great as a mixing board too. Impressed by using the wood glue, it would be easy to keep a small bottle in my tool box for such an emergency. Great tips - thanks Ben.
Bins primer may be thinned down with denatured alcohol. In fact you can remove bins primer with denatured alcohol. But it has no effect on polyurethane finishes. Varnishes do not contain denatured alcohol. Non-latex paint and varnish thinners are not alcohol based.
Some water spread with a brush ou the spot then i use a simple sanding sponge to get rid of those weak layers of brun paper... 100% working no more issues to recoat it... 26 EXP on fixing walls... give it a try and thanks for your good teaching
The wood glue or pva glue works great because it absorbs into the paper and binds the pulp… also, compound seems to like sticking to it. Especially if you add a little of the glue to the mud. I use Type I or regular Ehlmer’s All-purpose PVA
Yes. A good PVA works great and is only $10 per gallon.
Hey mate how long would you wait before applying mud to patch?
Bless the youtube algorithm, i needed this in the spring. Thanks
I'm new to DIY and not very strong yet. I tried using a full sized hawk for my ceiling, but I just couldn't hold it up. I found my 12" knife makes the perfect sized 'hawk' to use with my 10" knife, which is the biggest my wrists and child-sized hands can manage right now. This video was helpful. I took down some wire closet shelving. It was put up when the paint was still a bit wet, so when I took it down it peeled off some paint and paper.
Had some leftover Minwax clear shellac and tried it out on some torn paper in my bathroom remodel. Works great, however, as a comment below said the VOC was really strong. Had to close the door and open a window so that is one drawback but it does save you from having to go buy a big can that you will never use it all up.
As an artist, I'm wondering if standard hairspray would work to seal the drywall. I've used hairspray to seal pastel drawings, and it works very well.
The new kids won't know why you continue to eyeball your knives..to find which way the corners curve...a very helpful tip I learned from you..and I worked for a finisher/painter when I was in school, no one told me this!
I'm old now..😀
Here is an extra tip about the orientation of your knife. Make a noticeable notch on the handle where your hand meets the area where the handle joins the actual blade. That way; you will FEEL that spot every time you grab the knife and instinctively know how to hold it, without ever having to look at it again.
FYI: shellac is soluble with alcohol. You should be able to clean your brush with denatured alcohol, even a dried brush.
You can use latex caulk in place of wood glue...Slightly watered down then apply with a paint brush. Also Zinsser 123 latex primer works great.
I used the paint method after removing 3 mirrors. Worked great. Thank you.
Used the Super 77 trick yesterday. Worked like charm!!!
I always use Zinsser Low Odour Oil primer. Always worked fine so far... :)
I been a Fan for years.. Even learned some skating skills as well. Thank you for your videos
I use the wood glue for these type of repairs, since I always have it on hand. I dilute it with water 50/50.
Thanks!
Just lay drywall tape down on it. Works every time . Been using this method 30 plus years. Zero bubbles.
I prefer regular Elmer’s All-purpose glue… I brush it on. And I think mud adheres very well to it. Especially if you add a touch of glue to your first coat of mud…. As for BIN, no need to throw out tools or brushes. Denatured alcohol cleans it up lickity-split. Even after it’s dry.
How fast does the glue take to dry before mudding over
So does ammonia
I was going to comment on the denatured alcohol, it really does work, even with other painting tools. Its also good if you get paint on carpet, since the alcohol evaporates quickly, leaving no paint and no smell.
@@gamesforyoutwo I agree but be CAREFUL, it can break down dye used for some colors in carpeting.
wow cool
I've had success with plain blonde/clear shellac, since I always have it in my shop, anyway. I thin the stuff in the can by 50% with alcohol so that it can really penetrate the paper and stick everything down, and it dries even quicker. Since I use shellac often, I just clean the brush with alcohol, then hot water. One nice thing about shellac, it doesn't matter if you've let the brush dry and harden, alcohol will always dissolve and clean it.
And in a pinch clear ammonia works just as good.
@@ryane6719 Thanks. I never knew ammonia was a solvent for shellac.
@@fxm5715 when we spray cabinetry in the field sometimes we have to use it to flush the sprayers. An old timer showed me years ago, stinks though 😂
Very helpful; just wondering did you say you used 20 minute mud then covered with all purpose? When I go to the hardware store, I never know which product to choose, too many options,
You don’t have to throw your brush out!! Use ammonia as the cleaner, I promise you, if you work fast and have the ammonia handy once you are done, you can clean your brush out. It takes a few rinses, but add like one cup of ammonia to an empty coffee can full of water and it will rinse out. Nice clean brush.
Yup! I've used ammonia to clean up the Bin shellac for years. Works amazing.
But God the smell....
My favorite part of this comment is the ending “nice clean brush” hahaha made me reminisce what I say when I can successfully clean my brush quickly enough🤣
I always use denatured alcohol to clean shellac. Not available in some places probably.
I too clean shellac with denatured alcohol.
Shellac Based BIN primer does clean up with straight ammonia. I have cleaned brushes out several times with this.
What mud are you using? And is the final coat standard drywall spackle?
