I did this a couple of years back. Your video was spot on, thank you for sharing. For anyone that is going to be doing this, get yourself a chemical strayer, take the nozzle off of the end of the wand and use that to fill the fluid. It will save you time and hand cramps over using the small quart pump shown here.
Per ZF instructions after you install the new pan and fill you are supposed to put in drive run up to 2000 RPM for 5 seconds brake neutral for 5 seconds reverse run up to 2000 RPM then park you have a window to add fluid between 86 to 122 degrease then you remove the fill cap and add fluid and let it drain until it drips not a steady run like you did. You want to make sure you run through the gears to remove the air in trans. This is why all 4 wheels must be off the ground and level. If you don't run through the gears you will short-fill the transmission very important steps. The best time of year to change the fluid is in winter or at least no higher than 75 degrees so you have time to run through the gears if it's 90 or more degrees to start you run the chance to exceed the temperature to fill due to the expansion of the fluid. I also replaced the pan with a PPE pan adds 2 extra quarts of fluid and you can replace the filter only the next fluid change for $25 Vs buying another cover. This job requires a lot of steps not unlike the old days of drain and fill but the dealer charges $1200 to change the trans fluid. I also used Amsoil fuel-efficient transmission fluid you will notice 2 gear shifts much smoother. Great video on set up
@@stevehardeman7209 Great its been 20,000 all good use the blue fuel-efficient trans fluid but factory ZF 8 speed is good I personally like the Amsoil Blue
Great video - thanks for all the effort, you did an awesome job covering everything. It's a badge of honor to complete this task (those cross members seem like they were designed to block you from removing/installing the pan bolts). I have done it twice in the last 3 weeks. Why twice? I bought a pan off amazon for $44 instead of going OEM (OEM was $300). That said, I am not 100% sure it was the Amazon pan after replacing it with the OEM pan. You will notice if you watch enough videos people mention one bolt is hard to remove. I ran into the same issue. It was the back corner bolt on the drivers side. Since the Amazon pan leaked there after the first try (in that area only), and I had carefully inspected that pan and thoroughly cleaned/inspected the transmission mating surface before I installed it, I was very careful when I removed it so I cold try to figure out what happened (figured it was the pan or the spacer insert depths). I inspected the threads on that bolt and they were a little pulled, close to the shoulder. Before installing the new pan, I took one of the other bolts and threaded it in that hole with a little D40 to chase the threads (no pan installed). But what surprised me was that it would bottom out very early and looked like it would not make full contact with the pan when it bottomed out. So I screwed the same bolt into almost all of the other holes (some are hard to reach so I did not test them all). All the holes I tested you could screw the bolt all the way to the surface of the transmission. Not wanting to risk another $100 worth of tranny fluid, I took one of the new bolts, found a nut that matched, screwed it on about a 1/8" and cut the top off. Then cleaned it up with a file and unscrewed the nut (to chase the cut threads). When I re-installed the pan, that bolt went in like butter (just like all the others). I would wish I would have saved the bolts from the first swap (you get new ones with the pan) so I could check all of them to make sure they were the same length. I think that back corner one is shorter and the replacement pans are all coming with the same length bolts - and that back drivers side corner one needs to be a little shorter. I could be wrong, but remember this post if you find that bolt is hard to back out. If you end up with a leak after you are all done (mine was small, took a few weeks before I started noticing it on the garage floor) you are not going to be very happy about doing this job again. Once is enough :) You covered all of this in the video, but typed it out in case someone wants to print it out before they start. Skid plate bolts (4 of them) are 13mm. Fill plug is 8mm, drain plug (if you have one) is 10mm, pan bolts are Tx40, torque on the pan bolts is 10nm or 89 inch lbs. Sequence for filling is - install pan, fill till it runs out of the fill port (~2.5 quarts) don't wait for it to stop once it is dripping, it'll need more, loosely reinstall the fill plug. From here here on out, be careful not to burn your hand/arm on the exhaust near the fill plug (the home depot weed sprayer with the tip removed works great for this). Start the car, keep it running, pull the fill plug again and fill it till it starts to drip...~ 2 quarts, loosely reinstall the fill plug. Then get in the car, shut stability control off, apply the brake and put it in reverse for 5 seconds, keep the brake applied, shift to drive and wait 5 seconds, take your foot off brake and and slowly accelerate to 8-9 mph until the car shifts into second (or just use sport mode and force it into 2nd) hold it for 5 seconds in 2nd, slowly brake, shift to neutral, rev the engine to 2,000 rpm and hold for 5 seconds, then let it come back to idle (keep it running) and put it in park. Go back under and pull the fill plug and either let it drain until it is a slow drip or fill it until it starts to drip. Put the drain plug back in, shut the car off, reinstall the jack skid plate, pull it off the jack stands and go enjoy a beer while you clean up the shop. Cheers!
Very nice. I did to my bmw in 2020 (it's almost time again), really it's a pretty straightforward process, assuring that you have a couple of tools. And you'll save a ton of cash and extend the life of your transmission...
Great video on the ZF transmission. Doesn't seem to bad and I think if you measure what you take out like you did that gives you a good idea of what needs to go back in.
Such a good video! Solid content! I picked up a new filter from the dealer yesterday and got the fluid from Amazon the other day. Tackling this project today, might throw in plugs and the oil filter housing as well. Sigh... lol projects that need to be done.
Thanks for such a detailed video!! I am about to change the "lifetime" fluid in my 2015. I always like to watch a few videos beforehand, in the is case I just needed one... Yours!! Thanks
I ended up using the Dorman transmission pan since AutoZone was having a deal... unfortunately it didn't fit up quite like OEM (Bolt holes were aligned - but it was not seated flush on all sides when I fit it up by hand) but I still went through with completing the installation. It started leaking after a few days. I will be replacing it again but OEM this time... TL:DR - Get the OEM pan... not aftermarket.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE i was gonna say if you spent 350 in oem parts... And the dealership wanted 600... Thats 250 dollars in labor.. not too bad to just have them do it since most people dont have the garage..jacks....stands..or tools... But if its 1k dollars... Then doing it myself would probably be the way to go. Thanks again
This is a really great video with detailed explanation. If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a very long time it would be better to get the pan with the drain plug for future service.
Dealership quoted me 490 for the service without a new pan. They are charging me for 7 quarts of fluid. 1.4 hours of labor. Has me wondering what kind of procedure they are planning on following lol. I might try it myself. Thanks for the video !
I'm hoping to do the same in the near future so many thanks for making this video. Your fill procedure was spot on and you took good care to get it right. The amount you put in compared to the amount that came out also balanced. What puzzles me is when you first took the plug out there was quite a gush of fluid kind of like it was overfilled. Is it correct to assume that this was because the engine wasn't running. When running that "excess" fluid would be circulating throughout the transmission. Would this assumption be correct?
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee, at 103k, was tempted to try this as it is a $650.00 charge at the Stealership! The part alone are about $400.00 dollars! So I sucked it up and paid! We have a lifetime warranty and didn’t want to risk any denial of a claim ! Great video , thanks for your work!
Thanks for the great video, this gives me the confidence to try it, though I don't have a way to get the car up on jack stands so the wheels are spinning free. I wouldn't think that would be an absolute requirement. One that that deters me a bit is those three bolts that look really hard to reach that are under the cross member thing. It actually looks like there are holes in the crossmember that align with where the three bolts are to aid in installing the bolts, is that possibly what those three holes are for?
I measured mine and i pulled out 5.5 qts and I'm at 4 in. Could it have been overfull? I'm letting it sit over night and I'll check/add more tomorrow. Be sure sure and turn off traction control! It shifted into 2nd nice and smooth, I didn't do 5 seconds, I'll do that tomorrow. I can hear the solinoids activating just fine. Thank you for the well done video!
@@TheCybercrash yep, the next morning I got back down there and added another 1.55 qts totaling 5.5 in just as I was hitting the end of what I had I saw the drip start. I processed the above procedure and it's done now. I took the oil to my local shop for their container and it was real dirty, not burned or anything like that, just filthy and needed to be changed.
