Very impressive! Detailed Step. I am about to undergo this procedure though I have done it a dozen times before with different model of vehicles, this video will help. Thank you creators! I hope you make a million:) P.S. to other comments, yes there are always rusty old bushing bolts that don't come out and entire components need replacing. I like this video because it shows you how the procedure should be done. Will save an hour or two from either not removing the required parts, or from removing parts that are not required to be removed. Even included torque settings, brilliant! Thumbs Up!
Warning for anyone who wants to do this job, 4:47 see how by using the axle bolt to force the retaining clip in it can bite bits of the retaining clip off as seen in the close up of the retain clip, if you do not thoroughly clean all the old grease and and inspect the housing, any metal bits left in the housing can damage the ball bearings and housing of the joint which will make noise and will need the whole joint replacing. So make sure no metal bits, clean and inspect the old joint thoroughly. Also put the majority of the grease in between the ball bearing and joint housing, not in boot as it won't be used to lubricate.
That cv joint was way undergreased. Some tips on the upper arms removal would have been helpful if the bolt is seized which it normally is 99% of the time.
there is a specialized fork for removing suspension ball joints and tie rod ends, it looks like a giant tuning fork 😂, some antisieze spray and prying will get it out
Yes that bolt is always stuck. It is better to loosen only the outer tie rod to get axes to remove the cv joint. If the upper bolt needs to be removed, for example to change the control arms: use a lot of penetrating oil, remove the nut and drive the bolt back and forth with an impact until the bolt loosens.
Thank you for following our channel. They spray meticulous spray so that the spare part would sit well and in the future would not become attached and it could be easily removed in the event of a breakdown. AUTODOC
I don't know what I did wrong. I impacted the bolt in to separate the cvj and it did not come apart and now the bolt got stuck when u impacted it out. Wtf?
If the removed bolt isn't long enough to reach the end of the stub axle, it will simply tighten against the cv joint. Do not use the impact gun to tighten it against the cv joint! Remove the bolt, and insert a 4" long, 1/2" diameter steel rod. You can sacrifice an old 3/8" ratchet extension if you don't have anything else. You are going to run that steel rod through the CV joint, and into the stub axle about 2", leaving the same amount protruding into the CV joint. That will be plenty for the removed wheel bolt to push against. Note!!! Once you've sent that steel rod into the CV joint, you're committed to removing the cv joint. Once you've got something for the bolt to push against, you should be able to literally spin the bolt with your fingers to back the cv joint off the circlip. No need to use an impact.
@@vandalsgarage Thanks. I'll do that in the future. I'm pretty sure the bolt was long enough. At least the cv/axle I damaged was an aftermarket. I installed a rebuilt OE axle in its place. Thank you for the reply.
![How to change cv boot on AUDI A4 B5 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/99FhIooCmxE/mqdefault.jpg)
Very impressive! Detailed Step. I am about to undergo this procedure though I have done it a dozen times before with different model of vehicles, this video will help. Thank you creators! I hope you make a million:) P.S. to other comments, yes there are always rusty old bushing bolts that don't come out and entire components need replacing. I like this video because it shows you how the procedure should be done. Will save an hour or two from either not removing the required parts, or from removing parts that are not required to be removed. Even included torque settings, brilliant! Thumbs Up!
Thank you for your feedback! We are pleased to know that our video was helpful for you.
Warning for anyone who wants to do this job, 4:47 see how by using the axle bolt to force the retaining clip in it can bite bits of the retaining clip off as seen in the close up of the retain clip, if you do not thoroughly clean all the old grease and and inspect the housing, any metal bits left in the housing can damage the ball bearings and housing of the joint which will make noise and will need the whole joint replacing. So make sure no metal bits, clean and inspect the old joint thoroughly.
Also put the majority of the grease in between the ball bearing and joint housing, not in boot as it won't be used to lubricate.
Good job. Nice and clean workmanship!
Outstanding job. Great video
Looking at the old CV joint at 4:17 was the plastic spacer and metal washer the right way around?
Yes, everything is installed correctly.
I’d be putting the rest of the grease into the rubber boot
Good 👍👍👍🏅
In the required tools list at the beginning it says a Tap Wrench is required but I cannot see when he uses it. Was this an error in the listing?
Starting at 9:42 you can see where the mechanic used a wrench.
Great video 👍
That cv joint was way undergreased. Some tips on the upper arms removal would have been helpful if the bolt is seized which it normally is 99% of the time.
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers.
AUTODOC
Just been through that pinch bolt nightmare myself! Had to take the hub of completely.
there is a specialized fork for removing suspension ball joints and tie rod ends, it looks like a giant tuning fork 😂, some antisieze spray and prying will get it out
Yes that bolt is always stuck. It is better to loosen only the outer tie rod to get axes to remove the cv joint. If the upper bolt needs to be removed, for example to change the control arms: use a lot of penetrating oil, remove the nut and drive the bolt back and forth with an impact until the bolt loosens.
mine broke, had to drill it out. took way longer than i care to admit. if i do this job i wil remove the lower arms instead.
What's the cost for cv joint
For what reason do they spray that bronze color on the screws and the part?
Thank you for following our channel.
They spray meticulous spray so that the spare part would sit well and in the future would not become attached and it could be easily removed in the event of a breakdown.
AUTODOC
Copper grease is an anti seize, it will help prevent things from seizing together if the part needs to be taken apart in the future.
Nice
😮😮 super ❤️❤️🤍🖤
Same Tutorial for A4 B8 ?
Thanks for your feedback! Please clarify or rephrase your question.
I don't know what I did wrong. I impacted the bolt in to separate the cvj and it did not come apart and now the bolt got stuck when u impacted it out. Wtf?
We do not have such information, we recommend that you consult your mechanic.
@@autodocuk I'll use a press to get the cvj apart from now on. I feel I had bad luck on this joint
If the removed bolt isn't long enough to reach the end of the stub axle, it will simply tighten against the cv joint. Do not use the impact gun to tighten it against the cv joint! Remove the bolt, and insert a 4" long, 1/2" diameter steel rod. You can sacrifice an old 3/8" ratchet extension if you don't have anything else. You are going to run that steel rod through the CV joint, and into the stub axle about 2", leaving the same amount protruding into the CV joint. That will be plenty for the removed wheel bolt to push against. Note!!! Once you've sent that steel rod into the CV joint, you're committed to removing the cv joint. Once you've got something for the bolt to push against, you should be able to literally spin the bolt with your fingers to back the cv joint off the circlip. No need to use an impact.
@@vandalsgarage Thanks. I'll do that in the future. I'm pretty sure the bolt was long enough. At least the cv/axle I damaged was an aftermarket. I installed a rebuilt OE axle in its place. Thank you for the reply.
💓💓💓💓💓💓
Nice