Thank you for the video. I watched your video for confirmation of how to get this done. I spent $235 for both arms, the dealership wanted to charge $650 for just the Right Arm and $850 installed. Good stuff.
Good Video..completed the replacement of my 2012 ML350 Lift gate struts in less than an hour. The release pins were a little different, however the overall mechanics with a bit of common sence made it pretty simple. Thank you for saving me a bundle,$$$$$ .
This very much helped me out decide if I should buy the motor replacement. Most other videos the lift gate is not working at all. Mine currently wont open unless I give it a slight pull or only if it’s on an incline. Was this a Genuine Mercedes part or one of the off brands like Tuff or Uro?
This part was purchased from Mercedes, so it a genuine Mercedes part. I am a fan of aftermarket parts, mainly because Mercedes, like all car manufacturers, outsource a majority of their parts. As an example with Mercedes, I replaced the compressor (see my compressor video). They use a Besco air compressor. There were tow labels on the compressor, one said Besco, Made in Japan and the second label said Mercedes, Made in Germany. Mercedes used Besco compressors but then slapped a Mercedes label on it. Not over top, but underneath. So if an aftermarket Lift-gate motor is available at a lower cost, I'd say use it. If you do find and use an aftermarket motor that is 100% compatible, please come back and post a link so others can benefit. Thanks for the comment.
Just want to give a warning that these struts could “explode” when you take them off…Mine exploded today when I was replacing them, seems like the cap could not hold the tension of the spring inside. Almost got killed…beware
Yep just happened to me, the top ends are just weak plastic threads so when I took it off the tailgate it shot right at my nuts lmao. Very scary, at least it works now
@zhuideng @tylerrobbins9126 dang. getting ready to do this job on a 2017 gle, so would you recommend taking the top part out first, so if they blow, they blow upwards ?
@@jamestorres2489 I took the top out first and it didn’t help, I got the top part out and the spring pressure pushed it into the body, when I took the bottom out it just exploded
@@amykarr2812 Google the part number and find the cheapest place. It’s going to be a dealer, but dealers don’t all charge the same amount. My local dealer charges over twice the amount for parts as another dealer just 60 miles away. Mine I got from the Orlando dealer and had it shipped. Got it the next day. My local dealer in Melbourne is horrible for pricing.
@@amykarr2812 Google the part number I provided. You’ll get it from a dealer, but all dealers don’t charge the same amount The Melbourne Fl dealer is almost 3x that of the Orlando dealer (60 miles away). I ordered it from Orlando and had it shipped. I got it the next day.
In my case, I could hear the motor grinding and straining. You could hook an OBD and see if the module reports a fault. You could also gain access to the connectors and hook up a Volt meter between the control module and motor. When it’s activated, do you get the voltage reading?
This is a good video, but it’s not ‘replacing the lift gate motor’ as stated in the title. The ‘ lift gate motor’ itself is down in the spare tire compartment.
For a 2016 GLE W166, you are not correct. On the driver's side, it is merely a strut. But on the passenger side, this strut has a spindle motor in the strut. In fact, when you order the part, it is ordered as "lift gate motor". There is no motor in the spare tire compartment (and I have completely removed the spare tire compartment to change rear shocks). The only things connecting the rear tailgate to the car are 1) two hinges at the top, 2) the latch on the bottom, 3) the left passive strut, and 4) the right lift gate motor. The motor (as shown) is connected to a control box by the wire (as shown) on the right side under the trim. You are either thinking of the electric control box or a vehicle other than the W166 Mercedes.
Thank you for the video. I watched your video for confirmation of how to get this done. I spent $235 for both arms, the dealership wanted to charge $650 for just the Right Arm and $850 installed. Good stuff.
Great. It's always nice to get this feedback. Glad it saved you $$$$.
Good Video..completed the replacement of my 2012 ML350 Lift gate struts in less than an hour. The release pins were a little different, however the overall mechanics with a bit of common sence made it pretty simple. Thank you for saving me a bundle,$$$$$ .
Glad it helped.
Great video. Replaced mine in < 1 hour as instructed. 👍
Great. Good feeling, isn't it? and cheaper than the dealer.
Thanks for your video!
You’re welcome. Hope it helped.
This very much helped me out decide if I should buy the motor replacement. Most other videos the lift gate is not working at all. Mine currently wont open unless I give it a slight pull or only if it’s on an incline. Was this a Genuine Mercedes part or one of the off brands like Tuff or Uro?
This part was purchased from Mercedes, so it a genuine Mercedes part. I am a fan of aftermarket parts, mainly because Mercedes, like all car manufacturers, outsource a majority of their parts. As an example with Mercedes, I replaced the compressor (see my compressor video). They use a Besco air compressor. There were tow labels on the compressor, one said Besco, Made in Japan and the second label said Mercedes, Made in Germany. Mercedes used Besco compressors but then slapped a Mercedes label on it. Not over top, but underneath. So if an aftermarket Lift-gate motor is available at a lower cost, I'd say use it. If you do find and use an aftermarket motor that is 100% compatible, please come back and post a link so others can benefit. Thanks for the comment.
Just want to give a warning that these struts could “explode” when you take them off…Mine exploded today when I was replacing them, seems like the cap could not hold the tension of the spring inside. Almost got killed…beware
Yep just happened to me, the top ends are just weak plastic threads so when I took it off the tailgate it shot right at my nuts lmao. Very scary, at least it works now
@zhuideng @tylerrobbins9126 dang. getting ready to do this job on a 2017 gle, so would you recommend taking the top part out first, so if they blow, they blow upwards ?
@@jamestorres2489 I took the top out first and it didn’t help, I got the top part out and the spring pressure pushed it into the body, when I took the bottom out it just exploded
Where do you buy the part
@@amykarr2812 Google the part number and find the cheapest place. It’s going to be a dealer, but dealers don’t all charge the same amount. My local dealer charges over twice the amount for parts as another dealer just 60 miles away. Mine I got from the Orlando dealer and had it shipped. Got it the next day. My local dealer in Melbourne is horrible for pricing.
@@amykarr2812 Google the part number I provided. You’ll get it from a dealer, but all dealers don’t charge the same amount The Melbourne Fl dealer is almost 3x that of the Orlando dealer (60 miles away). I ordered it from Orlando and had it shipped. I got it the next day.
Nice Video
How I know with is REAR TRUNK LEFT & RIGHT ELECTRIC SHOCK ASSIST SET or Rear Trunk LIFTGATE TAILGATE CONTROL MODULE ?
In my case, I could hear the motor grinding and straining. You could hook an OBD and see if the module reports a fault. You could also gain access to the connectors and hook up a Volt meter between the control module and motor. When it’s activated, do you get the voltage reading?
This is a good video, but it’s not ‘replacing the lift gate motor’ as stated in the title. The ‘ lift gate motor’ itself is down in the spare tire compartment.
For a 2016 GLE W166, you are not correct. On the driver's side, it is merely a strut. But on the passenger side, this strut has a spindle motor in the strut. In fact, when you order the part, it is ordered as "lift gate motor". There is no motor in the spare tire compartment (and I have completely removed the spare tire compartment to change rear shocks). The only things connecting the rear tailgate to the car are 1) two hinges at the top, 2) the latch on the bottom, 3) the left passive strut, and 4) the right lift gate motor. The motor (as shown) is connected to a control box by the wire (as shown) on the right side under the trim. You are either thinking of the electric control box or a vehicle other than the W166 Mercedes.
Information was great, but very sloppy filming and hard to follow