Excellent video. Makes my F350 look easy. I am guessing, this is the wifes vehicle? Is that the Trailhawk, We got the Trailhawk, really like it, but am dreading when something goes wrong with the variable suspension. Got about 80k on ours, and one of the front rotors warped really bad, started squueking on a road trip, got both rotors turned, brakes are pretty straight forward except for the ridiculous 11mm(7/16) hex needed and the E bolts. I think i am going to invent a way to check the transmission fluid, i dont know something like an oil dipstick, I'll make millions! Thanks again, GOD bless, JESUS is King.
Had my girl call the local transmission shop about doing this job. The guy talked to his distributor and a couple other people and they all said these transmission are designed to go 140k miles whether the fluid and filter are changed or not it’s not gonna last much longer than that. His advise was to trade it in when it hits 120k. He said he’d do it if we want to but it’s not gonna make a difference.
I think it all depends on how the vehicle has been driven. I disagree with some of that because I’ve seen these transmissions with well over 140k miles especially ones that have had the fluid serviced in the past.
I'm going to change the fluid and filter on my 2016 Grand Cherokee Laredo. I didn't like the answer I received from 3 Mopar dealerships near me; "forever fluid " response. Then the quote for the job: I'm not buying another Jeep, lol😂 I currently have 241,600 miles on mine. Maintenance is very important for longevity. Once again, your video was awesome, and you made this look much easier to do than others I've seen, including one guy removing motor mounts and jacking up the engine to get to the bolts above the crossmember😂😂😂. I just received my suspension lift kit from Rough Country, I can't wait to put it on! Thanks for another great video!!
@@mikebrown8065 Hi, great, and how did it go with the transmission after the oil and filter change? Everything okay? It would be important to know your experience with this.
8 litros es la cantidad que le cabe a la transmisión si fueras a reemplazar todo el fluido. Con éste método se saca bastante pero tengo entendido que siempre se queda fluido en el sistema.
Great video. One question, I don't know the answer, so not being a smart a**. Should you not have leveled the transmission, instead of the vehicle? The trans does not sit level with the body of the Jeep. Thanks for the video
You can do it either way really is not going to make much of a difference because if you take it to the dealership they will put it up on the rack which makes the vehicle level.
I thought about this as well, as it sits the transmission is tilting towards the back fill plug and might not be allowing the proper amount of fluid in.
I leveled the body and drained 6.4 quarts, out of the original pan that had the pan drain plug. Installed new pan and could only get 4 quarts back in, after running several start/run procedures. Then I leveled the transmission, and the remaining went in with no issue. So I replaced the exact amount that I took out. Every video shows leveling the body, but so many comments saying the same thing, “won’t hold the amount that came out”. Im not a mechanic, so please correct me if im wrong!
@@BrianPardue-t1u you're wrong. I pulled out 5.7 quarts. I thought I could only get 4 in. I let it sit over night, I called ZF themselves and they said level the vehicle and not the pan. So, I kept the vehicle level, started it up, ran through the systems shifting again, you don't have to spin the tires when shifting into 2nd! You can just manual shift while holding the brakes! (This is what ZF told me, they said it's actually bad to spin the tires) I then went back down and added another quart, it was getting a little warm, shut it down. Came back in a few hours and did the exact same procedure and got almost another qt in and it began to drip. So, I put back in exactly what I pulled out. Praise Jesus! I was praying the whole way through this process. Installed the plug, made it good n tight, installed the cover, took it for a spin and all is good. No shifting issues at all, totally smooth, everything running as it should and completely happy with it.
Should you pre soak the new filter to ensure that what you took out is what you are putting in? I imagine that the filter soaks up a good amount of fluid.
Great video… on another note. Do you happen to know why the water pumps constantly fail on these? Already done 3, all leak at the weep plug. 3 different brands used. Had to be a pressure issue.
So when refilling how to do you fill it to the maximum? Cause once you refill and it doesn’t spill out like it originally did, doesn’t it mean your under the amount and need more?
Cough cough... mine has 130k on it and to my knowledge the trans fluid hasn't been changed. Is it worth it or should I just drive it until it's done and save up for a trans replacement here in x amount of months?
Thanks for this video! FCA claims lifetime oil, but did you notice any malfunctions on the transmission behavior that pushed you to change the oil ? I have a 2018 GC 3.0 Diesel and it is 110k miles now. I recently noticed a malfunction when driving at high speed: the car speed is blocked at 185 km/h, the gear speed stays on the 7th gear and does not shift the 8th. Do you think this may have something to do with oil state ? Thank you
They claim it’s lifetime fluid but I have a hard time believing that. No issues with the transmission owner just wanted to keep up on the maintenance. As for the transmission staying in 7th and not going into 8th I have heard there was a tsb on this and some of the Jeep GC got a reflash.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you ! I did not find this TSB, but when I will perform the oil change, the dealer will do something on the TCM in order to reset the software to take into consideration the fact the oil is new. I hope this will solve the 8th gear engaging issue.
ZF as an OEM recommands the partially change of the fluid every 80 to 120.000 km depending on your drive style. The dealer will not recognize your new oil condition in the gear box.
Great video & explained. BUT how when you removed the “refill plug” a bunch came out. So that means when you refill it you just refilling it until it drips out BUT when you removed the plug literally almost a quart came out. I need answers lol
When you refill it the engine has to be running to get the proper level and the fluid has to be within certain temperature range. It's all in the video. When he removed the fill plug the engine wasn't running and no fluid was circulating in the system, so a lot more was just sitting in the pan. To avoid the fluid mess my suggestion in a previous comment was to just loosen the fill plug to see that it could be removed if necessary and then remove the drain plug.
My question is a simple one if you measure the exact amount of fluid that came out of the transmission and you put the same exact amount of fluid back why would all those procedures be even necessary?
Great video, question for you, I have a 2018 chrysler 300 awd with 45k on it, do you think it would ok to just change the fluid and not the filter since it has low miles? Thank for the reply back
Yeah you don’t have to change the filter every time you can just do the fluid. My daughter has a 2016 300 awd with 65k so I might be tackling this job soon and a few others which I’ll probably record.
Did you get the instructions with the new pan? I’m about to this to our 2014 GC Overland. I’m reading something about putting the vehicle in “Jack mode” because of the air ride. How are you supposed to run in like that?
No it did not come with an instructions, if you have air ride suspension you will want to put it in jack mode because if you don’t and you try jacking it up you could run into the issue of blowing out one of the air suspension bags.
Hi! I have the same Jeep as you, did you change the oil in your transmission? Did you jack up the jeep? Or did you just level it on the ground? What did you do with the air suspension, jack mode? Or did you take out the relay? It would be good to know your experience.
@@NanoDiaz777 Hi there. Yes I ended up changing out the transmission fluid both front and rear differentials and transfer case last Saturday. First thing I did was put the Jeep in “Jack mode”. After that I jacked it up and put it on 4 jack stands like in this video. (All 4 tires have to be off the ground). I bought the OEM mopar transmission pan from Rockauto and the 6qts of trans fluid from Amazon. It’s actually a pretty easy process. One thing to note though. Once you start running it on the jack stands, it takes itself out of jack mode. You’re going to have to put it back In jack mode again while you’re doing the fill process. This video is the best on TH-cam imo. Clear and straightforward.
@@THETOPGLOCK Hello, thanks for responding, just a few questions: why do the tires have to be in the air? will they rotate? Where did you put the jack to lift the rear? The rear differential seems a little fragile.
@@NanoDiaz777 when you’re going through the fill process you will be putting it in drive and achieving enough speed to hit 2nd gear. So all 4 tires will be spinning. I have two jacks. I jacked up the rear first using the lower control arms and a block of wood to lift. Placed the jack stands where the arrow shows. Did the same exact thing for the front. I used a level to make sure it was sitting good front to back. (Exactly like this video).
I have a 2019 Limited with over 60,500 miles. Would this be a good time to change transmission fluid?? I’m also planing to replace the transfer case fluid and 4x4, thank you
I hearing on my vehicle the transmission has to be removed in order to put replace filter..2019 Jeep Cherokee Latitude Plus . Dealership saying of course they can't service me because on my transmission it's a Lifetime oil and filter which is a bunch of lies to me! I have 92,000 miles on jeep. Should I change it now ? Go somewhere else?
