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The Kingsman Were WRONG! "Oxfords Not Brogues" Explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2024
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Do you know the difference between Oxfords and Brogues? Comment below! 👇
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Whats the most fitting shoes for people that have flat feet?
I wish you could talk about clothes from other countries such as a Barong from the Philippines, etc...
sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the password. I would love any help you can give me
@Everett Kane Instablaster :)
@Torin Wade thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
“Oxfords. Not Crocks“ - Kingsman.
Words to live by 🙏
👏
PREACH SON!
Amen to that.
I'm with you
Or the ultimate rule: "Never fucking wear Crocs!"
in the spanish subtitle of the movie Harry say "oxfords sin brogues" what means oxfords without brogues and i think this has more sense
In German he says: "oxfords keine Budapester" wich means oxfords no budepesters. Where Budapester is the German name for wingtip, fullbrogue Derbys with some additional features.
So German was more spot on as well
English is highly ambiguous.
@@SansAziza It's very clear in English too; this guy is just doing clickbait for folks who didn't understand the terminology
I thought it was clear. I follow that rule -- I will never wear any brogue shoe.
They should have done it this way tbh
I'm pretty sure they meant "Oxfords, (that are) not Brogues."
It depends on how you tone your voice.
From The Ground Up totally agree
In other words, the inflection
@@xell5252 Did not know that word, thanks!
@@YardenJZ you are very welcome sir
Agree!
I think what Harry really meant was "Oxfords, but without broguing". The true mistake was when Harry said that Oxford is a shoe with open lacing
aKirill i agree. The correct line should be “oxford without brogue”.
Yep, if you're going to be a snob about broguing you should at least know what an Oxford actually is *facepalm*
aKirill Harry actually says “Oxford not brogued.”
it’s because you’re an american mate
First shoe, with bar across toe, is called, a Gibson,
Second shoe, is a Cambridge brogue, punched holes down the side of shoe,
Then there is a oxford brogue,( most common), no punch holes down the side, mainly on an around toe area,
To resume Oxford ( or Richelieu as we call it in France) is to be "opposed" to derby shoe. Brogue is just actually a decor in shoe. Harry should have telled "Oxford not brogued"
Although Harry's description of the shoe was wrong, I think it can still be a good motto to live by, meaning "Always opt to be refined rather than casual. Don't just be a man, be a gentleman."
That's the wrong way to look at it. One should always strive for what is appropriate. You shouldn't wear hunting boots to a wedding, but likewise you shouldn't wear calfskin Oxfords on a hunting trip. There are many times when being casual is precisely what is called for. Real gentleman historically did all kinds of things. They didn't just sit indoors and drink tea. They did everything from hunting to warfare to even manual labor. They were well-rounded.
All the pomp of rules of formality actually comes out of the middle classes, the "strivers" who are always trying to show everyone that they are "better" than the common plebs. Real gentlemen are secure in their station and have no need for such things. Rules like that are appropriate for the Kingsmen because they are servants (bordering on slaves, even) and expendable ones at that.
Interesting topic to take up, Antonio! I like it.
It's informative, yet entertaining at the same time. Also, the dramatic music (4 answers, 3 shoes & Crocs) is hilarious!
Finally, someone noticed the music.😆
Ad ends 4:50, enjoy.
Great video, Antonio! The phrase should have been “Oxfords, without brogues.” A brogue is not a type of shoe, but rather a decorative element. The type of shoe is the derby, as is the oxford.
Watch the latest movie, the King's Man and it will make more sense
There is a scene in the film where the Harry character addresses the ‘oxfords not brogues’ term. He describes the oxford as ‘any shoe with *OPEN* lacing.’ It’s a deliberate error, surely.
Rev. James C yes, what a terrible mistake
Indeed...its right up there with Ian Fleming's "shaken, not stirred".
@@Tmanaz480 I'm pretty sure that was deliberate on Fleming's part. In Casino Royale he orders quite an elaborate cocktail, and only later switches to vodka martinis. It fits Bond's character, as shaking would dilute the martini more, than stirring, which means getting less drunk, which makes sense for a secret agent. Also, he orders it with vodka and not gin, further emphasising that despite the appearances, Bond is a brute.