Hey Vancouver,
Been an avid follower for years now. You honestly were the reason I was able to start renovations business and make drywall/finishing make sense. When it comes to these paper tears(I haven’t finished the video yet so I could get this thought out before the acorn rolls away) I usually scrape the loose crummies and papers off with my taping knife and do a real tight skim coat of quickset(easy sand 45-90 or durabond 45-90 rarely would I use the durabond unless there is a hole as well. But I add blue cap titebond to my mud with 1 drop of regular dawn. It works like a charm for me but I have found that if your mud isn’t creamy enough like the perfect pancake mix consistency and you can’t get that really tight skim this method won’t work. Is this method okay in your mind?
you try Kilz sprsy primer. or try laquar base primer .. In pinch try using tight wipe of body filler .. Then apply spack when dry
That is what you consider a crusty old brush on its last legs? Well, dear sir, you must be accustomed to a certain standard of living that has alluded the likes of me, my lord. Very good video, as usual. I've found Cover Stain works a treat in this application.
Ben, I sometimes use the lid of the can for a quick tray, just to even out the product unto the roller a little.
After removing wallpaper, I tend to do all three of these options, when I’m installing new wallpaper I find using the spray is the best since it seals and preps for new wallcovering the best.
Thanks for the video ! Carpenters glue sound good too. I've been using any concrete bonding weld for 45 years and it's fine .When just the paint peals off patchs it's good, on the edges between old plaster and paint. ((( I also add some in my plaster mix ))) good day sir :)
Zinsser Gardz works exceptionally well and it's water based.
I’ve used Zinsser Peel Stop and that worked great.
I have always used a wet kitchen sponge and just lightly dipped it in the mud. Then rubbed it over the fuzzy part of the paper. Basically rubbing in the mud so it soaks into the fuzzy part. I dont leave it thick, more like painting. Then wait till it dries and recoat.
It works great for DIY but as a contractor I know you cant wait around alot
I just had to reference your original video yesterday so this is awesome to learn 2 more methods. Thanks!
I have plaster walls in my 1960's home. Can I follow this same process? Thx! Good video's
Aqua Net Hair spray has never failed me in 21yrs.
Lol it never failed me in the 80s either
Mmm. The smell of Aqua Net! It instantly triggers memories of my childhood and youth. Some pure, some not so pure, but all wonderful!
😮 Amazing.
That's a neat idea
I was about to ask about this! We used to spray our pencil drawings with Aqua Net to fix the graphite to the paper. Thanks for answering before I asked!
I learned that putting mesh tape and a thin coat of quickset works good too haven’t noticed any issues
Thanks to your videos I been learning how fix this type a problem!!! You the best
Thanks for this video! I've learned a huge amount from your videos and drywall no longer scares me. Last night I was trying to figure out why the trim on my study door was all wonky. I ended up taking the trim off and found that the door framing was about 1/2" out of plumb. To get the trim to even nail up to the door jamb, the door installers had to "shave" the drywall, which they did by smashing it into pulp with their framing hammers! I do so wish I could post a picture of that. Just appalling.
Good info. I wish you included Gardz just to see if it failed again on a nasty tear. The thing that continues to confuse me is that on the technical data sheet for Zinsser BIN Shellac primer it states for DAMAGED DRYWALL "Damaged drywall should be repaired prior to priming. Spot
prime area of torn drywall facing paper or exposed gypsum core with GardZ® Problem Surface Sealer and then skim coat with drywall mud before priming the total area with B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer." I wonder if this was a generalized outdated blanket statement, if any kind of testing went into this statement, and/or if this is a marketing thing to get consumers to purchase extra products...
21:44 best part ever, blister doesnt show under 1/8 skim on top, thanks for that!
BIN all day. Always worth having a tin its got soooo many uses. And it works !
Man your videos are SO informative. Thank you for making them for us!!
I have luck using the Zinnser 1 2 3 water based primer. Just because I always use it for everything and have it on hand. The key , like you say, is getting all the lose paper off. Love your video's.
So water based will work?I have the kilz water based and wasn’t sure if I needed oil based
As a homeowner who likes to DIY I have so much confusion about this topic. I understand that the torn paper brown stuff needs coated/sealed but why doesn’t a clean hole (for example from a drywall anchor) need sealed then also?
Different materials. The hole is just the inner core, the white hard packed powdery stuff (gypsum) - patching compound will join with that provided it’s not loose (a hole still needs the loose stuff knocked or brushed out). The paper is made in several thin layers and absorbs and swells and delaminates with liquid (paint).
Imagine being so good at your job that even when you try to do something badly for illustrative purposes, it still ends up in good shape 🧐.
I've used jb weld liquid hardener with success. But also have used straight 20 min hot mud with luck on smaller patches.
Wish i saw this video before i went after my wall! Great video!
I use my finger to spread the wood glue when i need to use it. You can work it into the feather edges and not worry about making a mess around the paper. (& it washes off your hands easily!)
Shellek is fantastic, I use it on everything. Great for MDF as well.
I use a palm sander after scraping the loose stuff.. it works very good b4 applying oil based
Concrete glue, can be used for certain applications in drywall repair.. never used it for this, but i bet it would work good..
I like the spray BIN way better, I love it and never had an issue and you dont need to chuck the can after one use.
valuable information. thanks, especially for the warning to press the shellac into the repair when using the spray shellac