Mopar part numbers change with each revision, so you'll have the same numbers, but the AA is unrevised AB they revised something. Some problematic parts are even up to FF and worse.
Nice video. Does the Jeep in the video have an external transmission cooler? The ZF instructions say to add an extra half a liter (16 oz) of fluid if it does, but how could that be done except for tilting the vehicle after the trans is filled with it on the level?
There is a thermostat that won’t open until the transmission fluid reaches 170 or 180 degrees Fahrenheit I believe. So if your just doing a drain and refill you don’t really need to worry about that unless you had to replace the transmission cooler or lines because there will already be old fluid in it and once you do the drain and refill that fluid will just get mixed in when with the new once it get hot enough and that thermostat opens up.
Therefore you saw the orange sticker in the beginning. I have performed this procedure already at 60.000 miles, after 15.000 I am going to donit again.
Hey guys, I have a question. So my dealer ship never did the transmission flush to my 2016 chrysler 300. Now that I am no longer on the extended warranty, im on 125k miles, and im wondering if i should do it myself or just leave it alone.... if someone can help me and explain what i should do, i will greatly appreciate it. Thank you guys. Amazing video!
Chrysler claims the fluid in these transmissions is lifetime and never needs replaced which means the original fluid used is very high quality. So with that said you being at 125k you should have no issues changing the fluid and filter now. If you were at say 250k or something then I think it would be a different story I’d say just leave it.
I want to do this on my 2016 3.6. I bought it second hand with 48k kilometers (like 30k miles) and now it has 63k (around 40k miles) but its 7 years old. It wasnt driven much and was repoed. Sat in a lot for like a year or so. Am I still safe by mileage or is it recommended to do the service by the years it has? It has the original fluid and pan
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE update on this. I just did the transmission service to my Jeep at 72k kilometers (around 45k miles). Everything turned out great, although some bolts were hard to get to and get loose. The old oil was in good condition (golden), and teh filter was kind of saturated. Magnets had fine sparkles but nothing out of the ordinary. It also took 4.5 quarts of fluid more or less. I have a quart unopened and a second one with a little bit of oil. The other more or less 300 mL got spilled, lol. Again, thank you for this great video. I would have never done it right without the proper guidance. Transmission shifts way smoother now.
Dodge claims the transmission fluid is lifetime and never needs to be changed but I disagree with that since every type of oil or transmission fluid will eventually start to breakdown with heat and friction in my opinion with that many miles yes I would recommend changing it.
Hey , great video I have a question. I have 2019 Jeep Cherokee Latitude Plus .9-speed Automatic Transmission 92,000 miles.. No issues, but now I concerned should I get Transmission filter and change fluid to be ahead of the game?
I haven't checked, but most Chrysler product vehicles, from what I have seen, transmission fluid must be checked in "Neutral" while running. Not sure if it applies to the newer Chrysler products...
@@djosbunObviously never used Max Life. Try it, you will become another believer. I actually think it's better than zf because it's made for extending the life of higher mileage transmissions.
@@indyrock8148can Maxlife be mixed in with the older ZF fluid in the next change? Or does the transmission have to be flushed completely before starting to use Maxlife?
@@djosbunall the towing guys don’t care and they still get 300k-500k miles out of their trans. I’m still using recomended mopar stuff as it was cheap on Amazon. Now I’m using valvoline atf+4 as it’s $25 a gallon/4quarts at Napa. Bought two and I’m set
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thats what I was thinking. Since I am nervous over those hard to reach bolts, blocked by that structural beam and the sequencing needed after the change etc., I am opting to get it done. Found a highly recommended Transmission Shop. If I buy the parts and fluid. They'll do it for $250. Thats rather reasonable all things considered. I sure hope more shops get on board with these kind of reasonable alternatives. Mom and Pop spots can make some bank and save us all from Dealership BS.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGEyou actually don't need to do that! Pull the fill plug and take a flexible hose and use an evac pump. I was looking at this when I dropped my pan for the next interval. Silicone hose is very flexible!
14 Durango here almost at 90k, never done it because dealer said it was life time. Now i am afraid if i do might start slipping. Btw my local dealer charges $1200-$1500 to change 🤦🏻♂️
You’ll be totally fine doing it at 90k I’ve seen this done on this transmission with over 150k and have had no issues. When I did this video I believe this Jeep had 80 or around 88k miles and still going strong with no issues.
The procedure I showed in the video is the only way of checking the fluid on this transmission it’s just another way for the dealership to make more money so they make it complicated for people to do it at home. It seems over filled only when it’s not running because the pump isn’t running that’s why you have to follow the procedure in order to check it with it running and being at the certain temp
There’s no way of getting it out. You could always do another drain and refill in 500 miles to help get more of the older fluid out but just doing this every 20-30k miles should be fine.
I’m assuming you meant the transmission fluid pan. If you want to replace the filter yes because the filter is integrated with the pan or you can go with an aftermarket pan which has a replaceable filter. If your looking to just change the fluid then no you don’t have to remove the pan.
Pretty good video overall. I mostly followed it except for the part where you initially removed the fill plug prior to removing the drain plug and had fluid gushing out. I just loosened mine a few threads to make sure I could remove it later and then I removed the drain plug first. Seemed like less of a mess doing it that way. Also, what is the reason for removing the fill plug at all? If you're going to replace the pan I would think that just removing the drain plug would be sufficient and make less of a mess.
Well, you want to make sure you can actually take off the fill plug and you won't have any issues there so you can add fluid back in. This is step 1 of this whole process.
If you can loosen it you verify that you can remove it the rest of the way. By just loosening it you don't make a mess like he did in the video when he removed it completely.
@@RoadiJeff you will make a mess as everything is cooled down. Hey an empty oil catch pan ready, pull the plug, let it drain, put the plug back in, next pull the plug on the pan, next loosen all bolts, pull the filter inlet tube down in doing this you'll get more fluid in the pen, pull the plug again and drain it into the catch pan. This is what I did and I didn't have nearly a mess on my hands. If you have issues reply back and I'll do what I can to help.
@@JF32304 I changed mine out last year, mostly following this video. However, I did not completely remove the fill plug before draining out the fluid via the drain plug. I just loosened it to verify that I could remove it and my method did not have the mess of fluid running out the fill hole like it showed in this video. By draining the old fluid before removing the fill plug it does not make a mess. Watch the video at around 4:45 and you'll see what type of mess of fluid I'm referring to when that fill plug is removed prior to draining the fluid out the drain hole.
Since all the fluid isn’t removed on a transmission fluid change can you use another brand of fluid Castro Valvoline or mobile one? Or do you have to flush the system to use another brand besides Mopar fluid?
just had Valvoline quick change suck out and replace 9 qts of transmission fluid. 2015 jeep grand cherokee 3.6 115k. so far so good 17 miles later. I think this was original fluid looking at carfax. Valvolline does not change filters.
I’m under the impression that you’re supposed to check level at the transmission pan rail. The transmission is lower at the rear when the chassis is level.
I wish someone would answer this because I can not get the rear high enough without considering blocks and other dangerous things under the jack and the front wheels still be off the ground. I read the ZF transmission procedure and it just says vehicle horizontal, it doesn't say trans itself, but others say Trans itself. So I am sitting here the the Jeep jacked up trying to figure out if I should move forward even though the rear is down still by 13 degrees at the transmission. The vehicle is slightly lower at the front itself.
@@nicksmith8095 Hi, were you able to find out if it was the jeep or the jeep transmission that was leveled? Would it be good to know what you did in the end?
@@NanoDiaz777 So I did a lot of reading and it came down to most people saying it really doesn't matter. One suggestion is if ZF was saying level the trans, then level the trans and not the vehicle since the Trans goes in various vehicles. Most people said "do you think mechanics take the time to level the trans, they just put the vehicle on the lift and move on." I ended up leveling the Trans as it wasn't that big of a deal to go ahead and do that.