@@ModernGrimm shaking makes any cocktail makes it colder. as for dilution it would be so minimal if at all, to be essentially irrelevant. besides the fact that if the all the content is drank, you've consumed all the alcohol anyways. the whole point of the shaken *vodka* martini had another element. any smart Englishman would never shake a martini ( you don't have to say gin that's understood, but you do have to designate vodka. ). if you shake gin, it bruises. the bruising is actually air bubbles and ice crystals from shaking. but doing so is, "bad form" as they say.
@@josephcampese5347 I guess you're right with the amount of dilution not being a factor in getting less drunk or hangover, but I think we both made the same point, that despite the appearence, Bond is unsophisticated brute. He basically violates every rule you might have with a martini. Vodka has less taste than gin (even less, if it's cold), and shaking does dilute cocktails more than just stirring - as you've said, it might not be enough to stay hydrated, but it definitely alters the taste. Add the bruising you've mentioned, and the result is probably a drink that you chug down instantly, rather than properly tasting and sipping it. So while he still orders a cocktail that might seem elegant to the uninitiated (a fancy martini with a unique signature twist), in reality he's going for a quick and easy buzz.
We finally have the answer. In the newest movie, the original saying was "We are Oxfords, not rogues"
in the new movie it finally answers our demand, in the movie that was set in the past, the phrase “oxford not brouges” was originally “oxford not rouges”. Maybe this is the reason why the phrase is like that, due to its heritage.
Did you consider that he may have meant: "Oxfords without broguing"? "Oxfords not brogues" is just another way of saying "Oxfords not Derbies. Formal not brogued."
Thats exactly what I think he meant
1 Oxford without brogue
2 Derby with long-wing brogue
3 Oxford with semi brogue
Please note Derby is not pronounced Durby, it is pronounced Darby. It is a town in the East Mids of UK.
Great explanation Antonio! In the video Harry actually says an Oxford is a shoe with an open-lacing system. Think the writers just fumbled that one. Should've brought you on as a consultant for the movie!
Dude u went way to deep into this movie quote...
he clearly meant decorative brogueing on shoes is not for him or kingsmen. Which makes sense bcs they were historically nobility/white collar, born with a silver spoon up their ass, and would never have to wear peasant shoes with brogueing bcs they aren't farm hands walking through marshes. They r the elite, upper class. They r kingsmen. U could argue that eggsy could be badass and wear some oxfords with slight brogueing to rep his set. Lol
Historically gentlemen did all sorts of things outdoors, like hunting and horseback riding. Hunting boots would very often have broguing, as would other outdoor shoes. The "fashion rules" never really applied to actual aristocrats, but were adopted mostly by the middle classes trying to emulate what they thought the upper classes were like. A true gentleman is going to do whatever he likes doing, and is going to wear whatever is appropriate to the activity. Likewise speaking with a posh accent - actual aristocrats spoke like normal people, but the middle classes always tried to differentiate themselves from the poor.
The same is true today. Billionaires wear what they want. They know they are not peasants, so they don't need to prove it. It's the middle class "striver" plebs trying to show that they are less plebeian than the other plebs. At least that's what's going on with "designer" clothes.
Yep RC nailed it. I truly believe it was meant to be a high standard dress code of a gentlemen. The video literally defines Brogues as more casual. Kingsman dont do casual when they are in official capacity
Brogues are worn by the gentry in the country and with Highland dress. They are also worn with some uniforms in the British Army, particularly Scottish ones. The word "brogue" simply means "shoe" in Irish. The word is also used in Scottish Gaelic. If you said "wingtip" to a Briton, they'd assume you were talking about an aeroplane.
True! Nobody who knows men's fashion would say "Oxfords, not Brogues." And THAT is why it makes a good password.
I’m English and (at least where I live) Oxford would generally refer to plain/cap toe oxfords and brogues refer to and brogue whether an Oxford or derby (pronounced “darby” like the city btw)
In Russian dub Harry said "Oxford, but not brogue". I think it has more sense
I learned a lot from this video. I never knew about open lacing vs closed lacing.
Got all three and now im vindicated with my brogue jeans combo, it feels right.
First one is Oxford cap toe and it's the most formal shoes. 2nd is derby with brogue, informal, and the last one is Oxford with brogue, less formal than oxford cap toe.
Before I see the answers, I'll say one is a cap toe Oxford, two is a wingtip brogued derby, and three is an brogued Oxford.
Anyone else noticed how Harry said "An Oxford is any formal shoe with open lacing) ???
Completely wrong yet the shoes in frame were indeed Oxfords
Watching this particular scene from the movie, I also got the impression that the writers didn‘t know classic menswear too well as an oxford is referred to as „any formal shoe with open lacing“.