It’s really tight to get in there but you will need to use the torx style Allen wrench to get in there once you break the screws free you should be able to loosen them with your fingers the rest of the way.
I have an 18’ high altitude 3.6 also I’ve been experiencing rough idle to the point you feel it in the seats inside and you can see the passenger seat vibrating. I’ve been to 4 dealerships and all say everything is normal. I feel like my belt tensioner is wobbling much more then normal. Any advice? I’ve changed idler pulley, harmonic balancer, ac compressor and have done 3 different belt tensioners, everything OEM.
Have you tried cleaning the throttle body? My parents have an envoy and it gets so bad that the car will shut off when you turn the ac on. Some carb cleaner and a toothbrush and it's good for another couple years. Also maybe plug a scan tool in and watch misfire monitors and fuel trims and look for anything out of whack.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thanks I think I’ll just do that. Mopar fluid is a little too out of my budget so I believe I’ll go with the Valvoline maxlife. I’ve read good things about it.
@@wilder211 no it was just a normal sized torx Allen style. You will want to jack the whole car up and put it on jackstands all the way around to make it level that will give you easier access
I did my wife’s 2015 Grand Cherokee today and I drained the old Fluid and did the fill method without changing the Pan. I then ran to operating temp then change the Pan and added new Fluid. I wanted to make sure I got as much of the original 125K fluid out. I used Triax Fluid that meets ZF and Mopar fluid standards and is only $75 for 6 Quarts on Amazon. Maybe a little over kill, but I feel better doing it. I also did the the same Drain/refills twice on the Differentials and Transfer Case using Valvoline ATF-4 and 75W90 Gear oil Synthetics
Have a question..I have a 2018 Grand Cherokee Limited 2WD..when I look online for the transmission specs it says..Transmission: 8-Speed Automatic (850RE)...it does not show a ZF designation as in ZF 8HP70 or ZF 8HP75....what transmission do I have? Is the service procedure the same. Thanks.
Chrysler/Fiat claim it’s lifetime fluid and never needs to be changed out the life of the vehicle so they don’t give you an interval. In my honest opinion I don’t think any oil or fluid is considered lifetime and fluid will start breakdown overtime especially with heat. So I did this vehicle at 88k I believe it was.
If I have 117k miles, is it too late to replace the tranny oil? Dealer kept pushing me off saying 100k interval but now says lifetime and won’t even do it! I know on other cars with lifetime fill tranny that if too old the new fluid will actually cause it to slip
@John Marshall same here 😢. 125k and my extended warranty is no longer available. This sucks. Im debating if i should mess with it on just leave it alone.
The transmission pan rail needs to be level, not the vehicle. In case of Ram truck that usually the rear needs to be lifted about 9 inches higher than the front.
Small print. Lifetime to them means 100k, when its out of warrantee. LMAO When it fails, BOOM $7000 to repair! Sinister yet genius. Just not very customer considerate at all!
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE totally agree. Cap calls for 0-20 which I have always used. Just rolled over 100k and was thinking of switching to 0-30? My reasoning would be for ring wear. What you think?
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The transmission needs to be level not the truck. Best video I’ve seen on this process. Nice job
I did this a couple of years back. Your video was spot on, thank you for sharing. For anyone that is going to be doing this, get yourself a chemical strayer, take the nozzle off of the end of the wand and use that to fill the fluid. It will save you time and hand cramps over using the small quart pump shown here.
Per ZF instructions after you install the new pan and fill you are supposed to put in drive run up to 2000 RPM for 5 seconds brake neutral for 5 seconds reverse run up to 2000 RPM then park you have a window to add fluid between 86 to 122 degrease then you remove the fill cap and add fluid and let it drain until it drips not a steady run like you did. You want to make sure you run through the gears to remove the air in trans. This is why all 4 wheels must be off the ground and level. If you don't run through the gears you will short-fill the transmission very important steps.
The best time of year to change the fluid is in winter or at least no higher than 75 degrees so you have time to run through the gears if it's 90 or more degrees to start you run the chance to exceed the temperature to fill due to the expansion of the fluid.
I also replaced the pan with a PPE pan adds 2 extra quarts of fluid and you can replace the filter only the next fluid change for $25 Vs buying another cover.
This job requires a lot of steps not unlike the old days of drain and fill but the dealer charges $1200 to change the trans fluid. I also used Amsoil fuel-efficient transmission fluid you will notice 2 gear shifts much smoother.
Great video on set up
Everyone tells me factory fluid . I have AMSOIL In everything and am about to do this job . How's things holding up ,I'm at 55k
@@stevehardeman7209 Great its been 20,000 all good use the blue fuel-efficient trans fluid but factory ZF 8 speed is good I personally like the Amsoil Blue
Great video - thanks for all the effort, you did an awesome job covering everything. It's a badge of honor to complete this task (those cross members seem like they were designed to block you from removing/installing the pan bolts). I have done it twice in the last 3 weeks. Why twice? I bought a pan off amazon for $44 instead of going OEM (OEM was $300). That said, I am not 100% sure it was the Amazon pan after replacing it with the OEM pan. You will notice if you watch enough videos people mention one bolt is hard to remove. I ran into the same issue. It was the back corner bolt on the drivers side. Since the Amazon pan leaked there after the first try (in that area only), and I had carefully inspected that pan and thoroughly cleaned/inspected the transmission mating surface before I installed it, I was very careful when I removed it so I cold try to figure out what happened (figured it was the pan or the spacer insert depths). I inspected the threads on that bolt and they were a little pulled, close to the shoulder. Before installing the new pan, I took one of the other bolts and threaded it in that hole with a little D40 to chase the threads (no pan installed). But what surprised me was that it would bottom out very early and looked like it would not make full contact with the pan when it bottomed out. So I screwed the same bolt into almost all of the other holes (some are hard to reach so I did not test them all). All the holes I tested you could screw the bolt all the way to the surface of the transmission. Not wanting to risk another $100 worth of tranny fluid, I took one of the new bolts, found a nut that matched, screwed it on about a 1/8" and cut the top off. Then cleaned it up with a file and unscrewed the nut (to chase the cut threads). When I re-installed the pan, that bolt went in like butter (just like all the others). I would wish I would have saved the bolts from the first swap (you get new ones with the pan) so I could check all of them to make sure they were the same length. I think that back corner one is shorter and the replacement pans are all coming with the same length bolts - and that back drivers side corner one needs to be a little shorter. I could be wrong, but remember this post if you find that bolt is hard to back out. If you end up with a leak after you are all done (mine was small, took a few weeks before I started noticing it on the garage floor) you are not going to be very happy about doing this job again. Once is enough :)
You covered all of this in the video, but typed it out in case someone wants to print it out before they start.
Skid plate bolts (4 of them) are 13mm. Fill plug is 8mm, drain plug (if you have one) is 10mm, pan bolts are Tx40, torque on the pan bolts is 10nm or 89 inch lbs.
Sequence for filling is - install pan, fill till it runs out of the fill port (~2.5 quarts) don't wait for it to stop once it is dripping, it'll need more, loosely reinstall the fill plug.
From here here on out, be careful not to burn your hand/arm on the exhaust near the fill plug (the home depot weed sprayer with the tip removed works great for this).
Start the car, keep it running, pull the fill plug again and fill it till it starts to drip...~ 2 quarts, loosely reinstall the fill plug. Then get in the car, shut stability control off, apply the brake and put it in reverse for 5 seconds, keep the brake applied, shift to drive and wait 5 seconds, take your foot off brake and and slowly accelerate to 8-9 mph until the car shifts into second (or just use sport mode and force it into 2nd) hold it for 5 seconds in 2nd, slowly brake, shift to neutral, rev the engine to 2,000 rpm and hold for 5 seconds, then let it come back to idle (keep it running) and put it in park. Go back under and pull the fill plug and either let it drain until it is a slow drip or fill it until it starts to drip. Put the drain plug back in, shut the car off, reinstall the jack skid plate, pull it off the jack stands and go enjoy a beer while you clean up the shop. Cheers!
Thanks for the extra info.
Used a quarter inch drive torque wrench with a wobbler and was able to get the hard to reach bolts. Really detailed instructions thank you
finally a video that relates to newer models i've been seeing videos made with 2000's vehicles or different models. thanks
Thanks for this video this is exactly what I’ve been searching for. The quality you put into the video is amazing!
Thanks, glad I was able to help you out.
Very nice. I did to my bmw in 2020 (it's almost time again), really it's a pretty straightforward process, assuring that you have a couple of tools. And you'll save a ton of cash and extend the life of your transmission...
Thank you. I'm going to have to do my '15 Grand Cherokee and this video helped me a lot.
Great video on the ZF transmission. Doesn't seem to bad and I think if you measure what you take out like you did that gives you a good idea of what needs to go back in.
Such a good video! Solid content! I picked up a new filter from the dealer yesterday and got the fluid from Amazon the other day. Tackling this project today, might throw in plugs and the oil filter housing as well. Sigh... lol projects that need to be done.
Thanks for such a detailed video!! I am about to change the "lifetime" fluid in my 2015. I always like to watch a few videos beforehand, in the is case I just needed one... Yours!! Thanks
Great video man, every single detail needed to successfully change the transmission fluid is in this video, thanks for making this awesome video
I ended up using the Dorman transmission pan since AutoZone was having a deal... unfortunately it didn't fit up quite like OEM (Bolt holes were aligned - but it was not seated flush on all sides when I fit it up by hand) but I still went through with completing the installation. It started leaking after a few days. I will be replacing it again but OEM this time...
TL:DR - Get the OEM pan... not aftermarket.
Great content. As a FYI, went to dealer today and was quoted just over $1,000 to have this done.
Wow! That is good to know thanks for the info. I think I spent about $350 total in parts.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE i was gonna say if you spent 350 in oem parts... And the dealership wanted 600... Thats 250 dollars in labor.. not too bad to just have them do it since most people dont have the garage..jacks....stands..or tools... But if its 1k dollars... Then doing it myself would probably be the way to go. Thanks again
FYI - my local dealer in MA charged $750 for the fluid / filter change.
LOL I got quoted the same
My 2020 was slipping in 3rd & 4th. Rough shift out of park. This definitely fixed it.
Does yours also hate shifting from 1st to 2nd when you first start it up. Mine does that and makes a harsh jerk
@@Inferno45mine does especially when it’s cold out also have a slight whine I’m hoping this fixes it for me attempting it next weekend
@@bbuckeye12did it fix it for you? I’m having the same issue.
@@Inferno45 did you get around to changing your transmission oil.?
@@bbuckeye12did you fix the issue .?
Thanks for the step by step guide. Just changed 2017 trailhawk and process went by good
This is a really great video with detailed explanation. If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a very long time it would be better to get the pan with the drain plug for future service.
Awesome! Perfect, will use on my 2013 300, thanks again for the great videos!
Dealership quoted me 490 for the service without a new pan. They are charging me for 7 quarts of fluid. 1.4 hours of labor. Has me wondering what kind of procedure they are planning on following lol. I might try it myself. Thanks for the video !
What dealership?
Maybe drain and fill only for 490 you could buy a PPE pan 7 quarts of Amsoil and have money left over.
I'm hoping to do the same in the near future so many thanks for making this video. Your fill procedure was spot on and you took good care to get it right. The amount you put in compared to the amount that came out also balanced. What puzzles me is when you first took the plug out there was quite a gush of fluid kind of like it was overfilled. Is it correct to assume that this was because the engine wasn't running. When running that "excess" fluid would be circulating throughout the transmission. Would this assumption be correct?
Can't thank you enough for the How-to video. Followed it step by step with zero issues.
Excellent! Getting ready to do mine, also at 80xxx miles. Good order links, thank you!
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee, at 103k, was tempted to try this as it is a $650.00 charge at the Stealership! The part alone are about $400.00 dollars! So I sucked it up and paid! We have a lifetime warranty and didn’t want to risk any denial of a claim ! Great video , thanks for your work!
Not bad honestly. Mine was charging 1400+ but did it myself for around 400.
Thanks for the great video, this gives me the confidence to try it, though I don't have a way to get the car up on jack stands so the wheels are spinning free. I wouldn't think that would be an absolute requirement. One that that deters me a bit is those three bolts that look really hard to reach that are under the cross member thing. It actually looks like there are holes in the crossmember that align with where the three bolts are to aid in installing the bolts, is that possibly what those three holes are for?
Hi!! Did you change the oil in your transmission? Did you jack up the jeep? Or did you just level it on the ground?
Excellent video Brother…! Will be doing this tomorrow on my wife’s ‘18 JGC. Took notes and ready to get it done.
How many miles? I'm at around 50k, and considering doing it, being 6yrs old too
@@jeff_9074 Sorry, just now seeing this. Have 96k miles.
Just completed mine and I'm not a fan of wrenching on vehicles by any means lol. No leaks! Praise thy Lord Jesus!
Great work and above all very well explained. Thanks for that.
Thanks for the video I was looking something like that, but you explained really awesome.
I measured mine and i pulled out 5.5 qts and I'm at 4 in. Could it have been overfull? I'm letting it sit over night and I'll check/add more tomorrow. Be sure sure and turn off traction control! It shifted into 2nd nice and smooth, I didn't do 5 seconds, I'll do that tomorrow. I can hear the solinoids activating just fine. Thank you for the well done video!
ZF manuel says: P, R, N, D, D1 and D2 for 10 sec each. Then check fluid level. But temp has to be monitored.
@@TheCybercrash yep, the next morning I got back down there and added another 1.55 qts totaling 5.5 in just as I was hitting the end of what I had I saw the drip start. I processed the above procedure and it's done now. I took the oil to my local shop for their container and it was real dirty, not burned or anything like that, just filthy and needed to be changed.
@@TheCybercrash and yes, temp has to be monitored and was.
Excellent video. Makes my F350 look easy. I am guessing, this is the wifes vehicle? Is that the Trailhawk, We got the Trailhawk, really like it, but am dreading when something goes wrong with the variable suspension. Got about 80k on ours, and one of the front rotors warped really bad, started squueking on a road trip, got both rotors turned, brakes are pretty straight forward except for the ridiculous 11mm(7/16) hex needed and the E bolts. I think i am going to invent a way to check the transmission fluid, i dont know something like an oil dipstick, I'll make millions! Thanks again, GOD bless, JESUS is King.
Had my girl call the local transmission shop about doing this job. The guy talked to his distributor and a couple other people and they all said these transmission are designed to go 140k miles whether the fluid and filter are changed or not it’s not gonna last much longer than that. His advise was to trade it in when it hits 120k. He said he’d do it if we want to but it’s not gonna make a difference.
I think it all depends on how the vehicle has been driven. I disagree with some of that because I’ve seen these transmissions with well over 140k miles especially ones that have had the fluid serviced in the past.
I'm going to change the fluid and filter on my 2016 Grand Cherokee Laredo. I didn't like the answer I received from 3 Mopar dealerships near me; "forever fluid " response. Then the quote for the job: I'm not buying another Jeep, lol😂
I currently have 241,600 miles on mine. Maintenance is very important for longevity.
Once again, your video was awesome, and you made this look much easier to do than others I've seen, including one guy removing motor mounts and jacking up the engine to get to the bolts above the crossmember😂😂😂.
I just received my suspension lift kit from Rough Country, I can't wait to put it on!
Thanks for another great video!!
Almost forgot to tell you, 241,600 miles on the original transmission fluid!!
@@mikebrown8065 Hi, great, and how did it go with the transmission after the oil and filter change? Everything okay? It would be important to know your experience with this.
I have a 2016 with 170k on it. Looking for a DIY video, this seems nice.
Gracias por el video, por lo que tengo entendido la transmisión usa al rededor de 8 litros, porque en este caso no salio esa cantidad?
8 litros es la cantidad que le cabe a la transmisión si fueras a reemplazar todo el fluido. Con éste método se saca bastante pero tengo entendido que siempre se queda fluido en el sistema.