They should‘ve studied your videos!
I believe a black oxford with semi broguing on the cap toe is versatile. It can be worn with business attire and casual clothes, even jeans. For example the Allen Edmonds Fifth Avenue.
This video has made shoe shopping infuriating! LMAO The number of companies that make dress shoes and do not know the distinction is ridiculous. Searching for oxfords on some of their sites will pull up a wide variety of open-laced shoes that are labeled as oxfords... smh
I’ve a pair of my dads brogues over 60 years old. Built like dreadnoughts
If you don’t understand what’s being said in the movie, you should go to London and work in the professional services sector for a while. You will get to know exactly what is meant: one does not wear brogues in town - ever. And contrary to what many Americans (I have noticed) tend to do: one does not EVER wear brown shoes to a dark suit.
Antonio, the answers were actually a cap-toe Oxford, a Wingtip Blucher and a plain toe with medallion Oxford. An important thing to note is that you don't call a shoe just by its decorations and you did that a lot (i.e. I have a pair of brogues, medallions, elastics and tassels), you call it by the style (such as Oxford, Chelsea, Derby) and then by its decorations if any.
In the movie, Harry had a problem with Eggsy because Eggsy used "brogues" as if it was an actual style of shoes, and Harry was right to correct him. Oxfords, not brogues.
If you walk into a shoe store and ask for a pair of brogues, the clerk is going to ask you to be more specific, because any type of shoe can have broguing.
In my opinion, this video might cause people to start calling their shoes and boots "brogues" and perhaps you should update the video to be more clear.
To add to that, in practice I don't see any shoemakers referring to shoes as "brogues." Instead, they refer to a shoe as "having brogueing" or similar.
Difficult to take you seriously when your suit doesn't fit
Maybe he meant in a figurative speech, "you are now entering a secret world, no longer being part of an open network" by saying "Oxford's NOT Brogues" just saying...........🤔😋😁
Bro my channel would have been sky rockin if I had the ability of yours to explain..great job man.
Thanks man. Big fan of Kingsman?
👍👍Thanks Antonio! Sounds like the Midwest cold/snow got to ya (you sound ‘stuffed up’) I sure don’t miss that WI weather! 🤒 Get Well Soon!
It really annoys me when Antonio says Derby pronounced Derbee rather than Darbee, I do know it is the American pronunciation, but it still gets me😂. Keep up the videos Antonio!
Put simply, never turn up to business or interview in anything other than plain black lace up shoes that are highly polished.
twoonthewall never wear brown to town
Turns out, Oxford is the surname of the Kingsmen founder.
Superb presentation, very interested in this shoe manufacturer and I believe the meaning of “Oxford not brogues”
Is simply. This is business not pleasure.
i once wore Oxfords with jeans but under a circumstance where it looked good: i wanted to go for a more texan style (and also a bit like Elvis) so i took a blue shirt, a white t-shirt to wear underneath, some gray jeans and blue Oxfords. All of that blended well and i got compliments for it
Medium to dark brown oxfords go well with jeans. Brown oxfords would be against English style rules in the past but now English shoe makers are making them. Under English style rules, you wouldn't wear jeans either. Times have changed, and any effort to dress in anything other than sneakers will get you noticed.
Also closed lacing shoes were less forgiving, size wise. Fine if you're having them hand made for you, bad if they're being mass produced. hence bluchers are open laced, so you can get a pair about the right size and get them to fit by lacing them looser/tighter
Traditionally in the UK. Brown leather brogues were a weekend country shoe. Not something you wore with a town style dress suit rather with tweed for country sports etc that would go with brogues. It's a bit like 'a man should never be seen in town wearing brown'. So traditionally an unbrogued plain black Oxford would be the correct shoe for a saville row style kingsman pinstripe suit.
All those "casual" shoes look amazing with a suit and tie, much better than jeans and shirt.
Maybe their interpretation is a clean impeccable understated elegance with NO ornamentation, remember they are KINGSMAN!!!!!
Great video @Real Men Real Style, shoe types in a nutshell. However imo what he said was meant to be understood as:" oxfords WITHOUT brogue." Why did't he say it like that? It doesn't soud that epic. And what would he mean by saing:" oxfords without brouge?" Well as you said, brouge is more of a casual shoe type. I guess it was meant this way:" Stick to the basics" or something like that.