@@Joelo26 muchas gracias amigo. saludos desde chile
Great video. One question, I don't know the answer, so not being a smart a**. Should you not have leveled the transmission, instead of the vehicle? The trans does not sit level with the body of the Jeep. Thanks for the video
You can do it either way really is not going to make much of a difference because if you take it to the dealership they will put it up on the rack which makes the vehicle level.
I thought about this as well, as it sits the transmission is tilting towards the back fill plug and might not be allowing the proper amount of fluid in.
I leveled the body and drained 6.4 quarts, out of the original pan that had the pan drain plug. Installed new pan and could only get 4 quarts back in, after running several start/run procedures. Then I leveled the transmission, and the remaining went in with no issue. So I replaced the exact amount that I took out. Every video shows leveling the body, but so many comments saying the same thing, “won’t hold the amount that came out”. Im not a mechanic, so please correct me if im wrong!
@@BrianPardue-t1u you're wrong. I pulled out 5.7 quarts. I thought I could only get 4 in. I let it sit over night, I called ZF themselves and they said level the vehicle and not the pan. So, I kept the vehicle level, started it up, ran through the systems shifting again, you don't have to spin the tires when shifting into 2nd! You can just manual shift while holding the brakes! (This is what ZF told me, they said it's actually bad to spin the tires) I then went back down and added another quart, it was getting a little warm, shut it down. Came back in a few hours and did the exact same procedure and got almost another qt in and it began to drip. So, I put back in exactly what I pulled out. Praise Jesus! I was praying the whole way through this process. Installed the plug, made it good n tight, installed the cover, took it for a spin and all is good. No shifting issues at all, totally smooth, everything running as it should and completely happy with it.
Thanks for telling me I’m wrong 🤣. Great info and thanks for sharing!
Should you pre soak the new filter to ensure that what you took out is what you are putting in? I imagine that the filter soaks up a good amount of fluid.
Great video bud!!! No gasket sealer for the pan when replaced or is it unbolt, clean mounting area and reinstall new pan ?
Yep just clean up surface and bolt new pan up. The new pan has the gasket already in place and no need for sealant.
Great video… on another note. Do you happen to know why the water pumps constantly fail on these? Already done 3, all leak at the weep plug. 3 different brands used. Had to be a pressure issue.
I've done 4 so far, 3 mopar and the 4th is a gates. dealership won't honor the warranty anymore so I went to rockauto for the gates.
Excellent video! Hopefully the same applies for my 2020 Grand Cherokee. Going to give a try.
I wonder if the torque specs apply to all ZF transmission, like for my durango? Should that info be on the manual? 🤔
Yeah it will be the same since the grand Cherokee and Durango share the same chassis
So when refilling how to do you fill it to the maximum? Cause once you refill and it doesn’t spill out like it originally did, doesn’t it mean your under the amount and need more?
Cough cough... mine has 130k on it and to my knowledge the trans fluid hasn't been changed. Is it worth it or should I just drive it until it's done and save up for a trans replacement here in x amount of months?
You’ll be fine changing it at 130k.
Thanks for this video!
FCA claims lifetime oil, but did you notice any malfunctions on the transmission behavior that pushed you to change the oil ?
I have a 2018 GC 3.0 Diesel and it is 110k miles now. I recently noticed a malfunction when driving at high speed: the car speed is blocked at 185 km/h, the gear speed stays on the 7th gear and does not shift the 8th. Do you think this may have something to do with oil state ?
Thank you
They claim it’s lifetime fluid but I have a hard time believing that. No issues with the transmission owner just wanted to keep up on the maintenance. As for the transmission staying in 7th and not going into 8th I have heard there was a tsb on this and some of the Jeep GC got a reflash.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you ! I did not find this TSB, but when I will perform the oil change, the dealer will do something on the TCM in order to reset the software to take into consideration the fact the oil is new. I hope this will solve the 8th gear engaging issue.
ZF as an OEM recommands the partially change of the fluid every 80 to 120.000 km depending on your drive style. The dealer will not recognize your new oil condition in the gear box.
Great video & explained. BUT how when you removed the “refill plug” a bunch came out. So that means when you refill it you just refilling it until it drips out BUT when you removed the plug literally almost a quart came out. I need answers lol
When you refill it the engine has to be running to get the proper level and the fluid has to be within certain temperature range. It's all in the video. When he removed the fill plug the engine wasn't running and no fluid was circulating in the system, so a lot more was just sitting in the pan. To avoid the fluid mess my suggestion in a previous comment was to just loosen the fill plug to see that it could be removed if necessary and then remove the drain plug.
Last two digits of the part number refer to revision of the part. As the last letter increments indicates latest revision.
Good job i was thinking i would figure out a way to take the filter out and clean it
When did they switch to this integrated filter pan?
What brand tires are those?
The wheel base looks wider, were there spacers added??
My question is a simple one if you measure the exact amount of fluid that came out of the transmission and you put the same exact amount of fluid back why would all those procedures be even necessary?
There’s no telling that you have that right fluid level to begin with.
Can you tell me if I follow the same procedure for a 2018 grand Cherokee SRT? Thank you.
Yes it will be the same.
Great video, question for you, I have a 2018 chrysler 300 awd with 45k on it, do you think it would ok to just change the fluid and not the filter since it has low miles? Thank for the reply back
Yeah you don’t have to change the filter every time you can just do the fluid. My daughter has a 2016 300 awd with 65k so I might be tackling this job soon and a few others which I’ll probably record.
Did you get the instructions with the new pan? I’m about to this to our 2014 GC Overland. I’m reading something about putting the vehicle in “Jack mode” because of the air ride. How are you supposed to run in like that?
No it did not come with an instructions, if you have air ride suspension you will want to put it in jack mode because if you don’t and you try jacking it up you could run into the issue of blowing out one of the air suspension bags.
Hi! I have the same Jeep as you, did you change the oil in your transmission? Did you jack up the jeep? Or did you just level it on the ground? What did you do with the air suspension, jack mode? Or did you take out the relay? It would be good to know your experience.
@@NanoDiaz777 Hi there. Yes I ended up changing out the transmission fluid both front and rear differentials and transfer case last Saturday. First thing I did was put the Jeep in “Jack mode”. After that I jacked it up and put it on 4 jack stands like in this video. (All 4 tires have to be off the ground). I bought the OEM mopar transmission pan from Rockauto and the 6qts of trans fluid from Amazon. It’s actually a pretty easy process. One thing to note though. Once you start running it on the jack stands, it takes itself out of jack mode. You’re going to have to put it back In jack mode again while you’re doing the fill process. This video is the best on TH-cam imo. Clear and straightforward.
@@THETOPGLOCK Hello, thanks for responding, just a few questions: why do the tires have to be in the air? will they rotate? Where did you put the jack to lift the rear? The rear differential seems a little fragile.
@@NanoDiaz777 when you’re going through the fill process you will be putting it in drive and achieving enough speed to hit 2nd gear. So all 4 tires will be spinning. I have two jacks. I jacked up the rear first using the lower control arms and a block of wood to lift. Placed the jack stands where the arrow shows. Did the same exact thing for the front. I used a level to make sure it was sitting good front to back. (Exactly like this video).
So my fluid came running out more than that I got nervous and put the plug back on any input?
Were you at the proper temperature and with the vehicle running?
I have a 2019 Limited with over 60,500 miles. Would this be a good time to change transmission fluid?? I’m also planing to replace the transfer case fluid and 4x4, thank you
At 60,500 that’s actually perfect timing to change out the trans and transfer case fluid.
I hearing on my vehicle the transmission has to be removed in order to put replace filter..2019 Jeep Cherokee Latitude Plus . Dealership saying of course they can't service me because on my transmission it's a Lifetime oil and filter which is a bunch of lies to me! I have 92,000 miles on jeep. Should I change it now ? Go somewhere else?
Mopar part numbers change with each revision, so you'll have the same numbers, but the AA is unrevised AB they revised something. Some problematic parts are even up to FF and worse.
Nice video. Does the Jeep in the video have an external transmission cooler? The ZF instructions say to add an extra half a liter (16 oz) of fluid if it does, but how could that be done except for tilting the vehicle after the trans is filled with it on the level?
There is a thermostat that won’t open until the transmission fluid reaches 170 or 180 degrees Fahrenheit I believe. So if your just doing a drain and refill you don’t really need to worry about that unless you had to replace the transmission cooler or lines because there will already be old fluid in it and once you do the drain and refill that fluid will just get mixed in when with the new once it get hot enough and that thermostat opens up.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE are you very confident in this answer? I've seen this too but there is some conflicting information out there
Therefore you saw the orange sticker in the beginning. I have performed this procedure already at 60.000 miles, after 15.000 I am going to donit again.
Hey guys, I have a question. So my dealer ship never did the transmission flush to my 2016 chrysler 300. Now that I am no longer on the extended warranty, im on 125k miles, and im wondering if i should do it myself or just leave it alone.... if someone can help me and explain what i should do, i will greatly appreciate it. Thank you guys. Amazing video!
Chrysler claims the fluid in these transmissions is lifetime and never needs replaced which means the original fluid used is very high quality. So with that said you being at 125k you should have no issues changing the fluid and filter now. If you were at say 250k or something then I think it would be a different story I’d say just leave it.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you!! Will do asap!!
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGEhi mine 2014 wk2 is just over 150k , do you feel it is still safe to do it?
@@OscarGarcia-sx6txdid you replace it? How is your transmission after that?
As I understand, these Transmissions can’t be Flushed, they have a Thermal Valve that opens at 86 Degrees.
I was wondering about sending out a sample to Black Stone labs to see if this lifetime fluid has issues...
You should because it would be nice to know.
So the car is in Manual mode and you shift into 2nd gear manually?
Also, no ABS or brake warnings when putting into drive on stands?
He put the car on Jack stands and disabled traction control so the front was free to turn. I did it to mine and all is fine.
I want to do this on my 2016 3.6. I bought it second hand with 48k kilometers (like 30k miles) and now it has 63k (around 40k miles) but its 7 years old. It wasnt driven much and was repoed. Sat in a lot for like a year or so.
Am I still safe by mileage or is it recommended to do the service by the years it has? It has the original fluid and pan
You should be fine doing it now with no issues I’ve seen people do it with 150k miles and had no problems afterwards.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE update on this. I just did the transmission service to my Jeep at 72k kilometers (around 45k miles). Everything turned out great, although some bolts were hard to get to and get loose. The old oil was in good condition (golden), and teh filter was kind of saturated. Magnets had fine sparkles but nothing out of the ordinary. It also took 4.5 quarts of fluid more or less. I have a quart unopened and a second one with a little bit of oil. The other more or less 300 mL got spilled, lol.
Again, thank you for this great video. I would have never done it right without the proper guidance. Transmission shifts way smoother now.
Found Pentosin ATF 8 at rock auto for $17 ish a quart. FYI. 😁 Like to do mine here soon. Found a double action fluid transfer pump too.
Good to know thanks.
Hey men I have over a 113,375 miles on my car should u recommend do this I have 2014 Durango
Dodge claims the transmission fluid is lifetime and never needs to be changed but I disagree with that since every type of oil or transmission fluid will eventually start to breakdown with heat and friction in my opinion with that many miles yes I would recommend changing it.
Hey , great video I have a question. I have 2019 Jeep Cherokee Latitude Plus .9-speed Automatic Transmission 92,000 miles.. No issues, but now I concerned should I get Transmission filter and change fluid to be ahead of the game?
Did yoy place a new gasket on the pan? I was quotes $1140.00 at the dealer and bought the parts online for under $400. October 2024
For some reason, it seem like when you originally started a lot of fluid came out of the fill plug was it overfilled to begin with?
No that’s because the vehicle was off so the pump wasn’t running.
I haven't checked, but most Chrysler product vehicles, from what I have seen, transmission fluid must be checked in "Neutral" while running. Not sure if it applies to the newer Chrysler products...
I have a 2014 ecodiesel. I have done this twice 187,000. Just a heads up you can use Valvoline max life instead of the zf brand.
Ask Chrysler if the Valvoline is approved. They’ll tell you no. It’s not the same fluid and should not be used.
Chrysler wants money lol so of course they will say no, it says on the bottle it's used for that exact transmission fluid replacement @@djosbun
@@djosbunObviously never used Max Life.
Try it, you will become another believer.
I actually think it's better than zf because it's made for extending the life of higher mileage transmissions.
@@indyrock8148can Maxlife be mixed in with the older ZF fluid in the next change? Or does the transmission have to be flushed completely before starting to use Maxlife?
@@djosbunall the towing guys don’t care and they still get 300k-500k miles out of their trans. I’m still using recomended mopar stuff as it was cheap on Amazon. Now I’m using valvoline atf+4 as it’s $25 a gallon/4quarts at Napa. Bought two and I’m set
If the new pan had no drain plug, how you drain it next time?
You just have to pull the pan and make a big mess. Just another way they are trying to make you go to the dealership to have it done.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thats what I was thinking. Since I am nervous over those hard to reach bolts, blocked by that structural beam and the sequencing needed after the change etc., I am opting to get it done. Found a highly recommended Transmission Shop. If I buy the parts and fluid. They'll do it for $250. Thats rather reasonable all things considered. I sure hope more shops get on board with these kind of reasonable alternatives. Mom and Pop spots can make some bank and save us all from Dealership BS.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGEyou actually don't need to do that! Pull the fill plug and take a flexible hose and use an evac pump. I was looking at this when I dropped my pan for the next interval. Silicone hose is very flexible!
I have a 2016 grand Cherokee Limited 3.6 v6 and it’s leaking all around the the transmission, pan gasket at 80,000 miles
Where did you get your gasket from? I’ve went to 7 different stores and all of them have the same wrong one.
How many miles did you have when changing the transmission oil?
14 Durango here almost at 90k, never done it because dealer said it was life time. Now i am afraid if i do might start slipping. Btw my local dealer charges $1200-$1500 to change 🤦🏻♂️
You’ll be totally fine doing it at 90k I’ve seen this done on this transmission with over 150k and have had no issues. When I did this video I believe this Jeep had 80 or around 88k miles and still going strong with no issues.
Dealership claims this is a lifetime fluid but yet they offer a fluid service 🤔
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Exactly, thank you 🙏🏽
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE
Where you found those instructions brother? I have been watching your video to try memorize them!
How do you fill it when so much fluid came out of it? Seems WAY overfilled. Is there another level check?
The procedure I showed in the video is the only way of checking the fluid on this transmission it’s just another way for the dealership to make more money so they make it complicated for people to do it at home. It seems over filled only when it’s not running because the pump isn’t running that’s why you have to follow the procedure in order to check it with it running and being at the certain temp
Is that the zf 850re trans? Can you mix valvoline maxlife atf with the factory fluids?
Thanks a lot my friend!👏🏻
What about the remaining fluid in the torque converter?
There’s no way of getting it out. You could always do another drain and refill in 500 miles to help get more of the older fluid out but just doing this every 20-30k miles should be fine.
Did you consider the transmission thermostat bypass valve?
You have to change the oil pan every service?
I’m assuming you meant the transmission fluid pan. If you want to replace the filter yes because the filter is integrated with the pan or you can go with an aftermarket pan which has a replaceable filter. If your looking to just change the fluid then no you don’t have to remove the pan.
Pretty good video overall. I mostly followed it except for the part where you initially removed the fill plug prior to removing the drain plug and had fluid gushing out. I just loosened mine a few threads to make sure I could remove it later and then I removed the drain plug first. Seemed like less of a mess doing it that way. Also, what is the reason for removing the fill plug at all? If you're going to replace the pan I would think that just removing the drain plug would be sufficient and make less of a mess.
Well, you want to make sure you can actually take off the fill plug and you won't have any issues there so you can add fluid back in. This is step 1 of this whole process.
If you can loosen it you verify that you can remove it the rest of the way. By just loosening it you don't make a mess like he did in the video when he removed it completely.
@@RoadiJeff you will make a mess as everything is cooled down. Hey an empty oil catch pan ready, pull the plug, let it drain, put the plug back in, next pull the plug on the pan, next loosen all bolts, pull the filter inlet tube down in doing this you'll get more fluid in the pen, pull the plug again and drain it into the catch pan. This is what I did and I didn't have nearly a mess on my hands. If you have issues reply back and I'll do what I can to help.