You must do a great job in advertising, I really watched that sponsor. You made it sound I've got to have those shoes.
Great video. But the gradient vignette gray background makes it look old. Can't go wrong with a flatter white, med gray, dark gray, or black.
First type of Brogues Antonio is showing on 3:05 really are 1/4 or Quarter Brogues, or more correct Punched Cap Brogues because Quarter Brogues can have side broguing not only along the seam of cap. But they don’t have Medallion and Wingtip. And Semi Brogues really means the same like Half Brogues. So in this video there are mistakes too, not only in Kingsman.
He actually explains the differences in the movie. And if you actually pay attention you can catch what makes an Oxford and what makes a brogue. The line oxords not brogues was not meaning pick oxfords over brogues but rather that an Oxford style is not a brogue. Yes an Oxford can have brogue work on it but it doesn't replace the style. Watch the scene again there's a slight inflection to his voice when he says it in the scene describing the difference which helps you understand what he means. But you need to understand British accents to catch it. Every other scene doesn't have that inflection because it's more important that the line is a spy greeting than a description.
What I’d really like to know is where to pick up a great pair of dress shoes in Rome or possibly Athens-$300-$500 price range.
The first shoe is an Oxford, or cap toe, or cap toe Oxford; no brogueing. The second shoe is a Balmoral with brogueing; because the brogue is continuous, front to back, without a break. The third shoe is an Oxford with brogueing and beautiful. Brogueing is a decoration/ perforation added to the seam. Brogue is not a type of shoe, it's a feature. Just like leather interior is a feature.
Always great tips Antonio
Everyone who has made a video making this point has left out the fact that the brogue in the shot in that scene is also an oxford. & I don't know if you noticed your own mistake in calling a quarter brogue a semi brogue. But semi means half. So a semi brogue & a half brogue are the same thing. So the 3 types of brogues are quarter, semi, & wingtip. (I have seen wingtips without brogueing on them before. I don't know what to call those)
3:04 - I don't mean to be a "brogue snob", but that is a quarter brogue.
You are fully right because first type of Brogues Antonio is showing are Quarter Brogues, or more correct Punched Cap Brogues because Quarter Brogues can have side broguing not only along the seam of cap. And Semi Brogues really mean the same like Half Brogues. So in this video there are mistakes too, not only in Kingsman.
Balmoral is closed lacing, Blucher is open lacing. Brogues have perforation of varying degrees.
Don’t buy blake stitching, get Goodyear welts
I just realized that I’ve been wearing cap toe derbies, not cap toe oxfords
It's confusing because a lot of shoe brands, especially in America, incorrectly refer to Derbies and Bluchers as Oxfords.
First of all, great video. A video about a correction that also itself requires a correction; derbies and bluchers are slightly different types of shoes. Yes, some people call bluchers, derbies and vice-versa in common parlance but they are different. I think also, with the movie error, many people use "brogues" as a substitute for derbies as you say, more casual shoes have broguing, even though this is an incorrect description.
I love Oxfords and Brouges! I kind of love my grandfather's favourites.
I do too.
The two are not mutually exclusive as this gentleman pointed out... The character in the film told him to wear "Oxfords not brogues" meaning that he should wear Oxfords without brogues...any English speaker would understand this.
Harry knows that "Oxfords not Brogues" is nonsense. But it's not a combination of words that will come up in casual conversation and if a regular-joe heard someone say it they wouldn't think twice about what they just heard, which makes it a perfect passphrase/codeword for the Kingsmen. It's like when I mention Panda Express in a conversation my partner knows I'm telling her it's time we leave
Out of all of the style rules I've learned from Antonio, this is the only one I don't follow. In fact, I go out of my way to break it 😜
You can break rules if you know what it is.
@@RealMenRealStyle but when you do, make sure you're not breaking more than 1 or 2 rules on purpose at the same time!
@Mr. Sharp...I agree. Brogues have so much more styling and craftsmanship in the making of the shoe, it's hard to fathom that some 200 year old idea is so steadfast.
Really there are no "rules," per se. Only what is deemed appropriate for certain outfits and certain situations. If you understand those things, then you can wear whatever you want. Sometimes you want to intentionally wear something on the borderline or something that is outright "inappropriate." Sometimes you want to be creative, sometimes flashy, sometimes subtle, sometimes even gaudy or tacky. But you never want to do that unintentionally out of ignorance.
Yes, give this man a beer, please. He's very right.