@@JF32304 I changed mine out last year, mostly following this video. However, I did not completely remove the fill plug before draining out the fluid via the drain plug. I just loosened it to verify that I could remove it and my method did not have the mess of fluid running out the fill hole like it showed in this video. By draining the old fluid before removing the fill plug it does not make a mess. Watch the video at around 4:45 and you'll see what type of mess of fluid I'm referring to when that fill plug is removed prior to draining the fluid out the drain hole.
That is so lame of mopar to remove the drain plug. Would you recommend an aluminum aftermarket and if so which one?
I need to do this. Have 133k and it’s overdue,
You ever get this done?
Since all the fluid isn’t removed on a transmission fluid change can you use another brand of fluid Castro Valvoline or mobile one? Or do you have to flush the system to use another brand besides Mopar fluid?
Do not do that! Do not! Put in OEM 8 or 9 speed ATF. If you mix them good chance you'll kill the tranny.
just had Valvoline quick change suck out and replace 9 qts of transmission fluid. 2015 jeep grand cherokee 3.6 115k. so far so good 17 miles later. I think this was original fluid looking at carfax. Valvolline does not change filters.
Ouch
Ouch! I hope it lasts for you! Sincerely.
I’m under the impression that you’re supposed to check level at the transmission pan rail.
The transmission is lower at the rear when the chassis is level.
I wish someone would answer this because I can not get the rear high enough without considering blocks and other dangerous things under the jack and the front wheels still be off the ground. I read the ZF transmission procedure and it just says vehicle horizontal, it doesn't say trans itself, but others say Trans itself. So I am sitting here the the Jeep jacked up trying to figure out if I should move forward even though the rear is down still by 13 degrees at the transmission. The vehicle is slightly lower at the front itself.
@@nicksmith8095 Hi, were you able to find out if it was the jeep or the jeep transmission that was leveled? Would it be good to know what you did in the end?
@@NanoDiaz777 So I did a lot of reading and it came down to most people saying it really doesn't matter. One suggestion is if ZF was saying level the trans, then level the trans and not the vehicle since the Trans goes in various vehicles. Most people said "do you think mechanics take the time to level the trans, they just put the vehicle on the lift and move on." I ended up leveling the Trans as it wasn't that big of a deal to go ahead and do that.
@@nicksmith8095 Thanks for taking the time to answer. Level the trans uploading it in 4 Jack Stand?
@@nicksmith8095 Hello, how are you how much you had to raise the jeep in the back to level the transmission?
I have 2020 ones with 30k mils. Should I replace the transmission fluid?
50-60k miles is ZF recommended spec
how you removed the oil pan bolt by the crossmember?
It’s really tight to get in there but you will need to use the torx style Allen wrench to get in there once you break the screws free you should be able to loosen them with your fingers the rest of the way.
Thats what i did. Very fkn tedious but you can get it done .
How much does the temp matter when checking? mine is at 130. would that be ok?
No, if you don’t check it at the right temps, you won’t have the correct fill of fluid
Thanks for the video i wanted to do mine myself but couldn't find a good video. How many miles on the WK?
This one had 88k I believe
I have an 18’ high altitude 3.6 also I’ve been experiencing rough idle to the point you feel it in the seats inside and you can see the passenger seat vibrating. I’ve been to 4 dealerships and all say everything is normal. I feel like my belt tensioner is wobbling much more then normal. Any advice? I’ve changed idler pulley, harmonic balancer, ac compressor and have done 3 different belt tensioners, everything OEM.
How many miles is on it? Have you done any basic tune up items like spark plugs?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I have 62k miles on it, and yes I’ve done all the spark plugs also. And the Pcv valve also.
Did you figure it out? I had the same issue and it was the engine mounts. See if there’s fluid leaking from them
@@chick009 nah man I changed out my mounts for and still have the same issue
Have you tried cleaning the throttle body? My parents have an envoy and it gets so bad that the car will shut off when you turn the ac on. Some carb cleaner and a toothbrush and it's good for another couple years. Also maybe plug a scan tool in and watch misfire monitors and fuel trims and look for anything out of whack.
2018. How many miles do you have? I wouldn’t even think about this until 80k miles.
Edit. Never mind. I heard it in the video
This one had 88k
Could I just change the fluid and not the filter?
Yes you can that’s what a lot of people do. Most manufacturers only recommend replacing the filter if the fluid is really dirty or old.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thanks I think I’ll just do that. Mopar fluid is a little too out of my budget so I believe I’ll go with the Valvoline maxlife. I’ve read good things about it.
Wow! Attempted this today. Are you using a long arm torq key? And should I try and Jack up the transmission to get easier access to the bolts?
@@wilder211 no it was just a normal sized torx Allen style. You will want to jack the whole car up and put it on jackstands all the way around to make it level that will give you easier access
I did my wife’s 2015 Grand Cherokee today and I drained the old Fluid and did the fill method without changing the Pan. I then ran to operating temp then change the Pan and added new Fluid. I wanted to make sure I got as much of the original 125K fluid out. I used Triax Fluid that meets ZF and Mopar fluid standards and is only $75 for 6 Quarts on Amazon. Maybe a little over kill, but I feel better doing it. I also did the the same Drain/refills twice on the Differentials and Transfer Case using Valvoline ATF-4 and 75W90 Gear oil Synthetics
How about a coolant flush on the jeep
Here’s a link to my video on doing that th-cam.com/video/VtAWtyWzE7w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YUbok4WrI1QSBer5
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I found it. Thanks. Great job
Have a question..I have a 2018 Grand Cherokee Limited 2WD..when I look online for the transmission specs it says..Transmission: 8-Speed Automatic (850RE)...it does not show a ZF designation as in ZF 8HP70 or ZF 8HP75....what transmission do I have? Is the service procedure the same. Thanks.
debes buscar en wikipedia jeep grand cherokee y aparecen todas especifcaciones, incluyendo la transmisión que lleva tu jeep
i have a 2018 wrangler with the 8 speed. It has 78,000 miles. What is the manufacturer (ZF) maintenance interval?
Chrysler/Fiat claim it’s lifetime fluid and never needs to be changed out the life of the vehicle so they don’t give you an interval. In my honest opinion I don’t think any oil or fluid is considered lifetime and fluid will start breakdown overtime especially with heat. So I did this vehicle at 88k I believe it was.
ZF lists the service interval at 60,000 miles I believe.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE ياصديقي اريد تغيير الزيت كم يكفي علبة زيت سيارتي 3.6 لتر 6v مديل 2012 ؟
If I have 117k miles, is it too late to replace the tranny oil? Dealer kept pushing me off saying 100k interval but now says lifetime and won’t even do it! I know on other cars with lifetime fill tranny that if too old the new fluid will actually cause it to slip
@John Marshall same here 😢. 125k and my extended warranty is no longer available. This sucks. Im debating if i should mess with it on just leave it alone.
The best video
is your kit works only for 3.6 engine ?
No this will also work for the 5.7 Hemi it’s the same exact transmission.
The transmission pan rail needs to be level, not the vehicle. In case of Ram truck that usually the rear needs to be lifted about 9 inches higher than the front.
Lifetime fluid is about the dumbest thing they try to sell to us.
Agreed
Small print. Lifetime to them means 100k, when its out of warrantee. LMAO When it fails, BOOM $7000 to repair! Sinister yet genius. Just not very customer considerate at all!
Yeah, even the engineers/designers of this Transmission suggest changing the fluid every 60k
What oil you running in that 3.6?
This is not my vehicle just a customers so I haven’t changed the oil on it. But if it were mine I’d be running pennzoil ultra platinum very good oil.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE totally agree. Cap calls for 0-20 which I have always used. Just rolled over 100k and was thinking of switching to 0-30? My reasoning would be for ring wear. What you think?
Built in gasket?
Yes the gasket is built in.
Plastic transmission pan? Those plastic "heat sink" cooling fins, I'm sure dicapate heat better than steel or aluminum. Aren't these a $55k vehicles?