Maybe he (Harry) wasn't talking about the lacing system. But more of an advice of what to wear: Your oxfords; as the most formal and elegant kind of shoe, but without the ornamentation, so Eggsy would look foward to a more clean and elegant style, proper of a Kingsman.
A great discussion. I have purchased a number of Church's Shoes before Prada in various styles of Oxfords with and without broughing. Tan looks great in the summertime. Also white bucks.❤
Brouge comes from the Irish word for shoe (bróg) so in a way all three shoes were brouges.
BTW, I like Crocs. Great for camping, running out to the mailbox, taking out the trash.
Yep, you should always wear shoes appropriate for the occasion or activity.
@@whitemakesright2177 In the case of Crocs its an occasion or activity where there's no chance another soul will ever see you.
He probably should have said something like smooth leather Oxfords not brogues. Shoes intended to dress more formally. Kingsman don’t dress informally.
Or if he wanted to discern between formal and less formal, the movie phrase maybe should have been “Oxfords not Derby’s.” And then display these two styles side-by-side when he selected the Oxford shoes for Eggsy to try. Then he could have said “and never broguing.”
That way less informed people won’t be confused to know broguing are also on Oxfords. And of course on Derby’s. The movie caused unnecessary confusion.
why would he say "an oxford is any formal shoe with an open lacing system". I thought it was the opposite.
Who would have thought . . . the "fancier" the shoe, the more casual it is?
So glad I could get all the answers right. 😌
You killed with the crocs 🤣 my grandma loves them ! 😁
They probably ment by that that no derbies since those can often have brogues
Man, come here off of a movie quote to be told my suit/office shoes are casual because of the lacing.
Nobodies commented to me, and I like my Derby with chunky rubber sole
99% of people these days don't know the difference. To most people they're just all "dress shoes," including wingtips and even loafers.
Oxfords have a knife in the toe cap, whereas Brogues don't. Oxfords are for missions, whereas as Brogues are for everyday use.
Very informative video. Now I can differentiate between oxford and Brogues and Now I can decide that which one to wear with formal dresses ❤
Oxfords not brogues, wasn't style advice, it was a secret pass phrase. As such I suppose it makes some sense that it wasn't intended to be a phrase anyone would actually say.
Rev_Logos
Semanticly any phrase can mean anything, people have a hard time to get that.
Thank you for the education. I really appreciate it.
Great video, thank you. Honestly, the go to video to understand the main difference between Oxfords/Brogue/Derbie shoes.
What confuses me is that a whole-cut can pass as extremely formal (possibly even white tie level) or casual with a pair of jeans.
Never seen another shoe that has that spectrum.
I think it's because it's such a blank canvas. It doesn't have any decoration at all, so there is nothing to make it especially formal or especially casual. Kind of like a white shirt - a white shirt goes with anything because of the absence of color.
Only have a pair of boots with brogue wingtips. Love them. Yet looking for a good pair of brogues for my kilt.
He is saying “fancy shoes without ornamentation”. He is saying brogueing is ugly. Therefore go with the high class shoe without ugliness.
Love the video. Very informative.straight foward
The term is broguing. You are correct on all.
Always viewed Brogues as more formal over the Oxfords. They are more decorative, ergo fancier.
Had me in tears with the crocks thing😂
I have bought 6 pairs of shoes from Beckett Simonon as well as belts, a brief case and a back pack. Very High quality leather goods that are worth the wait.
Ah… you see this is a lack of understanding on your behalf. What he meant was for formal business attire, black oxfords are the order of the day. Oxfords with brogueing are semi formal shoes, whilst brogues are casual shoes (as you suggest).
All Oxfords only! This video is an essential piece in fashion knowledge.
Good information Antonio. I “thought” I understood the difference in shoe types before. Now I DO.
Super!
Number 2 was a derby with broguing.
The first is an plain oxford, ghe second an derby brougue, the third was an oxford with brogue.
Not to mention that the British have different terminology. Our "Oxford" is what they refer to as a Balmoral.
I’ve been watching your for a while. This is one of your best videos! Keep it up.
This video has been so revealing for me! Thank you so much!
I'm also big fan of Kingsman
Yep, that makes sense now...cheers.
I only use brogues, they let the foot breath, which is great here in warm climates
Real fans who have seen your shoe formality video already knew this😂
Thank you for the informative video but to understand why Harry says that watch the prequel to the movie
It gives the explanation to why he says that
The videos from the last years have always been 50% Information and 50% comercials